What should be the drainage for the drain pit. Drain hole in a private house with your own hands: how to dig and equip yourself

With the advent of summer, many people leave the stuffy city and spend time in the country. But not always in the summer cottage there are elementary amenities, including this applies to modern sewerage. With urban housing (apartment), everything is clear: all waste and sewage "go" into the centralized sewerage system, but for a summer cottage / private house that is not connected to a centralized sewerage system, this is a kind of obstacle to a good rest. But this problem is completely solvable, and a do-it-yourself drain pit will bring life in the country closer to the civilized world.

drain hole in a private house - this is the simplest, moderately convenient and functional example of an autonomous sewage system. This system provides for the collection of used water in the storage pit. And without it, there is no way, because a person not only drinks water, but also actively uses it - he washes, takes a shower, bath, does laundry, cooks food. Water and amenities such as the indispensable washing machine are hard to come by today. Therefore, any summer resident or just the owner of private housing should think about where to put this used liquid.

Drainage pit - choice of location

Before making a drain pit, you need to decide on the choice of its location. The question is quite difficult, because it has a number of aspects. The first aspect: a drain pit - the distance to the building should be at least five to eight meters, these parameters must be adhered to and the drain pit should not be located near the house. Another issue is the length of sewer pipes, they should not be excessively long. Well, the third side of the issue concerns the cleaning of the drain pit, that is, there must be an entrance to the sewer truck to it. And you also need to pay attention to wells and wells: if they are present on the site, then there can be no talk of a drain pit with natural filtration. The minimum distance allowed between these two objects is 30 m.

As for determining the level ground water, then this argument does not play a big role in choosing a place for a drain pit, since groundwater only affects the type of such a structure: draining or sealed.

The volume of this effluent tank

Before digging a drain hole, it is necessary to correctly determine its volume. This parameter depends on the nature of the use of housing: people live there permanently or seasonally, on the number of family members, on the frequency of using a bathhouse, shower, etc.

Appearance of a typical drain pit

This may also apply to clay soil that is not prone to rapid filtration, therefore, if the storage pit still copes with its functions for the first year, then in the future the soil will become saturated with fats and will practically cease to absorb waste. Therefore, if possible, it is better to make a drain hole with a margin, for example, for a family of three people - 6 cubes.

Pipe laying rules

If the volume is already determined, then you can start laying pipes. At this stage, very important point: observance of a constant slope of 3-5 degrees, this is approximately 4-7 cm per meter of pipe being laid. And you also need to take into account the fact that the longer the pipe, the greater the slope must be observed.

The choice of material for the construction of a drain pit

The device of the drain pit can be different:

- brick;

- plastic;

— concrete rings

The initial stage of construction - the foundation pit

All these materials are used to equip the drain structure. The walls of the pit can be lined with bricks, or you can use a container as a base: a barrel without a bottom, a body from the old washing machine, car tires that stack one on top of the other.

The shape of the waste collection tank

Usually, the drain pit in the country is equipped in the form of a cube. But it's not the best the best way. It is more rational to use a cylindrical shape, since it is known that the cylinder is a more durable figure. The loads on its walls are evenly distributed, and the probability of destruction of a cylindrical drain pit is practically reduced to zero. And quite the opposite is the case with a cubic-shaped drain pit, its walls cannot withstand the load and the probability of its destruction is significant.

Drainage pit made of ceramic bricks

So, first, a hole is dug according to predetermined sizes. High-quality soil - black soil, can be distributed on the site, and it is better to remove loam, sand, clay and stones from the yard.

How to make a drain hole out of brick? ceramic brick- most best option. He possesses positive characteristics: serves for a long time and does not collapse from the harmful effects of moisture. It must be laid on a light foundation. The thickness of the walls can be half a brick to save Money, when laying bricks, you need to remember about the gaps between the ends for filtering (5 cm).

Important: the walls of the pit can be laid out not only with bricks, but also with natural stone.

After completing the masonry in the lower part of the pit, you can begin the process of drainage backfilling. To do this, the space between the soil of the pit and the walls of the drain pit is filled with crushed stone, pebbles or construction waste(concrete, brick battle).

Important: the layer of drainage backfill should be approximately 20 cm.

Masonry is not carried out to the very ground level, but 80 cm below. At this mark, it is equipped reinforced concrete slab for covering. It can be factory or homemade. Do-it-yourself concrete slab can be poured over the formwork (20 cm thick).

Also in this concrete structure, it is necessary to take care of the hatch for pumping out wastewater and arrange a reliable cover in order to fully exclude the possibility of children falling into the drain hole. Optionally, you can make the ventilation of the drain pit.

Important: if the drain pit is located at the entrance of the transport, then the stove concrete floor should be thicker (at least 25 cm), plus well-reinforced.

The remaining space is covered with earth. Everything, the drain pit is ready, you can safely walk and ride on it, and you can also plant a flower bed for the beauty of the yard, then such a device will not spoil the design of the site.

Construction of concrete rings

For people who want to make a drain tank on the site, the question often arises: how to make a drain hole from concrete rings? A drain pit made of reinforced concrete rings is easy to build, you don’t need special qualifications for this work, but you just have to work hard physically.

Stages of work:

At the site where the planned placement of the drain pit, the first ring is installed. Under it, the soil is selected and the ring is lowered.
The second ring (with the same size) is installed on the first ring. The edges of such rings have protrusions, it is thanks to them that the sewer rings are assembled into a single structure.
The soil is selected until the second ring is also lowered.
The drain pit may consist of 2-3 rings or more, depending on the planned size.

Important: the upper last ring must necessarily rise above ground level by 20-30 cm.

The hole for the outlet pipe is easiest to make with a puncher using a drill bit. And if this is not the case, then you need to draw a circle on the location of the drain pipe on the ring, drill it with an ordinary drill, and then knock it out.
From above, the drain pit is covered with a solid cover: reinforced concrete, cast iron.

A video clip will tell you how to remove sludge when digging a drain hole with your own hands.

Little tricks of arrangement

It is clear that sooner or later you will have to call a sewage truck to collect wastewater. But how to make a drain hole, so to speak, "long-playing"? There are several nuances that will help prolong the cleaning of the pit. First of all, you can divide the drain. That is, in addition to the main drain pit, equip another pit, but only a smaller one. Water without solid waste will drain into it (from the washing machine, from the bathroom, shower). The water in the smaller drain pit will quickly drain into the ground, as there will be no accumulation of fat deposits on its walls.

And secondly, you can use the achievements modern science. For this you need to purchase special means, consisting of a biological basis. This is a unique liquid with bacteria. Such bacteria recycle waste, drainage is cleaned, and the infiltration of water runoff into the soil improves.

The technology for arranging drain pits (with bricks and concrete rings) is simple and quite doable on your own, without involving a team of professional workers. And the benefits of such a device are enormous: comfort, convenience and reliability.

When you have built a house or a summer house for yourself, you have begun to equip it, then you will definitely need to drain drains from the roof. This problem will make itself felt immediately after the first rain, as all the water from the roof will pour onto the steps, the foundation and even the walls, which is not good at all. Your task is to build a system for the outflow of water from the roof, that is, a drain. There are two options: buy already finished structure or design it yourself. The first method is much cheaper and will save money, however, you will have to make some efforts. It is necessary to choose what material the future drain will be made of, what shape it will be, and where all the water should drain. You can figure out all these nuances by reading our article. Moreover, we will consider why a drain is needed, in particular, what functions it performs, what are the requirements for these elements, what it consists of and, directly, how to make a drain from the roof with your own hands. Let's find out everything in detail.

And yet why

Drainage is an important part of the design of the whole house. Its presence is very important for several reasons. You can probably see a house in which there is no drainage system on the roof only at the construction stage, since this system is usually done first. And all because it performs important functions:

protective function. Thanks to the drain, precipitation does not fall on the walls, foundation, steps and blind area. This is the main purpose of the drain. When it is absent, the basement of the house will simply collapse within 5-10 years. Water will fall on the foundation, leaving the ground, as a result of which the foundation will erode. Moreover, traces of water, smudges and stains can form on the walls, which will spoil the aesthetic appearance of the entire building. Yes, and the steps of the porch will collapse over time.
Collecting rainwater from the roof. This is especially important for owners of a large garden or garden, because rainwater is very good for watering plants. If the drain pipe is taken to a special container, a barrel or a large tank, then after good rain you will have additional source water. This is good not only for the soil, but also for your wallet. The presence of such technical water will not hurt anyone.
Decor element for your home. If you make a beautiful ebb with your own hands, you can complement the overall picture of the house, giving it a complete look.

All this makes the drain system an important component of the entire building. Without it, of course, you can do in some cases, but this is fraught with undesirable consequences.

It is worth noting that to make a drain on quick hand it is also impossible for it to function correctly and for a long time, some requirements must be observed:

The product must have high strength, resistance to various mechanical deformations and high loads. It must withstand strong gusts of wind, hail, the weight of snow in winter, etc.;
Durability. The material must be resistant to various external factors, corrosion from water, withstand temperature extremes and precipitation.
Last but not least, good appearance, because no one wants one detail to spoil the entire facade.

It is important to comply with all these requirements, then your efforts will not be in vain. But what material can a drain be made of, and which one will be better? Let's find out.

Materials for manufacturing

The water drainage system is made from various materials, which differ in their characteristics and price. There are two main materials for the manufacture of a drain:

Metal.
Polymers.

These are the most common materials from which you yourself can make water drainage. If we talk about metal, then it is more expensive than plastic due to its strength. In the manufacture of the drain, it is additionally coated with an anti-corrosion agent and decorative coating, because, as you know, the disadvantage of metal is the tendency to corrosion. In addition, during operation, a metal drain from time to time must be additionally treated with the same means so that it does not rust from damage, dents and scratches that may occur during operation.

If you want to make a metal structure, it is better to choose these:

galvanized steel;
copper;
aluminum.

To make a drain from galvanized steel, you need to purchase it in sheets, the thickness of which reaches 1 mm. For additional protection of the material against corrosion, a material coated with polymers is chosen: polyester, plastisol or pural.

The aluminum construction is quite light, which is its advantage. The thickness of the sheet can be from 0.8 mm to 1 mm. A special varnish is used to protect the material. It not only protects aluminum, but also improves its appearance. Such structures serve for a long time, and if aluminum does not come into contact with other metals, rust will not form on it.

The advantage of copper products is that they do not need to be further processed. Such an outflow is considered more durable, beautiful and of high quality, it is ideal for making a water drainage system if your roof is not made of another metal. Copper, like aluminum, should not come into contact with other metals. The only negative is the high price of the material.

Note! During operation, copper is covered with a greenish coating - patina.

Another thing is plastic elements. They don't need additional processing are more durable and do not corrode. Increased strength, durability, quietness and UV resistance - all these features have made plastisol and polyester the main materials that are ideal for the manufacture of ebb. Gutters made of plastic have another advantage - polymers can be different colors, so you can choose one that matches the color scheme for your home.

Note! It is worth noting that the price of plastic is much lower than that of metal, so polymer plums will cost you less.

If we talk about the disadvantages of the material, then there is one significant one: with low temperatures the plastic becomes brittle. And, despite the various additives in the production, in very coldy plastic can crack, which will break the tightness of the entire system. True, if you live in a region with temperate climate, this shortcoming will not bother you.

Considering all of the above, you can decide which material to choose for the manufacture of water drainage from the roof of the house. Before proceeding with the manufacture of the ebb, let's find out what elements it consists of and how it works.

Components of the water drainage system

First you need to determine what exactly to produce, because the drainage system consists of various elements:

Gutter. One of the main elements of the whole structure. It serves to collect water from the roof slopes. Can be round or square, mounted horizontally from the bottom of the roof overhang. The size of the gutter depends on the area of the slope that it will serve.
Pipe. The vertical part of the structure, which allows you to divert water to the place you need, whether it be drainage system or a container for collecting rainwater. Pipes are attached to the wall of the building.
Stormwater or funnel. An element that connects the gutter to the pipe.
Turns and angles. Structural elements, which allow you to bypass the house, various protruding elements, etc. Thanks to them, it is also possible to mount the pipe on different distance from the wall of the house.
Plugs. In those places where a funnel and a pipe are not provided, a plug is installed.
Gutter connection. When the wall has great length, gutters are interconnected by special connecting elements.
Fasteners for pipes and gutters, allowing you to tightly fix these elements to the wall.
Leaf trap. Sometimes a trap is mounted in the system that looks like a lattice. Thanks to her, the leaves do not penetrate the system and do not clog it. You just have to periodically remove the leaves from the trap.

As they say, it is better to see once than hear a hundred times, so below is a diagram in which you can clearly see all the components of the system.

How to find out how much material is needed for a job

Before we get started, there is one more issue that needs to be addressed. You should decide how much material to buy for the construction of the drain, so that you do not have to spend money on shipping again. Yes, and excess material can long time lie dead weight until you decide to use it in the construction of some outbuilding.

So, how to correctly calculate the amount of material needed to create a drain. In fact, everything is not as difficult as it seems. To work, you need to arm yourself with a tape measure larger than 5 m, a pencil or pen, as well as a notepad for notes. It all starts with the fact that with the help of a tape measure, the total footage of all the gutters around the perimeter is calculated. The resulting number will tell you how many meters of material are needed for the gutters. Write down all the data so as not to forget anything. And, of course, do not take the material to the nearest centimeter, a small margin is required.

Note! The cross section of the gutters can be of two types: round and square. Which type to choose depends on your own preferences. Only here it is worth noting that it is easier to care for round products, as they are easy to clean. The square shape does not allow you to thoroughly clean the dirt in the corners.

Now you need to figure out how many funnels will go to the system. Make it even easier. Usually one funnel is installed on the gutter every 10 m. If the house is small, then funnels are often placed simply on its corners. If the length of one of the walls of your home exceeds 10 m, professionals recommend making several drain points. The number of funnels should also be recorded.

You do not even need to calculate how many pipes are required, since this number will be equal to the number of funnels. All that needs to be done is to measure the distance from the roof to the ground or the place where you want to drain water to find out the required length of the pipe itself.

Turns and knees are calculated strictly individually, respectively. design features facade of the house. It all depends on the number of corners, obstacles and turns to go around. Consider the desired distance of the pipes from the walls.

Upon completion of all calculations, you need to find out required amount fasteners: brackets and clamps. The brackets will fix the outlet gutters in increments of 60–80 cm. overall length gutters divided by the distance between the brackets. This way you will know exactly how many pieces you need. As for the clamps with which the pipes will be attached to the walls, it is definitely difficult to say something. Basically, 2-3 clamps are enough for one pipe, it depends on the height of the wall. Look at the number of pipes in your drainage system and determine the number of clamps.

That's all, the calculation is over. This was the easiest stage in the construction of the drain, it will be much more difficult to mount it. Now all you have to do is take a look at your records, and go to the store with them to buy all desired material. When everything is ready, you can get to work.

How to make a gutter from the roof yourself

Consider how to make your own drain from plastic pipes, as this is the easiest and most effective option. As practice has shown, the best materials for this business are plastic sewer and ventilation pipes.

To work, you will need the following tools:

Bulgarian.
Screwdriver or screwdriver.
Roulette.
Cord or thread.
Self-tapping screws.
Sandpaper.
Level and plumb.
Marker.
Silicone sealant.
Scaffolding or stairs.

And as materials you need to purchase:

Plastic pipes with a diameter of 80, 90 or 110 mm, from which the gutters will be made. They are cut in half.
Plastic pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, which will act as vertical drain pipes.
Plastic fittings, which will be funnels, connecting the gutter and the vertical pipe.
Corners and bends, thanks to which the gutters can go around the corners of the building, as well as change the direction of vertical drain pipes to the right place.
Plastic plugs for pipes, which will also have to be cut in half.
Plastic brackets and metal clamps.

First of all, you need to decide on the cross section of the pipes, which depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof itself. There is a special calculation formula by which you can find out the required diameter. If the area of the roof slope is 50 m 2 or less, then it is better to use pipes with a diameter of 80 mm. When the area of the roof slope is 125 m 2 or less, then pipes of 90 mm are selected. And when the area of the roof slope is more than 125 m 2, a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is required.

Note! You will also need funnels, sockets and adapters, but their diameter is determined based on the diameter of the pipe that departs from the gutter.

Now let's make gutters - this is the hardest work that requires accuracy and correct calculation. Pipes will be used as gutters, which must be dissolved in half in length. It will be easy to cut them, but to do it evenly is difficult. From one pipe you will get two identical gutters. Here's what you need to do:

Take a pipe of the desired diameter and place it on the boards. For ease of use, fix the pipe with a self-tapping screw to the board.
At the very top, on the front side of the pipe, stepping back a few centimeters, screw a self-tapping screw into it exactly in the middle. Do the same on the other side. It is not necessary to tighten the screws to the end.
Stretch a thread between them. Make sure everything is even.
Now mark the cut line on the pipe with a marker.
Remove the thread and, focusing on the markup, start sawing the pipe with a grinder. For safety reasons, wear protective goggles. Make sure to cut the pipe evenly, as this will depend on general form gutters.
It remains to do exactly the same on the opposite side of the pipe. Only now the pipe is fixed to the board in two places, since by sawing the pipe, you have made two separate parts of it.
Depending on the number of gutters required, cut all the pipes intended for this purpose.
Using sandpaper, clean the cuts on the pipes.

This is how you can independently make gutters, which will become the basis for the drainage system. Now you just need to connect the elements of the gutters together, taking into account the required length on each wall. Ready-made gutters will be connected to one another using self-tapping screws. Since these are sewer pipes, one end of which is wider, they can be connected very simply;

One gutter is inserted into the other with an overlap of 5–10 cm.
Using a screwdriver or self-tapping screw, fix them to each other in three places: on the sides and below.
The finished mount can be lubricated silicone sealant to prevent water leakage.
To make corner gutters, you need to take a knee, and using the method you already know, cut it in half.
At this stage, in places where they will be located vertical pipes, must already be inserted plastic fitting and fix it with screws. Again, you need to cover the junction with sealant.

Note! When connecting the elements to each other, do not screw in the screws too tight so that the joints are slightly mobile. Thanks to this, the structure will walk under the influence of wind and various temperatures without collapsing.

We can say that your roof drainage system is ready, it remains only to put everything together and install it in the intended place.

All steps are shown in detail in the video:

Rules for installing a drainage system

Before installing your homemade design, it is important to familiarize yourself with some rules for installing water drainage elements. They concern not only plastic products, but also any others. Compliance with these rules is very important, because thanks to them the structure will fold for a long time and perform its functions correctly.

Installation of gutters around the perimeter of the house should be carried out on the frontal bar of the eaves, the edge of the truss system, directly on the roof. It is better to choose the first two methods. But, it is worth noting that it will be easy to implement them when the drainage system is installed at the stage of building a house, before it is laid roofing material. If you have already completely built your house or cottage, you can attach gutters to the edge of the roof.
When used as gutters metal pipes, the brackets must be spaced at a distance of 80 cm to 1.5 m. If the gutters are made of plastic, the minimum distance is from 60–80 cm.
Gutters must be fixed so that they can easily catch the flow of running water. To do this, you need to step back from the edge of the roof by a third of the pipe section, so that two-thirds of the gutters protrude, and water gets clearly into them.
To prevent water from accumulating in the gutters, they must be installed with a slope towards the funnel. For every 1 m of length, the slope should be 3–5 mm. This will be enough for the water to flow down into the funnel unhindered.
The distance of the upper edge of the gutter from the edge of the roof must not be less than 30 mm. If this requirement is not met, the entire structure may be torn off by a mass of snow or ice that comes off the roof.
It is important to ensure that the joints are well sealed so that water does not seep through them. To do this, you can use either a sealant or a pipe seal - a rubber band. It must be cut into two parts and put at the junction, where it is screwed with screws. It will also serve as a thermal gap, which is required for the structure to be movable.

These are all the rules that you need to follow when installing a water drainage system. Now it remains only to put everything into practice!

Installation of a system of sewer pipes

First you need to choose starting point, that is, the place from where you will start work. Since the work will be carried out at height, take a ladder and check if it is reliable. You should be especially careful, because gravity can play a cruel joke. The installation process itself is not entirely complicated, following the instructions, it can be performed by any amateur builder. So, let's look at everything in stages:

That's all, now all the same needs to be done around the entire perimeter.

The roof drainage system is ready. Most importantly, you spent a minimum of money on its purchase, since you made it yourself.

You can make a homemade lattice from construction mesh to protect the system from leaves. It will take a number of meters of mesh, which must be cut into strips of such a width that, by folding it into a cylinder, you can get a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the gutter pipe itself. Make such cylinders and place them in the gutters, fixing them securely there. This will protect the structure from all kinds of debris.

Advantages of a drain from sewer pipes

Why did we consider a design that is made of plastic pipes? There are several reasons for this. One of them is that it is easiest to do it yourself. As you yourself noticed, there are no special difficulties during assembly, and the process itself is quite simple. The plastic system has several advantages:

Low price. If your funds are limited, this is perfect option For you. Since the material and everything additional elements they cost a little, and no one will have to pay for the work, you can afford it.
Large range of goods. You can buy pipes in construction stores different diameter and colors, fittings, elbows and fasteners.
Light weight. Thanks to this, you can easily transport pipes, and, more importantly, install them in their places. You can do all the work yourself, without the help of friends or relatives (this will allow you to do without the magician).
Plastic is easy to work with. Pipes are easy to cut with a grinder or a hand saw. Everything cuts like butter. Therefore, special efforts to cut the pipe in half will not have to be applied.
Sewer pipes do not corrode, are resistant to temperature fluctuations and ultraviolet rays.

If you have any additional questions, ask them below in the comments to the article. If you have already made such a drain system, share your experience: how long has it served you, were there any problems during installation or during operation, what can you advise inexperienced craftsmen.

All conveniences of human habitation are connected with three components: electricity, water and sewerage. The owners of "summer residences" - dachas, small country houses - are trying to equip their seasonal home with maximum comfort. Providing it with electricity is the most simple task, almost every corner of Russia is electrified. Water supply is decided by the arrangement of wells or wells. Most complex issue- a local sewage device - also has a standard solution: a do-it-yourself drain pit is being built on the site.

A drain pit in a private house or in a country house is an elementary structure designed to collect and accumulate local sewage effluents. Here, through sewer pipes, household waste is transported from toilets, from kitchen sinks, washing machines and dishwashers.

Any treatment facilities in anticipation of this simple collection of sewage is not provided. As the pit fills, it is cleaned by pumping out the contents. Depending on the cleaning method, the accumulated sewage is removed by special machines - sewers or, after treatment with biological products, are used for watering plants and as fertilizer.

Types of drain pits

Drainage pits are classified in relation to ground level and materials of manufacture.

Relative to ground level

On this basis, collections of sewer waste are divided into two groups:

superficial;
underground.

Surface collectors of sewage

This option is only suitable for use in warm time of the year. It is used extremely rarely, since in this case the sewer network has to be laid on top. The required slope (from the "supplier" of wastewater - sinks, toilets, etc. - to the collector) can only be provided if all sources of wastewater are above the inlet of the tank. It is advisable to arrange surface drain tanks in areas with high level ground water.

Underground drain pits

Underground sewage collection facilities are the most common. Depending on the number of drains, the design of the drain pit may or may not have a sealed bottom. Sanitary standards Russia pits without sealing the bottom are allowed if the daily volume of effluents does not exceed 1 m 3.

In all other cases, a sealed underground reservoir is equipped.

According to the materials of manufacture

For the construction of the construction of the drain pit, you can use the following materials:

ceramic brick;
concrete (in the manufacture of a monolithic structure);
waste tractor tires;
plastic;
wood.

For do-it-yourself drain pits, concrete rings are the most inappropriate option. Construction equipment is required for their installation - manually heavy products cannot be handled.

The simplest and cheap way arranging a drain pit in a private house or in a summer cottage - decorating its walls with tires. But such a design is unreliable in terms of tightness: there is a high risk of the liquid component of sewage entering the soil.

Location - sanitary restrictions

Some homeowners believe that they can do anything on their site, and they are deeply mistaken. Sanitary services do not sleep - they require strict adherence to the norms and rules in force in the state, regardless of the type of property.

The location of the drain pit in a private house is also strictly regulated: the standards stipulate the minimum allowable distances from the wastewater storage tank to engineering structures, residential buildings and site boundaries:

to the conduit (central) - 10 meters;
to the underground gas pipeline - 5 meters;
before drinking well: 20 meters - on clay soils, 30 m - on loams, 50 m - on sandstones and sandy loams;
to a residential building (own and neighboring) - 10-12 meters;
to the fence (site boundary) - 1 meter.

The maximum depth of the drain pit is also regulated: it should not exceed 3 m, if the groundwater level allows it. These restrictions are contained in SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 and SNiP 30-02-97.

Important: Homeowners should be aware that non-compliance with sanitary requirements can threaten not only with a fine - in case of damage to the health of others, a criminal case may be initiated.

In addition, when making a drain hole in the country with your own hands, it must be located on the site in such a way that it is possible to organize an unhindered access to it for special equipment at the time of pumping out.

Tip: Practice shows that it is better to place a drain pit at a distance of at least 15 meters from the windows of residential premises.

Construction order

The device of a drain pit in a private house with your own hands, regardless of the choice of material, is carried out according to the general algorithm:

Explosive gas is formed in sewer tanks. To take him away ventilation is arranged. Its role is played by a pipe brought out through the lid of the pit. Its dimensions are regulated by building codes: diameter - 100 mm, height - at least 600 mm from ground level.

Choosing a drain cleaning method

Before you build a drain pit in a private house, you should decide very important question: How will you clean it. The amount of work on the improvement of the site depends on this:

if it’s easier for you to periodically invite specialists with a sewage truck, take care of organizing an access road;
if you are ready to clean it yourself, purchase a plastic container with an airtight lid and find out in advance who will take your waste. Do not forget about the means of protecting the skin of the hands and respiratory tract. It is better if it is a gas mask, but, at worst, a respirator will do. Of course, you can not do without rubber boots.

When arranging a drain hole, you need to take care not only how to dig it, but also how to clean it.

Modern technologies make it possible to significantly simplify the process of cleaning the drain pit, if it fills up quickly, or even make it practically waste-free. It's about about microscopic helpers - capable of turning effluent into sufficiently clean water and a solid fraction suitable for use as fertilizer.

Bacteria not only decompose the contents of the drain pit, but also diligently fight against an unpleasant odor.

Just keep in mind, when deciding how to clean the drain pit in a private house, that you should choose biological products in accordance with the composition of the wastewater. Most bacteria do not withstand contact with household chemicals: detergents and washing powders are detrimental to them. However, microorganisms that are resistant to aggressive environments are now being grown.

After the bacteria have worked hard, you just have to pump out the liquid component with the pump (it is completely harmless to humans, animals and plants) and remove the solid sediment from the pit.

Citizens, using plumbing, as a rule, do not think about where the waste water then flows. But the owners country houses The problem of waste disposal often has to be solved independently. Consider how to properly make a drain hole. After all, it is this popular option local sewerage is the simplest, cheapest and most affordable for self-construction.

When landscaping the house and the site, the first thing they do is to build water supply and sewerage systems. Since it is quite difficult to imagine a comfortable life if you need to carry water from a well.

There are a lot of options for organizing wastewater disposal, but the simplest and therefore very popular is the construction of a drain pit. Consider how to make a drain pit with your own hands, without resorting to the help of professional builders.

Types of drain pits

For all its simplicity, the drain pit can have different design. Here are the most common options:

sealed pit.
filter hole.
Double pit.

sealed pit

This version of the local sewage system is the safest for the environment, since all drains from the house disappear into a sealed sump and remain there until they are pumped out by sewers.

Thus, there is no risk of contaminated water getting into the ground and soil water, that is, the presence of this type of sewage on the site does not affect ecological systems. The disadvantage of this waste disposal option is the need to regularly pump out the accumulated liquid.

Filter drain pit

Build filter-type drain pits sanitary rules allowed only if the volume of effluents per day is less than a cubic meter. If there is little wastewater, they have time to be recycled through natural decomposition. Pits of this type can be built for a bath, as well as for a house in which there is a separation of drains.

In the latter case, two sewer branches and two drain pits are constructed. In the first (filtering type), drains from the shower room, from the washbasin, washing machine are transported, that is, relatively clean. In the second (sealed type), drains from toilets and the kitchen should be transported.

Two-chamber drain pit

One more practical solution tasks of how to build a drain pit - the construction of a two-chamber installation. Consider how this works treatment plant:

The pit consists of two chambers connected at the top by an overflow.
The first chamber is sealed, the second is filtering.
Drains (undivided) come from the house to the first sealed chamber, where they are mechanically separated, that is, they are simply settled. Solid inclusions sink to the bottom, and relatively pure water overflows into the second chamber.
From the second chamber, water is filtered into the ground.
Waste that accumulates in the first chamber should be pumped out periodically.

Advice! So that the drain pit can be cleaned less often, it is recommended to use special biological products. Bacteria recycle organic matter, reducing the amount of solid waste.

Construction planning

Before you make a drain pit, you should draw up a construction plan. It is necessary to decide on the type of structure, choose the place of construction and determine the required volume of tanks.

How to determine the volume of the drain pit?

The main indicator on which the volume of the drain pit will depend is the intensity of use of a residential facility. It is clear that a larger pit is needed for a house than for a summer residence.

Advice! Of course, it is better to determine the volume of effluents individually, but there are generally accepted norms. So, for a family of three people permanently residing in the house, a pit with a capacity of 6 cubic meters should be built.

When determining the volume of the tank, the following factors should be taken into account:

Availability of sewer services.
The volume that sewage equipment can pump out at a time.

Where is the drain hole located?

Soil water should lie deep enough on the site, since the minimum depth of the pit is two meters.
If there is a source nearby drinking water, then the pit should be placed at a distance of at least 30 meters from it.
The cesspool cannot be placed on a slope.
Provision should be made for the availability of free passages for servicing the pit.
You can not have a hole next to the house and the fence of the neighboring area. The minimum distance to housing is five meters.

In a word, it is quite difficult to choose a place for construction, especially if the site is already equipped. However, you cannot deviate from the above rules.

The choice of material for construction

For the construction of a sealed pit, the following materials are used:

Concrete solution. A formwork is being built into which the mortar is poured. The thickness of the walls and the bottom should be at least 7 cm, it is advisable to reinforce with a steel mesh.
Plastic containers. This is the least labor intensive option. A pit is being prepared, in which a finished plastic container is installed.

Advice! To exclude the possibility of deformation of containers under the action of soil pressure, as well as its floating up during spring floods, it is recommended to concret the walls and bottom of the pit. When concreting the bottom, special fixing loops are laid, to which they are tied plastic tank polymer belts.

concrete rings.
Ceramic brick.

When choosing the last two options, it is necessary to carry out side events for sealing seams. For this brickwork(or joints between the rings) is treated with mortar from the inside, the bottom of the pit is concreted.

Additionally, from the inside, the walls are covered with a bitumen solution, and from the outside they are covered with a thick (20 cm) layer of greasy clay. And what is the best way to overlay the drain pit if a filtering version of the treatment plant is being built? There are no less options. Great for:

Brick. The walls should be laid out so that between the rows there are five-centimeter gaps arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
Reinforced concrete rings. Manufacturers specially produce rings for the construction of drainage wells, they are perforated. If it was not possible to buy such rings, holes in solid products can be made independently using a perforator.
old car tires. From this improvised material, you can easily assemble a drainage well. Tires are stacked one above the other, having previously cut off the lower rim on each of them.
old plastic or metal barrels. For the construction of the pit, a barrel without a bottom is used, while a number of holes are made in its lower part for better water filtration.

Stages of construction of a drain pit

Let's consider how to properly make a drain pit, provided that the work is done independently:

Construction begins with the preparation of a pit and trenches for laying a supply pipeline.
The pit should have a greater depth than the planned depth of the drain pit, since a drainage cushion is arranged at its bottom.
The drainage cushion is made by pouring a layer of sand and gravel, each layer is qualitatively compacted.
If the pit is airtight, then the height of the layers can be 10-15 cm. On top of the drainage pillow, either put the finished iron concrete slab, or perform a concrete screed.
If a filter pit is being built, then the crushed stone layer should be at least 20 cm so that the drains are better cleaned and the bottom does not silt longer.
Next, the walls of the tank are strengthened, that is, brickwork is performed, concrete rings or plastic containers are installed, depending on the chosen construction material.
If a sealed tank is being built, then after the walls are strengthened, they are waterproofed.
At this stage, the connection of the supply pipeline to the receiving tank is also carried out. The connection of the pipe with the tank must be tight, but not rigid, so that it does not collapse under the action of soil movements. It is convenient to use rubber couplings.

At a distance of about 40 cm from the surface of the earth, an overlap for the pit is arranged. As a rule, a finished reinforced concrete slab with a hole for a hatch is used as a floor. If desired, such a slab can be cast independently, having previously constructed the formwork.
Alternatively, thick boards can be used to build the floor, but in this case, it will turn out to be less durable.
A hatch must be made in the ceiling to check the filling of the pit and pump out its contents.
It is advisable to install on the cover and the ventilation pipe. Indeed, in the process of decomposition of waste, various gases are formed, including methane, which is explosive. Therefore, it is better to provide for the possibility of ventilation.
From above, the overlap can be covered with soil. The soil must be filled with a mound to prevent rainwater from flowing into the pit.

So, if it is planned to arrange a local sewerage system, the construction of a drain pit is one of the simplest, but, at the same time, convenient and practical options. It does not hurt for beginners in the construction business to visually see how to make a drain pit - a video describing the stages of work can be found on construction sites.

Are you planning to build a wastewater drainage system in a suburban area by equipping a pit? Agree that a cottage or a house permanent residence with all the amenities will become much more comfortable. But you don’t know how a brick drain pit is built and what expendable materials would be required for this?

We will help you cope with the task - the article discusses the popular types of brick cesspools. As well as step by step process the construction of such a sewer, starting with the choice of a place for a pit and the calculation of its dimensions.

The material is provided with visual photographs. Also selected videos from useful tips for self-construction of a brick tank for wastewater. The advantages and features of its operation and periodic maintenance are considered.

A drain or cesspool is one of the oldest options for sewerage points for receiving and primary processing of wastewater on earth. It can be built even without any experience construction works.

Moreover, often such a device is created on the site at the very beginning of construction work in order to provide builders minimum set amenities.

You can do the construction of a drain pit on your own or invite a team of workers - there is a large amount of excavation

Technically, a drain pit is a simple septic tank or human waste storage tank. To this container, located underground, they bring sewer pipe leading from home.

Pipes of a separate toilet, bathhouse and other premises available on the site are also brought to it.

One common cesspool on the site is not the only option for organizing such a system. If desired, you can make a separate small container for each room.

Such a solution may be convenient, for example, if the bathhouse is located at a considerable distance from other buildings.

Waste is gradually accumulated and partially disposed of depending on the type of facility. As the pit fills with drains, it must be cleaned to prevent overflow of the structure.

Modern facilities make it possible to dispose of waste with sufficient a high degree efficiency. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the best methods on.

Varieties of cesspool structures

From a brick, you can build a cesspool of any type:

sealed;
with permeable walls;
without bottom;
divided into several sections.

Each building has certain characteristics. For example, sealed pit used in areas with high groundwater levels. This design prevents contamination environment drains.

Permeable drain pits, intended for the processing and disposal of gray effluents, are arranged with a meter-long sand and gravel filter near the bottom.

With insufficient bandwidth the underlying rocks are equipped with small holes in the walls through which the liquid part of the waste is disposed of.

If the capacity of the drain pit is divided brick partitions and insert overflow tubes into them, you get an almost homemade septic tank

In the so-called pits without a bottom lower part do not concrete. The walls of such structures are erected on a concrete base with a gap in which a sand and gravel filter is laid directly on the ground.

Liquid effluents will slowly seep through this natural filter and then enter the underlying soil layers, where they undergo their final treatment. The use of bricks allows you to create both an airtight drain pit and its permeable version. Most often, such structures are made with a rectangular base, this is the simplest scheme.

Divided into several sections. A large pit can be divided by partitions into two or three sections, which are connected by overflows.

Such a device, similar to a sewer septic tank, allows you to repeatedly separate the bulk of solid and liquid waste and increase the degree of their processing with the help of bacteria.

Image gallery

After the masonry work is completed, the walls need to be plastered.

The sewer pipe should enter the sewer device at a slight angle in order to ensure the optimal speed of movement of wastewater and waste

Stage #5 - waterproofing and topcoating

A layer of waterproofing material is placed on the plaster, for example, bituminous mastic. These measures will help extend the life of the sewer device.

When applied waterproofing materials instructions must be followed exactly. For example, a dry base is required for mastic.

Now you can install the top cover. To do this, it is best to purchase a ready-made concrete slab with a hole and a cover -.

As an alternative, consider concrete structure own production or wood flooring. The latter option does not differ in strength, every few years such an overlap will have to be replaced.

If a decision is made to make a concrete floor on your own, you should start doing it simultaneously with the base and using a similar technology. Filling is carried out in a wooden formwork.

The parameters of the upper floor must exceed the dimensions of the hole that it will cover by at least 30 cm.

The hole for servicing the drain pit should be large enough so that a person can climb into it to inspect the structure.

First, a layer of mortar of several centimeters is poured, then reinforcement is installed and the main layer is poured. This element must dry for four weeks. In the upper ceiling, it is necessary to make another hole - a ventilation hole.

The sewer device needs proper ventilation, because over time, sewage begins to release methane, which is a dangerous gas.

For the organization of natural ventilation use plastic pipe about 100 mm in diameter. The pipe is covered from above protective device, its lower part also does not hurt to equip with a grate.

After installing the ceiling, a layer of waterproofing should be applied over the structure, roofing material and even a thick plastic film will do.

A topsoil layer is usually laid on top to ennoble the site and protect the cesspool from freezing in winter.

Features of the device operation

The main care of the cesspool is to ensure that it is emptied and cleaned in a timely manner. Designed for cesspools can become a significant help in recycling and disposal of waste.

These drugs are usually supplied detailed instructions and very easy to use. They must either be simply poured / poured into the sewer, or pre-mixed with some water.

Pumping out waste from the drain pit is best done using special equipment. Drains should be removed when their amount takes up two-thirds of the capacity

Such microorganisms are able to process effluents, decomposing them into safe components. At the same time, the characteristic sewer devices smell.

But at the same time, it should be remembered that contact with certain types of household chemicals is detrimental to bacteria, so you will have to check the composition of the washing and cleaning products that are available in the house.

After the cesspool has been cleaned, it does not hurt to inspect it and check the integrity brick walls. If necessary, carry out minor repairs to the structure: replace damaged bricks with whole ones, restore damaged waterproofing, etc.

In addition to bricks, concrete rings, tires, a barrel, and so on can serve as a material for making a cesspool.

A brick cesspool is a reliable and convenient structure. It is not easy to make such a device, but all efforts will pay off, because if the technology is followed, such a device can last for many years.

Are you using it as a waste collector? brick pit made by hand? Or are you just planning to build a cesspool? Do you have any questions after reading this article? Ask them in the comments to our article - we will try to clarify difficult points.