How to drain water from a bath. How to make a drain in the bath? Draining water from the bath: diagrams, drawings

A well-planned bath project not only increases the operational life of the building, but also protects it from the appearance of mold and pathogens, and also increases the heat transfer of the heating installation. The main requirement of the bath is a thorough draining of wastewater.

A properly designed structure using concrete and boards will eliminate odors and reduce the growth of pathogens.

How to make a drain in the bath with your own hands? You will find the answer to this question in our material.

How is the sewerage system arranged?

The correct outflow of wastewater in the bath can be done in several ways:

• flowing;
• not flowing.

In the first case, it is collected in a special department, where the waste liquid flows into the sewer pipes. In the second option, during the construction of the building, a certain angle of inclination is made with additional gutters to drain dirty water.

A detailed diagram helps to avoid common mistakes in self-construction. It includes:

Trench preparation for pipe laying. The depth of the grooves must not exceed 0.5 m. correct angle tilt. To do this, each subsequent pipe is fixed 3 cm above the previous one.

The bottom of the trench is sprinkled with sand. The height of such a substrate should be 16 cm after tight tamping. In the process of laying, it is important to observe the angle of inclination.

Further, all the pipes are interconnected and laid on the bottom of the pits. If there is a bathroom in the bath, then it is necessary to install an additional sewer riser. To do this, it is fixed at the wall surface with a special fixative.

For proper circulation of air masses in the toilet, it is necessary to install additional ventilation. This will reduce the lingering of unpleasant odors indoors.

After that, proceed to laying the flooring. In the process of installing the sewer, it is necessary to attach additional metal gratings. They will prevent large debris from entering the drain hole.

To eliminate an unpleasant smell, special water seals will help. They are rubber pads that are fixed in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe drain hole.

The main parameters for choosing a sewer system for a bath

How to make a drain in the bath? Before proceeding with the construction of an external sewage system, it is recommended to consider several main factors:

• intensity of use of the bath room;
• building dimensions;
• the type of soil composition in the area where the premises will be located;
• the level of freezing of the soil cover in winter;
• connection to the central sewer.

These factors are an integral part of the initial stages of designing a bath. For frequent use of the premises, it is necessary to design a complex sewerage system.

In addition, ground filtration is carried out. In addition, it is enough to use a sewage pit. Waste will gradually be absorbed into the thickness of the soil cover.

If the site is dominated by sandy soil, then drainage rings are used for reliability. For clay soil, the best solution would be to strengthen the internal walls. As the pit fills with waste, it must be cleaned with special equipment.

Advantages and disadvantages of sewer drain devices

Today, there are a huge number of devices for arranging drain sewer for a bath. They have both positive and negative sides. These include:

Drainage well. It is a deep pit, the walls of which are filled with filtrate. For this, sand, small gravel, pebbles are used.

The advantages of this method include: low cost of materials, ease in the process of arrangement. The disadvantages include the laborious process of replacing filtered masses with new ones.

Drain well. This is a large container for collecting sewage liquids, in which waste from the bath gradually accumulates. As it is filled, it is cleaned using special equipment or a machine.

The advantages of such a system are: ease of installation and arrangement of the drain pit, low cost. The negative qualities include: frequent cleaning, inconvenient location of the drain well. As a rule, installation should be carried out at the lowest point of the site.

Pit. It is located under the floor covering of the bath. Drainage waste is collected in this pit and is self-cleaned through a filtrate of fine materials.

The positive qualities of the system include: low cost of materials, easy installation. The disadvantages of such a structure are: low throughput, it can be used on sandy and sandy soils.

Ground filtration. This is a system that consists of a septic tank and several pipes. Purified water flows through them. The pipeline is laid at a certain angle, due to which all the liquid will independently drain and be absorbed by the soil.

The advantages of such a system are considered: it can be used for the entire sewer network, it is used to thoroughly clean the liquid from harmful impurities. The photo of the drain in the bath shows the process of filtering sewage waste.

Photo drain in the bath

When building a bath, special attention should be paid competent organization water drainage systems. If everything is done correctly, there will never be a fungus in the sauna and there will be no unpleasant odors. And the building itself will serve much longer.

Floors in the bath - we select a suitable base

A Russian bath or sauna in your own countryside is the dream of many people. Bringing it to life is not so difficult. It is enough to deal with all the features of the construction and arrangement of the steam room, in particular, with the rules for organizing drainage in it. This issue needs to be given more attention. If you do not organize an effective drain of waste water from the sauna, after a couple of years after the start of operation, its foundation, floor base and lower parts of the walls will become unusable. Naturally, very soon all these problems will cause the destruction of the building.

Draining in the bath is really do-it-yourself, but first we need to deal with all the existing drainage options, choose optimal system, and only after that proceed to the arrangement of the drain. The first issue to be resolved is related to the type of floors in the steam room. They can be made:

• concrete;
• wooden.

A concrete floor is ideal for a permanent sauna where water treatments are taken throughout the year. Such a base consists of several successive layers. Compacted gravel comes first, then concrete mortar, vapor barrier, heat insulator (it is best to use polystyrene foam plates). The insulation is covered with polyethylene, which acts as a hydroprotector. Another layer of concrete is laid on it. The entire structure is fixed with a cement reinforced screed. At the very end, the concrete base is lined with tiles (ceramics) or other finishing material.

A wooden floor is built much faster and easier. It is mounted in baths operated exclusively in the warm season. The cost of wooden foundations is significantly less than that of concrete ones. But there is one problem here. Even with careful processing of wood special. compositions after a while, it will begin to deteriorate under the influence of moisture and high temperature. 5-6 years of operation, and such a floor will have to be completely redone. This should be remembered when choosing the type of foundation for your bath.

Wooden floors are structurally divided into non-leaking and leaking. The first of these are always laid on a pre-made concrete screed (it must necessarily have a certain slope). Non-leaking structures are prone to rotting, since after using the steam room they dry for a long time. Leaking floors from this point of view are more convenient to use. They simply lay on the logs without rigid attachment to the latter. Laying boards is carried out with small (about 5 mm) gaps. It is through them that water is removed from the surface of the flooring. At any time, such a floor can be removed, taken out into the street under the hot sun and dried.

If it is planned to build a leaking foundation, a pit (preferably sealed) should be made under the sauna and a pipe connected to it, through which the drainage will be carried out.

Drainage systems - pros and cons during operation

Having dealt with the type of floors, we proceed to the selection of a suitable drainage system. There are several options for arranging a drain:

• soil filtration technique;
• installation of a drain or drainage well;
• pit.

The choice of a particular system depends on the geometric parameters and frequency of use of the bath, the presence or absence of a centralized sewage system on the site, the depth to which the soil freezes, and directly the type of soil available. If a person plans to go to his own sauna with two or three friends a couple of times a week, there is no special need for organizing a complex drain (for example, soil filtration). In such situations, you can get by with low costs by building a simple pit or well for waste water. If the bathhouse becomes a permanent gathering place for a large number of hot steam lovers, you will have to take care of arranging a more "fancy" and efficient system.

On clay-type soils, it is most reasonable to make a drain hole. Used water will enter it from the bath through pipes, and then pumped out. For sandy and similar soils, systems in the form of drainage wells are more suitable. We also take into account the most important requirement - the pipes through which water will be drained must be laid below the freezing level of the soil. If you mount them above the indicated mark, in severe frosts they will freeze, and we will not be able to fully use a private bathhouse.

Let's talk about the pros and cons different systems plum. And then we will find out exactly how each of them is mounted. Let's start with the simplest system - the pit. It, in fact, is a hole that is dug under the floor base of the steam room. A layer of filter material is placed at the bottom of the pit. Water passes through it, is purified, and then gradually seeps into the soil. The pit does not require pipes or any other communications. Its arrangement takes a minimum of time. These are definitely pluses. But such a solution also has disadvantages. First, the pit should not be made on soils that do not absorb water well. Secondly, it cannot be mounted in saunas with a foundation in the form monolithic slab. Thirdly, even a deep pit is characterized by an objectively low throughput potential.

Not much more expensive will be in the arrangement and the drain well. This is understood as a sealed tank for collecting wastewater, buried in the ground. When it fills up, the owner of the bath calls for a cesspool truck. She pumps out water. Any summer resident will make a drain system, spending a minimum of effort on work. Here you just need to choose the right place to install the tank. It should be mounted on the lowest piece of land. any special care behind the drain well is not required. The disadvantages of the system are the need to regularly call in special equipment to pump out water and to equip fairly wide ways to get to the tank. The sewer truck will not pass along a narrow path.

A drainage well is a deep and wide pit that is filled with a layer of a filter element. As such, furnace slag, small pieces of bricks, crushed stone, building sand. Digging a hole is easy. Cover it with filtrate too. But maintaining the drainage system is not easy at all. Drains from it are not pumped out. They go into the ground. At the same time, at least once every 5–6 months, it is necessary to completely change the filter layer and clean the well. Such an operation requires considerable labor costs, which negates all the advantages of the system.

The advantages and disadvantages of the ground filtration method will be discussed below. And we will immediately describe how exactly such a system is made. professional builders. It is considered the most effective option for draining effluent from private saunas.

Ground filtration - how effective and durable?

The method of soil wastewater treatment requires the installation of a complete sewer system. It includes pipes for collecting and draining water and a special septic tank. The latter plays the role of a distribution well and at the same time a sump. Some craftsmen assemble a septic tank on their own, but more often they buy it in ready-made in specialized stores. The advantages of the system are high-quality purification of heavily polluted waters, completely autonomous operation, no need to call equipment to pump out the well. Disadvantages - a huge amount of land (very labor-intensive) work, the considerable cost of consumables and equipment used, the need to allocate a large site for the installation of a septic tank.

A step-by-step guide to setting up a soil filtration system is provided below. First, we determine the location of the septic tank. We deepen it into the soil by 150–250 cm. Then we bring the sewer pipe to the installed container. We remind you! It should be laid below the ground freezing mark. After that, we prepare drainage perforated pipes (the so-called drains). We select their cross section and length, taking into account the volume of drains. In most cases, plastic products with a cross section of 110 cm are used as drains. Other pipes can be used by drilling a series of holes in them.

The length of one drainage pipe is undesirable to take more than 25 m. Pipes are laid in trenches about 1 m wide (minimum 50 cm). The distance between individual drains must be kept at least 150 cm. The installation process itself looks like this:

1. 1. We draw up a scheme for laying drains. We dig a trench with a slope of about 1.5 °, checking its accuracy with a building level.
2. 2. If the soil is sandy, we make a pillow of gravel and sand at the bottom of the trench (the thickness of each layer is 10 cm), and then we lay geotextiles on top. For clay soils, the procedure is similar. But in this case, it is not necessary to use geotextile material. On loam, a pillow is allowed not to be made. In this case, the pipes must be wrapped in geotextiles. Thus, we will reduce the risk of siltation of the system.
3. 3. We lay the prepared drains. At their end we install a half-meter (slightly more) pipe for ventilation.
4. 4. Fall asleep drains 10 cm of gravel. Fill the trench to the top with a layer of soil.
5. 5. We cover the vent outlet. pipes with a protective cap. It will prevent leaves and debris from entering the ventilation duct.

System soil filtration stock is ready! With proper arrangement, it will serve without accidents for at least 15 years. But after a specified period of time, it will be necessary to change the pillow under the drains, as it will gradually silt up during the operation of the sewer.

We make a pit - a simple and quick operation

As noted, drainage from small, rarely used baths is allowed to be organized using a pit. The scheme of its device is as follows:

1. 1. We dig a hole under the future floor base of the steam room.
2. 2. We fill our mini-pit with a layer of rubble, expanded clay or broken bricks.
3. 3. Pour sand on top.
4. 4. Install wooden logs over a pit with a filter pad made.
5. 5. We lay the boardwalk on the mounted supporting elements. Lumber, as you remember, we install not close, but with gaps.

Boards can be nailed to the joists. But it is better not to do this in order to be able to periodically remove the flooring and dry it outdoors.

Some craftsmen make an improved pit. It performs the function of a collection of effluents, which, after reaching a predetermined level, go into the sewer. This version of the pit is also constructed quite simply. Digging a cubic hole under the floor. We take the length of the ribs of such a pit at least 50 cm. We protect the walls and bottom of the pit from moisture. The easiest and most reliable way to fill them concrete mix. Although you can use some kind of roll waterproofing, for example, roofing material.

Further, at a height of about 10 cm from the floor base, we bring the pipe to the pit. We take it out of the building under a slope (otherwise the drains will not be able to leave the pit by gravity). Installing a water seal. It is a device that does not allow unpleasant sewer odors to penetrate into the steam room. The simplest water seal is a metal plate installed with a slight inclination. From the bottom of the pit, its lower end must be 5 centimeters distant. Also, the shutter can be made from an ordinary rubber ball. It should be fixed above the pit (directly above the drain). When the tank is empty, the ball closes the pipe, and when the tank is full, it floats, and the water flows freely through the pipe.

We build a drain well - a practical option

A drain pit is rightfully considered the most rational way to organize drainage from a bath. We need to dig a hole and install a metal or plastic tank in it. This option does not require significant effort. But the durability of the drain structure is not very large. Therefore, home craftsmen prefer other ways of arranging similar system. They make pits out of iron concrete rings or lay out the walls of the well with bricks. In this case, the design becomes more reliable, due to which its service life is significantly increased.

Working with reinforced concrete products is difficult. But brickwork is quite realistic for any self-taught master. We describe the last option for organizing the drain step by step:

1. 1. We choose a place for a well, remembering that it is always located at the lowest point of the land allotment. In addition, we need to immediately take care of arranging the entrance to the drain pit for the machine pumping out wastewater.
2. 2. We dig a hole of the planned size. It is recommended to make it rectangular or square. Then the amount of earthwork will be smaller. We make sure that the walls of the pit are smooth and dense (we do not allow the soil to shed from them).
3. 3. We make the bottom of the pit with a slope, directing it to the hatch.
4. 4. We fall asleep a 15-centimeter layer of sand into the pit, we ram it. Pour concrete on top. Installation on the bottom of a finished slab (reinforced concrete) is allowed. Due to this, it is possible to reduce the time of work, since you do not have to wait several weeks for the concrete mortar to completely harden.

Now we start laying the walls of our drain structure. The operation is performed using a new or used red brick. We make the masonry with a thickness of 25–30 cm. We mount the bricks with an offset of half a stone. We fix the products with a composition composed of sand, clay and water. In one of the walls we put a pipe for the effluents entering the well.

Brick is a permeable material. Therefore, the masonry must be additionally sealed. We use for moisture protection any bituminous mastic. We impose it strictly according to the manufacturer's recommendations. After waterproofing the walls, we mount the ceiling on the well. It should be 25–30 cm larger than the pit (on each side). It is desirable to make the ceiling from reinforced concrete. This design has considerable weight, but it is distinguished by durability and unique strength.

The installation process of the ceiling is as follows: we assemble the formwork, fill it with concrete (a layer of about 7 cm), mount metal reinforcement, and add another concrete layer from above. We are waiting for the hardening of the overlap. After the crystallization of concrete, we mount a hatch in the center of the slab. We take plastic wrap. We cover it with a flooded ceiling, we fill it with soil. Only a hatch remains on the surface of the earth. Through it, effluents will be pumped out of the brick tank after filling the tank to a critical level.

Drainage structure - how to do it?

A drainage well is made exclusively in areas where groundwater flows very deep. With their high location, the structure of interest to us will not be able to perform its function. It will begin to fill with groundwater, and the drains from the bath will simply have nowhere to collect. A drainage well should be dug 2–2.5 m from the walls of the building. If, the risk of subsidence or wetting of the foundation will increase. With a smaller distance between the wall of the building and the pit, we will not be able to organize the required slopes that ensure the gravity flow of water.

Having chosen a suitable place, we dig a cylindrical well in the ground. Theoretically, the well can have any other shape. But practice shows that cylindrical pits are much less likely to need repair work. In addition, they note a uniform distribution of loads on the walls. We choose any depth and size of the well. For large and actively visited baths, the parameters of the well, of course, should be more impressive than for saunas, which their owners use only from time to time.

• Calculations of walls with brick or wild stone. Important! We carry out laying of products with small gaps. They are needed to naturally remove moisture.
• Tanks made of metal or plastic. Before installation in a pit in the tank, you need to make holes on the sides and cut off the bottom.
• Stacking several old car tires Each other.
• Installation of slate sheets. This option is suitable for wells in the shape of a rectangle or square.

We pour crushed stone, broken brick or expanded clay into the fortified pit, making a pillow 10–15 cm high. Then we cover it with sand (the thickness is the same). We dig a trench to the well from the sauna (do not forget about the slope, it is optimal if it is 1 cm for each meter). We put a drain pipe in it. We put the last one in the drainage hole. After that, you need to install a cover on the well. It is better to make it metal and be sure to be removable. After all, we will have to regularly service the drainage pit, changing the filter layer in it and cleaning it. It remains to cover the lid with polyethylene and fill the structure with soil.

Choose suitable option sewerage for a bath and we do all the work ourselves. Guided by the instructions given, we will equip a real effective system drainage.

Having your own sauna is the dream of most homeowners. Many of them embark on self-construction to make their dream come true. One of the most important points in the construction is the organization of water drainage. A well-designed and installed structure will protect the foundation and wooden details from destruction, prevent the possible appearance of fungus and unpleasant odors. How to make a drain in the bath according to all the rules? Let's figure it out.

Internal sewerage system

Wastewater collection in the bath can be carried out different ways. The choice of the best option depends on what floors are planned to be laid. They may or may not leak. In the first case, it is planned to equip a special reservoir for collecting water, from which effluents will go into the sewer. In the second case, an inclined floor is equipped, and gutters and ladders are mounted along which water will drain.

In any case, the sewerage system must be equipped before laying the floors. The general scheme of its installation is as follows:

On this, the installation of sewage inside the bath can be considered completed. It remains only to connect sanitary equipment and a toilet bowl to the system, if necessary. Now it's time to tackle the outdoor sewerage.

Video - do-it-yourself sewer installation process in the bath

How to choose a waste disposal method?

There can be many options for organizing an external bath sewer. When choosing one of them, be sure to consider the following points:

• estimated intensity of use of the bath;
• building dimensions;
• type of soil on the site;
• soil freezing depth;
• the presence or absence of a sewer system on the site;
• Possibility of connection to the centralized sewerage system.

These are the most important aspects that will determine the best way to divert water. For example, for a small bath, where two or three people will wash once a week during the warm season, it is not worth equipping a complex sewer system using soil filtration. A drain pit or even a pit under the building will be quite enough here. Whereas for a bath in which it is planned to wash all year round, a more complex drainage system will be needed.

The type of soil is also important. For well-absorbing sandy soils, a drainage well is the best solution. This is not suitable for clay soils. Here the best option there will be an arrangement of a drain pit, from where drains will be periodically removed. When installing the system, one should not forget about the level of soil freezing. If it is not taken into account, water in pipes laid above this level will freeze in severe cold and destroy the sewer.

Methods for arranging wastewater disposal

There are several effective and relatively low-cost ways to organize the draining of water in a bath. All of them are fairly easy to do on your own. Consider their main advantages and disadvantages.

Drain well

Represents sealed container, in which effluents from the bath accumulate. When the well is full, it is emptied using a special machine. System advantages:

• simplicity in arrangement;
• It does not require special care;
• low cost.

The disadvantages include the following:

• the need to regularly call a sewage truck, which entails certain costs.
• organization of convenient access for special equipment to the well;
• the drain well should be equipped at the lowest point of the site.

drainage well

It is carried out in the form of a pit filled with filtrate, which cleans the drains. As a filler, you can use sand, crushed stone, small pieces of brick or furnace slag. Design advantages:

• low cost;
• simplicity in arrangement.

The system has one drawback - the need to change the contaminated filtrate or clean it every six months, which requires serious labor costs.

Pit

A hole dug directly under the floor of the washing room in the bath. Its bottom is filled with filtrate, through which runoff passes, is cleaned and gradually passes into the lower layers of the soil. System advantages:

• the use of pipelines and other structural elements is not required;
• low installation cost.

The disadvantages include:

• low throughput;
• the technology is unsuitable for use in the construction of a bath with a slab foundation;
• suitable for use only on highly absorbent soils.

Using the Ground Filtration Method

It is a system consisting of a septic tank and pipes diverging from it, through which purified water is discharged. Pipes are laid at a slope so that the liquid flows by gravity and is absorbed by the soil. Design advantages:

• completely autonomous work;
• can be used to equip a full-fledged sewer system with several points for collecting wastewater;
• the possibility of cleaning not only "gray", but also "black" drains, in this case at least an anaerobic septic tank is installed.

Significant disadvantages:

• the need to allocate a site for a septic tank;
• time-consuming installation process, the need for a large number of land works;
• rather high cost of equipment and consumables.

As an option, you can consider connecting to a centralized sewer. This is the optimal solution to the problem of wastewater. In this case, no external devices for receiving and processing wastewater will be needed. Another plus is the ability to connect several points of water intake at once. The disadvantages of this option can be considered the high cost of the services of contractors and bureaucratic red tape, which often occurs when issuing permits.

Drain well: manufacturing technology

Drainage pit is a practical solution for wastewater disposal. It can be set up in a variety of ways. The easiest is to dig a plastic or metal container into the ground. You can make a hole from reinforced concrete rings, fill the walls with concrete or lay them out with bricks. Let's consider the last option in detail.

Starting with a choice suitable place. It should be located at the lowest point of the site, since the sewage will have to move by gravity. In addition, we take into account that the pit will regularly need to be freed from drains, so it is necessary to provide a convenient access for the cesspool truck. Having outlined the location, we get to work:

1. We dig a hole. This is a time-consuming process that can be facilitated by using an excavator. If this is not possible, we dig with a shovel, carefully observing the condition of the walls. They should be even and not crumble. The shape of the pit can be any. The best option is a square or rectangle, which is much easier to form.

   
   

2. Preparing the bottom. For effective cleaning tank, its bottom must be given a slight slope towards the hatch. We fill the prepared surface with a sand cushion about 15 cm thick. Then we concrete the bottom. We are waiting for complete drying.
   
   

   Tip: Instead of concreting the bottom of the drain pit, you can lay a reinforced concrete slab of the desired size.

3. Laying out the walls. The material for work is red brick, you can also use a used one. As a solution, we choose a mixture of clay and sand. Masonry is carried out in the usual way with a brick offset by half in each subsequent row. The thickness of the masonry should not be less than 0.25 m. Do not forget to install an inlet pipe in one of the walls through which drains will flow.

   
   

4. We seal the structure. Since brick walls are partially permeable, they must be treated with a sealant. For work, we choose bituminous mastic or a similar composition. We apply it to the walls, strictly following the manufacturer's instructions.
5. Installing the cover. It is best to make it from reinforced concrete, which is strong and durable. The upper part of the pit should be covered from each side by 30 cm. We place the pumping hole above the area where the bottom is sloped. Overlapping is mounted in several stages. First, we install the formwork and pour the first layer of concrete, 5-7 cm thick. We lay metal rods on top and pour the second layer of concrete. Let the solution dry well.

   
   

6. We install the sunroof. We cover the overlap with a film and fill it with soil so that only the hatch remains outside.

The drain pit is ready for use.

drainage well

Such a system can only be installed in a site with deep groundwater. Otherwise, due to the design features of the drainage well, it will be constantly filled with groundwater, and there will no longer be room for drains. Before starting work, we determine the place where the well will be located. It is optimal to take it from the wall of the bath by 2 meters. If the distance is greater, certain difficulties will arise with the organization of the necessary slope of the drain pipe, which is necessary for the drains to drain by gravity.

In addition, the close location of the well threatens the foundation with wetting or subsidence. Having decided on the installation site, we find out what materials we need for installation. It depends on the type of soil. If it does not crumble, we will not need to strengthen the walls of the pit. However, such soils are not found everywhere. Most often, the walls need to be strengthened. You can do this in different ways:

Let's get to work:

The drainage well is ready for use.

Tip: If the site has sandy, well-absorbing soil, instead of a well, you can equip a horizontal drainage pad. It is a trench about 1 m long, 0.3 m wide and 1 m deep. A crushed stone pillow 20 cm high is laid out on the bottom, soil is poured on top. Drainage is brought directly to this pillow, cleaned and absorbed into the soil.

Pit

The pit is a reservoir for wastewater, located directly under the wash room. You need to understand that such a system will be effective only for small baths that are used infrequently. Pit construction work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. We dig a hole under the future floor, the volume of which will be enough to collect water.
2. We strengthen the walls of the pit in any way possible: brick, wild stone or slate.
3. At the bottom of the resulting tank we lay a filter pad. First, a layer of crushed stone, broken brick or expanded clay is laid. We put sand on top of this layer.
4. We mount logs on top of the pit. We lay a wooden floor on them, the floorboards of which should not fit snugly against each other so that water can drain into the pit.

Tip: The floorboards of the wooden floor laid over the pit do not need to be nailed to the joists. In this case, they can, if necessary, be removed and taken out to dry.

There is another option for arranging a pit, which in this case plays the role of a water collector, from which effluents, having reached a certain level, are discharged into a sewer or septic tank. Such a system is usually arranged under "leaking" floors. Let's get to work:

One of the main elements of such a system is autonomous septic tank, which is both a sump and a distribution well. Drainage pipes depart from it, which distribute purified water throughout the site. A septic tank can be purchased at the store or assembled by yourself. In the latter case, the simplest option for self-manufacturing- construction of plastic or metal containers. A septic tank made of concrete rings, as well as a structure made of concrete or brick, works effectively.

In any case, the installation of the system begins with the installation of a septic tank. We install the tank to a depth of 1.2-2.5 m. It is not necessary to lower the tank deeper, otherwise there may be a problem with the post-treatment of wastewater, which is carried out by anaerobic bacteria. We bring a sewer pipe to the septic tank. It should be buried below the freezing level of the soil. After installing the septic tank, we proceed to the preparation of drains, the so-called drainage pipes.

Their length and diameter depend on the number of drains. The most commonly used standard plastic pipes 11 cm in diameter. You can take ordinary plastic sewer pipes and make holes in them. You need to know that in the upper part of the part, the diameter of the holes should be smaller than those located in the bottom. This is done to ensure that the outflow of water is uniform. The number of holes at the beginning and at the end of the pipe also differs. At the very beginning, perforation is performed more often, and at the end - less often, and most of them fall on the lower half of the pipe.

For proper arrangement of drainage, several rules are used:

• the length of each drain cannot be more than 25 m;
• the pipe laying depth is about 1.5 m, always below the level of soil freezing;
• minimum distance between drains - 1.5 m;
• the minimum width of the trench for the pipe is 0.5 m, the optimal width is 1 m.

After the pipes have been prepared, you can proceed with their installation:

Important: The soil filtration system requires periodic maintenance. It consists in replacing the silted sand and gravel cushion and the soil under it. Depending on the workload of the system, such work is carried out once every 10-15 years or less.

Properly organized draining of water in the bath is the key to its long and trouble-free functioning. It will protect the building from the damaging effects of moisture and prevent contamination of the site with sewage. Even for small baths, the arrangement of a sewer system is mandatory, especially since it is necessary for large rooms with separate shower room and toilet. The organization of the drain should be treated with all responsibility, avoiding mistakes and imperfections. And then new bath will only please its owner with a long, impeccable service.

Proper drainage of water from the bath is one of the most important points in the construction. Its durability directly depends on this, the absence of harmful smells of raw materials or fungus in it, and how often the foundation will have to be repaired later. In this article, we offer you to understand various options drainage system devices.

The easiest way is to install a drain pipe

The simplest and most tried and tested for decades draining water in a bath is a drain pipe, which is laid even during the construction of the steam room foundation. It must be done obliquely with respect to the drain pit itself - so you do not have to additionally insulate it.

The pit itself should be dug at a distance of 3 to 5 meters from the bath, and it is imperative to strengthen its edges from possible collapses. It is better if these are concrete rings - or a frame filled with concrete. But the bottom of the pit is important to make it so that the water in it is absorbed into the soil freely.

So that the drain of water for the bath does not become clogged, it is advisable to make the pipe completely without bends - after all, it is from them that it is most difficult to remove debris. And yes - you can only take a sewer pipe for these purposes, the diameter of which has its own strictly defined value.

Installing a drain pipe is quite simple, just follow these instructions:

• Step 1. A pit is being prepared, and a trench is digging from it to the bathhouse.
• Step 2. A drain pipe is installed - and it is not necessary to insulate it, but it will not hurt.
• Step 3. A cement floor is made in the washing room, with a slope around the entire perimeter to the drain pipe. It is important that the floor really turns out without dents - then water should not stagnate anywhere.
• Step 4. So that without any problems the bath can all year round work, the water drain is equipped with a grid - all the garbage will collect on it, and there will be no blockages in the pipe.
• Step 5. After all this, you can lay tile tiles on the cement floor - of the color and style that you like and matches the style of the bath interior. And already wooden grates with special impregnation are placed on the tiles - so that during pleasant bath procedures you do not have to walk barefoot on hot tiles.

Where and how best to drain the water?

But where the water itself will go - it all depends on the planned budget and the load on the drainage. So, it never hurts to build a separate cesspool at a distance from the bath, and already lay a trench from it and lay a sewer tube in it in good insulation.

And the most a budget option- right under the washing bookmark of gravel (both large and small), where the water will go.

Funnel - easy

Some attendants still make something like a funnel under the washing and steam rooms - they concrete its walls and smear them with liquid glass. In the center of such a funnel is a drain pipe that extends beyond the bath: into a pit, the walls of which are reinforced with bricks, or the pit itself is an old iron barrel without bottom.

At the bottom of the pit - gravel, on top - a cover made of thick metal and a hole for a ventilation pipe. Judging by the reviews, such a simple but reliable system can not be opened for ten years.

Drain hole outside the bath

But some builders today are convinced that water must be taken out of the bath. Like, the sand dries for a long time even in summer, and in winter all the water that goes under the foundation in the old fashioned way will simply turn into ice - and you can forget about warm floors in the steam room until spring.

Others are sure that very little water is used for one or two people in the bath, the steam room is usually used from time to time, and if the sand is not taken as ordinary, but as a large fraction, then no problems should arise ...

But the pit itself can be made using a technology that recent times becomes especially popular among attendants: the pit is made from the tires of a jeep or similar car. The water goes into this pit through plastic pipes, and so that neither cold nor cold enters the bathhouse in winter. unpleasant odors didn’t fall, a water lock is made - something like a hydraulic lock:

Point 1. A five-liter plastic bucket is taken, a handle is made of galvanized tape, and an iron pipe is placed on the lowest cord from the top tire - across the pit. A bucket is hung on it - it will hang like a cauldron over a fire, below the upper level of the pit.

Point 2. A corrugation is put on the end of the sewer pipe, which is lowered from above into the bucket - it will be at a distance of 10 cm from the bottom and 10 cm from the edge, i.e. in the middle of the bucket. That's the whole hydraulic lock - after draining, all the water will be collected in a bucket and overflow over the edge, gently flowing into the pit. And when the drain stops, the water that remains in the bucket will not allow the same air to enter the bath. And, even if dirt or leaves settle on the bottom of the bucket, it can always be turned over to clean it.

What system to make for a large number of people?

For a steam room, which three or four friends visit from time to time, one water outlet in the bath is needed, but for a whole company of regulars it is already different. In a bath for a small number of bathers, usually drain hole built right under the foundation. Its walls can be lined with bricks and covered with coarse sand - for a summer bath, that's it. But in the second case, you will already need a special pipe that will go to the drainage well - and below the freezing level of the soil, otherwise it will freeze. Or you can combine both methods - using the first in summer, and the second in winter.

And so that the water from the bath does not waste in vain and does not pollute the environment, you can use a septic tank that will clean it and distribute it through irrigation pipelines. The most complex and expensive way to remove and purify water from a bath is a well with biological filters. It contains slag, brick battle and rubble. The whole secret is that with the constant entry of bath wastewater into the well, it eventually becomes covered with silt, and in the sludge there are microorganisms that then purify the wastewater. Such a septic tank is usually built in the lowest place on the site.

That's all! Nothing complicated - a competent drain in the bath can be done with your own hands.

How to drain water in a bath - options for sewerage devices

It is no secret that many owners dream of having their own bathhouse, some of them even do most of the work with their own hands. Below we will describe one of the most important elements of the bath. Namely, how to drain the water in the bath without the help of specialists, so that the result is a high-quality design, no fungus forms in the system and no unpleasant odor comes out.

The design of the internal sewerage

Bath wastewater collection can be carried out in different ways. Definition best method, as a rule, depends on the type of laying of the future floor. If the floor is leaking, then you will need to install a special tank to collect water, from which drains will move into the sewer.

If it is planned to lay a non-leaking floor, then you will need a concrete drain in a sloping bath, equipped with gutters and ladders, designed to drain water. It is worth noting that the slope of the floor in the bath for water drainage must be taken into account.

However, it should be understood that the sewerage system must be done before laying the floors.

The sequence for installing a drain in a steam room will be as follows:

1. We are preparing a groove for sewer pipes with a depth of 50-60 cm. Their slope should be 2 cm per meter.
2. Now we make a pillow of sand, falling asleep to the bottom, with a layer of up to 15 cm. We tamp well, not forgetting the slope.
3. We lay pipes.
4. If you plan to install a toilet, we mount a sewer riser. Fixing it to the wall is carried out with pipe clamps. We equip the riser with ventilation.
5. We produce flooring.
6. We connect gutters with gratings or ladders to the sewerage system. See also: "How to make a sewer in the bath, what must be provided."

It is worth noting that when constructing a water drain in a bathhouse under the floor, in order to prevent the appearance of an unpleasant odor in the room, all junctions of the water intake with the sewer pipe must be equipped with a hydraulic seal. All ladders, as a rule, already have this element.

Now you can move on to the equipment of the external sewage system.

Definition with the drainage method

Before you fill the floor in a bath with a drain, you need to choose one of the methods of outdoor sewage equipment and take into account such nuances:

• future intensity of sauna use;
• building dimensions;
• soil type;
• depth of soil freezing;
• whether there is another sewerage system on the site;
• the presence of a centralized sewer system, and whether it is possible to connect to it.

If the bath is small, up to three people wash in it, and bathe once a week, and it’s warm outside, there is no need to design a complex device for draining water in the bath, supplementing it with soil filtration. It is quite possible to get by with a drain pit or a pit under the structure. An improved system for draining bath water is needed only if bath events are held all year round.

It is worth considering the type of soil. For sandy soils that absorb moisture well, a drainage well can be installed. If the soil is clayey, then you will have to make a drain hole, from which drains can be removed from time to time. The degree of freezing of the soil is also important, otherwise the water in the pipes in severe frosts can simply freeze and damage the sewerage system.

Drain Arrangement Methods

Currently, one can choose from several effective and, to some extent, inexpensive methods determining how to organize the draining of water from the bath. You can do all of them yourself, they also have their positive and negative sides.

Drain well

The drain well is a sealed container for collecting effluent from the bath. Such a container is emptied by a special machine.

The system has a number of advantages:

• ease of arrangement;
• no special care is needed;
• low cost.

But there are also disadvantages:

• the need for systematic cleaning of the well, which entails additional costs;
• access to the well should be organized for special equipment;
• the well should be in the lowest place of the site.

drainage well

It is a pit, inside which there is a filtrate for cleaning wastewater. The filler can be sand, crushed stone, small pieces of brick, furnace slag.

The positive qualities of this design:

• small financial costs are needed;
• ease of arrangement.

The only disadvantage is that in such a system it is necessary to replace the filtrate or clean it about once every 6 months, and this is additional labor costs.

Pit

It is a pit located under the floor of the washing room. At the bottom of the pit is the filtrate, which passes the drains, cleaning them.

The advantages of such a system:

• no need to lay a pipeline;
• cheap installation.

The cons will be:

• low filtration rate;
• there is only the possibility of using such a drain of water in a bath with wooden floors;
• can be used in places with soil that absorbs moisture well.

Application of the ground filtration method

Such a system has a septic tank, from which pipes with purified water depart (read: "How to make a septic tank for a bath or choose a ready-made one"). Pipes must be laid at a slope so that water enters the soil spontaneously.

Positive properties of the system:

• no intervention is required in the operation of the system;
• it can be installed in places equipped with a complete sewerage system with several waste collection points;
• you can clean the "gray" and "black" drains, you will need to install an anaerobic septic tank.

List of disadvantages:

• under the septic tank you will need to allocate a site;
• installation complexity and a large amount of land work;
• the high cost of the elements of the system.

If possible, you can connect to the central sewer. In this case, there will be no problems with wastewater disposal, there will be no need to purchase additional external devices for collecting and filtering wastewater. The advantage is that it becomes possible to connect several points of water intake at the same time.

The disadvantages include the fact that such an approach can become expensive due to the high cost of the services of contractor organizations, as well as paperwork in the preparation of permits.

Drain well construction technology

This solution is considered quite practical, not only as a drain in a frame bath, but also in any other. The easiest way, equipping such a hole, is to dig a container made of plastic or metal into the ground. You can also use reinforced concrete rings, lay out brick walls, or simply fill the walls with concrete. See also: "How to make a drain in the bath with your own hands - tips from the master."

In any case, first determine the location of the well. It must be placed in the lowest zone of the site so that the drains can move independently. It is also worth remembering that the pit will need to be cleaned of drains, so an entrance for special equipment should be organized.

After determining the location, you can start work:

1. First you need to dig a hole. This stage is considered quite laborious, so it is better to use an excavator for this purpose. Make sure that the walls of the pit are even and do not crumble. It is best if the pit is square in shape, although you can make it any way you like.
2. Now you need to prepare the bottom. To make the well easier to clean, its bottom must be made with a slope towards the hatch. Next, sand is poured onto the bottom to make a pillow 15 cm high. After that, the bottom is concreted, after complete drying, you can proceed to the next step. Alternatively, a ready-made concrete slab of the appropriate size can be laid on the bottom.
3. The next step will be the raising of the walls. You will need a red brick, and it does not have to be new. The solution is prepared from sand and clay. Brick laying is carried out in the usual way with a 50 percent offset. The thickness of the masonry must be equal to or exceed 25 cm. An opening for a sewer should be provided in one of the walls.
4. The next step is to seal the structure.. We take bituminous mastic or a similar sealant, and apply it to the walls according to the instructions.
5. Now it's time to install the cover. It is best to pay attention to reinforced concrete material. The top of the pit must be strong and durable. The hatch for pumping out must be installed above the place with the most low level bottom. Overlapping is carried out in several steps. First of all, we install the formwork, then pour a 5-7 cm layer of cement mortar, then lay steel bars and cover everything with a second layer of mortar. We are waiting for the plate to dry. The overlap should be calculated so as to protrude from all sides of the pit by 30 cm.
6. Now install sunroof, we cover the ceiling with a film and cover it with earth in such a way that only one hatch is visible from the outside.

Now the drain pit can be put into operation. See also: "How to properly drain water from a bath - drainage options."

drainage well

This system can only be installed in a site where groundwater flows at great depths. Otherwise, due to its design, such a well will always be filled with groundwater, which will make it impossible to collect wastewater in it.

First you need to decide on the location of the well, it is good if the gap between it and the bath is about 2 meters. For large distances, problems may arise in creating the desired slope of the drain pipe. However, placing the well too close will lead to wetting and subsidence of the foundation in the future.

Now you can decide on the material for installation. This will usually be affected by the type of soil, because if the soil crumbles, you will need to strengthen the walls, and this is a fairly common occurrence.

You can strengthen the walls in the following ways:

• Dig in a container made of plastic or steel, in which there is no bottom. It will need to make holes in it for the possibility of water movement.
• Lay out the masonry in half a brick, while taking into account the gaps for water drainage. Alternatively, you can use wild stone for styling.
• You can take tires and lay them well on top of each other. They need to cut off the edges and cut holes for the exit of water.
• If the well is rectangular, its walls can be reinforced with sheets wave slate. The laying should be such that the waves of the next sheet look perpendicular to the waves of the previous one.

The sequence of construction work:

1. Making a hole for a well. It is better if its shape is in the form of a cylinder, in which case the pressure on the walls in all places will always be the same. Also, such a pit will be much less likely to be repaired.
2. We strengthen the walls one of the methods described above.
3. Preparing the layer for filtering. At the bottom of the well, we make expanded clay, crushed stone backfill, or a pillow made of broken bricks. A layer of sand is poured on top.
4. Now you need to bring the sewer pipe. To do this, you need to dig a ditch with a slight slope to the well. A slope of 10 mm per meter of length is considered sufficient. It is worth remembering that the pipe must be laid below the freezing depth of the soil. Further, the outlet of the pipe can be brought into the well.
5. Installing the well cover. It can be either concrete or steel, but it must be removable, because about once every 6 months the well will need to be cleaned and filters replaced. Now we cover the lid with a film and fall asleep with soil.

Now the drainage well is ready.

Pit

The pit is nothing more than a wastewater tank installed directly under the washing room. It should be borne in mind that the use of this system is rational only for small baths, which are rarely used.

The construction of the pit must be carried out in the following sequence:

1. We dig a hole of the selected volume.
2. We strengthen the walls with any of the materials: brick, slate, wild stone.
3. A filtration cushion is poured to the bottom: first a layer of rubble, a brick or expanded clay battle, after which a layer of sand is poured.
4. Next, lags are installed over the pit. From above, the floor is laid under the bath for draining. At the same time, there should be small gaps between the boards to allow sewage to flow between them.

Alternatively, the floor board can not be nailed to the logs, so that they can be removed at any time and taken out of the bath for faster drying.

The pit can be equipped in another way, in which the drains, having reached a certain height, would be discharged into the sewer or septic tank. This system mounted, as a rule, under the "leaking" floors.

To install such a system, you will need to perform a number of works:

1. First you need to dig a hole under the floor small in size, similar in shape to a cube. The length of the rib must be equal to or greater than 50 cm.
2. The base and walls of the pit must be isolated from water.. Any will do waterproofing material, but it is best to use cement mortar.
3. Next to the pit, a pipe is laid, which is located at a height of 10 cm from the floor. She should go outside at a slight slope so that the water can leave the pit on its own.
4. Now you can install the hydraulic seal. It is needed in order to prevent unpleasant odors coming from the sewer from entering the bathhouse. The easiest way is to use a homemade hydraulic seal, which is a metal plate installed with a slope. We fix it to the pipe at three points, without fixing only its lower part. It is worth noting that the distance from the base of the pit to the bottom of the plate should be 5 cm. There is another way to make a homemade water seal - you can take a rubber ball and fix it over the drain of the pit. After filling the tank to a certain level, it pops up, opening the drain. After draining excess water, it descends, closing the pipe.

Ground filtration method

The most important part of such a system is an autonomous septic tank, which is both a sump and a distribution well. Sewer pipes extending from it distribute the filtered water along different places Location on.

You can buy a septic tank in one of the many shops, or you can make it yourself. If you chose the second option, it is best to make a structure from metal or plastic tanks. Also effective is the construction of concrete rings, as well as any other construction made of brick or concrete.

First of all, a septic tank is installed. The container is dug to a depth of 1 to 2.5 meters. It is not worth embedding a tank below, as problems may arise during the post-treatment of wastewater. Further, a sewer pipe is laid to the septic tank, which deepens below the depth of freezing of the soil. Now you can start preparing the drainage pipes.

The length and thickness of the pipes are determined by the amount of wastewater discharged. Often enough 11 cm plastic sewer pipes. Holes are made in them, given that they should be smaller from above than from the bottom. This is necessary so that the water drains evenly. In addition, holes are made more often at the beginning of the pipe, and further, as they move away towards the end of the pipe, they are made less and less.

For a more proper construction of the drainage system, you must adhere to a number of rules:

• the length of each drainage pipe should not exceed 25 meters;
• pipes should be laid to a depth of about 150 cm, but below the depth of soil freezing;
• the distance between the drainage pipes must be at least 150 cm;
• the ditch for laying pipes should have a width of at least 50 cm, preferably 100 cm.

After preparing the pipes, you can start laying them in the following sequence:

1. We dig ditches of a certain size. We take into account a slope of 1.5 degrees, from time to time we control the desired slope, for example, with a building level.
2. Depending on the type of soil, we prepare the base of the trench. If the soil is clayey, then at the bottom we make a sandy 10-centimeter pillow, and on top of the same thickness a layer of gravel. So that pipes do not silt on loam, they must be wrapped with a layer of some kind of filter material. A gravel pad is optional in this case. For sandy soils, pillows of sand and gravel are laid, and the pipes are wrapped in geotextiles.
3. Next, the drains are covered with a 10-centimeter layer of gravel, and the entire trench is covered with earth.
4. The filtration system must be equipped with ventilation. To do this, we install a ventilation pipe approximately 50 cm high at the end of the drainage pipe. A protective element is mounted on top of it so that various debris does not get into the pipe.

It is worth noting that such a filtration system needs periodic maintenance, as a rule, at least once every 10-15 years. That is, it will be necessary from time to time to replace the pillow and the soil under it.

A properly designed and installed drain system will ensure its long and trouble-free operation. The bath, thus, will be maximally protected from such adverse effects of moisture, and there will be no pollution of the territory by effluents.

In any case, it is necessary to install a sewage system in the bath. This means that this issue must be taken extremely seriously, without ignoring any nuances. Only in this case, the bath will please the owner with a long and trouble-free operation without the need to invest more and more money in it.

Drainage and drainage of water from the bath: device and installation of the drain system

Along with laying a sewer outlet from the bath, another task is being worked out, aimed at supplying water from the washing department to the pipes. Laying a road to a centralized discharge system or septic tank is half the job. It is also necessary to correctly direct the liquid into them so that it does not stagnate on the floor, but leaves the room.

The water remaining after washing is an unpleasant matter not only for a person, but also for flooring, especially wood. Dampness, odors and corrosive mold will destroy the wood and after 5 years of operation it will be necessary to repair or pour concrete floors in the bath. It is not necessary to delve into the difficulties caused by the lack of drainage, let's move on to the process of its manufacture.

The photo shows the type of sewer outlet under the foundation. The drain installation site is already ready, it remains only to lay the floor.

Pipe laying - the easiest way out

There is no need to contrive and think about how to properly lay complex drainage systems, if you lay the installation site at the design stage. Using this method, the construction plan should clearly show where the steam room and washing department will be located. Moreover, a schematic location of the drain in the floor is necessary in order to bring the pipe to this place. It is laid in the process of pouring the foundation, towards the pit, prepared in advance outside the bath at a distance of about 4-6 meters from it. Closer is not recommended for ethical reasons.

The outlet is usually not insulated and the temperature present in the underground space of the bath, standing on strip foundation, will be enough so that the outgoing water does not freeze in winter. When choosing a columnar base, the underground space is additionally insulated. This is necessary not only for the tap, but for the entire bath as a whole. A place for draining water is prepared in accordance with the rules for organizing sewerage for a bath: the recommended depth is maintained, the frame is reinforced with concrete rings or brickwork.

The pipe is laid without bends. Dirt will accumulate on them. And if you can’t do without it, the turns should be smooth. For this, adapters are purchased, made at the appropriate angle. The pipe is used only for sewerage. The material is plastic or asbestos cement.

This type of pipe laying is undesirable. Right angle of rotation, contributes to the accumulation of dirt inside.

Branch laying

All do-it-yourself work is doubly interesting when you know what to do. The process of laying a drainage system from a bathhouse to a sewer pit is carried out in several stages, and the first, laying the outlet sleeve in the foundation, is carried out even at the stage of pouring the latter.

When the bath is built, a drain pit is prepared and a drainage pipe is laid at an angle to it. Accordingly, the trench digs from the structure of one depth and the closer the distance to the drain, it is increased. It is not necessary to protect the drainage system, but it is desirable. By insulating the floors in the bath, you can additionally protect the pipe to the point of exit through the foundation. The trench is being buried, the sewer pit too.

In the washing department, when laying the floor, an inclination is made towards the installed drainage pipe. In concrete pavement, this is easier to do than in wood. When pouring a monolithic base, it is necessary to ensure that the floor is without holes in which water will stagnate. A special siphon with a mesh is mounted at the drain installation site. It is fixed at the base and after the concrete has hardened, finishing work can be carried out. The drain is ready. After commissioning, it is only necessary to check the tightness of the pipes of the siphon that removes water from the washing compartment.

The drain siphon can be small or as shown in the picture. This option is more convenient for a large washing compartment.

Where to drain water?

Of course, organizing a drain pit or a septic tank is the most profitable option, but if there are no funds in the budget for related materials, and there is no extra space on the site, you can do it easier by draining the water under the bath. Such a scheme is called a funnel. Even at the stage of laying the foundation for the bath, a hole is dug in the center, into which the drainage system is drained. The walls are concreted or smeared with liquid glass. The bottom is covered with gravel or rubble, the top of the pit is closed with work, and the underground space is necessarily covered with a sand cushion for additional insulation.

This option is good for baths used only on weekends, in fact, everyone exploits them that way. Water after washing on the weekend will be absorbed into the soil in a week. Simple and convenient. Only the organization of such a low tide is impossible with a high passage ground water Location on. Then they, and not the water from the bath, will fill the well.

This method of drainage has many supporters and opponents. Some say that the cold from the well in the underground space will rise up, causing inconvenience to the bathers, others claim that this does not happen. But as they say, how many masters have so many solutions. And the last option for draining water in the bath is used quite often, which means that it has proven its functionality and reliability in operation.

How to organize the drain of water from the bath

Today, baths are being built not only in villages, but also in dachas, in cottage villages. However, before starting construction, it is necessary to determine how to drain the water from the bath. From time immemorial, the drain was carried out directly under the building, where it went into the ground. But then there was no such population density and special unsanitary standards, which today are not only stupid, but also unsafe to ignore.

In order to avoid unnecessary difficulties with swamping your site or disputes with sanitary and epidemiological supervision, we will consider how water will be drained from it, at the lowest cost and maximum comfort for others.

Water drainage methods

So how can you organize a device for draining water from a bath?

The following options can be considered the most popular and widely used:

• draining water directly under the bath;
• discharge to the general sewerage;
• arrangement on the site of a drain pit for a bath;
• uniform distribution of water over the site with the help of drainage pipes.

Advice. You need to ask yourself how to drain water in a bathhouse at the planning stage, and if you decide to remove moisture outside the building (into a septic tank, into a sewer), then this must be taken into account when laying the foundation.
Sleeves are laid in the tape base, through which the outlet pipes will pass.

Drain under the foundation

The method with a drain pit is used if you do not visit the steam room very often and in an amount of no more than 1-3 people. In this case, directly under the floor bath building a hole is dug up to a depth of 2 meters, where the used water is drained.

For better absorption, the walls are not lined with solid masonry, but in a checkerboard pattern, which will allow moisture to escape not only through the bottom of the pit, but also to the sides. Unfortunately, this method has a significant drawback: in winter, water can freeze and damage the foundation.

Use of the central sewer

If there is an opportunity to insert a pipe into a centralized sewer on or near the site, this option is most preferable. You only need to bring the drain of the bath to one of the wells with your own hands or connect to the sewer pipe, and the question of how to organize the drainage of water will never bother you again.

But if there is no sewer pipe near your site, you will have to solve this problem yourself, fortunately, it is not difficult to do it yourself even alone.

Septic tank and filtration

This system for draining water in a bath and its purification is deservedly considered the most expensive, but at the same time it allows not only to efficiently organize the drain of water in a bath, but also to use this water for agricultural purposes.

To do this, you need to equip septic tanks in which water is purified, and then it enters the collector through a pipe, from where it is used for irrigation. But the disadvantage of such a system is its price, which includes the regular replacement of filters and the addition of microorganisms that take over the purification process.

drain hole

This is the most used method for draining not only used water, but also sewage from a private house. Making it is not at all difficult and the following instruction will tell you how to do it correctly.

Choosing a place and arranging a pit

According to the rules and regulations of the location cesspool it should be no closer than 12 meters from the dwelling. This rule should be taken as a basis for organizing the removal of moisture from the washing room. When choosing the type of pit, you must consider whether you will regularly clean it, or provide for the absorption of moisture into the soil. The second option is preferable in view of the fact that it requires less costs not only during construction, but also during operation.

However, you should take into account that a pit without a bottom can only be built if there is no surface groundwater and if no more than 1 cubic meter of water is drained per day.

Otherwise, the bottom and walls of the cesspool must be completely isolated from the ground. This is achieved by laying out the walls with bricks and concreting the bottom of the pit.

Since the concepts of a bath and draining water are inseparable, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the future waste bin.

Most optimal dimensions are:

• length not less than 1.5 m and not more than 3 m;
• width from 2m to 3m;
• depth from 1.5m to 3m.

Such dimensions will provide you with a sufficient volume of construction for the smooth functioning of your bath, even with frequent visits.

Operating procedure

1. You need to start by digging a pit. This can be done manually, but if there is an opportunity to attract an excavator, be sure to use it.

Advice: Excavation the most difficult type of work, and you will soon begin to understand this, having decided to take up the shovel yourself.
With the help of an excavator, for a small fee, in half an hour you will have a pit of the required volume on your site.

1. The walls and bottom of the pit must be leveled. This can be done manually by cutting with a bayonet shovel. Such work does not require a lot of effort and time.
2. Backfill the bottom of the pit with gravel mixed with sand, this will slightly improve moisture absorption and prevent clay and earth from penetrating into the pit.
3. Now you can start laying out the walls with bricks. Masonry is done in a checkerboard pattern, from the bottom to the very top.

1. The last step is a concrete floor, with a hole with a diameter of 30-50 cm for cleaning and an intake sleeve.
2. Now you just have to bring the sewer pipes through which the outflow of water from the bath will be carried out.

Brick for facing the pit is suitable only for clay and well-burnt, it is not recommended to use silicate or pressed briquettes of unknown composition.

Conclusion

The choice of technology that will ensure the drainage of water in the bath depends not only on your financial capabilities, but also on how often and how many people will use the washing room at the same time. The video in this article will also help you.

Probably, the vast majority of owners of summer cottages and suburban private houses cannot imagine their life without their own, since such a structure is an integral part of ancient Russian traditions. A bath is not only a place for washing, but also a kind of home “dispensary”, working to restore the strength and health of the owners, for the necessary periodic relaxation. But in order for it to bring only pleasant sensations, its arrangement, and in particular - all the necessary communications, must be done in accordance with all the rules.

One of the traditionally problematic components of the bath system is the disposal of used water, so it is very important to properly organize its removal and collection point. It is strictly forbidden to dump contaminated, untreated wastewater onto the ground or into natural water bodies, and such an approach will inevitably lead to penalties from environmental supervisory authorities. Therefore, in the absence of a centralized sewage system (as it most often happens), a special pit of storage or drainage action is usually created for these purposes. And in order for the drain pit for the bath to function effectively, it is necessary to study its design before starting construction, and during the period of work on the arrangement, follow the recommendations of experienced craftsmen.

The main types of drain pits

The arrangement of any drain pit is a rather laborious process, since the pit will most likely have to be dug manually. At the same time, such a hydraulic structure does not differ in the complexity of the design, so any owner of the site can build and equip it on their own, without even involving assistants, of course, if there is enough strength for earthmoving.

Drainage pits can be divided into three main types - a sealed container, a pit with drainage capacity, and consisting of several chambers.

To begin with, let's figure out what each of the varieties is in principle.

• A sealed drain pit is most often equipped at construction sites with shallow ground aquifers. It is often called a cesspool, that is, requiring periodic emptying of the collected volumes of dirty water.

For its construction, a pit is dug into which a container with a sufficiently large volume is installed. It will collect sewage. As the tank fills up to a certain critical level, the waste is pumped out by a sewage machine.

This option is environmentally friendly, since no contaminants and chemical cleaning solutions enter the soil and groundwater, which can adversely affect the condition of the fertile soil on the site, as well as have a negative impact on high ground aquifers. However, this option is not convenient and economical, since you will have to constantly monitor the filling level of the tank and often call specialized vehicles, and such services are not cheap.

Prices for septic tanks

• A hermetically closed bottom is not created in the drainage drain pit. As it is used bulk layer of filter building material- most often crushed stone or gravel is chosen for this purpose.

In addition, often in the walls drainage pit holes are also made at a certain height through which water will be absorbed into the ground. This option is great for a bath and is perhaps the easiest to build, however, if the characteristics of the soil on the site allow it.

• A septic tank is a whole system consisting of two or more chambers with different purposes.

In any of the options, the first chamber most often has a sealed design and is used for collecting, primary filtration and waste treatment - solid components settle to the bottom, and liquid ones are clarified, undergo a biological treatment cycle due to the action of aerobic microorganisms. This container is connected to the second chamber with a special overflow pipe - the clarified liquid waste flows into the next compartment, which is already organized according to the principle of a drainage well. Water passes through the drainage, is cleaned and absorbed into the soil.

If a septic tank of three tanks is planned, then the third chamber is made drainage. The second one serves for the final settling of suspensions, deeper purification of water through the action of anaerobic microorganisms. And from here comes the overflow of the purified liquid into the drainage well.

A septic tank is most often equipped in the case when it is supposed to collect the entire considerable amount of liquid waste from both a residential building and a bathhouse.

What is important to know about the design and rules of septic tank equipment?

The septic tank is already quite complex engineering structure, the creation of which must obey certain rules. Often homeowners prefer to install finished system factory production. What are the rules for arranging such a treatment plant, and what to pay special attention to when - read in a special publication of our portal.

Materials for arranging a drain pit for a bath

Various materials can be used to build drainage type bath drain pits. Their choice directly depends on the estimated volume of effluents, the financial capabilities of the owners of the site and the convenience of construction.

Drainage pit from barrels

To create this water drainage system, metal or plastic barrels of various sizes are used. However, such a drain can be equipped in different ways:

• First option. At the bottom of the excavated pit, covered with drainage material 300 ÷ 400 mm thick - crushed stone or coarse gravel, after tamping, a barrel with perforated walls and a cut bottom is installed. This takes into account the fact that between the walls of the barrel and the pit there should be a space of at least 100 mm, which is also filled with drainage backfill.

A pipe is brought into the barrel at the required slope angle, through which the used water from the bath will flow into the container. These runoffs will gradually, through the holes in the walls and through the bottom part, seep into the drainage layer, be cleaned, and then soak into the surrounding soil. In some cases, not only the free space of the pit is filled with drainage material, but even the barrel itself, that is, water will flow immediately into the drainage layers, and then into the ground. This way the barrel will never fill up.

It must be correctly understood that such a scheme is not suitable for collecting other types of wastewater from a residential building. For a bath, which is used for its intended purpose once or twice a week, such a pit becomes one of the best options.

• Second option. In this method of arranging the pit, two barrels are used, installed at different levels - one is about 200 mm higher than the other. They are interconnected at the top with an overflow pipe. Water from the bath enters the first upper container, soapy sediment and solid suspensions settle in it, and when it is filled, the water overflows into the second barrel, to which one or two long drainage pipes with perforated walls are attached.

The outlet pipes from the second tank are laid in drainage trenches with gravel or crushed stone filling, through which the water purified from chemical precipitation will be distributed, moistening the soil. The trenches are covered from above with a layer of fertile soil, approximately 500 mm thick, and can be planted with ornamental shrubs, which will constantly receive watering. Thus, two problems are solved at once - the removal of water from the bath and the irrigation of plants on the site.

This option for arranging a drain pit will be discussed in detail below.

Brick drain hole

The arrangement of the walls of the drain pit can be done with the help of bricks, which are laid out with gaps - through them, water is drained into the drainage backfill and further into the ground. The difference between this pit and the first version, made from a barrel, differs only in material, but the principle of operation remains the same. In the gap between ground and brick walls a drainage layer is filled up, which will purify the water and distribute it throughout the pit, diverting it into the ground.

A pit made of brick is more durable and designed for a larger volume of water. Moreover, if you dig a pit deep enough, and the bottom and lower part make the walls airtight, then this design may well be used to drain other waste, but in this case the pit will have to be periodically cleaned.

To equip such a variant of the drain pit, it is not at all necessary to use a new brick - the used material is also quite suitable.

Prices for metal barrels

metal barrels

Drainage pit made of concrete rings

If there are financial and technical possibilities, then the drainage pit can be built from concrete perforated rings, which are installed in the prepared pit. After installing the rings at the bottom of such a well, a drainage backfill is arranged.

In this option, the entire space between the walls, as in the previous cases, is also covered with drainage material, so the pit, provided that it is used only for bathing needs, will never be filled with water. In the same case, when the pit is deep enough and the bottom of the well is cemented, then such a pit is suitable not only for a bath, but also for a common one. True, this will require additional calculations, an assessment of the absorbent properties of adjacent soils and the location of aquifers.

Pit from old car tires

Drainage pit made from waste car tires can only be used for liquid waste, so it’s impossible better fit to collect periodically incoming water from the bath.

Tires are installed in different ways: in some cases, holes are cut in their side walls, in others a small gap between the slopes is provided, in others, the outer walls are almost completely cut off, but the principle of operation of the drainage pit remains the same.

This option for draining water from the bath can be called the most popular, as it is easy to arrange, affordable (tires are easy to find for free) and practical to use.

On the diagram, the numbers indicate:

1 - Crushed stone or gravel of a large fraction - drainage backfill, with a layer of 250 ÷ 300 mm thick.

2 - Old car tires.

3 - Drain pipe from the bath (there may be two of them)

4 - Crossbars for laying the cover.

5 - Cover or hatch.

Around the laid out stack of wheels, and sometimes inside the resulting well, a drainage cushion is backfilled, which makes it possible to retain and purify the water coming from the bath. With good drainage capacity of the soil and periodic use of the bath, the pit never overflows.

It should be noted that other materials that can withstand exposure to high humidity are also suitable for building a drain bath pit.

How to independently equip a drain pit for a bath

Soil survey at the site of the planned drain pit

In order for the drainage system from the bath to be effective, it is necessary to determine the type of soil in the area at the approximate depth of the planned pit. To do this, a trench or test hole is dug. In order for the bath to be used in winter, the depth must be below the freezing level of the soil. Information about soil freezing in a particular area is easy to find on the Internet, or you can consult with the owners of neighboring plots who have been using systems of such drain sewers for a long time.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Sandy soils, sandy loams, including those with stony inclusions, have good drainage capabilities.

But dense clay layers can cause problems. At high humidity, they are well saturated with water, swell, and become practically waterproof, when dried, they shrink. In addition, they are highly susceptible to frost swelling. These qualities of such soils are unfavorable both for laying and when laying pipes in trenches, as they can lead to deformations and damage to themselves and other elements of the system.

To build a drainage pit in such soil, if it extends to a great depth, is an almost meaningless exercise. Well, if it is necessary to lay a pipe through such layers to a drainage pit that reaches the depth of the soil with high absorbency, then the bottom of the trench must be lined with a sand cushion 100 ÷ 120 mm thick, which will prevent the hard impact of ground vibrations on the elements of the drain system.

The level of occurrence of groundwater (GWL) is also important, since the degree of absorption of water entering the drain pit will also directly depend on this. So, between the bottom of the pit and the location of a stable aquifer, there should be a distance of about 1000 mm. If the groundwater is located close to the surface, then the polluted water will not go well into the drainage, and such a well will soon turn into a fetid pit, as it will be constantly filled. In this case, as with clay soils, the drainage pit option will not work. You will either have to install a sealed container that requires periodic emptying, or organize water drainage to special surface filtration fields.

Having chosen the material for the construction of the pit, it is necessary to decide on several more important points of its arrangement, on which the efficiency of the system depends, the environmental safety of both the site itself and its inhabitants.

First of all, you need to decide on the place where the pit will be located.

• Quite often, owners have a drainage pit directly under the building, but this becomes possible only if:

- the pit is equipped before the construction itself;

- the building rises above the ground on a columnar or pile foundation, which will need to be well waterproofed;

- good ventilation should be provided under the bath building;

- the sewer pipe connecting the drain of the bath and the pit will require effective thermal insulation.

• If the pit is located separately, away from the bath, then it must be provided that it is at the required distance from sources of drinking water, natural reservoirs, residential and outbuildings, trees, the border of the site and the road passing near it. The required standards are shown in the diagram below:

• The pit should be located below the level of the drain hole in the floor of the bath, at least 150 ÷ ​​200 mm, and the recommended distance from the bath building is 3 ÷ 5 meters.

• If the drain pit has to be located close enough to the structure of the bath, then:

- the bottom of the pit should have a slope of 20 ÷ 25 degrees, diverting water from the walls of the building;

- perforation in the walls of the barrel, concrete rings or tires, must be done from the side that will be farther from the walls of the bath;

• It is very important to observe the correct slope of the sewer pipe so that dirty water does not stagnate inside the channel, but immediately goes into the drainage pit, there is no risk of freezing when using the bathhouse in winter. It is especially necessary to remember this in cases where it is decided to place the pit far enough from the bath. The amount of slope required depends on the selected pipe diameter - this is quite clearly indicated by the diagram below:

It should be noted that to organize the drainage of water from a small bath without a toilet, a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is usually sufficient. In order to maintain the desired slope, when digging a connecting trench, as well as when adding a sandy "cushion" into it, control the difference in its depth using the building level.

Arrangement of a drain drainage pit - step by step

In this section of the publication, two options for drain pits will be considered, which can be equipped independently.

conventional drainage pit

This version of the drainage pit has a design that can be made of various materials, which were discussed above.

Illustration
	After determining the location for the location of the drain pit, you can proceed to digging the pit. For a bath drainage well, a pit depth of 2500 ÷ 3000 mm will be sufficient. It can have a round or square shape in cross section - it will depend on the chosen material for arranging the walls. For example, if the pit is made out of brick, then it is more convenient to lay a square or rectangular shape out of it, but in some cases a round well also stands out from it. The diameter of the pit should be 150÷200 mm larger than the prepared container.
	When the pit is prepared, a trench is dug from it to the building of the bath at the right angle for laying the drainage pipe. The width of the trench can be 300 ÷ 500 mm, and the depth will depend on the level of soil freezing in the area where the bath is built, but not less than 500 mm at the entrance to the well.
	The bottom of the finished pit is covered with stone of the middle fraction - it is gravel, crushed stone, chipped brick or even broken slate. The drainage layer should be at least 300 mm, since it is designed to retain dirty water and clean it, that is, moisture must flow to the soil by capillary action, which will allow it to be quickly absorbed.
	Further, they act differently. You can immediately lay a sewer pipe, and then work on the brick walls of the water intake well, or first install or build a container, and in the course of its construction, a drainage pipe is inserted into one of the specially made holes. Most often, the pipe is laid at a time when the walls are brought out to the level of the depth of the trench, otherwise it will simply interfere with work.
	So, the walls of the drain well can be built of brick. Masonry is carried out in compliance with the clearance between adjacent bricks in a row of 40 ÷ 50 mm. The wall can have a thickness of half a brick or one brick - this parameter is chosen by the builder, and to a greater extent depends on the amount of prepared material. Having raised the walls of the well by another 200 ÷ 300 mm, the space between the soil walls and the brick walls is filled with drainage backfill.
	If concrete perforated rings are used to form the walls, then specialized equipment will have to be involved in their installation, since each of them has an impressive mass, and distortions should not be allowed during installation. After their installation, the distance between the soil and concrete must also be filled with drainage backfill. It should also be noted here that if concrete rings are used for the pit, then one should not rush to install the walls of the sewer pipe into the hole, since under their weight they can sink somewhat into the ground - it happens that by 100 ÷ 150 mm. Therefore, it is recommended that the finished concrete well be left alone for some time to shrink, otherwise the plastic pipe may crack or break from the pressure and stress that has arisen.
	When using metal barrels for the pit, the bottom and lid are cut off from them, and the side walls can simply be cut with the help of a grinder. The cuts are made at a distance from each other of 200÷250 mm horizontally and in increments of 100÷120 mm in height. If two barrels are used, they are placed one on top of the other. After installing the lower one, the free space around its walls is filled with drainage. After that, in the second of them, in the upper one, a hole is marked and cut out through which a drainage pipe will be installed in the barrel. A marking hole can be cut with a grinder, but an opening made with an electric jigsaw will still be more accurate. To do this, a hole is drilled at one of the points of the marked circle, into which the nail file of the tool should freely enter.
	If plastic barrels are prepared for the drain pit, then they are mounted in approximately the same way as metal ones, but quite often the drain pipe is connected through the top cover of the container. In a plastic barrel, the bottom can also be cut off or several round holes with a diameter of 100 ÷ 120 mm are cut into it.
	Holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled in the side walls along the entire perimeter of the polymer container with a frequency of 100 ÷ 150 mm horizontally and vertically. Around the barrel and under it, crushed stone or gravel is backfilled, into which, as in previous cases, water will flow from the holes of the barrel, be cleaned and go into the ground.
	The most commonly used and material for arranging the drainage well of the bath are car tires, which are stacked one on top of the other. On the inside, at the edges of the tires, in three or four places, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled, through which they are fastened together by means of, for example, plastic clamps-puffs. The sewer pipe can be brought between two tires. In this case, for emphasis, along the edges of the plastic pipe and in three or four more places between the tires at the place of its passage, bricks are installed that will remove the load from the plastic from the upper slopes.
	Another option for driving a pipe is to install it in a hole cut in the side wall of the tire. When choosing this method, it is necessary to foresee the possible shrinkage of the structure by cutting a hole larger than the pipe diameter by 70 ÷ 80 mm.
	Quite often, the drain bath pit is not filled with drainage material around the barrels or tires, but is filled with it by two-thirds - this allows water to slowly flow to the dirt walls and slowly soak into them.
	It is recommended to strengthen the top of the pit with brick walls by equipping a concrete platform with a hole for the hatch. To do this, a formwork is built around the well, into which a reinforcing grid is laid, and then it is poured concrete mortar, with a layer 70÷80 mm thick.
	After the concrete has hardened, a homemade cover made of steel sheet and angle. Factory-made hatches, metal or plastic, are also quite applicable.
	Special plastic sewer manholes can have various shapes and linear parameters. So, when planning to install this particular option, the hatch is purchased in advance, and the top cover of the drain pit is already equipped according to its size.
	A well made of concrete rings is usually covered with a special cover made of the same material with a ready-made hole for a plastic or cast-iron hatch.
	The walls of the well, built of tires or barrels, have less rigidity than brick or concrete, so it is best to strengthen them cement mortar mixed with rubble. If the drainage was filled up between the walls of the well and the soil, then its upper layer, standing 120 ÷ 150 mm, is recommended to be made from the solution mentioned above. Further, the top of the pit can be left in this state by simply installing a hatch on the hole, or you can equip a concrete platform above the structure with its subsequent backfilling.

Pit on the principle of a two-chamber septic tank with an output to the filtration field

The second option is more complex in design, but its functionality is much higher. This system is perfect for arranging in areas with groundwater close to the surface, since it does not require a deep pit. In addition, such a design can also be a solution for organizing drainage water from the foundation, from a storm well filled from linear storm water inlets on the site or their gutters on the eaves of the roof of the house.

To figure out how to cope with the arrangement of such a hydraulic structure, you should consider this process in detail.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	For this system, two plastic barrels are used, which are easy to prepare for installation work and connect to sewer pipes of the same material. Usually, two or three containers with a volume of 200 ÷ 250 liters are enough for a drain pit of a small bath.
	The pit for the installation of barrels is also dug 100 ÷ 150 mm larger than their diameter, and due to the fact that containers of equal size will be installed at different levels, the pit for them should have a stepped configuration. The depth of the pit in this system should be 450 ÷ 500 mm more than the height of the barrel. This distance will be needed to equip a drainage cushion under the barrel and a recess for the pipe entering it. The difference in the installation level of the tanks should be 150÷200 mm, and the distance between them varies between 200 and 300 mm. Barrels are installed in one line. The bottom of the pit is compacted and covered with rubble of medium fraction, with a layer 80 ÷ 100 mm thick, which also needs to be compacted.
	Next, you can proceed to work on the preparation of containers. The barrel installed above will serve as the primary chamber, that is, a sump for dirty water. A neat hole is cut in its top cover into which a drain pipe will be installed. In the side wall, on the opposite side from the hole in the lid, holes are cut for the pipe, which will connect the first barrel to the second one, installed somewhat lower. To insert plastic pipes into the lid or into the walls of the barrel, you can find special flanges in the plumbing store, such as the one shown in the illustration.
	If not, then you will have to cut a hole with maximum accuracy, and then for sealing - do not spare high-quality silicone sealant.
	Additionally, it is recommended to cut a hole for installing a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 40 ÷ 50 mm, or install a tee, as shown in the illustration, where one outlet will be designed to connect the sewer drain pipe from the bath, and the other, vertical, for the ventilation pipe.
	The second barrel is equipped with three holes, one of which is drilled in the top cover, and two - in the side wall, below the top edge by 100÷120 mm. The axes of these side windows must be turned radially from the axis of the central hole by 45 degrees.
	Branch pipes with 45-degree bends installed on them are cut into the side holes and sealed. As a result, the pipes for connecting the drainage pipes will become parallel to each other - as shown in the illustration.
	Additionally, in the lower part of the walls of the second barrel being installed, on the opposite side of the entrance, small holes are drilled, 5 mm in diameter, at a distance of 150 ÷ ​​170 mm from each other. This is an additional outlet of water to the drainage backfill around the barrel. However, if powerful filter fields will certainly cope with their task, and even more so if such a septic tank has to be installed in the immediate vicinity of the bath, then this operation is not mandatory.
	The result should be such a design, as shown in the illustration. Having mounted a system of barrels and nozzles, you can proceed to the creation of a filtration drainage field.
	For the drainage platform, which is located at a slope from the installed barrels, a trench is dug, having a width of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm and the same depth to which the first barrel above is buried. If desired, the drainage filter field can be stretched over the entire area, as it will not interfere with the arrangement of beds for annual crops or for planting shrubs above it. A geotextile sheet is laid on the bottom of the resulting channel, on top of which drainage will be laid. Backfilling the trench with crushed stone is done in layers, each of which should be carefully tamped and distributed under a slope along pre-set pegs. The slope of the trench should be approximately 25 mm per running meter. The pegs pre-installed with the necessary difference in height will become a kind of beacons for the correct backfilling of the drainage layer.
	As the drainage material falls asleep around the lower barrel, water is poured into it, otherwise the external pressure of the soil can deform it. It is recommended to fill the space between the walls of the barrels with gravel or coarse sand, which should be compacted by spilling water. Further, pipes with perforated walls are connected to the nozzles, through which water will be distributed throughout drainage site. Holes are drilled in increments of 150÷180 mm along the bottom and sides of the pipes. Pipes after drilling are dressed in a filter "casing" made of geotextile - so that the inside of the pipes is not subjected to silting.
	The next step of the pipe and the entire space of the trench is covered with crushed stone of the middle fraction mixed with sand. Such a layer should reach the lid of the barrel installed below, that is, completely cover the pipes from above with a layer of at least 100 ÷ 120 mm. On top of the rubble, it is best to backfill several different layers of soil. So, crushed stone is first covered with geotextile, on which a layer of moistened sand 70 ÷ 80 mm thick is laid, and the rest of the space can be filled with fertile soil. On this site, it is quite possible to equip a flower bed, plant annual vegetable crops or even small shrubs with a shallow fibrous root system.

At the end of the publication, it should be noted that there are other materials that can sometimes be found in the yard among old stocks or even seemingly unnecessary trash, which in fact may well be suitable for building a drain pit for a bath. For example, you can find a use for old sheets of wave or smooth slate, or even trimmings of corrugated board left after roofing work.

Some resourceful owners of country houses lay out the walls of the drainage well with glass or plastic bottles that are filled with sand, others find very interesting solutions. Therefore, if there is a desire to save money, and at the same time free up part of the yard or sheds from old materials, then you need to turn on the fantasy “to the fullest” - and act! We will be glad if any creative master share their innovations on the pages of our portal.

Another example of a simple drain for a bath is shown in the video below.

Video: How to make a drain for a bath yourself, at minimal cost

Many owners of private houses want to have a good Russian bathhouse on their site. But before proceeding with its construction, it is necessary to carefully consider and competently organize the drainage system. Currently, there are several ways to remove waste water from a bath that do not require large financial investments and supply to the general city sewer system. Well made plumbing washing bath will help ensure a long service life of floors and foundations, as well as prevent the appearance of mold and fungi on the walls.

Drainage device in the washing room at the bath

Drainage in the bath can be carried out different ways, which depend on the type of floors in the washing room of the bath. There are wooden leaking and non-leaking, as well as concrete. For the first case, it is necessary to arrange a special reservoir for the flow of water, from which it will be poured into the sewer. And for the second option, the floor is laid in the bath with a slope, and special gutters and ladders for the drain are mounted. Any drainage system in the bath should be arranged before laying the floors.

When choosing the creation of an external sewage bath, it is necessary to take into account factors such as:

• The intensity of the operation of the bath;
• building dimensions;
• Soil type and depth of its freezing;
• Sewer system (its presence or absence);
• Is it possible to connect to the central system.

The above aspects are among the most important in determining the drainage.

For a small bathhouse, where one or two people will bathe several times a month, you should not make a complicated sewer. It will be enough to dig an ordinary drain hole or a small pit under the bath.

The type of soil is of great importance when creating a drainage system. For sandy soils that absorb water well, it is recommended to make a drainage well. In clay soils, it is better to equip a drain pit, from which drains will need to be periodically pumped out. It is also necessary to take into account the degree of freezing of the earth, since the water in the pipes that will be laid above the required mark will simply freeze and the plastic will crack.

If you do not want the water from the bath to simply flow out and soak into the ground, you must use a septic tank with a sump, where the drains will settle and be cleaned, and then distributed through irrigation pipes. The most complex and expensive way to remove water is to build a well with biological filters, which consist of slag, broken bricks and rubble. The peculiarity of this method is that when waste water enters the well, its walls are gradually covered with a layer of silt, in which microorganisms that purify water live.

Advantages and disadvantages of each external drainage system in the bath

Consider different types drainage, as well as their characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

This is a sealed pit made of reinforced concrete, in which water from the bath accumulates. When it is full, it is pumped out using a special device.

Advantages:

• The simplicity of the device;
• Does not require maintenance;
• Low cost.

Flaws:

Drainage well

Such a water drainage system is a pit with a filtrate that cleans waste water. The filter can be sand, broken brick, crushed stone, slag, etc.

Advantages:

• Low cost;
• Ease of construction.

The disadvantage of the system is the regular replacement of the filtrate or its cleaning. And this procedure requires a lot of physical effort.

Pit

Such a system consists of a hole that is dug immediately under the floor of the washing room. At the bottom of the pit there is a natural filtrate, which passes through itself wastewater, which gradually drains into the depths of the soil.

Advantages:

• There is no need to run a pipeline;
• Low cost device.

Flaw:

This is a system that consists of a septic tank and pipes emanating from it, which remove water purified from impurities. Drainage systems are installed at a certain slope so that the water quickly leaves and is completely absorbed into the ground.

Advantages:

• Works offline;
• It can be used to create a sewerage system with several points for receiving waste water;
• It can even clean "black" drains if an anaerobic septic tank is installed.

Flaws:

Alternatively, you can connect to the central sewer. Then there will be no need to arrange external facilities for the reception and processing of waste effluents. But here you have to pay for the services of specialists and draw up various permits.

The internal drainage system of the bath

The washing room inside the bath is equipped taking into account the future drain and the selected floors. Drainage must be carried out in such a way that moisture does not remain in the room, which will contribute to the development of fungi and mold.

1. Leaking wood floors are the most widely used, as they are the most simple option bath drains. The boards are laid with gaps of about 3-4 mm, so that through the cracks the water from the washing room goes into the pit unhindered. Such floors are collapsible so that high-quality drying of the boards can be carried out. In this case, the floor is arranged without a slope for draining, since water will soak into the ground under the bath.
2. Non-leaking floors are arranged with an angle of inclination to the drain, through which the waste water will flow into the water collector, and then into the sewer. Also, water can drain into any selected drainage system.
3. Concrete floors are easy to care for, durable and reliable, so they are perfect for arranging a washing room in a bath. Such floors are also made with a slope towards the drain, so that water can quickly and freely go into the selected sewer system.

Preparation for the construction of a drainage system: drawings and diagrams of various drains

Scheme of the device of a wooden leaking floor with a drain. Must be done before laying floors.

If a dry steam room is provided in the bath, and there is a shower in the washing room, then it is necessary to provide for a drain in the steam room.

In the sewerage of the bath, where water will be collected from several rooms, it is imperative to install a riser with a ventilation valve.

If the steam room and the washing room are in different rooms, then the gutter for draining water is laid under the ceiling between them.

Under the wooden floor, it is necessary to make a concrete base with a slope to the central part, where the gutter will go, joining the sewer.

Also, instead of concrete, you can lay a pallet made of stainless or galvanized steel on the floor under the flooring.

Video: device for a galvanized pan for draining water under the wooden floor of the bath

When installing self-leveling floors on which tiles will be laid, it is necessary to observe the slope, where a ladder is installed at the lowest point to receive water, which is connected to the sewer.

• For the installation of a sewer system inside the bath, it is necessary to use modern, durable plastic pipes that have a long service life, and therefore will serve for many years. They are not afraid of moisture, are not subject to corrosion, like ordinary metal or cast iron ones, and are also easily and simply assembled on their own without the involvement of specialists. PVC pipes are great for the device internal sewerage in the bath, malleable in any processing, and can also be with or without a socket. Service life more than 50 years.
• Cast iron pipes are too expensive, heavy, and also inconvenient to work with.
• Asbestos-cement pipes are the cheapest, but they often have many defects. Also, for the installation of a non-pressure drain, pipes with a smooth inner wall surface are required, and asbestos cement products often have rough inner walls with recesses.

Types of plastic pipes:

• PVC pipes (polyvinyl chloride);
• PVCH (pipes made of chlorinated polyvinyl chloride);
• PP (polypropylene products);
• HDPE (pipes made of low pressure polyethylene);
• Corrugated polyethylene pipes.

Any of the above types of pipes can be used for an internal drain in a bath. The diameter of the product for the main line is taken based on the future intensity of operation of the bath and the number of drain points. For an ordinary bath with a steam room, a washing room and a toilet, pipes with a diameter of 10–11 cm are recommended. If plumbing is not installed, then pipes with a diameter of 5 cm will be enough to drain water.

Calculation of material for creating a drainage system and tools

For the installation of internal sewerage in the washing room, we will need PVC pipes gray, as well as joints and adapters.

• The number of pipes depends on the length of the internal drain system.
• We will also need tees with a size and an angle of 110–110–90 ° - two pieces (highlighted in red in the diagram);
• Elbow adapter - 90° - three pieces (highlighted in black in the diagram).
• Horizontal sewer pipes - Ø11 cm;
• Vertical pipes for the device of water drain receivers - Ø11 or 5 cm.
• To connect pipes of different diameters, you will need adapters from 5 to 11 cm.
• For the external sewerage of the bath you will need pipes orange color(PVC).

For work we need:

• Spade bayonet (special equipment);
• Building level;
• Bulgarian with a cutting wheel;
• Sand;
• Cement;
• Rubble.

Step-by-step instructions with a photo for the manufacture of various drain designs in the bath

Before considering the drain system in the washing room, it must be said that the entire sewer internal system in the bath is interconnected and consists of three waste water receivers.

The trapik for the drain is a siphon, which has a water seal that does not let unpleasant odors into the washing room, and it also serves as a grate that does not let large debris into the sewer.

In the photo we can see the slope of the tiled floor to the drain for the drain.

A drain drain must be installed in the bath rooms.

Video: trapika functioning system with a water seal in the washing room of the bath

1. First, we will lay the sewer pipes. To do this, we dig trenches.
2. At points A and B, the depth of the trench should be approximately 50-60 centimeters in relation to the ground level (outside the foundation). If the height of the base is 30-40 centimeters, then the depth of the trench will be 80-100 cm in relation to the top of the foundation.
3. From points A and B, we gradually dig ditches so that the slope is about 2 centimeters per 1 linear meter. We pour sand about 5-10 cm thick at the bottom of the trench and tamp it well, observing the necessary slope.
4. We fill the foundation and make a hole for the sewer pipe.
5. Drain pipes are installed vertically (1 and 2 for traps). To do this, we drive sticks about 1 meter long into the bottom of the trench, and then we tie plums to them. We install vertical pipes, making a small margin of length. In the process of installing the floor and installing the ladders, we will shorten them.
6. We install the sewerage system according to the specified scheme.

In the construction industry, the depth of laying sewer pipes in the southern regions is about 70 cm from the ground surface. AT middle lane the depth varies from 90 to 120 cm, and in the north it is at least 150–180 cm.

In order for the drains not to freeze, the tubes must be insulated with several layers of special 10 mm polyethylene foam.

Under one end of the pipe we dig a shallow hole for a drain. Now we need to try to drain a certain amount of water in order to check the correctness of the slope of the pipe. We check all the pipes one by one.

We make an external sewerage system with our own hands

If the volume of waste water does not exceed 700 liters. per week, then we can use old truck wheels as a septic tank. We can calculate the water absorption area of ​​​​a septic tank, given that the degree of water absorption of 1 sq / m of sandy soil is about 100 l / day, mixed sandy loam about 50 l / day, loamy soil about 20 l / day. Depending on the type of soil and its water absorption, we calculate how many wheels we need.

1. We dig a hole 2x2 meters and a depth of about 2.3 - 2.5 meters, depending on the level at which the pipe will exit. We fill the bottom with sand 10–15 cm, and rubble on top - 10–15 cm.
2. In the pit, we tightly stack the wheels vertically on top of each other about 5-7 pieces. The top point should turn out so that the drain pipe can definitely enter it.
3. In loamy soil, it will be enough to install 7 wheels. If the site has sandy or sandy soil, then 5 pieces are enough.
4. We cover the wheels with a metal or plastic durable cover with a hole made in it. We insert a ventilation pipe into it, through which air will flow, ensuring the vital activity of microorganisms that process wastewater.
5. We carry out a test drain and bury the entire structure.

How to make a drain well for drainage: a guide

The drain pit can be made of a plastic or metal tank, reinforced concrete rings or red brick.

1. We choose a place in the lowest place of the site so that the water from the washing room leaves by gravity. In order to make it convenient to pump water out of the well and the car could drive up to it freely, you need to choose a place with a convenient entrance.
2. Digging a hole with an excavator. If there is no equipment, then you will have to dig manually, and this is a lengthy process. We monitor the condition of the walls of the pit (they should not crumble). We can dig a hole in a square, rectangular or round shape.
3. We make the bottom with a slight slope to the hatch for easy cleaning of the tank. We fill up the sand 15 cm and concrete the bottom. Instead of concreting, you can simply lay a reinforced concrete slab of the desired shape and size.
4. We lay out the brick walls. You can take a used red brick. For masonry, we make a solution of clay and sand. In one of the walls during the masonry process, we install an inlet pipe for water.
5. Since brick walls are waterproof, we need to treat them with a special sealant. To do this, take bituminous mastic or other similar material.
6. We mount the ceiling from reinforced concrete slab. The upper part of the well should be blocked on all sides by about 30 cm. To pump out water, we make a hole above the pit section where the slope is located. Overlapping is arranged in several steps. First, we make formwork from boards and pour a concrete layer of 5–7 cm. We put reinforcement on top and pour the next layer of mortar. Let the concrete dry for a few days.
7. We put a metal hatch, and concrete floor cover with polyethylene and fill with soil, so that only the hatch is visible on the surface.

How to place a drainage system with a pit

1. Under the floor of the washing room we dig a hole 2x2 meters and a depth of at least 1 meter. At a height of 10-15 centimeters from the floor level, we install a pipe that will connect the pit with outdoor system sewerage. We observe a slope of 1 centimeter per 1 linear meter.
2. At the bottom we put a layer of gravel, broken brick, gravel or expanded clay, and pour a layer of sand on top. We strengthen the walls with brick, large-wave slate or natural stone.
3. On top of the pit, we lay logs, and we already mount a wooden floor on them.
4. So that the waste water can easily go straight into the pit, the boards are laid at a distance from each other. Such a wooden floor can not be attached to the logs so that it can be easily removed and dried.

The second version of the pit device is a water collector, from which effluents will be poured into a septic tank or sewer when a certain mark is reached. Basically, this method of drainage is used when arranging leaking floors.

How to install a ground filter for a bath

For the device of such a system, a separate septic tank will be required, which will serve as a sump and distribution well. Drainage pipes will depart from it in different directions, designed to distribute treated effluents around the entire perimeter of the yard. You can buy a septic tank, or you can make it yourself from large plastic or metal containers.

A reinforced concrete septic tank or a round brickwork structure functions perfectly.

Drainage system rules:

• The length of the pipe should be no more than 25 meters;
• Laying depth of at least 1.5 meters;
• The distance between the pipes is not less than 1.5 meters;
• The width of the trench for drainage is at least 50 cm, maximum 1 meter.

1. We dig a trench, taking into account the angle of inclination of about 1.5 °. We check the angle with the usual building level.
2. We pour 10 cm of sand at the bottom of the clay soil trench and 10 cm of gravel on top. In loamy soils, the pipe will need to be wrapped with filter material to prevent silting. On sandy soil we make a sand and crushed stone pillow, and we wrap the pipes with geotextiles.
3. Pour 10 cm gravel on top of the drainage, and then fill the ditch with earth.
4. The filtration system must be ventilated, so at the end of the drainage pipe we install a pipe about 50 cm high, and put a safety valve on top.

Video: how to bring the drain system to the bath

Properly made drain in the washing room of the bath and its other premises guarantees a long service life of this facility. It will help protect the building from the harmful effects of moisture and prevent pollution of the territory by waste water. Even in small baths, it is necessary to equip a drainage system, so to this process must be approached with full seriousness and responsibility.