When arranging engineering networks of any kind, you need to find compromises that will allow you to create a really working communication, and at the same time not spend a lot of money. This also applies to the issue of the depth of the sewer system, here it is worth considering not only the depth of freezing of the earth, but also the price of earthworks.

Creating the outer part of the sewer, use a closed or open way. V open version the pipe is placed directly on the ground (after preparing the drainage from the sand). In the closed one, special “covers” made of reinforced concrete are used.

It is clear that with the help of such protection for pipes, their service life is also extended. A kind of covers help protect the pipeline from earth pressure, but you will have to pay well for them.

If the issue of cost savings comes first, then experts recommend making narrow trenches, this will also increase the protection of pipes. You can also protect the materials with the help of special spacers between the edges of the ditch. Such parts are made of wood or metal, and are installed every 0.5 - 1 meter.

What depth is needed

Today, the process of arranging sewer systems is constantly being improved. The methods of work that were used 20 years ago are now considered obsolete. So, if earlier small booths on the street were used as a toilet, today this no longer suits anyone. When there is no desire or time to do all the amenities yourself, you can use the service of special companies that will do everything quickly and efficiently. And if it's important not to spend a large amount money, then you can arrange everything on your own. most practical and simple option a septic tank will be installed.

Such a container is mounted in a special pit on the site. The distance from the septic tank to the dwelling should be at least 5 meters. As for the depth, here an indicator of 1.5 meters is considered optimal. So that the septic tank is not damaged by ground pressure or from the effects of groundwater, special concrete sarcophagi are also made.

Given the installation depth of the septic tank, it is also possible to determine the depth for the installation of the pipeline. It must be remembered that the pipe section from housing to the septic tank should be almost even, without any bends and turns.

Pipes are installed slightly above the freezing index of the earth, but in general, the depth should not be more than 80 centimeters. The best option there will be a depth of 50 cm. According to this principle, pipes are laid in places where there are no roads or other areas that are cleared of snow.

How to determine the depth of the pipeline in a private house

The following points must be taken into account:

• Pipe dimensions;
• Pipe slope (according to standards, it is 2-3 cm per linear meter of pipes);
• Applied materials.

If the decision was made to use country house septic tank, then the depth should also be calculated taking into account the characteristics of the terrain, and taking into account the exit point of the system from the housing to the pit with a septic tank.

A mandatory point is the correct determination of the slope of the pipes. If you miss this process, then the drains will leave the house with difficulty, and frequent blockages are also possible.

Inside the building, bends, bends and various connection points can be used, but in the external pipeline, all these elements should be used only in case of emergency.

Why is depth so important?

There are many different things related to this issue. So, if the pipes are installed at the level of soil freezing, then the wastewater will begin to cool, this will lead to blockages and subsequent failures in the sewer system. In such situations, you often have to “endure” up to positive temperatures, and do without drainage all winter. A small number of diverse compounds will also positively affect the operation of the sewer system. So, if you avoid turns in the external system, then in the future there will be no need to dismantle and clean the pipes.

When turns are still necessary, then at these points it is better to install a special well so that there is always easy access to the problem area of ​​the pipeline. Such a simple solution will allow you to regularly check the sewers, and, if necessary, clean the pipes.

An important point is also an indicator of the depth of freezing of pipes. To calculate it correctly, you need to take into account regional features. There are even special soil freezing maps that will help solve this issue.

climate factor

The fact that the laying of the pipeline should be carried out taking into account the depth of freezing is understandable, but how to determine this indicator? In this case, you need to use the regulatory standards (SNiP 2.01.01.82). Thanks to this document, you can get acquainted with a map of certain areas with indicators of soil freezing. So, in the Moscow region, this figure will be around 1.4 m, and in a warm region near Sochi, soils freeze at a distance of 80 cm from the ground.

Also, SNiP recommends that when using pipes with a cross section not exceeding 500 mm from the indicator of the climatic features of the area, it is necessary to subtract 0.3 m. If pipes of significant diameters are used in the work, then the laying depth must be reduced by 50 cm.

An example will help you better understand the issue. When pipes with a diameter of 200 mm are installed in one of the regions of the Moscow region, then taking into account the standards of SNiP, the depth should be 110 cm (140-30). But such calculations are accurate mainly during construction. large rooms, and small country houses are equipped with a different approach.

Features of the construction of a country house is that here the sewage system should work by gravity. An important point will be the observance of the slope angles of the pipes, because if this is not done, then problems cannot be avoided, especially with a long pipeline.

So, if we take for example the same house in the Moscow region with a pipe laying depth of 110 cm, and a septic tank, which is located 20 meters from the house, then the calculations will be as follows. Subject to the recommendations of the slope (2-3 centimeters per linear meter), this figure will be at least 40 centimeters. And this means that the hole for the pipe in the septic tank should be at a distance of 1.5 meters from the surface of the earth. This is taking into account the fact that the suburban area will be perfectly flat, but this is almost unrealistic, so you will also have to take into account the height difference indicator.

If the septic tank is equipped with concrete rings (3 pieces), then its depth should be approximately 2.7 meters ( standard size rings 90 cm). In this case, the useful depth indicator will be half as much (2.7 m - 1.5), i.e. 1.2 m., which is less than one and a half rings.

Application of biological treatment plant

When instead of a septic tank the owner of the house decides to use the station biological treatment, then the depth level will also be 1.5 m. This means that difficult excavation for digging a pit, and it will also be necessary to spend large sums of money on the installation of revision wells, which are needed to maintain modern systems.

All these points will greatly affect the total cost of arranging the sewer system, and at the same time will not bring the desired effect. V country houses there is no such strong load on the pipeline.

There are three more factors that indicate the futility of this lesson:

1. In residential areas, the temperature of wastewater is kept at room level, so frost in the pipeline is removed independently;
2. If people do not live in the house permanently, but only periodically, then at moments of downtime there will simply be nothing to freeze;
3. During wastewater treatment, heat is also emitted from the septic tank or other system, which allows you to defrost the ice.

Therefore, laying pipes at great depths is not necessary, especially since it will also result in a round sum. For the middle part of the system, the recommended depth indicator is 50-70 cm, and then you need to install pipes, taking into account the required slope.

If it is possible to connect your system to a central sewer, then the main point in determining the depth will be the location of the connection point. When pipes are laid below such a point, the performance of the entire system will be in question, because gravity in such cases is impossible.

How to solve the problem with gravity

Today, experts offer two ways to help solve this issue:

• Installation of fecal pumps. Such equipment is used in places that are previously below the level central system. At this point, it must be borne in mind that the sewer system will now be dependent on electricity, which brings a lot of inconvenience in areas remote from cities, where the supply of electricity can hardly be called uninterrupted;
• Warm up the system. To equip a gravity sewer system at shallow depths, you need to apply closed version installation. This will require special trays. Pipes need to be wrapped in special insulating materials or heating elements are installed, this will prevent the sewage from freezing.

If an open method is used for pipe installation and insulation is used, then a layer of special material must be waterproofed. If the insulation gets wet, it will quickly lose its ability to maintain the required temperature.

Thermal insulation and heating cables also need to be installed in areas where the weather is very severe in winter. In some places, the level of soil freezing can be up to 10 meters. Of course, it is not necessary to dig pits of such depth; it is better to take care of the thermal insulation of the pipeline.

Pipe strength

When determining the depth of the pipeline, one cannot pass by such an indicator as the strength of the materials used. Now the most popular option for arranging the outer part of the sewerage are PVC pipes.

When choosing pipes for your sewer system, you need to carefully study all the requirements and recommendations of manufacturers. On the street, it is necessary to install pipes with high strength characteristics and the ability to work in an aggressive environment. For internal sewerage, the requirements are not so strict.

If the pipes are installed at great depths or the road is located at the top, then only closed way installations and the pipes themselves must be very durable. Two-layer corrugated products based on polyethylene are perfect.

Pipes are most often installed on the street orange color, they will be clearly visible in the ground. In the production of such materials, various additives are added to the plastic to increase the strength of the products. This allows the pipes to withstand loads of varying degrees. These materials are intended for installation at a depth of up to 3 meters.

Inside the room, there is no question of depth, but there are also a few tips that will help you do everything. in the best way. The inside of the sewer can be equipped with different branches, knees and sharp turns, but it’s better to simplify the sewer system as much as possible, this will give several advantages at once:

• It will be possible to save money when buying materials and when installing pipes;
• The simplest sewage system will work as well as possible.

Sewerage inside the premises must be done so that the wastewater leaves smoothly. When drainage is done indoors on the 1st floor, it is better to hide the pipes under the floor. Also, according to this method, the system is mounted in two-story houses.

When there is a significant difference in height between the inside of the sewer and the outside, special elbows must be used to connect the pipeline. At the same time, do not forget about the 30-degree elbow, it will ensure a smooth drainage of wastewater, which will prevent damage to the pipes.

Earthworks during the construction of an external system

Today, when building a country house, both machine work and manual work are used. It is much easier to perform this kind of work using special equipment. In such situations, the dimensions of the trench depend on the diameter of the materials and the level of the slope. When using pipes of 110 mm, the width indicator should be around 600 mm. Also at the same time, the required depth indicator is also determined.

When the site is heavily built up and there is no access to special equipment, then all earthworks will have to be done by hand. At the same time, the dimensions of the trench are the same as in the first case with special equipment. In depth, you need to dig a hole 5 centimeters more than the required level of installation of the pipeline, because you need to leave some space for the sandy layer.

How to install pipes outdoors

To install the outer part of the sewer, you need to perform work in several stages:

• First, it is necessary to cover the bottom of the excavated trench with 50 mm sand, and then compact the base;
• Next prepare necessary materials(pipes, seals, fittings, etc.);
• You need to start the installation of pipes from the foundation of the building. In most cases, a special conclusion for the pipeline is made even during the construction of the foundation. If you were not lucky enough to calculate this even during construction, then diamond drilling is used for this purpose;
• For a good indicator density and strength of the pipes, silicone grease should be used. To do this, silicone is applied to the smooth end of the material and all this is inserted into the socket with a sealing cuff;

• When the pipeline system needs to be rotated, soft bends (special fittings) are used, they perform the function of collecting the external network;
• With a long system (from 10 meters), special wells are needed on the turns, they will allow you to check and clean the pipes in a timely manner;
• After assembling the piping system, you need to check if the angle of inclination is set correctly and fill the pipes with sand. Before backfilling, you can also make a small check by letting water into the sewer. If there are no leaks, then you can fall asleep and proceed to the next stages of work;
• Only the sand that will be on both sides of the pipe needs to be rammed; nothing needs to be touched above the pipes themselves;
• The layer of sand above the pipes should be at least 15 centimeters. After that, and to the very top, the trench is covered with soil. By the way, it needs to be poured with a slide, because subsidence will occur over a certain time.

Video

Any private house must have its own sewer distribution inside the building and a system for removing dirty wastewater, which directs flows into a centralized sewer pipe or into an autonomous septic tank. Do-it-yourself sewerage is being installed in a private house, and many schemes have been developed for its implementation, so your task is to choose correct device do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house, purchase building materials and prepare a tool. Correct calculations of the sewer line will help minimize the cost of building materials, make the sewer more efficient and durable. And how to mount the sewer correctly, read on.

Where to place the sewer in the yard

Sewerage for a private house is being installed according to established standards and regulations, internal sewerage should be operated for a long time, without overhauls and frequent preventive maintenance. In the house, the internal sewerage is designed to combine pipes and plumbing equipment- baths, showers, sinks, as well as for the removal of sewage, which inevitably appear in everyday life.

Even self-assembly sewerage in a private house must adhere to the norms of SNiP and be carried out according to the plan drawn up before assembling the main line and its components. But the main part of the sewer autonomous system- device sewer septic tank or cesspool into which sewage will enter.

The main standards for arranging a homemade cesspool in the yard:

1. The distance to the residential building is ≥ 5-12 m. But with an increase in this parameter, it will be more difficult to observe the slope angle of the sewer line.
2. The distance from the outbuildings to the sump is ≥ 1 m.
3. Distance from the fence of the neighboring area ≥ 2-4 m.
4. Distance from green spaces ≥ 3-4 m.
5. From sources drinking water a cesspool or septic tank should be equipped 30 meters or more.
6. The depth of the sump depends not only on the volume of sewage wastewater, but also on the depth of groundwater flow. In this case, the pit should not, according to SNiP, be deeper than 3 m.

The depth of storage of the main volume of sewage sewage must be calculated in such a way that the reservoir is dug below the level of soil freezing in a given geographical region. Before you properly make a septic tank, you should follow the rule: the container or pit should be filled no more than 30-35 cm from the manhole cover.

Solutions for the arrangement of external sewerage

Which treatment systems to install directly depends on the desire and capabilities of the owner. There are the following types of sewer systems:

1. An industrial septic tank is a device that allows you to collect and process wastewater supplied by the internal sewerage of a house into clean industrial water and biological fertilizers. In septic tanks, dirty water is settled and cleaned by biobacteria and microorganisms that multiply with organic waste.
2. Biotreatment with a special cleaning station, which has a high performance and high cleaning efficiency. The system is not autonomous, it depends on electricity, an expensive pleasure.
3. A dry closet is a solution that provides storage of small volumes of sewage. For service country house or a country house, a dry closet is not suitable, as it is able to process and store only fecal waste from human life.
4. The cesspool is a traditional and reliable option, it has been used for centuries. In conditions modern construction and developments for wastewater treatment, the cesspool is being equipped less and less. In addition, a large pit is more difficult to equip and maintain manually.

It is realistic to make a sewer in a private house on your own for all of the above options, except for the installation of a cleaning station, which will require the help of professionals and correct calculations.

Homemade cesspool on the site

Read more about how sewerage is arranged using a cesspool. To equip a cesspool, it is necessary to dig a large hole - a sewer pipe from the house is connected to it - drains from a toilet, bath, kitchen, etc. If the soil in the yard is loose or sandy, then it is recommended to overlay the walls of the pit with bricks or pour concrete in the shape of the formwork.

The advantages of this solution are low cost of work and building materials, simple installation and reliable design.

The disadvantages that a home-made sewage system has in a private house with a cesspool:

1. It is necessary to constantly remove accumulated solid waste from the pit. Since the walls of the pit silt over time, it will also be necessary to pump out liquid effluents.
2. An unpleasant smell in the area in case of poor sealing or its complete absence.
3. Since the water will eventually soak the soil around the pit, the site will become contaminated.
4. If the methodology for arranging a cesspool is violated, pipes can freeze in winter or become clogged at any time of the year.

sealed tank

A cesspool can be made with your own hands, according to the principle of a sealed tank, as in a septic tank. The tank can be used metal or plastic, but before you make a sewer, you should correctly calculate the capacity of the tank. The calculations will be given below. It is only necessary to remember that the metal container quickly rusts, so it must be carefully protected with anti-corrosion substances.

The plastic tank has more advantages:

1. No need for waterproofing and anti-corrosion coating, the container does not react with aggressive substances in wastewater.
2. The plastic tank is initially sealed.
3. The small weight of the tank is the ability to mount it yourself, without renting an excavator and a crane.
4. Dimensions and shape of tanks - in a wide range.

There is only one drawback - the high price of the product.

Plastic or reinforced concrete septic tank with one chamber

One chamber contains a small amount of waste - about 1 m 3 for a family of 2-3 people. The calculation of the volume is simple - the daily water consumption per tenant will be approximately 200 liters. This means that for 2-3 people, the water consumption per day will be 600 liters, but taking into account the reserve, a volume of 1000 liters is taken to prevent overflow of the tank. This solution will work reliably if you do not increase the number of residents and consumed water. Structurally, the sewerage in a house with a single-chamber waste tank is the sewerage wiring in a private house according to the scheme below, and the settled water from the chamber is discharged into the ground or pumped out for the needs of the household. To improve the quality of wastewater treatment, bioadditives in the form of breeding bacteria that destroy organic matter can be added to the tank.

Design advantages:

1. Low cost and easy installation without the involvement of special equipment.
2. Independent performance of all work operations for the installation and connection of the septic tank chamber to the house sewer.
3. Environmentally friendly and tight - no unpleasant odors from the septic.
4. Both the reinforced concrete tank and the plastic chamber do not react with aggressive substances in wastewater.
5. Long term maintenance-free operation of the tank.

A single-chamber septic tank works as follows: drains from the house move through plastic pipes towards the septic tank chamber, where solid debris settles to the bottom of the tank. From the chamber, the effluents enter the soil, where they are additionally purified by means of natural filtration.

Autonomous septic tank with two tanks

This is a more voluminous sewer for a private house - how to install it correctly? For this, a sewerage scheme for a private one-story house, which operates a septic tank with two tanks.

1. The first tank in this scheme is designed to allow dirty water to settle and be cleaned. Solid debris remains at the bottom, upper layer liquids in the chamber are purified water, fats and household chemicals.
2. The second tank is designed for re-treatment of wastewater. In it, the lower layer is fats and chemical substances. The water in the second chamber is further purified by approximately 60-65%.

When the second chamber overflows, water begins to overflow into the ground. This allowable rate, since after cleaning in the second chamber, the water has regulatory indicators for environmental friendliness. Autonomous sewerage in a private house, the scheme of which is given above, provides a higher degree of wastewater treatment and the safety of people living in the house. This scheme works great in a house with 5-8 residents living in it.

Advantages of a two-chamber septic tank:

1. Cleaner water output.
2. Tanks do not corrode.
3. The service life of such a cleaning scheme is ≥ 50 years.
4. You can assemble and run a septic tank with two cleaning chambers yourself.

Flaw:

Need periodic and regular cleaning of the walls of the chambers from silting. When carrying out such an operation, it is not recommended to remove all the sludge, since it contains biobacteria that decompose organic matter.

Biofiltration septic tank

Self-installation of sewage in a private house may involve the use of a biofilter. This is a tank with expanded clay, which is inherently inert. Expanded clay acts as a biological filter for wastewater treatment:

1. Drains alternately flow through the chambers, where they are cleaned, after which they enter the biofilter, covered with expanded clay.
2. Aerobacteria in the biofilter decompose and oxidize the organic matter present in the wastewater.
3. After complete cleaning, process water enters the drainage system.

Advantages:

1. High level of cleaning, reduction drainage field and work autonomy.
2. Dirt, debris, grease and chemicals are almost all removed. As a result, the output is clean industrial water, suitable for irrigation or other household work in the yard.

Flaws:

1. Constant addition of biobacteria, high construction cost.
2. The need to clean the biological filter and pump out excess wastewater with sewage equipment.

The cost of self-arrangement of sewerage in your home

The cost of plastic tanks is available to any owner of a private household:

Product marking	Price in rubles at the beginning of 2019
Plastic pipe 50 cm, ⌀110 mm	100
Pipe plastic 100 cm, ⌀ 110 mm	190
Pipe plastic 200 cm, ⌀ 110 mm	350
Plastic pipe 300 cm, ⌀ 110 mm	500
Plastic pipe 400 cm, ⌀ 110 mm	690
Plastic pipe 600 cm, ⌀ 110 mm	1000
Plastic pipe 15 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	40
Plastic pipe 50 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	50
Pipe plastic 100 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	60
Plastic pipe 150 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	90
Plastic pipe 200 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	100
Plastic pipe 300 cm, ⌀ 50 mm	140
Clamp ⌀ 110 mm	45
Clamp ⌀ 50 mm	30
Elbow ⌀ 110/450 mm	110
Elbow ⌀ 50/450 mm	30
Tee ⌀ 110 mm	200
Tee ⌀ 50 mm	40
Plug ⌀ 110 mm	80

When compared with pipes and steel elements, then plastic products simpler and easier to install.

1. When purchasing PVC pipes and parts, you should check for the presence of a rubber gasket in the sockets.
2. Do not connect the exhaust pipe to the ventilation system.
3. If the internal sewerage is installed according to the standard scheme (one bathroom, sink and sink, washing machine, shower), then there is no need to equip a fan pipe.
Autonomous sewerage-septic tank for a private house

All decisions on the assembly of the sewerage system must be thought out, calculations made and the scheme reflected on paper. Therefore, when laying sewers on your own, choose an option that will take into account all the nuances of the architecture and geometry of your home. If you are not sure of your knowledge and experience, contact the professionals. Better spend more money on the correct installation than to correct errors, which will cost more.

July 7, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and outdoor decoration(plaster, putty, tile, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works.

First of all, it should be said that the depth of sewerage according to SNIP 2.04.03-85 regulate this parameter, although not quite clearly, but that's not all. The fact is that the Code of Practice captures only the minimum depth, that is, at the beginning of the pipeline, which goes downhill throughout its entire length. I want to tell you about similar nuances that have been worked out on personal experience, as well as invite you to watch the video in this article.

Factors Affecting Laying Depth

Factor one

So, the depth sewer pipes according to SNIP 2.04.03-85 is regulated by clause 4.8:

• The first rule is that installation should rely on experience already existing networks sewer pipelines, which has been developed in the area;
• if there is no such practice, then the tray for pipes with a diameter of up to 500 mm is at least 30 cm, and with a larger diameter - half a meter, and so on (see the excerpt photo above);
• but the clearest definition is laid down there in accordance with the depth of soil freezing to zero, and this is already thermotechnical calculations reports from local weather stations.

In the private sector, such calculations are unlikely to be useful to you, with the exception of the experience gained, which is indicated by the instruction from SNiP 2.04.03-85 paragraph 4.8. therefore, you should carefully study the other two factors that reflect the real state of affairs.

Factor two

Second, very important factor, without which sewerage will not take place at all, this is the slope of the pipeline:

• we are not talking about the forced selection of wastewater - this method is used only at enterprises, and then only in the case of specialized production, which means that we need an optimal slope of the pipeline;
• in the private sector, as a rule, a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is used, where a slope of 20 mm / 1 m2 is needed;
• occasionally a diameter of 50 mm is used (for drains without solid deposits, for example, for a shower or bath) - there you will need 30 mm / 1m running;
• therefore, the depth of the pipeline will increase with each running meter by 20-30 mm and at the end it may turn out to be half a meter or even a meter deeper than at the beginning;

• in addition, the depth of laying sewers can be adjusted, that is, this is not the initial exit, but an increase in immersion in each of the tanks;
• for example, if the immersion at the foundation is 80 cm, and at the entrance to the tank after 5 m 90 cm, then at the exit from the tank it will be necessary to maintain at least 115 cm between the top of the drain and the soil level;
• this difference of 15 cm allows the liquid to settle in each of the chambers, that is, in order for the level in the tank to rise to the drain level, it takes time, which is enough for sedimentation. The same thing happens in the next chamber;
• therefore, for a septic tank, you will have to take into account not only the depth of the pipeline, but also the depth of the tanks, where the bottom filter of the latter should be at least 50 cm below the outlet of the sewer.

Factor three

The conditions of the third factor are binding to the terrain:

• in SNiP 2.04.03-85, clause 4.8 there is a proposal that refers to the experience of sewer pipelines in a given area, and so, this concerns the experience of your neighbors in the area;
• the fact is that the depth of laying a sewer pipe may depend on the type of soil in your yard and it is quite natural that this indicator is identical for your neighbors;
• the wetter the soil, the deeper it freezes during frosts, but literally half a kilometer from your house the state of the soil may be different, therefore, consider what you see in your yard and in your neighbor's yard;
• if the neighbors do not have sewage, then you will have to decide for yourself, so for this you can ask a specialist for advice or at least find out the freezing depth from the map or table below.

City and surrounding areas	Depth in cm
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220
Ukhta, Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk	210
Orsk, Kurgan	200
Magnitogorsk, Chelyabinsk, Yekaterinburg, Perm	190
Orenburg, Ufa, Syktyvkar	180
Kazan, Kirov, Izhevsk	170
Samara, Ulyanovsk	160
Saratov, Penza, Nizhny Novgorod, Kostroma, Vologda	150
Tver, Moscow, Ryazan	140
St. Petersburg, Voronezh, Volgograd	120
Kursk, Smolensk, Pskov	110
Astrakhan, Belgorod	100
Rostov-on-Don	90
Stavropol	80
Kaliningrad	70
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220

Soil freezing table up to 0⁰C in Russia

Of course, this factor can be corrected by laying the sewer closer to the surface, if at the same time you insulate it properly.

I want to note that all these calculations that I cited above have nothing to do with storm sewers, since it is designed exclusively for positive temperatures, that is, it drains rain water and water from melted snow. Therefore, such structures are laid at the very surface, that is, the drain is at the same time a sewer pipe.

The main danger here is not, but the clogging of the gutter with leaves, small branches or washed away soil.

Mandatory requirements for the installation of a waste pipeline

in the photo: laying steps: 1 - pour the pillow; 2 - lay the pipe; 3 - close it with sand

Installation of any underground pipeline due to the presence of a pillow - on large sewer routes, a gutter is mounted for this purpose, but at the household level, a sand pillow is poured into the trench, at least 20-30 mm thick. Sand allows the pipe to distribute the load from the mass of soil, which is sprinkled sewer drain, throughout the area.

The second step is laying the line with a slope (I talked about this above), and after that the pipe is sprinkled with sand, at least 30-50 mm.

Before digging in the trench, you need to compact the sand or wait a few days for it to settle, but you can go the other way. Personally, in order to speed up this process, I simply pour plenty of water on the sand, and it immediately sets to the required state.

After that, you can immediately pour the soil - the sand will not only protect the PVC from soil deformation during subsidence, but also from various sharp stones, glass and metal objects that are sure to be found in the soil.

If you don't hide the sewer main to the proper depth (below 0⁰C), it can freeze, but it's not always possible to lay pipes in such deep trenches, especially there. Where the level of freezing reaches 2m or more.

Therefore, in order not to dig too far into the ground, you can use heaters, but their price is sometimes too high (extruded polystyrene foam or heating cable, which is even more expensive) and I get by with ordinary mineral wool.

But if the mineral wool is without waterproofing, then it will very quickly go astray and the thermal insulation effect will drop to almost zero, therefore, it is better to purchase it with a one-sided foil coating. In extreme cases, after you wrap the pipe with cotton wool with your own hands, wrap thick polyethylene over it or, in extreme cases, at least roofing material, securing it all with wire.

Conclusion

So, let's summarize, on which the depth of the sewerage depends. Firstly, you will have to determine the freezing point of the soil to 0⁰C or orient yourself according to the experience of ready-made gaskets, and secondly, you can insulate the sewer pipeline. If you still have questions on this topic, then ask them by writing down your posts.

July 7, 2016

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Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical advice

Normative documents

These building regulations are an updated version of an older document - SNiP 2.04.01-85.

Let's get acquainted with the main requirements of the joint venture related to private construction. Let me comment on some points based on my own experience:

• To divert wastewater to the general sewer, closed gravity pipelines should be used;

Sometimes the terrain forces the use of fecal pumps.
In this case, the pump must be installed in a buffer tank that allows the sewerage system to operate for a limited time in the absence of power supply.

• Pipes are laid in a straight line, without bends. The direction of the gasket can only be changed with the help of fittings;

This fully applies to pipes made of cast iron, PVC and polypropylene.
Polyethylene allows gasket with some bend (up to about 10 angular degrees).
It retains elasticity even when negative temperatures ah, so you can not be afraid of cracks and destruction of pipes.

• The laying slope must be constant;

This instruction is due to the fact that when the slope changes, the solid fractions of the effluents will linger in areas where it is minimal.
As a result, the likelihood of blockages will increase.

• To connect a horizontal section with a riser, it is strongly recommended to use oblique crosses and corners. An exception is crosses, the branches of which are located in two different planes;

This will greatly simplify cleaning in case of blockage.
A cable or wire, resting against the opposite wall of a straight tee, can fold or move in the opposite direction to the blockage.
The oblique tee will direct the cleaning tool in the direction of the drains.

• Two baths on the same floor can be connected to a common riser only through an oblique cross;

This is necessary so that during a volley discharge of water from one bath, water does not flow into another.
If the tubing is not tightly connected, overflowing the sewer is fraught with flooding of the bathroom.

• For sewage, it is recommended to use pipes and fittings with a service life of at least 25 years and hydraulic characteristics unchanged throughout the entire service life. Preferred polymer pipes(PVC, polypropylene, polyethylene, etc.);
• In the basement, internal sewerage is laid openly. In residential premises, it is allowed to be embedded in the floor, walls, boxes and shafts;

If possible, pipes should be left available for inspection and repair. In my practice, there were blockages that could be cleared only by cutting out a section of the riser.
The most typical case is a large shard of thick glass, standing upright between the walls of a cast-iron pipe.

• The place where the risers pass through the ceiling is sealed with cement mortar for its entire thickness;

In a wooden floor, mounting foam is used for the same purpose.
The goal is to reduce the propagation of sounds between floors, including through the sewer pipe itself, which under certain conditions serves as an excellent resonator.

• It is not allowed to seal pipes in the ceilings of living rooms and kitchens;
• The internal sewerage scheme in a private house should include ventilation risers (fan pipes) that are connected to the top points of the system. The fan pipe is displayed 20 cm above the roof at a distance of at least 4 meters from the nearest opening window. In this case, the exhaust part of the riser should not be thinner than its waste part;

• Installation of deflectors on the fan pipe is prohibited;

With all due respect to the authors of the joint venture, this requirement is not always worth fulfilling.
The deflector will really limit the draft in calm weather, but it will protect the sewer from wind-borne debris and prevent precipitation from falling into it in a downpour.
For cesspool owners who pay for waste disposal, the latter is quite important.

• On the operated roof, the exhaust riser rises above its level by at least three meters;
• The device of the house sewerage should provide for the possibility of its mechanical cleaning in case of blockages. For this purpose, revisions or tees with plugs are provided. In a private house, they are located at the bottom and top of each riser, at the beginning of each straight section with three or more plumbing fixtures, as well as at corners;

• On long straight sections, revisions or tees for cleaning are located in increments depending on the diameter of the pipeline:

Diameter, mm	Step, m
50	8-12
100 — 150	10-15

• If the level of the sides of the plumbing fixture is below the hatch of the nearest yard sewer well (for example, when located in the basement or basement), the corresponding sewer section is equipped with a sewer gate or an automatic fecal pump;
• All hydraulic devices are equipped with water locks that prevent sewer gases from entering the premises;

Connections of elbows and siphons with sewerage are carefully sealed with rubber sealing sleeves. Otherwise, gases will enter the room through the sockets.

• Several washbasins (up to 6 pieces) and several shower cabins or trays can be equipped with a common siphon with a diameter of 50 m, equipped with a revision or a hatch (cover) for cleaning;
• The recommended installation height of plumbing fixtures in the general case (in the absence of people with limited mobility in the family) is:

Practice

Diameters

For bathtubs, washbasins, sinks, showers, urinals, washing machines and dishwashers the diameter of the attached sewer is 50 mm. For toilet bowls - 110 mm.

These diameters are sufficient for any reasonable number of plumbing fixtures connected in parallel to the sewer, including two bathtubs in one room, subject to simultaneous volley discharge.

Noise

The sound of water flowing in the pipes will hardly give you much pleasure. A number of simple recommendations will help to avoid it.

• If possible, lay horizontal sewer sections in the underground, basement or behind false walls. Risers are best placed in technical or utility rooms;

• Where the riser passes through the living space, cover it with a gypsum plasterboard box or wall panels . It is desirable to fill the box with sound-absorbing material (as a rule, this is used mineral wool); as an option, the riser can be wrapped with foamed roll insulation;
• Instead of thin-walled PVC or polypropylene pipes, it is desirable to use polyethylene pipes or the so-called silent sewer. Thanks to the mineral filler and the variable density of the layers, it effectively absorbs acoustic vibrations. The price of such pipes, however, is 2 to 4 times higher than that of ordinary PVC, in addition, some manufacturers use own system diameters that are incompatible with conventional vinyl fittings;
• To fix the riser, use sound-absorbing clamps. equipped with foam rubber gaskets.

Installation

How to assemble the sewer from plastic pipes with your own hands? Here are the basic installation rules:

• The pipeline is laid with a constant slope of 2 cm / m for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and 3.5 cm / m for a diameter of 50 mm. Any counter slope will become a place of constant blockages: it will collect silt and fat deposits;
• The fixing points of the horizontal pipe should be separated from each other by no more than 8 - 10 pipe diameters. If you increase the step between the clamps, loose sections will sag in a year or two, forming sections with a counterslope;
• Vertical pipes are fastened with clamps under the necks of the sockets. Such a mount will not allow them to move under their own weight.

Pipe sockets and fittings must be directed against the direction of flow of drains. In this case, there will be a minimum number of irregularities inside the pipe, for which large-sized debris (paper, rags, etc.) that has fallen into it can catch on.

The pipe is easiest to cut with a grinder. Any abrasive wheel can be used for cutting. When working in indoors do not forget to protect the lungs with a gauze bandage: breathing plastic dust is below average pleasure.

After cutting, be sure to clean the inside of the pipe from burrs and chamfer the outside. Burrs will collect portable sewage hair, fabric fibers and other debris. The chamfer will greatly facilitate the assembly of the connection.

If the pipe enters the socket with great effort, lubricate it liquid soap or any other lubricant water based. Do not use engine oil or other fuels for lubrication: they will cause the seals to crack.

With hidden laying (in boxes and false walls), it is better to assemble connections on silicone sealant. Even if the seals lose their elasticity, it will not allow the socket to leak.

Ventilation

It is really necessary. Instead of lengthy discussions about the movement of sewer gases in pipes, I will simply share my own experience.

During the construction of the second floor, I brought the sewer to the septic tank without installation, based on the fact that with a system height of only 4 meters, there will be no significant draft in it. In addition, all connections of plumbing fixtures with sockets were carefully sealed.

It was not there: after some time, a characteristic sewer smell appeared in the attic toilet. As it turned out, the following happened:

1. When flushing in the toilet, the flow of water rushed down the riser, at some point blocking the entire lumen of the pipe;
2. The rarefaction arising at the same time in the upper part of the riser sucked water out of the bath siphon, disrupting the operation of the water seal;
3. The lack of water in the siphon opened the way for the aromas of the septic tank to the bathroom.

The problem was quite predictably solved by installing a vent pipe at the top of the sewer.

Heating

In regions with a warm climate, open laying of sewerage sites is often practiced. So, in the Crimea with his average temperature January at + 3C you can often find sewer pipes laid between the house and the well along the surface of the soil. The laying of pipes providing runoff from the second floor is also practiced along the facade.

Having looked at other people's buildings, I also laid a section of the internal sewerage to the septic tank along the facade: I did not want to spoil the ceiling and the repaired first floor with a riser.

Alas, there are frosts in the warm climate zone. In the very first winter, the operation of the in-house sewerage system showed that it was impossible to do without insulation at all: already at -10C, the drains began to freeze.

The problem was solved by installing a self-regulating. It is a conductive matrix that increases resistance when heated and decreases when cooled. As a result, the lower the temperature, the greater the heat transfer, the more the pipe on which the cable is fixed heats up.

Installation was done like this:

• The cable is glued to the bottom of the pipe with aluminum tape. Reflecting infrared radiation, it significantly reduces untargeted heat loss;
• Since aluminum tape is extremely fragile, the cable had to be additionally fixed with polyethylene ties.

Several turns of cable are also used to heat the open septic tank.
The main requirement for laying is that the termination and heat shrink between the cable and the cold end must be left outside the drain tank.
They are aggressive and destroy the heat shrink tube in a year or two of operation, but the vinyl insulation of the cable perfectly tolerates prolonged contact with a chemically active environment.

Conclusion

As you can see, sewer installation is not extremely difficult. You can learn more about it by watching the video in this article. Please share your own experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

July 14, 2016

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When laying sewer pipes from the house to the septic tank (cesspool), many parameters are taken into account: diameter, total length of the line, angle of inclination. In case of an error in the calculations, so-called ice plugs can form in winter. In this case, stop right job sewers in a private house. The scheme and depth of laying sewer pipes are the main factors for proper installation.

Rules for laying sewer pipes

A site plan is preliminarily drawn up with the location of a house, outbuildings, greenhouses and a garden on it. septic tank deep cleaning should be located at least 5 meters from the house, 15 from the source of drinking water and 2 meters from the border of the site. After choosing its location, you can proceed to the design of the sewer pipeline.

The basic rules for the arrangement are set out in SNiP 3.05.04-85. But it is recommended to take only part of the recommendations from it, since the document was developed without taking into account the use of modern polymer pipes:

• First, a septic tank is installed or a cesspool is arranged. The installation depth is regulated by the manufacturer. The upper part with the inspection hatch must remain on the surface.
• The angle of inclination of the pipe depends on its diameter. For self-laying, you can use the value of 20 mm for a section of 110 mm. The larger the last value, the smaller the slope.
• The sewerage scheme should have a minimum of rotary elements. Due to the increase in air resistance and friction, runoff and waste can remain in these areas, subsequently creating a blockage.

Depth calculation for pipes of septic tanks and cesspools

Despite the fact that household waste or sewage does not remain in the external pipeline, exposure to negative temperatures can adversely affect the operation of the sewer. Therefore, it is important to correctly calculate the depth of the pipeline. It depends on several factors.

Rules for calculating the laying depth:

• The smallest depth of the pipeline will be at the foundation of the house - the junction of the internal and outdoor sewerage. It should be more than the level of soil freezing.
• Height of groundwater rise. They create pressure on the pipeline and artificially reduce the depth during floods or heavy snowmelt.
• Soil type. Not all areas have the ability to make a trench of the required depth. In particular, this applies to soil with a predominance of rocks. The solution to the problem is the insulation of the pipeline.

Before laying pipes, you need to properly equip the trench. After its formation, a number of actions should be performed.

Falls asleep at the bottom sand cushion and carefully compacted. Then, a base for the pipe is formed from a layer of crushed stone. Its slope and location relative to the septic tank are checked. The final filling is done after checking the tightness of the line. The degree of soil pressure on the pipe surface is taken into account.

Frost protection

Insulation of external sewerage may be the only alternative if it is impossible to make a trench of the required depth. For this you can use various materials, it is important that they do not collapse under the influence of moisture or temperature changes.

As a heater, you can use the following materials:

• Styrofoam or extruded polystyrene shell. They are characterized by ease of installation, affordable cost, do not let moisture through.
• Basalt wool. You can use forms in the form of a shell or a sheet version of the insulation. The installation of a waterproof film is mandatory, since cotton wool allows water to pass through.
• Foamed polyethylene. It has good thermal insulation properties, but has insufficient thickness. Can be used to form an additional protective layer.

An alternative option is to install a resistive heating cable. But due to the large diameter of the pipeline, a powerful model will be required, which is not always appropriate and may not fit within the budget.