We make a cesspool with our own hands. How to make a drain pit: requirements for the structure and an example of construction with your own hands

Having suburban housing, the owners often face such a problem as the arrangement of the sewerage system. The most popular way to solve problems is by digging cesspools. But how to do it right, and what is a cesspool? It is important to understand all this, then it will be easier to find the right solution.

Types of cesspools for a private house

In the classic version, septic tanks are built mainly from bricks, concrete and even used car tires. There are several varieties:

1. without a bottom, while impurities fall directly into the ground;
2. sealed pit;
3. a septic tank, in which specially grown microbes are engaged in the decomposition of effluents.

For the case when the daily volume of waste is small, it is enough to dig a good hole without a bottom. The owners of clay areas mainly use a hermetic septic tank. The third method is perfect, but requires care and investment of money.

Important! Untreated liquids can cause pollution as well as health problems if they enter groundwater.

Sump type selection

When choosing a cesspool scheme in a private house, you should take into account such points as:

• depth of groundwater;
• number of inhabitants;
• water consumption of home appliances;
• location of the house and households. buildings;
• type of soil.

The question remains, how to make a cesspool correctly.

Before drawing up a diagram, you need to decide on its volume in accordance with the number of people living in the house. A hole should be dug:

• up to 3 meters deep, otherwise it will be impossible to perform high-quality cleaning of the pit;
• width - up to 2 meters.

According to building codes and regulations, the distance from the residential building must be at least 5 meters, from the fence of the site - at least 2 meters.

Air exchange should be created using a ventilation pipe with a protrusion of 600 mm above the ground. This will avoid the accumulation of gases resulting from the decomposition reaction. The pit must be accessible by a sewer truck for disposal in case of overflow of waste.

The brick walls of the pit are plastered inside. Arrangement of a treatment plant without concreting the bottom is prohibited by the rules, unless the waste volume per day is no more than 1 cubic meter. meters.

The location of the cesspool is selected individually. In this regard, the following are taken into account:

• features of the relief, type of soil, location of buildings;
• personal preferences;
• convenience.

It is clear that the larger the cesspool, the less often it will need to be cleaned. The drinking well should not be located close to the cesspool.

Hand-dug cesspool

Sooner or later, all owners have to solve the problem of waste disposal. For a comfortable stay, it is required, at a minimum, to dig and equip a sewage pit. How do you get it right, and where do you start?

Preparation for work

• The construction of a sump begins with choosing a place to dig a pit;
• It is necessary to take into account the possibility of entering the chamber to remove sewage;
• Digging a pit for a drain pit next to the house is not allowed;
• It is not advisable to use excessively long pipes for sewage;
• It is important to have information about the location of groundwater and the maximum level of their rise in the off-season.

Important! In addition, if there is a well on the site, the distance between it and the cesspool should be at least thirty meters.

Construction of a cesspool without a bottom

If difficulties arise for the construction of a classic septic tank made of concrete, you can:

• dig an ordinary hole and a ditch from the house to it;
• lay the pipe into the trench at an angle;
• find a barrel, make holes in it;
• put the barrel upside down in the dug hole;
• fill the ditch and septic tank with a layer of earth.

The volume of the barrel must satisfy the required amount of waste. In this case, the liquid will seep into the ground and gradually be compressed. An overcrowded pit will need to be cleaned out from time to time. Such a cesspool near a house under a layer of earth is easy to dig to clean pipes in case of clogging. The method is simple and inexpensive, but it is not always possible to use it, since with a large volume of waste, groundwater can be polluted.

How to build a brick cesspool

Red brick is one of the most commonly used building materials for the construction of septic tanks. It has properties such as high environmental friendliness, moisture resistance, reasonable price. Therefore, it is used for the construction of cesspools in a private house. To build a two-section brick septic tank yourself, it is enough to learn how to prepare a binder solution and make brickwork.

Arrangement of a cesspool in a private house involves the consistent mastering of all steps of the procedure.

Digging a pit

To install a cesspool, it will be necessary to dig a pit with a depth of no more than 3 m. The dimensions are calculated taking into account that the recommended volume of the septic tank should be about 8-10 cubic meters. meters. You should also provide a distance for laying bricks, so another 10-20 cm is added to the width of the pit.

Laying the foundation

Since one of the compartments of a two-section septic tank must have a sealed bottom, the concrete base is first poured. On one part of the pit, lined with gravel, a foundation with a thickness of 20-30 cm is poured. The foundation is not recommended to be erected in winter. The best time to bookmark it is early spring. Concrete hardening takes 3-4 days.

Walling

Walls built of bricks retain heat well and are durable. The bridge between the compartments is made of a material that does not corrode. To protect the brick intersection wall, special waterproofing materials are used: bitumen or mastic. Walls are usually laid out in a rectangle (you can in a semicircle). A 5 cm gap is left between the ends of the bricks for filtration.

Backfilling the reservoir

As the walls are ready and dry, you can tackle the lids to the tanks. In a two-section septic tank, there should be two of them. This will provide convenience for servicing each compartment. Hatches should be made of metal treated with an anti-corrosion compound. For work you will need:

• welding machine,
• materials and products - sheet metal, profiled pipes or corner.

A ventilation pipe must be installed in the cover. It is necessary to ensure the vital activity of aerobic bacteria that purify wastewater in the first compartment. The pipe must be completely sealed so that moisture from the outside does not enter the septic tank.

Important! The hatch cover should protrude 0.6 m above ground level so that surface water does not enter the septic tank.

Sewer pit made of concrete

The drainage pit can be made of concrete slabs. After determining the volume of the sump, it is required to dig a trench and lay pipes according to the scheme from a private house to a cesspool. In this case, the pipes should be laid at an inclination of approximately 3 degrees (4 cm per meter). It should be borne in mind that the longer the pipeline, the greater the angle should be. The lower part of the sump is better to be concreted.

In the upper part of the septic tank, it is necessary to provide an opening for the outlet of the ventilation pipe. Then the problem of odor from the waste pit will disappear by itself. A hatch is mounted at the top of the pit for ease of maintenance.

Cesspool lined with wood

A septic tank sheathed with wood is made in the form of boards knocked together in the form of formwork and can only be used with additional protective treatment.

Advantages of wooden cesspools:

• cheap price;
• the speed of the construction of the structure;
• good isolation of the soil from the ingress of sewage.

Such a pit, subject to high-quality wood processing, will last at least 10-15 years.

Homemade septic tank from eurocubes

Eurocube is a plastic container for storing and transporting liquids and solids. The container is housed in a frame made of metal rods. Its volume is 0.6-1 cubic meters. m. Their cost is low in comparison with other materials.

Advice. Before purchasing Eurocubes, you can try to get them for free through industrial companies that receive materials in such containers. Considering the costly disposal of bulky plastic containers, they are ready to dispose of them in any way. For owners of private houses, this method of obtaining containers will significantly reduce the cost of building a septic tank.

Features of the construction of a septic tank from euro cubes:

• Mandatory fastening of the tank with cable ties to the concrete base, since the eurocube is made of lightweight plastic and as a result of soil oversaturation or flooding, the tank can float to the surface;
• High speed of construction of a sewage treatment plant;
• Ease of maintenance of the septic tank.

The cubes are made of PVC, therefore it is necessary to periodically add bioremediation agents to avoid the spread of unpleasant odors.

For information. A country toilet with a cesspool made of eurocubes is the simplest design with which you can equip a latrine.

Instructions for the construction of a tank from eurocubes:

1. Dig a trench for two cubic containers, fill them with water;
2. Use metal formwork to obtain a flat concrete surface for the base of the tanks;
3. Equip inlet and transition pipes for tanks. Using a ring cutter, drill holes with a diameter of 110 mm. The inlet pipe is installed above the overflow level;
4. Ensure the sealing of the inlet and outlet of all pipes;
5. To protect them from freezing, the tanks are covered with sand and clay.

Cesspool for clay soil

A sewage pit in clay soil can often become silted, it is difficult for liquid to pass through. The optimal sewerage cesspool in this case is a concrete base and a container installed on it. Particular attention is paid to the sealing of joints and seams.

For information. A cesspool is one of the most economical options for arranging a sewage system in a summer cottage or in the courtyard of a country house.

Features of installation on clay soil

Two methods of high-quality performance of the sewerage system on clay soil are used:

1. First of all, ground work is being carried out to build a foundation pit. Holes are then drilled at the bottom for perforated drainage pipes. Excess liquid will be removed into the ground faster, and the solid part of the sewage will remain at the bottom of the pit;
2. The second option is distinguished by the installation of an overflow system for overflowing liquid from one pit to another. The trench connecting the two pits should have a slight slope.

Sump system from sewer tires

A septic tank made from tires is the most economical option for sewage systems. Such a design of a drain pit in a private house is simple and does not require special skills to build it. This wastewater treatment system is used when the septic tank is supposed to be used periodically and the volume of wastewater is small. It is also worth remembering that winter tires freeze, which makes it impossible to use the structure in the cold season. The device requires regular cleaning.

How to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands from tires:

1. It is necessary to dig a hole slightly larger than the diameter of the available tires. Fill the lower part with gravel to a layer thickness of 10-30 cm;
2. Place the tires on top of each other, fixing them securely together. Seal the joints between the tires;
3. The upper part of the septic tank must be equipped with a hatch.

Important! Failure to comply with sanitary standards when installing sedimentation tanks is fraught with big problems: penalties from the relevant authorities, unpleasant odors, infection with infectious diseases.

Sanitary standards

In order to avoid future troubles when building a cesspool, it is necessary to adhere to sanitary requirements. The distance from the pit to the water source should be more than twenty meters, from the house to the hatch - at least five meters. When arranging a pit, you need to take into account a margin, since the drains settle slowly, and the tank may overflow.

It is necessary to correctly determine the volume of the sump tank. According to the requirements for cesspools, the optimal rate for one person will be 0.5 cubic meters. meters. However, more often additional operating conditions are provided (clay soil, frequent use of water, oil waste), in this regard, the cesspool should be with a certain margin. If the family consists of three people with permanent residence, it is better to make a cesspool of about 6 cubic meters. m.

The choice of a septic tank option for installation in a private household depends on the materials available, labor costs, the volume of waste water, and the type of soil. To collect wastewater, most often they build either settling tanks, periodically emptied, or leaching cesspools - homemade reservoirs from which liquids come out, and solid particles remain.

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Unfortunately, there is not a centralized sewage system everywhere, and people are forced to equip street toilets on their plots.

It will not be difficult to go outside in the warm season, but in the cold season you do not want to go out into the cold once again.

And therefore, many people think about equipment at the site of the drain pit. Consider the topic of a drain pit in a private house in this article.

To ensure the arrangement of the drainage pit, it is better to hire professional workers, but you can equip it yourself.

Volume calculation

The equipment of a drain pit is considered a cheap and easy way to provide for private homes.

To calculate the required volume of the drainage pit, it is necessary to multiply the number of people who will live in the house by 1.2 m3. Let's give an example: if your family has five people, then the volume of the drain hole will be at least two and a half meters in a cube.

Types and purpose

Drain pits are of different types:

1. Fecal... A pit, the name of which speaks for itself, that is, this pit is designed to drain water from a toilet bowl or toilet, which is located on the site.
2. Waste... It is intended for, that is, draining from baths, showers, washbasins.
3. Combined. The pit is designed to drain both fecal matter and household water.

In rural areas, it is better to equip two pits: fecal and waste.

How to equip a drain pit in a private house

Determine the dimensions

Depth

First, find out the level of groundwater in your area. You can check the level yourself, but you can check it using a well, if it is located nearby.

If the groundwater is at a depth of 6-8 meters, then a waste disposal pit must be made at a level of 2-2.5 meters.

Length Width

In the event that the groundwater is close to the surface, the plastic container should not be placed underground. In this case, a sealed concrete well is made and a plastic container is placed in it, but this method will cost more.

In order for the plastic pit to work well for a long time, the pit under it must be dug so that there is a distance of 30 cm from the walls to the container.

The container is installed strictly horizontally. It is important that the tank has a ventilation pipe, otherwise there will be a danger of an explosion in the tank, since the decomposition of organic waste releases methane gas.

The drain pit has its positive and negative qualities, but its presence brings suburban life and life in a private house to another level. For this reason, people more and more often make cesspools of different designs on their plots.

We wish you good luck in your endeavors!

Modern urbanization has spoiled city dwellers with all kinds of amenities - gas pipelines, central heating, cold and hot water in the apartment and, of course, the sewage system. But these circumstances do not mean at all that in the village or at the dacha it is impossible to use these conveniences.

A well-equipped sewerage system and a cesspool in a private house or in the country will help create conditions for a comfortable stay far from the city.

Regulatory documents have been created in Russia to determine the status of cesspools. They regulate the location of the cesspool on the site. According to SNiP, the cesspool should be located:

1. At a distance of 20 m from residential buildings.
2. The distance from the cesspool to any fence should be more than 1 m.

According to SNiP, the optimal place for the pit is selected. Also, when arranging a pit without a bottom, the distance to the source of drinking water should be more than 30 meters.

The dimensions of the cesspool are calculated based on the following parameters:

How many residents live in the house permanently. The average daily rate of water consumption per person is 150-180 liters. For 30 days, a family of 2-4 people spends up to 12 m 3 of water, which enters the cesspool.

Taking into account the stock, the cesspool for 3 people should have a volume of about 18m 3.

Influence of soil behavior on the site. This factor is used as follows: if the soil contains porous rocks, then the volume of the cesspool can be reduced to 40% of the monthly water consumption.

If the soil for the most part consists of rocks that are poorly permeable to water, then the volume of the pit should exceed the drainage rate by 20-30%.

The depth of the cesspool in the optimal variant should be more than 3 meters. The cesspool requires periodic cleaning, and the help of the sewage service cannot be avoided, but you can make the pit deeper, and then it will be possible to pump out the drainage water once a year, or even less often.

If the design of the cesspool is sealed, then you will have to pump out water 1-2 times a month.

If you are not sure of your strengths in construction, then we recommend using construction services in Yekaterinburg, they build houses, gazebos and much more, everything on a turnkey basis.

Budget tire cesspool

Car tires - what could be simpler and more economical to build a cesspool?

Since the disposal of automobile rubber is an expensive pleasure, it will not be difficult to get such tires, and many service stations will also pay extra if you ask them for 8-12 pieces.

That is how much you need to build a cesspool from tires.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands using tires?

1. Pick tires of the same thickness and diameter. Calculate how many tires are needed, calculating the depth of the well 2.5-3 meters.

Along the contour of the tire, you need to mark the contour of the pit. This should be done at a distance of at least 5 m from the house. Add another 10-20 cm to the diameter of the hole so that the tires pass freely into the hole, and start digging with a regular bayonet shovel. It is more convenient to throw out the earth with a shovel.

Going deeper into the ground, change the shovel to another, with a longer handle, so as not to sink into the hole, as it will be too narrow for you. The edges of the shovel must be bent so that it is more convenient to take the earth at great depths.

2. After preparing the hole in its center, you need to drill a drainage well. This can be done with a regular garden drill. Drainage is needed so that the water goes into the ground better and faster, so you need to drill all waterproof layers - loam, etc.
3. A drainage pipe is inserted into the well - its end must be brought out above the pit by 1-1.5 meters. The upper part of the pipe must be covered with a net. The bottom of the pit should be covered with a 10-20 cm layer of rubble.
4. Tires are laid on the crushed stone. Previously, one inner side is cut off from each tire. Now the water will not linger in the depressions.
5. In the last or penultimate tire, you need to make a hole for the gutter with a jigsaw.

The finished pit is covered with earth and compacted.

To prevent the cesspool from filling with groundwater, you can lay a layer of roofing material or plastic wrap with the walls of the pit and car tires.

6. The cover for such a cesspool must be made of a very stable material. Thick plastic is best for this. On top of the cover, you need to pour a layer of earth in the form of a hill so that the water flows from it. The tire pit is ready.

A pit made of concrete rings - a reliable structure

Having completed all the calculations and having determined the place for the cesspool, you can begin preparation: purchase building materials, prepare the tools that will be needed for the construction of the cesspool. Pay attention to the following points:

1. The bottom of the pit must be concreted. A pit like this will give you less trouble cleaning.
2. The walls are also concreted. An overlap is made over the cesspool; it is necessary to make a ventilation hatch in it, through which gases will be discharged. Another hatch is needed for pumping out wastewater with sewage equipment or manually. The slab is best made from a concrete slab that has a hole.

If the hatch cover is not insulated, then it is necessary to calculate the depth of the pit so that the hatch is below the ground surface by 20-30 cm. Having installed the floor slab, it must be covered with soil. This measure will prevent the pit from freezing in winter.

1. The concrete is calculated according to the area of ​​the bottom of the pit, and, if necessary, of the overlap. Concrete is made as follows: 6 parts of fine or medium-sized crushed stone, 1 part of cement and 4 parts of sand. Water is added until a thick solution is obtained that does not run off the shovel.

Reinforcement with a diameter of 8-12 mm or steel wire with a diameter of 6-8 mm is placed in the bottom of the pit and poured with concrete. The reinforcement is laid with a step of 30-40 cm. After the bottom has solidified (2-3 days), concrete rings can be installed.

For a cesspool with a volume of 5-6 m 3, 4-5 rings will be needed. The diameters of the rings can be from 800 to 1500 mm.

2. The seams between the rings must be concreted, and after the mortar has completely hardened, the top slab can be laid. While the concrete is drying, sewer pipes can be connected.

Brick

The bottom of the cesspool is done in the same way as in the first case. The floor slab can be made of wood by impregnating the boards with creosote or bitumen.

Do not forget the ventilation and evacuation hole.

It is undesirable to use a concrete slab for a brick pit, since with its large weight it can crush the edges of a brick pit.

The number of bricks for the cesspool is calculated as follows: the height of the walls must be divided by the height of the 1st brick and add 6-10 mm of the joint thickness (cement mortar). The result will be the number of rows of bricks.

The use of cinder block, foam block or similar building materials is not recommended. Under the influence of moisture, the cinder block quickly collapses. Such a cesspool will not last long. The only plus of this material is fast and low-cost construction.

Several ways to clean

There are at least four effective methods for cleaning a cesspool with your own hands and with the help of specialists. Manual cleaning, pumping out with a pump, help of sewage equipment and biological products. Let's consider each separately.

The work of biological products will bear fruit - the drains will begin to be more actively absorbed into the soil and, perhaps, the pit will not even have to be pumped out. Chemicals are also available, but they must be selected very carefully.

Now you know about all the ways to clean the cesspool in your area. By doing everything according to the rules, you will clean the hole efficiently and quickly.

For the improvement of a private house, summer cottage and any other residential buildings, the main thing is the equipment of drainage and sewerage systems. An integral element of waste disposal is the drain pit, the construction of which can be done independently. In this article, we will talk in detail about the features of building drain pits, determine the main criteria for choosing a place for their creation, and also get acquainted with the basic requirements for this structure on the site.

How to choose the right place for building a drain pit with your own hands

Do-it-yourself construction of a drain pit begins with choosing a place for the future structure. In order for waste disposal to be as convenient, safe and high-quality as possible, the following nuances must be taken into account:

• terrain type;
• placement of groundwater;
• location of drinking water wells nearby;
• distance from surrounding buildings at least 6 meters;
• from the drain pit to the fence must be at least 2 meters, etc.

Before starting construction work, it is very important to familiarize yourself with the nature of the soil on the ground, as well as accurately determine the occurrence of groundwater, since the distance from the bottom of the pit to them should be more than 1 meter. When determining the territory for the drain pit, it is very important to take into account all sanitary standards so that harmful, poisonous fumes do not harm either the homeowners or those around them.

Determination of the main parameters of the drain pit. Depth and diameter

After choosing a suitable place for a cesspool, it should be determined with its main parameters. The volume, depth and diameter of the structure for this purpose is guided by the following criteria:

• the main material used in the work;
• the number of residents in the house;
• type of construction.

Often the choice of consumers stops at a septic tank made of plastic cups. This means that the volume of the drain pit is affected by the number of containers used. The technique of installing a septic tank requires free space on the sides of the structure (approximately 25-30 cm), which should be covered with earth or clay. In this case, it is worth paying attention to the condition of the earthen cushion on which the plastic vessels will be installed. It is very important that one of the containers is located above the other, due to which the drains will move freely in the desired direction.

For example, for drain pits with concrete rings inside, experts recommend preparing an ellipse-type pit with a diameter of 1.5 - 1.7 m.

For drain pits made of brick or concrete, in the process of determining its main parameters, the volume that the material occupies is necessarily taken into account.

The second criterion by which the dimensions of the drain pit are calculated is the number of people living in the house. We take into account the indicators of the volume of water that, on average, one person uses per day. Considering these indicators, it is still worth taking all the numbers with a margin. So, the formula for calculating the volume of the drain pit: the indicators of depth, width and length are multiplied by each other. As for the depth of such a structure, it should not be less than 180 cm.

The dimensions of the drain pits directly depend on the selected type of construction. The main ones are highlighted in the table.

Features of the drain pit for summer use

The presence of a sewer is simply necessary to drain waste from a sauna, bath, shower, toilet, kitchen, etc. Drain pits are classified not only in terms of design features, but also according to seasonal characteristics. In addition, there is also a third criterion - this is the type of material used for construction. So, according to the seasonal characteristics, drain pits are distinguished mainly for summer use and all-season structures. Summer-type structures are built from scrap materials, such as:

• wooden boards;
• old car tires;
• plastic and metal barrels, etc.

Do-it-yourself drain pit from wooden tires

For equipment of a string pit for seasonal use, a material such as wood is perfect. For those new to construction work, the process of mounting and installing from boards will not be as difficult as with other materials. So, for the construction of a summer cesspool, the following materials and tools should be prepared:

• digging shovel;
• wooden boards and nails;
• tape measure, building level;
• wooden supports (pillars);
• metal pipes (as stiffeners);
• crushed stone;
• moisture resistant polymer materials;
• hammer;
• Bulgarian, etc.

It should be borne in mind that wood absorbs moisture well, even when processing the material with moisture-resistant means, this type of drain structure will not last more than 10 years.

Step 1. Prepare the pit using a shovel.

Step 2. We create a formwork from boards according to the intended dimensions (height about 1.5 m);

Step 3. Install the supports (wooden beams) and connect them with the knocked down wooden shields;

Step 4. We strengthen the structure with spacers;

Step 5. We provide stiffener structures with metal pipes.

Step 6. Cover the pit.

Professionals recommend using polyurethane foam as a polymer material, as an additional protection against moisture.

Features of a drain pit for all-season use with your own hands

To create drain pits for all-season use with their own hands, they use materials such as bricks, concrete rings, etc. Such designs differ from temporary ones in depth, shelf life, volume of absorption of effluents, etc. All-season cesspools require an inspection hatch. Next, we will consider the processes of constructing a brick drain pit and creating a structure from concrete rings, we will take a closer look at the advantages and disadvantages of each of the options.

Features of a drain pit made of concrete rings with your own hands

Drain pits made of concrete rings are reliable structures that, if properly installed, can serve for more than a century. The process of working on such a structure requires the master of skills in working with a welding machine. A number of advantages of cesspools made of concrete rings include:

• resistance to toxic, chemical effects of runoff substances;
• long-term operational period;
• water resistance of concrete material;
• the placement of groundwater, for a concrete structure, practically does not matter.

The disadvantages of this type of cesspools include the fact that work with the structure requires the use of special equipment. This series can be supplemented by the fact that this work process is characterized by laboriousness and an increased level of pollution.

Drain pits made of concrete rings are divided into two types. The first is structures with a bottom, the second is pits without a bottom. A construction with a bottom is considered an all-season, and actually harmless option, since in this case there is no unpleasant odor, no danger to the environment, and, as a result, other characteristic functional disadvantages.

According to the above criteria for choosing a place for construction, we decide on the territory, after which we can proceed to the choice of the main material - concrete rings. It is best to use pre-made rings that can be ordered from specialized suppliers. At this stage, it is worth immediately taking care of the equipment (crane), with the help of which the concrete rings will be placed in the pit of the drain structure.

As a rule, construction work begins with the preparation of the bottom of the pit. At this stage, concrete mortar is used. For the preparation of the jellied mass, we use 1 part of cement and 6 parts of crushed stone. The following installation procedures should be continued after this layer has completely dried (no earlier than 7 days).

After the bottom is completely dry, you can install concrete rings, the seams of which must be treated with liquid glass, thus ensuring complete insulation of the structure.

It is worth paying attention to the type of concrete rings, as they come with and without a lock. The second type in the installation process is usually strengthened with metal brackets. A special overlap is installed on the last ring, which has a special place under the cover of the drain pit, a hatch.

Do-it-yourself brick drain pit features

Drain pits made of bricks, as well as of concrete rings, can be either with or without a bottom. Better still take care of its availability. Brick structures of this type are distinguished by the following number of pros and cons:

• environmental Safety;
• ease of installation and operation;
• does not depend on the level of groundwater and the type of land cover;
• the presence of an unpleasant odor;
• not a long term of service;
• the frequency of pumping out runoff substances, etc.

Work on this type of drain pit requires considerable time and physical costs, and consists of the following stages.

1. Choosing a site for construction.
2. Calculation of the dimensions of the pit.
3. Preparation of tools and materials.
4. Digging a foundation pit.
5. Bottom preparation.
6. Walling.
7. Internal finishing of the pit.
8. Cover installation.

To work with brick material and prepare a place for a cesspool, you will need: bayonet and shovels; a container for mixing mortar, buckets, trowels, construction measuring tools, pegs and a rope for fencing the territory.

After the pit has been dug to the desired depth and planned dimensions, you need to take care of the walls (align them and eliminate collapses). Then you can do the bottom, it should be poured under a slope. After the base has dried, the formwork is prepared for the construction of the walls, then we can proceed to the brickwork. Experts repeatedly remind of an additional layer of waterproofing for bricks. Bitumen of different types (modified, or bitumen mastic) are used as protective layers.

Creating a cesspool with your own hands requires a reliable, durable overlap. For this purpose, reinforced concrete structures are used, since they are able to withstand heavy loads. according to safety rules, hatches should overlap the drain pits on the sides by more than 30 cm. It is worth taking care of the hole in the hatch for convenient drainage.

How to make a drain pit on your site

The presence of a cesspool on the farm is indisputably important, necessary and, moreover, a very crucial moment. In order to answer the question of how to make a drain pit on your site, it is worth reading some advice from experienced professionals.

Advice 1. Before starting construction work, familiarize yourself in detail with the sanitary norms and choose the right place, any violations can lead to administrative penalties and fines.

Tip 2. Use only quality materials to neutralize the formation of harmful, toxic fumes and odors.

Advice 3. Consult with experts on the issue of wastewater pumping, choose one of the methods (pump, sewage equipment, etc.), which will be the most convenient and effective in your area.

Tip 4. In the process of installation work, do not forget about sealing and insulating joints and seams.

Tip 5. For durability, environmental friendliness and reliability of drain pits, install ready-made, sealed septic tanks, which will simplify even the process of neutralizing wastewater.

For more information on the topic, watch the video:

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To ensure a comfortable stay in a private house, its owner has to put in a lot of effort. This applies to the maintenance of all utilities, including the sewerage system, which in its own household consists of a cesspool and drain pipes.

A cesspool with a volume of 2 cubic meters is capable of recycling waste, provided that no more than two family members permanently reside in the house or the building is used only for temporary stay in it. You should often clean the drain pit, and this costs money and a lot, since you need to order a sewer truck. Experts recommend building a high-quality treatment facility on the site, the contents of which will need to be pumped out much less often.

Selecting the type of drainage pit

1. An earth tank without a bottom is the most popular. Due to the lack of a concrete base, the liquid partially goes into the soil and drains are collected in the container very slowly. It is cleaned no more than once in a few months.

   A bottomless design such as the one in the photo has a number of serious drawbacks. Runoff and sewage gradually pollute the soil and groundwater, therefore, the digging of drain pits should be carried out at a certain distance from the house, but not closer than 5 meters. In addition, this type of drainage structure loses its filtering capacity over time due to the gradual silting of the bottom.

   A two-chamber septic tank has a more complex design. The waste liquid first enters the first container, where large waste is deposited. The bacteria then begin to process the contents. The first chamber is connected to the other container by means of a drain pipe. Thus, a fine-grained, more pure liquid enters the second part of the septic tank. There the drains are finally settled.

   
   The second tank has a similar structure as that of the first part of the treatment plant. In it, bacteria continue to process wastewater. Both chambers are cleaned about 1-2 times a year. At the exit from the septic tank, water is obtained, which is quite suitable for use for technical purposes, for example, for irrigation. It can also be discharged into a nearby body of water.

   How to dig a drain hole correctly

   There are certain sanitary standards governing how to properly dig a drain hole. Initially, you should choose the place where the pit will be built. Read also: "".

   

   The minimum depth of the drainage pit should be 2 meters, while the groundwater level is below this from the mark. Also, the pit should be located at a distance of at least 30 meters from a water source, such as a well. The minimum distance from the well to the cesspool should never be reduced.

   
   Before digging a drain hole, you need to make sure that it will be located at a distance of at least 5 meters from the residential building. It is impossible for the drainage ditch to be on the slope of the site and far from the road (this is required in order to pump out sewage with the help of special equipment, if necessary). Read also: "".

   The pit is dug both manually and with the help of an excavator. Its width must exceed the calculated width of the pit by about 50 centimeters for the interior lining. When calculating the depth of the future foundation pit, the thickness of the bottom pouring with a concrete solution is taken into account. In addition to the hole, you need to dig trenches for laying waste pipes.

   

   The walls of the drain pit and its cover

   A home craftsman needs to know not only how to dig a drain hole, but also be able to decorate its walls.

   At the bottom of the pit, a drainage cushion is laid, consisting of sand and several layers of crushed stone. A reinforced concrete slab is placed on it or a concrete screed is made. When a filter pit is created, a 20-centimeter layer of rubble, stones, broken brick or cinder block is poured onto its bottom.

   From materials for wall decoration you can use:

   • concrete solution. The formwork with the inserted rods is pre-installed, and then the walls are poured. The thickness of the concrete layer must be at least 7 centimeters;
   • Red brick. The walls are laid out from below to the very top;
   • reinforced concrete posts. They are placed in a row on the cement mortar. To avoid collapse, limiters are made on both sides of the masonry;
   • reinforced concrete rings. A crane is required for their installation. The rings are placed on a concrete base set up at the bottom of the pit. The joints between the elements are coated with cement mortar;
   • the simplest solution is a ready-made container (as a plastic option), placed in the pit. Before digging a drain hole, you need to know the parameters of the tank (purchased tank) so that they correspond to its size.

   

   When decorating the walls, at the same time, the pit is connected to the drain pipes. They should be connected to the wall material hermetically, but not rigidly. This is done in order to prevent damage to pipes in the process of soil settling. It is advisable to use rubber connectors and adapters with a sufficient degree of strength. Outside, the pit is trimmed with roofing material in several layers or with oily clay.

   It is impossible to cover the drain pit hermetically, since it must communicate with the atmosphere. In addition, it is necessary to have a hole in the lid for pumping sewage through it. Therefore, the best overlapping option for the pit is slate sheets. For this, wooden logs are placed on top of the pit. When the hole needs to be opened, the sheets are removed and set aside. For such an overlap of the pit, it is required to make insulation for the winter.

   Another option is a concrete slab with a cleaning hole. Sometimes you can make an overlap of boards. Regardless of the version of the cover for the drainage pit, rain and melt water must not enter the pit.

   Chemicals for septic tanks and pits

   For drain pits, there is a huge selection of different bioactivator products on sale. They are produced in the form of solutions, powders, tablets, etc. These preparations contain strains of microorganisms that can recycle human waste very quickly. Bacteria feed on organic substances and consume oxygen, which is dissolved in wastewater.

   As a result, microorganisms in the shortest possible time rid the surrounding space near the pit from the stench and decompose the sewage into separate components.