Sewer pipe cyclone drawing. Do-it-yourself cyclone filter or how to remove debris with a household vacuum cleaner

Quite often, after various types of work, a large amount of fine dust and debris remains, which can only be removed with the help of good vacuum cleaner... A simple home apparatus is not adapted to this. It is necessary to use a high-power industrial vacuum cleaner. You can make a filter for it yourself.

People who constantly work in the construction industry need to clean up a large amount of various small debris and dust. This can be old plaster, foam, drywall, or wood dust. Such debris is capable of settling in a thick layer throughout the room. It is very difficult to sweep with a broom or wipe this dust with a rag, because due to the large size of the room, such cleaning will take a long time.

The use of a vacuum cleaner in this case is optimal. An ordinary product that is used at home is not suitable for these purposes. The ingress of chips or sawdust will clog the vacuum cleaner or even disable it. Also, a large amount of fine dust will quickly clog the dust container, which will need to be cleaned every 20 minutes.

But construction vacuum cleaners are large, inconvenient to use, maintain and have a very high cost. For this reason, some DIYers have learned to enhance the performance of their household product by equipping it with a specialized cyclone filter. Such dust collectors can be purchased at a hardware store or made at home with your own hands. On the Internet, you can find many drawings of dust collectors for woodworking workshops.

Experts point out the following advantages of cyclone filters:

no need to constantly buy disposable bags and containers for collecting fine dust;
small size;
quiet operation of the device;
when the filter housing is made of transparent plastic, it is possible to monitor its contamination;
high efficiency.

How the cyclone filter works

The cyclone consists of several parts:

pipe branch;
frame;
dust collector;
a chamber with a membrane filter;
intake fan.

Dirty air through the pipe enters the cylindrical body of the product. The branch pipe is located tangentially to the side walls of the housing, so the air flow around the cylinder walls is twisted in a spiral. Due to centrifugal force, dirt particles are pressed against the body of the device, and then fall into a special dust collector. The remaining air with dust particles enters another chamber, which is equipped with several membrane filters. As a result, all the collected dust enters the intake fan.

The least contaminated membrane compartment, which must be cleaned only after the end of cleaning. The collected dust is simply removed from a special drive, and the device is again ready to perform its duties.

Vacuum cleaners with a similar principle of operation are much cheaper than water vacuum cleaners, but more expensive than membrane ones. For this reason, home craftsmen independently assemble the cyclone, and then connect it to a household vacuum cleaner.

Do-it-yourself cyclone from scrap materials

It is quite simple to assemble a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands. It is often required when processing wood. Together with a fraser or an electric plane, a membrane-type vacuum cleaner clogs up very quickly, and it needs to be cleaned often, which greatly distracts from the production process. When a craftsman is engaged in carpentry in a small room, then fine sawdust creates a lot of problems... For this purpose, a cyclone was designed and manufactured from simple parts, which is not inferior to its factory counterparts.

Materials for making

To make a homemade cyclone, you will need the following materials:

Assembling a cyclone for a household vacuum cleaner

On the lid of the plastic container, a special bracket is fixed for a small air filter, which can be made from a metal strip or corners. The air filter must fit very tightly against the plastic lid of the container. Otherwise, dusty air will penetrate into the outlet. Further, the outlet pipe must be tightly fixed on top of the cover. Through it, the purified air will flow into a household vacuum cleaner. Experts advise leaving the membrane filter of the household product. This will help keep the fan free of dirt and will not weaken the air flow.

Near the air filter, it is worth putting a special dust baffle, which is collected from a thin metal sheet. This element is able to fight off small particles of dirt that do not fall off under the influence of gravity, which allows you to clean the filter much less often. The same job can be done by an old lady's stocking, which protects the filter pores from large and light particles of dust.

The homemade inlet must be placed tangentially to the walls of the case and tilted slightly towards the bottom of the device. The dirty air will immediately be sent in the right direction. In order for the walls of the container not to collapse from the vacuum environment, they must be well reinforced with a metal strip. Plastic containers are not able to withstand heavy loads, because the material is quite thin. Since the device turns out to be large, it is worth making a plywood frame, which does not hurt to equip with small swivel wheels.

Next, you need to qualitatively fix the assembled filter and a household vacuum cleaner to the frame. The fastener is obliged to ensure quick dismantling in order to clean the container from the collected debris. At the end of the work, you need to test the device. All debris should remain at the bottom of the plastic container.

How to make an aquafilter for a vacuum cleaner

When a person does not need a professional construction vacuum cleaner, then a water filter for shavings can be made in another way. For example, it can be made from a regular traffic cone. Any plastic container with tight walls and a well-closing lid will serve as a dust collector. It is worth noting that plastic container acts as an air system, and leakage has a bad effect on the power of the device. It is necessary to cut the support square from the traffic cone. According to the resulting shape of the hole, you need to cut out the top cover from plywood.

An outlet pipe is fixed to the top cover with a sealant, which should be made from a regular sewer pipe. This part must be lowered to the middle of the building cone. When it is raised higher, then the swirl of the dust will be wrong. If the outlet pipe goes down too low, then dirt will be sucked into it.

The narrow section of the traffic cone is also sealed into a plywood circle that attaches to the trash bin. It is worth checking the tightness of all seams and joints several times. An inlet pipe is placed near the upper edge of the cone, into which dirty air will enter.

Next, you need to check the correct assembly of the dust collector. The outlet must be connected to the inlet of the household vacuum cleaner using the factory hose. Therefore, the branch pipe should be selected in accordance with the diameter of the vacuum cleaner hose. The waste collection hose is connected to the product inlet. A test run is mandatory. When the device is assembled correctly, all debris will accumulate at the bottom of the plastic container, and the membrane filter of the household vacuum cleaner must remain clean.

You can make a cone shape with your own hands. For example, it can be made of metal tin, after having calculated the scan of the product. An old galvanized metal bucket may also work.

Large garbage in the workshop can always be swept away and taken to the landfill in bags. But what about dust, metal or wood shavings, and numerous other microscopic industrial waste? A purchase can hit your wallet hard. And an ordinary vacuum cleaner will not cope with such a job. But if you make your own cyclone for a vacuum cleaner or even your own construction vacuum cleaner, you can save yourself from a number of problems!

Why do you need a cyclone filter?

Construction dust, metal or wood dust looks completely harmless. But this is only at first glance. Working in a dusty environment can damage the respiratory system and cause serious illness. And the tools will deteriorate from the endless stream of garbage. There may be several reasons:

Dust gets into the tool and the lubricant inside it. As a result, it overheats and fails.
If there are moving parts in the device, then dust may well impede their operation, and also lead to breakdown in the future.
Dust can clog the special vents, which are designed to cool the instrument. As a result, overheating and breakdown again.

The cyclone filter will ensure the collection of any debris in production without harm to the vacuum cleaner.

Principle of operation

Using an aerodynamic air flow, the filter will bind the dust particles together. In turn, centrifugal force begins to act, pressing them against the walls of the container. And then gravity forces the debris to sink to the bottom.

There are many diagrams showing the operation of cyclone filters. One of them can be seen below.

Cyclone filter device

You can make such or a similar filter with your own hands. There are a huge variety of options for execution, but one thing unites them - the principle of operation. Any construction will consist of:

An ordinary vacuum cleaner (preferably a powerful one);
Cyclonic filter;
Garbage collection container.

Throughout the structure. In its normal state, it is designed for cleaning the house, sucking up small debris and dust. In this case, a cyclone filter appears, which means that the length of the duct will be increased almost three times, respectively, and the load on the device will be greater. The design turns out to be quite massive, unlike a conventional vacuum cleaner, so such a trick is necessary to ensure that the length of the hose is sufficient for comfortable cleaning.

DIY construction vacuum cleaner: what you need

As mentioned above, you can use a regular household vacuum cleaner. But many craftsmen are not attracted by this option, so a home-made unit becomes the best solution.

In order to make such a device, even if it was preserved with the time of the distant Soviet past. This is the advantage that homemade vacuum cleaners can be made from unnecessary old units.

So, from the vacuum cleaner we extract such elements as:

Motor;
Cord connecting the device to the network;
Power adjustment device;
Suction corrugation.

For the case, prepare:

Plastic pipe with a diameter of 5 cm;
Container with a lid;
A sheet of plywood about 0.5 cm thick;
14 nuts and bolts M6;
Galvanized sheet metal strip;
Car filter (from minibus);
Switch - 220 V;
Sealant;
Sandpaper;
Glue gun rods;
Hose-corrugated (can be from the washing machine);
Threaded rod with nuts and washers;
Electrical installation corrugation PND32.

It is worth immediately preparing the tools:

Drill;
Glue gun;
Sealant gun;
Locksmith keys;
Screwdrivers;
Jigsaw;
Nippers.

Manufacturing

At a distance of about 10 centimeters from the top of the container, we make a hole into which we connect the pipe. The hole should be oval and straight. The branch pipe is placed in it slightly at an angle downward, tight against the wall. With a glue gun, you need to fix the result, as in image 2.

A pipe inserted into a pre-drilled hole in a barrel

We attach an adapter from the inside to connect the suction hose.

Cut out two circles about half the size of the cover, drill holes for the bolts. Parts are attached on both sides. After other circles are drilled, and with sandpaper, their surface is cleaned from burrs. We cover the products around the perimeter with a sealant, after that, they are installed and finally fastened. The hole for the pin is made in the center. A little to the left will be a larger hole for air intake.

Pin location and air vent hole

We need an air filter without a mesh (it will be clogged with debris, which is extremely unprofitable), in which it is placed. It must be removed with pliers. One side of the cylinder should be closed with a plywood plug. The filter is attached to the stud with a nut.

By the way, the filter will help not only get rid of dust, but also prevent inhalation of dangerous small particles, such as toner. If you use a conventional vacuum cleaner in this case, the bags are easily clogged with toner dust. In this case, all particles will settle in the collection container.

In order to make it more convenient to fasten it, you can cut it out along with the plastic parts. To secure it to the lid, you will need a clamp, which can be made from a strip of tin.

The switch and regulator are placed side by side. After that, all parts are connected to each other with wires, and a wire with a plug is connected.

Make sure that everything is connected correctly and there are no exposed wires, and only then check the operation of the device.

Location of the motor, switch and power regulator

The suction hose is usually not long enough, so it is extended with a corrugated pipe.

Standard nozzles from a vacuum cleaner will help to put things in order in any workshop. They can also be used to connect to equipment, for direct garbage collection, using simple adapters.

So, the homemade cyclone-type construction vacuum cleaner is ready!

What if there is no way to make a vacuum cleaner with your own hands?

Of course, not everyone wants to make a vacuum cleaner from scratch, and the necessary parts may not be available. In this case, a regular household vacuum cleaner is perfect, preferably with a high power. Next, you just need to make a cyclone filter for it, which will not require large costs. Most often it is made from a traffic cone or bucket. Let's consider both options.

A drawing of a homemade cyclone can be seen below.

Cyclone drawing

Traffic Cone Cyclone

A simple and quick way to build a cyclone on a vacuum cleaner directly with your own hands is to make it from a traffic cone.

What do you need to work?

Since the manufacture of the cyclone will be carried out with your own hands, you need to prepare the necessary tools and consumables. So we are preparing:

Road cone;
Plastic pipes (about 40 mm)
Angle 45 degrees;
Plywood;
Pieces of chipboard;
Glue gun and rods;
A container with a lid, it is possible from under the paint.

Let's start making

To begin with, we take plywood to make a cover from it that covers the cone. We cut out a circle of the required diameter, and cut two holes in it. One will be in the middle, the second parallel at the edge, as in Figure 6.

Plywood circle with holes for air inlet and outlet

A pipe inserted into one of the holes

It is also necessary to insert a pipe into the second hole, but an angle of 45 degrees is put on it from above. It is moving through it that the air will swirl into a vortex. The corner is located inside the cone.

Corner location for proper air circulation in the cyclone

After that, the pipe is glued as in the case of the first. The lid is ready. Then it is glued into the cone.

The tip of the cone must be cut off. After, it is inserted into the lid of the bucket in the center into a pre-prepared hole. The attachment point is glued. On the inside, the lid must be reinforced with pieces of chipboard. Then they are pulled together with self-tapping screws.

The result is a product as in Figure 9.

Ready product

Cyclonic bucket filter

Another simple material for making a cyclone filter will be a regular bucket, you can even use paint. The volume must be calculated based on the power of the vacuum cleaner - this is approximately 1 liter of capacity for every 80-100W.

The bucket must have a hermetically sealed lid, and the shape of the container itself must be round!

For manufacturing you will need:

A bucket with a lid (it is possible from under the building mixtures);
Compass;
2 knees 90 and 45 degrees;
Plastic pipe;
Silicone;
Rubber or O-rings;
Stationery knife;
Glue gun.

Manufacturing

We make holes in the lid. You can use a factory compass, or you can use a homemade one. Screw two self-tapping screws into the wood rail at a distance of exactly 2.7 centimeters from each other.

The center of each hole is marked 4 cm from the edge. Next, circles are cut out for pipes at the marked places.

We insert the knee tightly into the socket, having previously applied silicone to its side. From the inside of the product, a seal is pulled over the bell. Crimp with a hose clamp if necessary. It will look like in Figure 10.

We insert pipes into the bucket lid, turning the angle correctly

On the outside, the inlet is almost flush with the cover. On the reverse side, the knee is guided by the turning part to the center of the bucket. But for the desired effect, it is supplied with a 45-degree turn, which is directed obliquely downward, as in Figure 11.

Back side view

The second branch pipe, which will draw air, is located in the opposite direction. A knee is inserted into it so that air is taken from the side of the bucket. It is necessary in each case to use O-rings, they will allow the pipes to be securely fastened, and will not allow them to turn.

We conclude that you can quickly and easily make a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands, using available tools. At the output, you should get something like the one in the figure below.

Cyclone filter connected to a household vacuum cleaner

Difficulties that can be encountered while working

It is not difficult to create a cyclone filter with your own hands, or even a homemade vacuum cleaner, as we have seen, if you have the necessary materials.

In some cases, it is recommended to take metal containers for waste collection, as they are considered to be more robust. In the presence of a vacuum cleaner with enormous power, the plastic bucket can "collapse" so to speak. It is pulled inward due to the strong flow of intake air. This happens extremely rarely, but it is better to immediately provide for such an option. It can be leveled, but damage to the product will be visible. So you always need to consider the quality of the plastic and the power of the device. In the case of a traffic cone, this problem does not arise.

When machining various materials, a large amount of chips can be generated. There are many difficulties with manual removal. To significantly simplify the procedure under consideration, they began to use special devices called chip suckers. They can be found in specialized stores, the cost varies in a fairly wide range, which is associated with the functionality, performance and popularity of the brand. If desired, such equipment can be made by hand, for which it is enough to know the varieties and the principle of operation.

Principle of operation

Do-it-yourself cyclone-type chip suction is possible only after determining the basic principles of work. The features include the following points:

A small-section corrugated hose is connected to the main body, which concentrates and enhances traction. The tip may have a different attachment, it all depends on the specific task.
In the upper part of the structure, there is a motor that is directly connected to the impeller. Rotation discharges the air, thereby creating the required thrust.
When sucked in, the chips settle in a special container, and the air is removed through a special pipe on which a coarse filter is installed.
A fine filter is also installed at the outlet pipe, which retains fine particles and dust.

In general, it can be said that the principle of operation of cyclone-type chip suckers is quite simple, due to which the design is characterized by reliability.

Chip suction types

Almost all models of cyclone-type chip suckers are similar. In this case, the main mechanisms, for example, the engine or the cyclone system, may differ slightly, which determines the main classification. All cyclone-type chip pumps can be conditionally divided into several categories:

For household use.
Universal.
For professional use.

When choosing a model for a home workshop, you should pay attention to the first two groups of equipment. This recommendation is due to the fact that their cost should be relatively low, while the performance will be sufficient.

With frequent work with the workshop, a large amount of chips and with professional provision of cleaning services for workshops and other premises, it should be considered when choosing a cyclone-type chip sucker from a professional group. This is due to the fact that it is characterized by higher performance and reliability, and can withstand long-term use.

Cyclone-type chip suction device

Most of the models resemble an ordinary vacuum cleaner, which, due to strong traction, sucks up large and small chips. However, it is impossible to use even a powerful and high-quality vacuum cleaner for cleaning the workshop. The main structural elements are:

A flange-type electric motor is installed, the power of which is only 3.5 kW.
To discharge the air, a fan with a robust and resistant to mechanical impact impeller is installed. It must be large enough to generate the thrust required.
The cyclone is designed to purify the air that will be thrown out. Its device is designed to filter large elements.
The multi-stage filter significantly increases the efficiency of the procedure. This is due to the fact that at the initial stage, large elements are separated, after which small ones are separated. Multi-stage cleaning can significantly extend the life of the filter and improve its efficiency.
The lower cyclone is designed for direct chip intake.
A collection bag made of durable material is intended for temporary storage of shavings and other debris, which have been separated from the passing air stream.

High-quality models have a sealed case, which is sheathed with sound-absorbing panels. To control a cyclone-type chip suction, an electrical or mechanical unit is placed; to connect a corrugated hose with a nozzle, there must be a special hole.

It is not difficult to make a cyclone-type chip sucker with your own hands, since it in many ways resembles an ordinary vacuum cleaner with a large number of filter elements and high power. The device of the cyclone of woodworking is characterized by high reliability, subject to the recommendations for operation, the device will last for a long time.

Design features

In most cases, when self-manufacturing a cyclone-type chip sucker, a small and medium-capacity motor is installed, which can be powered from a standard 220V network.

More powerful units are supplied with three-phase motors, with the power supply of which in domestic conditions there are quite a lot of difficulties.

Among the design features, it should be noted that the impeller is installed to provide a spiral vortex of the air flow. In this case, heavy particles are dumped into a special container, after which centrifugal force again lifts the air to remove it.

Preparatory work

When making a structure with your own hands, you can significantly save money, however, some mechanisms still cannot be assembled on their own. An example is the most suitable motor and impeller. The preparatory stage includes the following actions:

Formation of an action plan for the assembly of homemade equipment.
Search for a suitable electric motor, check its condition.
Selection of other mechanisms that cannot be made by hand.

In a carpentry workshop, much that is required to create a cyclone-type chip suction can be made by hand.

Tools

A wide variety of tools may be required depending on the circuit chosen. The simplest way is to make the outer casing of wood. It is to it that other elements will be connected. The recommended set of tools is as follows:

Indicator and multimeter.
Chisel and other tools for working with wood.
Screwdriver and various screwdrivers, hammer.

The simplicity of the design means that it can be made with the most common tools.

Materials and fasteners

The created device must be light and airtight, and also withstand the pressure exerted by the vortex of air. To make it you will need:

The body can be assembled from plywood, which is about 4 mm thick. Due to this, the structure will be durable and lightweight.
Other parts will also require different thicknesses of wood.
Polycarbonate.
The filter can be taken from an injection-type VAZ. Such a filter is cheap and will last quite a long time.
The motor can be removed from the old powerful vacuum cleaner, the impeller will be mounted on the output shaft.
To connect the main elements, you will need screws, self-tapping screws, bolts with nuts, as well as a sealant.

After finding everything you need, you can start doing the work.

Making a cyclone filter

As noted earlier, it is quite difficult to make a filter; it is best to purchase a cheap ready-made version. However, it will also require a sealed seat.

The seat is also made of wood. In this case, the main thing is to choose the right diameter of the outlet opening correctly, since too small will lead to a decrease in the throughput. There is no need to attach the filter, it is enough to create a block for it that will ideally fit in its dimensions.

Create anchor ring and shaped insert

Wooden rings are required to hold the polycarbonate in place when making the case. They must have an inner diameter that provides the required volume of the storage tank. Between the two retaining rings, there will be vertical bars that hold the polycarbonate sheets.

You can make such rings in your home workshop if you have the appropriate skills and equipment. At the same time, do not forget that they must have high strength.

Installing the retaining ring

You can start assembling the case by placing the locking wheels and polycarbonate sheets. Among the features of this stage, the following points can be noted:

Sheets are fixed on both sides with planks.
The connection is made using self-tapping screws.
To increase the sealing in the lower and upper ring, slots are created for the sheets, after the installation of which the seams are sealed with a sealant.

After assembling the body, you can start installing other structural elements.

Installing the side pipe

In order to eliminate the likelihood of rupture of the structure due to clogging of the filter element, a side branch pipe with a safety valve is installed. For this, a hole is created in the polycarbonate sheet, which is closed on both sides by the body of the safety pipe.

A rubber gasket should be placed between the wooden planks and the wall, you can increase the degree of sealing by using a sealant. The element is fastened to the body with bolts and nuts.

Top entry setting

Swarf and air are sucked in from the top of the structure. To accommodate the upper input, a small body is created in which a branch pipe from an old vacuum cleaner is located.

Using a special fitting ensures a secure fixation of the suction hose, which, moreover, can be quickly removed if necessary. That is why you should not make it yourself.

Installing curly insert

A shaped insert is also required to connect the inlet. It must be positioned so that air and particles can flow easily.

As a rule, a figured rate is located opposite the fan, due to which the swirl of the air flow is carried out. It is best to seal the seams with a sealant, which will increase the insulation of the structure.

Assembling the cyclone filter

After creating a housing for placing the filter, it must be installed in its place. It should be borne in mind that inside there will also be electronic elements that provide power to the electric motor.

Another branch pipe is diverted from the outer part of the cyclone filter housing. It will be required to divert the air flow.

Chip suction selection principles and major manufacturers

A fairly large number of different companies are engaged in the production of cyclone-type chip suckers. At the same time, the principle of operation of the device does not differ, only the power and reliability of the structure increase.

The most popular are cyclone-type chip suckers of foreign brands, domestic ones are cheaper, but they serve much less.

From the very beginning of my work in the workshop, I faced the problem of removing dust after work. The only way to clean up the floor was to sweep it. But because of this, an incredible amount of dust rose into the air, which settled in a tangible layer on furniture, on machines, on tools, in the hair and in the lungs. The concrete floor in the workshop exacerbated the problem. Some solution was spraying water before sweeping and using a respirator. However, these are only half measures. Water freezes in an unheated room in winter and you have to carry it with you, in addition, the water-dust mixture on the floor is difficult to collect and it also does not contribute to the hygiene of the workplace. The respirator, firstly, does not block all 100% of the dust, some part is still inhaled, and secondly, it does not protect against dust settling on the environment. And not all the nooks and crannies can be crawled through with a broom to pick out small debris and sawdust from there.

In such a situation, the most effective solution would be to vacuum the room.

However, using a household vacuum cleaner will not work. Firstly, it will have to be cleaned every 10-15 minutes of work (especially if you work on a milling table). Secondly, as the dust container fills up, the suction efficiency decreases. Thirdly, the amount of dust, which greatly exceeds the calculated values, will greatly affect the resource of the vacuum cleaner. You need something more specialized here.

There are many ready-made solutions for dust removal in the workshop, however, their cost, especially in light of the 2014 crisis, does not make them too affordable. On thematic forums, I found an interesting solution - to use a cyclone filter in conjunction with an ordinary household vacuum cleaner. All of the above problems of household vacuum cleaners are solved by removing dirt and dust from the air to a standard vacuum cleaner dust collector. Some collect cyclone filters from traffic cones, others from sewer pipes, and still others from plywood and whatever imagination is enough for. But I decided to buy a ready-made filter with fasteners.

The principle of operation is simple - the air flow is twisted in a conical filter housing and dust is removed from the air by centrifugal force. In this case, the dust falls through the bottom hole into the container under the filter, and the cleaned air comes out through the top hole into the vacuum cleaner.

One of the most common problems with cyclones is the so-called "roundabout". This is a situation when dirt and sawdust do not fall into the dust collection container, but endlessly swirl inside the filter. This situation arises from too high a speed of the air flow generated by the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. It is necessary to reduce the speed a little and the "carousel" will disappear. In principle, it does not interfere - the next portion of garbage pushes most of the "carousel" into the container and takes its place. And in the second model of plastic cyclones this carousel practically does not exist. To eliminate air leakage, I missed the junction of the filter with the lid with hot glue.

I decided to take a larger container for collecting dust so that it was less often necessary to take out the garbage. I bought a barrel of 127 liters, produced, it seems, in Samara - the size is what you need! I am going to carry the barrel to the trash like a grandmother string bag - on another cart, so as not to overstrain.

Next is the choice of layout. Some people install the dust collector stationary and lead the ducts to the machines. Others simply place a vacuum cleaner and a barrel next to each other and drag them to the desired location. I wanted to make a mobile installation on wheels to move everything around the workshop in one block.
I have a rather small workshop and the issue of saving space is very relevant. Therefore, I decided to choose an arrangement in which the barrel, filter and vacuum cleaner are located one above the other, taking up a minimum area. It was decided to cook the body of the installation from metal. A frame made of a shaped pipe determines the dimensions of the future installation.

With a vertical arrangement, there is a possibility of overturning. To reduce this likelihood, you need to weight the base as much as possible. For this, a 50x50x5 corner was chosen as the material for the base, which took almost 3.5 meters.

The tangible weight of the trolley is compensated by the presence of swivel wheels. There were thoughts, if the structure is not stable enough, to pour lead shot or sand into the cavity of the frame. But this was not required.

In order to achieve the verticality of the rods, it was necessary to use ingenuity. The recently purchased vice came in handy. Thanks to such simple equipment, it was possible to achieve accurate setting of the corners.

It is convenient to move the trolley, holding on to the vertical rods, therefore, strengthened their attachment points. In addition, this is an additional, albeit not large, weighting of the base. In general, I like reliable things with a margin of safety.

The barrel will be fixed in the installation frame with clamps.

In the upper part of the boom there is a platform for a vacuum cleaner. Further, holes will be drilled in the corners at the bottom and wooden planks will be fixed with self-tapping screws.

That is, in fact, the whole frame. It seems to be nothing complicated, but for some reason it took four evenings to assemble it. On the one hand, I didn’t seem to be in a hurry, I worked at my own pace, trying to complete each stage efficiently. But on the other hand, low productivity is associated with the lack of heating in the workshop. Goggles and a welded face mask quickly fog up, impairing visibility, and bulky outerwear restricts movement. But the task is completed. In addition, there are only a couple of weeks left until spring.

I really didn't want to leave the frame like this. I wanted to paint it. But on all cans of paint that I found in the store it is written that they can be used at temperatures not lower than +5, and on some even not lower than +15. The thermometer in the workshop shows -3. How to be?
I read thematic forums. People write that you can safely paint even in frost, as long as the paint is not water-based and there is no condensation on the parts. And if the paint is with a hardener, then do not steam at all.
I found an old, slightly thickened Hammerayt jar in the zagashniki, which I used to paint a horizontal bar in the summer cottage -. The paint is quite expensive, so I decided to test it in extreme conditions. Instead of the expensive original solvent, Hammerayt added some regular degreaser to it to make it a little thinner, stirred it to the desired consistency and began to paint.
In the summer, this paint dried in one hour. It is difficult to say how much it dried in winter, but when I returned to the workshop the next evening the paint was dry. True without the promised hammer effect. Probably, the degreaser is to blame, and not the negative temperature. Otherwise, no other problems were found. The coating both looks and feels reliable. Perhaps it is not in vain that this paint costs almost 2,500 rubles in the store.

The cyclone body is made of good plastic and has fairly thick walls. But the attachment of the filter to the barrel lid is rather flimsy - four self-tapping screws screwed into the plastic. In this case, significant lateral loads can occur on the hose, which is attached directly to the filter. Therefore, the fastening of the filter to the barrel must be strengthened. The people have different approaches to solving this problem. Basically, they assemble an additional stiffening frame for the filter. The designs are very diverse, but the idea is something like this:

I approached this somewhat differently. A holder for pipes of a suitable diameter was welded onto one of the rods.

In this holder, I clamp the hose, which is responsible for all the twists and jerks. Thus, the filter housing is protected from any stress. Now the unit can be pulled straight behind the hose without fear of damage.

I decided to fix the barrel with lashing straps. When I was choosing locks in a hardware store, I made an interesting observation. A five-meter tightening strap with a foreign-made ratchet lock cost me 180 rubles, and a naked Russian-made "frog" lock lying next to it would cost me 250 rubles. This is where the triumph of domestic engineering and high technologies lies.

Experience has shown that this mounting method has an important advantage. The fact is that on the forums dedicated to these filters they write that barrels, like mine, when connecting a powerful vacuum cleaner, can be crushed due to the vacuum that occurs when the inlet hose is clogged. Therefore, during testing, I deliberately blocked the hole of the hose and the barrel shrank under the influence of the vacuum. But thanks to the very tight grip of the clamps, the barrel did not shrink completely, but only in one place below the hoop there was a dent. And when I turned off the vacuum cleaner, the dent itself straightened with a click.

In the upper part of the unit there is a platform for a vacuum cleaner

As a household vacuum cleaner, I acquired a bagless, almost two kilowatt monster. I was just thinking, and at home this would be useful to me.
Buying a vacuum cleaner on the ad ran into some inexplicable human stupidity and greed. The people sell used things without a guarantee, with a depleted part of the resource, defects in appearance at prices lower than store prices by some 15-20 percent. And okay, it would be some kind of common things, but used vacuum cleaners! Judging by the term of placing ads, this trade sometimes drags on for years. And one has only to start bargaining and call an adequate price, as you come across rudeness and misunderstanding.
As a result, after a couple of days I still found an excellent option for myself for 800 rubles. Well-known brand, 1900 watts, built-in cyclone filter (already the second in my system) and another fine filter.
I couldn’t think of anything more elegant to fasten it than to press it down with a lashing strap. In principle, it holds securely.

I had to be a little clever with the connection of the hoses. As a result, we have such an installation. And it works!

Usually, when you read reviews from the first use of such gizmos, people are choking with delight. Here is something similar and I experienced it when I first turned it on. It's no joke - vacuuming in the workshop! Where everyone walks in street shoes, where metal shavings and sawdust fly everywhere!

I have never seen this concrete floor, which is impossible to sweep due to the dust stuck in the pores, so clean. Persistent attempts to sweep it lead only to an increase in the density of dust in the air. And such purity was given to me for a couple of light movements! I didn't even have to wear a respirator!

We managed to collect in the barrel what was left after the previous cleaning with a broom. During the operation of the device, due to the translucency of the filter, it is possible to observe streams of dust swirling inside. There was also dust in the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner, but there was an insignificant amount of it and these were especially light and volatile fractions.

I am very pleased with the result. There will be no more dust storms in the workshop. We can say that I am entering a new era.

Advantages of my design:
1. Takes up the minimum area, due only to the diameter of the barrel.
2. The unit can be dragged and pulled by the hose without fear of pulling out the filter.
3. The drum is protected from crushing when the inlet is clogged.

After some time of using the installation, I still faced the problem of lack of barrel rigidity.
I got a more powerful vacuum cleaner. Household, but sucks like a beast - sucks in stones, nuts, screws, tears off the plaster and pulls out bricks from the masonry))
This vacuum cleaner slammed the blue barrel even without clogging the inlet hose! The tight girth of the barrel with clamps did not help. I didn't have a camera with me, it's a pity. But it looks like this:

On the thematic forums, they warn about such a possibility, but still I did not expect this. With great difficulty, he straightened the barrel and sent it, pretty crumpled, to the dacha to store the water. She is not capable of more.

There were two ways out of this situation:
1. Buy a metal barrel instead of a plastic one. But I need to find a barrel of a very specific size so that it fits exactly into my setup - diameter 480, height 800. A surface search on the Internet did not give any result.
2. Self-assembly a box of the required size from 15 mm plywood. This is more real.

The box was assembled on self-tapping screws. Sealed the joints with double-sided foam tape.

The cart had to be altered a little - to digest the rear clamp for a square tank.

The new tank, in addition to strength and increased volume due to right angles, has another important advantage - a wide neck. This allows a waste bag to be placed in the tank. It greatly simplifies unloading and makes it an order of magnitude cleaner (tied the bag right in the tank and took it out and threw it away without dust). The old barrel did not allow this.

The cover was sealed with foamed insulation for windows

The lid is held in place by four frog locks. They create the necessary interference to seal the lid on the foam gasket. A little higher, I wrote about the pricing policy for these frog locks. But I had to fork out.

It turned out well. Nice, functional, reliable. How I love.

Very often, during installation work with an electrician, it is impossible to do without a vacuum cleaner. This is primarily due to the processes of wall chipping.

You cannot use home household models for this business, otherwise you will ditch them on the very first day of work. Their dust collectors will fill up very quickly, and the vacuum cleaner itself will overheat.

Buying a construction one, which costs quite a lot of money, can only be afforded by professional craftsmen who earn daily with this type of activity.

But what if you are not a builder and you only need such a device to complete the electrical repair in your apartment? The optimal way out in this case is one - to independently make a construction vacuum cleaner from an ordinary one.

Moreover, in time, such a rework will take you only a few minutes. And the materials that are required for this can be easily found in the pantry, or bought in addition at the nearest plumbing store.

Let's take a closer look at two very similar methods, which nevertheless have structural differences between themselves.

Homemade cyclone from a household vacuum cleaner

The first method has been presented on the Internet and on YouTube for quite some time. You can easily find many rollers with similar homemade cyclones.

However, they cause quite natural questions and skepticism among professional builders. Therefore, you should immediately make a reservation that they are mostly suitable for cleaning wood shavings.

But it is better not to work with cement dust with such devices. The second option is more "sharpened" for it.

The main "trick" that will allow you to easily suck in kilograms of garbage, wood, metal sawdust and at the same time not worry about the frequent change of filter bags, is a homemade "separator".

It will then need to be constructed from several components. For the entire assembly you will need:

A bucket from Shitrok putty is best suited here. It is harder to flatten it with a vacuum.

First of all, drill or carefully cut a through hole for the tube in the center of the bucket lid.

Mark the third hole closer to the edges of the lid, where the stiffener is.

If you do not have a special crown, then first pierce the marked circle with an awl and carefully cut it with a clerical knife.

The edges will be uneven, but they can be cut with a round file.

Two sewer outlets are inserted into these holes. So that they are securely held and there is no additional air leak, it is better to glue them.

To do this, first sand the edges of the tube with sandpaper or a file to create a rough surface.

Do the same operation with the lid.

After that, insert the tubes into the inside of the lid and apply a thick layer of glue with a heat gun.

Do not spare glue. This will help create a good seal in these places and tightly close all the cracks.

There is, however, another option in which you can do without glue and fan pipes at all. To do this, purchase rubber transition couplings from Leroy Merlin.

They come in different diameters. Match your hose size.

For example, a tube from a 35mm hose is tightly inserted into the 40/32 coupling. But in a 40mm pipe, it will dangle. We'll have to wind up and farm something.

On the tube that is located on the edge of the lid, put on a 90-degree sewer outlet.

On this, the design of the separator can be said to be almost ready. Install the lid with taps on the bucket.

The air intake hose from the vacuum cleaner is inserted into the center hole.

And the piece with which you will collect all the debris and dust is stuck into the corner joint.

It is desirable that there are O-rings in the tubes according to the size of the corrugated hoses of the vacuum cleaner.

This completes the entire assembly. You can plug in the vacuum cleaner and use it.

Here is a visual video of the inside of a bucket of a similar design. It clearly shows how sawdust is sucked into the separator, but cannot escape from it and get into the vacuum cleaner.

The principle of operation is as follows. The coarse dust sucked into the container falls to the bottom of the container. At the same time, it does not fall into the zone where air is pumped out directly.

Three factors help in this matter:

gravity

friction

centrifugal force

They then make the garbage rotate inside the bucket, pressing against its walls, and then fall to the bottom. And only the small fraction goes directly to the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner.

Typically, such a cyclone in factory designs has the shape of a cone, but cylindrical specimens also often do a good job with this task.

True, the higher the bucket is, the better the installation will work. Much here depends on the correct pairing of the container design and the power of the vacuum cleaner. Here is a plate from Chinese cyclones on the correct selection of the diameter of the hoses and the power of the units.

In cylindrical buckets, the tangential air flow is entered not through a curved side wall, but through a flat lid. It is much easier to assemble such a device.

Also, if you have more than one bucket, you can use them one at a time. Just remove the cover from one and move it to the other. Moreover, this is even easier to do than in bulky cyclones.

If you have a powerful vacuum cleaner, instead of a plastic bucket from under the emulsion paint, it is better to use a metal tank of the same shape. Otherwise, the bucket will collapse and flatten it.

The power regulator helps out in this matter. If it is of course present in your model.

Why does the vacuum cleaner still fail?

With this method, all fine dust will enter the vacuum cleaner bag, and more or less large fractions will simply settle and remain in the bucket. As self-made women assure, more than 95% of construction waste settles in the separator and only 5% goes directly to the dust collector of a household vacuum cleaner.

However, the fact is that even these 5% are capable of gradually killing the vacuum cleaner. In addition, even for industrial cyclones, the declared efficiency is rarely more than 90%, but what can we say about hand-made products, in which aerodynamics are far from perfect.

For 100% collection of fines, an electrostatic precipitator or bubble column is needed.

By the way, from some types of dust, a very strong static voltage appears. Be careful when working.

The longer you work with the unit without disconnecting it from the mains, the higher the charge can be. Here's an instructive commentary from one real user of such a homemade product.

Therefore, on many cyclones, even factory assembled, the flange is grounded.

Five percent of small wood shavings are certainly not scary for a household vacuum cleaner. And what if it is fine cement dust when chipping?

When such particles get inside, they clog the filter tightly.

And it happens very quickly. The entire efficiency of the "cyclone" in a matter of minutes drops by at least 2/3.

The main problem is the dust bag. It is dense and the filtration area is small. Therefore, it is not suitable for plaster and concrete wall waste.

What to do? Can't you do without a real construction device? With intensive work, only an expensive and professional tool really saves.

What is the difference between a construction vacuum cleaner and a conventional one

But for work from time to time, this design can be slightly modified and improved. Idea belongs to Shaiter Andrey.

Before we consider the second design option, ask yourself the question: "What is one of the main differences between household and construction vacuum cleaners?"

In household models, cooling occurs due to the intake air.

That is, you are vacuuming the floor, the air sucks in the debris. Further, it is filtered and the engine itself is cooled. Then the air is thrown out.

Hence the entire risk of engine damage follows. First, when the filter becomes clogged, the cooling of the engine drops sharply.

Secondly, cement dust is 100% not retained in the dust collector, and part of it flies through the windings, removing varnish insulation along the way like emery. Such dispersed dust kills everything rubbing and spinning.

Adding water to the bottom of the tank doesn't help much. Instead of dust, you get a lot of dirt, the weight of the bucket, and the filters will still eventually clog.

In professional devices, the engine is cooled separately, through special technological holes. Therefore, they are not so afraid of bags full of garbage.

Moreover, they also have automatic cleaning or shaking.

In order to remake the household model according to the mind, you will need a little more spare parts than in the first case.

A working version of a construction vacuum cleaner from a household

The main additional element here is a filter bag made of non-woven material. Instances from Karcher are very suitable - article 2.863-006.0

Actually, this filter is disposable. Your task is to make a reusable item out of it.

To do this, cut its lower part and fold it a little, slightly reducing the width (up to 22cm).

Further, this lower part must be closed with a special closure. You make it from two elements of a plastic cable channel and a piece of polypropylene pipe.

Saw the tube lengthwise, with a slot width of about 5mm.

Apply them with the back to the fabric at the bottom.

Then insert the prepared tube through the slot.

As a result, you get a reusable filter bag from a disposable filter. And much larger than the one installed inside the household model.

Next, you go through the previously discussed steps to modernize the bucket. Drill holes in the lid and insert rubber corrugated adapters into them.

One will be for connecting the filter bag, the other for the hose. Select the dimensions according to the diameters of your devices.

Here you can do without funnel pipes and corners. Next, put on the plastic insert from the reusable filter to the adapter.

It remains to tightly close the lid on the bucket. The structure is ready to go.

Although it is similar, it differs from the above first option. After you turn on the unit and start sucking in the garbage, it is the homemade reusable dust collector that will collect all the muck and dirt.

Dust will not fly around like in the previous case. On the contrary, the given bag from the flow of air will inflate inside the bucket.

Gradually, it will be filled with both heavy and small fractions that could have been passed by the cyclone.

However, do not forget about clogging the walls of the reusable filter and reducing the draft of the cooling air flow. In order not to burn the engine of a household vacuum cleaner, it is necessary to carry out one more measure.

How not to burn a household vacuum cleaner

Most modern models have a built-in safety valve. It shows when the filters are already clogged and at this moment an additional air flow opens.

True, this is already considered an emergency. Your task is not to wait for the moment when this valve is triggered, but to use a slightly different trick.

Some devices have a draft regulator directly on the handle in the form of a hole that opens or closes. It should be opened just the same for any type of work.

If you do not have such a factory regulator, you can drill a small additional hole with a diameter of 12mm in the bucket lid itself.

Well, and most importantly, do not forget that any household vacuum cleaner, no matter how you upgrade it, has a certain period of continuous operation. Be sure to record the start time and do not operate longer than the prescribed period.

That is, just pause. Just to shake a homemade filter. And he just shakes himself with the bucket.

When the dust container is substantially full, open the bucket lid and gently pull the tube out of the guides at the bottom of the bag.

It will open up and the debris with dust can be removed. After that, collect the entire structure back and work on.

The normal functioning of the bag is enough for about three full fillings. After that, the cement dust in the fabric itself begins to strongly inhibit the air flow.

You will either have to replace the filter with a new one, or not just shake it, but thoroughly clean it of any fine debris and continue working as if nothing had happened.