What material are houses built from? What is the cheapest material for building a house? Measures for additional thermal insulation

gas silicate blocks, aerated concrete blocks, wood concrete, foam concrete, sawdust concrete - there are many building materials and technologies on the market. But which of them will allow you to build a really inexpensive, functional and reliable housing?

The development of technologies is more related to monolithic and frame construction. If you pay attention to frame technologies, effective are LSTK-structures, with thin walls made on the basis of a steel profile.

The finished object is distinguished by low weight, high strength, and the absence of "cold bridges". On the basis of LSTC, it is possible to successfully conduct low-rise residential construction of townhouses, cottages and other low-rise buildings (up to three floors). The cost of the finished object will be 13 tr/m² and more.

In forest-deficient areas, it makes sense to lighten the weight of the roof by reducing the power of the truss system. This is not only economical, but will also affect the choice of the type of bearing base.

The first step to effective construction should be the analysis of traditional housing, which is being built in a particular climatic region. Such functional and technological properties are optimal and economical.

Monolithic construction involves the installation of removable or fixed formwork, pouring concrete (heavy / light - to choose from), erecting a roof. Price finished house from concrete with their own hands on fixed formwork starts from 8 tr/m², on a removable one - a little cheaper.

One more the way to build a cheap house is to use wooden bricks. The material is made on the basis of solid wood. Each module is equipped with a four-sided lock, which eliminates shrinkage and blowing. Construction of the house will take 2-8 weeks. Manufacturers offer the most cheap wooden pine brick at a cost of 470 USD/m³, from which it is easy to calculate the cost of costs, knowing the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls.

Aerated concrete blocks - which is cheaper

Advantages and disadvantages of blocks made of different types concrete, are considered in tabular data:

Block type	pros	Minuses	Price
Polystyrene concrete (concrete with polystyrene balls)	Warm, light, very cheap material allowing you to quickly build housing. Blocks can be made by yourself, which contributes to greater savings.	Serious flaws with geometry will cause problems with finishing. Blocks are sensitive to ground movements, which can cause cracks to form. This is a great option for outbuildings - cheap, warm.	The price starts from 3.1 t.r./m³
Arbolite (concrete with wood chips)	You can safely consider all the previous advantages, but the wood concrete is more flexible due to the wood content. It is less prone to cracking	Walls should not be overloaded, finishing should be started as early as possible (along the facade), and wetting should be avoided during construction.	From 4.8 tr/m³
Aerated concrete (sand, lime, cement, water, blowing agent)	Ideal geometry, environmental friendliness, minimum glue consumption, absence of cold bridges (with rare exceptions), ease of processing	When finishing, there may be problems with fasteners. During the construction of even a one-story house, one cannot do without the arrangement of monolithic belts. In terms of strength, lightweight concrete is inferior to monolith, but is optimal for private construction.	Considering the pros and cons of aerated concrete blocks, the price of 3.6 - 4.7 tr / m³ should be taken into account
Foam concrete (water, cement, sand, foaming agent)	A house made of foam concrete does not require a deep foundation, the material is easy to process, allows you to quickly implement masonry, which perfectly protects against wind, noise and frost	Building houses from foam blocks can be costly due to the fragility of the material - there is a fight during transportation, masonry. If you do not lay a reliable foundation, hay can crack	2-4 tr/m³ (depending on dimensions and production technology)

Based on the tabular data, it can be seen that the cheapest building material for building a house is aerated concrete, foam concrete. Expanded clay concrete block is also on sale, but it is much more expensive. Sawdust concrete is in the same price category with foam concrete.

The production of cellular and porous blocks is progressing. A house made of gas silicate on two floors, lined with siding, can be considered typical. Ready project is easy to choose online

natural wood

Considering all the possibilities of choice, it is impossible not to mention natural wood. This is the most environmentally friendly material that allows you to create durable housing. The construction of houses from logs or timber is based on cheap load-bearing bases., - columnar, shallow. You can build a house quickly, and finishing is not difficult.

However, neither the bar nor the log meets the modern requirements of thermal protection. It is cold in a house made of timber, that is, additional insulation is required. There is a special material with insulation, but they are much more expensive. In addition, such a house burns easily.

wooden frame

How to build a house inexpensively? is a story about wooden frame. The master does not require special skills, a shallow-depth bearing base is enough. But, in such a house there is very poor sound insulation, environmental friendliness suffers due to the large amount of insulation rodents and insects are often present. Arrangement required supply and exhaust ventilation. Extremely low resilience to natural disasters has also been noted.

Panel materials

In a few weeks, you can build a house based on reinforced concrete panels. After the installation of the walls, you can proceed to the finishing work. The cost of the material is 9-15 tr / piece, which depends on its series and purpose. Used wall material may be on sale, but it is not recommended to purchase it.

Sandwich panels allow you to build a house in a matter of months. The material is produced in accordance with standard designs at factories, therefore it is monotonous. If you follow the installation technology, you can get an excellent summer house, cottage, outbuildings.

Additional materials

When deciding what is the cheapest material for building a house, one should not forget about other structural elements.

The larger the house in terms of area, the higher its cost and costs in man-hours. By choosing a successful project, you can build good housing quite cheaply.

To save money, you can pay attention to the following recommendations:

• the cheapest roof is covered with ondulin, corrugated board, roofing material, wave slate;
• inexpensive windows can be equipped both from wood and from metal-plastic. The same applies to door frames. If wood is used, it must be softwood;
• the most economical material for finishing the building is flat slate, however, it is better to cover it with paint. In the economy class, plaster, tiles, facing bricks are appropriate;
• for interior work, you can use lining, which can be cut independently from unedged boards 25 mm;
• as an alternative, you can consider buying a plastic lining, however, it does not have a high coefficient of thermal expansion, which imposes certain restrictions;
• an inexpensive house is not too hard, so the finish of the fiberboard is questionable, the seams may crack;
• building a house on one floor does not require the cost of lifting mechanisms, scaffolding, extra helpers;
• do not be afraid of purchasing from domestic manufacturers. All materials, from metal trusses to various types of insulation, are no worse than imported analogues;
• it must be understood that a certain part of the materials that are somehow involved in construction can be made by hand. For example, do-it-yourself plasticizer for concrete.

Do you need a quote to build a house?

When choosing from which material it is cheaper to build a house, it is worth relying on the actual conditions of construction and the purpose of the object. The most cost-effective work relates to the construction of summer cottages, garden houses, that is, seasonal residences. If you plan to equip a place for permanent residence, you should expect an increase in costs, albeit insignificant.

Payment estimated cost will optimize the progress of work, which will eliminate disruptions in the flow of building materials to the construction site. When choosing even the cheapest building material, it is important to know how much of it will be required and what will be the cost of its purchase.

An enterprising person found an unusual, cheapest building material for building a house:

As you know, the comfort of staying in a suburban area largely depends on how cozy and comfortable the house will be. Often the question arises, which house is better to build in the country, so that the cost of the project is democratic, and the result obtained is as good as possible. We will consider several basic options, but we will dwell in detail on the version of the frame house, since it is easiest to build it with your own hands.

The main types of country houses

To decide which option is best for you, you should consider the features of each of them:

Modular option	This includes country houses from block containers, which are the easiest to build. You only need to build a strip or column foundation, and put it on it with a crane finished module. The disadvantages include the monotony of buildings and their not big size in addition, the price of the finished version is much higher than that of the one assembled independently.
Frame house	One of the most popular solutions due to a number of advantages, the main of which are: a very affordable cost of the project, ease of work, assembly instructions may seem complicated, but if you understand it, then all questions will disappear by themselves. In addition, using this option, you can build a structure of any size and configuration.
Timber structure	Another widespread option, which has an attractive appearance and environmental friendliness, so that it fits into the countryside environment as well as possible. Assembling a building requires a certain qualification, so it is better to involve specialists, especially since the cost of the structure is quite high, and any mistakes are fraught with considerable costs.
Buildings made of bricks and blocks	These materials are most often used in the construction of capital buildings. The advantages include strength and durability, the disadvantages are the need to build a massive base, the laboriousness of construction (at least the skills of a bricklayer are needed) and the rather high cost of the project. In addition, many people associate country houses with a tree, so such options are not even considered initially.

Features of building a house using frame technology

Consider how to build an inexpensive country house with your own hands.

It is very important to prepare well for the work, the following activities can be attributed to this stage:

• To begin with, a specific project is selected to clearly represent the scope of work and the required amount of materials.
• Further, all required materials are purchased, while you should purchase everything with a small margin, since the actual consumption most often exceeds the planned one.
• Another important issue is the acquisition of all necessary tool : from shovels and hammers to concrete mixers and chainsaws. If there is no electricity on the site, then renting a diesel generator for a summer residence will help solve the problem.

Foundation

Without a doubt, a very important part of the work, since the strength and durability of the entire structure directly depends on the foundation, any subsidence leads to cracks and even the destruction of walls and ceilings.

You can build one of the following options:

• Pillar foundation.
• Tape base.
• Slab foundation.

Each of these options has its pros and cons, we will consider the tape type of the base:

• First of all, a trench is dug, the depth and width of which depends on the type of soil and the weight of the future structure. Usually the width is 30-40 centimeters.
• It is better to pour a gravel pillow at the bottom, which will also carry a drainage function, the walls of the pit should be even and not crumble.
• Formwork is placed on top, but if the outer part of the base is laid out from dembler blocks, then the formwork can be minimal, the main thing is that the level of the foundation is even, this will facilitate masonry work later.
• After the foundation has solidified (at least a week should pass), you can proceed to further work. The upper end of the foundation is closed with glass isol or two layers of roofing material, this will prevent the penetration of moisture into the building through the capillaries in the concrete.

Advice!
Do not forget about the ventilation holes in, the entire space must be ventilated, otherwise mold will begin to form on the structures over time.

Basement

Consideration of the question of how to build a country house continues with such a stage as the installation of the basement, this stage of work is carried out as follows:

• For the overlapping device, a beam with a section of at least 100x150 mm is used, and more can be, it all depends on the design features.
• The elements are interconnected either with threaded studs or special screws with a diameter of 10-12 mm and a length of 25-30 cm.

Advice!
Along the bottom edge of the strapping, you can attach a draft floor with any convenient way and lay foam or mineral wool on it, so you can.

Walls

We are considering how to build a country house ourselves, but in fact, you can’t do without a few helpers, especially at the stage of installing the frame of future walls, because you need to hold each element and carefully adjust its position before fastening.

The work is carried out as follows:

• Fastening elements is best done using modern fasteners: corners of perforated tapes, brackets and mounting plates. In addition to convenience and high speed of work, these elements guarantee the reliability of all connections, the main thing is to choose the right fasteners.
• Racks are set to the width of the insulation, so you simplify further work. Particular attention should be paid to the perfectly precise position of the corner elements.
• From below, the elements are attached to the harness, another beam is laid on top and the system is fastened, and crossbars are also used to increase strength.
• Next, you should take care of strengthening the structure, most often this is achieved using struts and braces. With their help, rigidity increases significantly.

truss system

Another important stage at which the future roof is being built, the following work is carried out within this stage:

• First of all, a detailed system design is drawn up so that you can imagine what work will have to be done.

• Based on the scheme, materials and fasteners are purchased, boards can be used for small roofs, and timber for more massive ones.
• The assembly is carried out carefully, each element is carefully fastened, at the end the whole system is interconnected.

Sheathing and roofing

Outside, the walls are sheathed as follows:

• A board 25mm thick can be used and is best fixed at a 45 degree angle for best strength.
• You can also use a simpler option - moisture resistant plates, so the work will be carried out much faster.
• For laying the roof, a lathing device will be required, while its type depends on which coating will be used. For slate and ondulin, a crate is required, and for a soft roof, metal tiles and other similar options, a solid flooring made of moisture-resistant materials.

• Mounting is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, usually this process is simple.

Inner lining

Lastly, a heater is laid, which is closed with a vapor barrier material.

Sheathing can be different:

• You can use wooden lining or decorative panels of various types.
• Another option is to mount moisture resistant drywall or other durable materials that can later be puttied and painted or finished in any other way.

We hope you have decided which house to build in the country, and what technologies to use. It's only short plan works, since the description of any of the stages will take an entire article (all works are described separately in other articles on the portal).

Output

A house in the country should be not only attractive from the outside, but also practical from the inside. Therefore, do not be lazy and find a really high-quality and thoughtful project. The video in this article will clearly show the features of some work.

After acquiring a suburban area for a summer residence, the question of how to build a country house with your own hands becomes relevant. Well, to build it yourself is quite possible, unless, of course, a huge “palace” is conceived, requiring the involvement of construction equipment and a team of professionals.

Usually for giving are chosen compact buildings, but, nevertheless, the house must have everything you need for rest - rooms, kitchen, veranda. The latter will become a favorite place for an evening pastime all family. It is very important to make the country house cozy and comfortable, so you need to think through all the nuances of its arrangement.

The optimal material for summer cottage construction is wood, and the principle of construction is a frame structure.

Of course, the first thing that will need to be done is to decide on the place and size of the building, draw up a project, and plan further work.

Proe kt of a small country house

The size of the future home largely depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe summer cottage, the number of family members and the material capabilities of the owners. If you plan correctly, draw up a successful project and choose an inexpensive but high-quality material for construction, you can save space, money and time.

In any case, the first steps are drafting

Most often, a country house has a size of 5.0 × 6.0 or 4.0 × 6.0 m. Buildings of a larger area are erected much less frequently, and, mainly, in those cases when they are planned to be operated year-round. But this is more likely to be not a country house, but a full-fledged country house.

The layout of the location of the house may have to be carried out on the basis of requirements that may be established by the board of the gardening partnership, therefore, when purchasing, you need to find out about such nuances in advance. Most often, the following distances are required:

• The house should be installed at a distance of 3 meters from the border of the neighboring site, and from the fence separating the site from the general passage (street) - at 5 meters.
• In order to ensure fire safety stone house from another stone structure they are placed at a distance of at least six meters, and from a wooden one - ten. If the house is wooden, then it should be installed at a distance of no closer than 15 meters from another wooden structure.
• So that the house does not cover neighboring buildings from sunlight, if it is placed on the eastern, southern or western side of the site, it is located at a distance from another residential building, at least equal to its height.

Usually to install country house choose the highest place in the area where water will not collect when snow melts or from heavy rains. High humidity under the house will never benefit any building material, but it will always negatively affect the overall strength and durability of the structure.

Most often, the following technologies for its construction are chosen for the construction of country houses: frame-panel construction, log cabins, walls made of blocks or bricks.

For summer cottages mainly projects of one-story houses with closed or open verandas, or terraces are selected. Often the building has an attic used to store garden tools and other things that seem unnecessary in everyday life, but which can always come in handy in the country. However, it also happens that in some projects there are no attic floor beams at all, and then the roof slopes also play the role of a ceiling.

If the family is large, and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plot is not as large as we would like, then you can plan a two-story house that takes up very little space at the base. In this case, the first floor can be given over to the living room, terrace and kitchen, and on the second floor - to arrange cozy sleeping places for the whole family.

Not necessarily in a country house, to build a full-fledged second floor, since an attic superstructure can perfectly fulfill its role. Having finished it with natural materials, you can create a wonderful healthy country atmosphere there.

Country houses are mainly used in the warm season, starting with the arrival of spring and ending in autumn. Therefore, they do not require enhanced insulation of walls and roofs, but devices for space heating should still be provided - in case of cold nights or a drop in temperature during unstable weather. Usually, electrical appliances are used as heaters, for example, convectors or infrared film emitters, but sometimes owners even prefer to install fireplaces or cast-iron heating and cooking stoves.

By the way, if the construction of a real fireplace or a brick oven is planned, then they must be included in the draft project.

There are also ready-made options for country houses, which are sold as a set in disassembled form, which you just need to deliver to the site and assemble. Any such set of parts must be accompanied detailed instructions, which set out the procedure for carrying out work, the main technological methods and connection diagrams of individual elements and assemblies.

For land owner, who has basic construction skills, it will not be difficult to assemble such a country house on your own. The main advantage of this option can be called the fact that often the kit already includes everything you need to electrical network buildings, for ventilation system and even for plumbing.

Video: a small, neat country house that lives up to its name

What type of house to choose?

Having decided on a rough plan for the future house, you need to choose the material for its construction. Not only the type of the building itself will depend on this choice, but also the comfort of staying in it, as well as the costs of its construction.

• traditional material for country house is wood, which will create a favorable microclimate in it, filling it with the smells of the forest. Wooden house can be built wireframe, from timber or logs. The disadvantage of wooden buildings is the high fire hazard of the material.

However, wooden houses have always been built, and many of them have stood for centuries. Today, special fire-retardant impregnations are on sale, which significantly reduce the risk of fire in wooden buildings. And in general - the most important thing here is not the material, but the human factor - precisely the neglect of elementary requirements by people fire safety In the vast majority of cases, it causes a fire.

• The construction of a brick structure will cost much more, but it can with great reason be called a full-fledged house, which can be used not only in the summer, but also, if necessary, in the winter, if you install a stove in it. Brick buildings are much less prone to fire and, with high-quality masonry, will last a very long time. Their disadvantages include a more complex and lengthy construction process, requiring special skills, and a high price for materials.

• Very often, when building a country house, different materials are used. For example, a house is built of wood, but on a foundation of concrete, brick or blocks.

This option can be called optimal, since the foundation of moisture-resistant materials will create optimal conditions for the construction of wood walls, thus becoming a reliable foundation for the house.

It is this last option that is worth considering, since it is the most popular of all types of country houses.

Stages of building a country house

Materials for building a country house

If there is no desire to mess around with calculations, then it is better to purchase a prefabricated model of a house that has a certain area, for which you will only need to prepare a place.

In all other cases, you will need to purchase building materials. Their type, size, volume, total number - all depending on the size of the planned building, which is determined by the project.

Prices on different kinds timber

foundation material

For any type of foundation you will need the following materials:

- sand, gravel, cement;

- third-rate board and timber for formwork;

- brick or concrete blocks;

- waterproofing material (roofing material);

- expanded clay of the middle fraction.

Wall and roof material

Since wood was chosen for the construction of walls, then, based on this, other materials will be selected:

- bars and boards of different sizes, depending on the design parameters;

- fasteners - nails, screws, bolts, studs;

- corners of different configurations, metal plates - for fastening knots;

- vapor barrier film;

- heater - mineral wool, ecowool or expanded clay;

- to cover the roof, it is better to choose a light material - ondulin or corrugated board.

After the installation site of the future house is determined, the materials are purchased, you can proceed to the arrangement of the foundation. True, to begin with, you still have to decide on its type.

The foundation of a country house

Even when building such a small and light building as a wooden country house, you can’t do without a foundation. In the case under consideration, one of two types is ideally suited for this purpose - it is columnar and strip foundation. Which one to choose depends on the preferences of the builder.

• The columnar foundation will be a less expensive option, as it will allow you to seriously save on building materials. In addition, such a foundation can be completed independently, without outside help which will also save you some money.

How to build correctly, you can find out with all the details by following this link to the corresponding page of our portal.

• To create a strip foundation, you will need not only more materials, but also a fairly long time. This is not surprising - a trench will need to be dug around the entire perimeter of the future house, waterproof it, install the reinforcing structure, build the formwork and fill the pit with concrete. And after that, whether you like it or not, it will also take a month until the filled tape completely solidifies and it gains brand strength.

However, the strip foundation is still very popular among individual developers. This option is convenient in that it allows you to make basement, however, for this, the foundation walls will have to be raised above the soil surface by 700 ÷ 800 mm. described in detail in the article, which can be found on our portal by clicking on the link provided.

If a columnar foundation is chosen, then it is recommended to remove the top layer of soil by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm from the site, which will be located under the house and around it by 500 ÷ 600 mm. Then fill in the resulting pit with a layer of sand of 30 ÷ 40 mm, which should be compacted. Above sand cushion layer is laid medium fraction crushed stone and is also compacted, and the remaining space must be covered with expanded clay of the middle fraction. All these procedures are done so that small rodents cannot get close to the house. They do not tolerate expanded clay (especially small ones), as it contains a large amount of dust and has a loose surface.

Expanded clay of fine fraction - an excellent remedy for rodents

To protect the house from the penetration of large rodents or other uninvited guests from the animal world, it is advisable to close the space under the house with a metal mesh with cells no larger than 10 mm.

Construction of a frame structure

For a country house, the best choice is a frame structure

The frame house can be placed both on a columnar and on a strip foundation. Construction always starts from the foundation, which must be securely waterproofed two or three layers of laid roofing material.

• If the project provides for a veranda, you must immediately separate its zone, over which a roof will be erected, but there will be no solid walls. To support the roof over the veranda, you can use the racks of the general frame of the walls. Another option - veranda will be attached to the house separately.
• Without exception, all wooden blanks must be treated with antiseptic compounds and fire retardants. These impregnations will increase the resistance of wood to fire, to decay, will prevent the appearance of nests of insects or colonies of representatives of microflora - mold or fungus.

• After the blanks have been properly prepared and completely dry, during construction, the lower frame (crown) is first made, which will be laid on the foundation and will subsequently be used to mount the floor.

For the floor to be reliable, for the frame it is necessary to take high-quality bars of the desired section. If funds allow, it is better to choose wooden elements not along the “lower limit” of dimensions, but by laying a certain margin in their cross section.

The table shows the optimal dimensions of a timber for a frame house:

• The support beams of the frame are mounted on coronal bars located along the perimeter of the foundation, at a distance of 600 ÷ 700 mm from each other. They are fixed with the help of corners or by tie-in. If the elements are large in cross section, they can additionally be fastened with metal brackets.

• When the lower trim with support beams is ready, wall frames are made. They can be assembled separately, and then, in finished form, are lifted and fixed to the frame strapping bars.

Another option is to lift the frame directly in place. For example, if a house is being built on its own, without assistants, then it will be very difficult to lift the finished frame from the shade alone to the height of the strapping, set it evenly and temporarily, until it is finally fixed, fix it. And this means that each of the bars will have to be set separately.

• The size of the bars for the racks of the wall frame should be at least 100 × 100 mm, but it can also be mounted from boards with a cross section of at least 50 × 150 mm.

The bars are fixed to the lower harness with the help of powerful corners that are able to keep them in a vertical position. It is best to use not nails, but a self-tapping screw for fastening - the difference in price is not so significant, but the quality and reliability of the assembly is incomparably higher.

• When installing vertical racks, you must immediately mark the location of the openings for windows and doors. It is best to leave the area where they should be installed in the frame free, and install the part of the wall with the window opening separately.

Then, when the upper strapping bar is installed and fixed on all other vertical racks, the section with the window opening is fixed in the place left for it.

• All four walls are assembled in the same way. At the corners, the side racks are fastened together with corners, or instead of two separate ones, one common one is mounted corner post. It is recommended to support it with diagonal braces on both sides - they will stiffen the entire wall structure.

• The doorway is equipped in the frame immediately. It is reinforced with an additional rack, since the hinged door has a certain weight, which must be calmly supported by both the reinforced opening and the entire wall frame.

• If it is planned to sheathe the frame on the outside with clapboard, then the next step is to carry out this event. Sheathing will give the structure additional rigidity, which will allow you to continue the installation of the attic floor and

The installation of the floor can be carried out immediately after the outer wall cladding, but only if the roof is covered with a roof on the same day. It is highly undesirable for a freshly laid floor covering to get wet if it suddenly rains at night. Therefore, it is better to solve the issue with the roof first, and then calmly deal with all other construction activities inside the house.

Roof construction and roofing

Types of truss systems

A few words need to be said about the types of truss systems, since, going to the construction of the roof, you must have general idea about it, to know which design is better to choose.

Rafter systems are of two types - hanging and layered.

Hanging system

The hanging truss system is distinguished by the fact that it is arranged only on external load-bearing walls and does not have other supports. It is perfect for erecting over a small country house. In order to ease the burden on wooden walls and on the foundation, hanging rafters are fastened with a puff.

The hanging structure itself consists of a transverse beam, which also performs an overlapping function, and can simultaneously be a frame for filing the ceiling, as well as rafter legs that form the roof slopes.

Layered system

The layered system is mounted if in the house, in addition to external walls, there are internal capital partitions, which will become additional points of support. Such a scheme can also be used in the construction of the roof of a country house, if it has a large area and its rooms are separated by walls built on a foundation.

With this system, the load on the load-bearing side walls becomes weaker, so fewer retaining elements can be used. It is great for attic structures that will be used as living quarters.

floor beams

An important structural element - floor beams

The beams are laid exactly above the vertical posts of the wall frame. In order for them to fit snugly on the upper strapping belt, grooves are cut at their edges. The size of the grooves can be calculated based on the formula shown in the figure.

Beams are fixed to the frame structure of the walls with nails or self-tapping screws, and in addition they are sometimes fixed on both sides with metal corners.

Having completed the installation of the overlapping beams, you can proceed to building the roof truss system. For safety reasons, temporary boarding is laid on the floor beams to ensure the comfort of moving along the attic plane during the installation of rafters.

Installation of the truss system

The roof truss system can be mounted using a different sequence of fixing its elements:

• First option. It is necessary to fasten the extreme pairs of rafter legs on the ground, then raise them to the harness and install them ready-made on the gable walls of the house. And then connect them with a ridge beam, and already mount the remaining pairs of rafters on it.
• Second option. To begin with, install the middle racks along the gables, then fasten them with a ridge bar or board, on which the rafters are then attached.
• Third option. In this case, pairs of rafter legs in their upper part are fastened together with a ridge pad, and their lower side is fixed on the wall trim, which in this embodiment will act as a Mauerlat.

The cross section of the beams or logs used for the rafter legs must be strictly maintained - depending on the rafter length between two fulcrum, and depending on the step between adjacent pairs of rafters

Maximum allowable length rafter leg(in mm)	Rafter spacing (in mm)
	1100		1400		1750		2100
	Section of the rafter leg (in mm)
	bars with a section	logs Ø	bars with a section	logs Ø	bars with a section	logs Ø	bars with a section	logs Ø
up to 3000	80×100	100	80×100	130	90×100	150	90×160	160
up to 3600	80×130	130	80×160	160	80×180	180	90×180	180
up to 4300	80×160	160	80×180	180	90×180	180	100×200	200
up to 5000	80×180	180	80×200	200	100×200	200	-	-
up to 5800	80×200	200	100×200	200	-	-	-	-
up to 6500	100×200	200	120×220	240	-	-	-	-

It should be noted that the rafter attachment point in its lower part will depend on the angle at which they are fastened on the ridge and how long they are.

If the rafter is long enough and protrudes beyond the bearing walls, then a notch is cut out on it, with which it will be installed on the strapping beam (). An example of such a cut is shown in the picture:

If the rafter ends at the edge of the load-bearing wall, then its lower edge is cut off at a right angle with respect to the Mauerlat, and the leg itself can be fixed on it using a special mounting plate, a sliding support, a corner, a bracket, nails or long self-tapping screws.

If the house is very small, then after fixing the rafters on the strapping, tying them with a ridge beam or board, you most likely will not have to install additional retaining elements.

Detailed information about the exact one can be obtained from a special publication of our portal by clicking on the recommended link:

For the installation of additional, reinforcing elements of the truss system, the material can be selected in accordance with the recommendations indicated in the table:

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Fasteners for rafters

Roofing system

After the rafters and additional elements form the slopes of the roof, you can proceed to the installation of the subsystem for roofing.

• The first thing that needs to be done from the outside of the roof, after installing the rafters, is to lay a vapor barrier film, securing it first with brackets, and then with counter-lattice strips on the rafters.

The film is laid perpendicular to the rafters, starting from the lower, eaves of the roof. The overlap between two adjacent strips must be at least 200 mm.

• The main crate is mounted perpendicular to the counter-lattice, on which the roofing material will be attached. The installation step of the guides depends on the type and size of the sheets roofing material.

If, however, a soft roof is chosen to cover the roof, then instead of the laths of the lathing, the slopes are covered with a continuous one - with plywood, and then with waterproofing sheets of roofing material, which is overlapped by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm and glued together with bituminous mastic. Another option is to use soft bituminous decorative tiles, which are laid using a similar technology.

• For wooden houses, the following roofing materials are most often used (depending on the steepness of the roof slope).
  

• On the prepared base, the selected roofing material is laid and fixed. Work starts from the cornice, and if the first row is laid from right to left, then all other rows are mounted in the same way.

Some types of roofing materials have a strictly specified installation scheme in the direction, which cannot be changed. This must be indicated in the instructions attached to them.

Also, for any type of sheet roofing materials, the amount of overlap in the direction of the slope (usually 150 ÷ ​​200 mm), and the number of waves (relief protrusions) in the horizontal direction, along the roof, is determined.

• Almost all roofing materials are fixed on the crate with the help of special nails or self-tapping screws with waterproofing gaskets.

• It is very important to choose and fix the ridge elements of the roof correctly, otherwise it will leak at the first rain. Usually the ridge element is selected from the same material as the covering of the roof slopes.
• Next, finishing eaves overhang roofs - this can be done with wooden or plastic clapboard. Sometimes special plastic elements - soffits - are used for these purposes.

• Then, elements of the roof drainage system are installed on the windboard - funnels, gutters on brackets, pipes, etc.

• Further, the gable sides of the truss system are sheathed. Most often, wooden or plastic lining or even planed boards are used for this.

For lining along the perimeter of the gable triangle, a special profile is fixed, into which panels prepared and cut at the right angle will be installed. Installation is usually carried out symmetrically - from the middle rack to one and then the other side - then the skin will turn out to be even and neat.

By the way, to mount the lining, Besides, you can horizontally, herringbone or come up with a more complex pattern.

Detailed information about the technology can be found in the article posted on our website by clicking on link.

Now, having finished the external roofing and being sure that the rain will no longer get inside the country house, you can proceed to the installation of windows and doors, insulation, flooring and wall cladding.

Installation of windows and doors

• Window frames are mounted in the frame openings left for them, set according to the level. For preliminary fixation, when the frame is set, spacers made of wooden bars or slats are installed between it and the bars of the opening.

Then, after checking the correct installation, the frames are attached to the wall frame with metal strips. The remaining gaps between the frame and frame bars are filled with mounting foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off, and around the windows with outer side platbands are installed on the walls, which will close the unsightly appearance of the gaps and give accuracy general view house.

• The installation of the door is best done together with the door frame, if it has sufficient rigidity. So it will be much easier to align the entire structure according to the level in doorway walls.

The door is best installed as a block - together with the frame and leaf

Exposing the door frame, if necessary, to achieve a clear vertical position, enclose wedges (inserts) from wooden slats. The door frame is fixed to the frame in the same way as window frames, using metal strips, and the gap is filled with mounting foam.

Having installed windows and doors in all, you can proceed to the installation of the floor.

Installation and floor insulation

To begin with, the temporary flooring from the boards (if there was one) is removed from the lower frame, and then you need to install the subfloor.

• To do this, cranial bars are nailed or screwed onto the frame load-bearing beams. They are necessary for laying transverse subfloor boards on them.

• Further, boards sawn exactly to size are laid on the cranial bars, or plywood 8 ÷ 10 mm thick - this flooring will serve as a subfloor.
• From above, the laid subfloor is closed hydro- paro— insulating film, which should cover both the load-bearing beams and the entire floor plane. Individual sheets of material are overlapped (by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm) and glued at the joints with waterproof tape.

• Further, insulating material is laid or poured on the vapor barrier film. If there is no desire to have as neighbors who like to settle under the floor, then it is better to use expanded clay of medium or fine fraction, or ecowool, to insulate the floor - these toothy pests simply do not live in such materials.

• On top of the insulation, another layer of film membrane is laid, which is nailed to the supporting beams with brackets. The laying principle is exactly the same as on the subfloor.

With the floor - finished!

• Then the whole structure is covered with thick plywood or wooden floorboards.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Measures for additional thermal insulation

When the floor is completely ready, the walls of the house are insulated and sheathed from the inside. If the building will be used only in the warm season, then the insulation will still not hurt - it will work as an insulator of the premises from heating in extreme heat. Therefore, it is recommended to lay a thermal insulation layer not only in the walls, but also in the ceiling, and if it is absent, place the insulation along the inner slopes of the roof.

• First, vapor barrier material is fixed to all walls and ceiling beams. Then the ceiling is sheathed with clapboard, plywood or drywall.
• After covering the ceiling, the walls are insulated. At the same time, insulation mats are laid between the racks of the frame. It is necessary to make sure that the mats stand as tightly as possible with an emphasis on the bars of the wall frame, so that there are no gaps left.

That is why mineral wool is most often used as a heater - after dense laying between the racks, it will straighten out, completely filling the entire space. The material is usually selected so that the thickness of the mats and the thickness of the frame posts are the same.

• After that, all walls are again tightened with a vapor barrier film.

• The next step is wall cladding. wooden clapboard, plywood or . The latter, with subsequent decorative wall decoration, can be painted water-based paint or covered with wallpaper.

• Next, insulate attic floor, there is a heater - it fits between the floor beams.

If the ceiling is sheathed from the side of the house with drywall or clapboard, then we must not forget that it is impossible to step on it, since the sheathing will not support the weight of a person. It is necessary to move carefully along the floor beams.

• In the event that the attic is planned to be used for storing various garden accessories, then on top of the insulation on the floor beams, it is necessary to fix the flooring from boards or plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm.
• The finishing touches of the interior decoration will be the installation of platbands on windows and doors, ceiling and floor plinths and closing corners with fittings.

Extensions to the house

The last stages of arranging a country house are installation work on the veranda and on the porch.

If space is left in advance for the veranda on the frame lying on the foundation, then a board is laid on this space to cover the floor (material for open areas is used), a fence is installed and a canopy is mounted.

If the foundation is raised high enough above the ground, then a porch is also attached to it.

Building a country house with your own hands is a completely doable task, but it will be quite difficult to manage without helpers. Therefore, it is best to seek help from knowing master, who has experience in such work, will always give useful advice and show how certain nodes are correctly mounted in the construction of the house. You can "mobilize" relatives and friends - it is possible that a knowledgeable person will be among them.

Video: construction of a country house using frame technology

The construction of a country house is a multi-stage process, involving the coordinated work of masters of various fields, from architects to master finishers. The final result depends on the quality of execution of each stage of work and the selected materials. But the question often arises, how to build a house cheaply and quickly yourself, and is it possible?

Contrary to popular belief, building a country house can cost a small amount of money. To do this, it is enough to competently approach each of the stages of construction, reducing its cost without loss of quality. Let's try to figure out how to build a house cheaply, what you can save on, and what you absolutely cannot, in our article.

Each of the elements of a country house can be reduced in price

Savings start with the creation of the project

As a rule, finished projects have complex layouts that are expensive to execute. The final result looks good in the picture, but does not solve the main task: how to build a house yourself cheaply, because many additional architectural structures will cost a considerable amount of money.

Affordable architectural projects are characterized by:

• A simple rectangular shape without ledges, bay windows and other expensive elements.
• One floor. The absence of expensive ceilings and stairs will reduce the final cost of the home.
• Shallow foundation - a concrete structure dug under the base of the house. Installation of this type of foundation does not require extensive preparatory work, so it will cost a reasonable price.
• standard form roofs with two slopes. Complex structures with round skylights and many slopes increase the cost of construction.

The simpler the box at home, the more reliable and cheaper it is.

The traditional form of windows. As a rule, rectangular double-leaf windows are much cheaper than any non-standard modifications.

Laconic finish interior spaces. The most budgetary and functional construction option is a Scandinavian-style house with a minimum of intricate decorative elements.

Simple exterior finish. For example, finishing the facade with plaster is a durable and aesthetic design method that does not require long and expensive construction work.

Which foundation is more economical

The type and depth of the foundation are determined by the final weight of the house, the quality of the soil, and the proximity of the reservoir. Foundation costs average 40% of the cost of all works. It is generally accepted that it is impossible to save on the foundation, and it is really stupid to dispute this statement. But, nevertheless, there are ways to build a house inexpensively, without losing quality, saving on the foundation. True, at the same time, you need to know exactly what kind of soil is on the site, and for this you will have to order geological exploration. According to its results, the following options can be considered:

If most often country houses Since a strip foundation is used, which is laid to the depth of freezing of the soil, in some cases it is possible to get by with its shallow variety. As a rule, such a design "sits" into the ground by 0.5-0.7 meters, which significantly reduces the amount of concrete required for pouring.

Strip foundation traditional for suburban construction

Also, in addition to the characteristics of the soil, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the future house and the relief of the site. If the design allows you to install a house on a pile foundation, then this will significantly reduce the burden on the budget.

A compromise option is a pile-grillage foundation. It combines laying technologies for shallow and pile foundations. First, a shallow foundation is dug out, and then holes are dug or drilled at the reference points to the depth of freezing of the soil. After the formwork is installed, everything is poured with concrete together and the result is a shallow foundation, which supporting pillars is below the freezing point of the ground.

In some cases, you can not fill the foundation, but lay it out of ready-made reinforced concrete slabs.

An additional savings may be the refusal to order concrete at the factory, but it must be borne in mind that its independent preparation in a concrete mixer will take an order of magnitude more time and effort. As a result, it is up to everyone to decide what is more important - time or money.

We must always remember that all ways to save on the foundation must be carefully calculated and approved by specialists. Otherwise, there is a risk of confirming for yourself the proverb about the miser who pays twice.

Pile and pile-grillage foundations

The choice of materials for walls - which is cheaper and better

The largest amount of building material goes to the construction of walls, so you should carefully choose what is cheaper to build a house from.

A brick house is the most durable, reliable construction option. Competently executed buildings from this material serve for more than one hundred years, without requiring any repair or maintenance of the facades. The brick wall is environmentally friendly, creates good air exchange and is not affected by moisture, fire and temperature extremes. The main disadvantage of a brick is its heavy weight, which implies the construction of a solid and expensive foundation. Next Feature brick building- the need for thorough thermal insulation of the house, especially in harsh northern climatic conditions.

Modern wooden dwellings are made of glued beams, which are small dried blocks glued together. This material provides good thermal insulation, fast installation, and also creates a favorable microclimate in the room. The disadvantage of the material is its susceptibility to moisture and fire. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully design power supply and heating systems. In addition, after several years of operation, walls made of glued laminated timber may require additional impregnation with antiseptic compounds.

Glulam house with two floors and a small terrace

Frame houses are structures assembled from ready-made insulated blocks. Construction takes a minimum amount of time, but it requires significant financial costs. The main advantage of the technology is the absence of shrinkage of the finished structure, therefore Finishing work carried out immediately after the construction of the walls. The disadvantage of erecting the frame is the complexity of the process. Thus, it is necessary to pay for the services of qualified builders in order to eventually get reliable design. When building a spacious house, the design of an air exchange system is also necessary, since artificial materials blocks do not pass air well.

Classic frame house - strict and original architecture

A building made of aerated concrete blocks weighs much less than a brick one, while its thermal insulation properties are similar. The porous material passes air well, provides sound insulation, is easy to install, and does not shrink. Thus, budget houses from gas blocks are built quite quickly, a good microclimate is formed inside the premises, additional ventilation is not required. On the other hand, the blocks also pass water well, so high-quality waterproofing- the main condition for a durable aerated concrete structure. For durable construction, it is also necessary to select a qualified work team to build a house in compliance with the technology of bonding and waterproofing blocks. Otherwise, the structure may be easily blown through or have an increased level of humidity.

Video description

Clearly about the pros and cons of aerated concrete in the video:

Comparison of prices per square meter of construction from different materials

Pricing when building a house depends not only on the materials chosen, but also on the condition of the soil, the necessary costs for providing thermal insulation, as well as the skill level of the team that is building the building.

For example, the construction of a brick building will cost an average of 2,300 rubles per square meter, but this does not take into account the cost of thermal insulation and the construction of a reliable foundation.

Houses made of glued laminated timber will cost 1900 rubles per meter finished construction, while the quality of wood and communications is crucial.

The most affordable option is frame houses, the cost of which is 875 rubles per meter of finished housing. But if there is no desire or opportunity to build a house on your own, then you will need to involve a qualified team of builders, whose services are quite expensive.

Buildings made of aerated concrete will cost customers 2,000 rubles per square meter, while it is necessary to use special adhesives to create a durable structure that is resistant to moisture. Also, the porous material of gas blocks requires thorough waterproofing.

Pricing depends on many factors

Budget options for building a roof

The most affordable is a gable roof without wide gables and additional decorative elements. The structure is installed on wooden beams, supplemented with metal rods (reinforcement) for strengthening. On the basis of the insulated roof, full-fledged attics or attic rooms are constructed.

To cover the outer surface of the roof, slate, metal tiles or corrugated board are used. The latter material is the best option for roofing due to its low cost, lightness and strength. The only disadvantage of corrugated board is the need for thorough soundproofing in order to protect the inhabitants of the house from the noise of rain and similar sounds. Classic slate is expensive to operate and non-environmental material, in addition, it requires lengthy installation. Aesthetic durable metal tile - a good option to create a roof, but such material will require significant financial investments from the owners.

A simple roof structure is the key to saving construction costs

Is it worth saving on a vapor-permeable membrane

Many owners are thinking about reducing the construction budget. The desire to save money is reasonable, and the calculation is obvious: you can buy middle-class materials, since a roof made of corrugated board, slate or metal tiles will reliably protect the interior space. The truth is that it is high-quality materials that are the key to the reliability of the structure, and unplanned expenses become the result of such a strategy.

For example, to be convinced of the economic benefits of using a high-quality membrane, it is enough to conduct comparative analysis on the example of a house with a classic pitched roof with an area of ​​150 m2. For such an area, you will need 3 rolls of a hydro-windproof membrane. The cost of material from various manufacturers will be:

	Tyvek Soft, DuPont™, Luxembourg	Izospan AM ("Geksa"), Russia	DELTA ROOF, Germany	Yutafol H110 (JUTA), Czech
Price/roll, per roll	7000 rub., 75 m2	From 2700 rubles, 70 m2	From 7000 rubles, 75 m2	From 3800 rubles, 75 m2
Total price	21000 rub.	10500 rub.	From 21000 rub.	From 11400 rub.

If we take into account only the financial side of the issue, then the choice is obvious. But the primary task of the diffusion membrane is to preserve the properties of the insulation and underlay structures. The vapor permeability of the nonwoven fabric (the ability to remove steam in a timely manner) not only protects the underlying layers. It directly affects the likelihood that during the first ten years it will be necessary to make major repairs to the roof structure.

An analysis of the two tables shows that the materials have different price/permeability ratios, respectively: 12-13.1-50.6-12.7. The lower the coefficient, the less likely it is overhaul for the first 5-10 years of operation of the roof (in the worst cases, the probability increases to 60-79%.).

According to the totality of characteristics, the highest quality of the considered products were Tyvek and Yutafol. In addition, DuPont's Tyvek® membranes, which meet all the requirements of SNIP and SP, are the only ones with a 10-year manufacturer's warranty, which means they will not cause repairs during this period.

The vapor barrier can be removed in two ways. The first, the most financially capacious, is the replacement of the roof of the house from the outside (in fact, a complete overhaul); it includes:

Dismantling roofing . From 100 rubles / m 2 (depending on the material).

Dismantling the insulation. From 45 rubles / m 2.

Replacing a damaged membrane. From 50 rubles / m 2.

Garbage removal. 1.5 t - from 2800 rubles.

Installation of new insulation. From 60 rubles / m 2.

Installation of new roofing material. Slate - from 180 rubles / m 2, soft tiles - from 380 rubles / m 2.

The cost of the work will be comparable to twice the cost of a new roof; in most cases, it is easier to demolish the old roofing cake by replacing the entire roof.

The cost of replacing the diffusion membrane in the second way, from inside the house, consists of the following operations:

Removing the ceiling trim(attic, attic, etc.). Wallpaper, plaster - from 70 rubles / m 2.

Dismantling of floors. From 450 rubles / m 2.

Replacement of the membrane itself. From 50 rubles / m 2.

Garbage removal. From 360 rubles / m 3.

Installation of new floors and partitions. From 270 rubles / m 2.

Installation and finishing of new interior decoration(ceiling repair). From 250 rubles / m 2.

This option is less expensive, but in this case, the new membrane will not be installed according to the technology. Violation of the norms of SNIP and SP means improper operation, and, as a result, another repair ahead of schedule. As a result, short-term savings of a maximum of 10 thousand rubles. on the difference in prices of different membranes will result in significant financial expenses and loss of time. Thus, the purchase of high-quality materials allows not only to protect the house, but also to avoid unplanned expenses.

Construction of internal partitions

The construction of a budget home involves the use of thin plasterboard partitions, as well as soundproof materials. Such walls are quickly mounted, they look aesthetically pleasing, but at the same time they do not provide the structure with additional strength.

For owners of sites with silty soil near water bodies or in hilly areas, it is recommended to build internal load-bearing walls. Thus, the structure will be more stable; when choosing a deep foundation, it will not succumb to adverse influences (for example, soil displacement).

It is easy to strengthen internal partitions made of any materials using a metal profile installed in places with the greatest load on the walls.

Video description

Experience shows that there are moments in the construction of a house where it is absolutely not worth saving, but there are nuances where you can not only save, but rationally spend the budget (which is a kind of reasonable savings).

Window device options

The most budgetary and durable option is metal-plastic windows. Ready-made or custom-made, such structures can be of any size and modification, perfectly adapted to harsh climatic conditions, and look aesthetically pleasing. The main advantage of PVC windows is the ease of installation and maintenance. Unlike expensive wooden windows, metal-plastic windows do not require periodic restoration, they are less susceptible to moisture and temperature changes. Modern structures are equipped with several tilt-and-turn structures in order to carry out ongoing ventilation.

Classic double glazing country house- reliable and inexpensive

Will it be possible to save on engineering communications

Contrary to popular belief, even the cheapest house functions well if engineering communications work properly in it. On the other hand, budget options installation of electrical and water networks lead to additional costs in the future. For example, cheap wires, as well as junction boxes with poor insulation in a wooden house, can lead to a fire and the need to restore the entire structure. Plumbing systems installed without following the technology can collapse under the influence of harsh weather conditions, which will affect not only the comfort of the owners, but also future repair costs.

Installation engineering communications- this is the basis of a comfortable life in a country dwelling, so the ability to save on this aspect should be confirmed by careful calculations. This stage of work should be entrusted only to professionals in order to avoid unnecessary costs, as well as unpleasant situations during operation.

Interior decoration

A good way to save money is to choose a concise, simple interior decoration country house. A wide variety of finishing materials will allow you to equip cozy rooms at minimal cost. To save money, it is recommended to choose a laconic interior style, the minimum number of decorative elements.

Laconic interior is the minimum cost of finishing materials

Popular furniture made from natural materials looks aesthetically pleasing, but it will cost more. composite materials and requires careful maintenance.

Tips for saving on building a house: what you can and cannot save on

Thinking about how to save on building a house, do not forget about the guarantee of its quality. Professional supervision of a technical engineer over the construction process is a guarantee of compliance with the technology of all work, so you should not save on these procedures.

Attractive finished projects of country houses - Nice picture, which can turn into impractical, expensive to operate housing. It is recommended to save on external decorative elements and order a house project with a simple and clear architecture.

The foundation and communications are the "skeleton" of durable housing in which it will be comfortable to live, so it is worth spending maximum money on these aspects in order to use the services of professionals with many years of experience.

Finishing materials and additional lighting inside the house are more decorative than functional elements. Therefore, it is possible to minimize costs by using the principle of sufficiency.

Video description

Is construction supervision worth ordering? This question is of interest to almost everyone who builds a house for himself, makes repairs, etc. Today we will look at how to control a construction company? What to pay attention to? Where can I find independent technical supervision and what is the essence of this service? We will also consider how much technical supervision will cost you and what are the advantages of this service?

Conclusion

The construction of a country house for permanent residence involves a consistent, thoughtful approach to all aspects of construction. In general, the answer to the question of how to build a house inexpensively, and which house is cheaper to build, will be the competent distribution of the budget and the use of professional services where possible for the selection of materials and work. We must always remember that illiterate savings here and now often manifest themselves on the negative side during the further operation of the house.

If the option of moving out of town is seriously considered, the question of which is better to build a house for permanent residence comes to the fore. The choice of materials for construction depends on the preferences of the owner of the future housing, his financial capabilities, and to some extent on the prevailing local traditions. Of course, the specifics of the climatic conditions of the region and the characteristics of the soils on the site acquired for the construction of housing are taken into account.

Today, both traditional and new technologies are used for the construction of private houses. In order to opt for one of them, you need to figure out what problems you will encounter during large-scale construction work and during the operation of the finished building.

Criteria for choosing material for construction

When choosing a material for building a house, you should start from a number of important criteria:

• In order for the house to be comfortable for living at any time of the year, when choosing a material for construction, it is necessary to take into account the average winter temperatures of the region where it is planned to build it, comparing them with the thermal insulation qualities of future walls and ceilings.

• In addition, most potential owners strive to make their homes energy efficient. That is, at minimal cost on energy carriers to obtain a comfortable temperature in the premises both in winter and summer.
• The ability of a building material to become an effective barrier against external noise is especially important if the building is being built near a busy highway or railway.
• The durability and reliability of a residential building will directly depend on the strength of the selected material.
• The appearance of the building also plays an important role. Therefore, it is immediately necessary to decide: which version of the material is preferable - requiring or not requiring additional finishing.
• Of course, an important criterion is always the affordability of the material. In many ways, it depends on the region of construction.
• If the owner plans to carry out the construction on his own (in whole or even in part), then the degree of complexity of working with the chosen building material may also be a priority of the criteria.

The main types of materials for building a private house

Today, for the construction of houses are used as traditional materials, used, without exaggeration, for centuries, and developed relatively recently, but have already managed to show themselves on the positive side.

So, when deciding on materials for building a house, you need to know that they are conventionally divided into four groups:

• Natural wood (log or timber).
• Brick, stone and shell rock.
• Porous blocks.
• Composite materials based on wood.

To determine which of the listed materials is better to choose for a particular case, it is necessary to consider their physical and technical characteristics and other features.

Brick

For the construction of houses, silicate and ceramic bricks are used. Both one and the second option are produced in two types, which differ in the internal structural structure - a brick can be hollow and solid.

Both types are widely used for building walls of houses. However, different bricks can also have very different characteristics.

Solid and hollow ceramic bricks

Solid brick has a higher strength, so it can withstand high loads. However, it has a high thermal conductivity, and because of this, walls made of it usually require additional insulation and cladding.

Ceramic and silicate, solid or hollow bricks - each has its own advantages and disadvantages

Hollow products retain heat better in the house, so they are often lined with a wall built of solid bricks, leaving a space between the walls that is filled thermal insulation materials- slag, expanded clay, foam concrete or expanded polystyrene.

Agree with careful brickwork it is very difficult to compete in terms of the aesthetics of the facade

Brick houses have a respectable appearance and a long service life, which sometimes exceeds the deadlines laid down in the design of the building. Buildings made of this material favorably differ from other buildings in their strength and reliability. That is why, despite the appearance innovative materials, the brick has not lost in its popularity at all, as it has successfully passed the test of time. The proof of this is that the buildings, sometimes erected several centuries ago, are still in operation.

However, despite the large number of positive qualities of a brick, this material has not only advantages, but also obvious disadvantages.

To the main benefits brick, and hence the houses built from it, include:

• Ecological purity of the material.

Nowadays, future home owners always pay attention Special attention on the quality of the material. Brick buildings in this respect are impeccable, since the composition of the solution from which the products are made does not include artificially produced or toxic components. Ceramic bricks are made from refined clay, and silicate bricks are made from sand and lime.

• The strength of the structure built from it, long service life.

For centuries, in different countries, both single-story and multi-story buildings were built from bricks, some up to today are operated without even requiring restoration of facades. The walls, built of bricks made without violating technology, and laid on a high-quality mortar, are resistant to ultraviolet rays, moisture, wind, and biological damage.

In addition, brick buildings are able to withstand various natural disasters, such as floods, earthquakes, etc.

• Frost resistance.

This quality indicates that the material is able to fully maintain its operational and decorative qualities during numerous cycles of deep freezing and thawing. Today, different brands of bricks are on sale, the frost resistance of which may vary. Therefore, when purchasing this material, you should pay attention to the F indicator, which just shows this number of cycles. The higher the value, the more durable the material.

• Natural regulation of humidity in the building.
• Fire safety.

Unlike wood, brick is resistant to open fire, as it is made of non-combustible material, besides the past hardening high temperatures during its firing. The brick does not ignite and does not support the combustion of adjacent elements of the building. True, when exposed to open fire for a long time, it loses its safety margin. And this means that the operational life of the walls that survived the fire is significantly reduced.

To the list of essential shortcomings brick buildings include the following factors:

• Material cost.

Having chosen a brick for building a house, you need to be prepared for fairly large costs, since, given the “modest” size of the products, a lot of them will be required. In addition to the brick itself, you will need to complete the interior decoration of the walls - this is plastering, followed by puttying, painting, or else. All these processes are also quite costly and require a certain amount of time.

• High thermal conductivity of brick. If a house is being built in a region with cold winters, where the temperature drops to -35 ÷ 40 degrees, then the brick walls should be thick and be at least 640 ÷ 770 mm. Another option could be a "sandwich" wall, that is, made according to the principle of "well masonry". In this case, at a certain distance from each other, two relatively thin brick walls are simultaneously erected, the space between which is filled with heat-insulating materials. Sometimes another method is used for insulation - a crate is fixed on the front side of the wall, between the elements of which mineral wool or expanded polystyrene is mounted, and then the walls are lined with one of the decorative materials.
• Massiveness.

Brick houses are a very heavy structure. And this means that under them it is necessary to equip a reliable and solid foundation. Otherwise, under high load, it will sag, and with it the brick walls, as a result of which deep cracks will go along them.

Therefore, to build a high-quality one that is guaranteed to cope with a high load, you will also have to seriously spend money.

• The design of a brick structure should only be carried out by a professional. Errors in the calculations of the foundation and the determination of the thickness of the bearing walls are unacceptable. The project and calculations will also be expensive.
• hygroscopicity of the material.

This quality is especially pronounced in bricks made in violation of technology, that is, in insufficiently hardened or too porous bricks. In houses made of such material, there is always increased humidity, and getting rid of it is quite difficult. Therefore, the walls have to be periodically etched, which takes a lot of time and causes discomfort in the operation of housing. It is good that today there are many tools that will help protect brick walls from moisture - they process surfaces at the very beginning of the building's operation. It will help protect brick walls and a high one that separates them from ground moisture, splashes in the rain or from contact with snow drifts.

Silicate brick is more hygroscopic than ceramic. Therefore, it is not recommended to use it for building a house in regions with a humid climate. And it is completely excluded when laying the basement.

In digital terms, the main characteristics of a brick are as follows:

Feature name	solid brick	hollow brick	silicate brick
Density, kg/m³	1600÷1800	1400÷1700	1700÷1900
Thermal conductivity, W/m˚С	0.81÷0.87	0.44	0.95
Strength, kgf/cm²	125÷200	100÷200	150
Moisture absorption, %	7÷8	7÷8	8÷10
Frost cycles	50÷100	50÷70	35
Recommended wall thickness, mm at air temperature -20/-30/-40 ˚С (mm)	510/640/770	380/510/640	510/640/770

The cost of a brick in the table is deliberately not indicated. This parameter varies over a very wide range, depending on the type, brand, size, manufacturer, region of construction. Even for one seller, the spread of prices for seemingly identical products, but coming from different factories, can be very significant.

Cement based masonry blocks

IN last years for the construction of a private house, building blocks made on the basis of cement are increasingly being chosen. Such masonry materials have a number of advantages over traditional bricks, and the first of them can be called an affordable cost. In addition, the blocks have impressive linear dimensions - one can replace from 4 or even up to 14 standard bricks, so building a house will go much faster.

Manufacturers today supply cement-based blocks to the construction market, but manufactured using different technologies and with different physical, technical and operational indicators:

• Foam blocks and aerated concrete blocks.
• Cinder blocks and expanded clay concrete blocks.

To understand what each of these materials is, and how they differ from each other, let's take a closer look at their characteristics.

Aerated concrete and foam concrete blocks

These building materials, at first glance, are similar in their characteristics. However, their manufacturing techniques are somewhat different.

Aerated concrete is made from cement, lime, sand and water with the addition of aluminum powder. Thanks to these components, during the manufacturing process of the composition, a chemical reaction is activated, accompanied by gas evolution, which ensures the creation of a porous structure with an open cell. This determines the very high hygroscopicity of the material.

Foam concrete products are made from cement, sand and water. But the main thing for the formation of the structure of the material is a foaming agent, added at the stage of mixing the solution before pouring into molds. The cell is closed.

Both one and the other blocks can have different densities, and are divided into grades. The numerical indicator in the brand just indicates the density of the finished material (kg / m³):

- D 1000–D 1200 - structural products, that is, intended for the construction of load-bearing walls. Their insulating qualities are not the most outstanding.

- D 500-D 900 - structural and thermal insulation materials. It is they who are most often chosen for individual construction, combining, so to speak, “pleasant with useful”.

- D 300- D 500 - thermal insulation blocks. For load-bearing structures, the strength qualities of such a material are clearly not enough.

Foam concrete is also produced in another version, which is marked D1300 to D1600. These are structurally porous blocks having a high density, but also a very significant thermal conductivity. As a rule, the material of this brand is made to order, and is practically not used in the practice of residential construction.

Aerated concrete and foam concrete blocks have the following characteristic features:

• Ease of processing. Blocks are easily sawn with a regular wood saw. Thanks to this quality, anyone, even an inexperienced builder, can handle the adjustment of the material during the construction of walls. Moreover, the block can be given an arbitrarily intricate shape.
• Material strength. The indicators of this parameter may vary depending on the porosity and brand of the product.
• Low thermal conductivity. This indicator averages 0.08÷0.22 W/(m×˚С). The D300 and D500 grades have a particularly low coefficient, so they are great for additional insulation of houses for permanent residence. Walls made of this material perfectly retain heat in the house in the winter cold and cool on hot summer days.
• Soundproofing. Aerated concrete and foam concrete have significant noise absorption indicators, and the final parameters depend on other characteristics of the material, as well as on the thickness of the walls. According to the norms of SNiP II-12-77, in private houses the level of sound insulation should be 41 ÷ 60 dB, and the sound insulation qualities of aerated concrete usually exceed these figures:

Brand of material most often used to build a private house	Sound insulation level, dB, with the thickness of the walls of the enclosing structure, mm
	120	180	240	300	360
D500	36	41	44	46	48
D600	38	43	46	48	50

• Ecological purity of the material. Industrial production of blocks is carried out under strict control (especially for aerated concrete). In laboratories, checks are carried out for the presence of radioactive materials and toxic components - they are completely excluded.
• Mass of blocks. This parameter depends on the density of the material:

As you can see, this parameter can vary somewhat in one direction or another. It must be remembered - the higher the density of the material, the higher its thermal conductivity and the worse the sound insulation.

Along with positive characteristics, these building materials also have their own limitations about which you also need to have information:

• Foam and gas blocks are fragile, therefore, during work, with careless handling of the material, it can crack or split. In addition, this can also happen when the foundation shrinks. Therefore, the base under the walls should be as reliable as possible. In order to avoid subsidence and cracking, every second ÷ third row of masonry must be reinforced with metal rods.
• The hygroscopicity of aerated concrete can be attributed to serious shortcomings. This feature predetermines an increase in the volume of work, which includes waterproofing measures.
• Mandatory interior and exterior finishing involves additional costs.

What to choose - foam concrete or aerated concrete?

With a lot of common features, these materials also have significant differences. By what criteria can you compare More detailed information can be found in a special publication of our portal.

Expanded clay blocks and cinder blocks

These blocks, like the materials described above, can be classified as very affordable and have decent characteristics.

Their frost resistance and strength are commensurate with similar parameters of brick walls. The blocks are very large. linear parameters and relatively small weight, so the laying of them is done in a short time.

Expanded clay blocks are made from cement mortar with the addition of expanded clay of a fine fraction of 5 ÷ 10 mm, or coarse expanded clay sand.

Now, having figured out what the frame structures of houses are, it is necessary to highlight their positive and negative sides.

TO virtues properly built frame houses may include the following:

• Ability to work independently.
• The low thermal conductivity of the walls helps keep the heat inside the house.
• Relatively fast and fairly simple installation of structural elements.
• There is no need for a massive foundation, as the construction is easy.
• The design does not shrink, so you can move into the house immediately after finishing work.
• You do not have to level the surfaces of the walls and ceiling, as they are already ready for decorative finishing both outside and inside.
• Relatively low cost.

However, the frame structure also has a fairly large number shortcomings , which can bring disappointment to future residents of the house during its operation:

• Low tightness of all frame structures, except fachwerk.
• Insufficiently long service life due to low strength and reliability of the structure.
• IN frame houses the correct one must be equipped, otherwise mold may appear on the walls and underground due to insufficient air exchange.
• Poor quality of sound insulation.
• High fire hazard.

• Insulating material in the floor and walls can be chosen for housing by rodents and various insects. And it will be very difficult to get rid of such a “neighborhood”.

So which is better, timber or frame construction?

If you have to decide which form of wood is better to choose for construction - a beam or a log, or give preference to a frame structure, then it would be useful to refer to a special comparative publication. The recommended link leads to it.

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Above, we figured out what materials can be used to build houses for year-round living. Given their characteristics, advantages and disadvantages, approximate prices in your region, you can decide which one is best for a particular case by combining all the evaluation criteria.

If desires and opportunities coincide, then you can stop at the best option and start designing a house project.

Complement the information reflected in the article, an interesting video on the same topic:

Video: What material is better to choose for your own residential building?