Construction of a bath with your own hands from a bar. How to build a bath from a bar

To build a bath, you can use different kinds building material... The most widespread is construction using the most ancient technology - from wood. You can build a bathhouse from logs, or you can build it from a bar.

How to build the right bath from a bar with your own hands

The timber fits perfectly into the rows, looks beautiful, practically does not shrink, keeps heat very well. Lumber walls are easier to build than log walls. They can be installed immediately on the finished foundation, in contrast to logs, which are first adjusted on the ground, and then transferred to the foundation and build walls from them.

This kind construction is the most cost effective. Almost any person with experience with a power tool and a little desire can build a bathhouse from a bar with their own hands.

I do not want to describe the disadvantages or advantages of building from certain materials. Each material has its pluses and minuses. Let's take a closer look at how to build a bath from a bar.

The technology of building a bath from a bar. Selection of material

To build a bathhouse from a bar with your own hands, you will need a profiled bar.

When laying the first few crowns (a complete row of beams around the perimeter is considered a crown), it is best to use a larch beam, since it rots less in a humid environment.

For subsequent crowns, starting from 2-3, you can take conifers (cedar, spruce, pine), since they are warmer and have water-repellent properties due to the presence of resins.

The optimal size of the cant for outer box the size is considered - 150x150 mm, and optimal size internal partitions - 150x100 mm.

As an antiseptic, the old grandfather's method is still considered the best. According to him, each bar is carefully processed with engine oil, and the very first crown (salary) should be processed from all sides, and all subsequent ones are processed from three inner sides.

Preparation of the construction of a bath

According to experts, it is recommended to make the foundation for a bath in the following most common ways:

Strip foundation - concrete is poured along the perimeter of the structure to a freezing depth, or to a depth of 55-70 cm, the soil around is then additionally insulated.
Columnar foundation - pillars are placed in the corners and around the perimeter, at a distance of approximately 1.5-2 m from each other. Usually it is made of bricks, and a concrete "pillow" is poured under each pillar.

In both cases, the waterproofing between the first crown and the foundation is made of two layers of waterproofing material, for example, roofing material.

The height of the part of the foundation that protrudes above the blind area should not be less than 150 mm, and the width should be 100 mm more than the thickness of the timber.

When filling the foundation, remember about the "embedded" from the reinforcement, in order to then carry out the fastening with the first crown (frame).

Rim seals

Sometimes "dashing masters" are advised to use polyurethane foam as a sealant. I want to note, firstly, this will result in a considerable sum of money... Secondly, polyurethane foam quickly turns yellow and collapses from external exposure to ultraviolet rays and internal exposure to moisture.
Foam is used guided by a certain technology, laying slats, but this is long and cumbersome, therefore it is safer to purchase ordinary seals for a log house.

There is a large assortment on sale various heaters for wooden buildings. The easiest way to use is jute (insulation tape). It is rolled out along the entire length of the bar and fastened with small nails or a construction stapler.

Walls

Let's start assembling a constructor from a bar. It is important to remember that when assembling walls from a bar, making a tight fit is unacceptable. When the tree dries, it will shrink in thickness, but the length will always remain unchanged. The space must be loosely filled with insulation.

The number and length of the timber for each wall is determined on the basis of the bath room plan, taking into account the overlaps on the corners and cuts for the installation of internal walls. We prepare a template along the length from a board or rail using an electric saw, according to the template we will prepare a bar for 2-3 crowns. We will mark up the template in the way that is convenient and understandable for us.

The timber is fastened to each other according to the following scheme:

we lay a new beam and adjust it in place;
we drill holes with a step of 1.25-1.50 m, drilling the newly laid beam and half the underlying one;
we remove the new bar, and drive a wooden dowel (dowel) into the hole of the lower one, the length of which is equal to two heights of the bar;
we lay the insulation along the length;
we put the bar in place, check the horizontal position, combine the holes and pins and hammer it into place until it is firmly seated.

Door blocks we will put it on the row of strapping, which is located in the washing compartment above the floor level, and window block at the level we need. We set the blocks by plumb lines, then we fix them. Over the window boxes and doors you need to leave a gap of about 80 mm for shrinkage, then it must be filled with insulation.

Preparing the structure for the shrinkage period is the last step in the question of how to build a bathhouse from a bar with your own hands. It lasts 6 months or more. At the end of this period, you can start Finishing work inside the building and the arrangement of the bath.

P.S. And for dessert I suggest watching a video clip: Building a bath from a bar

The article examines in detail the technology according to which a bathhouse is built from a bar with your own hands. The text describes the process correct selection materials, design features of a future wooden bath, creating a foundation for it, erecting walls, taking into account the formation of window and door openings in them, as well as other stages of construction and finishing work.

For the construction of a bath in a summer cottage, various building materials can be used. There is an extensive range on the market that allows you to achieve any performance characteristics from the future structure. If the owner suburban area decided to build a turnkey timber bath, the price will be one of the most important criteria for choosing a material. In addition, personal preferences are taken into account. If the construction will be carried out with his own hands, the choice may also be based on the experience of working with a certain material.

Most often, the owners of suburban areas prefer wooden buildings selecting projects from a rounded or bar. These materials combine the beneficial advantages of natural raw materials and a relatively low price.

Advantages and photos of baths from a bar in a summer cottage

The popularity of timber as a building material for a bath is due to a large number of advantages. First of all, consumers are captivated by the natural origin of this raw material. The wood is environmentally friendly, it does not contain at all toxic substances and impurities, therefore it is completely safe for humans. Having little practical experience in handling it, a person can build a bath with his own hands in a fairly short period of time. Moreover, the work is done with a minimum set of tools.

The bar has excellent technical characteristics... It can be easily stacked in rows, due to which the structure does not take much time to shrink. The price of log cabins made of timber is more democratic than other buildings. The material retains heat well, creating optimal climatic conditions inside the premises and filling the air with a pleasant aroma of wood and natural resins.

The timber can be glued and profiled. The last of them has a special structural structure that allows the assembly of walls using the thorn-groove method. The result is a very strong and reliable structure.

Useful advice! If you do not want to wait long for shrinkage to occur, you should not choose a profiled material. For these purposes, glued laminated timber is better suited, the price of a turnkey bath made on its basis is much higher, but the construction is more reliable. In addition, this material is less susceptible to deformation changes.

The timber lends itself easily to all types of processing, it is malleable and does not impose design restrictions. The material allows you to build baths with almost any design features and layouts:

one- and two-story;
with one or more entrances with a porch;
with a veranda;
with a terrace;
pool, etc.

The construction of a bath does not require the construction of a solid foundation. The use of a bar simplifies the technology as much as possible. In many ways, this material even better than logs... It is convenient, cost effective and does not require a fit on the ground during wall construction. The material can be laid immediately on the foundation.

How to build a bathhouse from a bar with a terrace: photos and recommendations

The bathhouse is used for taking water procedures, however, this is not its only purpose. Here people can relax and unwind. Moreover, this can be done in the open air, if the building provides for the presence of a terrace. The smaller the dimensions of the structure, the higher the need to create this additional structural element. In self-made baths made of timber 3x4 m or 4x4 m, the presence of a terrace will allow you not only to add useful space but also give general view buildings finished.

If the construction is carried out with your own hands, it is better to opt for the project of a one-story structure. A 4x6 m bathhouse will be an excellent option. In this case, you need to make a support-column foundation. It is desirable that each cabinet contains 4 blocks. A profiled beam is suitable for walls. Optimal height premises with such dimensions of the bath is 2.15 m. For the construction of partitions, you can use frame-panel technology.

Structural features and overview best options for implementation. Construction recommendations. Original ideas planning.

Since the attic is characterized by a special temperature and humidity regime, the floor is additionally insulated from heat and moisture using film material or foil. Then the insulation is laid and the finished floor is installed. The ceiling is sheathed with lining.

Based on the calculated height, a rafter stop is formed. To do this, you need to take the bars of the required length and install them as vertical supports. A bar is laid on top of them in a horizontal position. Supports are placed in 1.5 m increments. In the process of assembling the structure, you can do without cuts. Self-tapping screws or metal corners are used for fixing. To increase the reliability of the stop, you can fix it on the floor beams using corner boards.

In the next step, the length of the rafters is measured. This takes into account the departure. In this case, 3.2 m is enough. Planks of 100x50 mm can be used as rafters. To build a 3x3 m bathhouse, 6 pieces will be enough. According to the technology, the extreme rafters are first installed. Then you should pull a rope between them. This will allow the rest of the roof to be laid flat. The most reliable option for fixing structural parts is the notched method, but metal corners are also suitable.

Installation of a roof on a do-it-yourself sauna from a bar

Ondulin - optimal material for the organization of the roof. It has a low cost and is of sufficient quality. If the laying of this material is done correctly, the roof will turn out to be solid. This eliminates the likelihood of leaks, so there is no need to use hydro-barriers.

For the installation of roofing material, a frame base in the form of a lathing is required. Outwardly, ondulin resembles asbestos-cement sheets. Unlike slate, its installation will require a crate with more frequent placement of slats. Alternatively, for the construction of the frame, you can use non-edged boards of small width. They are more convenient for driving nails. When building the lathing, it is very important to ensure that all rows are placed evenly. In the absence of experience, it is better to immediately lay out the first row, check its position, and only after that start hammering in nails.

Note! It is desirable that each sheet of ondulin be supported in four places. For this, the slats are laid at a distance of 35-40 cm from each other.

For fixing ondulin, ordinary slate nails are suitable. The fasteners are installed along the upper wave. The lower the angle of inclination of the roof, the more the sheets should overlap each other. In this case, it will be enough to make an overlap of about 10 cm. You need to hammer in the nails very carefully, otherwise you can damage the wave. If desired, a storm drainage system can be arranged on the roof.

The space located between the wall of the bathhouse on the side where the slope rises and the rafters are clogged with boards. That's all urgent work finished. The frame can now be left to shrink. During the winter, all deformation changes will occur, the relative humidity of the material will reach its natural value. If you do not want to postpone the construction of a bath from a bar for several months, you can continue to work by arranging the bath from the inside.

Shrinkage bath flooring made of profiled timber

The floors in the bath are formed according to the principle of a pie, where the materials are laid in layers.

The optimal flooring scheme is as follows:

sand and crushed stone pillow;
concrete screed 20-30 mm thick (no reinforcement required);
extruded expanded polystyrene plates;
insulating film layer "Izospan D";
concrete screed 80-100 mm thick with reinforcement.

In addition, you need to do expansion joints... For this, sheets of EPSP with a thickness of 3 cm are cut. The seam is laid along the entire perimeter of the room, as well as around the base intended for the installation of the oven. At the same stage, the internal wiring of water pipes and sewerage is being set up. Next, sand and gravel are poured onto the floor, after which the pillow is compacted. A concrete screed is poured over it. It is better to use a rule to level the surface.

When the screed is completely dry, Izospan can be laid. The canvases should be laid with a slight overlap. The material should partially overlap the expansion joint. All edges of the film and joints are fixed with adhesive tape. Next, the installation of expanded polystyrene sheets is carried out.

Useful advice! Experts recommend using extruded polystyrene foam boards with a thickness of 6-10 cm.

Plates do not need to be fixed, but they should be laid as tightly as possible. After that, another layer of Izospan is laid, which is also fixed with tape. Next, a reinforced concrete screed is poured. When it is dry, you can install heating equipment, and then finish the floors with tiles, porcelain stoneware or other material.

How to build a podium in a bath from a bar for installing a stove

The base for the oven must be waterproofed. To make the equipment look aesthetically pleasing, it is advisable to build a podium of bricks 10 cm or more on top of this layer. For this, two continuous rows are laid out. Before doing this, you need to provide protection from fire.

A rectangle is drawn on the floor according to the dimensions of the furnace structure. The markup is done strictly at the place where the equipment will be installed. Next, you need to make allowances of 5-10 cm on each side and draw another rectangle of a larger size.

Important! It should not be forgotten that there must be a distance of at least 38 cm from the walls of the heating equipment to the cladding of the room.

A protective sheet will be installed in front of the firebox door, the dimensions of which are 50x70 cm. The sheet should run along the stove. On the floor, markings must be applied for its installation. If the combustion door opens into an adjacent room, the protective sheet is installed there.

Taking into account the dimensions of the rectangle drawn on the floor, a part is cut out from the minerite slab and screwed along the markings using self-tapping screws. A couple of solid rows of bricks are laid on top. You can use a red corpulent material, but fireclay is preferable. First, you need to soak the bricks in water.

It is better to fix the brickwork with cement mortar with refractory properties. Be sure to check the horizontal placement of each row. If there are deviations, the bricks can be knocked out with a mallet or their position can be corrected by adding mortar. Then refractory is diluted adhesive composition and with its help a protective steel sheet... Instead of metal, you can use porcelain stoneware, which perfectly tolerates the influence of high temperatures. In two days, it will be possible to start installing heating equipment.

Not only the floor needs protection from temperature and fire, but also the walls of the bath. Most often, for these purposes, protective screens are used in the form of brickwork, natural stone or porcelain stoneware. Due to this, the cost of building a bath from a bar increases, but the result is aesthetically attractive. There are more budgetary ways eg applying a 2.5 cm layer of plaster on top of a metal mesh or installing a steel screen.

Note! The stainless steel sheet provides protection not only from heat, but also from infrared radiation.

We build a bath correctly: the technology of arranging a portal for a stove

To install the stove inside the bathhouse, a partition is formed between the relaxation room and the steam room. A pair of beams is taken (their length should correspond to the height of the premises), pre-impregnated with an antiseptic and installed vertically. Self-tapping screws and perforated corners are used as fasteners for the ceiling and floor. The horizontal jumper between the bars is fixed in the same way.

The result should be a frame base in the form of the letter "H". The lower part will house the brickwork and the fuel channel of the furnace. The upper area will be insulated and sheathed with lining. Basalt wool slabs 10 cm thick are installed between the beams. Next, a horizontal lathing is formed from wooden slats with a cross-sectional size of 2 cm.

Using construction stapler, it is necessary to fix a vapor barrier material with a foil coating on each side of the frame partition. The lining is mounted vertically on the lathing with nails or clamps. Before making a brickwork, it should be soaked in water. The material is stacked according to the level. A distance of 3-4 cm is maintained between the masonry and the timber. The fuel channel of the furnace should also be located at the same distance from the brick.

If it becomes necessary to cut the material, it is better to use a grinder for this. The use of steel corners will simplify the process of making the floor, because the brick will rest on them. When the laying is completed, minerite or basalt cardboard should be inserted into the gaps between the brick and the timber. It is not allowed to use foam or glass wool for these purposes.

Useful advice! Via wooden platbands you can close and decorate unsightly areas with insulation between the timber and the brick.

If, according to the project, it is planned to build not only a portal, but also a protective screen made of bricks in a bath from a bar, the heating equipment is installed in its place immediately and covered with a film that will protect this area from dirt during internal works... In other cases, the oven can be installed after the completion of construction and finishing.

Electrification of a bath from a profiled bar: construction of wiring

When working with electricity, it is very important to adhere to all the rules and requirements for the installation of electrical equipment. These regulations contain all the necessary information on the safe supply of electricity to the bath, the correct wiring and connection of devices.

First you need to decide in what way the power cable will be supplied:

Air.
Underground.

The cable can be fixed directly on outside wall baths, after hiding it in corrugated pipe or a protective box made of plastic. Since it is strictly forbidden to enter the self-supporting insulated wire directly into the room, a box with circuit breaker two or four poles. The hole through which the cable will be introduced into the room must be reinforced with a metal tube with grounding. The rubber tube cannot be used in this case.

A specialist who understands the design of networks for rooms where there is an increased level of moisture and temperature should work on drawing up a diagram. It is worth deciding whether the connection will be three-phase or single-phase. This affects the cabling. A three-phase connection is advisable if a large number of powerful electrical equipment will be installed in the bath.

It is advisable to carry out the installation of electrical wiring according to the drawn up scheme by an open method. It is not only safe but also convenient. It is possible to hide the wiring under the casing only in the steam room.

To secure the cables, you can use:

staples;
porcelain insulators;
cable trays.

Useful advice! To add aesthetics to the wiring, it can be hidden under European skirting boards or cable ducts .

a step-down transformer;
automatic machines.

It must be installed as close as possible to the exit, since in this zone the level of temperature and moisture is the lowest in the room. The shield must be grounded, and also check that all wire fixings are secure. Boxes, sockets and switches must be installed in the break room. Installation of these elements in a steam room is unacceptable.

Wiring regulations:

Arrangement of door and window openings in a wooden bath

For self-made door and window openings experience with wood and specialized equipment is required. It is much easier to purchase the necessary products in finished form... Moreover, the structures can be both wooden and metal-plastic. For installation, you will need to perform preparatory work.

Existing openings need to be trimmed and leveled, since each beam is not adjusted during the laying of the log house. To do this, you need to apply markings on the wall with the linear dimensions of door and window openings. Sawing requires an electric or gasoline saw... With this tool, you need to cut off the ends of the beams that protrude beyond the markings.

Further, on the basis of boards 100x50 mm, boxes are made for the installation of door and window structures. If you don't want to mess around with the manufacture of grooves and spikes, the assembly of parts can be done by driving nails into the end part. The boxes prepared for the installation of windows and doors are placed in the openings and fastened with screws or nails.

Important! It is imperative to leave a free distance of 3-4 cm between the box and the upper bar. It is no longer required, since the height of the bath is small. This is necessary in order to compensate for the changes that will occur during the shrinkage of the building, otherwise the door can be blocked, and the window structures will lead.

The gap left in the upper part is insulated. For these purposes, polyurethane foam or tow is ideal. Then the doors and windows can be installed. If wooden windows are selected for the bath, they should be fixed to the casing with self-tapping screws. If you do not want to drill the box, you can limit yourself to using anchor plates as window clamps.

Installation metal-plastic structures requires professionalism and special skills. Therefore, the installation of such windows should be carried out by the company from which they were purchased. This approach will eliminate errors in the installation of structures and receive a guarantee. The same goes for double-glazed doors. The door to the steam room must open outward. This requirement is dictated by security considerations. External placement of crossbars and hinges is made. Such an installation will exclude the negative influence of temperature and moisture on these elements.

Interior decoration of the bath: how to build and sheathe the frame correctly

As a decoration for the washing room and steam room, you need to use natural lining. It is not recommended to use other material for these purposes. The rest room is less demanding in this regard.

Wall decoration in it can be done:

plywood;
plastic clapboard;
OPS, etc.

Of all the materials listed, the lining installation technology is considered the most difficult. To install it, it is necessary to build a supporting frame. This process requires diligence and care. For the manufacture of the frame, wooden slats with a cross-sectional size of 50x20 mm are suitable. Before starting work, the surface of the walls should be leveled, eliminating strongly protruding parts. After that, the markup of the future frame is applied.

According to the marks at the corners, the extreme slats of the base are nailed. To install exactly wooden elements a level is required. To do this, a rope is pulled between the extreme slats. Focusing on it, you need to install the remaining frame slats. They are attached at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Next, you need to check the height parameters at the corners of the bath. In this area, the distance between the ceiling and the floor is measured.

Useful advice! If there are height differences between different corners, this defect can be eliminated on the last and first row of the lining. For this, the material is fixed with a small gap at the floor and ceiling. It will be enough 1-2 cm. The slots that are formed in the process will be covered with skirting boards. The baguettes must be nailed directly to the lining and not to the ceiling base. Otherwise, during the shrinkage of the building, the cladding may deform.

To fix the lining on the frame, nails are needed. The optimal length of fasteners is 1.5-2 cm. These nails are driven into the groove of the lining, thus, the material is fixed on wooden slats frame.

Methods for mounting lining on a wooden frame made of rails

Lining elements can be mounted vertically or horizontally on the walls. Methodology vertical installation panels are accompanied by one significant drawback. In this case, the heating of the lining along the length is uneven. As a result, the service life of the coating is significantly reduced.

Vertical clapboarding is ideal for rooms with sauna climatic conditions. When operating in a steam room, there is a high temperature and low level humidity. To increase the circulation of air flows between the sheathing and the insulation, several small holes should be drilled in the lining.

With the horizontal placement of panels, deformation changes occurring in the lining under the influence of temperature will be less noticeable. This method allows you to visually increase the size of the room, which is an undoubted advantage for a small steam room. The horizontal fixation of the lining maintains air circulation, since the panels are attached to the vertical slats of the frame, due to which there are vertical gaps. It will be more difficult for rodents to penetrate the finish through such a coating.

In general, everyone can handle the construction of a small bath. V to a greater extent the result depends on the diligence and quality of materials, as well as the correct adherence to technology. And such complex processes as the design of the wiring diagram and installation metal-plastic windows can be trusted to professionals.

Do-it-yourself construction of a bath from a bar 150x150: video instruction

Bath in the country or on the site country house- is no longer a dream, but a necessity. The owners of private housing projects develop a construction project in such a way that it includes all the necessary buildings - a garage, a barn, a bathhouse, a pavilion. Therefore, the construction of a bath from a bar in Lately is rapidly developing and popularized. But since the land plots are mostly small, the owners choose smaller bath projects, for example, a 100 x 100 bath (section of a bar) measuring 3 x 3 m with a ceiling height of 2 m.Even in such a small building, both a steam room and a shower room will fit. , and a rest room. All operations must be regulated by SNiP 31-02-2001. In larger projects, a bath is being built from a bar of 150 x 150 with additional rooms that improve the comfort and functionality of using the building.

Small-sized log bath - we select building materials

You need

Building materials	Measurement units and quantity	Drawing
Portland cement grade M 400	150-160 kg
Beam with a section of 150 x 150 mm	3.5-4.0 m 3
Edged board 50 x 100 mm	0.3-0.4 m 3
Rail with a section of 20 x 50 mm	25-26 running meters
Lining	0.5-0.6 m 3
Edged board 25 mm	0.3-0.4 m 3
Refractory fireclay brick	500-550 units
Andulin roof	10-11 m 2
Concrete blocks	30-35 units

It is also necessary to prepare in advance insulation, nails, electrical wiring and its components, self-tapping screws of various lengths and diameters, corners for assembling truss structures, fittings, plastic or wooden windows and entrance, as well as internal doors. In addition, if you plan to connect the water supply to the bath, then you need to think about the organization of the sewerage system. For our own hands, water supply and sewerage were not developed.

Video instruction

How to lay the timber and raise the walls of the bath:

Procurement of building materials, cost and estimate:

We build a log bath ourselves - steps from the base to roofing works:

Any construction of a bath from a bar can be conditionally divided into specific stages:

Pouring the foundation.
Erection of a log house.
Installation of rafters and roofs.
Plank flooring.
Installation of windows and doors.
Laying of electrical wiring, installation of lamps and installation of other electrical equipment.
Interior wall decoration, exterior wall finishing work.

Stage 1. Pouring the foundation

The best option to build a bathhouse from a bar with your own hands is concrete base.

The tool you'll need

Entry tool.
Wooden stakes or fittings, cord, tape measure, level.
Building material for the assembly of formwork.
Rebar and tie wire for concrete reinforcement.
Factory concrete or concrete mixer, shovel, mortar preparation container, cement, gravel, water, sand.
Waterproofing materials.

The site should be leveled and the perimeter of the foundation should be marked with pegs and a cord. If we build a bathhouse from a bar small size, then the foundation will be shallow, and a trench for it can be dug with a shovel. Trench depth - up to 50 cm.

Stage 2. Strapping and walls of a log bath

Construction operations	How to do
Foundation marking	We mark out the contours of the base in dimensions 3 x 3 m. For the internal partition, the foundation is not poured. Stakes are driven in at the corners, a cord is pulled.
Reinforcement	The reinforcing frame is knitted from rods with a diameter of 12-14 mm, a knitting wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm is used to connect the longitudinal and transverse rods. The distance from the frame to any trench surfaces is 5-7 cm.
Pouring concrete	On the clay soil it is not necessary to assemble the formwork - you can pour the solution into the trench immediately. It takes 14 days for the solution to harden.
Column base for oven	Economy projects of baths made of profiled beams provide for a stove that will be erected between the steam room and the relaxation room, so that the heat gets into two rooms at once. The base for the stove is deepened to the level of freezing of the soil, sand pillow under the foundation - 20-30 cm thick. In addition to sand insulation, you can use foam sheets with a thickness of 2-3 cm. The foam plastic prevents the soil from swelling, and the foundation will be motionless.
Base waterproofing	The upper part of the base must be protected from moisture. For this, the concrete surface is covered with two layers of roofing material or thick polyethylene.

The bars will be connected as follows: the ends - in half a tree, the corners - in the paw.

It is recommended to impregnate the first two rows of beams with antiseptics and fire retardants, and then lay them on roofing material, laid in two or three layers. The lower beam should have markings for windows and doors of a bath that has not yet been built. Corner connections the beams are fastened additionally, it is possible with pins or corners. When erecting a bath of 3 x 3 m, intermediate pins will not be needed.
Next, the floor beams are laid for flooring. The distance between the beams is 1.3-1.5 m.
The gaps between the timber are insulated with tow, linen, jute or more modern thermal insulation materials such as tape.
If, nevertheless, it became necessary to install intermediate dowels, then they are fixed after 1 m. The dowels can be wooden or metal. At the corners of windows and doors, pins are attached at a distance of 0.2 m from the edge of the opening.
After the set of walls, the ceiling is mounted. The beams for it are mounted in two rows from the upper edge of the wall, the approximate height of the ceiling that the do-it-yourself timber bath will have is 2 m.The beams must be cut into half a tree; for a small bath in our project, two beams are enough for the ceiling.
The two remaining rows of wall beams are laid on the ceiling beams. These two rows should be fixed especially firmly, since the last beam will serve as a mauerlat in the rafter system.
Before arranging the roof, you need to make at least a temporary ceiling - it can be covered with any boards, since at the end of the roofing work they will be removed, and a permanent ceiling will be arranged.

The main problem when building a bathhouse from a bar with your own hands is to bring the frame of the bathhouse under the roof so that the rest of the work can be carried out not in the rain and wind, but in a protected room.

Stage 3. Roof

Arrangement schemes are for single or gable roofs. If we are building a small-sized bathhouse from a bar with our own hands (three by three meters), then a single-pitched inclined version of the roof fit better.

Under pitched roof the ceiling is immediately made permanent, it is insulated with foam. The characteristics of the heat insulator are shown in the table below:

Foam Board Brand	Density,	Compressive strength at 10% deformation, ≥ MPa	Flexural strength, ≥ MPa	Thermal conductivity of dry foam at 25 ± 5 0 С, ≤ W / (m K)	Foam moisture, ≤%,	Burning time, ≤ seconds	Moisture absorption per day, ≤%	Service life, years (minimum - maximum)
PSB - C 15	10-11	0 , 05	0: 07	0,037	1	3	1	20-50
PSB - C 25	15-16	0,1	0,18	0,035	1	3	1	20-50
PSB - C 25 F	16-17	0,12	0 , 2	0,037	1	3	1	20-50
PSB - C 35	25-27	0,16	0 , 25	0,033	1	3	1	20-50
PSB - C 50	35-37	0,16	0 , 3	0,041	1	3	1	20-50

The ceiling is insulated step by step as follows:

Boards up to 20 mm thick are attached to the beams from below.
Styrofoam is attached to the boards.
Boards are also laid on the beams from above.

During construction gable roof you can equip a temporary ceiling, and you can insulate the permanent structure later. Collect walls, build rafter system and it is necessary to lay the roof before the frost begins. During the winter, the building will sit down, the moisture content of the materials will stop at a constant level.

Video instruction

Ceiling insulation with foam:

Stage 4. Flooring

If you use projects of baths made of profiled beams, floor logs may not be installed. Beams are laid in increments of 1 m, they are laid on edged board 30-40 mm thick. It is recommended to make a slope on the floor towards the water drain of 2-3 0. Waste sewer you do not need to equip, since:

A shallow foundation will allow drains to quickly soak into the ground.
A small do-it-yourself log house is the minimum water consumption.

Video instruction

How to put boards on the floor of the bath:

Step 5. Laying electrical wiring

After calculating the total power of all electrical appliances, you need to add a margin of 2-3 kW.
The electrical cable is divided into categories according to the cross-section of the conductors. For example, 0.5 mm 2 can withstand ≈ 2.5 kW of load. It is better to buy verified licensed products, since a fake can have a wide range in terms of power and cross-section. For complete peace of mind, it is better to buy a cable with a margin of these parameters, for example, with a cross-section of not 0.75 mm 2, but 1 mm 2.
It is imperative to equip a common grounding - high humidity and high temperatures pose a danger to the operation of the bath. Grounding is simple and quick: you need to drive a steel rod with a diameter of 16-20 mm into the ground, the immersion depth is 1 m. A bolt is welded onto the rod, and the grounding cable is connected to it.
Everything electrical cables in the bath must be protected by a metal casing - corrugated or solid. The cover will help prevent fire and will also serve as a protection against rodents.
Before laying the cable, arrange for yourself a small allowance in the form of a diagram or plan for the location of outlets, lighting fixtures, and other electrical equipment.
After that, markings are drawn on the walls, holes for fasteners are drilled, wiring is mounted.

Step 6. More about windows and doors

The most difficult thing is to make doors and windows for a bath - you will need a woodworking machine, experience in working with it, drawings of structures with exact dimensions. It is easier to purchase factory products, and PVC windows will also be appropriate in the bath. Doors can be wooden, MDF or PVC. Steps for assembling structures:

Both door and window openings are aligned - filed, planed, etc.
Before installing the products, it is necessary to assemble special wooden boxes for them - you will need boards of 5 x 15 cm. The frames are assembled on nails, inserting it into the opening, you need to leave a gap of 30-40 mm from above - the frame may begin to sit down.
In the openings of doors or windows, plank boxes are also fastened with nails or self-tapping screws. The upper slot is insulated polyurethane foam or traditional thermal insulation materials.

Video instruction

How to install windows in a wooden bath:

Stage 7. Set of frame and fastening of lining strips

For decorating the walls of the steam room and the shower room, clapboard is traditionally used. For the restroom, it is allowed to work with any building materials - plywood, OSB, fiberboard, chipboard, plastic or MDF. It is more difficult to work with clapboard, so we will consider this step in more detail:

For supporting frame you will need slats with a section of 20 x 50 mm.
First, the extreme slats are attached to the wall, a cord is pulled between them, the frame slats are attached along it with a pitch of 400-500 mm.
The difference in height between the ceiling and the floor surface in the corners of the bath is removed. Discrepancies are leveled by fitting the strips of the lining from the bottom and from the top. Between the strips of the lining and the floor, ceiling, it is necessary to leave gaps of 10-20 mm in size. Subsequently, the gaps will cover the skirting boards. The plinths of the ceiling should be fixed to the lining, and not to the ceiling boards, otherwise, when the bath shrinks, the sheathing may bend.
For the installation of strips, nails with a length of 150 mm are suitable, they are driven into the grooves of the strips.

Any building materials are suitable for outdoor decoration. If you are building a cheap and small bathhouse, then it makes no sense to use expensive cladding. Window and door openings, as well as openings interior doors need to be closed with platbands. Availability on the market of cheap and beautiful materials allows you to choose any finish.

Video instruction

Internal thermal insulation of the bath, interior decoration and wall protection:

The construction of a bath is what most summer residents and owners think about. country houses when arranging backyard territory... Many people prefer natural wood as a building material, in particular, many pay attention to timber. About him and will be discussed further.

Wooden beams has a number of advantages:

Good ratio prices for quality;
Ease of installation. Even an inexperienced builder can independently and without much difficulty build a small bathhouse on his site;
The timber gives minimal shrinkage compared to similar building materials;

This article will cover step-by-step instruction building a bath from a bar with your own hands, as well as advice on choosing quality material, foundation and much more.

First stage: design and selection of materials

As with the construction of any other building, for the bath you need to create a drawing, sketch, plan - call it what you want. To draw up a plan, it is better to contact special design agencies, they will help you create an individual project just for you, taking into account all the features of your site, and will also give some advice and recommendations.

At this stage, it is necessary to study the soil on which the construction works... The choice and technology for the construction of the foundation depends on the result of the analysis. All points should be presented in the finished plan: the number of rooms, the total area, the thickness of the walls, the appearance, the main building, and facing material, the location of the oven should also be selected in advance, since it is necessary to provide for separate foundation.

*Important! The total area of the bath depends mainly on the expected number of people who will use it. On average, for each person it is necessary to provide additional 4 square meters.

For any bath project, the following premises are characteristic:

Dressing room;
Veranda (optional);
Washing room;
The steam room or sauna itself;
Restroom;

If the bathhouse will be used by only two or three people, then some rooms can be connected to increase free space, as well as expand their functionality. For example, a washing room can be presented in the form of a shower stall and located in one of the corners of the rest room. Or even the shower can be located outside the building, on the site.

The service life of the bath directly depends on the quality of the material from which it was built.

What you need to know and what you should pay attention to when choosing a bar:

Procurement period. Ideally, the timber should be harvested in winter from December to March.
Keeping period. After purchase, the material must be cleaned of the bark, if you harvest it yourself, leaving it only at the edges, and store in a dry place inaccessible to direct sunlight for one month. Only after that the tree is subject to processing and installation.
Appearance and the general condition of the raw materials. When buying, carefully inspect each bar. It should be free of decay, fungus (small blue spots called blue) and wormholes (traces of insect infestation). The timber should have an ideal geometric shape, smooth edges. The absence of even the smallest cracks is an indicator of high quality, because moisture can accumulate in them, and a wet tree will begin to collapse very quickly.
Variety... There are four main varieties: "Extra", "A", "B" and "C". They differ in quality and price. The "Extra" variety is the most expensive, but the price is fully justified. It is unlikely that you will find any defects on the bars of this type. Grade "A" is not much worse than its "older brother", cheaper, but almost identical in quality. The other two grades are used mainly for exterior decoration and the construction of secondary buildings such as a barn, chicken coop, and so on.
Wood species. For the construction of a bath, it is better not to use coniferous bars, because when heated, this tree can "cry", increasing the chance of ignition due to resin, and in contact with the skin it can burn it. Experts advise using hardwood, namely linden, larch, oak. If desired, you can make a steam room from linden, since such a room heats up faster, does not burn the skin and respiratory tract, and the dressing room and other rooms are made of larch. True, linden has some peculiarity - it is less resistant to external influences (temperature, moisture), but cheaper.
Dimensions. A bar with a length of 4 or 6 meters is considered standard, all other options are considered non-standard and are more expensive, so it will be easier to build a 3x3, 4x4 square bath, and so on.
Storage method. In addition to what was said above, there are a number of requirements for the method of storing the material. Usually wooden blocks kept in packs or stacks, observing the gaps: between each other - 50 mm, between rows 100 mm and from the ground at a height of 200 mm.

In addition to the main building material, you will also need:

Cement brand M400;
Sawn timber;
Boards and slats;
Lining for finishing (external and internal);
Refractory and red ceramic bricks for the oven;
Roofing material, most often shingles.
Nails, screws;
Galvanized corners for fastening;
Reinforcement rods for creating a foundation reinforcement belt;
Insulation blocks;
Cement blocks;
Cable, sockets, lighting etc.

It is better to take all materials with a small margin, since no one is immune from accidental damage, and, in any case, they can be used on the farm.

The construction of a bath from a bar is easier and faster than from brick, cylindering or chopped logs. By quality characteristics it is not worse, and even better when using glued or profiled material of natural moisture. This article will become a guide for those who are just going to build a bathhouse from a bar with their own hands. Readers will get acquainted with the main stages of assembling a bath, from foundation to roof, and will see photos and videos from specialists.

For the construction of a bath, you can use any timber. You need to count on your wallet and the ability to carry out further finishing or not. It is also important from which timber the main house was built, it is better if the material in the ensemble is used alone. There are several factors to consider when installing:

The type of wood from which the material is made.
Grade of a bar.
Type of timber (glued, profiled, edged).
The degree of drying of the material (natural moisture or chamber drying).

It is easier to build a square bath, for example, 3x3 or 4x4. It is important that standard length beams of 4 and 6 m, the rest are considered non-standard and cost more. During construction small bath near the house, a box of 3x3 m is considered optimal.

You can collect a traditional Russian bath or a Turkish, Finnish sauna from a bar. The material is not worse than a log and has many advantages. An excellent option for a bathhouse for a house and a summer residence, the main thing is to choose the right project and assemble a log house.

Log houses for a bath are sold ready-made "for assembly", it is easier to purchase and assemble them. We will tell you how to do this correctly below.

Wood - wood strife

For the construction of a bath, it is recommended to use linden or larch timber. Pine and spruce are cheaper, but due to more resin at high temperatures the walls will start to "cry". Of course, you can carry out interior decoration with linden clapboard, but this is an additional waste.

Linden timber is less resistant to impact environment and moisture, but in the steam room it heats up not so quickly and is more pleasant with tactile contact with the skin. You can cheat and purchase part of the timber from pine or larch, and part from linden. The steam room is assembled from linden material, and the dressing room and the washing room are made of larch. True, such a design requires an individual project. There is glued laminated timber, in which 1 or 2 upper lamellas are made of linden, and the inner ones are made of pine., Typical projects easier to assemble from this. Although larch or cedar baths are also not uncommon. The first option is cheaper.

A, B or C grades, we learn to choose a bath

The grade of the timber is also important. Of course, glued or planed chamber drying can be purchased without fear. But if it comes about profiled or edged timber, you should be careful. It depends on how strong and durable the bath under construction will be. Grade A or Extra has no cracks, wormholes, irregularities, but its price is higher than the rest. You can build a bathhouse with your own hands from material AB or B. The main thing is to make sure that wormholes and rotten knots do not fall on the beam. Slight color irregularities are acceptable, but should not be confused with blue. Blueness is a direct sign of the spread of rot and fungus, and already infected wood will not last long.

Cracks are also unacceptable, this is either a sign of improper drying or incorrect storage. And if the material is of natural moisture, then during shrinkage, the cracks will disperse and heat loss will increase. And this should not be allowed in the bathhouse.

According to GOST, small companies do not perform timber sorting, due to the lack of certain criteria by which it is worth subdividing varieties. Therefore, it is worth looking at varieties from various manufacturers, it may turn out that one will have better grade C than B, etc.

How the manufacture of the material affects the construction and use of a log bath

Disputes about which timber is suitable for the construction of a bath do not subside on the forums to this day. To say definitely that one of the types cannot be better, since they all have their pros and cons:

Type of timber for a bath, various processing		Advantages of building a bath	Cons when building a bath
Profiled	Natural moisture	Easy to mount The locking connection provides additional warmth and wind insulation. Low price. Eco-friendly.	Over time, you will still have to do additional insulation, and it is almost impossible to dig through the walls additionally Over time, you need to carry out external and internal finishing.
Profiled	Chamber drying	Fast assembly No finishing needed Can be used immediately after construction Environmentally friendly Need a lightweight foundation	High price Need constant care with antiseptics
Glued	Not required	We need a smaller section, so DIY construction is fast. External and internal finishing is not needed. No additional insulation is needed. We need a lightweight foundation.	High price. It is worth arguing about environmental friendliness, since the glue used to connect the lamellas can emit vapors of folmadehyde.
Simple bar	Cut natural moisture	Cheap Fast assembly Environmentally friendly Lightweight foundation suitable	Additional insulation and caulking is needed When shrinking, it cracks and requires external and internal finishing. It can twist when dry and the bath will "lead".
	Chamber drying	the same as for natural moisture, except for a low cost.	High price We need insulation and caulking
	Planed chamber drying	Fast assembly Environmental friendliness Suitable for lightweight foundations No front and inside finishing required	high price Over time, it will still crack and darken.

Chamber drying or natural humidity?

In any case, no matter what the manufacturers promise, a bath made of a bar for shrinkage will settle down and will be worse than chamber drying. After a while, the walls will darken, and the cracks will spread even more when dry. The main reason for this is improper drying of the material. A bar with a section of 100 mm or more in Russia, very few people dry properly. Therefore, when purchasing material, construction companies always measure the moisture content in the middle of the product with a hand-held moisture meter. You can buy timber from a winter forest, when the natural humidity is almost identical to the drying chamber. Yes, and construction in winter period is cheaper.

Purchase and calculation of material

You can calculate the amount of timber for a bath according to the project or on the online calculator, of which there are many on the websites of any construction company. It is impossible to carry out a correctly drawn up project on your own. You can entrust this part to specialists. When calculating, it is necessary to take into account the structural features, as for the timber it should be selected so that there are few joints on the walls. But when buying, it is better to take a small stock (2-3 bars). When building with your own hands, you can accidentally make a mistake and spoil the part. But you should not worry about spoiled lumber, it will go to window or doorways, and other small parts.

The main stages of the installation of a log bath

The entire installation of a bath from a bar takes place in several main stages: installation of a foundation for a bath, laying the first crown, laying walls, installing a roof (rough or final). Let's dwell on each one in more detail.

Installation of the foundation for a bath from a bar

Since the timber bath is a lightweight design, the foundation is either tape or columnar. In any case, the markings are pre-made around the entire perimeter.

You can read more about installing the foundation for a bath in this article.

Any of the foundations must be additionally reinforced with reinforcement. It is later used to attach the crown.

Installation of the first crown under a log bath

Before laying the first crown, it is necessary to waterproof between it and the foundation. It is best to use a coating based on bituminous mastic. It is easy to apply and dries quickly. After that, the top of the foundation is covered with roofing material in 2 layers. On the strip foundation two rows of small stacks are laid, only after that they begin to install the first crown.

The first crown is laid a bar of a larger section and preferably made of moisture-resistant wood, for example, larch or aspen. You need to lay the crown exactly in level. if you skip the curvatures, the entire masonry will "creep" in the future. It is not necessary to bind the lower crown to the foundation, since further pressure from the structure will not allow it to move. But for greater confidence, you can tie it in several places with a knitting wire to the reinforcement. But if you want to dismantle lower part it will be problematic over time.

Before laying lower crown need to be treated with deep penetration antiseptics, for example, Senezh. The grandfather's method of processing by working off engine oil will also work. Only after laying the first crown can you correctly proceed to the walls.

Beam laying - the traditional way on dowels

The easiest way is to lay profiled timber. Its lock connection is tightly connected, and the elements are folded like children's designer... You can connect the timber to each other with iron or wooden pins. It is better to use wooden ones, since when dry, the iron pins become visible and the structure looks unsightly.

The pins are fastened by drilling holes in increments of 1-1.5 m. You need to drill the bar so that the first bar is drilled through, and the second only half. The dowels are driven into bottom bar, and the top is simply worn on them. The dowels of each subsequent row should not be located one above the other.

Jute insulation is laid between the timber. You can use any other, but in practice, jute tape has shown itself to be better than others. So the walls are assembled link by link. It is not necessary to fasten the two upper beams with dowels, since after assembling the box, they will have to be temporarily dismantled to install the beam ceilings.

Door and window openings in the bath for shrinkage can be completely not laid out after shrinkage, they are sawn through with a saw.

The final stage in the construction of the bath will be the laying of a finishing or rough roof. If the bath is assembled for shrinkage, then the rough roof is laid for a year and only then the final one is mounted. For this, the upper row of the timber is covered with boards 50-60 mm wide and closed with roofing material and slate. All finishing work also begins after complete shrinkage.

For a bath from a chamber-drying bar, a clean roof is mounted, a drainage system is made Wastewater, drain ventilation system and interior decoration. We will talk more about all these stages in the following articles.

You can do the construction of a bath with your own hands in 1-2 months, but despite the simplicity, the timber of especially natural humidity, 4 or 6 m long, is heavy, so it is difficult to cope with the work alone, look for an assistant.