How to fix the wire in the strobe. Fastening wires - the main methods of fastening and options for wiring installation (80 photo ideas) Fastening the electrical cable to the wall

The choice of accessories that make life easier for craftsmen of all stripes is simply huge today. The market segment intended for the hard work of electrical workers was no exception.

Depending on the method of laying the wires, the fasteners for the electrical wiring also differ. In this article, we will try to cover the entire modern assortment as fully as possible, so it will be useful for both working craftsmen and those who prefer to do everything with their own hands.

Fastening it so that in the future, when plastering or closing the strobe, it was securely fixed and not interfered with? To do this, it is important to remember two rules: place the wires geometrically correctly in the places recommended for this and use reliable fasteners. Which of them are provided for flush-mounted installation, we will consider in this chapter.

Dowel clamp

This mount is one of the most common. It is easy enough to mount and provides a secure fit, and the price of this product will not greatly burden your wallet. There are several varieties of this mount, which differ from each other not only externally, but also functionally.

So:

The simplest version of this product is a bracket-type mount. It is a strip of plastic with locking notches at both ends, 6-8 mm wide. The size and shape of the mount is selected in accordance with the cable to be installed. The fixation quality is average, since there is no spacer. Therefore, the use of such brackets for ceiling mounting can create some inconvenience.

To fix the element in a concrete or any other base, it is enough to pass a cable through it and install it in a pre-drilled hole of the required diameter. For greater reliability, it is recommended to install the brackets at a distance of 50 - 60 cm from each other.
This type of fastener is designed for wires with a diameter of 6-25 mm. It is also possible to mount bundles of cables, for which it is necessary to take into account the type of insulation that must be suitable for group laying.

The next type is a dowel clamp with a spacer. The design of this product is significantly different from that discussed above. The photo shows that in its composition there is a strong plastic rod, which is hammered in with a hammer, after installing the toothed part in the mounting hole.

This type of attachment is more durable and can withstand loads of up to 8 kg. The cable holder is made in the form of a fastening clamp, which allows you to fix power cables, corrugations and even smooth-walled pipes, the diameter of which does not exceed 32 mm.
This fastener has one drawback - after installation, it cannot be reused. Therefore, when using this type of connection, be careful when placing the attachment points.

How to properly distribute the wiring in the house

Installation site Is a mount that resembles a hybrid of the previous two options. It is a dowel equipped with a mounting head with a hole for a plastic or metal tie. Made from nylon or polypropylene. In the presence of a solid base, it adheres perfectly to the wall, due to the shape of the rod. It can be used to easily fasten both a single cable and a whole group.

Advice! If you decide to use this type of fastening outdoors, then make sure that the clamps used are UV resistant. The instructions on the label will clarify this information - most often such screeds are black.

Clamps for cables

The following is a clip-like mount. This design is more durable than the clamp dowel, since a metal screw is used for the spacer, thanks to which, if necessary, the entire structure can be easily dismantled and moved to another place.

Fixing the wire is carried out simultaneously with the installation to the wall. It is important that the diameter of the cable to be fixed clearly corresponds to the diameter of the clamp, which is necessary in order to avoid sagging or squeezing the wire insulation.

Fasteners type PP

Another type of clamps is a PP type dowel. It has several varieties that differ from each other in shape and size, which are determined based on the type of wire to be fixed.

The installation is similar to the installation pad or "bracket", the only difference is that the cable is pressed directly against the wall. Also, using such a mount, you can install pipes. If necessary, this connection can be easily dismantled.

Homemade fasteners

If at the right time you did not have a single staple at hand, and the store of household goods is far away, then do not rush to get upset, because it will not take much time and effort to make a homemade analogue.

For work you will need: ordinary dowel screws or dowel nails, as well as a two-core wire or galvanized iron plates. We cut the wire (iron) into pieces 5 - 7 cm long. We make a hole in the middle and push our dowel there. Everything is ready, you can clearly see the result in the next photo.

It is also possible to use a single-core wire (wire) - in this case, the dowel must be wrapped with wire at the base of the cap.

For fixing the cable in the groove, a quick-setting gypsum mortar is perfect. This method requires some skill, since the time before solidification is very short, and you need to work it out very quickly. Therefore, mix the gypsum in small portions.

To facilitate the task, we will offer one original way to fix the wire before the mixture hardens. If the strobe has straight edges, then use pieces of corrugation, which will serve as spring struts. This is enough to hold the cable.

Surface Mount Brackets

If the electrician in the house is carried out after the repair, then the method of open wiring is used for this. It is simpler in execution, but due to the fact that the wires remain in sight, it requires more care during installation, and the fasteners used here, in addition to the main function, should bring some aesthetics.

Cable channels

One of the most convenient, beautiful and at the same time inexpensive ways of surface mounting is fastening using cable channels. It is a rectangular pipe with a removable front panel, which is attached to the wall using ordinary self-tapping screws, dowel screws or nails.

After installation, a group of wires is placed inside and closed with a cover. You can easily choose the desired color scheme and even texture, thanks to which this mount will invisibly fit into the interior of your room.

There are also more complex options, one of which is shown in the diagram above. Most often they are presented in the form of electrical skirting boards. Certain qualifications are required to install such a system.

Clips

This type of connection is intended for fastening cables placed in an additional insulator - polymer corrugation. Due to its rough appearance, it is most often used in inconspicuous places and technical rooms, it is also perfect for outdoor installation.

To install the clips, use self-tapping screws or dowel screws, then just snap the corrugation into them. The resulting connection will be very reliable and practical.

Insulators for retro style

Today, when creating an interior in a "retro" style, they often use the method of open mounting, which was used at the dawn of the age of electrification, for which modern manufacturers produce special wires and fasteners. Such wiring looks very beautiful in wooden houses.

The cable is fixed with a ceramic insulator, which provides a safe gap between the conductor and the wooden base. During installation, be careful not to overtighten the screw to avoid damaging the insulator.

Staples

In the above photographs, you see the types of brackets for direct mounting of the wire to the surface. Their installation is simple and intuitive, but due to the danger of direct contact of the cable with the wall, use this fastener only if the wires are double or triple insulated. Most often they are used to fix a television cable.

Mounting area

If you need to fix the wire in places where surface damage is undesirable (furniture, tiles), then use the mounting pads. They come in various shapes and colors, but they have one function - you just need to glue such fasteners in the right place, and you can pull the wire.

Specialized mounts

How to properly conduct the wiring in the house if there is no way to drill the surface at the locations of the cables, or the type of conductor has an unusual specificity? To do this, rare, but no less useful installation devices will come to your aid.

So:

The metal mounting tape is designed to secure the cable in compliance with the required laying step. It is used when installing underfloor heating, ice protection systems and heating outdoor areas. It is very convenient to use when attaching large groups of conductors. It has a width of 21 mm and a distance between flexible fixation points of 25 mm. There are two types - copper and galvanized steel.
When installing de-icing systems, it is necessary to run the cable inside the downpipes. There are two types of fasteners designed for this - galvanized tape and special plastic clips.
Separately, we note the aluminum tape designed for installing wires on water pipes. It provides maximum heat dissipation and a high cable-to-pipe tightness.

The reader who has read this article, for sure, has understood how to properly conduct wiring in the house and what devices are most suitable for him. However, we strongly recommend that you watch the video presented on this page. Perhaps you will discover something new for yourself.

Increasingly, the choice of consumers falls on suspended structures, which are convenient for mounting, and also provide a smooth and beautiful surface, the shapes of which can be very diverse, as well as colors. However, laying wires under such objects is not an easy task.

So how do you fix the cable to the ceiling if you are about to mount a suspended structure? This question will be given instructions and answers as you progress through this article.

Preparatory work

In order to correctly lay the wires under the ceiling, you should know some points:

Where is the main switchboard
What brand and what section of the cable
Where is the equipment located
What to apply the method of wiring, based on the specifics of the room

After completing the first step, you can begin to select the necessary cable and tools. Guided by the recommended standards, you should opt for the VVGng cable, which can be used as both a recessed and an external wiring system.

The possibility of laying electrical wires depends on where the electrical equipment is located. So, if it is not possible to lay hidden electrical wiring, then it is worth planning a route along which external cables will pass.

Fastening the cable to the ceiling from the outside

Currently, there are several types of external wire attachment:

Carrying them out in a special metallized or corrugated sleeve
Steel pipe gasket
The use of electrical pipes made of plastic
Application of cable channels
Fastening the cable to the ceiling with insulators and brackets

A wide range of cable channels of various styles for home and industrial premises is presented on the site lotki-lider.ru

Any of the above options for external mounting of an electric cable can be suitable for a home, but it all depends on the situation. It is better to mount some types on one type of surface, and it is undesirable to use some for the same surface.

What are the surfaces and methods of laying electrical wires for them

Wood-type ceiling

A wooden ceiling is best fitted with steel pipes. Their transverse dimension strongly depends on the diameter of the electrical wires. In addition, several cables can be placed in one tube at once.

It is better to use IP65 boxes as branching to the electrical consumer, which must be assembled from a refractory material. Inside the box, it is necessary to eliminate the possibility of touching the cable veins to its walls by applying insulation. This technique is important when installing both recessed and exposed wiring.

The process of installing a cable to a tree:

First, the minibus is laid out for laying the wiring.
Next, you should mark the location and install the distribution and passage boxes.
Then the tubes are shortened to the required length, fastened to the ceiling. Further, the pipes are connected to each other by welding.
All wobbling of the wiring is required to be performed at an angle of ninety degrees.
With the help of a broach, the cable is stretched from box to box, leaving leads at the ends, the length of which will be adequate for desoldering in boxes (about 20-25 cm).
Next, the wires of the wiring in the boxes are adhered using welding or soldering. Further, the cable is insulated.
Then you need to conduct grounding.
Finally, the last step is to check the integrity of the resulting wiring.

How to fix a cable to a metal ceiling

The metal surface of the ceiling is a good conductor of current, so it is necessary to approach the cable installation as responsibly as possible in order to avoid unpleasant incidents. Thus, it is best to run the cable in plastic electrical conduits.

This material is perfect for a junction box. However, if the room is not suitable for the installation of this material, you can run the cables in steel pipes.

Installation features:

The marking of the route along which the cable will pass is carried out.
It is necessary to determine the location of the passage and junction boxes.
Excess tubes should be cut off, then fixed to the ceiling, and then glued by connecting the structure.
It is necessary to use a corrugated tube when turning the cable route, which must be made at right angles.
Use a broach when laying the cable from box to box, leaving leads at the ends, the length of which will be 20-25 cm.
Adhesion of cable cores in boxes is made by welding or soldering. Then they need to be insulated.
After these steps, you should check the structure for integrity.

Cable laying on a reinforced concrete slab

These slabs are found in old houses, therefore their design is somewhat different from that used in the construction of modern buildings.

The slabs are currently being prepared during construction. Electrical pipes made of plastic are laid in advance, installation and passage boxes are laid in the future ceiling. Next, the floors are filled. However, this is typical for modern designs, but not for old houses.

The use of reinforced concrete slabs forces the cable to be routed through the channels, but often at the edges of the slabs or inside there are concrete bumps that make it difficult to wiring.

An open cable can be laid over a reinforced concrete slab in the following ways:

Features of cable conduction in plasterboard construction

A distinctive feature of such a false ceiling is the limited access to electrical wires, so it is necessary to plan in advance the places for servicing the wiring. The fixing of the cable to the ceiling will be carried out using a method that is suitable for the existing ceiling base, be it metal, concrete or wood. Similar techniques are mentioned above in the article.

Plasterboard allows you to easily hide the wires, so there is no need for hidden cable routing. However, it will be necessary to move the distribution and passage boxes outside the ceiling in order to facilitate access to them.

Fastening the cable for plasterboard construction, see the video:

Features of wiring installation in a rack ceiling

This ceiling is hemmed, like the previous one, so that many of the features of the plasterboard structure are also suitable for the slats. Therefore, the junction boxes should be removed from the ceiling to allow easy access to them.

A slatted ceiling is often installed in bathrooms, so ceiling wiring must be done:

In electric pipes made of plastic or corrugated analogs, provided that the ceiling is made of reinforced concrete.
In steel pipes, provided that the base of the ceiling is wood.

Features of wiring for cassette ceilings

In the event that the ceiling is made of reinforced concrete or metal structures, it is necessary to use corrugated or plastic electrical pipes.
If the ceiling surface is made of wood, then steel pipes must be used.

Installation of wiring under a stretch ceiling

Laying the cable under a stretch ceiling is a hidden wiring, therefore you should be especially careful during installation. In addition, the material used in this ceiling is not resistant to high temperatures, therefore the wires must be placed in corrugated tubes. Moreover, the junction and passage ducts should be located outside the ceiling.

Installing the cable in an electrically conductive panel

These ceilings are modules filled with polyurethane foam. These plates are fitted with conductive plates. Modules can be connected up to 5 pieces to one connector. Wiring is laid based on the characteristics of the room, whether the ceiling is made of reinforced concrete, wood or metal. In addition, the wire distribution boxes should be removed from the ceiling.

Electrically conductive panels look great at night when all lights are out except for the ceiling. Having taken a photo of this ceiling at night, you can enjoy the unusual contrast of light and darkness.

The proposed options for placing the wiring on the ceiling and under it are basic and relatively easy to reproduce on their own. If you carefully follow the installation instructions and comply with all safety standards, then problems with electrical wires should not arise, and the installation of lighting fixtures will turn into a real pleasure.

: laying and fixing the cable to the wall, floor or ceiling has to be done in an apartment with a rough finish, during redevelopment or renovation. Also, when installing new household appliances, you have to pull a separate line from the electrical panel.

Consider how to fix the wires on the wall so that they do not spoil the interior with their appearance, comply with electrical safety rules and are protected from external influences and accidental damage.

Depending on how you decide to route the wiring around the rooms - in an open or hidden way, the method of attaching the wires to the wall is chosen. In this article, we will look at the popular ways of attaching a cable - dowels, ties, staples, clips, their pros and cons.

Cable fixing

When installing the cable, various methods of fastening are used. It all depends on the specific conditions, financial capabilities and tastes of the owners of the premises. When performing these works, everything must be securely fixed, the insulation is not disturbed, and the appearance corresponds to the surrounding environment and is favorable.

The materials from which the walls and ceilings are made can have different densities and structures. The cable, depending on the task, can be fully or partially "hidden" in grooves (grooves), plastic pipes, corrugations or special trays. And if there is no great need for this, you should secure it more carefully.

All this can be done with a wide variety of tools. We will try to consider in more detail the most common types of fastening.

General rules

In principle, the recommendations are universal and uncomplicated. The distance can be reduced if necessary. For example, on the turns of the track, fasteners are installed at a short distance from the bend - 5-10 cm. The task is to ensure reliable fixation and prevent sagging.

When using screws, dowels and self-tapping screws, try to tighten them all the way. Otherwise, the protruding cap can damage the insulation.
The maximum distance between the attachment points should not exceed 50 cm, and at the bend (turn) points, it can be reduced to 5 - 10 cm.
Laying is carried out without humps, evenly and preferably in a straight line (horizontally or vertically).
If a margin is provided, it should be made less noticeable.
With hidden laying of cables in the strobe, they are laid so that they do not interfere with the further decoration of the walls.
If you have suspended or stretch ceilings, there is no need to make grooves under them.
The main tools that should be used during installation are a drill, hammer drill, screwdriver, screwdrivers and hammer.

Fasteners for hidden gaskets

When cables are being installed during the renovation phase, they are increasingly being used inside walls, floors or ceilings. Since the result of the work is invisible, the minimum attention is paid to aesthetics. But a lot of attention is paid to reliability and safety - access for alteration is very, very difficult.

Any type of screed - with dowels, mounting pads, etc.
You can choose a suitable size clip type.
Make homemade fasteners.

If you are making a plasterboard suspended ceiling, the wiring can be attached to hangers or laid inside the profiles. Only during installation, do not lay the cables close to the profile wall - so as not to damage during operation.

For laying large bundles of wires on the ceiling, it is more convenient and faster to use trays, but you can still use the same fasteners. The only bad thing is that you have to drill a lot of holes for installing fasteners in concrete or brick. This is especially inconvenient when working on the ceiling. How to better optimize work in this case is a little below.

If the presence of false walls or a finished floor is not expected, grooves are made under the wires - grooves. Wires are laid in them, then they are covered with a solution and after that they are already finishing.

From the point of view of aesthetics, the option is ideal. From the point of view of operation, it is problematic, since it is almost impossible to replace or wiring without breaking the walls. Nevertheless, the wiring is done this way, just trying to lay high-quality cables, and even with some margin of power or the number of pairs.

According to safety rules, a cable in a non-combustible sheath or in an all-metal tray is laid in combustible walls (wood, panel and frame). If we are talking about a non-combustible shell, then usually it is a corrugated pipe made of non-combustible plastic compound. In this case, the actual sheath is attached, inside which the cable is located.

This does not particularly affect the choice of the type of fastener, but it does affect the selection of the size of the fastener - it is just necessary that the clips can cover the shell.

The installation of cables inside combustible walls is difficult: the requirements are very strict. They can be done in frame or panel houses, but in squared or log cabins it is very difficult. It is necessary to lay all-metal trays in the walls.

In this case, it is necessary to take out a large amount of wood, which does not improve the thermal performance, and it is not possible to make the appearance ideal. Therefore, in wooden houses, they often resort to the open method of installation - over the walls.

Fasteners for exposed routing

With external cable routing, more stringent requirements are imposed on the fasteners in terms of appearance. Since everything is in sight, it is necessary to select the most inconspicuous options, or vice versa, the most decorative ones, for example, retro wiring.

Installation in cable channels. These are plastic trays that are attached along the walls. Not the best way from the point of view of aesthetics, but if it is necessary to lay a large number of wires in wooden houses, perhaps the cheapest and most convenient to install.
Laying a certain number of wires in special skirting boards.
Using staples from a stapler. The most inconspicuous fastener, moreover, it is installed quickly.
Fastening with staples and clips painted to match the cable.
There is a choice, but all methods are imperfect, because everyone decides for himself how and with what to fix the cable.

Fastening the wire to the wall

Depending on the type of surface, the method of fastening is also selected.

Soft and thin.

These include walls made of foam concrete, aerated concrete, fiberboard, plastic, drywall, etc. Simple fasteners will not hold here. More reliable and stable will be special devices in which the end or middle part is made extended. These can be butterfly dowels, umbrellas or dowels with a drill.

Dense.

These are wooden, gypsum, plastered surfaces, OSB and chipboard. In this case, use ordinary screws or simple nails. If the screws are screwed in with great effort, you can pre-drill holes with a smaller diameter.

Solid.

Brick and concrete walls are the most common materials in this category. Here, even into pre-drilled holes, it will be problematic to screw self-tapping screws just like that. It is in this case that dowels should be used.

Most often, they consist of a plastic cap and a screw. Holes are drilled in the wall. For concrete and brick walls, the drill diameter must match the dowel diameter (drill 6 mm - dowel 6 mm).

For less dense surfaces, the drill should be 1 mm thinner (drill 5 mm - dowel 6 mm). Caps are inserted into the holes, the end of which should not protrude from the surface. Then the fasteners themselves (clamp, plates, etc.) are attached to them using screws.

Fixing the cable to the ceiling

It is necessary to fix cables to the ceiling mainly when installing stretch ceilings or ceilings made of plastic panels and plasterboard. In the case of drywall, everything is somewhat simpler: there is a suspension system to which you can fix the wiring harnesses with plastic ties.

In other cases, everything is somewhat more complicated: you have to drill a large number of holes for fasteners, because all the same clips and staples are used, and under each you need to install a dowel (if the ceiling is made of a concrete slab).

Using cable trays (described above).
After attaching a number of lines to the ceiling, suspend small wiring harnesses from them using plastic ties.
Use a long perforated metal strip for fastening.

How to fix the cable in the strobe

It is necessary to take care of the laying of cable harnesses long before the final finishing of the room: precisely when the apartment still has no trace of furniture, no things, no wallpaper, no linoleum, nothing at all. In a word - bare walls, as in one famous TV show.

On these bare walls, we define and mark the route along which we will have cable lines. The markup can be done using a construction pencil and a level.

It will not be superfluous to remind here that the cable lines should not be located anyhow, but go either horizontally under the ceiling (at a height of 2.5 m), or strictly vertically along a plumb line. No diagonal transitions and horizontal line segments at a low level are strictly not allowed.

When marking the walls, we immediately determine the location of the sockets, switches and, because the holes in the wall for their installation will need to be made at the same stage as the grooves for laying the cable.

The width of each groove is determined in accordance with the number and section of the cable that will be fixed in it.

Gutting

Having completed the markup, we move on to the next question of primary importance. How to shtrobit? There are plenty to choose from.

Most often, a perforator with one of the special nozzles is used to perform a groove. The first of these nozzles is called the strober. The strober is a slightly curved blade with a longitudinal groove. The end of this blade is sharpened and is intended for deepening inside the punched groove.

You should work with the strober in a purely percussive mode, without rotation. The strobe from him turns out to be neat and deep. However, with the help of this device, a strobe wider than the strober itself can be performed only in a few steps, which, of course, is not very convenient.

Another nozzle often used for chipping with a hammer drill is a regular flat blade. The principle of working with it is approximately the same as with the strober, but the performance is slightly lower.

The usual sharp peaks for a hammer drill or even a drill, oddly enough, are also sometimes used for chipping, when nothing else is at hand, and the amount of work is very small.

And yet, one should not expect great performance when chipping with a perforator, especially when it comes to chipping concrete walls. Therefore, for large volumes of work, many electricians use a disc cutting tool to complete the strobe.

An angle grinder (angle grinder), or, more simply, a grinder with a diamond segment disc, is often suitable as such. With its help, cuts are made along the edges of the groove to the required depth, and the middle part is subsequently easily knocked out using the same perforator.

Despite the seemingly much larger number of working operations, chipping with a grinder is much more productive than the same work using only a hammer drill. The reason is that the grinder makes every cut very quickly in one single pass.

The most productive tool for chasing is a chasing cutter - a device very similar to a grinder. The chaser has two cutting discs parallel to each other.

The distance between these discs is adjustable, which means that you can set the width of the groove within the required limits. The position of the discs relative to the bearing surface, that is, the depth of the groove, also changes.

Disc cutting tools have only one drawback compared to a hammer drill. Of course, there is a lot of dust and dirt when chipping with a perforator, but from the cutting disc this dust does not even fly in clubs, but in a continuous stream.

If an electrician neglects personal protective equipment when chiseling with a grinder or a chasing cutter, then after finishing several objects, he risks having a disease of the lungs and / or eyes.

Therefore, protective goggles, a respirator and earplugs when performing strobes are far from a luxury, even if you are working with a puncher. Your health is always more valuable.

Professional wall chasers, by the way, are equipped not only with a protective cover for discs, but also with a standard branch pipe for connecting an industrial vacuum cleaner, which can absorb most of the generated dust.

Mounting the cable in the groove

And now the strobe is completed, the dust and fog have dispersed, and you can start installing the cables. Unfortunately, the requirement for the replaceability of hidden electrical wiring when laying the cable in the gutter most often has to be neglected. Making large and wide strobes in which a pipe for cable routing could be placed is not always possible.

Therefore, as a rule, cables are laid in a gutter with bundles, without any additional protection. The insulation of the most popular cable for home installation - VVGng - is quite reliable and does not fail with this method of installation.

You can fix the cable in the strobe in one of the following ways:

With a perforated strip.

It was these nylon perforated strips that were used in the bulk in the construction of our "favorite" panel "Khrushchevs". The strip was attached across the groove with dowels and reliably held the entire mass of cables, regardless of their number.

How to fix a cable in a gutter using an aluminum mounting strip.

This is sold in any electrical store. Actually, it is not necessary to buy it: if you have free time and patience, you can make it by cutting any thin and ductile metal.

For installation, the strip is punched in the middle and screwed to the bottom of the groove using the popular “self-tapping-dowel” pair. Cables are laid on the strip from above, and its ends are bent with pliers, forming a tight and reliable lock. The method is, of course, laborious, but still very popular.

It is quite possible to fasten the cable with alabaster.

We pull the cable line along the strobe and immediately fix it with a solution that we keep at hand. The disadvantage of this method is that the alabaster solution cannot be diluted in large quantities due to the fact that it dries very quickly.

The most "advanced" and productive way of fastening the cable in the groove is fastening with dowel clamps.

The dowel clamp is a dowel with an installation size of 6 mm. At the end of it there is a special loop that allows you to hold the bundle of cables. Thus, installation using dowel clamps is extremely simple: you just need to punch a number of holes with a puncher, and then insert the dowel clamps with a fixed harness into them.

Types of fasteners for cables and wires

With a forehead mounting type of wiring and cable, the same types of fasteners can be used. It is selected based on the available conditions, capabilities and tastes of the owners.

The main task is to ensure high-quality fixation and not break the insulation either during installation or during further work and operation. And choose the type of attachment from the possible options.

There are quite a few of them - there are special ones that are produced specifically for cables, there are borrowed from other areas, there are homemade ones.

Dowel clamp

Plastic dowel cable clamps are designed to hold a single cable. It is very easy to fasten the cable dowel with a clamp. To do this, we just need a perforator and a concrete drill with a diameter of 6 mm.

Notches are made on the sides of the clamp at an angle, which prevents it from falling out of the wall. If the drill and clamp are sized correctly, the dowel will never fall out of the hole.

First, a hole is drilled in the concrete to the required depth (depending on the length of the dowel itself), then the clamp is opened and the cable is laid in it, after which the clamp is pushed into the hole.

Dowel clamp for fastening the cable can be in two versions: for flat and round cables.

The positive aspects are low cost, quick installation method, and reliable fixation (you can be sure that the cable will not break off under its own weight).

With the help of a clamp dowel, the cable can be fastened to concrete, brick, foam block, decorative stone. Suitable for both open and hidden fixing of wires.

This type of fastening is sometimes referred to as clip dowel or clip dowel.

Dowel clip

The dowel clip is more inconspicuous during installation. This is a curved strip of plastic with characteristic branches at the ends, which, due to the elastic force, will hold the fasteners in the wall or ceiling material.

The shape of these products is for round and flat cables of different sizes. But serious cables cannot be fixed with them - they are too small. But they look very neat on conductors of small cross-sections, including television, telephone and for the Internet.

They are installed simply: a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled, a conductor is inserted into the clip, the ends are tucked into the hole and inserted with effort. A really good option - it is quickly mounted, you look neat. Mainly used for exposed wiring.

Another option for quick fastening of the cable is the dowel tie. It is made of non-flammable self-extinguishing plasticizers, allows you to quickly install cable lines. It can be used for both surface and concealed installation.

The dowel-tie is a quick and convenient way to fix the cable to concrete, brick and other surfaces.

There is a tie with a detachable and one-piece lock. The split lock allows you to change the number of wires if necessary. The installation method is the same as for a conventional dowel. The difference is that the dowel is also plastic.

Staple

Cable clamps are available in plastic and metal.

Metal cable clamps

As a rule, this method is used for fastening cables laid in a metal sleeve. Metal brackets have a hole for fastening on one or both sides. The size of the staples can be selected depending on the diameter of the metal hose. Excellent resistance to mechanical stress, suitable for "holding" heavy cables.

The advantage is "reusability". You can easily replace, shift, add-remove the cable, you just need to unscrew the screw.

With this method of fastening, the cable is fixed to the surfaces using pre-prepared fastening structures; it is traditionally used to fasten the wiring.

Reliable fixation, thanks to which the cables can be pressed very tightly to the surface.
Fixation of several parallel cables, for this you do not need to drill a bunch of holes, and a long bracket-fastener can capture and fix 3-4 (and even more) cables at once.

Two-core aluminum noodles or PTPZh - a harder wire, usually used as staples. The bracket itself is fastened to the wall using "quick mounting" (6 x 40 or 6 x 60) or using construction nails (if the walls are lined with gas silicate).

As a rule, it is used for surface mounting of single cables. The plastic bracket is equipped with a nail for fixing, therefore it is suitable for installation on soft surfaces such as wood, chipboard, plastic (you cannot hammer such a nail into concrete).

During my practice, I often had to see this method of fastening television and telephone cables. Providers are very fond of using plastic brackets for fastening an Internet cable.

In general, if the repair has already been completed and you need to carefully route the cable over the baseboard, this is ideal - simple and cheap.

Clip

With the help of clips, you can fix the cable on the wall, ceiling, floor. You just have to choose the right design, and there are a lot of them. Fastening the cable with clips is a very popular method - it can turn out very neatly and almost imperceptibly. This is if an open wiring is supposed to be laid.

These fasteners are quite useful for open cable routing. The clips look pretty neat after installation. They can be of various sizes, shapes and be metal or plastic,

A simple version has the form of a bow, on both sides of which there are holes for dowels or self-tapping screws. Nice and simple design, but there is a small disadvantage - two holes must be drilled for installation. This slightly increases the installation time.

There are metal and plastic clips for cable mounting, and of different shapes. The simplest ones have the form of a bow, which on one side and on the other has holes for screws or dowels. They are all good, but installation requires two holes to be drilled, which is time consuming.

There is an option that allows you to maintain a fire gap when installing a power cable on combustible surfaces (in the photo on the left). This fastener is fixed with one self-tapping screw to the surface. It is good in that, if necessary, threads can be added to the same fastener. To do this, you do not have to remove it, you will need to unscrew the screws holding the upper part of the clip.

The third option is a kind of loop made of a metal strip. To install it, you first need to bring the cables inside, then align the holes and fix them to the surface.

All of these clips can be used both on the wall and on the ceiling. But when laying a large number of threads on the ceiling, they are inconvenient - too many holes are required for installation. They are made of metal, some are then painted - so that the fasteners stand out less during external laying.

Plastic clips are used primarily for securing cables in corrugated hoses. They are available in different sizes for different corrugation diameters. They can be installed as a single unit or assembled into rulers - for more accurate installation of large bundles of wiring.

This type of clips is used mainly for hidden gaskets, but if the corrugation is laid outside, then it is more convenient to fix it with their help.

An excellent option for attaching the cable to dense surfaces: wood and its derivatives, plaster - a clip with a nail. There is a hole on the side of the plastic bracket, into which the stud is inserted. The shape of the nail brackets are round and rectangular - for conductors of different shapes.

Fastening the cable with such brackets is quick and unobtrusive. Most often, small-sized wires are also attached - television, telephone, for the Internet.

Another option for quick installation. Consists of a threaded dowel and a platform with a coupler attached to it. First, a dowel is installed, a platform with a screed is screwed onto it. Wires are attached to the finished track.

KSP - cable tie with a mounting platform for a dowel

Material - non-flammable plasticizer, color - gray, temperature of use - from -45 ° C to + 85 ° C. Can be attached to concrete, brick and wood surfaces.

Even the smallest staples and clips are still quite noticeable. There is a way to make the fasteners virtually invisible, at least in some cases. If you have a construction stapler, wires and telephone cables can be attached to wooden surfaces or plaster with special brackets.

They have long legs and a rounded back. There are special staples for stapling cables with plastic stops (middle picture). They do not allow the wire to be transmitted, which happens when working with conventional brackets if too much force is applied to the trigger.

A good way to do it at high speed - just one press on the stapler lever and the staple is already installed. For an hour, you can fix a decent footage. Another positive point is that the fasteners are hardly noticeable; when dismantled, very small holes remain in the wood, which are also practically invisible.

With plaster and chipboard, OSB is somewhat more difficult - the damage may be greater, however, they are still less noticeable than from nails, even the smallest ones.

The disadvantage of attaching cables with a stapler is significant size restrictions. Such staples are never large. The maximum size of the staple width is 12.5 mm, and even then not in all types.

This is more than enough for the installation of telephone "noodles", an Internet cable or other similar conductors, but already VVG or NYM cannot always be fixed in this way. In addition, these cables have more rigid insulation, which requires more frequent installation of staples.

This cable holder is made in the form of a square platform. They can be square or more oblong. I prefer using the second option as they are more durable. There is a mounting hole inside for fastening. Sometimes in stores you can find an abbreviation like PMO (platform with a mounting hole).

Installation is also not difficult. To begin with, a hole is drilled in concrete with a diameter of 6 mm, an ordinary dowel is inserted into it, and the platform is attached to the base (wall or ceiling) with a self-tapping screw.

Then we take a regular nylon cable tie and use it to fasten the cable to the site. This method allows you to attach several wires and cables to one site. This means that fewer holes need to be drilled, which accordingly speeds up the installation process.

The positive aspect is ease of use, quick installation, the ability to attach several cables to the site at the same time.

The fastening of the clip for the corrugation is carried out with a dowel and a self-tapping screw. Clips are selected depending on the diameter of the corrugation. The advantage of clips is that they can be assembled into blocks (for this there are special locks on the side) and several cable routes can be laid simultaneously.

Mounting tape

The metal mounting tape is designed to secure the cable in compliance with the required laying step. It is very convenient to use when attaching large groups of conductors. It has a width of 21 mm and a distance between flexible fixation points of 25 mm. There are two types - copper and galvanized steel. Each tape clip has a folded tongue and tab. The petal protrudes above the surface of the tape, which makes it easier to bend it, for example, with a screwdriver. A slight bend at the end of the tongue ensures that the cable is securely “locked”.

Cable duct is a very common way of fastening wires and cables in an open way. According to many electricians, this is the most convenient mounting method. The cable duct is made of galvanized steel, non-combustible plastic, aluminum and represents the simplest U-shaped structure.

In this technical box, wires are laid and closed with a one-sided or double-sided cover.

floor;
trunk;
plinth;
parapet.

When installing the channel cable, first markings are made on the wall, then fastened with self-tapping screws, dowel nails or "liquid nails".

It is not always necessary to fix the wires permanently. In some cases, you just need to arrange the bundles so that they do not get confused. For example, there are usually a lot of wires to the desktop.

There is no need to fix them rigidly - after a while, alterations may be required, and holes remain from the hammered nails, which can no longer be masked on the table. For these purposes, there are various devices. They are more commonly referred to as wire or cable holders.

For example, the same staples, but of a different structure. On the right in the photo above, you can see a cable clip with double-sided adhesive tape attached to the back.

For fixing on furniture or plastic panels - it is very convenient, the glue can then be washed off, and the surface remains intact. In the center - the second option with the same idea, and on the left is the so-called mounting platform for attaching cable ties.

First, these pads are attached to the surface - they also have Velcro on the back. Then the bundle of wires is attached to the holes with a regular plastic tie. Not so convenient and neat (the tails of the ties will stick out), but it can also be used.

Homemade gadgets

It often happens that there are no suitable brackets, pads or clamps to secure the cable. All these elements can be made by yourself.

Of course, in terms of their design, they will most likely be inferior to the factory elements, but in some cases this is not so important. And if the arms grow from where they are needed, then the fasteners can be quite a worthy replacement for branded fasteners.

A wide variety of materials can be used to make the mounting elements. It can be single-core or double-core wires, plastic, galvanized sheet and much more. Here are some of the DIY options.

We cut two-wire pieces of wire, the length is selected depending on the attached wire. We thread a self-tapping screw into the middle of each.

We wrap the same, but single-core pieces around the head of the dowel or self-tapping screw.
We cut the tin strips. We punch a nail or self-tapping screw into the middle.

ease of manufacture and installation;
there is no need to search for fasteners and buy them in stores;
the ability to use (installation and replacement) homemade products multiple times;
you can fix one or several wires at the same time.

Many factory gadgets are relatively inexpensive, but when hundreds of them are required, the amount of money comes up. And if the wiring is hidden, it is required, for example, to fix the cable in the gutter, why brick up the extra money, if you can get by with improvised means. This is what a homemade cable mount is made of.

Tin strips + nails or dowels - depending on the wall material. The tin is preferably galvanized, but it can be "obtained" from beer cans. It is cut into strips with a thickness of 7-10 mm, a hole is made in the center into which a nail is threaded.

First, fasteners are stuffed along the route with a step of 60-100 cm, then the cable or wire is clamped with tin strips. In order for the cable to be securely fastened, it is advisable to clamp the ends in a lock.

From galvanized metal, cut into strips about 1 cm thick, you can make the simplest U-shaped bracket. Nails at the ends, use as ordinary staples - grabbing the conductor every 50-80 cm. Can be used to fasten wires to walls and ceilings.

Also, a strip of tin can be used to fasten the cable in a loop. The strip covers the cable after which the strip is attached to the wall (see photo on the right).

This option can also be used to fix the conductors in the strobe. It will be distinguished from the usual external fastening only by the step of installing the clamps - they can be installed less often, since their task is to hold the cables until the solution hardens, with which the strobe is sealed.

In the same way, you can fix wires in a protective sheath - corrugation, pipe, etc. Only the strips will be required of greater length and, possibly, width - for a more reliable fixation. A nail or a self-tapping screw is suitable for wood, a dowel is required for brick and concrete.

With improvised means, you can also fix the bundles of wires. With a longer strip of sheet metal, several conductors located one next to the other can be fastened. It is more convenient to use perforated metal for this (for example, mounting hangers for suspended ceilings), but you can get by with ordinary strips of tin.

These are the main types of cable fasteners that you can do yourself. Surely there are other options - the imagination of the craftsmen is inexhaustible, but these are the most common.

Cable trays - for concealed laying of large bundles

When lighting the ceiling from spotlights, you have to lay a large number of wires, and they have to be fixed to the ceiling. When it comes to apartments, the floors are most often a concrete slab.

It is difficult and long to drill a lot of holes in it; it is not much easier to fix wires individually or in small groups. For such cases, overhead cable trays are used. They are usually made of galvanized wire or perforated metal.

They are available in different sizes, there are several different types of fastening - on studs attached to the ceiling, on "T" or "L" -shaped hangers.

The installation procedure is as follows: first, the structure is assembled and mounted on the ceiling, then cables are thrown into it. If desired, they can be fastened with ties to the gratings, but this is usually not necessary.

In addition, there are metal trays made of perforated and non-perforated metal. The latter are necessary when laying cables inside combustible walls - in frame houses, for example.

The same trays can be used when laying cables in underground space. But then you can use the perforated version. It will also provide excellent protection against rodents and accidental damage.

Fastening the tray to the ceiling and ceiling structures

Recommendations for the method of attaching the tray to ceiling posts
The method is similar to fixing shelves and brackets to a wall, with the only exception that the brackets are not attached to the wall, but to special ceiling posts or to prefabricated structures from ceiling supports and a mounting profile.
Fastening of trays with brackets to the ceiling is carried out using a prefabricated unit - a ceiling bracket.
The complete ceiling bracket is attached to the ceiling using anchor bolts or a drop-in anchor.
Driven anchor using a special tool for driving the anchor, and then bolts are screwed into it. Anchoring makes it easy to sort out or dismantle the mounting structures.
The ceiling bracket must be installed every 1-1.5 meters (i.e., the same as with any other installation method: at the joints and in the middle of the cable tray).

Similarly, the installation of trays is carried out using free-standing (without support to the wall) floor stands.

Fastening on punched tape is the cheapest solution, but due to insufficient rigidity it has limited application: low load, low suspension height, small width of cable trays, difficulties with the expansion of mounting structures.
The punched tape is attached to the ceiling with bolts screwed into the anchors.
The channels are attached to the punched tape with screws, nuts and washers.
The distance is selected in the same way as when fastening with brackets - at the joints of the trays and in the middle of the tray (1-1.5 m).
As a more convenient, practical and reliable alternative to this method, it is proposed to fix the trays to the ceiling using C-hangers.

Content:

Electric networks connect various sources of electricity to consumers with wires and cables. Depending on the magnitude of the voltage, all components of these networks are subdivided into those up to 1000 volts, as well as into several groups of higher voltages. The largest number of consumers have voltages up to 1000 volts. Accordingly, in this group, the structure of the power grid turns out to be the most complex. Since there are many consumers, it means that the wires and cables connecting them are numerous and therefore must be ordered.

Electrical safety and PUE

Just in case, we remind you that electricity is a source of increased danger. And in some cases, the work of an electrician is compared to the work of a miner who makes a mistake once. Therefore, in electrical engineering, a kind of charter called PUE ("Electrical Installation Rules") is used. Most of the fundamental electrotechnical nuances in these rules are mentioned and are mandatory. Including the requirements for electrical wiring, including its fasteners, which will be discussed below.

The PUE speaks of several types of fastening for cables and wires. Consider the outdoor wiring first. According to its execution, it can be either hidden or open. It is convenient to lay cables in an open way along the walls of buildings or strong, for example, reinforced concrete fences. In this case, you will need to fix the cable or wire on the wall, performed in a certain step.

Such a complicated string

In order to reduce the number of fixing holes in the wall, a string is used.

It is a thin cable or steel wire (tape) stretched along the wall. Wires and cables, both single and bundled, are much easier to attach to this string. But this is true in comparison with direct fastening to the wall of a cable or wire only with a large length of the fixed part.

At one time, an instruction was approved, which detailed all aspects of this type of fastener:

Those wishing to familiarize themselves with the full amount of information on this topic will find it in the instructions mentioned above. The article will reflect its main points.

When attaching cables to a string, it is important to do so with a metallic protective sheath. If a cable with such a sheath is laid, a gasket made of elastic material is needed at the attachment point. Its thickness is from 0.3 mm, and it is made 3-4 mm wider than the mounting bracket. In more detail, the location of the fastener is illustrated by the images below:

For cables without a metal sheath, no spacers are installed.

When the cable or wire is deflected away from the string, the radius is made in accordance with the values indicated in Table 1:
The fastening brackets are positioned along the string with an optimal pitch:

0.5 m (but not less) on horizontal sections;
1.0 m (but not less) in vertical areas.

The string is pulled by a winch close to the bearing surface. If this surface is brick wall plaster, plastic dowels are used.
When manually tensioned, the string is wrapped around the intermediate fastener. If pulling is done by a winch, the string is tied to this element.
The wire or cable is attached to the string with K-226 mounting tape or its equivalent.

If it is necessary to estimate the load on the string depending on the number and total mass of the group of attached conductors, it is recommended to use the data on the supporting cables (see below):

The junction box can also only be attached to a string if surface mounting is less efficient.
If the bearing surface contains protrusions, the strings are fastened along their vertices, as shown in the image below:

The carrier string is necessarily grounded (nullified).

Direct attachment to the bearing surface

A prerequisite for the horizontal arrangement of cables is a rigid attachment to the bearing surface at the end points, on both sides of the bend and near the sleeves.
In a vertical arrangement, massive cables are fastened so that their weight is distributed over the places of attachment to the bearing surface and does not cause both their own deformations (external and internal) and connection failures.
If there is a high probability of undesirable impact on the sheath of the cable or wire from the side of the bearing surface, it is necessary to use elastic gaskets at the points of contact.

Box base

A duct can be thought of as a type of routing that is effective at every point of contact between the cable and the supporting surface. But in combination with the role of fasteners. A group of cables are often laid in it. They are attached both in bundles and in several layers. As a result, the wires located above are pressed against the lower layers and individual cables.

In boxes, group fastening of cables is done with load distribution on the fastening elements to relieve pressure on the lower wires.

For this, as well as for the purpose of functional separation, bundles are made using corrugation and pipe clamps, as shown in the image below. The design of the box should allow fastening the clamps through perforations or in any other way. For example, through holes drilled in it.

Flexible clamps

The use of plastic cable ties for outdoor installations is not recommended in continental climates. Heat and frost make the screed material brittle over time. Especially if the tie is tightened, and the thermal expansion of the cable is significantly greater than that of it. To secure the plastic ties, two or three times later, the same ones of stainless steel are placed. They will keep the cable in case of damage to the rest of the plastic fasteners. Damaged clamps can be replaced with new ones.

Combined with dowels

The clamping clamp with a hole for the self-tapping screw is suitable as an independent element for fastening the cable to the bearing surface. In this case, a reliable fixation of the self-tapping screw in it is necessary. This can always be obtained by drilling a hole and installing a dowel. There are several constructive types of dowels, adapted to surfaces with different characteristics. Some of them are shown below:

A cable clamp with a hole paired with a dowel of the required design is the most versatile option for fastening a cable.
The clamp should be selected according to the loading weight if it is used on a ceiling or wall.

If the weight exceeds the rated values, a crack will appear in the hole area, and the clamp will have to be replaced with a more powerful one. Otherwise, it will most likely fall off the load-bearing surface, and the destruction of the clamps can develop further according to the domino principle.

For fastening the cable with cable ties on brick and concrete bearing surfaces, special dowels are provided. One design combines two in one. This is a dowel clamp:

It is best used for securing the cable to the wall. In this case, a minimum of time and financial costs will be required due to the uselessness of self-tapping screws. On the ceiling, this type of fastener can be used, but only for light cables.

Another design is a screed dowel. This constructive solution is somewhat less convenient in installation, since it will be necessary to thread the tie through it. This dowel is held more securely in the mounting hole. The rest of the properties of this fastener are similar to HD.

Nevertheless, a metal self-tapping screw in a special dowel provides the most durable connection to the bearing surface. Therefore, for heavy cable harnesses and the most reliable installations, an installation site is recommended. It is also preferred for fixing the cable to the ceiling.

Staples

It is obvious that the price of the tie-clamp increases commensurately. And part of this fastener is bit off and thrown away after the installation is completed. Therefore, this installation method is not optimal for single cables. The simplest fastener for a cable on a brick or concrete wall is a bracket. Its constructive varieties are adapted to the diameter of the held conductor:

For a stronger fixation of the staple in the mounting hole, it is filled with alabaster or glue. This type of fastener is the weakest in adhesion to the bearing surface and is used only for walls. But on the other hand, it is the fastest in installation and the cheapest. For cables in a corrugation or pipe, a type of dowel-staple is used:

But the dismantling of corrugations or pipes with brackets can only be done by destroying the latter. For the possibility of multiple installations of corrugations and pipes on the same route with the same fasteners, clips are used. Their dimensions correspond to the used corrugation or pipe. The result is an elastic detachable connection. The clips can be placed on the wall without restrictions. Their use is also permissible on the ceiling, but with revision. The jaws of the clip should be covered with glued thread or wire twist. When you uninstall the cable, it is cut and discarded.

But you can do without modifying the clips by using a more expensive model with a lock:

Today we can no longer imagine our life without a large number of electrical appliances. They have penetrated every corner and become an integral part of everyday activities. That is why high-quality laying and fastening of wires has become an urgent problem not only for production sites and office premises, but also for residential premises.

There are two types of fastening: open and hidden. Further, we will consider each of the options in detail and find the optimal solution for all possible situations.

Hidden type

Naturally, during construction or overhaul, the wiring is fastened in a hidden way in specially prepared channels - grooves. The absence of the need to observe aesthetics during electrical installation expands the possibilities of fastening. Next, a number of effective and practical ways will be discussed.

Dowel clamps and dowel ties

The advantage of this type of fastening is its low cost and obvious practicality. For fixing the wire using a clamp or tie, it is necessary to drill holes in the wall or ceiling at a distance of 30–35 centimeters from each other using a perforator. Make sure that the cable fits snugly against the wall, there are no kinks or kinks. If you have chosen a dowel-clamp, then it is enough just to insert it into the hole. The latter does not require additional efforts, but the reliability of the fastening will be low.

In the case of dowel ties, you will need to additionally drive in an expanding peg, which will significantly increase the quality of fastening

Fast drying solution

This method is the fastest and most reliable. But its application requires some skill, since prepared alabaster or plaster- quick-drying. Therefore, there is a risk of not having time to attach the entire wire to the wall. As in the above case, the cable is laid in a previously prepared ditch (groove) and glued with a solution every 40-50 centimeters. The obvious advantage of this method is that there is no need to drill the walls and buy additional materials. But fixing more than three wires will be quite difficult.

Homemade staples

If the budget for repairs is limited and every penny counts, you can make brackets for fastening yourself. For this thin steel strips will be required or a standard two-core cable, cut into pieces of 6-7 centimeters. Further, everything is simple: a hole is made in the center of each strip, into which a dowel is inserted. The latter is hammered into a previously prepared hole in the wall. If the surface of the attachment is wooden, you can completely do with simple nails.

Obvious the disadvantage of this method is long preparation time of the staples themselves. Also, if the staples are left uncovered, rust stains may subsequently appear on the wallpaper.

The second type of attachment we'll look at will be:

Open

Usually, this type of electrical wiring fastening is in demand in wooden houses, sheds and utility blocks. This eliminates the need for strobes, which significantly speeds up the process itself.

Cable channels

Cable ducts - this is the most modern and most practical way open fastening of wires. In this case, both a rather attractive appearance and a low price play a special role. The practical advantage is that a group of wires can be secured without problems. Channel installation is pretty simple. It is necessary to remove the cover, fix the channel on the wall using self-tapping screws, lay the cable and re-install the cover by simply snapping it into the special clips.

Clips

Like fastening method permissible only if the wires are located in plastic or corrugated pipes. It is important to choose clips according to the size of the pipe! Further, we act according to the standard plan:

fasten the clips to the wooden surface with self-tapping screws;
in a concrete or brick wall, you will need to drill holes in advance into which dowels are driven in and clips are already fixed on them.

Most often, this type of attachment is used when there is a need to conduct external electrical wiring.

Insulators

For this type of fastening, the wires must first be twisted into a tight bundle. Next, the porcelain barrels are cut into the wall and become the basis for securing the wiring. Advice: in order not to waste time on twisting and fixing it, you can purchase already prepared harnesses in specialized stores.

Nail and other staples

This fastening method is widely known even among non-professionals. This type of fastening is used for laying both telephone and television cables. There are two types of staples: flat and arched. All such staples in their kit have nails, so there should be no special problem with their fastening. Quite a practical option for installation above the skirting board. The disadvantage is the rather low strength of the nails themselves, so such staples should always be kept in reserve in order to replace the damaged one at any time.

For fastening thin wires, experts recommend using a drive. Outwardly, it is like a screw and is screwed into the wall in the same way, and a cable is screwed onto the directly protruding thread.

Mounting area

This method is used when the wire needs to be laid over tiles. The installation site does not require any drilling or nailing. It is attached with a self-adhesive side and holds quite firmly. It is not recommended to use this type of fastening in rooms with high humidity.

It is worth considering separately cable wiring issue through the wall. To do this, it is necessary to drill a hole larger in size than the sleeve installed in it. In this case, you need to adhere to several rules:

If the wall is made of fireproof material, then the wires should be enclosed in a box or a piece of pipe.
If the wall, for example, is wooden, then a steel pipe (or a box made of any non-combustible material) must be laid in the hole.

The above have been considered optimal and effective modern ways of attaching wires to the wall, which should not cause much difficulty even for an unprepared person. However, be careful and make sure that it is not connected to a live line before laying the cable!