How much does a split system weigh in a box. All about the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

Today we will look at the main functions and technical characteristics of an air conditioner for domestic use that the user needs to know. This material will be useful to those who are going to buy an air conditioner, even if you do not install it yourself.

Air conditioner power

Power is the most important parameter of the device. There are three directions that are indicated by the manufacturer. These are cooling, heating and power consumption.

Cooling capacity (Cooling capacity)

Cooling capacity is the most important characteristic, which is expressed in kW or BTU. If everything is clear with power in kW, then BTU is a British thermal unit. It was in them that the power of the air conditioner was measured earlier.
The area that it can cool in normal operating mode depends on the power of the device. Under the normal mode is meant the operation of the device, without constant high loads on the compressor, which arise as a result of incorrectly calculated power of the device and the size of the room.
Thus, if you put a split system designed to cool a room of 20 square meters in a room of 30 square meters, then due to lack of power, the device will always work at increased loads in order to ensure the set temperature, which leads to a rapid wear of spare parts, and as a result, the early failure of the device.

When independently calculating the power of an air conditioner for a room, it should be calculated that 1 kW (3412 BTU / h) of the cooling capacity of the air conditioner is able to provide 10 sq. m. area of the room with a standard height to the ceiling (2.5-3 m.). Thus6 for a room measuring 25 sq.m - the required power is 2.5 kW (approximately 9000 BTU).

Also, for self-calculation of the air conditioner capacity, you can use this table:

Heating power (Heating capacity)

Heating power is a similar characteristic of cooling capacity. It is measured and calculated in a completely similar way, but only for those devices that have such a function. Today, this is the majority of household split systems, but there are also those models that do not support the heating function.

Power consumption

This parameter is often confused with cooling capacity or heating capacity, since it is also measured in kW. But this is a little different.
The power consumption of the air conditioner is a characteristic that expresses the amount of electricity consumed by the device. It can also be different (minimum, maximum, nominal) - and as a rule, the cooling capacity is several times lower. Thus, with a cooling power of 2.5 kW, the air conditioner consumes approximately 0.8 kW - less than an iron, an electric kettle and many other household appliances.

energy efficiency

The energy efficiency of the air conditioner is a parameter that contains two previous parameters. In fact, this is the ratio between them. This indicator is a technical characteristic of all modern electrical appliances and displays energy efficiency (COP).

If we talk about energy efficiency within the air conditioner, then it is expressed in the ratio of the produced power (cooling or heating) to the consumed power of electricity. If we consider an example, then we take a device with a cooling capacity of 2.2 kW, and a power consumption of 0.6 kW. The energy efficiency coefficient will be 3.67.

In modern electrical appliances, it is customary to divide energy efficiency into groups, from A to G, the higher the class, the more economical the device is considered to be in terms of power consumption. In our example, this is 3.67 - which belongs to the class "A" (the most economical devices). Accordingly, class B devices are more energy-consuming than A, class C is more energy-consuming than B, etc.

Sound pressure value

It is also one of the most important parameters, which essentially displays the noise level of the device and is expressed in dB. The manufacturer usually lists the noise level of the outdoor unit, since the indoor unit often has multiple speeds, depending on which the noise level changes. In addition, the indoor unit is always quieter than the outdoor unit.
It should be noted that the noise level of the outdoor unit also depends on its type and size. Let's say the "seven" block, of the "on / off" type - has a noise level of approximately 45-55 dB. But another type of air conditioners, inverter, does not have a constant noise level - but a maximum one. Since this type of air conditioner is designed in such a way that its performance is constantly changing during operation, its noise level is also dynamic. Therefore, it is customary to indicate only the maximum value.

Permissible operating temperature

The permissible outdoor operating temperature is a recommendation that indicates at what temperature it is safe to use the device. Operation of the air conditioner at a temperature that is higher or lower than the permissible one is fraught with a quick failure of the device.

For most domestic split systems that are not equipped with a heating function, the lower threshold for outdoor temperature is 5°C. It is unlikely that you will want coolness when the temperature is outside the window, but this is an important parameter. The fact is that at this temperature, physical processes begin to change the structure of freon and compressor oil, which is why, immediately after starting, your compressor may jam. In addition, the drain hole of the drainage hose freezes over - and all the condensate from the air conditioner will flow back into the room.

Distance between the outdoor and indoor units of the air conditioner

This is the communication distance between the indoor and outdoor units. This characteristic is often overlooked, but in vain. The fact is that if you reduce the length of the route from the recommended 5 meters (in most cases, exactly 5 meters is the recommended distance) to 1-2 meters, then the parameters of the refrigeration cycle will change, which will lead to an early failure of the device. In such cases, the route is often twisted in a ring behind the outdoor unit. Inexperienced craftsmen cut the track to the required length.

In addition to the minimum length, there is also the maximum length of the communication route. For household appliances, this is usually 15-20 meters, everything above is already within the power of only industrial air conditioners. The longer the track, the lower the efficiency of the device. The load on the compressor block increases, heat losses increase.

Popular Features

Possibility of ventilation (inflow of fresh air)

In fact, only the channel air conditioner has the possibility of ventilation of the room, in view of its technical features. But most household air conditioners operate in this mode simply as a “Fan”. The fan of the indoor unit turns on, but the compressor in this mode simply does not turn on. It is used for smooth distribution of air around the perimeter of the room, for example in winter, when warm air accumulates near the radiators and near the ceiling.

Although some modern models are still equipped with such a function that actually takes fresh air from the street and lets it into the room, these are quite expensive and rare models that cost quite a lot and have complicated installation.

Air dehumidification

In dry mode, the air conditioner reduces the amount of moisture in the air. Recommended for regions with high humidity.
It should be noted that the air dehumidification mode accompanies its cooling. This is due to the principle of its work. Warm air comes into contact with a cold heat exchanger, as a result of which condensate is released from the air, which goes into the drain hose of the device. Thus, there is less moisture in the air.

Air cleaning

Air purification often comes as an additional function to the air conditioner, although in fact it is already in every device, but to a different extent. To clean the air, a filter is placed in front of the heat exchanger, in the air supply channel. Thus, all debris (fluff, hair, wool and other large particles) settles there. In air conditioners with an air purification function, an additional fine filter is installed, which purifies the air of such small particles as dust, pollen and even some harmful microorganisms.

Night mode

In night mode, the device, to reduce noise, switches to a reduced fan speed mode, and slowly raises the air temperature by several degrees. Thus, creating more comfortable conditions for sleep.

Other characteristics

This is where a number of characteristics that are important and may be of interest to ordinary users end. Of course, there are a number of other characteristics that will be useful for installation specialists, such as:

overall dimensions and weight of blocks;
tube diameters;
maximum height difference;
type of refrigerant;
section of the power and interconnect cable;
and etc.

But this will be enough for us.

Basic requirements for brackets for installing the outdoor unit of the air conditioner:

The bracket must be strong but not heavy and support the weight of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner. And also it must fit the diameter of the holes.
Depending on the weight of the equipment, the brackets must have an appropriate safety margin. The minimum allowable figure is twice the weight of the outdoor unit itself.
Meet the requirements of GOST for climate technology. The material must withstand any temperature conditions and have an anti-corrosion and anti-oxidation coating.

Outdoor unit mounted on rectangular brackets

Recently, an increasing number of manufacturers have resorted to the manufacture of stainless steel brackets, due to the susceptibility of metal to corrosion from water on their surface.

The most common types of brackets used in the installation of air conditioners

Air conditioning contracting companies use several types of brackets. Among them are the following:

Right angle fasteners made of rectangular metal corners welded together with a thickness of 2-2.5 mm

Rectangular brackets

Brackets of this type are characterized by ease of manufacture, which is why they are cheaper than their thicker and more durable counterparts. However, this type of fastening is not quite reliable and suitable for long-term operation, since it has a rather small margin of safety. When vibrating, it experiences a strong load, which can damage the protective seam. When the anti-corrosion coating begins to diverge, the brackets will become vulnerable to the harmful effects of water and other particles that can compromise the integrity of the metal structure.

U-shaped metal fasteners connected to each other. Like the previous sample, they have a right angle of 90 degrees. The thickness of the material is 2-2.5 mm and is fastened with special bolts.

This design is more expensive than conventional rectangular brackets, but it is more reliable. Vibration extends only to the connecting element, while the load on the remaining parts of the structure remains minimal. At the same time, galvanized bolts are not subject to corrosion and oxidation. The coating of the brackets reliably resists the harmful effects of moisture and other atmospheric particles.

U-shaped metal structure with an elongated body, fastened from below with an additional section of the channel. The thickness of the metal elements is 2 mm.

In appearance, this design seems to be the most reliable of all presented. Despite the small thickness of the metal elements, the structures successfully withstand blocks of almost any weight. They do not deform under constant vibration, which guarantees a long service life of the brackets. The coating reliably protects the structure from negative atmospheric influences, preventing deformation, corrosion and oxidative processes in the metal.

Rectangular design of two straight metal corners 2-2.5 mm thick

This type of brackets almost completely copies the first sample. The difference between them is that here both corners are fastened together by a connecting metal bar, which significantly strengthens the brackets, allowing them to withstand blocks of almost any weight. All elements are connected to each other with bolts. The bar facilitates the load on the fasteners, and the coating reliably prevents the occurrence of corrosion and oxidative processes due to the negative effects of moisture and precipitation. The connecting plate greatly simplifies the mounting of the brackets.

All of the above samples of almost any outdoor unit. The size of air conditioner brackets is traditionally about 40 centimeters long for the vertical mounting sections.

The choice of bracket for mounting the external unit of the air conditioner should be approached as responsibly as possible. First of all, make sure that the load capacity of the bracket is twice the weight of the outdoor unit. This is necessary because the ice that periodically covers the block significantly increases the weight of the equipment.

The holes on the fasteners must match the bolts and other fixtures for attaching the brackets. It is strongly not recommended to drill additional holes: this can damage the protective layer of the elements, as well as reduce their load capacity, which will accelerate corrosion and oxidation processes as a result of the negative effects of moisture and precipitation. But it is also fraught with a warp or collapse of the entire structure under the weight of the weight of the external unit of the air conditioner.

And also pay attention to the anti-corrosion coating. The traditionally used enamel, although it reliably protects the metal from the negative effects of moisture and precipitation, loses its properties after a year and a half, which can contribute to the deformation and corrosion of the metal structure. A polymer coating is more reliable: it penetrates deeper into the material and better protects the metal from corrosion.

Among all anti-corrosion agents, metal galvanizing is recognized as the best. Specialists guarantee that galvanized brackets will last at least ten years. The split system itself can last about the same.

Above, we have analyzed what types of brackets are and what are their main advantages. To purchase a high-quality bracket and not to miscalculate with a choice, a few practical tips will help:

When purchasing brackets yourself, do not forget to make sure that the product itself is certified. By law, the seller is required to provide relevant documents. If the product is not certified, it is better to refrain from purchasing it - there is a possibility of counterfeit or poor-quality processing. In this case, the reliability of fixation is significantly reduced, which can lead to the collapse of the structure itself and the external unit installed on it.
Fasteners must correspond in area to the length and width of the installed unit. The maximum allowable load should be twice the mass of the block itself, which will protect the brackets from collapse when ice forms on the block itself
Among all the same products, focus on value for money. If the unit is quite light and the vibration level is low, then regular rectangular brackets will work for you. For heavier blocks, a U-shaped structure reinforced from below is useful. Here you can be helped by a sales assistant who will tell you which type of bracket is more suitable for your air conditioner.
The simpler the product, the easier it is to install and the stronger it is. If you install the bracket yourself, then a rectangular bracket is suitable for you, whose sections are fastened together with a metal bar. Such brackets are best suited for those who place brackets alone.

Thus, almost any brackets are suitable for the outdoor unit. The higher the allowable load level, the more reliable the structure itself. With proper operation, the fasteners will serve you for at least ten years, which is comparable to the life of the split systems themselves.

Which brackets for mounting the outdoor unit of the air conditioner do you prefer?

Household and semi-industrial split systems consist of two blocks: internal and external, which is located outdoors. Such a separation is quite justified and even beneficial for users, since the noisiest components of the device - the compressor and the fan - are taken "overboard", and there is absolutely no need to think about where to remove warm air.

The internal structure of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

Regardless of which structural type the split system belongs to, its outdoor module always has the same working units:

The compressor is responsible for compressing freon under pressure before passing into the liquid phase;
The fan provides blowing of the heat exchanger and removal of warm air from the unit during cooling or its intake during heating;
The condenser is responsible for cooling freon and its condensation;
The freon system filter protects the system circuit from dust, dirt and other small debris;
A capillary tube or TRV (thermal expansion valve) is needed to regulate pressure and transfer freon into a mixture of gas and liquid.

If the air conditioner can work in heat pump mode, then the outdoor unit is equipped with a four-way valve, which is controlled by the indoor unit. The four-way valve is responsible for changing the blocks in places - the external one takes heat from the street, and the internal one brings it into the room.

Monoblock split systems

There are air conditioners without an outdoor unit, but not mobile or window units, namely monoblock splits, in which all components are placed in one module. They consist of:

compressor;
electric drive;
heat exchanger;
fan;
mechanical and carbon filters;
recuperator.

Such models of split systems have a double air duct through which warm exhaust air is emitted and fresh outdoor air is taken in. The condensate exits through the tube responsible for the removal of heat, along with the hot stream. Outside, the duct openings are closed with decorative ventilation grilles.

Among air conditioners without an outdoor unit, there are models that work not only for cold, but also for cold / heat. Manufacturers produce monoblock split systems with both linear (on / off) and inverter drives. There are even multi-split systems with two connected units that can function together or separately. They have a small height difference. Blocks are placed either above or below on the wall.

Most air conditioners that do not have an outdoor unit operate in standard modes: cooling, heating, ventilation, dehumidification. The average noise level is 28-37 dB with energy efficiency class A to A++. Many have convenient settings like:

additional heater;
on/off timer;
air distributor;
defrost functions;
economical nighttime power consumption mode.

The main part of monoblock split systems has an extended operating temperature range, which allows them to function in severe frosts.

The main advantages of such devices include:

lightweight wall mounting;
fresh air supply;
no need to lay a drain for a non-reversible device.

But they also have significant disadvantages, which are noted not only by installers, but also by the buyers themselves:

fixed installation, involving placement only on the outer wall of the room;
very sensitive heat exchanger;
fungus on the wall outside from constantly flowing condensate;
increased noise (when compared with conventional two-block systems);
uneven distribution of flows when installing the unit closer to the floor;
high price that does not meet the expectations of users.

Many are alarmed by the fact that the world's leading leaders in climate technology do not produce monoblock split designs. Most of them belong to Chinese companies. In Russia, the following brands can be found on store shelves:

UNICO STAR;
UNICO SKY;

In some cases, when the rules prohibit the installation of an outdoor unit of an air conditioner on the facade, a monosplit system is the only way to solve the problem of air conditioning an apartment or office.

Dimensions and capacity of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

The selection of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner and the place for its installation depends on the size of the unit. The concept of dimensions includes specific quantities closely related to each other, denoting the physical parameters of the module, that is, height (H), width (W), depth (D), and cold power, which can be both nominal and variable.

Some capacitors require very powerful airflow, which can only be provided by two fans, respectively, the dimensions of such a module will differ significantly from the dimensions of a unit that cools a small room in an apartment. When the power exceeds the established limits of the norm for the dimensions of the case, the question arises of selecting a module with large dimensions.

In the technical characteristics of the device, data such as H * W * D and cooling capacity are usually indicated. The former are measured in millimeters (mm), the latter in kilowatts (kW).

The size of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner is affected by its power, and it is affected by the area of the heat exchanger, compressor and fan.

Place for placing the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

As already mentioned, the size of the outdoor unit sometimes determines the most optimal place for its installation.

The standard installation involves mounting the device under the window just below the level of the window sill or to the side of the window, without entering the territory of the neighboring apartment. But there are also not quite standard options for the location of the external module. If the allowable length of the route and the height difference allow, then installation can be carried out on the roof or attic of the house. Many install the block on the facade of the balcony / loggia or inside them in the absence of full glazing. Those living in a private house or on the ground floor sometimes mount it under the loggia, closing it from the adverse effects of atmospheric phenomena and thereby not violating the appearance of the building.

Of particular interest is the installation of an outdoor unit in the basement of the house. It is possible to carry out such a project in the presence of increased routes and height differences. If the basement is heated at the same time, then the air conditioner can not only cool, but also bask in the cold.

To do this, there is no need to install a winter kit on the device or buy a system with an extended operating temperature range, since the outdoor unit of the air conditioner installed in the basement will not be exposed to extremely low temperatures. The main thing is to ensure normal air circulation so that the heat exchanger does not overheat.

In summer, such rooms are usually cool, so there is a plus here - with this arrangement, the external module will produce greater efficiency, since the air there is colder than outside.

What is the outdoor unit attached to?

During installation, the outdoor unit must be fixed. For standard fastening of the unit to the wall of the building, brackets consisting of two welded strips are used. They are usually made from a durable profile of different sections. They have two holes for attaching to the wall and two for installing the air conditioner itself. Such fasteners withstand loads exceeding the weight of the average block several times.

To install the device on the roof, floor, ground, use universal stands for the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, which are made of metal and coated with powder paint. They are attached to the surface through welded holes with frame-facade fasteners and have sliding bars that can be adjusted to any size of the device. Typically, the outdoor unit stand can support more than 250kg, which is equivalent to the weight of a very powerful industrial unit.

Rules for installing the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

Before proceeding with fixing, you should take into account the installation rules for the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, non-observance of which entails incorrect operation of the device:

The device should not break the silence at night - the maximum allowable noise is about 32 dB. It is necessary to organize a normal condensate drain so that it does not fall on the walls of the house, the porch visor and people passing by;
Be sure to take into account the strength of the walls. It must withstand a load of several tens of kilograms. It is impossible to fix the air conditioner to aerated concrete structures, the external cladding of the house and the insulation layer;
Brackets with a block provide the most reliable base and fastening;
In order to avoid overheating of the compressor, the minimum distance from the wall to the outdoor unit should not be less than 10 cm. There should not be any obstacles for normal airflow;
The air conditioner is placed taking into account the need for free air circulation. The radiator needs normal cooling;
Provide good access to service valves so that preventive inspection can be carried out;
It is impossible to allow multiple bending of the copper pipeline, since the creases prevent the normal pumping of freon by the compressor;
The maximum length of the pipeline between the modules of the split system should not exceed the length set by the manufacturer, otherwise the efficiency of work drops noticeably;
Do not allow direct sunlight to fall on the back of the device, so there should not be too much distance from the outer wall to the outdoor unit;
It is desirable to provide protection against moisture.

Compliance by installers with all the rules for installing the outdoor unit of the air conditioner guarantees long-term and uninterrupted operation of the refrigeration machine.

Installation steps for the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

If the installation is carried out at the stage of repair work, then the wall is first ditched and the route is laid. When installing a split system after repair, communications are placed in boxes.

The external module itself is fixed, observing the main stages of installation work:

Make markings for brackets. They take into account their location relative to each other, relative to the window sill and relative to the existing hole for the track.
A puncher drills holes in the wall.
Brackets are attached with dowels with "wood grouses" or anchor bolts. An external unit is installed on them and fixed with bolts and nuts.
Connect freon tubes. They must first be trimmed, chamfered and flared. Only then can you connect.
Connect the wires. Measure the desired length, strip and connect to the terminal block. The connection is carried out according to the electrical circuit diagram indicated on the unit itself or in the user manual.
When the internal module is already installed, a vacuum pump is connected to the external one, air is pumped out of the route and the indoor unit. Then gas is released by opening the taps on the outdoor unit, and all protective covers are screwed on.
Put on a protective cover on the device.

If the installation is carried out by unskilled people, it may be necessary to repair the outdoor or indoor unit, which is not always cheap.

Repair and preventive maintenance

In what other cases may it be necessary to call the master and carry out repair work to troubleshoot the outdoor unit of the air conditioner?

As a rule, breakdowns of an outdoor unit can be associated with the failure of the mechanical part of the device or the electrical and electronic system. The first group includes malfunctions of the refrigeration circuit elements, and the second - failures in the control board or problems in the electrical circuit.

Mechanical breakdowns

If there is a breakdown in the mechanical part, then this can be expressed as:

freezing of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner;
the appearance of uncharacteristic noises and vibrations;
reducing the efficiency of blowing the heat exchanger;
the appearance of oil smudges on the ports.

Most of these problems are related to the leakage of freon or its initial shortage. The presence of such is easily determined by the master using a pressure gauge.

There are other reasons why the outdoor unit of the air conditioner freezes over, not only in winter in heating mode, but also in summer almost immediately after installation.

There may be excess refrigerant, excess air, or excess moisture in the system. It is possible that the capillary tubes are clogged or the device simply needs preventive cleaning, which includes washing the panels of both units, cleaning or replacing filters, and removing excess dirt from the fan and heat exchanger. Often there is such a problem as the incorrect length of the copper pipeline, from which there is either a shortage or an excess of freon.

If none of these causes are identified, refueling or full recharging is carried out, and the outdoor unit of the air conditioner continues to freeze, then the cause should be looked for in a compressor malfunction.

Electrical and electronic failures

An equally serious problem can be the failure of the control board. As a rule, this is signaled by error codes and LED lamps on the body of the indoor module, which give the corresponding brake lights. If the board burned out, then the outdoor unit of the air conditioner may smoke, although smoke sometimes indicates a burnout of the compressor motor or blower fan.

At the slightest suspicion of electrical failures, you must immediately turn off the machine in the electrical panel, which is responsible for the air conditioner.

If the outdoor unit of the air conditioner smokes in heating mode in winter, then this may not indicate a fire, but the defrosting of the heat exchanger (condenser). In this case, the smoke is just steam.

Regardless of the complexity of the breakdown, you must immediately turn off the power to the device and call a service technician who will inspect the system and repair the outdoor unit, if necessary.

The principle of dividing the air conditioner into external and internal units in split systems has significantly increased the ability to control the microclimate. The serviceable area of the premises has increased, the capacity of the cooling and heating system has increased, etc.

The dimensions of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner directly depend on its capacity.

The higher the power, the larger the dimensions of the outdoor unit, but this should not be taken literally. Manufacturers have developed several standards for the dimensions of the outdoor unit housing, each of which is sufficient to accommodate air conditioner units with power from and to. Crossing the upper limit of power requires a case with large dimensions.

Structural elements of the outdoor unit, determining its dimensions

The main element of the air conditioner, which determines the dimensions of the outdoor unit, is the condenser of the cooling system, which becomes the evaporator when the unit switches to heating mode. The higher the power of the air conditioner, the larger the area of the evaporators and the condenser.

There is already a directly proportional relationship. The area of the condenser can reach such dimensions that two fans are required to blow it. The dimensions of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner are influenced by the dimensions of the compressor, control and management devices, etc., but although it is insignificant in geometry, it may be noticeable for the weight of the unit.

When size matters

The size of the outdoor unit is of great importance when choosing a place for its installation, when, for example, the dimensions do not allow it to be installed in the optimal position in terms of installation. The dimensions of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner are also reminiscent of its weight.

Typically, air conditioners with a capacity of up to 9 kW are installed in multi-storey buildings, at which the maximum weight of the external unit is just over 60 kilograms, which is quite a lot, and when air conditioners of higher power are installed, the weight of the unit reaches 120 or more kilograms. For the installation of such a block, a winch is already required.

A high capacity air conditioner requires more careful maintenance to prevent the compressor from overheating. Let's take an example. In an ordinary electric kettle with a power of 1 kW, a liter of water boils in 3-4 minutes. When an air conditioner with a power of 5-7 kW is operating, it is theoretically possible to boil a bucket of water in the same time. This explains the importance of caring for the external unit - cleaning the surface of the condenser from dust and contaminants, especially such as poplar fluff.

We remind you that overheating of the compressor means, at a minimum, additional losses of freon, and in the worst case, it will completely fail when it needs to be replaced and the entire split system needs to be repaired. Such work at its cost is ten times higher than the cost of maintaining the air conditioner.