How to install plastic suspended ceilings. Do-it-yourself plastic ceiling

Plastic panels are increasingly used today as a finishing material for walls and ceilings. Their popularity constantly tends to grow, which is due to good operational characteristics, aesthetic appearance and simple holding installation work. Another significant advantage of panels of this type can be called an affordable level of price indicators.

How to choose plastic panels

Plastic panels can be used without any special fears in rooms with high humidity — .

Such material is resistant to aggressive environments and temperature fluctuations - suitable for. Moreover, their use prevents the formation of mold and mildew, which is important for. When choosing PVC panels, length and width indicators should be taken into account. The surface of the material can be lacquered, glossy or matte.

Another significant advantage of PVC panels is the absence of the need for careful leveling of the surface, as well as the ability to hide individual communication elements under the frame.

Photo: finishing the bathroom with plastic panels

When choosing this variation of the finishing material, you should focus on the fact that plastic panels for walls and ceilings have certain differences. The former have higher weights. In addition, they have a more rigid structure.

Option to finish the bathroom with plastic panels

Plastic panels designed for finishing the ceiling are lighter. This is due to the need for installation work at height. The minimum weight indicators greatly facilitate this procedure.

Finishing the walls and ceiling in the kitchen with plastic panels

Along with this, plastic ceiling panels are more fragile. When performing installation work, you should be very careful, as you can easily damage the surface of the finishing material.

Wall decoration with decorative plastic panels

At standard thickness 5-10 mm wide panels can vary from 25 to 50 cm. The length varies from 2.7 to 3 m. When choosing a finishing material, you should pay attention to the quality of the color of the panel, the uniformity of the pattern and the correctness of the shapes. The quality of the stiffeners should also be taken into account. They shouldn't hang around outer side. The surface of the material should not contain characteristic chips and cracks.

The level of resistance of the material to deformation will depend on the quality of the density and flexibility of the PVC panel. If such a panel is tightly compressed, then no traces of mechanical damage should remain on it.

Necessary tools and materials

When performing work on the installation of plastic panels on the wall and ceiling, at the initial stage, you should choose necessary tools and materials. To resolve an issue related to installation, you may need:

• PVC panels;
• drill;
• dowel;
• cord and pencil;
• perforator;
• ladder.

This should also add moldings and corners. By using the latter, you can achieve the most even markup. Otherwise, when installing plastic panels on walls or ceilings, certain difficulties may arise.

Photo: plastic panels for bathroom tiles

Plastic panels are selected depending on the features of the layout of the room. AT small room it is advisable to use narrow panels. Under the condition of finishing a more spacious room, it is best to resort to the use of wider products.

Photo: ceiling decoration with built-in lamps with PVC panels

Self-tapping screws can be used instead of dowels. They are necessary if the frame will have a metal version. Dowels are relevant only if a wooden frame is used. It should also be noted here that the wooden base cannot be installed in rooms with high humidity. This is due to the fact that such material is susceptible to decay, as well as the negative effects of fungi and mold. For this reason, in the kitchen and bathroom, the use of a wooden frame is not a viable solution.

Construction of battens for walls and ceilings

The frame device is a primary issue that should be resolved when installing plastic panels on a wall or ceiling. It was noted above that a wooden or metal variation of the frame can be used as the basis. The optimal distance between separate elements such a base is equivalent to 50 cm. In this way, it is possible to compensate for the unevenness of the surface of the ceiling or walls. The recommended sequence of actions will look like this:

1. Carrying out markup.
2. Installation of profiles around the entire perimeter of the surface.
3. Installation of transverse profiles.
4. Installation of the basis for fastening PVC panels.
5. Panel installation.

During the markup, to begin with, it is necessary to determine lowest height ceiling. From this point, two lines must be drawn on the walls. To do this, you can resort to using a cord painted with chalk. The correctness of the markup is checked using the building level.

After marking, profiles should be installed around the entire perimeter of the surface. The fixation of these elements should be carried out without the formation of voids and gaps. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to achieve maximum reliability of the entire structure.

Profile frame for walls

After installing the transverse profiles, you should solve the problem, which consists in mounting the base for fastening the panels. For fastening plastic profiles self-tapping screws can be used.

Profile frame on the ceiling

When installing a metal variation of the frame, you should be as careful as possible. Total weight structure will be large enough, so it is necessary to provide high reliability its attachments. Mounting hangers to concrete floor can be carried out by using special dowels with a cap on the sleeve. Ordinary dowels will fail, as concrete is characterized by the presence of internal voids.

Attaching the first panel to the frame

Holes in the metal profile can be drilled simultaneously with the preparation of holes in the wall. Provided that the frame is mounted on ceramic tiles it is advisable to resort to the use of a perforator only if adhesive mixture dried up completely. In a different scenario, cracks may appear on the surface of the tile.

Features of mounting panels

Or is it best to start the wall with the definition optimal length material. It is recommended to provide a solution to this issue in advance. To cut plastic panels, you can resort to using a regular hacksaw.

There is nothing difficult in the installation procedure of such panels. Previously, they are placed in the profile, and then fastened with self-tapping screws. It is recommended to start the installation of plastic panels from the corner of the room. This applies to both the ceiling and the wall. It is also very important to monitor the quality and evenness of the installation of the first element. It should be strictly perpendicular to the wall or ceiling. Otherwise, the panel will not be able to snap into the groove and will need to be removed and reinstalled.

Special crate for plastic panels with fasteners

The edges of the plastic panels should go into the slats. The last detail is adjusted to the optimal distance to the wall. If necessary, you can cut the panel with a regular hacksaw.

Advice! Before performing work related to the installation of plastic panels on the ceiling or wall, it is recommended to first take care of the installation various elements communication systems. They are able to mask water pipes, electrical wiring or heating pipes well.

Despite the variety of types of suspended ceilings, such as plasterboard, stretch or armstrong, plastic panel ceilings have not lost their popularity to this day, due to their low cost and ease of installation.

Basically, plastic panels are used for mounting plastic ceilings in bathrooms, kitchens, balconies or loggias, gas stations, but also for wall panels and sheathing of communication systems, sewerage and water pipes leaving an inspection hatch to control taps and water meters. The use of panels for large ceilings is not very advisable, since such a ceiling does not look aesthetically pleasing due to the limited panel length of 3 meters, there are also 6 meters, but it is not always possible to bring them into the room. Because of this, it is necessary to add a docking H-profile, which does not completely match the color of the panels and stands out strongly against the general background.

Do-it-yourself installation of panels begins with the assembly of the frame to which they will be attached, the frame can be made of wood or metal profiles that are used in the installation of drywall. It is better to use metal profiles, as they are more even, unlike a board or a bar.

Frame assembly materials:

• profile UD;
• CD profile;
• suspensions;
• dowel with a diameter of 6 mm;
• self-tapping screws for metal with a press washer 4.2x13 mm "fleas".

Minimum set of tools for installation on a concrete ceiling:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• metal scissors;
• hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
• water level;
• drill bit 6 mm.

You may also need an upholstery cord and a 2.5-3 mm drill, a drywall crown, a miter box, silicone.

Step-by-step instructions for installing plastic panels

If there is no hidden wiring on the ceiling, it must be placed in corrugated pipes to prevent possible ignition.

Before installing the profiles, it is necessary to mark the ceiling to which the ceiling will be lowered, taking into account the height of the UD profile of 45 mm and the height of the starting profile of 8-10 mm, this is especially important for balconies, since the final height of the false ceiling overhang will block access to opening balcony windows.

I set the marks in the next step, you need to transfer them with the help of a ruler from bottom to top by 8-10 mm, depending on the height of the starting Elk profile.

After marking, the installation of UD profiles is carried out. The profile must be leaned against the wall so that it Bottom part was at the mark, then using a puncher equipped with a drill bit, we drill the profile along with the wall to the length of the dowel with a margin of 10 mm. After drilling the first hole, you can hammer in the dowel, which is convenient if you work alone.

The next step is the installation of suspensions, in order to determine their location, you need to put marks on the UD profile, since in the future a CD profile is attached to the suspensions, then the marks are applied based on its location. The CD profile is mounted perpendicular to the length of the plastic panels. Having determined the direction of the plastic panels, we make a mark on the UD profile perpendicularly every 50 cm.

Next, we insert the CD profiles cut to the required length into the UD profile and fasten the suspensions to the ceiling with dowels, then we connect the suspension with the CD profile with self-tapping screws, if the profile span is large, then we check the level or pull the cord so that the frame is on the same level. At the end, we connect UD and CD with self-tapping screws.

If will be used wooden frame, it is desirable to treat it with an antifungal agent.

When the frame is ready, we fix the starting Elku profile or the fillet ceiling plinth or F-profile.

Professionals advise first fixing 3 guide profiles, and glue the last one after joining all the panels. You can mount 4 “Elks” at once, but then, due to poor pressure, a small gap may form between the last and previous panel, plus this method is an quick installation without the use of liquid nails.

Depending on your choice, whether this is a starting profile or a fillet, the sequence of further work depends.

If the starting profile is selected, then the first 3 are fastened with self-tapping screws, and the last one is fastened with liquid nails, otherwise all 4 are fastened with self-tapping screws.

If this is a fillet, then all 4 or more can be fixed on liquid nails, and the latter is attached at the end, taking into account that its “tongue” is cut off, see the video for more details.

The same can be applied to the F-profile.

I would like to note that no matter which version of the guide you choose, it can be attached to any of you convenient way, self-tapping screws or liquid nails, staples or nails on wood.

Laying the first row

We cut the PVC panel 5 mm less than required to facilitate installation.

We put one edge of the panel into the PVC guide. To start the second edge, you need to slightly bend the panel down.

We fasten the panel to the profile with a “flea” self-tapping screw. On a wooden frame, ordinary self-tapping screw for drywall.

We insert the second panel and press down so that the lock snaps into place.

Installation of the last plastic panel on the ceiling

There are several ways to pin the last panel:

1. The easiest way is to cut the panel 5-7 mm less in width, first insert it into the guide, and then push it in the opposite direction until the lock clicks into place.

2. Glue the last panel to the profiles on liquid nails together with the L or F profile, or in the case of a fillet, the panel is glued first, and the fillet with the “tongue” cut off on it. For more information about the last option, see the video.

Fixtures for PVC

We make holes for recessed fixtures or ventilation using a drywall crown dressed on a screwdriver or drill.

How to make corners?

It is not necessary to cut corners on the L or F profile, they are not very noticeable. But for fillets you need a miter box and strong nerves if you are a beginner. After the installation is completed, we cover the gaps with silicone, watch the video.

In order not to resort to buying a miter box, you can purchase corners for PFC fillets, they are shown in the photo below.

A ceiling made of plastic ceiling panels is one of the options for suspended ceilings. Such ceilings are usually mounted in bathrooms, corridors and in the kitchen.

A room finished with a plastic ceiling does not look very comfortable. Installation of plastic ceiling panels in the bedroom is undesirable. No matter how the manufacturers claim that the material is absolutely harmless, finishing the ceilings with plastic of the rooms in which you stay for a long time is not the best. the best option. In addition, if the length of the room is more than 3 meters, you will have to join the panels, and this looks ugly.

How to choose the necessary materials

The choice of plastic panels for the ceiling

Light-colored panels are usually used for finishing ceilings.

On sale there are panels with colors that imitate rack ceiling. At the cost of plastic ceiling panels, it is much cheaper than aluminum slats for finishing the ceiling, and it is sometimes difficult to distinguish a plastic ceiling from an aluminum slatted one by appearance.

Such panels have standard sizes- width 240 mm, length 3000 mm.

In the photo - plastic panels imitating a rack ceiling.

The advantages of finishing the ceiling with plastic panels include the speed of installation. The ceiling does not need to be leveled plaster mixtures. Possibility to insert into false ceiling Spotlights allows you to create cozy lighting premises. The price of plastic ceiling panels is available for economy class renovation.

Material calculation

You will need:

• panels
• aluminum profile
• dowel
• self-tapping screws galvanized with a press washer
• ceiling plinth
• electrical cable

Standard panels are 24 cm wide and 2.7 m or 3 m long. Divide the room width by the panel width. When planning the finishing of ceilings in two rooms, consider how it is more profitable to mount the panels so that the trimmings can be used in the toilet or on the balcony.

Buy panels designed specifically for ceilings. Wall panels stronger and heavier in weight. Strength for ceiling panels is not required, but excess weight will create an excessive load on the ceiling frame.

To mount the panels, you will need an aluminum profile. It is allowed to mount plastic ceiling panels on a crate made of wooden beams, but in wet rooms it is better to use a profile. The beam deforms over time from moisture and the panels may warp.

A guide U-shaped profile with a cross section of 27-28 mm is mounted along the perimeter of the room. It is marked PN, or marked PNP - ceiling guide profile.

To figure out which profile serves which purpose, consider the photo. The number of guide profile is easy to calculate. The profile is produced with a length of 3 m. Divide the perimeter of the room by 3 and round up to a whole number.

To form the frame, you will need a ceiling profile - PP. Such a profile is installed perpendicular to the panels every 60 cm. Based on the width of the room, you can calculate how much you need ceiling profile.

To fix the ceiling profile, suspensions are needed.

Hangers are mounted at a distance from the wall - 30 cm, then - after 60 cm. Based on the length of the profile, calculate how many hangers are required for each profile.

Dowels are used to fasten the guide profile to the wall and hangers to the ceiling. The profile is attached to the dowels in the corners and then after 20-30 cm. At least two dowels are required for each suspension. Don't try to count exact amount dowel-nails. Take it with a margin - dowel nails will always come in handy for subsequent repairs, so it's not scary if two or three dozen remain superfluous.

To fasten the panels to the frame and connect the guide and ceiling profiles, you will need galvanized self-tapping screws - a press washer 4.2x16mm. The price of self-tapping screws is small - buy 150-200 pieces.

Ceiling plinth for plastic panels, two types are used - PVC plinth or ordinary polyurethane. The plinth PVC is installed before the installation of the panels. If the walls in the room are uneven, it is better to close the joint between the wall and the false ceiling with a polyurethane skirting board.

PVC plinth bridges the gap between the wall and the ceiling, and at the same time serves for mounting plastic panels.

The ceiling plinth is mounted around the perimeter of the room. The number of skirting boards is easy to calculate by dividing the perimeter of the room by the length of the skirting board and rounding the resulting value.

Purchase the required number of lamps and electrical cable to connect them.

When installing panels on wooden crate you will need timber, slats and brackets for attaching panels.

How to properly install plastic ceiling panels

Tools

• level
• pencil or marker
• roulette
• perforator
• metal scissors
• screwdriver
• hacksaw or jigsaw
• drill with crown
• construction or clerical knife

Operating procedure

Mark a horizontal line along the perimeter of the room using a hydrolevel (water level). You can use normal building level, but the hydraulic level gives less errors. Make sure there are no air bubbles in the connecting hose. The easiest way to make marks is with a laser level, but laser level- an expensive tool and not everyone has home master it is in stock.

Fasten the guide profile according to the marks. The profile is attached to the dowels at a distance of 30-50 cm. Cut the profile to length. The profile can be cut with a grinder, but it is cut well enough with metal scissors. Bulgarian, perhaps, it will turn out faster, but it is easier with scissors.

Make holes in the wall with a hammer drill for concrete. Fix the profile with dowels.

Fix hangers for the ceiling profile. Hangers are required for reliable fastening frame to the ceiling and to adjust the level at which the profile will be mounted.

Fasten the PVC plinth to the guide profile.

Install the ceiling profile to which you will attach the panels. The PP profile is attached to the suspensions and to the PN profile with self-tapping screws with a press washer. The ceiling profile is fixed perpendicular to the direction of the plastic panels.

When using a PVC skirting board, fix the skirting board with self-tapping screws to the guide profile along the perimeter of the room. At the corners, the plinth is cut at an angle of 45 °.

Bring out the electrical cable for mounting fixtures.

Cut the panels to length. The panel is cut with a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw.

Insert the edge of the panel into the groove of the plinth. Fasten the panel shelf with self-tapping screws to the ceiling profile. The next panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one and fixed with self-tapping screws in the same way as the first. In the photo - installation of panels without PVC plinth, a hole for the lamp is cut along the edge of the panel.

Holes for fixtures are cut out before mounting the panel using a drill with a crown or a knife.

When installing the last panel, cut it to the width.

Install and connect lights. Lamps are connected in parallel.

Use liquid nails to glue the polyurethane baseboard if you did not use a PVC baseboard.

When installing panels on a wooden crate, the principle of the work order is the same. The panel is attached to a bar or rail with brackets.

Answers to frequently asked questions

How to mark the flow level - correctly, or beautifully?

When installing plastic ceiling panels, it is important to install the false ceiling evenly over the entire plane. It happens that the tiles with which the walls are lined are incorrectly laid. It turns out that if the ceiling is mounted strictly according to the level, tile laying errors will become noticeable. It is permissible to mount the ceiling in parallel last seam tiles. It will not skew much, but it will not be visually noticeable that the tile is not laid exactly evenly.

How to fix the last panel?

Last panel not fastened with screws, it is inserted into the groove of the previous panel and into the groove of the PVC skirting board or guide profile. Due to the low weight, the panel is firmly held in its position.

How to install a polyurethane ceiling skirting board?

A polyurethane or foam ceiling plinth is glued to the glue with liquid nails. The corners are cut to the miter box. If a gap forms between the wall and the plinth, it is sealed with acrylic sealant.

Video instructions for installing a plastic ceiling.

If a few decades ago, the decoration of ceilings in most cases was limited to whitewashing or wallpapering, then today the base can be sheathed quite unusual materials, for example, plastic. How to install plastic panels on the ceiling, we will understand below.

Advantages and disadvantages of ceilings made of plastic panels

Finishing the surface of the ceiling with polyvinyl chloride has many advantages:

• Irregularity masking. Installation does not require perfect alignment of the base coat. Panels will hide all defects.
• Convenient installation of communications. Pipes, wires and ventilation ducts freely placed in the interceiling space.
• Various lighting options. Do-it-yourself plastic panel ceiling can be installed original lamps or backlight.
• Easy to install. It is much easier to equip a PVC structure than suspended or stretch ceilings.
• light weight. The lightness of the material allows you to mount it on a longitudinal frame, which significantly reduces the cost of profiles.
• Possibility of additional insulation. During the installation process, hydro-, noise- and heat-insulating material can be placed in the interceiling space.
• Reuse. If necessary, the panels can be dismantled and reinstalled.
• moisture resistance. The material is absolutely not afraid of water, and therefore it does not warp, does not become moldy, and does not deform when moisture enters. Because of this, it is he who is chosen for equipping the ceiling of plastic panels in the bathroom, kitchen, balcony and loggia.
• Ease of maintenance. The plastic is resistant to most detergents without abrasives, therefore it can be easily cleaned of almost any contaminants.
• Relative cheapness. PVC panels are relatively low cost and will cost significantly less than drywall or stretch counterparts.
• Durability. At correct operation plastic will last about 15 years.

As for the disadvantages of this method of finishing ceilings, here are:

• simple view. The ceiling of plastic panels looks pretty budget.
• Limited types of structures. Using PVC, you can only make single-level construction without bends.
• Reducing the height of the room. A suspended ceiling made of plastic will make the room lower by at least the width of the profile.
• Interpanel seams. Even with correct installation seamless plastic lining panel joints will still be visible.

After weighing the pros and cons of this method of finishing, you can make the final decision whether to install plastic ceilings in the room.

Varieties of plastic panels for the ceiling

Today, this material is so common in the construction industry that it is used for sheathing different surfaces.

According to the type of purpose, the panels are:

1. wall. They are thicker and heavier.
2. Ceiling. They differ in relatively low weight and lower strength characteristics.

By type of connection, the following varieties are distinguished:

1. Seamless. The joints of such panels are visible only at close range.
2. Embossed. The surface looks as if sheathed with clapboard.
3. With chamfer (rust). They look like seamless patterns, but they have a decorative hole at the ends.

Panels on the market are presented in three standard sizes:

1. Lining - 300*10/300*12.5 cm;
2. Seamless with a length of 260-300 cm and a width of 15-50 cm;
3. Squares (rectangles) - 30*30 - 100*100 cm;
4. Leafy with a width of 80-203 cm, a length of 150-405 cm.

According to the type of coating, PVC panels are divided into:

1. Glossy. Lacquering makes the surface mirror-like.
2. Matte. Without additional processing. A budget option.
3. colored. In cheaper models, the pattern is applied by transferring from thermal film, in expensive ones - by direct printing.

For mounting a ceiling made of plastic panels, ceiling, seamless, sheet models are most often used.

Among the variety of PVC panels provided on the market, it is very easy to get confused, so you need to know the rules for choosing high-quality material:

• The panel must be geometrically correct form, with a clearly printed pattern and a smooth surface.
• With outside no stiffeners should be visible. At the same time, keep in mind that the strength of the structure directly depends on their number.
• When choosing panels, take two parts and dock them. High-quality products should fit snugly to each other, easily dock and not form gaps at the joints.
• Try pressing or bending the material. Even though light and thin, ceiling panels should not be too fragile.
• Smell the material. A quality product does not emit a strong odor.

You should not save on materials, because the panels High Quality last much longer and will pay for itself over time. Be sure to check the certification of products and make purchases from reliable suppliers so as not to become the owner of a low-quality product.

To do right choice among the widest range of textures and colors, consider the following nuances:

1. You can visually increase the height of the room by equipping a light ceiling. dark coating, on the contrary, will reduce the height.
2. The glossy surface visually deepens the ceiling, making it more remote and the room voluminous.
3. Do not overload the interior with more than three colors in the decoration of the ceiling.
4. Imitation of wood or stone on plastic looks primitive (especially if seams are visible), so it is better to refuse texture patterns.

At the same stage, think about the type of fixtures used and how to mask the extreme ends of the panels.

Do-it-yourself ceiling installation from plastic panels

The structure consists of a frame fixed on base surface and sheathed PVC. To do the work yourself, you need to prepare the ceiling, make markings, draw up a drawing, calculate the amount required material, build a frame and fix the panels on it. At each stage, many technological nuances should be taken into account, and it is important to approach each process responsibly in order to ultimately be satisfied with the work.

Preparatory work before installing the ceiling of plastic panels

Significant preparation or alignment of the base ceiling with such a finish is not required, but some work is still worth doing:

• We free the room from large-sized furniture, remove curtains, cornices, paintings and a chandelier, isolating the ends of the wires.
• Lay on the floor polyethylene film and close the doorway with it.
• We remove the ceiling trim and dismantle, if necessary, the old wiring.
• We putty large cracks and holes.
• Prime the surface with an antifungal compound.

If planned hanging method installation (using metal hangers), then the preparation of the base surface can be considered complete. If it is supposed to be installed in a hemmed way (fixing the profiles directly to the ceiling), then it is additionally necessary to trim the surface with gypsum putty.

Calculation of material for the ceiling of plastic panels

In the course of work, we will need panels and components directly. Materials must be purchased with a margin so that in case of unforeseen circumstances the installation process is not delayed. To correctly determine the exact number of fasteners, components and panels, we first measure the length of all four walls. Note that opposite walls also need to be measured separately as they may not be level.

We carry out calculations taking into account the following rules:

• We divide the ceiling area by the area of ​​​​one panel, add 15-20% to the result obtained and round up. This number will be indicative the right amount PVC panels.
• When calculating the number of ceiling profiles and suspensions, keep in mind that it is mounted in increments of 0.5-0.6 meters.
• The length of the desired starting profile is equal to the perimeter of the room plus 10 cm.
• The number of dowels will be needed with the calculation of 1 pc / 0.5 meters of the profile, and self-tapping screws - 1 pc / 0.5 meters of the panel length.
• To calculate the amount of plastic profile, divide the perimeter of the room by three ( standard length products) and rounded up.

In addition, you may need an H-profile to connect the ends of the panels, plastic corners for external and internal docking.

In residential premises, the crate can also be made from wood, but for mounting the ceiling of plastic panels in the kitchen, balcony or bathroom, it is better to use metal, galvanized ones.

Marking the ceiling before installing plastic panels

For the convenience of work, prepare in advance a tape measure, a paint cord and a hydraulic level.

We markup in the following order:

1. We measure the height of all corners and the center of the room.
2. In the lowest corner from the base ceiling, we measure the height of the interceiling space.
3. With the help of the level, we make marks in the same plane in all corners, we screw temporary self-tapping screws into them.
4. Between the two temporary fasteners we stretch the paint cord and beat off the line of the plastic coating. Repeat the procedure for all walls.
5. On opposite walls near the ceiling we make marks in increments of 0.5 meters.
6. We stretch the paint cord between the marked points and beat off the fastening lines of the supporting profiles.
7. We mark the places of attachment of suspensions.

If a hemming technique for fastening panels is assumed, then marking on the wall is not done, and the base ceiling is pre-aligned.

How to make a frame for the ceiling of plastic panels

When mounting the frame for suspended ceiling mounting, we use metal suspensions. Before starting work, make sure that there are no concealed wiring at the holes to be drilled. To do this, you need to invite an electrician or use special detectors. Failure to do so may damage the power supply and even cause injury.

We carry out the work according to the following instructions:

• We attach a guide profile according to the marking level on the wall. It must be fixed on all walls, except for the one where the last part will be installed. This is necessary for ease of docking and fitting.
• At the marked places, we attach suspensions to the dowels and bend their ends.
• We insert the ceiling profile into the guide and fix it on the hangers with self-tapping screws.
• We align each element along a stretched nylon thread.

Frame for false ceiling attached without hangers to a pre-leveled base surface as follows:

1. We attach the supporting profile along the marked lines on the ceiling. In the process, it is necessary to monitor the tightest fit of the parts to the wall. However, if the coating was previously leveled, then cracks should not form.
2. We attach the L-shaped profile to the walls along the perimeter of the room at the level of the ceiling profiles fixed on the ceiling.
3. We attach the corners at the joints.

At this stage, it is necessary to lay all communications and draw conclusions for fixtures. The wiring must be laid in a heat-resistant corrugated sleeve.

Please note that with hemming fastening, the interceiling space is not enough for mounting spotlights.

How to sheathe the ceiling with plastic panels

Plastic panels must be fixed across the location of the profiles, the installation is performed as follows:

• If necessary, cut off the part of the desired length by 0.5 cm less than the width of the room. To do this, you can use a jigsaw, a hacksaw with small teeth, a sharp knife.
• Sanding the edges sandpaper and remove the film from the panel.
• We insert one side into the starting profile, bend it slightly and insert the second edge.
• We move the element close to the wall. As a result, the first panel will be fixed in three profiles.
• We attach the remaining side with self-tapping screws with a wide hat to the crate in the groove.
• We insert the second part in the same way into the opposite guides and move it tightly to the previous panel.
• We sheathe the entire ceiling using this technique. The edge element will need to be cut to the appropriate width before installation.
• Install decorative skirting boards on the starting profile around the perimeter of the room. In the place where the last panel is attached, it can be glued on liquid nails.
• We cut out holes for mounting lamps with a drill with a crown.

Such a ceiling finish can be done at any stage of the repair, both before and after finishing the walls and floor, since this work is not “dirty”.

In order for the design to turn out to be aesthetically attractive, strong and durable, we recommend that you take into account the following recommendations in the process:

1. Plastic panels are fixed to the longitudinal frame, but if you plan to hang a chandelier, then at the place of its installation you will need to reinforce the crate with jumpers and fix it in advance in the base ceiling anchor hook. Jumpers must be cut from the ceiling profile and attached with crab connectors.
2. For a beautiful joining of skirting boards at the corners, they must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. For convenience, you can use the miter box.
3. If small gaps remain after the installation of the last panel, they can be blown out with an acrylic-based sealant.
4. On uneven walls it is better to fix the foam plinth, because plastic products gaps will form.
5. Most quality products from polyvinyl chloride produced by Italian manufacturers. The warranty period for such panels has almost doubled, and the cost is 20-25% higher.
6. Plastic is not combustible, but under the influence high temperatures(80-90 degrees) can melt, therefore it is better not to install high-power lighting. The best option- LED lightening.
7. It is absolutely impossible to glue panels with liquid nails to the ceiling. Firstly, this is not a sufficiently reliable fixation, and secondly, there must be a ventilation gap between the base surface and the plastic coating.

These simple tips help avoid errors during installation. Read the instructions carefully and make a plan of action before starting work, so as not to forget anything.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels - look at the video:

Plastic ceilings - optimal solution for bathrooms, kitchens and other spaces in which practicality and functionality of decoration come first. Our recommendations will help you figure out how to make a ceiling from plastic panels. Following the instructions, you will do all the work yourself, from preparing the base surface to installing decorative skirting boards.

If desired, even a person without experience can sheathe the ceiling in the bathroom with plastic. Especially if he has assistants detailed instructions how to make a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands. The main stages and nuances can be seen in the video.

There is nothing difficult in installing a false ceiling sheathed with plastic panels, which is why many homeowners think about doing all the work on their own. But even experienced builders sometimes they don’t know all the nuances of working with plastic, and it’s even more useful for craftsmen without experience step by step guide.

If desired, each owner can make a plastic ceiling in his bathroom

Why plastic panel ceiling

Polyvinyl chloride, also known as PVC, is a practical and fairly reliable finishing material that is great for rooms with high humidity. The ceiling made of plastic panels is easy to care for, it is not afraid of mold. A variety of colors and textures allows you to decorate the bathroom in the most suitable way. color scheme.

Of course, aesthetics stretch ceilings plastic is inferior, but it allows you to quickly and most importantly inexpensively update the room.

PVC panels for the ceiling can be of different colors

Design features of suspended ceilings

The design of the false ceiling is quite simple - it is a frame that is attached to the base ceiling and sheathed with a suitable finishing material. If we are talking about the bathroom, it is better to make the frame not from wooden beams, but from metal profiles for drywall.

When the reinforcing profiles are attached directly to the ceiling, the structure is called hemmed, but if they are lowered on suspensions, it is suspended. The ceiling frame consists of thin wall profiles (UD) screwed along the perimeter of the room and wide rails (CD) that are attached perpendicular to the plastic strips.

Suspended ceiling fixing

How to choose plastic panels

To really choose quality material be sure to pay attention to the stiffeners, the more of them, the stronger and more reliable the panel will be and the less risk that after a few years it will deform under its own weight and from moisture. Coloring should be uniform, without lubrication, smudges, and even more so without unpainted areas. back side Panels must be uniformly colored and even.

Types of plastic panels

Calculation of the required number of panels

PVC panels go on sale in widths of 10, 25 and 50 cm, lengths from 2.5 to 4 or 6 meters. To accurately calculate the amount of material, you need to pre-select the panels, determine their direction in the room and measure the length of all sides of the sheathed ceiling. For example, the dimensions of the room are 2.5 * 2.7 meters, panels (0.5 * 3 m) will be laid along greater wall. That is, their length of 3 meters will just be enough, there will be a small pruning.

Width: 2.5 m / 0.5 m = 5 pieces. Of course, it is unlikely that anyone will want to buy an extra three-meter panel for reinsurance, but at least you need to make sure that the store still has material from this batch (others may differ in color) and in case of damage to the panel, there will be where to buy the same.

Adjusting the size of the plastic panel for the ceiling

PVC profiles and cornices

There are several types of various components, in particular profiles and cornices for mounting PVC in stores, but not all of them may be needed, so you need to familiarize yourself with the main ones in advance and decide which ones are needed and in what quantity.

• Starting profile - fixed around the perimeter of the room and serves to fix the panels and hide their ends.
• An H-shaped profile is needed to join the two ends of the panel if one strip is not enough for the entire length of the room.
• PVC ceiling plinth - in fact, this is the same starting profile, but with a decorative border.
• Universal corner - with its help you can cover any joints. In the installation of the ceiling, it is practically not used, except in multi-level structures.

Types of fasteners for false ceiling

Purchase of material for the crate

For the crate, you will need profile guides (CD) and wall guides (UD), their standard length is 3 or 4 meters. The required length of the wall profiles is equal to the perimeter of the room; if possible, a solid profile is attached along one wall. Wide profile guides are attached in increments of 60 cm. You will also need straight or anchor hangers, quick-mount dowels and flea screws.

Preparatory work

The beauty of suspended ceilings is that the base base does not need to be primed, puttied, and generally specially prepared. Deleted only old finish, and the surface is recommended to be treated with an antifungal compound. But sometimes they don't even do that. old whitewash or the paint is just hiding under the new ceiling.
It is worth considering how high the ceiling will be lowered. The minimum indentation is equal to the thickness of the crate, but if spotlights are installed or ventilation is hidden under the ceiling, then they are repelled from them maximum height. It is not recommended to lower the ceiling by more than 40 cm.

Ceiling ready for installation suspended structure

Frame installation

Begin work with markings around the perimeter. A line is drawn on the walls strictly according to the level, and a new ceiling will begin on it. If the walls are tiled, you can draw a line just along the seam between the tiles.

When the markup is done, cut the guide wall profile and drill holes in it in increments of 50 cm. You can also drill directly on the wall if you have an assistant, but if you don’t have one, it will be difficult to make the first pair of fasteners. From the turns of the drill, the profile walks a little and can loosen the previous fastening, this happens especially often in old buildings, where a thick layer of plaster or a ceiling line coincided with the masonry seam.

Installation of the crate under the plastic ceiling

For the installation of guide profiles, it is more convenient to use dowels "quick installation". They are inserted into drilled hole and beaten with a hammer. Next, measure and cut a wide guide profile. If the bath is perfectly flat, you can cut all the strips at once, but if the walls are at an angle, as is often the case in Khrushchev, it is better to take individual measurements for each profile and cut them off separately.

The profiles are lowered to the required height using straight or anchor hangers in increments of about 60 cm.

Wiring

Scheme: arrangement of electrical wiring

After mounting the frame, wires are brought to the points where the lamps will be and fixed. It’s not worth saving on the “tails”, a long wire can always be cut off, but it is undesirable to build it up, especially in the bathroom. If a chandelier hangs on the ceiling, the structure is reinforced at the place of its installation, an additional suspension is installed, and the profile is pre-placed in such a step that the chandelier is attached to the metal base. If this is not possible, a transverse jumper is attached.

Advice! The performance of the electrical wiring should be checked in advance.

Installation of plastic panels

The starting profile, in which the panels will be fixed, is attached from below to wall profile self-tapping screws. It can also be glued directly to the tile with "liquid nails".
With a hacksaw, a jigsaw or a construction knife, cut off the panel of the required length, insert one end of it into the U-shaped plastic guide, slightly bend and lead the other end of the panel into the opposite U-shaped profile. The panel is aligned and brought into the longitudinal starting profile.

Advice! If spotlights will be mounted in the ceiling, it is more convenient to cut holes for them before installing the panel, manually or with a “crown” drill attachment. But in this case, the panel becomes more fragile and may crack if it is excessively deflected.

Fastening locks are located on both sides of the panel. After installing the first panel, the lock on one side of it will be hidden in the starting profile, and on the other, it is screwed to the guide profile with screws with a press washer. The next panel is mounted in the same way.

Scheme: installation of plastic panels

It is cut, the ends are inserted in turn into the profile guides, the canvas is leveled and pressed tightly against the lock of the previous panel until it clicks lightly. There should be no gaps along the entire length between the panels.

The last panel rarely enters its full width, so it is cut with a construction knife. To simplify the installation, it is made somewhat shorter than the distance from one wall to the other, so that it literally goes a few millimeters onto the profile on each side.

First, the panel is placed in one of the corners and from it it is brought into the longitudinal starting profile, when the panel has entered completely, it is leveled and pulled to the lock of the previous panel.

If it sits too tightly and you can’t pull it up with your palm, you can glue a piece of ordinary tape on each side and pull on the free edge of the tape.

Advice! An interesting solution there may be a diagonal fastening of plastic panels, but this method is used extremely rarely, since it is quite laborious. In addition, you can create multi-level suspended ceilings.

Installation of panels without U-shaped plastic profiles

Installation of plastic panels to the frame

When the walls in the bathroom are even and the frame is properly made, the panels can be screwed directly to the profiles. This method is simpler, especially considering the difficulties with installing the last panel, but no less reliable. The joint between the walls and the ceiling is covered with an ordinary baguette, which is fixed with “liquid nails”.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling in the bathroom: video

Plastic ceiling in the bathroom: photo