How to use tile grout? Grouting joints between tiles - the final touch! Grouting tiles: video instruction.

The final step in laying tiles is grouting. In this article we will talk about how to make a grout, what role it plays and what is needed for this job.

Why grout is needed

The joints between tiles are the space at the joints of different fragments. Their width can be different from 2 to 5 mm. The width of the seam is determined from the width of the tile, the larger it is, the wider the seam.

The resulting space is filled with a special grout. There are several reasons for this:

Through these seams the wall will breathe.
It improves the adhesion of tiles.
Protects the layer of tile adhesive from the negative effects of moisture.
Due to dampness, the likelihood of dampness and the appearance of mold is excluded.
Performs a decorative role. You can choose a grout of different colors, for example, to match the lining or as a contrast.

The quality of the composition affects the final result.

Choice of grout

When choosing, the following factors must be taken into account:

Color. The chosen color affects the final result, whether it will be beautiful or not. You can highlight individual elements or focus on a specific pattern, the grout can be contrasting. If you want to create a monolithic picture, the color of the grout should match the tile. There are no restrictions in this matter, it all depends on personal preference and vision of the final result.

Properties and composition. This is another important point to which attention is drawn. The composition may contain various components, for example, epoxy, Portland cement, alabaster, gypsum, and so on. The composition depends on the purpose of the grout.

If grouting tiles is carried out in a very damp room, then the grout should be water-repellent. If we are talking about floor cladding, then the mixture must be resistant to abrasion and have the appropriate components in its composition.

Appointment. Be sure to make an individual choice for floor and wall tiles. Wall mix is not suitable for the floor, as under heavy load it will quickly wear out and will need to be updated. A tenacious mixture is needed for the floor.

Cooking rules

Having chosen a suitable mixture for grouting, consider the basic rules for its preparation. An easy way to avoid mistakes is to follow the instructions on the package.

The manufacturer indicates the proportions in which the dry mixture should be mixed with water. If you bought a ready-made solution, then it does not need to be prepared, except that you just need to mix it.

If the proportions are not observed when mixing the dry mixture, then the mass may turn out to be too liquid. As a result, it will flow out of the joint. If it is too thick, then it is unlikely to be able to make high-quality grouting.

Important! Failure to comply with the proportions leads to a decrease in the quality of the strength of the grout.

In most cases, there are about 300 ml of water per 1 kg of dry mix. Liquid should be at room temperature. With these proportions, the mixture will have the consistency of sour cream. This mixture is easy to work with. You won't need to put in much effort.

Sequencing

The whole process of work consists of several successive stages:

Mixture preparation.
Distribution of grout in a tile joint.
Cleaning seams from excess.

For work, prepare the following set of items:

Protective glasses.
Grout.
Respirator (in case of cement mixture mixing).
Container for clean water.
Clean cloth and sponge.
Mixing container.
Rubber spatula.
Gloves.
Tassel.
Rectangular trowel.

If the grout is diluted, place a small amount on the surface of the tile with a rubber spatula. To evenly distribute the solution into the seams, a rectangular trowel or a regular rubber spatula is used.

The correct sequence of actions when grouting tiles - advice from the master

Hold the spatula at a 30° angle and spread the grout diagonally between the joints. Pass over the surface of the tile with a spatula three times.

The mixture should well fill the existing joints of the cladding. The higher the density, the better. If a decorative corner was installed at the corners, then grout is also placed in the existing slots.

note

The grout is distributed gradually over the entire area. First fill the seams on an area of 2 m2 and so gradually move forward.

Do not immediately make a big batch. The mixture may set, especially if you do not already have skills in this work. During this work, the places near the sockets, the attachments of the heated towel rail and other plumbing elements must be filled.

Grouting with a special bag

Many decide to simplify their task and use a special trowel bag. The principle of its operation resembles a pastry bag. A tip is attached to the end of the bag. The width of the tip must match the gap between the tiles.

After that, a trowel mass is prepared, which is poured into the bag. Further, through the hole, the mixture is squeezed out directly into the joint between the tiles.

Before this, direct the tip directly to the joint. As you squeeze out the grout, move the bag until the seam is completely filled.

First, horizontal seams are filled, and then vertically. It is necessary to squeeze out the solution in larger portions than it may seem necessary. The composition will still be rammed.

When working on the wall, there should not be any special problems. The essence of working with tile joints on the floor is almost the same. We will consider several nuances.

Simplification of work is achieved by using a construction grater, which has a rubber pad. At arm's length, distribute the grout with sweeping movements.

To achieve the desired result, the mixture should be slightly thinner. This method is only possible when laying smooth tiles. If the surface is textured and has protrusions, then the mixture will fill all the pores. After that, you will have to spend a lot of time cleaning the tiles.

Important! As for the processing of floor tiles, be sure to choose those compounds that are resistant to possible stress.

How to deal with cracking

One of the most common problems is cracking of the seams between the tiles. Most often, this problem is inherent in cement-based compositions.

There can be many reasons for this, for example:

Sudden temperature changes.
The impact of hot water.
Floating wooden floor.
Incorrect kneading when grouting.

If a crack is found, it should be repaired immediately. Water can adversely affect the tile adhesive and substrate. This may lead to the formation of mold.

There are several ways to get rid of cracks. For example, completely embroider the seams and refill them with a new mixture. If the cracks are in the initial stage, then take a dry mixture and carefully rub it into the seams.

It is more effective to prevent this problem. The preparation of the mixture must be in accordance with the existing proportions. The solution should have an average viscosity. After kneading, let the mixture stand for up to 5 minutes, and then, re-mix and work with it.

note

During the drying process, it is unacceptable to ventilate the room or turn on the heating for quick drying. The grout should dry in the most natural temperature environment.

Conclusion
So, here we learned how to grout tile joints. We examined the technology of this process and how to implement everything correctly. We hope that this material was useful to you. In conclusion, we offer you to watch a master class on grouting floor clinker tiles:

Of course, it is an excellent and practical floor covering. It is especially good in rooms exposed to moisture, and places characterized by high traffic. That is why such floors are most popular in many offices and institutions. Our apartments are no exception. Tiles on the floor today can be found not only in bathrooms and kitchens and hallways, but sometimes even in living rooms. Fortunately, on the construction market you can find an extensive range of this material, sometimes capable of imitating almost any surface. True, this flooring will be beautiful only if it can be correctly and accurately laid. And an important role in this procedure is played by the final stage - grouting the tiles on the floor. It is on how correctly this is done that the visual effect produced by the coating will depend.

How do they rub the seams between the tiles on the floor, how to do it right and why do you need to do it at all? We will answer all these questions in our review.

What are seams and why overwrite them

During the master, special crosses are laid between the elements, which contribute to the formation of seams - the same distances between each tile. And they are needed so that, firstly, the facing material in the end looks neat and aesthetically pleasing. In addition, laying is not always carried out on a solid foundation; sometimes there is a floor under the tile, which can be subject to shrinkage processes. And if you do not leave these small distances, then the ceramic coating can simply crack under the influence of the movements of the same concrete slab occurring under it. However, if the joints are left unfilled, over time they will simply become clogged with dirt, which is unlikely to contribute to a favorable impression of the floor. And in those rooms where there is moisture, mold will begin to form in the seams. And so that such problems do not arise, the seam between the tiles is filled with special mixtures - grouts.

What are grouts

Before looking for information on how to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor correctly, you need to familiarize yourself with the types of this very grout. Professionals also call it a fugue. The fact is that not every material presented in stores is suitable for a particular room. All grout compositions are divided into types. There are quite a few of them, but it is enough for a non-professional to know only that there are fugues made on the basis of cement, made on the basis of epoxy resin and combined, which are called epoxy-cement.

The former belong to the category of the simplest and are suitable for use only in those rooms in which there is practically no humidity. If we take into account the fact that it is almost impossible not to wash the floors, then this option can not be considered at all. That is, grouting ceramic tiles on the floor with a cement fugue is undesirable.

Epoxy grouts are the highest quality and are suitable for any coating in any room, as they have high strength characteristics and are moisture resistant. However, they have one significant drawback. They are quite expensive. In addition, they are suitable for filling joints with a width of at least four millimeters, and it is quite difficult for a non-professional to work with them. Therefore, the home master is advised to pay attention to the intermediate option, which is ideal for flooring not only in the living quarters of apartments, but also in bathrooms and kitchens. Simply put, a cement-epoxy fugue is considered a universal option for the home, since it can be used to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor in almost any room.

How to choose "your" grout

First of all, you need to read what is written on the package. The manufacturer must indicate there the optimal width of the seams, in which it is rational to use one or another fugue. Accordingly, you need to know your own dimensions. There are also universal grouts. They can be used on flooring, the width of the joints of which is from two to twenty-two millimeters.

Then, having chosen the desired composition, pay attention to its color. The palette of shades in the store is presented in a large assortment, but you still need to know some basic rules. For example, the fact that contrasting grout can only be used if you are sure that your tile is laid perfectly. As a rule, the best option is to choose a tone that is as close as possible to the color of the tile. If the latter has a pattern of a different shade, then you can take a fugue of the same color as him.

Process steps

Before grouting the seams on the tiles on the floor, you must first wait a day after. This time can just be spent on buying a fugue and the necessary tools. The process of grouting itself consists of several stages. These are: preparation of the base, dilution of the grout (unless, of course, you purchased it ready-made, which, by the way, is quite expensive), applying the mortar to the seams, removing excess and final cleaning.

What will the master need to have for the grouting procedure

Special equipment and tools are not required, however, some set will still have to be prepared. Naturally, the trowel itself must already be purchased directly. By the way, it can be in the form of a powder, or it can be sold and ready for use. In principle, the second option is better in every way, since it is much easier to rub the seams on the tiles on the floor with such a composition, if only because it already has the desired consistency. It is quite difficult to achieve the latter for a not quite skillful master, who performs this procedure for the first time, with self-kneading the first time.

However, such a fugue also has its drawbacks. And the main one among them, in addition to the cost mentioned above, is that such a grout is not subject to long-term storage. That is, the remains of an expensive mixture, most likely, will have to be thrown away. So experts recommend that novice craftsmen still purchase dry grouts. And since such a thing, it is required to have on hand in this case also a container for breeding. You will also need a trowel, a special spatula (rubber), a foam sponge and clean rags, a bucket of water, gloves and an abrasive grater.

Training

The tiled floor must be carefully cleaned of tile adhesive, if any, as well as dirt and dust. It also does not hurt to walk first with a vacuum cleaner, and then with a brush along the seams. Then you need to take a sponge and moisten them with plenty of water. After that, you can start breeding grout.

How to breed fugu

First, experts recommend carefully reading the instructions. Despite the fact that the grout dilution procedure is, in principle, the same, each manufacturer may still have its own nuances. Therefore, do not be lazy and carefully study what is written on the label. Then take three-quarters of the water from the rate indicated on the package and pour the puffer into it. Mix everything thoroughly. And then slowly add water until the solution reaches the desired consistency. After 10 minutes you can start working. It is necessary to grout only with gloves, since the mixture is quite capable of corroding the skin of the hands with prolonged contact.

Advice from experts! Since the novice master does not yet have the necessary skills, and the grout dries out within just a few hours, it is better not to dilute the entire mixture at once. Divide the contents of the package into two parts. And work out one first, and then the other. As for the amount of water needed for kneading, it must also be divided by half.

We rub the seams on the floor

The most common is the method using a rubber spatula. Since it will not be necessary to work immediately on the entire territory, but to process tiles literally per square meter, experts recommend moistening a couple of “squares” with water again immediately before the process itself. In general, professionals process 2-3 square meters. m in twenty minutes. A novice master will not be able to achieve such a speed, but this is not so important. The main thing here is accuracy and careful observance of technology. Well, the fact that you finish the work an hour or two later does not really matter.

So, how to properly grout tiles? Apply a puffer to the rubber spatula and begin to fill the seams with diagonal movements. And do not just smear on top, but try to press the composition, as it were, so that it fills the seam completely. Remove excess with the same spatula. At the same time, make sure that the filled joint coincides in level with the level of the tile. That is, if there are any recesses or voids, be sure to immediately add a fugue there. Since you need to grout the tiles on the floor in stages, work this way for about half an hour. After that, proceed to cleaning the jointed area.

To do this, arm yourself with a bucket of water and a sponge. Constantly wetting it and squeezing it well, go through the foam rubber over the entire surface, making movements in a circle. Your goal is to remove excess from the tile itself and the seams. If stains remain on the tile - this is not a problem. They will be removed during the final cleaning process. Now the main thing is not to leave pieces of dried fugue on ceramics. It won't be easy to remove it later. After you have processed one area, proceed to the next. And so on until all the seams are worn.

Finishing

After a day, you can begin to correct. It may well be that in some places the seams are not uniform enough. That is, there are surpluses. Experts recommend in this case to take either a grater and go through all the seams with them, holding the tool at one angle. Simply put, polish them. After that, you need to remove it with a vacuum cleaner, and then again take up wet cleaning. That is, thoroughly rinse the seams and tiles with a foam rubber sponge, periodically changing the dirty water. After the floor dries, stains may remain on it. Experts recommend in this case not to wash it a hundred times, but simply carefully wipe it with a dry cloth. On this, the procedure can be considered completed.

How to grout tiles in the bathroom on the floor

Just like in any other room. Except that in this case, experts recommend adding another step - covering the joints with sealant. After all, the bathroom, like no other, is exposed to moisture. And quite often the seams on the floor, and even on the walls, turn black from mold. And to prevent this from happening, buy a special sealant. It represents a liquid. It should be applied three days after grouting (you need to let the fugue dry). Take a thin brush for drawing and gently coat the seams with it.

Conclusion

We tried to tell as much as possible in detail about how to overwrite the tiles on the floor. And at the same time they shared the secrets of experienced craftsmen and gave recommendations from specialists. We hope that now you will not have any difficulties with grouting tile joints.

Some forty years ago, no one knew such a word as grout. The last squeak in the form of Greek or Polish tiles still had to be managed to get, and it was not always possible to buy tiles of the same color. It was glued (it was glued, not laid) on the walls and floor in all conceivable and inconceivable ways. And what was not added to the adhesive mixture so that it would stay in the chosen place! They glued without seams, so no one needed grout.

But time and technology run forward, overtaking all ideas of beauty and practicality.

Peculiarities

Today, without grout, it is simply impossible to imagine a well-laid tile. The technology of laying facing tiles in our time implies that seams are made between the decorative elements. Seams are called the indent between the ends of two adjacent tiles not filled with tile adhesive. You need to know how to properly grout the seams on the tiles.

Intertile seams have a purely utilitarian purpose:

They create a thermal gap. Everyone knows from the course of physics that bodies expand when heated. With very narrow joints or with no joints at all, ceramic tiles can crack in any direction, squeezing one another out.
Tiles from different manufacturers are calibrated differently. Tile calibration is a tolerance for the deviation of the size of the finished product from the dimensions declared by the manufacturer. Sometimes the calibration can go up to 1 mm. When laying such unevenly sized tiles without seams or with narrow seams, it is impossible to get a more or less decent wall.

In order for the final result to have clear horizontals and verticals, a poorly calibrated tile must be shifted, centered, changing the size of the seam for each adjacent pair.

In order to avoid gaps between the laid elements of wall and floor decoration, into which water and dirt will enter, the seams are filled with a special solution called grout. Ceramic tiles, for the most part, have a slight rounding at the edges due to the peculiarities of its manufacturing technology.

Glaze covering ceramics is applied to only one surface. Therefore, the ends of the tile have the color of the clay from which it was made, and differ from the color of the pattern on the front side. When the seams are not worn, the brown edges are visible to the naked eye and spoil the whole picture.

A common mistake of amateurs is that they believe that imperfections in tiling and mechanical damage in the form of small chips can be hidden with grout. She, like paint, only emphasizes all the flaws. Therefore, it is better to replace a defective tile immediately or lay it in an inconspicuous place. e.g. for a bath or shower.

The composition and basis of the grout from different manufacturers are different. Some add special antifungal additives, others - hardening components, others try to give the grout more elasticity, and others - water-repellent properties.

The more such consumer properties a grout has, the more expensive it is.

Kinds

The basis for the most commonly used grouts is usually gypsum or cement, the resulting joint is opaque, uniform in composition and color. To give the lined tiled surface an aesthetic appearance, the grout is tinted (coloring pigments are added) in various colors. But in special cases with such a composition it is impossible to achieve the desired result.

To obtain a transparent or translucent seam, epoxy-based compounds are used, which can be tinted in various colors or various fillers can be added. Fillers can also be finely ground powder of silver or gold color and small beads, as well as small holographic sparkles, as for decorating nails.

The strength of such a grout will be no less than that of the tile itself, and dirt will not eat into the seams.

Another type of grout is based on the use of furan resin. Its feature is an exceptionally deep black color. In grouts based on gypsum or cement, the darkest color is anthracite, black with a gray tint. This is due to the characteristics of the base materials, which no one has yet been able to tint daughter.

Today, as a grout in places of increased load and humidity, silicone-based sealants painted in different colors are increasingly being used.

The classic grouting material was and remains tile adhesive for clinker. The seam is strong, its width does not matter, the color is only gray.

The grout is sold in any building supermarket both in a ready-to-use form and as a mixture for preparing a mortar for clinker tiles. This is an equal replacement.

How to breed?

Those who make repairs with their own hands should memorize the rule for preparing solutions from dry mixtures: the mixture is added to water, not water to the mixture. But grouts are an exception to this rule. Since the features of their composition are such that they take little water, water is added to the dry powder to obtain a solution of the desired consistency.

The water used to prepare any mortar should in no case be warm or hot, otherwise the mixture will immediately turn into a frozen, shapeless lump with which nothing can be done. First of all, you need to correctly calculate the proportions.

Manufacturers, as a rule, indicate on the packaging the recommended amount of water per 100 g or per 1 kg of dry mix. But this figure is not mandatory. The density of the solution depends on the result that you want to get in the end. For the standard grouting method, the solution should be like thick homemade sour cream or tomato paste. If during mixing part of the mixture remains dry, add water in very small portions until the solution reaches the desired density.

If, on the contrary, the mixture turned out to be very liquid, similar to kefir, you can gradually add dry grout, again in small portions. And mix well so that there are no lumps.

Some additives make grout mixtures very non-hygroscopic, and the particles of the mixture do not want to get wet. It is necessary to knead such compositions carefully and for quite a long time until a thick homogeneous mass is obtained.

The viability of the diluted grout is small, on the strength of half an hour or an hour. After this time, the solution begins to harden, clot, lose plasticity, and it is no longer possible to work with it. Therefore, it is most preferable to dilute the grout in small portions. If during the work the composition began to thicken, you can add a small amount of water to it and stir well.

If you cook a lot of grout, then it is very difficult to work it all out without losing quality. Preparing a large amount of the mixture at once is logical only if several people work on grouting at once, each of which performs a certain stage.

The most suitable container for diluting the grout is a rubber or flexible polymer cup with a volume of 300 to 500 ml. Flexibility is due to the fact that when the mixture hardens, it becomes very hard and it is almost impossible to scrape it off hard dishes. When twisting a soft cup, the frozen grout “snaps off” from the walls and is knocked out with a slight tap. If you try to knock on a hard container, then the cup is more likely to crack than the grout will fall behind the walls.

In the case of using a ready-made grout mixture, the manufacturer did everything for us. It can be used by taking it straight out of the bucket. Just remember to close the lid tightly so that the unused grout does not dry out. After 12-24 hours in the open air, the finished mixture is first covered with a film, and then turns into a solid, unsuitable for grouting substance.

Tools

Before you start grouting the seams, you need to prepare a bucket of clean cool water, latex or vinyl gloves and a few dense sponges (like for washing dishes) with fine pores, as well as two hygroscopic cloth napkins. For the convenience of work, a stepladder is needed. Directly to fill the joints with grout, you need a flexible polyurethane spatula 5-10 cm wide and a container with a ready-made solution.

If grouting skills are not developed, it is better to take a small tool. It's also a good idea to have a paint knife on hand for partial correction of the seam. To form an aesthetic seam, you need a round ebonite stick of small diameter - 3-5 mm.

In special cases, masking tape with good adhesion may be needed. You can choose a device such as a special machine for filling seams. This will greatly simplify your work and you will complete it faster.

How to apply?

Be sure to use gloves, so you will seal the seams without fear for the condition of your hands. The composition of the grout is quite aggressive. Without hand protection, you risk contact dermatitis.

In order for the seams to turn out neat, without extraneous inclusions and color deviations due to the tile adhesive not removed from the ends, they must be cleaned before starting work. Experienced craftsmen wash the seams with a richly wetted sponge directly in the process of laying tiles. They do this because it is much more difficult to renew dried tile adhesive. But if it so happened that the dried glue still remained in the seams, it can be cleaned with a small spatula or a paint knife. This operation must be carried out carefully, as mechanical action can damage the glaze of the ceramic product. You will get chips that are very difficult to repair.

After cleaning the seams, it is preferable to rinse them with a damp sponge and joint.

It is necessary to cover the seams as quickly as possible, apply the solution with confident movements and close up all the chips. You can also darken the seam or recolor it. You can change the color by adding special paints.

There are several ways to get nice and even seams using grout.

Based on gypsum or cement

In any case, it is possible to rub the seams only after the tile adhesive has lost its mobility and the tile has clearly fixed in place. For floors, this moment is determined by the time when it will be possible to walk on the tile without pushing through the tile with the weight of one's own body.

The composition is applied to a clean seam in a direction transverse to it with little effort, with continuous strokes along its entire length. The remains of the grout are removed from the tile with the same spatula, running it along the seam. The seam becomes even. Excess grout is sent back to the container with the finished composition. Visually, you can immediately assess the full filling of the seam with grout. If somewhere there is a gap (hole) or an insufficient amount of grout, it is advisable to correct these defects without waiting for the seam to harden. In the same way, fill the seams on the entire wall. Then they return to the place from which they started, and already clean the grout.

Cleaning the grout with this method of applying it, aims to make all the seams equally even and smooth. This operation is done with a round ebonite stick. If there is no such tool, then you can use a round pencil or an oval lighter. Passing a stick along the seam with a little pressure on the grout that has begun to harden, remove all excess from the seam and form its slightly concave smooth surface. The seams are slightly recessed, even along the entire length.

After the formation of the seam, the tile is wiped first with a slightly damp, and then with a dry cloth. Here it is very important to start the process of forming a beautiful seam before the moment when the grout begins to gain strength.

In another case, the composition is applied in the same way, only the seam is formed immediately with a damp sponge or finger, swiping with a sufficiently damp sponge with a little pressure. With this method, you will not have to return to an already worn area. In addition, the tile is washed directly during the grouting process. After drying, it will be enough to wipe the surface with a dry cloth.

The finished composition is placed in a trowel bag with a nozzle of the size required for the seam. Fill first either vertical or horizontal seams. When squeezing the mixture, you need to carefully monitor that it fills the seam completely, without gaps. Since any mixtures diluted with water have the property of shrinkage, that is, a decrease in volume upon drying and evaporation of moisture from them, it is necessary to apply grout in a slightly larger amount than it seems directly at the moment of mashing the seam.

sealant

Sealants are produced in tubes and cylinders for special pistols. For mashing seams, the second option is used. The sealed tip of the balloon is cut off with a sharp knife, after which the cone nozzle, which comes with the sealant, is screwed onto it. The cylinder is inserted into the gun, the tip of the cone nozzle is cut off so as to obtain the required seam width. The sealant is squeezed out exactly into the seam. Leveling it can be done with a wet finger or sponge. From the surface of the tile, excess sealant should be immediately washed off with a damp sponge and wiped dry with a cloth.

Resin based

The composition usually has a two-component structure, consisting of the resin itself and the hardener. To obtain a more homogeneous mass without air bubbles, the resin must be heated in a water bath to a temperature of about 50-60 degrees before mixing. Add hardener, tinting paste if required, and filler of choice according to the design. The mixture should be applied directly to the seam. You can use a piping bag with a nozzle or buy a special trowel bag. Align the seams most conveniently with a flexible plastic spatula.

If the grout gets on the surface of the tile, immediately wipe the soiled area dry, then rinse with a damp sponge and wipe dry again.

When grouting joints on tiles that do not have a smooth, but a relief surface, the mixture from the front surface of the tile should be immediately washed out with plenty of water. Otherwise, it will be extremely difficult to bring it into a decent form. The grout that has eaten into small depressions of the relief is very poorly cleaned during hardening. You can mess up the whole job.

If the tile "does not fit", then the seams are obtained in different widths in one row - vertical or horizontal. In this case, after the standard filling of the seams, you can use the following trick: on a dry and clean tile along the entire length of the seam that needs to be adjusted, masking tape is glued on both sides. The width of the seam is chosen based on the widest. The grout is diluted a little more liquid than for filling joints.

The mixture is carefully applied to the formed seam, immediately smoothing it and eliminating defects. The adhesive tape is removed without waiting for the mixture to solidify. Otherwise, the grout will begin to crumble along the edges of the seam and the edge of the seam will become jagged instead of straight. Masking tape can also be used when grouting tiles with small relief to protect the edge of the front surface from getting grout on it. In this case, you do not have to spend a lot of time washing. The same applies to finishing materials with a porous structure. Here you simply cannot do without adhesive tape.

After grouting all vertical and horizontal joints, do not forget to fill with the mixture all technological cutouts on the tile near the heated towel rail, outlets for hot and cold water, faucets for connecting the washing machine, and so on.

When filling joints on tiles with straight (unsmoothed) ends, the joints must be made without deepening. That is, the seam and the front surface of the tile must form a single surface. Otherwise, the brown side surface will be visible from under the grout and spoil the whole impression.

High-quality grouting will help to emphasize the flawless laying of tiles or hide small defects. Otherwise, no matter how well the tiles are laid out, careless grouting will ruin everything.

Before we begin to grout the seams, we carry out a number of important preliminary measures.

Choosing a grout

We prefer: cement or epoxy?

Cement grout, for example, Ceresit, Atlas is a fine grinding of cement mixed with a dye and mineral additives that prevent cracking after drying.

Advantages of cement grout:

ideal for joints up to 3 mm, as it is easily diluted with water to the required consistency;
low cost.

Flaws:

poor resistance to acids;
grain.

2. Epoxy tile grout such as Mapei, Litokol and Laticrete are based on a combination of epoxy resin, colorant and hardener.

Advantages regarding the cement mixture:

more resistant to chemicals, alkalis;
lack of granularity;
excellent strength.

Flaws:

high price;
due to the density of the solution, it is not suitable for grouting joints up to 2.5 mm.

Epoxy grout for tiles photo

Determine the consumption of grout for tiles

As a rule, it depends on the dimensions of the tile, the width and depth of the seam. Grout made by different manufacturers differs in density, depending on the fillers used, so approximate consumption information is indicated on the package.

We prepare the necessary tools

We will need:

spatula or strong knife for cleaning seams;
pliers;
respirator;
gloves;
a special rubber spatula with a rounding on one side. Optimum spatula width up to 150 mm;
spray;
foam sponge;
container and water for mixing the grout;
rags, preferably from natural fabrics.

We clean the seams

Delete crosses. We hook the edge of the dried cross with a knife, pick it up with pliers and remove it.
We carefully get rid of the tile adhesive in the seams over the entire area, to a depth of about 2 mm, without damaging the ends of the tiles.
We vacuum and wipe the floor so that the cleaned glue does not mix with the grout and does not spoil the appearance of the joint after all the work is completed.

We close the grout

When kneading, we adhere to the ratio of water and the mixture declared by the manufacturer in the instructions.
First pour water, then pour the mixture. The sequence of connecting the components should not be changed. If water is poured into the dry mixture, then when the solution is kneaded, unmixed lumps form at the bottom of the container, which are extremely difficult to get rid of.
Mix thoroughly to avoid stripes or spots that differ sharply from the main color of the joint when filling the seams.
The density of the grout directly depends on the type of tile, the width of the seam. The narrower the seam and the more porous the tile, the more liquid the solution needs to be diluted.
We breed in small portions, since the tile grout sets quite quickly.
It is impossible to add water to the finished mixture, otherwise the joint will crack after hardening.

The technology of the grouting process

We proceed to grouting tiles with our own hands no earlier than 48 hours after the completion of laying the tiles. During this time, the tile adhesive will shrink and avoid deformation of the joints.

Apply to the surface

We embroider wall tile seams, moving from top to bottom, and floor ones - from the corner of the room to the exit.
We put on gloves and treat the seams with water from a spray bottle for a better setting of the tiles with the mixture.
We take a rubber spatula, lower it into a container with grout at an angle of 30 ° C. In this way, the required amount of the mixture sticks to it.
We bring the spatula to the seam and draw it from left to right, or vice versa, filling the seam, from top to bottom, removing excess.
When working with tiles, the spatula is positioned at an angle of 15-30°C.
We fill the voids in the seams, the corners around the tiles to the maximum, pressing the grout into them.
Excess grout for tiles, settling on the spatula during operation, is thrown back into the container, and the remains of the mortar are removed from the tile by running the spatula along the seam, perpendicular to the surface of the tile.
Periodically stir the solution in the container, not allowing it to seize.

We embroider the seams

After applying the solution for 6-8 seams, we proceed to the jointing, until it has time to harden.

We put a rubber spatula with a rounded end to the seam and pressing, we draw along it, giving the grout a finished relief.
If cracks form during the design of the jointing, then either the grout is thick, or the seam has managed to seize.
We wet the sponge and draw along the seam.
We take a spatula and repeat the process of giving the seam the necessary relief.

If desired, you can use a finger instead of a spatula, only with gloves, since the solution dries the skin very much.

We clean the surface

Complete removal of grout residues from the surface of the tile is carried out after 1.5-2 hours, when the grout dries a little.

We wipe the tile with a damp cloth, collecting dust and the rest of the grout.
Wipe with a clean dry cloth.

It is not necessary to clean the surface earlier, because. the relief of the joint will be disturbed, and later, since the hardened joint is more difficult to remove.

Putting things in order

After the grout has completely cured, we finally rinse the tile with a cleaning agent.
Throw unused grout into a bucket. Do not flush the grout into the sewer, otherwise clogging will occur.
You can leave the solution in the tank for 2 days. During this time, the water will separate from the bulk, which we drain into the sewer, and throw the grout into a bag and into the trash can.

Following a step-by-step description of a simple technology, even an unprepared person can easily cope with the process of grouting tiles with their own hands.

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The grout is applied to the seams of the tiles to hide the small chips and notches remaining on the edges of the facing material. Silicone and epoxy compounds protect walls from the accumulation of moisture and fungus, cement varieties improve adhesion between individual fragments. Jointing begins with the selection of high-quality material, the preparation of a plastic solution and the preparation of seams for the procedure.

Grout varieties

The seams in the living room and bedroom are treated with cement mixtures. They consist of a binder obtained from gypsum and clinker, colored pigments and additives that are responsible for the rapid hardening of the paste and its plasticity. Cement-based grouts are inexpensive, have a variety of colors, but are not resistant to moisture. Compositions are rarely used to process seams in the bathroom. Instead of water, a latex plasticizer is added to the solution, which will be regularly in contact with various liquids and steam.

Seams in rooms with a high level of humidity are rubbed with epoxy. The composition of the powders includes hardeners and pigmented resins. Epoxy grouts are expensive, but they are resistant to dirt and detergents, do not absorb moisture. Solutions prepared from pigmented resins are thick and viscous, so only professionals who have repeatedly sealed joints between tiles can handle them.

Corner and deformed seams are treated with silicone sealants. They are not as durable as cement and epoxy mortars, but they have several advantages:

mask the defects of the facing material;
resistant to moisture;
have antifungal properties.

Silicone sealants come in a variety of colors, but over time they can turn yellow. The solutions are elastic, but with regular contact with food, they become loose and gradually begin to crumble.

Seams up to 5 mm wide are rubbed with cement or epoxy mixtures. Large joints between tiles are sealed with compounds that contain sand. The additive increases the strength of the grout, but makes the surface of the joints rough. Solutions with sand come in only two shades: gray and white.

The composition of quality mixtures should include:

impregnation;
varnishes;
cement;
latex.

The components provide the elasticity and strength of the paste. Bath and kitchen grouts should contain antifungal agents.

Solution preparation

Beginners can buy liquid mixtures in hardware stores that do not need to be diluted with water. It is enough to open the package and seal the joints. But ready-made formulations are expensive and stored less than dry powders for the preparation of solutions.

Usually, 250-300 ml of water is taken per 1 kg of dry mix. Some manufacturers have different proportions than the standard. Before preparing the solution, you need to carefully study the instructions, which indicate the ratio of the workpiece and the liquid.

The grout is mixed with water in a clean bucket or basin. If old cement or other solutions remain on the walls of the container, they will react with the grout, its elasticity and tightness will decrease.

Pour 50–60 ml of water into a bucket. Add a quarter of the grout, knead the mass with a spatula or hands. The paste is brought to homogeneity. Gradually pour in water, then pour out a new portion of the powder. The finished solution is infused for 10-15 minutes, and then applied to the prepared seams.

Liquid grout should not be stored for more than 12-24 hours. It becomes covered with a film, becomes unusable. It is better to mix as much powder and water as needed per 1.5 square meters. m.

Seam preparation

The gaps after removing the fixing crosses are cleaned of the remnants of tile adhesive and dirt. The dried mortar is scraped off the edges of the facing material with a spatula or clerical knife. Instead of tools with an iron blade, a wooden stick is used. It does not leave nicks and scratches, but slows down the process.

Tile adhesive is removed not only from the edges, but also directly from the seams. A spatula with a pointed blade or a screwdriver will do. The tool should penetrate to a depth of 5–6 mm. Gaps after processing with a spatula are cleaned with a stiff brush or a paint brush. She will remove the remnants of debris and glue.

The floors and walls are vacuumed after the hardened mortar is removed. This is one of the best ways to clean the seams from building chips, glue and dirt. After the gaps between the tiles, wipe with a damp cloth or soft sponge. When they dry, start applying the grout.

If the surface of the tile is porous, cover the edges with masking tape. Use a tape 3-5 mm wide, which is glued along the seams. It is difficult to wash porous ceramics from grout residues; you will have to paint over the spots with special compounds. It's easier and cheaper to buy a roll of tape.

Application and tamping

The seams on the wall are overwritten after 7 days, when the tile adhesive has completely hardened. The gaps between the tiles before work are moistened with water. The liquid is applied with a thin brush. Moisture ensures adhesion of the grout to the substrate.

The seams on the floor in the bathroom or kitchen are covered up after a day. The owners of the apartment cannot forget about the existence of these rooms for the whole 7 days. They regularly use the toilet, stove and sink, bring dirt and debris into the room. It gets into the seams and reduces their hygiene and tightness.

The gaps between the tiles before grouting are treated with antifungal compounds. The preparations are applied after cleaning the seams from building glue and dust. Leave for a day until dry. Apply the grout with a rubber spatula. Additionally you will need:

a bucket of warm clean water without detergents;
large sponge with hard surface;
a cable whose diameter is 0.5 mm smaller than the joint size.

A thick paste for grouting gaps between the plates is poured into a small tray or bowl, which is convenient to hold with one hand. The second compresses the spatula. A little mass is scooped up with a tool and applied to the seam. The grout is rammed with a rubber blade so that voids do not form between the dried mass and the wall. The smaller the portion of the paste, the easier it is to distribute it over the gap between the tiles.

Well-packed grout is elastic and dense. Beginners will realize that there are no more voids when the spatula cannot penetrate the joint filled with paste. The tool will meet resistance.

The remains of the grout are removed with a spatula, which is set perpendicular to the seam. The rubber blade moves slowly down or to the side. Excess paste is returned to the grout container. Divorces are not washed off immediately, but after 20-30 minutes.

Seams after processing are left to dry. The paste will take 20 minutes to become plastic. Until the grout has completely hardened, the formation and jointing of the gaps between the tiles is carried out.

Dip a clean sponge or rag into a bucket of warm water and wring it out thoroughly. If there is too much liquid left in the rag, it will soak into the grout. Moisture is the cause of bright spots on the seams. They stand out against the background of a paler grout and look ugly.

Sponge dipped in water is carried out along the gap between the tiles. A hard surface will remove the top layer of grout, because it should be 0.2–0.3 mm lower than the edge of the tile. With a rag, wipe off the remaining paste from the ceramic surface until it dries. After each processed seam, the sponge is dipped into a bucket and rinsed. The foam blank, on which the grout remains, washes out the dried paste and leads to deformation of the seam.

It is not necessary to grout the gaps between the tiles. The procedure is designed to form flat and smooth seams without depressions and pits. You will need a cable 15–20 cm long. Before work, the workpiece is washed or wiped with a damp cloth so that dirty stains or stains do not remain on the surface of the grout.

The cable is lightly pressed with a finger into the plastic paste and carried out to the corner of the tile. The grout that has come out of the seam is removed with a damp sponge. If the mass has become bumpy, you need to run the cable through it a second time. The pits and depressions left after the jointing are carefully sealed with fresh grout. Prepare a small portion of thick mastic and apply to problem areas with your fingers. Press in and leave to dry. If there is too much grout, there may be areas that differ in color from the rest.

Final processing

Mastic that has come out of the seams is swept away with a dry rag. Paste particles that have had time to dry are removed from the ceramic surface with a grater. The tool is shaped like a wide scraper with a rubber nozzle.

The grater moves diagonally. The wide blade is positioned perpendicular to the seam. Pieces of putty that have separated from the wall are removed from the tool by hand. It is impossible for lumps of mastic to fall into the gaps between the facing material. They can damage the dried grout layer, and you will have to re-treat the seams.

Important: It is very difficult to remove dried paste from embossed or glossy tiles. It is recommended to remove the remains of the grout immediately, before they have hardened, and wipe the edges of the tile with a rag or toothbrush.

The ceramic surface is cleaned of mastic residues with a damp sponge or rag. Wet grout removal is carried out 20-30 minutes after the paste has been removed with a grater. The glossy shine of the tiles will be returned by special solutions, which include:

lemon juice;
ammonia;
table or apple cider vinegar;
mustard powder;
salt;
toothpaste;
detergent.

One component or a cocktail of several ingredients is diluted with water. The sponge is moistened in the solution and carried out along the wall. If a stretching trace of the color of the grout remains on the surface of the tile, you need to wait another 10-15 minutes.

Sponge is carried out on a ceramic surface, removing the remnants of mastic. The foam blank is rinsed after each tile so that no stains remain. When the old solution becomes dirty, prepare a portion of the new one.

After wet cleaning, carefully inspect the seams and fill the grooves left after the sponge. Wait until the grout dries, then polish the ceramic surface with a dry, soft cloth to restore the tile to its former shine.

The mastic is covered with a layer of silicone sealant until it dries completely. Protective material must be used for processing seams in the bathroom and kitchen. Translucent paste prevents the appearance of fungus. The sealant is applied with a thin brush if only the seams need to be processed. The foam roller grips both grout and ceramic tiles.

Clean and dry facing material is polished. Spray the surface with a glass and mirror cleaner, and then wipe the tile with a soft cloth until it begins to shine.

Even a beginner can fill the gaps between the facing material with mastic. The instructions will tell you how to prepare the grout of the correct consistency. Hands will get used to the spatula in 5-10 minutes, and after half an hour the beginner will determine by eye how much paste to put in the seam. The main thing is not to be afraid of tools and follow the recommendations so that everything works out.