How to remove rivets from a belt. How to rivet rivets without a riveter at hand? The result is a reliable and aesthetic mount

Many industrial products use rivets as a way to securely and quickly fasten a knot that will not be disassembled in the future. Thin sheet metals are often bonded in this way. If you need to remove the rivet and not damage the surface of the product, then I will offer all three available ways to achieve the desired result.

Drilling rivets

The easiest and safest way, in terms of mechanical impact, is drilling with a drill.

We take a screwdriver or drill. Install the drill of the required diameter. And we drill through the rivet.

We pass right through.

This method will not damage the metals to be joined if the drill is selected correctly. Although it is quite specific and will not suit you if your rivets have a semicircular hat.

Cutting with a grinder

This is the fastest and at the same time the most traumatic way to remove rivets. Therefore, if you are uncertain about such a tool as angle grinder (grinder), I sincerely do not recommend using it.

We need:

  • Bulgarian.
  • Screwdriver.

LBM cut off the heads from all installed rivets.

And knock them out with a screwdriver.

That's the whole trick.

Using this method, it is easy to damage the surface of the product and break the disc itself, since the cutting is at an angle. And one wrong move can ruin everything. Be sure to use protective equipment.

Cut off the rivet head with a chisel or screwdriver

Now the way is what is called classic. It is used by most of both professionals and beginners. It does not require special equipment, electricity, training. The most affordable and at the same time the slowest way to cut rivets.
You will need:

  • Hammer.
  • Screwdriver or chisel. It all depends on the diameter of the rivet.

If the size is small, take a screwdriver, set it at an angle and cut off the cap with hammer blows.

If the rivet is large, it is better to use a chisel. We act with it in the same way as with a screwdriver.

We also knock out with a screwdriver.

This method can be used when there is little riveting: one, two or three. Or when there is none of the above equipment in the first two ways.
If there are a lot of riveted joints, it is of course better to use a more mechanized removal method.
Be careful when working with metals. Also share your suggestions in the comments, everyone will be interested.

Quite often, home craftsmen fasten various metal joints together, it is here that manual riveters become very relevant, because it is with the help of them that the connection is performed quickly, firmly, and without great physical effort.

Introduction

It should be noted that this mechanism is very easy to use, and the usual model is inexpensive. With the help of it, you can fasten any type of metal, and the principle of operation remains the same.

Of course, you can make a rivet with a hammer, but with a large amount of work, it will take much more time and effort. Manual riveters allow you to make the work process faster, and the efforts for all operations are minimal.

Today there are various types of manual riveters, each works according to its own principle, has its own pros and cons. Which type of riveter is better, each master determines for himself, but at the same time, several points must be taken into account, which we will consider below.

general description

Modern riveters have appeared relatively recently, before that they were bulky and inconvenient for home use. But the constant work of engineers on this problem yielded results: manual riveters became compact, and most importantly, they reliably connect the parts to each other with minimal physical effort. The device itself has become quite simple and easy to use.

It provides an approach to both sides for a more reliable connection. In this case, no outside help is required. The main thing that is needed when working with manual riveters is pre-drilled holes for rivets in the parts to be joined.

Almost everyone can cope with such work. At the same time, the price for manual riveters is low.

Varieties of hand tools

Today there are two types of manual rivets: pull-out and threaded, their price difference is not big.

To answer the questions: how to choose a manual, pull-out or threaded riveter, which of the tools is better, you need to understand their principles of work.

When using a rivet rivet to secure the rivet, a certain pulling force is generated.

In metal workpieces, which will subsequently be connected to each other, you need to drill a hole, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the rivet. After that, fix the rivet on the device, insert it into the hole and squeeze the tool handle.

During the operation of the rivet rivet, the rivet is expanded with a special ball, which, when the handle is pressed, enters the tube.

Thus, the outer side of the rivet is flattened, which makes it possible to firmly fix the parts to be joined together.

A hand-held threaded rivet is also suitable for household work. Its principle of operation is practically the same as that of the previous mechanism. The only difference is that in the threaded rivet, the ball is drawn in due to the fact that the cut thread rotates.

Such a connection is more optimal for thin-walled parts, where it is rather difficult to cut a thread, but it is precisely such a connection that is needed.

When a threaded manual rivet is used, there is the possibility of screwing a screw or bolt into the rivet.

In most cases, hand-held riveting rivets are purchased for home use, they are still more functional and versatile, while being slightly cheaper than threaded tools.


Different types of drive

The most common are hand-held riveters, but devices with different drives are also found. They are pneumatic, pneumohydraulic, and mechanical. Of course, each type has its own price. It also depends on the manufacturer - the more well-known brands, respectively, will have a higher price.

Pneumatic and pneumohydraulic tools are mainly used in production, since their device is more complex. At home, it is better to use hand-held riveters. When purchased, they come with removable heads, which allows the use of rivets of different diameters. Also, a head of the required size, like rivets for a manual riveter, can be purchased in a store without any problems.

Connecting parts with a tool

As mentioned above, the most popular in everyday life is the hand-held blind riveter. This device includes a sleeve and a rod. Now let's figure out how the manual pull-type riveter works.

First, the sleeve is inserted into a previously prepared hole, after which we take a riveter, which pulls in the rod. All that remains is to press the tool handle and the sleeve will flatten out, forming a strong and reliable fastener. All this will take very little time and effort.

This device has its advantages. Firstly, they can work even when only one side of the workpiece is free. Also, the manual blind rivet can be used even on the weight, without using other additional elements.

Of course, do not forget about the quality of the rivet itself, the reliability of the fastening also depends on this.


Manual riveter: how to use

Hand tools are easy to use and do not require any special skills. A correctly purchased mechanism will do this work efficiently and quickly. When buying a tool, the price should not play a big role, the main thing is to choose a model of good quality. This will allow you not to worry about the tightness of the connection and the failure of the instrument.


You just need to properly drill the holes so that the diameter exactly matches the diameter of the rivet itself. We have already described the work of the riveter in detail above. After work, all that remains is to process the reverse flattened side of the rivet, that is, remove the excess formed with pliers.

Manual riveter: reviews

The riveter Stanley MR99 has earned very good reviews from the craftsmen. The pins do not get stuck, fly out without assistance. Certainly not the cheapest, but it is important that it works well.

The NOVUS J 60 riveter has also been in demand on the market for a long time, this is confirmed by numerous customer reviews. Works well, no problems arise. But it is suitable for one-time work, since hands get tired with large volumes. Its swivel head is very relevant, it makes the tool even more convenient.

The Topex riveter has proven itself quite well among the consumer. It is inexpensive, suitable for one-time work. Conveniently, the spout can be rearranged 90 degrees. This makes it possible to rivet in the most inconvenient places.

The riveter GESIPA NTS also received positive feedback from buyers, the price is not cheap, but the German quality does not fail.

How does a riveter work?

A builder or a person involved in the handling of large metal structures and materials knows the answer to this.

And for all other people interested in the mechanism of this tool, the explanation is given below.

The riveter is a mechanical tool that allows you to quickly and accurately fasten sheets, the thickness of which is three millimeters, to each other.

With the same ease, it connects the profile and the corner to each other.

In order to carry out the riveting process, you must first do the preparatory work.

Namely: drill a hole at the intended connection point.

In this case, both ends of this workpiece should protrude from the planes or parts to be fastened. When the handle is pressed repeatedly, this part gradually flattens.

When its upper part flattens as much as possible, the mount on one side will already hold firmly, resting on the “thick” part.

After the end of the riveting process, the lower “tail” from the riveted part is bite off with a special tool. Always consider the thickness of the parts to be fastened. They need to choose the appropriate size of the mount. For example, for metal sheets with a thickness:

  • Up to half a millimeter must be riveted with rivets with a size of 2.4 mm.
  • Nine and a half centimeters - 3.2 mm.
  • Twelve and a half millimeters - 4 mm to 4.8 mm.

In this case, the hole for each different rivet must be drilled one millimeter more than the rivet diameter. Accordingly, for a part with a width of 2.4 mm, a hole will be made with a thickness of two and a half millimeters, 3.2 mm - 3.3 mm, for 4 mm - 4.1 mm, for 4.8 mm - 4.9 mm ...

The strength of any rivet of any size is determined not by its size, but by the quality of the metal, and the strength of the resistance that the structural elements have, which was made with the help of rivets. If this pressure is high, softening or deformation of the metal rivet gradually occurs.

The work of the tool is based on the effect of flattening due to targeted pressure on a certain part of the piece (workpiece).

Rivets and work with them


An explanation of how a manual riveter works cannot be complete without considering the types of riveting tools (consumable items - rivets).

There are two fundamental types of these parts: monolithic, that is, one-piece, and tubular.

The latter are usually called caps.

All-metal rivets are more like just a piece of thick wire and are only used for manual riveting.

Much later than the beginning of the use of the described pistons, more used now appeared - the second type (inside there is soft metal, which flattens quite easily when pressed).

Most importantly, these parts are further subdivided into two subtypes: nut and exhaust. The latter contain two parts: a tube and an interior, the so-called Poisson or rod.

On top of such a simple design there is an enlarged part - a cap, which prevents premature protrusion of the rivet or its breakage. Poisson is introduced from the opposite side, that is, from the opposite - where the hat is.

It turns out that rivets are inserted from both sides, subsequently flattened.


How does the threaded rivet rivet work?

The principle is the same, but the peculiarity of the rivet material, which, after screwing (hammering) into the structure, is bitten off with a special construction tool.

And besides, you can choose any length in this way.

When it comes to large volumes of rivets, you need to take the so-called professional mechanism that allows you to make more rivets with less effort.

A slightly more complex mechanism (besides the manual one) is called a pneumatic riveter. Its work takes place at the expense of compressed air.

Pneumatic devices require a compressor. There are professional mechanisms that contain a hydraulic press in their design.

Such a riveter is called pneumohydraulic. As it can be seen from the definition, it works thanks to two types of mechanisms that activate the main working element.

To select a tool for making a clear riveted joint of metal parts, including sheet metal and profiles, you need to take into account the thickness of the material to be fastened.

More details about the pneumohydraulic riveter are presented in the video:

Have you noticed a mistake? Highlight it and press Ctrl + Enter to let us know.

Manual riveter is a tool designed for fastening sheet materials. Most often, metal sheets up to 3 mm thick are fastened with rivets, however, you can attach a metal sheet to a profile or corner. Our riveter is a pull-out riveter, its principle of operation is slightly different than riveting with ordinary rivets and a hammer. In this article, we will look at the main types of hand riveting tools, how to choose rivets and how to use this device.

How to work with a blind rivet

First of all, you need to drill a hole through both sheets to be fastened, through and through. The hole diameter must match the diameter of the rivets. Then we "charge" the rivet and insert it through both sheets and begin to squeeze the handle (more than one squeeze is needed). The rivet begins to flatten when the ball is fully retracted into the rivet - the tail of the rivet bites off. As a result, we have 2 sheets of metal riveted on both sides. In the photo below you can see the instructions in the pictures.

Video - how to rivet correctly

We shot a video for you with a partner on how to use a riveter. I hope it helps you understand how and what to do.

What riveters are:

Regular low-cost model

Take, for example, the cheapest option from Stayer - the very first photo. Its cost is 300 rubles. It supports all rivet diameters (2.4mm, 3.2mm, 4mm and 4.8mm), so you can choose the most suitable rivet diameter for the materials to be fastened.

For example, thin rivets with a diameter of 2.4 mm are intended for fastening sheet material with a total thickness of up to 5 mm. Of course, there is also such a parameter of blind rivets as length. The longer the rivet, the thicker the material can be fastened.

I bring to your attention a table of the ratio of the size of the rivets and the thickness of the material.

Riveters with swivel head



It differs from the usual one in that the “head” of the riveter can be rotated 360 degrees. This helps a lot when working in hard-to-reach places, where ordinary people cannot crawl. True, it costs more, about 350 rubles. We also consider the model of the Styer firm.

Reinforced models (two-handed)

For people who constantly work as a riveter, power options are released.


They differ from the usual ones in that they squeeze it with two hands, respectively, power is significantly saved. Imagine you need to rivet 500 rivets. It will be difficult to perform such a volume of work with an ordinary riveter, but with a reinforced riveter, you can rivet everything much faster and without tension. How reinforced looks like - in the photo below.

Professional models with extended service life

In addition to household models, for household work, there are also professional ones on sale. They differ from household ones in better quality performance and increased service life. For example, a model from kraftool. The usual, non-rotating model, however, costs a lot more. In the photo below, the riveter Kraftul - the price is 400 rubles.


All riveters come with 4 interchangeable nozzles for different rivet diameters. They are changed using a special key, which is also included in the kit.


Rivets are usually sold in small packs of 50. Rivets differ in diameter and length, the thicker and longer the rivet, the more expensive the packaging is. For example:

  • 3.2 * 6 mm - price 26 rubles
  • 4 * 12 - cost 35 rubles
  • 4.8 * 16 - 50 rubles


When buying consumables, do not forget that rivets are needed for the riveter, pull-out. Ordinary ones are also sold in stores, which are riveted with a hammer.

Riveting of parts is a very popular method used today in construction, production and everyday life. It is used to install such fasteners in metal elements. It is a simple tool with a holder in the working head, into which the fastener is inserted. A hole is drilled in the blanks where the rivet is placed, and when you press the tool lever, it flattens out, fixing in the material. Everything is very simple! Someone will say why use this method if there are others to connect metal elements, for example, welding or fastening with self-tapping screws. However, they are not applicable in all cases. Here are some examples.

  • It is necessary to perform the connection of metal parts and at the same time exclude a change in their structure.
  • Do not heat metal or surfaces located next to the elements to be connected.
  • It is necessary to connect parts from different materials for which welding is inapplicable.
  • It is necessary to fasten hard-to-reach structural elements, and the impact of the tool is possible only from one side.
  • There is a chance that a fatigue crack will appear from part to part when they are connected.

Then a riveter is used, which helps to solve all these problems. What else is this tool good for? Let's figure it out.

Benefits of joining parts with rivets

This type of fastener has been used since time immemorial, for example, it can be found in military armor. By the way, during the construction of the Eiffel Tower and the cruiser Aurora, rivets were also used, only of a much larger size compared to the fasteners in the armor. Now such elements are used in construction, for example, when installing fences, installing frames for ventilated facades, fastening steel sheets to a profile; in production when joining metal parts of units, machines, boiler equipment; in everyday life when carrying out repair work. No wonder, because the riveter has so many advantages!

The tool is easy to operate

Setting rivets is a fairly simple method of joining parts compared to, for example, welding and is much safer. You just need to select a rivet of the appropriate diameter and install it in the drilled hole. Just a few elements need to be installed to fill your hand!

The result is a reliable and aesthetic mount

For example, you need to connect metal and wood blanks. The riveter will cope with this task, and the connection will be very reliable. A rivet installed in the drilled hole holds the parts tightly, does not deform them and prevents the propagation of fatigue cracks. The rod of the fastener bites off, and a neat hat remains on the front side of the part, which looks very aesthetically pleasing and does not spoil the appearance of the product.

Minimum tool and fastener costs

The cost of a riveter is much lower than, for example, a welding machine. An amateur model can be purchased for up to 1000 rubles, a professional one will cost more, but it will help to achieve higher productivity. When it comes to consumables, the price of rivets is low. For instance, a package of 50 pieces costs about 40 rubles ... For comparison, when installing a frame for a ventilated facade for 1 sq. m there are about 20 rivets - you will spend less than 20 rubles on this. And if you take a package of 1000 pieces, then the fasteners will cost even less. In conditions of construction and production, where you have to use rivets in large quantities, this option will be very profitable.


As you can see, riveted joints are the best method when you need to connect metal elements, spending a minimum of money and effort. If you decide that you need a riveter in your work, do not rush to buy the first vending model. There are several types of tools: some are used in private construction, others are designed for intensive loads in the production sector. Let's talk about each in more detail.

Varieties of riveters

The division of the instrument occurs not only on the basis of the “household / professional” principle, but primarily on the basis of how it is arranged. There are two main parameters by which the classification is carried out.

By type of food

  • Manual- the simplest devices that are affordable, besides, they can be used in any conditions: with high humidity and dustiness, at a height, when there is no power supply, etc. Two-handed riveters have two handles that are squeezed with two hands to transfer force to the working head - this is necessary to deform the rivet. Such a tool is designed on the principle of a lever, so the productivity of the work directly depends on the effort applied by the user. For a comfortable grip, there are rubber pads on the handles, as well as grooves for the fingers. The most versatile tools are with a swivel head: they are suitable for working in hard-to-reach places. Models rocker type have one handle and a scissor mechanism, through which force is transmitted to the working head - for this you need to press down on the handle with force. This design is very convenient when multiple fasteners are required. Most often, manual riveters are used in private construction, as well as in assembly teams and in small workshops, where the process of installing rivets is auxiliary.
  • Rechargeable- they look like a pistol externally and have a built-in battery that generates energy for the blow required when installing rivets. Therefore, the user makes less effort when working than a conventional riveter - just press the button. Even with prolonged work, the load on the hands is not felt. Depending on the capacity of the battery, its charge is enough to install from several hundred to several thousand fasteners. Like all hand tools, such models are used in facilities where there is no power supply, but, like any cordless tool, it is not designed to work in high humidity and dusty environments. This is a great option for workshop or assembly work.
  • - the most productive type of device, since the energy for installing the rivet comes from a source of compressed air - a compressor. But the design of such a tool is more complex: in addition to the pistol itself with a trigger and a working head, it provides a cylinder for compressed air and a pusher. For work, it is required to connect the tool to the compressor by means of a hose. It is important to remember that pneumatic rivets must be suitable for the operating parameters of the compressed air source. The working pressure and air consumption of the tool must not exceed the corresponding parameters of the compressor. As a rule, such models are used in the production area, when the installation of rivets during the assembly of products is the main working process and occurs almost continuously. In this case, a manual model will not work due to low work productivity, and a rechargeable one - due to a limited battery charge.

By type of fasteners used

  • For blind rivets- the most common type of tool. A pulling effect is exerted on the fasteners when the handles of the tool are brought together or when the trigger is pulled. As a result, a riveted head is formed at the base of the element, which holds it in the workpiece. The rod remaining from the rivet is thrown away.
  • For threaded rivets- models that are used primarily in industry. The fasteners are installed by flattening it in the prepared hole, while the fasteners are screwed onto the holder. The rivet itself is hollow inside and has an internal thread - thus, the hole in the metal is strengthened by it, and it is the basis for screwing in bolts and screws.

Choose the right tool based on your own needs. For example, you are planning to build a fence in your country house - you will attach the profiled sheet to the pipes. Take a manual blind rivet riveter with two handles. If you are looking for a tool for daily work, for example, in the manufacture of ventilated facades, choose either a manual swing-type model or a cordless model - it all depends on the operating conditions and the amount of work. To equip a production hall or workshop, the right decision would be to buy an air rivet, with which labor productivity will be much higher.

Pay attention to what determines the functionality of the tool and the productivity of work. Knowing the main characteristics will help you make a good purchase - you will select the model that best suits your needs and the specifics of the work.

Important selection parameters

The main characteristic is the thickness of the workpieces being fastened. Decide which metal sheets or profile you will join - their total thickness should not exceed the permissible value of the riveter. For example, in the model it is 8.5 mm. The next parameter is the size of the rivets used. For example, the tool has 4 interchangeable attachments for fasteners ranging from 2.4 - 4.8 mm, and 5 attachments for fasteners measuring 3.2 - 6.4 mm. These models are suitable for a wide variety of jobs. If you plan on doing one particular operation that requires a certain size of fasteners, you do not need such a functional model. Do not forget about the complete set of the instrument. Many manufacturers include not only replacement tips, but also maintenance keys. The pneumatic riveter has replaceable jaws and a container for waste materials, which ensures the safety of work - the rods fly into the container, and not towards the operator. The model has a case and a set of rivets to get started.

Don't have a riveter in your arsenal yet? Then it's time to buy it! Having tested it in practice, you will find that it is very easy to make reliable riveted joints. You can choose a suitable model on our website and immediately purchase the necessary fasteners for work. Place your order now - you will receive the goods as soon as possible with delivery or you can pick them up at the nearest pick-up point.

This very specific tool has a number of other names - "riveter", "rivet gun". Manual riveters are purchased mainly for domestic needs, as they are simpler and cheaper copies in comparison with their "brethren". However, their assortment is quite impressive, and the cost for individual products is significantly different - from one and a half hundred rubles to 2-3 thousand. What is the best riveter to buy?

The main rule when choosing any "device" - what is it for? After all, it is clear that manual models are inferior to professional ones both in versatility and in productivity. In other words, you need to clearly define the tasks that you will have to solve.

By the way, if you have to work often, and use rivets of different sizes, then it is advisable to have at least 2 different "parameters" products in the house. For example - one-handed model + two-handed. But if the business is put on stream, it is better not to spend money on cheap products. In any case, the riveter fully pays for itself, as well as.

What to focus on

Riveting material

If it's aluminum, it's easy to work with, so it doesn't matter which riveter you choose. It is more difficult with steel, therefore, the device should be selected more powerful.


Ease of use

First, the tool can be one- or two-handed. Naturally, the latter can create more pressure, so it allows you to work with fasteners from any material, of different sizes. Although in some cases (for example, limited space), you can only use one-handed.

Secondly, the design of the head. If it is swivel, then this creates additional convenience. Sometimes you have to rivet in difficult areas (in "inconvenient" places), and this feature of the tool is very helpful.

Third, are there replaceable attachments for different sizes of fasteners? This need not be commented on.

Gadgets

Some models have a special "container" where "waste" is dumped. For example, when you have to rivet the roof or build a fence made of profiled sheet, small pieces of metal are scattered to the sides. If they find themselves in the grass (sand, on the ground) around the place of work, then problems cannot be avoided, especially with children - they like to run barefoot in the summer.


Some "home craftsmen" prefer not to hesitate for a long time which tool to buy. If the volume of work is insignificant, they buy a couple of cheap models at once. In the event of a breakdown, there is always a spare at hand. And 150-200 rubles is not so much money to go around and ask the price. Although this point of view is not suitable for everyone, it also has a right to exist.

There is also another opinion. It is better to buy a professional model for 700 rubles, and this will be a guarantee that it will last long enough. Moreover, it is possible that the riveter will be needed more than once.

It is necessary to take into account such a factor as the accuracy of the owner. We do not pretend to be the authorship of the thought, but, nevertheless, let's say - you can break anything, no matter how much "it" is worth. Therefore, you should not too much trust the reviews of people about a particular model, especially strangers.

Considering the above, one should not be surprised at the opinion of professionals that the choice of a manual "riveter" is akin to a lottery - not guessing whether you are lucky or not.

Many have seen this device in tool stores - but not everyone knows how to use it. Those who have never held the blind riveter in their hands will simply not be able to appreciate the convenience and versatility of its use.

Riveted joints have been and remain a versatile and inexpensive way to join various parts. In shipbuilding and aircraft construction, this is generally the only way to attach the skin to the frame.

Classic riveting looks like this:

This is how the Titanic's body and handle were riveted to your frying pan.

IMPORTANT! The riveted connection is non-separable. To separate the parts, it is necessary to mechanically break (drill, cut) the rivet.

Modern technologies have also touched upon this ancient method. In everyday life, few people use a hammer and a crimping nozzle. There are semi-automatic tools that allow you to rivet parts to each other with almost one hand. Truth and rivets look a little different.

How does a manual riveter work?

To understand the process, you need to see the rivet at work. The diagram shows its main elements:

A rivet sleeve is placed in the prepared hole. The tool is put on the core and abuts against the rivet collar. The fixed rod is pulled out of the sleeve, riveting the top of the sleeve.

When the riveting is completed and the core head is firmly seated in the riveted bushing, the rod comes off. Riveted materials are connected only by a bushing.

IMPORTANT! The material describes a mechanical blind riveter. There are hydraulic, pneumatic and electrical attachments. However, they are not used in everyday life.

The principle of operation of the tool itself and its structure will also be considered in the diagram.

  • the head (1) is put on the core of the rivet installed in the hole;
  • the body (2) acts as a lower handle and a thrust bed;
  • the upper handle (3), resting on the frame with the axis (9), is a power lever;
  • when squeezing the handles, the working sleeve (4) compresses the collet jaws (5), tightly fixing the rivet rod;
  • continuing to move, the collet mechanism pulls the rod out of the rivet sleeve, forming a riveted ring;
  • when the handles are unclenched, the cone bushing (6), under the action of the spring (7), unclenches the cams, allowing the collet mechanism to take its original lower position;
  • cover (8) is a spring stop, can be removed to service the collet mechanism;
  • for the convenience of the operator, removable heads (10) are stored in the body for different diameters of rivets.

Blind rivets are a popular fastener widely used for joining sheet metal. It is very simple to install this fastener, but its disadvantage is that the rivet connection is non-separable and during installation you need to exercise maximum care when determining the place of installation of the hardware. But what if, after all, a mistake has been made and the blind rivet must be removed?

We use a drill

The rivet connecting the sheets of metal can be removed as easily as installed. In order to extract the hardware, you will need an electric drill and a metal drill. The diameter of the drill bit should be slightly larger than the diameter of the rivet shank, but less than the size of the head. When starting to dismantle, you need to know that the ultimate goal of drilling is to destroy the head that holds the fasteners in the metal, and not to completely drill the rivet. In the event that the diameter of the product rod is unknown, it is necessary to measure the outer rim and, starting from this parameter, find the required size in the catalog of the hardware manufacturer.

When drilling a rivet, the number of revolutions of the drill chuck is set to a minimum - this will allow you to perform the work as efficiently and quickly as possible. The end of the drill is installed in a recess formed by the bumpers in the center of the head, and the tool itself is positioned so that its axis is strictly perpendicular to the rivet-connected material. You need to start drilling very carefully so that the drill does not slip and damage the material. In some cases, especially when it comes to miniature fasteners, it is recommended to use a hand drill.

When the drill passes through the rivet head, the joint will fail. In some cases, when the rod of the hardware does not fall out after drilling, it is recommended to use a hammer and punch of a suitable size. In order to knock a rod out of sheet metal, usually 1-2 accurate blows of medium force are enough. If the work is done carefully, the metal around the joint will not be damaged. After the rod has been removed from the hole, you can move on to the next rivet.

The method described above is good in cases where the work needs to be done as accurately as possible, and there is a drill and a set of drills at hand. But sometimes, if the aesthetic component is not too important or when there are no power tools at hand, you can use another method, for example, knocking down the rivet head with a metal chisel.

Blind rivets are made from alloys of non-ferrous metals or mild steel, so it is not at all difficult to “cut down” its head with a chisel. To remove fasteners, the cutting edge of the tool is inserted under the edge of the head and then hammered until the top of the hardware is removed. Remnants of the rivet can be knocked out with a suitable punch. It should be said that this method is not gentle for the elements to be joined and, if the metal around the rivet has been painted, the coating will inevitably be damaged.

In the past few years, in hardware stores, you can find such a tool as a riveting nozzle. It is a simple and effective rivet remover that is a snap on your electric drill. The principle of operation with the accessory is the same as with a conventional drill, but drilling can be done faster and more accurately. The device allows you to accurately position the drill over the center of the head and drill to a strictly limited setting depth, sufficient to remove the upper part of the hardware. Unfortunately, this device is not universal and for fasteners of different sizes you will have to use interchangeable accessories of different diameters. The purchase of a nozzle makes sense only if a large amount of dismantling is to be performed or if the work is carried out in extreme conditions. Often, drills with such a rig can be seen in the arsenal of roofers working at height - working with a nozzle allows you to remove hardware using one hand.

To date, the most reliable version of fasteners is one-piece, and, having special tools on hand, you don't have to think about the question of how to rivet a rivet. Next, we will tell you exactly how such fasteners are made.

1

What is this fastener? Initially, historically, it is a metal rod, less often a plate. Always with a locking head on one side (a cap that restricts the movement of an element in the hole) and a closing head on the other end. It was first used for the manufacture of armor, such as armor and chain mail, as well as for connecting some elements of cold and early firearms. If the insert head is present initially, then the closing head arises as a result of the settling process (riveting) or with the help of a special tool due to deformation by the pull rod. It is logical that the sediment is applied to cast or stamped, all-metal elements, and rod deformation is possible only when using hollow (tubular) blind rivets. There are also explosive and split options.

Various types of rivets

So, we know that the fasteners we are considering are one-piece, which often provides high reliability. But the strength of the connection depends primarily on the material, so we will first consider the types of rivets for this very characteristic. The most common are aluminum fasteners, and copper and brass rods are used in many manufacturing processes as well as in a number of crafts. All these materials do not have a high degree of reliability and are suitable only where there are no heavy loads, for fastening decorative parts. Among other things, there are steel rivets, including stainless ones, they provide a sufficiently strong connection and are even suitable for the assembly of load-bearing structures and mechanical engineering.

It is very important to use rivets of the same material as the elements to be connected when installing metal parts.

2

Before using rivets, you need to know how to rivet certain parts correctly. There are many connection methods, but they are usually divided into 3 types. Strong fasteners are used exclusively where certain loads are present. Sealed, as the name implies, are needed in order to ensure tightness at the joints of sheets or any parts. Finally, the permanently sealed ones perform both functions. It should be noted that for the second type, that is, for sealed rivets, the insert heads are made reinforced.

Blind rivets

The most common method of joining is overlapping, and it is applied not only to, but also to complex-shaped parts. This option is also called single shear. Under the influence of multidirectional loads, for example, when stretching, such a seam can easily deform. A butt joint is more durable, using one or two (on both sides of the seam) overlays, but this option, also called multi-cut, greatly heavier the structure and leads to a greater consumption of material. Installation of rivets for fasteners can be chain or staggered, the second is more reliable, but very laborious.

Embedded heads come in a variety of shapes. The most commonly used ones are semicircular and concealed. The former completely cover the hole, like a screw head, and for the latter, the channel is expanded so that the head having the shape of an inverted cut-off cone fits completely into the hole. In the second case, the surface of the part remains smooth, since riveting occurs flush, and the destruction of such rivets becomes difficult. There are also semi-hidden form factors (with a small rounded bulge), flat, flat-conical, conical and oval.

3

The most commonly used riveting elements today, which are especially convenient if you need to attach a part to a surface, the opposite side of which is inaccessible. They represent a tube with a flaring at one of the ends (analogue of a mortgage head), in the channel of which a rod with a head passes at the flat end of the rivet. On the flared side, a large part of the rod is extended, with which the tool clamp engages, for subsequent pulling through the tube. Its straight end is crushed by the rod head and forms a closing head.

Metal rivets

However, it should be borne in mind that when two parts are connected, its channel also expands, so the edges of the holes must be strong, not subject to deformation. Therefore, for fastening plates made of a sufficiently soft material, be it plastic or aluminum, insert sleeves made of steel or washers should be used on both sides of the connecting parts. The same applies to joints, which must be movable, hinged; they are also applicable to them in combination with bushing washers, and their length must exceed the total thickness of the plates being fastened.

4

In contrast to pull-out, conventional cast or stamped riveting elements must be installed using certain forces applied to the closing end. This can be pressing or targeted impacts to flatten the end of the rod emerging from the hole. The second option most of all resembles forging, especially since it is performed in a cold or hot way. If the thickness of the riveting does not exceed 1 centimeter, a cold forging of the closing head can be used. If the diameter is more than 10 millimeters, then it is necessary to heat the fastening element to facilitate flattening of its end.

Rivet tool

As a rule, before hot riveting a rivet, it is heated in a forge, after which it is installed in the hole and a flat end cap is made with several strong blows. In this case, an anvil with a hole under the mortgage head should be located below. For the cold method, a special tool is used - a striker with a semicircular hole, with which an even hemisphere is formed by deformation of the end emerging from the hole within the notch. Sitting with a conventional hammer gives the same result if you hit the end, directing the blows slightly casual, from the center to the edges, but such a head will be less accurate.

5

As we have already said, the type of connection in question is one-piece, however, if you still need to disassemble a structure, the details of which are riveted together, you can use several different methods. The most common, which is usually applied to pull-out, explosive and split types of fasteners, as well as where countersunk heads take place - drilling. For this, a drill corresponding to the estimated or precisely known hole diameter is installed exactly in the center of the embedded or closing head, after which a hole is made to the required depth or a through channel. After that, with a few precise blows, the rivet can be easily knocked out.

Rivet Removal Tool

The second method is somewhat laborious, however, it is quite effective for heads that are clearly visible above the surface, that is, for semicircular and conical ones. You will need a special chisel that resembles a chisel, with which you need to cut off the cap, inflicting sharp and strong blows on the back end of the handle. A sharpened chisel may also work, but this tool is only recommended for small diameter rivets. Fasteners with a rod of about 1 centimeter or more are very difficult to cut in this way.

The easiest method to remove protruding rivets is to use an angle grinder, colloquially referred to as a grinder. It is best to install a cutting disc on it for this purpose, and, bringing it to the side of the head, carefully cut it off. If at the same time there is a possibility of damage to the surface of the part from which the connection is removed, it is recommended to use a coarse grinding disc, with which the head is simply gently ground down to the base. Further, having installed any sufficiently sharp tool, for example, a punch, you can easily knock the rivet rod out of the hole with a strong hammer blow.