How to label the wall under the pipes in the bathroom. Water pipes in the stroke

The stroke of the walls under the pipe is the necessary part of the work when laying a hidden water supply. You can disguise in the wall direct sections, monolithically paled and conditionally collapsible nodes of all types of pipes.

The need for strokes of walls

The disguise of heating pipes is irrelevant: the open surface gives heat. The desire to hide into the thickness of the material, unsightly nodes occurs when installing the water supply and sewage. This technique expands decorative opportunities for further decoration of the room and reduces the risk of mechanical damage to structures. "Invisibility" of pipes visually expands the room, reduces the likelihood of thermal burns about the heated surface and injuries when hitting the protruding areas.

Masters recommend masking all types of pipes, except for those performing decorative functions (for example, copper). In the absence of the possibility of deepening in an existing wall, you can use the technique of creating a false: the design is made of drywall. The disadvantage of this reception is to reduce the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, and so, as a rule, which is not distinguished by a large metro.

Elastic pipes in the stroke

Requirements for hidden communications

The rules of hidden laying of pipes are prescribed in regulatory documents. Before choosing the equipment, how to launch the wall under the pipe, it is worth familiar with the bottom on this issue. Requirements and prohibitions:

It is unacceptable for the tubes of the bearing walls, since these works affect the stability of the entire building. Before planning a water supply layout, you must familiarize yourself with the design documentation of a specific building.
Only pipes connected in monolithic welding techniques or soldering are stacked in the thickness of the wall. For structures based on collapsible or conditionally collapsible fittings, it is necessary to provide access to all nodes. This requirement is performed by organizing observation hatches and removable panels.
When laying a water supply from metal or metal-plastic structures, it is required to consider the laying circuit of electrical networks. Preliminary "transk" walls special equipment will save from unpleasant surprises. At the time of sticking in the zone of possible passage of cables and hidden wiring, the plot of work should be de-energized.
The size of the shocks is determined taking into account the direction of the wiring and the coefficient of linear expansion of a particular material used. It is minimal in metal pipes and polymer samples reinforced by aluminum. The polypropylene tube in the stroke is expanding and across, and along. The channel must be designed for such an increase. For every 3 meters of conducting a hot medium of communications, one compensation omission should be organized. Such nodes are made in the "pockets" or a wide stroke. In the absence of the required space, the expanding tube will deform the wall of the channel: the decorative decoration site will quickly come into disrepair.
The pipe in the stroke is fixed by clamps. Even with the maximum bend, it should not touch the walls of the channel: the negligence attitude to this item will lead to the appearance of foreign noise during the operation of the system. In order to prevent the knob and to maximize the temperature of the hot water pipe medium, inside the shoes can be wrapped with heat insulator. Professionals often apply a passive fungus and resistant to moisture "EnergoFlex".
When sealing the shoes, the material should not tightly lay down to the knee. Shtroba is close to the formation of an air cavity, and not poured with the composition.
The layout of the plumbing, which indicates the agreed entry points and the system output to public collectors, should be stored for the case of the need to quickly find pipes in the thickness of the wall. With high-quality work, this will be visually impossible.

Strosion of walls under the pipe

Stages of laying pipes

The technique of hidden styling of pipes includes several stages, each of which is necessary:

development of the wiring scheme, refinement of all the circumstances and the creation of the plan;
stroke under the pipe;
cleaning and strengthening the created channel;
styling and installation of pipes;
fixing the knees inside the channel by plastic clamps;
connecting inputs and system outputs;
test Start Communication and Tightness Control;
disguise cavity and creating observation holes;
decorative wall decoration

Technique and tool

Solving how to strobs the wall under the pipe, it is necessary to find out the characteristics: material, density, composition of mixtures. The stroke is performed:

hand hammer and chisel;
bulgarian;
shock drill or perforator;
special strokesis.

The first method is the most time consuming, it is only suitable for sufficiently soft walls that do not contain reinforcement inserts. Tight concrete sticking manually takes a lot of time and strength. Advantage of equipment in accuracy of work.

The work of the grinder is difficult to control the pressing of the tool: make a single depth on the entire segment of work is problematic. Detailed refinement and alignment are conducted by chisel. Bulgarian reduces the time costs of creating a main rut and gives a sufficiently flat line cutting line.

Drill or perforator in the material pierce points. The distance between them should be 1-2 cm. Then the excavations are deepened and combined with the nozzle in the form of a blade.

Stroborez - a professional instrument, calculated on such a type of work. Only it can provide smooth in depth and shape of the channel, facilitating the Master's efforts as much as possible. Lines are knocked with strokesse, then the middle of the cavity is chosen. The quality of work wins compared to other technicians.

Professional Stroborez, which can be leased if there is no need for purchase, equipped with a special vacuum cleaner. The use of a petal mask does not exclude. Plug under the pipes - dusty work, close the prevention of damage to the surfaces of the film costs not only all the items in the room where work is underway, but also upholstered furniture in the neighboring rooms.

Video: Rules of walls of walls

The stroke of the walls under the plumbing refers to the overhaul of the premises. The use of a professional tool at times will reduce the duration of the work and the likelihood of critical errors when laying communications. Preliminary consultation with a specialist will simplify the task and save time.

The need for strokes of walls

Elastic pipes in the stroke

Requirements for hidden communications

It is unacceptable for the tubes of the bearing walls, since these works affect the stability of the entire building. Before planning a water supply layout, you must familiarize yourself with the design documentation of a specific building.
Only pipes connected in monolithic welding techniques or soldering are stacked in the thickness of the wall. For structures based on collapsible or conditionally collapsible fittings, it is necessary to provide access to all nodes. This requirement is performed by organizing observation hatches and removable panels.
When laying a water supply from metal or metal-plastic structures, it is required to consider the laying circuit of electrical networks. Preliminary "transk" walls special equipment will save from unpleasant surprises. At the time of sticking in the zone of possible passage of cables and hidden wiring, the plot of work should be de-energized.
The size of the shocks is determined taking into account the direction of the wiring and the coefficient of linear expansion of a particular material used. It is minimal in metal pipes and polymer samples reinforced by aluminum. The polypropylene tube in the stroke is expanding and across, and along. The channel must be designed for such an increase. For every 3 meters of conducting a hot medium of communications, one compensation omission should be organized. Such nodes are made in the "pockets" or a wide stroke. In the absence of the required space, the expanding tube will deform the wall of the channel: the decorative decoration site will quickly come into disrepair.
The pipe in the stroke is fixed by clamps. Even with the maximum bend, it should not touch the walls of the channel: the negligence attitude to this item will lead to the appearance of foreign noise during the operation of the system. In order to prevent the knob and to maximize the temperature of the hot water pipe medium, inside the shoes can be wrapped with heat insulator. Professionals often apply a passive fungus and resistant to moisture "EnergoFlex".
When sealing the shoes, the material should not tightly lay down to the knee. Shtroba is close to the formation of an air cavity, and not poured with the composition.
The layout of the plumbing, which indicates the agreed entry points and the system output to public collectors, should be stored for the case of the need to quickly find pipes in the thickness of the wall. With high-quality work, this will be visually impossible.

Strosion of walls under the pipe

Stages of laying pipes

The technique of hidden styling of pipes includes several stages, each of which is necessary:

development of the wiring scheme, refinement of all the circumstances and the creation of the plan;
stroke under the pipe;
cleaning and strengthening the created channel;
styling and installation of pipes;
fixing the knees inside the channel by plastic clamps;
connecting inputs and system outputs;
test Start Communication and Tightness Control;
disguise cavity and creating observation holes;
decorative wall decoration

Technique and tool

Solving how to strobs the wall under the pipe, it is necessary to find out the characteristics: material, density, composition of mixtures. The stroke is performed:

hand hammer and chisel;
bulgarian;
shock drill or perforator;
special strokesis.

Drill or perforator in the material pierce points. The distance between them should be 1-2 cm. Then the excavations are deepened and combined with the nozzle in the form of a blade.

Video: Rules of walls of walls

31 July, 2016
Specialization: finishing of facades, interior decoration, construction of cottages, garages. Experience and gardener and gardener experience. There is also experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: the game is not a guitar and a lot more, to which there is not enough time :)

Communications, as you know, do not attract attractive to any interior, so many people in the process of repairing housing are trying to hide in the walls of water pipes and heat pipelines. For this, the walls of the walls are always required. On the one hand, there is nothing difficult in this operation, but on the other - before proceeding to work, you need to know some of its nuances and subtleties.

In this article, as you probably guessed, I will tell you in detail how to labby the wall under the pipe in several ways.

Instruments

The process of sticking, as well as its speed and complexity depends on the tool that work is performed. The following tools are most effective for performing this operation;

perforator;
bulgarian;
stroboresis.

Of course, you will need other some tools for sticking:

roulette;
building level;
pencil;
the device for detecting hidden wiring (if there is no scheme of its location).

After the preparation of all these tools can be started.

Technology Strobling

Regardless of the type of tool, which you will perform the stroke, this procedure can be conditionally divided into several stages:

If you do not want to independently do this work or you do not have the necessary tool, you can seek help from specialists. The cost of sticking of walls under the pipe on average is about 300 rubles per stranded meter.

Preparation and drawing

The stroke of the channels in the walls begins with the markup:

if you do not have a wiring layout in the walls before performing marking, make sure that on the site where you plan to perform the shoes, there are no hidden wires. For these purposes there are special devices;
next, use the construction level and pencil to apply marking. As a rule, it is performed according to the project of the future pipeline.
In the process of applying markup, keep in mind that the width of the stroke should be such that pipes C;
at shutdown, make sure that the markup is applied correctly.

After applying the markup, it can be measured by a tape measure. Thus, you will find out the exact number of pipes that will be needed for mounting the pipeline.

Perforator

The pocket of the perforator is the most common way to arrange channels in the walls for pipes with their own hands, since the perforator is available in almost every homemade craftsman. In addition, this method is safe and at the same time universal - in a similar way you can perform channels in the wall of any materials, be it concrete or brick.

Work is performed in such a sequence:

first of all, you need to perform holes along the intended lines. If the shifting is performed in the concrete wall, then use for these purposes a car with a winning tip. With regard to the distance between the holes, then the smaller, the better;
then switch the tool into the impact mode, after which change the corner of the chisel;
after that, connect the holes in between with a chisel;

next, you need to clean the channel with a chisel or a special blade for sticking. At the same time, keep in mind that the depth should be such that not only the pipe with the insulation can be placed in the channel space, but also a plaster solution;
at shutdown, clean the dust and other garbage. To do this, spend the channel or wipe it with a damp cloth. It should be noted that this stage is performed regardless of how the tool was carried out.

If you need to label the panel bearing wall, keep in mind that the depth of the channel should not reach the reinforcement. In addition, a diagonal stroke is not allowed.

As a result, you should get a smooth and neat channel, without any needle and irregularities.

Bulgarian

Now consider how to stick the wall under the pipe. First of all, I note that bulgarian is a very attendant tool. Therefore, when working with it, be sure to follow safety and use only high-quality discs intended for the surface you will process.

At the same time, the use of the Bulgarian has its advantages:

the edges of the channels are smooth;
the process of execution of the stroke occurs much faster than when using the perforator.

Instructions for working with the grinder in this case looks like this:

install a circle with diamond spraying software;
then make cuts according to the scheduled markup lines;

after that, select the groove with chisel and pastry. If necessary, in the middle of the grooves can be performed another incision to simplify work. In some cases, to hollow out the grooves, it is better to use the perforator.

In the process of execution, a lot of dust is formed by a grogging. Therefore, use the perforator and other personal protective equipment.

Stroborez

Stroboresis allows you to quickly and without much effort to perform channels for pipes in the walls from any materials. This tool resembles a grinder with several parallel disks. Dear models of strokesov are equipped with vacuum cleaners, which allows this procedure without dust.

The process of performing channels with strokesis is quite simple:

first of all, you need to adjust the width of the ships and the depth of the cut. Different tool models, the setup can be performed in different ways;
next, an incision is performed on the intended line. This procedure is performed according to the same principle as the grinding of the grinder, with the only difference that in one pass you perform two cuts at once;
at the end of work, the grooves should be hollowed out, and then clean the resulting channels.

It should be noted that the price of a powerful strokebook, which can be performed by channels for pipes, high enough - more than 10,000 rubles. Therefore, to repair within one apartment or a house expedient to use the grinder.

Output

In general, the stroke of the walls under the pipe is a fairly simple procedure. However, it also requires compliance with a certain technology. In this case, you will save a lot of strength and time, as well as avoid mistakes and alterations.

From the video in this article you can get more information about how the stroke of the walls of the grinder is performed. If you have any questions, ask them in the comments, and I will gladly answer you.

If you want to express your gratitude, add clarification or objection to ask the author - add a comment or tell me thanks!

In order to premises the houses look neatly and attractive, all the necessary lines for comfortable living and highways are usually paved inside the walls. For the installation of power grids, plumbing and heating pipes in the latter, long channels are pre-closed - shoes. At the same time, special tools are used, for example, Bulgarian. At the final stage, after laying the line, the imposition of the shoes. To make this procedure, of course, should be correct. Otherwise, the walls will later look inactively.

For which the shoes can be performed

Most often, the channels in the walls are closed when conducting wiring. Water pipes and boiler highways are usually allowed outside. It provides easy access if you need to repair them. However, sometimes such lines are paved inside the walls.

The set of communication systems can be made in any building material: concrete, brick, foam blocks. In brown or chopped houses, the wiring is usually started outside. After all, the material is flammable. In this case, the stroke is produced mainly only under the outlet.

Technology Calling

Actually, the procedure for spending the channel under the wiring or pipe is technologically simple. However, work is usually time-consuming and dirty. It is recommended to cover with cloth, film or paper all furniture and floors. Dust during the spelling of the channel usually there are a lot. The master itself performing the stroke, it is recommended to wear a respirator.

Bulgarian is usually used as a tool when laying a channel. Also, the masters often use a special device - strokesis. Two parallel grooves are breaking in the wall, the distance between which should be equal to the required channel width. Next, the material of the wall between the slots simply is knocked out by a hammer.

After laying, the wiring or pipes proceed to seal the shoes. This operation is also performed using special devices.

The cost of sticking and sealing

Very often, the owners of houses and apartments mount the hidden wiring or pipes on their own. However, sometimes it is more expedient to hire specialists for this purpose. Standing the channel to do the channel under the wire or heating highways relatively inexpensive. The same applies to the sealing of the stroke. The price of such works in the complex depends on the width of the channel and its length. One phenomenon meter of a 28x20 mm highway, for example, costs about 150 p, 60x60 mm - 300 p, 100x100 mm - 700 p.

This is about such a cost and you should navigate, deciding to entrust the specialists such an operation as the execution and sealing of the stroke. Estimation in this case is compiled most often without taking into account the material of the walls. And in concrete, and in the foam block, and in the brick, the shoes on the same technology are dispersed and close.

What instruments and materials will need

Thus, the pricing of the embezzlement of the stroke (and their closure) is relatively small. But to complete this work independently, of course, it will cost even cheaper. In concrete, foam blocks and brick, the shoes are most often close with cement. But if you wish, you can use for this purpose and putty, Rotband, etc. Sometimes the channels are closed and with alabaster. However, using this material experienced masters advise only in extreme cases. The fact is that the alabaster during drying is able to significantly increase in the amount. As a result, the channel wall can be simply destroyed.

The rosters under the rosettes in the tree usually adjust the special mixture consisting of sawdust and plow glue or paint.

As the tools when entering the channel uses:

putty knife;
bucket and scoop;
perforator.

How to close the canal in concrete or brick

In such walls, the sealing of the stroke is made most often using a cement solution. It is prepared on the basis of large sand in the ratio of 1: 3. You can also buy a finished cement mixture intended for masonry walls or fill foundations. Dry building makeup in a bucket and poured with water. The number of the latter is calculated based on the fact that the finished mixture should have a sufficiently thick consistency. You can check the correctness of the preparation of the solution with a simple trowel. They need to pick up some of the mixture and turn it over. A finished solution down to fall should not.

For plasticity in the mixture, you can add some lime. Actually, the sealing of the stroke in the wall is made with a spatula. A little mixture is gaining to this tool, and then apply it to the stroke, trying to fill out the latter without voids. Each portion of the solution is thoroughly align on the wall surface, moving the spatula along the canal and across it.

After drying the solution (approximately after a day), the surface of the sealed canal is cleaned with a large sandpaper. Next, the site is additionally aligned with the finish putty. At the next stage, you can proceed, actually, to the decoration of the walls.

The procedure for the use of putty will be exactly the same. The mixture is first divorced by water, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Next, with its help gently close the shit. Finish material in this case can not be used.

Nest under a socket in a wooden wall

Here is this way and performed in concrete or brick walls of the embezzlement of the stroke. The price for the meter of work in this case, as already mentioned, relatively small. Installation of hidden wiring in a wooden house - the operation is much more complicated and expensive.

Wires in a chilled or a paving house can be stretched only in an open way. That is, it is impossible to hide them into the walls. So prescribes safety technician. Hide the wires in this case by special ways (for example, passing them through overlaps).

Hidden installation of the outlet in a wooden wall is possible only in one case. Installation should be made according to a special technology that provides security. First, the nest in the log or Bursa is put. Then inserted into it is inserted from thick metal. Next, the channels are drilled under metal tubes for wiring.

Inserting the ships using any compositions in this case is not required. A recessed socket usually looks quite aesthetic. However, sometimes it happens that uncertain gaps remain around the conversion. In this case, it is possible to correct the situation with the help of a special composition prepared using sawdust.

Make such a masonry material independently easy. For this you need to prepare small sawdust (you can take the same that remained after the sticking) and PVA glue. Also as a binder is allowed to use epoxy. If desired, of course, you can buy in the store and the finished adjustment mixture for the tree.

A putty is prepared for chopped or broken walls by simply mixing sawdust and glue. The finished composition must have a consistency of sour cream. When cooking a putty glue should be poured into sawdust, and not vice versa.

Sewer pipelines perform an important task to ensure human activity. In an apartment or private house, you can mount such a highway with your own hands, if you know how the sewer pipe is correctly performed. All major and main features of this process are reflected in the article.

Preparatory work

Before installing the pipeline, drawings are drawn by sewer pipes. They are necessary for designing the most optimal ways to connect sanitary devices and perform an accurate calculation of the required pipeline products.

In addition, the scheme will help determine how many shaped parts must be purchased for future sewage. To lay the sewer pipeline does not need a special tool. You can quite walk with a hacksaw, a file and a tape measure.

Be sure to purchase pipe and shaped sewer products, it is necessary to make sure that on all elements of the sealing cuffs. Elastic bands should not have any damage, otherwise the tightness of the connection is not guaranteed.

Laying highway

Installation of the sewer pipeline is performed in several stages:

The cutting of plastic sewer parts is carried out by conventional hacksaw (for metal) or special scissors.
It is necessary to remove the chamme as an ordinary file with an ordinary file at an angle of 15º. The chamfer is needed for:
- simplifying the assembly of the pipeline;
- minimizing the risk of damage to the sealing ring when connecting pipes.

When installing the sewage line, it is strictly prohibited to cut and reduce the length of the shaped product of the pipeline.

In front of the direct assembly of the highway, all layout of the sewage pipes is declined to the floor according to the laying scheme. After checking the presence of all shaped parts and compliance with the required length of all pipes, you can start assembling products into a single system.

To facilitate the connection of parts, it is necessary to lubricate the elements to silicone sealant to mate. Thanks to the use of sealant:
- significantly simplifies the connection of the parts of the pipeline;
- rubber cuffs are saved;
- excludes sticking cuff with pipes.

Due to the temperature changes in the length of the pipe, it is necessary to provide a compensating clearance in the direct portion. To do this, on a straight junction, connecting items to instill first until the stop, and then pull the pipe to 1.0 cm.

Optimal bias

The sewage is a non-pressure system in which wastewater moves gravity. Therefore, the wiring of sewer pipes in the bathroom, kitchen and other rooms is considered to be done correctly if the required slope of the system is set.

Many beginner masters allow a big mistake thinking that the larger the slope of the sewer pipe, the better. The fact is that there are no homogeneous wastewater in the pipes. It also contains kitchen stocks in the form of fat and other impurities. Therefore, the speed of transportation of sewage drains is not the same.

With a too big slope, the water will be effectively derived from the system, and the remains of food and fats will settle on the insides of the pipes in the form of deposits. If the slope is chosen optimally, then the liquid medium will have time to move with them solid residues.

According to construction standards and rules, the optimal is the bias (for each meter) for products:

up to 50.0 mm in diameter - 3.0 cm;
up to 100.0 mm in diameter - 2.0 cm.

The order of fastening pipes

Proper and reliable fastening of the pipeline is a very important stage when installing the pipeline system. Along the walls of the pipes are fixed using special clamps. The distance between the clamps usually choose equal to 10 pipe diameters. Clamps are divided into:

rigid with rubber seals;
floating (without sealing).

Features of laying pipes in the strokes

When laying a pipeline in the strokes before their concrete, it is necessary:

Set the correct bias of the system.
Provide temperature gaps.
Ensure the location of pipes without curvature and internal stresses.
Exclude pipe offset when concreting.
Reliable to take away all the gaps with a special tape.

Before you start laying pipes for hot and cold water, it is advisable to breed the sewer. This should be done at least because, as a rule, draining into the total pipe of the entrance is almost at the level of the first floor. In addition, the slope must be observed, since there is no powerful pressure, as in the plumbing, there are no - waste must be able to drain on their own. The bias should not be too large, as it is possible to drag pipes and breaks the waterproof in siphons and toilet bowls. In addition, it must be different for pipes of different diameters. According to SNiP, with diameter up to 50 mm, a bias - 3 cm, with a larger - 2 cm.

I had a problem with the sewer rummer: the installed crosst was too high above the floor. I first did not pay attention to it. Fortunately, I was warned by Plumbing about it before I started laying pipes. Only here to lower the cross, it was necessary to simultaneously pretend the neighbors from the bottom, which by that time did not come to their apartment, me and plumbing. We had to call them many times, negotiate a meeting, to transfer it, etc. I remember, several weeks have passed before with the level of sewage the question was resolved.

By this time I needed to accurately decide on the placement of plumbing indoors and purchase all the necessary materials.

On the Internet you can find different recommendations for the location of the plumbing. For example, the installation of the toilet can be found: in front of it there should be at least 60 cm of free space, and on both sides of its axis - at least 40 cm. Before the sink washbasin and the bathroom there must also be a space and a free approach.

The following very conditional scheme has been preserved, which was guided during operation:

Plumbing accommodation scheme.

The washing machine (cm) is usually installed either in the bathroom or in the kitchen. I stopped in the first version, and between the bathroom and cm decided to build a partition from the PGP. In this case, the bath is fenced from three sides, while the water is less sprinkled, the curtain cornice can be made directly, and in the compartment for cm it is possible to hang the shelves for linen or something else. Bath length is small - 160 cm, it will not work completely in it. But you can wash out quite comfortable. But the flow of water is less, and in general ... Water take care of and save.

After it was determined with the layout, it was possible to do directly by the wiring of the sewage. The scheme above modified:

Wiring sewage.

Here the pipe suitable for cm is shown with a break. Later I decided to make her straight and break through the hole for this through the partition. First, the smaller the turns do the pipe, the better; Secondly, it just needs less work.

I understand the location of the pipes.

In the picture you can see that the coupling in the riser is inserted to solve the mentioned problem of the high location of the cross. The temporary "corrugation harmonica" is removed, instead of it installed 110/67 with a plug.

The scheme is above seen that the axes of the output of the toilet and crosses are parallel, but are at a certain distance from each other. In addition, they differ and high. To connect the toilet to the cross, you need two angular removal and pipe between them.

The size of the box around the risers wanted to make the minimum necessary. I first counted it, and also moved the layout options for the location of the toilet. Initially, it was purchased, among other things, two taps 110/45, but changed them at 110/67 after it was recalculated all the sizes. This allowed to make a box already and at the same time comply with the recommendation on the free space around the toilet.

Yes, I still forgot to say that before the wiring of all pipes, it is necessary to cut through the walls, if necessary, the ships (or "tributes" - who like it). Horizontal shoes in the bearing walls, as remember, do it is prohibited. According to the installation technologies of KNAUF, in the walls folded from the PGP with a thickness of 80 mm, you can make a shorter length of up to 1 meter at their depth of 40 mm and more. The distance between the cutting grooves should be at least a meter. I specifically removes the DHW riser for a heated towel rail (PS) asked to do at the right distance - to take into account this requirement, as well as the height of the pre-selected PS.

Retroges for PS are cut through.

For pipes, laid vertically for water intake and sewage to washbasin and bathroom, I also cut the shoes. I almost did not touch the metal reinforcement in Monolith, but I got close to it:

Shorts in monolith.

To hide the horizontal layout of the pipes, scheduled to make a small box.

After the stroke, I decided to apply hyproolation on all the joints of the walls and the floor where the pipes will be held. The rest of the floor area and part of the walls will be processed after laying and installing boxes. Used the coolant waterproofing Unis "Hydroplast". Between the layers of the wall of the wall-floor was combined by the waterproofing tape Knauf "Flahendichtband". I wanted to do everything in accordance with the technological standards, but to get this tape, I remember, it was not easy - I had to search for a long time throughout Moscow.

When assembling the box frame, used guides (NP) and rack (SP) profiles of 50/50 and 50/40, respectively.

Collect box box.

Yellow lining - "Vibrastek", is used for sound insulation (ZI). In this case, the screed and profiles are associated with so-called "sound bridges" (dowels, in this case), so the effect of zi is reduced. However, at the very end, when the box was completely ready, and the tile is laid, the noise from the water and sewage rims was really significantly reduced.

In the same way, the framework of heating risers was collected:

The skeleton of the heating box is ready.

Here the sewer pipes are already divorced:

Wiring of sewage pipes.

Used Ostendorf polypropylene pipes. Very high quality, with dense elastic rubber bands for a reliable connection. On each pipe there is even a centimeter markup for convenience.

All branching pipes should not have a straight corner. It is advisable to use taps and tees with an angle of 45 degrees.

Removal to see

There is a compound of tee 50/40/45 (that is, the main pipe has a diameter of 50 mm, the removal is 40 mm, and the angle between them is 45 degrees) with a pipe tap for cm. At the entrance to the opening of the partition, the pipe is wrapped with vibratekom, then it smeared it with a sealant.

To the wall of the pipe is attached by special clips with latches.

Now I remember that it was very difficult to connect the pipes with a pass through the wall. I needed an assistant to keep one pipe from this side of the partition, and on the other side to push the second pipe, turning it into the elastic band of the opposite part. Although I used an Ostendorf special factory lubricant to connect, it was still not easy to do it. In fact, there was a very comical situation, I ran there - here and tried to do something. Then, probably, fixed the fan tube with a clip to the wall, after which it went. There is a contact!

To the place of the future washbasin led the pipe with a diameter of 40 mm. Here a bunch of compounds was assumed: from the tee there is a removal at an angle of 45 degrees, then a piece of pipe and one more removal and so on. I even painted the scheme in the Sketchup in advance to understand how this "zagulin" looks like in the volume, what angles are used to connect parts and what should be the length of the pipes:

Prepared variant of the washbasin drain.

In practice, everything turned a little easier than I represented this and depicted in the scheme. The result is in the photo:

Sewer drain from washbasin.

Now it's time for soldering water pipes.

When choosing a pipe material, I stopped on polypropylene. Steel pipes in apartments are no longer used: expensive, rust, greater complexity of the gasket. About metalplastic read negative reviews, one time he was at the peak of fashion, then more reliable alternatives appeared. Most often copper and polypropylene are now spread. It seems to me that copper pipes are not so harmless. I like the reinforced fiberglass polypropylene with its characteristics most of all.

I bought an inexpensive apparatus for soldering polypropylene ENCOR ASP-150. I ordered the fittings and pipes of the company Wefatherm with a diameter of 20 and 25 mm.

For the test, the fitting was taken - the kit of 45 degrees and two cuts of the pipe and smelled them:

Test connection.

Then the grinder cut the connection along to check the weld quality:

Sheos reliable.

The seam is reliable, more precisely, it is not visible at all - the fitting material and pipes are rushed almost into one.

Now you can solder the eyeliner to the PS.

Conclusion for connecting PS.

Putting test parts is one thing, and the finished pipe with different corners of the connections is completely different. It is not a metal-plastic that you can be free to bend hands. Slightly mistaken when welded - unfinished, reworked, could not resist the desired angle - it is necessary to cut off the pipe, spend extra fitting, cook again, and even start again. True, a small deviation of the angle can be compensated by the properties of polypropylene: if the pipe is slightly bend and keep in this form long (days), it will save this form.

According to the requirements of the installation of PGP, communication should not come into contact with the partition and must be isolated. Therefore, in the stroke, the pipe is wrapped with thermal insulation.

Connecting PS pipe to the riser.

Here is one of the pipes to the PS fed and connected to a special clutch with a 25x3 / 4 cape nut. "There was an unpleasant feeling from the fact that it was necessary to drag this nut, otherwise the connection was smaller, the angle of the paved pipe was imperfect. True, with That moment has passed for 3 years, while everything is fine.

Well, and here both polypropylene pipes are connected to a DHW riser:

Both rolling riser are connected to PS.

And this is a general view of how polypropylene pipes are connected to PS:

Power supply to PS.

Pipes are laid in the shoes and fixed. To do this, used the self-tapping screws, which only slightly support the plumbing so that it does not hang up to curing the mounting mixture. Then the self-tapping screws are either twisted if the wall sticks over the surface or remains there.

The partition between the bathroom and see, as already spoke, was collected from moisture-resistant puzzle plates (PGP). The size of one such unit 667x500x80 with a weight of 28 kg. In the adjacent wall, at the beginning of the chisel, a shallow groove of about 1-2 centimeters deployed, and the PGP blocks were fixed. It turned out like this:

Partition Bathroom and cm from PGP.

In the upper unit made slots to improve ventilation. Attached to the ceiling with suspensions. The wall turned out to be strong enough. I can calmly fall on her - keeps well.

On the right side, two essays struck, where the sewage and water will be summed up:

Communications for see.

It uses an embedded siphon for a washing machine 40/50 Viega. I just read on the MasterCity that plumbing successfully use it for the hidden installation of the sewer supply, so bought in advance.

I now turn to the lock-controlled node.

It looks in the assembled form like this:

Sloping-regulating knot.

I had to study different materials for a long time to have an idea of \u200b\u200bhow water from a common riser enters the household crane.

First of all, a good ball valve must be installed on the rope of the rim, preferably with a handle-lever. I use OVENTROP cranes with a "butterfly" handle, but they work wonderful, open and close very smoothly and without significant effort.

Below the mud is the Arzamas water meter. This is the only detail that remains in the shut-off-regulating node from the developer. The counter to the surrounding elements will be pulled by naked nuts - "American". They gave me a local plumber. In one American from each pair there is a check valve (OK). After reading the plumbing forums, I found out that such ok is unreliable and pressure drops significantly. Therefore, he took his perforator with a drill with a diameter of 15 mm and these OK in American ruthlessly drilled.

About OK I asked the local plumbing - whether there are requirements in the house for its installation. He said no. In addition, in the forums, I learned that many plumbers do not use ok in low pressure water pipes. At the beginning, my pressure gauges showed 1.5 atmosphere. Subsequently, as the house settles, the pressure apparently increased. Nevertheless, I decided to establish high-quality OK to insure myself for the future if the tenants would oblige them to connect them.

Used valve reverse spring OVENTROP with scythewing. The hull is also made of bronze. According to the documentation, the lifting pressure of 40 mbar, that is, that the valve has opened, you need to compress the spring inside OK with the specified pressure.

Generally speaking, OK prevents water from entering one riser in another. Sometimes it happens if the plumbing is incorrectly connected, or low-quality mixers are used. Then the neighbors from both cranes will flow hot (or cold) water. It is clear that the people save on the installation approach, because it is not needed for himself, but in order to protect the neighbors. Therefore, ok justifies the appointment when all residents of the entrance are used. Well, I do not care about saving others, but my own conscience is clean.

Next, the bronze square Viega is screwed into approx. On the one hand he has an outer thread (HP), on the other - external (BP). The square connects OK with the Honeywell filter, which is installed horizontally (therefore, the rotation of 90 degrees is needed). Full name: "Mechanical filter with pressure reducer FK 06 1/2".

There are two varieties of the filter - for cold and hot water (suffixes in the name AA, AAM, respectively). The first is designed to work at a water temperature of up to 40 degrees, its flask - glass, the second - functions at temperatures up to 70 degrees, and its flask is brass.

What if my neighbors do not use ok (they do not use it), and hot water will accidentally fall out of the DHW in the rh3, and then in the glass flask of my filter? It will burst, and there will be a flood. I need it? I decide to buy brass flask and replace the glass. Of course, it was necessary to immediately buy two filters for hot water, but for too much time has passed too much to exchange. The seller who bought a spare part assured that nowhere glass flasks are burst. No, better I believe my logic.

Similar arguments are possible about polypropylene tubes: there are those that are designed for high temperatures (they are reinforced in the production of fiberglass), and there are those used for cold water. If hot water can get into the rh3, it is better to breed reinforced pipes in both cases.

Are extra costs for ok, brass flask, high-quality polypropylene pipes? I can say that at least a couple of times in both risks appeared hot water. There was even a scandal in the house: someone incorrectly connected the plumbing, the tenants were indignant, and the employee of the serving company showed an inadequate response to the situation and was then fired. But I have everything in order: both water pipes are designed for the temperature of hot water.

A domestic pressure gauge DM 15-063-1-G was installed on the filter. The brass drainage fitting with the crane is screwed below, it is needed for washing the filter. A flexible hose is connected to it, which can then be directed to the toilet or sink during plum.

The mud filter uses a mesh with a cell diameter of 600 μm, and Honeywell - with a cell diameter of 100 microns, so that they are complemented by each other when water purification.

When installing, used flax with unipak sealing paste. I also had a fum-tape, I bought it for fastening metal threads of polypropylene fittings, but in the end, I used Len everywhere, so I had to learn how to weave him and wind well.

I start to solder polypropylene.

The pipe is already connected here after the filter. I must say that when soldering, as well as when working with fan pipes for sewage, it is advisable not to use straight angles. Where without it it does not work out, you can use special fittings - elongated squares, as shown in the lower end of the pipe. At the upper end to the American filter, a fitting was screwed with a metal internal thread and a diameter transition from 1/2 "by 25 mm. Why do you need a transition to a larger diameter? Often in apartments use a special part - a collector to which the taps are directly connected to all water testing points directly. . Do it to reduce the effect of these disclaim points on each other. For example, a person is cleansed in the bathroom, and at this time someone opened a crane in the kitchen, while it was very hot water out of the soul. To avoid, and use the collector. Usually It is connected to the taps on metalplastic. For polypropylene, you can use the so-called "stretched collector" when the main pipe is a larger diameter, and the taps to the water parsing points are smaller.

Why do I have a locking and regulatory fittings having a diameter of 1/2 ", then the pipe expands to 25 mm and again narrows up to 20 mm at the discount points? Just because there are very rare in apartments with a total of 3/4", to the same value of the entire node at the same time increases significantly compared to the same, but by 1/2 ". Did the use of a stretched collector gave some advantages? That I do not know, I don't know what I have not been compared with what I just used the recommendations of experienced specialists . It seems to me that the advantage is still there, and the increased diameter of the main part of the pipe allows you to pass more water with a smaller resistance of their walls.

The pipe departing from the filter is attracted to the wall of the clamps so that everything was securely fixed and did not hang out. But a similar node for hot water is practically hanging in the air - to the wall is distant. Therefore, I took the old PS, cut off a piece of a piece in the form of the letter "g". His one side attached with two clamps to the monolithic wall, and the other led the other with a gently under the fitting, leaving the Honeywell filter. In the picture here it is not shown.

Here is an example of working with a welding machine:

Polypropylene complex detail.

As already spoke, the connection from individual fittings and pipes is obtained very durable and reliable, but it is advisable to prevent cooking errors. Here I do, if I'm not mistaken, the pipe to the laying of the toilet bowl.

When all the necessary details, the tools are at hand, and does not interfere with anything, work goes fast enough. In the picture, most of the water pipeline is ready:

Pipe water pipes.

I note that the wiring of cold water should go below the hot, so that the first is heated less from the heat of the second. It is obvious.

The most difficult part is to combine pieces of pipes for cold water before entering the wall. It is necessary to push them to insert the device for welding, heat to melting the ends, quickly remove the device, connect the pipe and fitting with another previously welded pipe, wait until they are cooled, and after that it is only with relief to exhale. And even the branch to see here complicated the task. A piece of PGP pups is laid for the placement of the welding machine.

For installation and fixing of fittings, a special installation plate was purchased for the bathroom for the bathroom:

Water treatment for the bathroom.

On the reverse side of the wall on the future kitchen, I complete pipe wiring:

Water pipe pipes in the kitchen.

I decided to make two removal of cold water - for washing and for a filter or a washing machine. The latter did not have enough brand fitting, had to go to the market and choose there from the available available. Bought and plug corks at the same time.

When the plugs are cooled to all shifts of water-based points, it is possible to test the paved pipe system - crimping.

According to SNiP, 3.05.01-85 for plumbing systems, it is enough to create a pressure exceeding 1.5 times the working one. If for 10 minutes the pressure did not fall more than 0.05 MPa (that is, the floor bar), then the system is accepted. I also read somewhere that you need to wait a couple of hours under an increased load. There are special apparatus for crimping. I did not want to engage in their search, so I used a homemade way to read in the forum:

Pressing.

Cranes on the taps of risers need to be closed, as OK slightly discard pressure. Next, you need a fitting, hose, sprayer. I already have pressure gauges - on Honeywell filters. I put a hose on the fitting, I start to download:

Rapid pressure.

One and a half atmosphere of working pressure are converted into three. After that, the hose breaks down from the fitting, the jet of water flies right into me. Laugh. It is necessary to pump again. Several times it was possible to raise the pressure even higher and closed the cranes. I waited a couple of hours, I was convinced that there are no leaks and a large drop in pressure.

I forgot to say that in the previous picture I am visible another tap of the pipe (except cold and hot). This is a removal of the hygienic soul. I read the recommendations, I bought a mixer with this shower - you never know how to use it.

Now the plumbing is tested, you can close it with a box. The frame was ready for a long time, here is the view of it after the water pipe is wiring:

The box is ready for the trim.

Planned in the box to build hidden hatches. Therefore, with the help of profiles, he prepared a frame:

Preparing a place for a hidden hatch.

By the way, I spoke above about a piece of old PS to support the shut-off-regulating node of hot water. Here you can see it.

Tires for water separation of the washbasin are already smeared by cement mixture. Two flexible liners connected to the water.

To cover the box, a moisture-resistant plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm was used. The conclusions of water and sewage pipes wrapped with Vibrastek and zasilonil "Vibrosil":

Conclusions of communications.

The box is going fast enough, the main thing is the holes for communications to do for sure. Luke is also installed:

Block around water and sewage risers.

The frame from the profiles around the heat pipes is silent as well, it is even easier here - there are no pipe conclusions:

Block around the heat pipe.

Luke can only be installed here, then the plumber made me a complaint about this. Full name - "Pressure Luke-Invisible Euroformat AT 20-50". In total, I purchased 4 pieces, two of them assumed to install the bathroom in the screen.

This part is complete. She and so turned out very long. Total, I finished here with a description of the assembly of a shut-off-regulating node, which began in the last part, spoke about the wiring of water and sewage pipes and the assembly of boxes around the risers.

The rest of the description of the bathroom decoration can be read by reference.

If, during the repair, the goal is made everything perfectly, then at the very beginning of work will have to stick the walls for the pipes of the water pipeline. Yes, this is an additional difficult task, but the result will show how appropriate it was. In this article we will show in detail how to labby the wall under the pipes in the bathroom.

Marking under the stroke

It is important to place pipes plumbing in the wall "Cunning", compactly so that in the future I did not have to remember where they pass.

As a rule, they are trying to place them strictly horizontally or vertically relative to the floor surface. Thanks to this, do not have to worry every time you need to drill a hole in the wall.

It is advisable in advance to draw up a drawing on the wall for the stroke, in which the diameter of the pipe and the depth of the desired groove will be taken into account. In the standard, the size of the shifting is 25 * 25 mm.

The created sketch will simplify the operation of the water supply in the future, especially in cases of leakage and the need for scheduled maintenance. The markup also takes into account the position of the electrical wiring.

The basic principle

The basic principle of sticking is to create a shallow "hole", in which it is necessary to make a communication junction. To do this, drove the walls with a specialized building tool ( stroborez) Two parallel at a distance of each other are 2.5 cm.

The depth is about the same, this is due to the diameter of the pipes (as a rule, 20 mm).

After all manipulations are performed, the perforator comes into operation. With it, it is removed internally filling between slots.

Drink furrows

Drinking on the wall of grooves for the shifts is not complicated, but "dusty" occupation. For these purposes, you can use:

Bulgarian - working with it can take longer and the level of dust will be higher. This option is perfect for household masters who make repair for themselves. It is very important to purchase a high-quality diamond circle, otherwise problems can arise with concrete walls.
Stroborez - Professional tool for strobal walls. It provides smooth in depth and form of the channel, and does not require significant effort from the Master. The average cost of strokeworks on the market - 6000 rubles, but it can be rented for 500 rubles / day.

Removing the middle part of the short

Remove the internal filling of the slot can be three ways:

the perforator with the nozzle "Chisel" - the procedure is performed quite easily, but it is necessary to correctly evaluate the accompanying efforts in order not to disrupt the integrity of the edges of the grooves;
manually with a hammer and chisel - requires strength and time, but it will be perfect for the case when there is no professional tool at hand.

Comment by our expert: "Yes, for those who make a repair one, and there is a goal to save - you can pull the walls with appliant tools. Bulgarian with a good circle + chisel with a hammer. It will be more difficult and longer, but it will not cost anything. "

Selecting the optimal tool, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the wall is made of. It may be a brick, concrete, a fanny or gasoblock.

The last two options are easy to handle manually, but with brick and concrete walls, it is still desirable to use a professional tool.

Attention to the means of protection

It is very important during work to use security tools. In the process of cutting there is a lot of dust, sand, stones can also be chopped. To avoid injuries or health problems, you need to use the following devices:

protective glasses;
respirator;
gloves;
closed clothes.

In addition to the means of protection, it is very important to follow safety rules:

the bearing walls are the risk zone in panel-type homes (it is not always possible to stroke them);
the deformation of the reinforced concrete structure of reinforced concrete structures is strictly prohibited;
in concrete walls, it is desirable to stick the walls not deeply and in the vertical direction;
in the walls with deformed reinforcement, it is not worth conducting any operations, as it will only increase the risk of collapse;
pay attention to the wiring.

Laying pipes

After the internal content is removed from the grooves, you should make sure that there are no extra protrusions in the cavity, which will prevent the pipe mounting. After completing the channel cleaning, you can proceed to the final stages.

All pipes are placed in a special foamed corrugation. Such precautions will avoid wetting the wall in the case of leaks, and reduce the effects of moisture action on the basis.

Also, the corrugation levels compression and expansion of the pipe when changing the temperature. Fixation of pipes inside the frame occurs on metal punctuents, which is screwed to the surface of the walls by self-draws.

Making sure the reliability of fixation, the absence of protruding details, the shit is sweeping.

Pipes are unlikely to be able to improve the appearance of the premises, like any other communications used in our home. For this reason, an increasing number of people makes the decision to hide these same pipes into the walls. And if we are not talking about wall-mounted plasterboard designs or other attached panels, then niches for communications should be made directly inside a concrete or brick design with subsequent finish. In this article we will tell about how and how to correctly carry out the stroke of the walls under the pipes in the bathroom.

The size of the shine is not longer to exceed the third thickness of the wall, and should not reach the depth of the reinforcement;
Stroke the bearing walls and slabs of overlapping in panel houses is prohibited, as it can break the strength of the structure;
All communications passing in the zone of stratobile work must be disabled. This is especially true for electrical communications if they were previously laid in the walls in this way;
It is not necessary to remake with the width or depth of the stroke, since with the sealing of too large designs of this kind, a lot of material will spend;
When working, it is mandatory to wear glasses and means for protecting the respiratory tract. Try to work in closed clothes;
After completion of the work, the groove is carefully cleaned from dust and loose fragments, and its surface is covered with primer composition;
Vertical shifts can not be done in less than 10 centimeters from windows and doors, and in less than 40 centimeters from gas pipes;
The width and depth of the groove should not exceed 25 millimeters, and the length is 3 meters.

The difference of the process depending on the type of wall

The easiest to do the grooves is in case of working with a brick wall. The thing is that everything is enough here just a simple chisel to vomit the solution from the masonry along the route of the future of communications. However, it can only be so easy when installing horizontal strokes, as the vertical grooves will make the necessary punching of the brick itself. However, "red" and silicate bricks make their way enough and without power tools.

In the case of a concrete wall, everything is much more complicated, as it will require much more effort and a simple chisel often can no longer do.

Various types of tools for sticking

Stroborez

A special tool that is created to cut the channels in the walls and is intended to simplify the process as much as possible. Externally, this material resembles a grinder, but instead of one disk there are two parallel. The distance between them can be adjusted, as well as the depth of penetration into the wall structure. Finally, this apparatus has a special dust collector, which makes the procedure as clean and undemanding to the means of individual protection. Although it is better to take advantage of them.

After the grooves with the desired parameters are cut in the wall, it remains only to vomit the space between them with a perforator or chisel.

In general, the device can be called an ideal way to make grooves the desired depth and width in any wall structures. At the same time, this of all tools this makes the smallest requirements for the professionalism of the Contractor. However, the tool has a serious drawback - it is unlikely to be able to borrow from the neighbor, and it is difficult to rent it difficult. You will have to buy it, and it is very expensive, and it is impractical for private use. Therefore, we will look at the options when applying tools are used for sticking.

Bulgarian

The tool is also called the angular grinder and is used in a variety of works - ranging from abrasive cutting and ending with stripping of various surfaces. For the sticking of the walls, regardless of whether it is about concrete or brick, we need a disk with a diamond spraying, specially designed for work on mineral materials. You can try to work as a regular disk, but the process in this case will strongly delay. The process itself is divided into several stages:

To get started, we need to outline contours on the wall of the pencil, as well as prepare personal protective equipment, as there will be a lot of dust;
There are two parallel grooves. Try to guess with the depth of the slot and constantly keep this parameter at a single level;
Armed with a chisel and a hammer, the material is knocked out between the grooves on the desired depth.

Perforator with a special nozzle

This tool was already mentioned above, where they were asked to knock out the material between the grooves done by other tools. But the perforator can be applied independently. This tool very well destroys the brick and concrete, including reinforced concrete structures. Finally, dust in this case stands out much less than when working with a grinder. Of the minuses, you can call a big level of noise, as well as the lack of smooth edges. But in most cases the latter is not so important, because all the flaws are hidden under the finish. You can work in two ways:

Putting the grooves by the perforator himself. The easiest and most fast way, since it does not imply any additional actions. Try to work carefully, so that you do not split the walls often;
Drilling in the wall of the holes along the future stride with the subsequent issuance of the material between them.

Important! Of all the methods described in this article, the perforator is optimal.

Chisel

The longest and inconvenient way. Suitable only if there is no one at hand, the electrical tool has nowhere to connect, or you also need to do a groove of a small length.

The process is quite simple technically - the chisel is scheduled for recesses along the edges of the shoes, after which the entire material hoses the same tool and hammer.

Conclusion

After the sticking is completed, whatever communications are discussed, it is recommended to draw the location plan of the grooves, as in the future it will help with the following repairs.