Sheathe the house with plastic clapboard outside. Decorating inside the house with clapboard - how to do it yourself? The lining for outdoor decoration can be the same as for the interior

The apartment in which the renovation begins is like a blank canvas, like a ticket to a new life. I hope you have stocked up with patience, endurance, money and - a vision of how you will truly create "your" home. And creation will have to start from the base - electrical wiring.

I recommend that you be extremely careful with this stage of repair. Not just invite an electrician (at best, on the recommendations of friends) and give it to him at the mercy, but delve into the issue personally, and more deeply. After reading this material, you will be convinced that at the initial stage you will have to confuse yourself a little more in order to finally get a really modern comfortable "fortress house". In which life will be comfortable and rational.

The catch is that the concept of correctness in this matter is extremely vague. From generally accepted standards since Soviet times to progressive and, in fact, appropriate in the 21st century. I will try to tell you about the second option. And show its capabilities and benefits. Of course, it is impossible to grasp the immensity and to state in detail all the subtleties of apartment wiring within the framework of one material. But, I hope, it turned out to reveal the main idea - about why one should deviate from the usual techniques.

So, your main task is to achieve a convenient and correct electrical circuit. In simple terms: so that the sockets and switches are in convenient places (but not an eyesore), so that they are surely enough, so that the equipment works without interruptions, and it is absolutely safe to use electricity in the apartment. It is possible to achieve this by following a simple algorithm. And a good start here is half the battle. Where do you start? In the mind - from planning and drafting technical scheme... For which you have to go through 3 main stages:

outline the location of the shield,
draw up a diagram of the location of sockets and switches,
draw routes and calculate the required amount of cable.

For clarity, here and there I will illustrate the material with data from the site of a large electrical and lighting store "AxiomPlus". There is always up-to-date technical and price information.

Where to install the shield?

In 99% of cases, they are placed in the hallway, which is not devoid of logic. By placing the box in the front door area at a height of about 1.5 meters from the floor, you:

reduce the length of the supply cable to a minimum,
at the exit from the apartment you can, if necessary, disconnect unnecessary lines,
prevent small children from accessing the content.

Once you've identified a suitable location, place markers on the wall so as not to "lose". And let's move on.

Please note: it is too early to buy the visor itself at this stage! You do not yet know which modular devices and in what quantities will be located in it, therefore you do not have data for choosing the size and capacity of the box. All this will become known later. In addition, below I will talk about the capabilities of the new type of switchboards. I promise they will be a godsend for many.

Further, according to the plan, the marking of the outlet groups and switches.

It is quite possible to cope with this on your own, because who knows better than you where to place furniture, appliances and lamps? Take a course on convenience. Walk around the apartment, determine where you need the main and additional lighting. Discuss with other family members how and where they can use the technique.

Then, on paper (or on a copy of the apartment plan), in a mobile application, on a computer (whichever is more convenient), sketch out the layout of the overall furniture (sofas, tables, beds, cabinets, TV and audio equipment, kitchen furniture). And after that - the location of the sockets and switches. Why after? So that in fact it does not turn out that a third of the connection points are hidden behind bulky interior items and become inaccessible for use, and there is nowhere to turn on some of the equipment.

Tip: do not skimp on the number of outlets. In this matter, it is better before than not. As practice shows, at least 50 pieces are used for a standard two-room apartment. Group them 2-3-4, it's convenient. And in the future, when several connection points are united by one decorative frame, and aesthetically pleasing. "Save money" at this stage - you will receive less in everyday comfort. And over time, also "decorate" the apartment with garlands of wires from extension cords and tees.

Have you come up with it? Have you planned? Pick up a pencil with a strong lead (there are also special construction ones) and ... feel like Michelangelo.

The next task is to paint on the walls and ceiling.

Draw a path from each planned outlet and switch to the dashboard. That is, from the point on the walls where they will be located in the near future. Route the main cable routes either along the floor or along the ceiling. How to choose? If a heated floor is planned, then the ceiling cable laying is actually the only possible option and in practice it is most often used.

To be fair, I will make a remark. In theory, a "warm floor" does not interfere with the laying of cable routes in the floor. Here the question rests on the thickness of the screed: for example, you can safely pour anything you want into a 10-cm layer of the screed. But in apartments they usually try not to "eat" so much. We will talk in more detail below about the “warm field” (and how, in fact, “eat” less height).

When drawing, make sure that the lines go from above to the sockets (each 0.3 m from the floor) and switches (0.9-1 m from the floor) strictly vertically, and all turns are only at right angles.

As a result of the arts, you will receive many drawn lines converging at one point - at the place where the apartment electrical panel is installed. Why do this? For a preliminary calculation of the required length of the cable.

Tip: Mark each pencil line clearly marking where the cable will be routed from. This will greatly facilitate and speed up the installation in the future.

Why are there so many lines?

It is important to understand: a progressive approach to the organization of wiring assumes that each outlet or switch is connected with a wire directly to the shield, without junction boxes and without connections. it the most reliable and high quality that you can do with home wiring... Frankly speaking, the main cause of fires due to faults in the electrical wiring is precisely the places where the wires are connected. This is the most problematic place. Accordingly, if there are no connections, the risks are several times lower.

It's comfortable. Stand-alone circuits are always more practical than all outlets powered by a single cable. An accident happened in one of them, they turned off the entire line "until clarification" - and you sit without the opportunity to turn on electrical appliances anywhere. Plus it is often cheaper. Well, at least not more expensive, I'll cover the topic below.

How electricians still do, and why it is wrong.

I will not speak for all specialists, but the fact remains. For a long time, the masters who think and act according to the standards of the last century will not be gone. Not for the needs of modern housing with its electrical stuffing. What does it mean? And the fact that the project of wiring and calculations of the cable, and, accordingly, the automation, is taking place with an eye to hopelessly outdated standards. The standards by which you overpay for minimum potential wiring.

2 circuits of wiring per room - for lighting and for sockets;
separate circuits directly to the dashboard for each powerful electrical appliance (such as an electric stove or oven);
separate circuit breaker in the panel for protection of each line.

By choosing the cable cross-section, the usual, run-in for decades, the standards are as follows (you can check it yourself by googling or talking with an electrician you know):

1.5 mm2 for lighting lines + automatic machine for 10A;
2.5 mm2 for socket lines + plus an automatic machine for 16A;
4 mm2 for powerful consumers + plus an automatic machine for 20A.

Simple, clear, verified. But outdated. By no means am I saying that you cannot do this - of course you can. The question is, why, if you can do it according to the mind, and not the old fashioned way? The next step is to deal with the calculation of wires "in a new way".

What is the best way to choose and calculate the cable: cross-section, length, brand?

First, by incorporating rational critical thinking. Mainly in order to analyze the real (and not theoretical, but in fact outdated) electricity consumption by modern household appliances and lamps.

As a prologue, I will name the main bonus: you will save on the purchase of a cable.

In extreme cases, do not overpay, but you will “eat” the fruits every day. Buy a kilometer of a thin wire or half a kilometer of a thick one - that's what it will do. Yes, there will be more automation in the dashboard, but this is not a significant increase in price. After all, this is not an RCD on all lines (I will talk about this in more detail below). Adding 10-15 low-value machines will not drastically affect the budget. Oh yes, and the box will need a little more roomy, which is also a trifle.

To begin with, the most revealing moment: let's talk about lighting.

We take it for granted that in most apartments and cottages it is already LED. With all the benefits that come with it, including super-economical consumption. And the above standardized cable cross-sectional indicators were developed for the hopelessly outdated, but half a century ago, they did not have a single competitor of gluttonous LONs. Isn't it significant: instead of 60W for LON, only 6-7W for LED!

So what's the point of persistently feeding a light bulb with 10 times less consumption with the same 1.5 mm2? Ok, let's not consider one light bulb, let's take for clarity an expensive-rich chandelier with a total consumption of 50W. Even for her, the cross-section is not what a "half-wheel", but also 0.75 mm2 assumes a decent margin of safety.

The check here is simple: use the formula proven for decades (this is what does not become obsolete) and generations of electricians:

I (A) = S (mm2) × 10

where I is the current strength, S is the required cable cross-section, 10 is just 10. I’ll add a note right away: practice has proven that this empirically derived formula differs from scientific calculations within a miniscule statistical error and has an iron right to exist.

For our magnificent (and by the standards of LED gluttonous) chandelier, the required cross-sectional area will be:

50W / 230V = 0.22A,
0.22A / 10 = 0.022mm2,
0.75mm2 / 0.022 = 34 times.

How do you like it? Even such an unusually thin wire 34 (!) Exceeds the actual need, and the usual 1.5mm2 for lighting lines is simply outrageous.

Once again, I note that these are approximate calculations, but they are not far from reality.

Why fight for a new approach and a thin wire? It’s not at all because of the compactness as such, it’s all the same to do it. And for the sake of significant savings. Because on every meter of cable you will throw off, and decently. For a bundle of 0.75mm2 cable, pay about 200 UAH. For "one and a half" - 6-7 times more. Yes, a thin cable will have to be bought up to several kilometers - and generously laid out with bundles. It happens that 10 km of wires are wound in an apartment, but these are thin wires.

What section to put on the 220 / 230V sockets.

At least for each more or less powerful electrical appliance, wind up a separate cable. Split system, washing machine, electric water heater ... Let the total be 20, 30 lines - this is not scary, but even good (remember about twists and connections, more precisely, that it is desirable to minimize them, and ideally avoid them). And for each electrical appliance, calculate the cross-section as close as possible. Moreover, standard sockets larger than 16 amperes will not pass anyway.

I will say more and running ahead: not all standard sockets will even pass 16 amperes. Even (!) If they say that they can. Here the question is about quality. In cheap Turkish or Chinese sockets, it is extremely rare to find really copper or at least brass as part of a contact group, because there, in fact, there is steel covered with paint with a tint of copper, and the possibilities are even less. And accordingly, leading an expensive thick cable to such an outlet simply does not make sense.

Often, in practice, situations when people are going to buy a good cable for an apartment (for example, from Odeskabel), but at the same time the sockets of a frank economy segment - they say, you can save on this. You can save some money, but the point of overpaying for the cable is immediately lost.

Real examples: cables are bought for 15 thousand hryvnyas, and sockets are gained for 1.5 thousand hryvnias. Chinese (despite the fact that the German would have cost 3000 UAH). Would it is wiser to do the opposite: lay a thinner cable and take German sockets... For the price, it would work out for that, but the result would be definitely cooler, more correct and more durable. It makes no sense to start a cable that will withstand 7kW per outlet, which will not even withstand 3kW. That is, this is money thrown away on the cable.

In addition, if there is a really powerful electrical appliance that requires an appropriate cable section (like an electric stove, if it wasn’t suddenly connected directly from the panel), then the socket to it will be special, power.

And the cable really needs 4mm2 there. And in other cases, there is no point in chasing the cross section. All the same, the socket, as a weak link, immediately limits the capabilities of the entire system.

By the way, we will definitely talk about the choice and installation of electrical accessories below, this is a really important question. One of the fundamental. In the meantime, let's continue about the selection of the cable.

In the current realities, electricity is actually consumed more than 3-4 decades ago. But this is mainly due to the increase in the amount of equipment in each individual household. At the same time, modern electrical appliances are not like Soviet ones, they are no longer so gluttonous in themselves (look at the marking of new washing machines and refrigerators - solid A + and A ++). The total consumption becomes more economical and smoothly distributed over time throughout the day, without sudden jumps. Not like decades ago, when your refrigerator turns on in your kitchen and the lights flash even at your neighbors. Those. total consumption has grown, but peak consumption has not. Due to the fact that the consumption is small, it makes no sense to make large gaps.

What's in numbers? We decided on the lighting - feel free to choose a cable with a cross section of 0.75 mm2.

If you ask: why is not 0.5mm2, after all, according to calculations, it is enough? But because the difference in price for these sections is not significant. At the same time, we take into account that on long routes at too small a cross section there can be significant losses. Plus 0.75mm2 is definitely enough for everything related to light, and with a decent margin for the future. Therefore, it is better to buy 0.75mm2, so as not to think and never remember.

Moving on to the sockets.

A rating of 10A or 16A is the value for which standard Schuko sockets are designed. Wire 3 × 2.5mm2 - what is prescribed to power them according to the classics of electrical installation. Let's check the relevance of these recommendations according to the same scheme: 2.5mm2 × 10 = 25A - so much the wire can pass through, but bad luck - the socket itself is limited to 16 amperes. By the way, this is 3.6kW (16A × 230V) of the power of the connected electrical appliance, let's also look at this indicator: 25A × 230V = 5.75kW - something is too powerful to connect to a regular outlet, isn't it? Indeed, in fact, the consumption of modern technology is quite modest. Take even from powerful ones - a storage electric water heater, also known as a boiler, for 1.5 kW: 1500W / 230V = 6.5A, 6.5 / 10 (the above formula) = 0.65mm2.

As you can see, even a fairly powerful technique with a solid supply is powered by the same "one and a half". A conclusion similar to the paragraph about lighting - wires with a cross section of 2.5 mm2 - an unreasonably expensive and unnecessary solution.

Life hack: plan several outlets that you will use only for charging mobile devices. Somewhere near the bedside table or in the corridor, whichever is more convenient for you. And boldly power them with a wire with a cross section of 1mm2, because the consumption there will be absolutely scanty. What for? Additional savings in the purchase of a cable: 4 times for each meter. The same for low-power consumers such as musical equipment.

Will the same "2.5mm2 for socket lines" be useful at all? To be honest, in reality it is only needed for direct connection of an oven or a powerful boiler (there are some). Such devices do not have a plug, the cable goes straight from the panel inside and is connected to a special terminal. For an electric kettle or an iron, it is enough to buy just a very high-quality 1.5mm2 cable, so that it probably corresponds to GOST. But, of course, to calm your soul, you can lay on circuits with sockets for connecting an iron, vacuum cleaner, electric kettle or heater 2.5mm2. To be sure.

About especially powerful consumers the recommendations remain relevant: for an electric oven or electric stove, it is better to execute separate circuits directly to the shield with a 4mm2 cable for a consumer with a power of up to 6-7kW or 6mm2 for 8-10kW. Three-core for single-phase, five-core for three-phase.

Here I will also make a footnote - even stoves and ovens are not always connected to 4mm2 or 6mm2, for some 2.5mm2 is enough for the eyes, here you need to read the instructions for a particular model.

And what about the brands of cable and its quantity?

In general, PVA is most often used in apartments (it is flexible and easy to fit) or VVG (cheaper, but tougher, therefore, it is more difficult to install). But, as you proceed with our differentiation plan, consider - on the lighting line, only PVA (or SHVVP) is suitable, because others are not thin enough... The same VVG has a minimum cross-section of 1.5mm2 (and we, as you remember, proved that the wire is thicker than 0.75mm2 for LED lamps, it makes no sense to lay it). On sockets depends rather on the preferences of the electrician, here we will do without categoricality.

Thus, you will determine which wires you need. And count the footage of each type according to those pencil lines drawn earlier. They are marked on what is from what, so you will not get confused. Only add another meter and a half for each circuit for input and connection of automation. So determine the layout according to the total needs of the cable of different cross-sections.

But where can you buy a cable that is not truncated, according to GOST, and is not a fake?

It is clear that it is not on the market. extremely high probability of getting fake. And it is often impossible to buy directly from the factory. Optimally with an official representative, preferably with a long-term presence on the market, because unfortunately there are still enough one-day online stores, although they are much less than 5 years ago. One of the official representatives, and there are not so many of them in fact, today is a specialized store of electrical engineering and cable products - AxiomPlus - where you can choose a cable according to detailed characteristics, and compare at the price of trusted suppliers (read: manufacturers' factories) and buy a good cable quality without fear for its authenticity.

Count - count, but how to lay? And what else is useful?

Most often they are laid on the ceiling or on the floor. But still, the first option is more often, because cable floor heating is popular in apartments and houses. That is, the wires go along the ceiling, and then go down the walls to the locations of sockets and switches. In this case, the cable on the ceiling is then covered with either drywall sheets or stretch ceilings. Along the walls, the cable route lies inside the groove, hidden under a layer of plaster.

Do you need additional corrugation?

Surely your electrician will say that you need to add corrugation for laying to the estimate. And here I would stop and speculate. I will say right away - the question "corrugation and its role in electrical wiring" draws on a separate topic with emotional reasoning. An ambiguous question, which is better to solve, guided by considerations:

standards and regulations,
expediency.

In fact, in the "Wiring Rules" the corrugation itself is not mentioned. It regulates how cables should be laid in different situations and conditions, at what distance the cable should be from the combustible surface, where and how it should be located. And that it should be specifically in the corrugation is not written.

That is, in some cases, simply by the fact of its presence, it allows you to lay the cable in accordance with the requirements of the standards. For example, the cable should be laid 2 cm from the surface. It is certainly possible to achieve this with the help of a corrugation - so that it hangs at a given distance, plus it does not bend or break. But by itself, it does not protect him from anything, except for a number of mechanical damage.

Perhaps, the main reason to lay the cable in the corrugation: if the pipes are hermetically sealed, then oxygen does not get inside. As a result, even if something happens to the cable inside, a spark will appear and a fire will occur, the oxygen present inside will instantly end, and self-extinguishing will occur. Sounds good, right? But keep in mind that the effect occurs only with hermetically sealed pipes. And in practice, more often "if only it was", they threw it, and everything looks more solid, the client is satisfied. And ask, what are they for? - 95% of electricians find it difficult to answer on the merits. Hear versions like: “well, it’s necessary that it be in the pipe”, “everyone does this”, “so beautiful”. So, if you are going to lay in pipes, then it is logical to seal the ends. In this case, it is imperative to ensure that the pipe is of good quality and without damage.

So home wiring is safe without the use of PVC corrugations when using a non-combustible cable (like the same VVG) and performing hidden wiring (in grooves under a layer of plaster).

It is more of a visual solution and light additional mechanical protection (for example, a gypsum plasterboard worker will accidentally hit with a knife and damage the insulation). And also easy change of the wire if necessary.

Life hack: if viewed in the context of mechanical protection, consider the option of cable channels. Purely for reasons of practicality. They are at least square, they are much easier to plaster in the walls than a round corrugation. They are accompanied by consumables such as corners, turns, tees, which facilitate installation. And for the sake of safety, this is the same (although, in truth, the cable channel is in fact more rigid and protects against mechanical damage better than a corrugated pipe). In terms of money, it is hardly more expensive with a cable channel.

Think about impulse switches.

Especially for large rooms, rooms with complex configurations, long corridors. If the apartment is one-room, small, then there is not much sense, but "master-master". It happens that they do it in odnushki too.

Why yes? This is a triple savings: on the cable, on the switches, on the installation. And it is also reliable, maintainable - if it breaks down, you can replace it with a screwdriver in five minutes. Not like a cross switch, where the floor of the repair needs to be redone in order to be replaced.

Impulse switches are no longer a rarity. The idea naturally becomes popular, and demand, accordingly, gives rise to supply. You will find them in the catalogs of European manufacturers of electrical accessories, and the impulse switch costs exactly the same as the usual one. You need to buy an impulse relay for it, which is installed in the shield, its price is quite affordable, about 200-300 UAH.

And, of course, there is a huge amount of made in China, but here you need to be more careful so as not to run into outright trash. That is, the price is already equal to the checkpoints, but the installation is easier and faster. As well as repair or replacement as needed. Moreover, you can put them without restrictions on the number - wherever it is convenient to use. The impulse relay and buttons allow you to create absolutely any combination of control of the lighting system. At least one zone of five-ten-fifteen places, at least five-ten-fifteen zones from one place. And there is no need to run around the apartment. For example, when leaving the house, by pressing one button near the front door, turn off the lights in all rooms.

But this is still a desirable, not a required element. Let's now go back to the really important object near the front door - the switchboard. His time has come.

How to choose and install an electrical panel.

You have probably already realized that the shield as a result will turn out to be much more voluminous than the boxes for 10 modules that have gone into the past. It is convenient to choose step by step according to the parameters.

The size- based on the total number of modules of all devices placed in the panel (read more below).

Life hack: be sure to provide a spare space on the DIN rail. This will help out a lot if in the future you have to install one or two machines (for example, on a new split system) or an additional RCD in the children's room. In general, in principle, the more spacious the box is inside, the more convenient the installation.

Material- plastic (generally more aesthetically pleasing and more convenient for an apartment) and metal.

Installation method- built into the wall or hinged. It is better to build in an apartment, this is the maximum compactness.

Life hack: if you are going to build into drywall, immediately buy special mounting feet for mounting in hollow walls, so as not to suffer with installation and not to order.

Design- do you want a transparent door or a blind door? Rely on your own understanding of convenience and aesthetics.

Someone wants to take a look at the voltage relay installed on the DIN rail (I'll tell you about it without fail) with an indication on the display and understand that everything is normal. To others, a white opaque door seems prettier. By the way, about white. Not white, in fact, one.

If you want something more interesting, you are welcome to the catalogs of European manufacturers. They make shields so pretty that they can be considered as a highlight of the interior. For example, in the Volta series from Hager there are performances in blue, metallic, anthracite, even with mirrored frames, under the poster. Or models, the door of which is easy to close with plaster or wallpaper to completely merge with the wall.

Life hack: If there are small curious children in the apartment (and they, in principle, are not curious?), A model of a shield with a lock will be very useful. Unlike a standard latch, it will securely block access to content.

Whichever box you choose in the end, be sure to mark each modular device in the dashboard - using a diagram (in some box models, a clip on the door is provided for storing it) or by marking with special stickers.

For lovers of versatility, constructiveness and compact solutions.

She promised to tell about an interesting solution. Appeared on the market hybrid fenders from "classic" European brands (Hager, Schneider Electric). What is their valuable feature: in addition to the DIN-rail, they have a circuit board for multimedia equipment. Imagine: you just hide the router inside the built-in box, and do not “decorate” a wall or cabinet in the corridor with it. These shields are well ventilated due to their well thought-out design. Using the Hager series of the popular Volta as an example:

the classic built-in box VU36UA for 36 modules will cost almost a thousand hryvnia,
hybrid VU36NWB with the same capacity, but also with perforated mounting panels - in one and a half thousand "kopecks" *.

* prices for electrical panels are also taken from the AxiomPlus website (by the way, the official partner of Hager) and are indicated at the time of publication of this material (September 2019).

That is, in the second case, you will pay 1.5 times more, but you will immediately receive a place in the main switchboard adapted for the installation of computer network equipment (elements of the "Smart House" system, alarm systems). And the maximum possible civilian appearance of the hallway.

What is necessary and what is desirable to put in the switchboard.

Required elements for a home electrical panel: circuit breakers(for short circuit protection) and RCD(from leakage currents). Select the machines according to the calculated value of the rated current for each line. Either exactly the same load as expected on the circuit, or the rating next up in the ruler.

For example, take the water heater we have considered. The line for connecting it to 6.5A (we counted above) will require protection with a 10A circuit breaker: 6A is already small, and the next one is in the “ten” gradation (“eight” is a very rare denomination and is produced in industrial series). See the entire line of possible denominations in the online catalog (it is also convenient to choose there).

Advice: you cannot take the face value of the slot machine "for growth". The stock in this case is not just unnecessary, but harmful. The protection should work by disconnecting the emergency line BEFORE the cable starts to warm up.

RCD for protection against leakage currents, install at least an input(for the whole apartment) with a leakage current sensitivity of 100mA. It works as a fire-fighting one (paired with a common lead-in circuit breaker). In a small apartment, it is permissible to put 30mA on the input, it will work both from a fire and from an electric shock.

One more for the bathroom - preferably with a sensitivity to leakage currents of 10mA (plus the same for the children's room, if there is one or is planned). At 30mA in the bathroom is also allowed. If the budget is freer, then use an even more reliable option: for each room, a separate 30mA RCD (except for the bathroom and the nursery, we do not change the indicators here), and then you will do without an introductory one.

Advice: keep the organization simple and clear at a first glance with the automation markings in the dashboard. This will help you instantly navigate the "stuffing".

A sensible solution is to supply a voltage relay to protect the equipment.

But only in case of occasional dips and surges of voltage in the sockets (if the problems are permanent, the relay will work in the "non-stop" mode). The relay will quickly de-energize the line in case of emergency voltage values (i.e., going beyond the safe limits for household appliances specified in the instructions). And it will resume power after the situation has stabilized.

This opportunity is especially valuable for compressor equipment (refrigerators, air conditioners). Structurally, choose for the whole apartment (for installation in a distribution box on a DIN rail) or for one electrical appliance - most often the socket version for the refrigerator is chosen.

You need to choose a relay at face value: according to the sum of the powers of the connected electrical appliances. For example, equipment (potentially switched on at a time) consumes 11 kW in total, determine the nominal value using the formula from the school physics course:

I = U / R = 13000W / 230V = 47.8A

then select the relay in the dashboard for the nearest value of 50A. It is better to look firsthand at the models offered for sale in order to understand the dimensions. So, relays for 50A suitable for our example occupy 3 modules in width. This is important to know in order not to overshoot with the capacity of the switchboard.

Important: for one phase - one relay, for three phases - three single-phase relays.

To prevent a spontaneous force majeure, put a spark gap.

I advise you to put surge protection in the shield (in other words, from lightning). The value of this device is that it minimizes the risks of lightning overvoltage (which, by the way, cannot be dealt with by any circuit breaker). This is especially important for residents of private houses, but in the apartment it is better to overclock and install the most budgetary category D arrester in your dashboard (price tag within $ 10). After all, the lightning protection system from builders often does not stand up to criticism.

Important: Set to zero and per phase. For a single-phase network, a two-pole arrester is needed, for a three-phase network, a 4-pole one.

At the same time, do electrical fittings.

When you know how many sockets and switches will be in the apartment, as well as their location, feel free to start looking for them. As for the installation, you need to start by preparing the holes for installing the socket boxes (standard depth 45 mm or "XXL" - 60 mm, if it is supposed to have a wire assembly).

To install several mechanisms in a row, choose ready-made socket boxes for 2-4 places or modular, easily interconnected - consult with your master.

You probably already know, but let me remind you. Modern electrical accessories are structurally produced in two versions: assembled (economy segment) and collapsible (the vast majority of European series). The collapsible set is a mechanism with a metal frame, attached to a wall socket, and a separate decorative frame to it.

So, start to "bring beauty" and install decorative frames only after finishing the finishing work - on the finished walls with wallpaper or painting.

I strongly advise families with children to choose sockets with protection - with curtains (the holes are closed by default, and they open only when you press both at the same time. And pressing the same force, as when turning on the pins of the plug. There are also options with covers.

In addition to the standard ones, consider the location of special multimedia and USB sockets, as well as for the thermostat.

What to consider in advance if you are planning a heated floor.

In apartment buildings, water heating is prohibited. But with an electric one, choose from three options:

heating cable - thoroughly in a cement screed (minus - it will eat a height of at least 2-4 cm);
heating mats - will cost a little more than cable and mesh, but easier to install and more compact in height;
heating film is the thinnest solution (from 0.4 mm) and the only possible one if it is not possible to raise the floor level.

The benchmark is simple in terms of power. For additional heating in order to increase comfort, 100-120 W / m2 is sufficient. Connect complete with temperature sensor and thermostat. Connect directly from the panel to a separate machine, no surprises here. Place the block of outlets on this system; place the thermostat in it under the frame.

Is it possible to make a backup power supply in the apartment?

Yes, and this is done using an uninterruptible power supply. Let's talk about how to choose, connect, what to power, how long the resource will last. The beauty of the UPS is that due to the built-in batteries, it will continue to operate the equipment connected to it for a certain period of time. On what - depends on the power of the UPS itself and how much you "hung" on it.

Usually, backup power is done centrally at the level of an apartment building - new high-rise buildings are connected and put into operation with backup power. But don't be confused: backup power is not self-contained. Those. power from the neighboring area so that people do not have to sit in the dark for a long time.

But the issue of backup power supply in a single apartment is rather difficult. I will clarify - difficulties arise when it comes to the autonomous power supply of the entire apartment. At least, because the UPS for the apartment is very large.

So, the LogicPower LPY B PSW 7000VA UPS for 5 kW of output power with dimensions of 0.2x0.3x0.5 m weighs 31 kg, and models with a capacity of about 10 kW and even long lengths - up to 0.7 (and more) meters in one of the sizes. You understand that this is an oversized, weighty, and also noisy device. More suitable for a private house, where it is convenient to put it somewhere in the utility room. And in the apartment, such a colossus will clearly become a foreign object. Plus, it is also expensive: the same option for 5000 W will cost from 20 thousand UAH. and higher.

Why not a generator? You can read the subtleties and nuances in the article. But let's face it: the chances are too high that vibration and noise will disturb both you and your neighbors. And the neighbors are nervous, they can turn to law enforcement agencies. I’ll say right away that the idea is good in theory, but in practice it is not enough and is difficult to implement.

But it is still possible to make a backup power supply already at the initial stage of the repair. Just approach the question from the point of view of maximum rationality: What is most lacking when the electricity is cut off? Isn't it lighting in the dark? Let's power it up. Then, in a situation of an accident, there will always be light in your apartment, without flashlights and candles, and this is already a plus to stop a hundred points for the comfort of life.

How to choose an uninterruptible power supply "to the light", I will show with an example. Let's say we are talking about a kopeck piece with a total power consumption of 80 W for lighting (we take it for granted that LED lamps are installed everywhere). We take into account that all the bulbs at the same time, in principle, never light up, and we are guided that a third or half of the power will be used, i.e. maximum 30-40W (and then, if you use it "in a big way.") For such a situation, an inexpensive 500-750W UPS is sufficient. Let's see what he is capable of in fact.

For example, a LogicPower LP 850VA UPS with 510 W of output power and a full load runtime of 10-15 minutes is enough for: 510 W / 40 W = 12.75. That's 12.75 x 10 minutes = 127.5 minutes. A full 2 hours of autonomous lighting! And this is with a completely free mode of use. If you shrink to a couple of bulbs, then half a day is enough.

Life hack: no matter how tempting it is to connect a refrigerator to the UPS, there is no point in this. Even with the bonus 20-30 minutes, you will not fundamentally solve the situation with saving borscht and sausage. All that remains is to rely on a prompt solution to the problem on the part of utilities.

Another task for which the UPS is indispensable is the rescue of the computer and the data on it in case of a line failure. It is highly advisable to provide a reserve of autonomous power supply if you often work with a PC (or perform other operations such as assault by tanks of enemy positions). Moreover, it will turn out to be quite budgetary: if install only on a computer, in most cases, a UPS with a capacity of up to 300-500W is enough... But look at the capacity according to your needs - you will have time to correctly complete the work in 3-4 minutes, and in order to calmly finish the work task being performed, choose for 30-40 minutes (look at the indicator "autonomy at full load".

At the finish line - a new level of comfort and safety.

Now you will at least be able to speak the same language with an electrician, check his recommendations and estimates with your own calculations, and with a high probability you will make the wiring in the apartment really “for yourself”. As a maximum, abandoning outdated calculation and installation methods and building electrical wiring in the apartment according to the proposed algorithm, you get decent bonuses:

reliability and durability of the home power supply system,
convenience of daily life as a result of detailed differentiation of lines - you can disconnect any outlet or lamp individually, otherwise without losing comfort,
saving money, effort and time (complementary parameters, isn't it?),
invulnerability of equipment against airborne lightning,
reserve of autonomous power supply for lighting and PC.

Do not forget that you cannot save on the number and quality of the sockets, otherwise they will pull down the potential of the entire system. But now you know how to safely save on the cable, rationally calculating its cross section. Another important point: do not give in to the impulse to save money on the purchase of elements of your wiring by buying it on the market or in questionable shops. The risk of running into a fake is too high, and the consequences of automatic machines or RCDs that did not work on time are very deplorable. Take the trouble to find officials, you cannot save on safe electricity.

Of course, you don't have to bother and do everything in a standard way, the old fashioned way. But overpay for absolutely unnecessary (read - useless) thickness of copper in cables for lighting and sockets. Plus you will get a "scanty" shield for 5-6 machines, which is inconvenient.

Unfortunately, so far the percentage of projects with progressive wiring is more than modest. Neither homeowners, nor, most regrettably, electricians have matured. And one of the biggest difficulties today is to find a master who does not just act according to an ingrained template (albeit with full responsibility and with hands from the right place), but keeps his finger on the pulse of electrical and lighting technologies. But there are no hopeless situations, and when repairs are to be made, there are at least two ways out:

hire a real pro “for all the money in the world” and set a clear task for him to be up-to-date with the latest technology;
independently figure out the subtleties and nuances (the beginning has already been made, since you have finished reading this article). To explain to the electrician what you want on your fingers. And then follow closely each stage of the dream project. In other words - to stand above the soul and control every day what is done and how.

I hope, after reading, you were interested in trying to implement a project using the new opportunities and potential of modern lighting and electrical engineering. Easy and quick repair and comfortable life for you!

It is customary to do any work, including the installation of electrical wiring, observing a certain sequence. Thanks to this, you will save both your time and resources.

And the question of altering any group of wiring in a room or the entire apartment as a whole will no longer stand even in the long term. Let's take a closer look at the order of work, adhering to which you will ultimately get a high-quality result.

Electrician before or after plastering

First of all, remember that all electrical installation is done in an amicable way after plastering. Therefore, first the finishers work, then the electricians come in.

In extreme situations, you have to do the opposite, but then you will face a lot of problems that could initially have been avoided.

Electrical markings

Any quality work starts with accurate markings. Most often, professionals use laser levels and axis builders for this.

With their help, you can quickly and accurately mark out the centers for all the socket outlets in the room. It would seem that a couple of millimeters will not play a decisive role here. What's so great if one block at the beginning of the room is slightly higher than the other at the end.

However, very often wallpapers with horizontal or vertical stripes come across in apartments. And on these stripes it will be clearly visible when the socket is not installed evenly.

The same can be said for the seams on the tiles.

Therefore, put all the socket outlets in the room in the same plane. The recommended distances are as follows:

for sockets - 30cm from the floor

for light switches - 60-90cm

everything above the countertop, in the bathroom or in the kitchen - 110cm

After all the centers of the socket boxes are marked, then proceed to the marking of the points of installation of the lamps, both on the walls and on the ceiling.

At the same time, you can mark the places of suspension of plasterboard structures. Since in the future, when all the trains and corrugations are on the ceiling, it will not be very convenient to mark fasteners for drywall.

But with all this it is worth bothering if you will also mount the structures.

After all this, proceed to putting marks under the corrugation fasteners. The most important thing is that they do not interfere with each other.

Usually it takes a full working day to properly markup, even with the use of modern measuring instruments. Set yourself up for just such a period in advance. You will be in a hurry and it will certainly come out sideways for you during further installation.

Drilling the socket outlets

Next, the noisy and dusty part of the electrical work begins - drilling and chipping.

In order to minimize the amount of dust, construction vacuum cleaners are used.

In addition, each tool in this case must have a branch with a pipe or a dust extraction device.

Small hammer drill, medium, large, wall chaser, all these tools must have dust extraction, otherwise there will be no sense from your vacuum cleaner.

There are also special attachments that fit on a regular grinder and all the work takes place with almost complete dust removal. You can purchase both expensive models from the renowned companies Hilti or DeWalt, and absolutely affordable ones, for example, Mechanic AirDuster.

First, the centers of the socket boxes are drilled using a d-6mm drill. Then, based on the material of the walls, a tool is selected for arranging the niches of the socket boxes.

This could be:

chaser with a saw cut 60mm deep

Wall slitting

After the manufacture of niches for sockets and switches, gating for cable lines begins. You need to do it in this sequence.

Otherwise, if you first grind, and then try to make niches, the center drill will lead you into the gutter.

The easiest way to cut a groove is to use a laser level. Sometimes several lasers are involved for this work at the same time.

For example, if you have two grooves to go down to the socket block - one is power, the other is low-current, then it will be faster to set two laser levels and, without going down the ladder, cut both parallel straight lines from top to bottom at once.

When all the niches and grooves are ready, the premises are cleaned and all the socket boxes are installed.

Next comes the sighting of the corrugation clips on the ceiling. This is the easiest and fastest way to do this with.

If it is not there, then d-6mm holes are drilled with an ordinary perforator and the clips are mounted on the nails dowel.

Is it possible to lay cable lines without corrugation and how it all can end, read in a separate article.

You only need to use gray PVC corrugation. Unlike other multi-colored species, it does not support combustion. Its flammability class is A1.

In addition to being incombustible, the corrugation protects the cable from mechanical damage. It can be stepped on, lightly hit with a hammer, hooked with the sharp edge of the profile.

Of course, you will damage the shell itself, but nothing will happen to the cable. Well, among other things, installation in a corrugated sleeve looks more aesthetically pleasing.

In corrugation, the cable is laid with equal success both along the wall and along the floor and ceiling. True, in all cases there are a number of significant differences.

Number of groups by room

Where and how many cable routes do you need to run? As for the living quarters (hall, bedroom), there used to be only two lines.

Today, three have become practically the norm:

sockets

lighting

plus air conditioning or other powerful equipment

In the children's room, you can get a separate wire for the outlet on the TV. This is done so that the child can safely be in this room, even without your supervision.

If your child is busy watching cartoons, then the rest of the sockets in the nursery are turned off in the switchboard. At the same time, you will be absolutely calm that the curious child will not climb anywhere.

It turns out that at least two cables are brought into the dwelling:

lighting

sockets

On average, three:

lighting

air conditioning

For the nursery - four.

As for the kitchen, the situation here is slightly different. The electricity consumption in the kitchen is the highest in the entire apartment.

Among the powerful and critical devices for which a separate cable goes, the following stand out:

washing machine

dryer

microwave oven

fridge

Also, separate lines are started from the panel for each block of outlets above the work surface. That is, if you have 2-3 blocks of socket boxes on the working surface, then a separate group should go to each of these blocks.

Why is this done? At the moment, kitchen electrical appliances are very energy-intensive, and in order to prevent the machine from knocking out and the contacts to warm up while using the bread maker with a kettle and toaster, so many separate lines are initially laid.

Thanks to this, you can safely use all the necessary electronic devices and not be afraid that something will burn or melt somewhere. This is especially true on holidays, when cooking in the kitchen is in full swing.

It turns out that at least 10 cable lines need to be brought into the kitchen at least.

The cable cross-section must be selected based on the following recommendations:

for low-power devices and lighting - copper cable with a cross section of 3 * 1.5mm2

for sockets and air conditioning - 3 * 2.5mm2

oven - 3 * 4mm2

electric stove, hob, instantaneous water heater - 3 * 6mm2

Cable brand VVGnG-Ls or NYM.

If we sum up all the above routes, then it turns out that on average about 30 power lines start up for a two, three-room apartment.

These are the realities of today.

As for the weak point, two twisted pairs of UTP or FTP cables are connected to each access point, where there will be the Internet or a TV set.

Plus don't forget the shielded TV cable.

It can also be started directly or provided with a separate television outlet. Thanks to her, your video equipment will not be tied to any one place.

Connection in junction boxes

When all the routes have been routed, the turn comes to the connection of wires in the junction boxes.

Since, according to the PUE, there must be access to the junction boxes, it is not recommended to make them on the ceiling. Also, boxes embedded flush with the walls do not look beautiful in modern renovation.

Therefore, the best option is to use special in-depth socket boxes, in which all the switching is performed. Most electricians use standard 45mm deep socket outlets.

Individual installers choose deeper options - 60mm.

However, there are even wider examples, for example, from the Kaiser company. They are called - a junction box for electronics Kaiser 1068-02.

Often, in order to leave a sufficient supply of wire, even in an ordinary deepened socket, there is not enough space. And this box perfectly accommodates all the wires, plus the connecting terminals.

All switching in them is done at the top. Then the whole thing is putty and the usual socket is left.

For subsequent access to the connections, you just need to remove the wiring equipment (socket, switch), get the plug, pull out the supply of wire and carry out any manipulations with the veins.

If you do not have a single block, but a double or triple one, then here you can apply in-depth options up to 60mm.

Internal jumpers in such blocks can be dismantled. Due to this, the supply of wire that remains in such a box sometimes reaches 30 cm.

Switching wires inside can be done in several ways:

soldering

pre-twist welding

crimping

clamp Wago

In this case, it is not recommended to use a loop in the outlet lines. Also, all socket lines are looped back. That is, an additional wire is pulled from the first outlet to the very last.

As a rule, do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment is carried out during repairs with the replacement of existing electrical equipment. Installation of wiring can be done by a person who has an idea of the methods and types of electrical work, skills in working with materials and tools, and also understands electrical networks.

Design

The basic requirements for electrical wiring are presented in SNiP and PUE (rules for electrical installations). Compliance with these standards is very important in apartments to ensure their fire safety.

So, before the wiring is mounted in the apartment with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with how it works. As a rule, the wiring diagram is standard, there is nothing complicated in it.

Main elements

The most important element in the apartment wiring diagram is the intra-apartment board. It is to him from the main power panel located on the landing that the electric cable is directed, passing through the fuse, along the way.

It is equipped with an electric meter, residual current devices and several circuit breakers. All these elements are assembled into a single unit and secured by means of a fastening rail and an auxiliary bus (one or more).

The number of internal power lines will depend on the number of rooms in the apartment. It is also affected by the power required to operate some devices. They may require an additional dedicated line. In most cases, there are two wires: "zero" and "phase", in some cases a third is added - "ground".

Payment

Do-it-yourself wiring in the apartment can be done after certain calculations. They are produced in two main ways:

According to the formula: P: U = I, where the current is directly proportional to the power and inversely proportional to the voltage in the network.
This option is much simpler than the previous one. It is necessary to separately add up the electricity consumed by the devices on the same line. About 10% should be added to the resulting number.

Channel search

In a panel house, as a rule, the electrical wiring is hidden, namely, hidden in a gate or behind drywall. Therefore, do-it-yourself wiring in an apartment should begin by searching for channels. First, let's find out what a channel in the walls is designed for hidden wiring. In most cases, this is a pipe made of polymer material, having a depth of about 30-50 mm, equipped with corrugations in places for outward and rounding.

Location of outlets

In old Soviet apartments, electrical outlets were usually located wherever needed. Sometimes at the height of an outstretched arm, and at someone at the level of 1 meter from the floor surface.

Today the correct location is considered to be 400 mm from the floor level. At first this may seem strange, but there is logic in this: such sockets behind furniture are almost invisible, when connected they are closer to the target, you will not accidentally touch them, and most importantly, such a wiring in an apartment, made with your own hands, consumes much less cable. Perhaps the only caveat is that when you connect a vacuum cleaner or an iron, you have not to jump, but to bend over.

If you continue this logic, then you can install an electrical outlet near the baseboard. In this case, the minimum height poses a risk of water ingress when flooding or cleaning floors. That is why, when installing new wiring in an apartment with your own hands, according to the standard, the sockets should be located at a height of 400 mm from the floor level.

Cable routing options

Self-assembly of electrical wiring in an apartment is not an easy task. However, in this case, you will be absolutely sure that everything is done correctly. There are three main ways to lay electrical cables:

For plastering.
In a plastic box.

Any of the listed options is considered correct, so the choice is yours. At the same time, it is worth remembering that it is important to have an exact idea of where the cable goes, otherwise any hammered nail can cause the TV to turn off (in the best case scenario), in the worst case - an electric shock.

What is the best way to conduct the wiring?

Concealed wiring is carried out inside walls, under decorative trim or other decorative structural elements. Do-it-yourself wiring in the apartment under drywall is considered the safest, since it is reliably protected from any mechanical damage. However, this installation option is the most time consuming and requires the ability to handle several instruments at the same time.

The combined option of wiring installation includes its installation in boxes and skirting boards with a cable channel. This method combines the advantages of open and closed gaskets at the same time - safety and aesthetic appearance.

Repair or replacement?

If you suddenly began to smell the smell of burnt plastic, noticed sparks from the junction box or the outlet began to get very hot during use, then it’s time to find a project for electrical wiring in your apartment and start repairing it immediately.

This phenomenon has many reasons, from standard physical wear and tear to the elementary obsolescence of the power supply system, due to the appearance of modern electrical appliances in your household.

The electrical wiring, the scheme of which has long outlived itself, is carried out in several main stages:

The first step is to find out the number of required changes.
Calculate the amount of material and equipment required for installation and carry out their subsequent purchase.
Next, the premises are prepared by dismantling the old obsolete electrical wiring.
Laying a new cable and then testing it for normal operation.

Another reason that can serve to repair the old electrical wiring in the apartment is the lack of elementary grounding. Of course, its absence is not critical, however, it is necessary for the safe and correct operation of many modern electrical devices.

Tools required for installation

If you decide that the wiring of electricity in the apartment with your own hands should be done, then you should purchase a serviceable and reliable tool. Insulation should not be damaged in the places of contact between metal and body. At a minimum, you need the following:

Tester.
Perforator.
Nippers.
Pliers.
Screwdriver.

Installation materials

As soon as the schematic diagram of the wiring is ready, the power of each individual branch has been calculated, it will be possible to proceed with the acquisition of the necessary material.

Try not to buy too cheap products and cables with a reduced cross-section. So, in order for the wiring in the apartment with your own hands (photo below) to be done, you will need the following:

Sockets and switches.
Copper cross-section wires.
Installation boxes in the form of plastic cups.
Additional insulation if necessary.
Clips, if you plan to do wiring in the apartment with your own hands on the ceiling.
Connection terminals for cable.

Cabling

As soon as you purchase all the necessary materials and equipment, you can go directly to the installation.

In an old apartment, you need to dismantle the old wiring.
In pre-marked places, recesses are drilled for junction boxes and socket outlets.
Further, in the walls, we groove a groove to all switches and sockets for the subsequent laying of wires. We put a cable of the appropriate section in them and fix it with dowel-nails.
After that, the grooves and holes must be putty.
In the hollows of the slabs and on the ceiling, wires are laid for the lighting system.
As soon as the wiring in the apartment with your own hands (diagrams below) is mounted, all lighting fixtures, switches and sockets are installed.

Calculating the value of machines

In order to properly carry out the wiring installation, it is necessary to determine the ratings of the machines installed in the switchboard. To do this, you need to sum up the power of all devices that are planned to be connected to it. Then convert kilowatts to cotton wool, and then calculate the current strength using the formula: P: U = I.

There are the following line of machines: 6A, 10A, 16A, 20A, 25A, 32A, 40A, 50A and 63A. Thus, the value of the selected machine should be greater than the value you received.

Installation and connection of the electrical panel

Directly in the electrical panel, the distribution of electricity is carried out into groups:

For lighting.
To the sockets.
Other equipment.

The shield is fixed to the wall using dowel-nails, and then outgoing wiring and a supply cable are laid to it. After that, the supply cable must be stripped. The external insulation is removed from it to the required length, then the cable is inserted into the shield, where it is connected to the input machine.

A bus is installed in the upper part of the electrical panel, to which the neutral wire is connected. In a similar way, a bus is mounted on the lower bar, a wire is connected to it, which leads to a protective ground.

Conclusion

Thus, after going through all the stages - from purchasing the necessary equipment and materials, laying the cable to installing and connecting the electrical panel - do-it-yourself electrical wiring will be done in the apartment (the diagram is presented above).

The consistency, reliability, uninterrupted operation and continuity of the electrical system as a whole directly depend on professional installation, the quality of components and materials, compliance with all rules and regulations, as well as the correctness and literacy of all accompanying calculations. This is a very responsible and serious matter, if you have any doubts, then it is better to entrust this work to specialists for whom everything related to electricity is a profession.

Many houses still have electrical wiring from the Soviet era, which has long failed to meet modern safety requirements. It was intended for only 4 kW, while now, when designing, it is required to calculate the wiring for 10 kW and more. New cables and wires can be routed, but the work is time consuming and complex. Installation of electrical wiring in a private house and apartment is done by hand only when a clear plan is drawn up and there is step-by-step instructions.

DIY wiring installation

Replacing the wiring

If the electrical wiring in the apartment with your own hands is made of aluminum wire, its service life will be no more than 20 years. Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring with the laying of new lines is possible only when the apartment is being renovated.

First of all, you need to think about the power and the number of devices. The layout of the lighting system, sockets and junction boxes depends on many factors, in particular on how the furniture, windows and doors are located in the apartment. An accurate wiring diagram must be created. The stages of work should be as follows:

Electrical wiring design: drawing up a diagram; selection of brands and cross-sections of wires, protective devices and illumination of each room.
Shtroblenie walls; laying of wiring; connection of cores in junction boxes; installation of an apartment panel, installation of automatic devices in it and connection of an external network cable; checking the wiring.
Installation of socket outlets, sockets and lamps; connection of household appliances that do not contain sockets.

Wiring project

The comfort and safety of using electrical appliances depends on a quality project.

Scheme development

Do-it-yourself wiring can be done with high quality only when there is a power supply diagram for the apartment.

House power supply diagram

In the figure, the external wiring in the entrance panel is highlighted with a dotted line: grounding, main machine and RCD. Not a single power supply scheme for a house or apartment is complete without an electricity consumption meter (E).

The phase and neutral wires are crossed out with two dashes. Lay the protective conductor separately. Three-phase input is indicated by three dashes. Group machines are located in the dashboard. Separate lines with protection are made to the bathroom, electric stove and heater. You can choose the RCD brand at your discretion.

In addition to the power supply circuit, the wiring is mounted independently when there is an electrical circuit that is superimposed on the apartment plan and includes the following elements:

switches;
sockets;
lamps;
junction boxes;
apartment shield;
conclusions for connecting electrical equipment: forced ventilation systems, air conditioners, ovens, etc.;
the location of the wiring through the rooms.

The figure below shows a typical wiring project.

Electrification scheme for a two-room apartment

The wiring diagram determines all repairs for the following reasons:

any competent repair can and should be done with a change in the wiring;
subsequent work will not allow changing anything in the electrical part;
high-quality repair provides for the availability of effective lighting and convenient location of sockets, switches and electrical appliances.

If the wiring is correct, there will be no carriers, extension cords or power adapters on the floor. When the repair is done correctly, there should be no mobile electricity transfer devices in the apartment. An exception is connection to power tool sockets.

If we consider the distribution of outlets in rooms, then the installation plan for the most part is chosen very approximately and not always correctly. It is best to lead them to different ends of the room. In this case, it is necessary to draw up a plan for the location of electrical equipment and furniture in advance so that sockets and switches, which need constant access, are not obstructed. If this does not happen, it means that the wiring is correct and the outlets are being used optimally. In this case, you will have to lay new wires over the expensive wall decoration.

A TV requires at least two sockets, since it will require additional set-top boxes: digital or satellite, as well as video players.

For the computer and all the equipment necessary for it, you need to install at least three sockets. Their location from the floor in height is now 30-40 cm. Thanks to this, the rosette is not visible from the table or sofa, which is aesthetically pleasing and practical. This means that the old openings will have to be bricked up and new ones made, and a channel must be ditched to them.

The maximum energy consumption occurs in the kitchen. Separate cables must be routed to the electric oven, microwave oven and washing machine, since the power of each electrical appliance exceeds 1.5 kW.

An RCD is connected to each of these devices.

The work area requires an entire block of outlets, as the number of auxiliary electrical equipment grows every year. For a small kitchen, two sockets will be enough, since many appliances will not fit there. It is convenient to place them above the tables so that you can easily turn them on. You also need to make sockets for electric ignition of gas burners and an additional exhaust fan.

The refrigerator only needs one socket, to which you can easily connect. If any stationary electrical appliance is built into a cabinet, then it is convenient to use a separate automatic machine located in the control panel. This will be a reliable guarantee that the connections will not be short-circuited when water enters.

The design transformation plan should not negatively affect the electrical safety of the premises. In an unforeseen situation, designers will never be to blame. If the wiring is done incorrectly, the person who had to lay it is responsible for this.

Wire selection

Wires and cables are laid in walls (hidden wiring) or in ducts and pipes (open). The cabling is allowed to be made open, but they are more often placed behind partitions or in auxiliary rooms.

The most used cable for home wiring is VVG or VVGng (less often PUNP and NYM).

It is better to make the connection to the floor panel with NYM cable, as it is more reliable in terms of fire safety. Despite the high cost, it is often used as a power cable when installing electrical wiring in a private house and apartment. It will not prevent them from replacing the cheap and fire hazardous VVG input, for example, in a new building.

VVGng cable does not spread combustion due to the use of refractory plastic compound. It is convenient to use for laying if it has a flat shape.

PUNP is the cheapest flat wire with 2-3 cores. It has insulation that loses its properties from heating. It is not recommended to include it in a decision plan for home electrics.

It is better to make the internal wiring of the shield with wires PV2, PV3 and PV4 with a diameter of 4 mm. To install the wiring, you will need plastic boxes, clamps, corrugated hoses and junction boxes. It is advisable to purchase skirting boards with cable channels.

The entire load of an apartment or house falls on the lead-in cable. Its cross section is determined depending on the total power of all electricity consumers. Multiplying it by the utilization factor - 0.75, we find the power consumption. It is also necessary to take into account the reactive power that is consumed by the washing machine motor. For this, its power is divided by the factor cos φ = 0.85. It should be borne in mind that the water heater in the washing machine is an active and significantly dominant load. If fluorescent lamps are used, their reactive power is also taken into account (cos φ = 0.8).

When doing electrical wiring in a house with your own hands, you should take into account the reactive load, here it is much more than in an apartment: asynchronous motors of machine tools and pumps (cos φ = 0.85), welding transformer (cos φ = 0.5-0.7) , power tools.

Having established the total power in each circuit, according to the table, you can select a wire or cable of a suitable section. In this case, a reserve is made for possible additional connections in the future.

Table for selecting the cross-section of a copper conductor by power consumption or current

Section, sq. mm	Core diameter, mm	Power / current
		One wire PV-1 or PV-3, kW / A	Two wires PV-1 or PV-3 when laid together, kW / A	Three wires PV-1 or PV-3 when laid together, kW / A	Four wires PV-1 or PV-3 when laid together, kW / A	One two-	One three- core cable VVG, PVS or PUNGP, kW / A
0.5	0.79	2,2 / 10	1,98 / 9	1,76 / 8	1,54 / 7	1,76 / 8	1,54 / 7
0.75	0.97	2,86 / 13	2,64 / 12	2,42 / 11	2,2 / 10	2,42 /11	2,2 / 10
1	1.13	3,3 / 15	3,08 / 14	2,86 / 13	2,64 / 12	2,86 / 13	2,64 / 12
1.5	1.38	4,4 / 20	3,74 / 17	3,3 / 15	3,08 / 14	3,52 / 16	2,86 / 13
2.5	1.78	5,94 / 27	5,28 / 24	4,84 / 22	4,84 / 22	4,84 / 22	4,18 / 19
4	2.25	7,92 / 36	7,48 / 34	6,82 / 31	5,94 / 27	6,16 / 28	5,28 / 24
6	2.76	10,12 / 46	9,02 / 41	8,14 / 37	7,7 / 35	7,7 / 35	6,6 / 30
10	3.57	15,4 / 70	13,2 / 60	12,1 / 55	9,9 / 45	11 / 50	9,9 / 45
16	4.51	19,8 / 90	16,5 / 75	15,4 / 70	14,3 / 65	15,4 / 70	13,2 / 60
25	5.64	27,5 / 125	22 / 100	19,8 / 90	17,6 / 80	19,8 / 90	16,5 / 75
35	6.67	33 / 150	26,4 / 120	24,2 / 110	22 / 100	24,2 / 110	19,8 / 90
50	7.98	41,8 / 190	36,3 / 165	33 / 150	29,7 / 135	30,8 / 140	26,4 / 120
70	9.44	52,8 / 240	44 / 200	40,7 / 185	36,3 / 165	38,5 / 175	34,1 / 155
95	11	63,8 / 290	53,9 / 245	49,5 / 225	44 / 200	47,3 / 215	41,8 / 190
120	12.36	74,8 / 340	61,6 / 280	56,1 / 255	50,6 / 230	57,2 / 260	48,4 / 220

Protective equipment is matched to the cable. If it can withstand a current of 25 A, then the RCD or the machine is set at 16 A.

The capacities of the electricity consumption meter and the maximum consumption of electrical appliances must match each other, otherwise the system will be de-energized. In the characteristics of the meter, it is indicated for what energy consumption it is designed.

Lighting selection

Illumination is measured in lux (lm / m2). The figure below shows the norms for the illumination of the premises.

Illumination standards for residential premises

When the electrical wiring is done in the apartment, it is necessary to include the possibility of using additional lighting in the work plan. In a bedroom or living room, it is used to highlight interior details and zoning rooms. It has nothing to do with lighting standards, but sockets with convenient access must be installed for it. In the kitchen, lighting is done in cupboards, as well as for the work and dining areas. The bathroom should be light in the places where the washing machine is located or near the mirror. Switches and sockets are used with moisture protection.

Wiring

The plan for laying hidden wiring provides for its placement in grooves or under plaster. It is fixed with plastic clamps every 0.4-0.5 m. For new junction boxes, recesses are prepared and installed using alabaster. They also partially use the old ones if they are on the way of the route. External wiring is placed in cable ducts.

The gasket is made strictly horizontally and vertically. Then there will be less chance of getting into the wire with a self-tapping screw when drilling holes in the wall.

The ends of the cores inserted into the box are stripped and connected as required by the diagram. It is advisable to make connections using terminal blocks, soldering or crimping. The twist is considered a temporary joint, but it can be further modified.

The entire electrical circuit and how the wiring will work in a private house or apartment depends on the switchboard. It is placed near the front door. If the wall is made of plasterboard, choose the built-in version of the shield, and on the reinforced concrete one, install the outer one. The location is done at a low height (about 1.5 m). Fastening of the shield is made on dowel-nails or self-tapping screws. Placement of the meter in the dashboard is not required, since it must be installed at the entrance, and in a private house - on the pole of the external power network.

You can buy a flap in a store when you know how much equipment you need to put inside, while leaving a spare space. The standard shield contains DIN-rail mounting points, into which all electrical equipment can be easily inserted and fixed. The connecting wires are installed inside new and without twists. The phases and neutral wire differ in color. If it is the same, the marking is made from colored tubes or using inscriptions. For input and output cables, a margin of at least 120 mm in length is left for possible repair.

The connection of the lead-in cable and the electricity consumption meter is carried out by the specialists of the electrical service.

Installation of socket outlets, sockets and lamps

The center of the first outlet is marked on the wall, and then, if required, after 71 mm, the middle of the next one is marked (standard center-to-center distance).

Installation of socket outlets and sockets

Making recesses for a socket in a concrete wall is a laborious process that requires a hammer drill with a special crown. Then grooves are made to them, and electrical wiring is laid. The best solution is to run separate wires to each outlet. A plug for the wires is cut out in the socket box and it is checked how it enters the hole in the wall. Then the hole is primed, and a plaster-based putty mixture is applied inside. After the socket, together with the wires inserted into it, it is pressed strictly horizontally into the solution. The installation box must fit flush with the wall surface. The grooves and gaps around the socket boxes are covered with plaster mortar only after they are completely fixed.

The sockets are installed on screws or self-tapping screws after the walls are repaired with finishing. In this case, the voltage in the supply wires is turned off. After the installation of the frames and socket panels, the electricity supply resumes.

Plastic sockets can be used to install switches. Their installation is done in a similar way.

Plasterboard sockets are easy to install due to the fact that the material is well processed. Frame systems allow for hidden laying of communications with any number of wires.

Lighting devices are evenly distributed in the room. The classic solution is to hang the chandelier in the middle of the room. When installing it, you need to know that now a ground wire must be connected to the chandeliers and fluorescent lamps. When installing a stretch ceiling or plasterboard ceiling, the chandelier is attached to the base through embedded elements. One gets the impression that she is floating in the air.

Placing a chandelier on a stretch ceiling

Recently, spotlights have become popular, which are placed in a suspended ceiling. Even before finishing it, it is necessary to determine the installation locations of the devices. It is rational to place lamps at a distance of at least 1 m from each other, and 60 cm from the wall. At the same time, they should not fall on the frame parts. The wiring is located between the base of the floor and the false ceiling.

Mounting. Video

This video will tell you about the installation of electrical wiring in the apartment.

If you consistently go through all the stages from design to installation, then the electrical wiring in the apartment with your own hands can be successfully done. Such work should be included in the plan for the next repair and should be done first. For this step-by-step instructions are applied. Convenience, reliability and durability of the electrical system depend on how correctly the circuit is drawn up, how the equipment was calculated, on the quality of the components and compliance with all rules and regulations.