What kind of paint can be used to paint a cast iron bath. DIY bath painting with enamel: a step-by-step restoration guide

What should be the paint for a cast iron bath? How is it applied? Is it required preliminary preparation surfaces? Let's try to sort out these nuances.

In the photo - Tikkurila Reaflex, epoxy enamel for plumbing restoration.

Why is it needed

And, in fact, why might you need to paint a cast-iron bath with your own hands?

There are two main motives.

Wear of the old enamel coating. Listed possible causes- chips as a result of heavy objects falling into the bath, chemical destruction of the enamel with alkaline and acid preparations and the constant use of rough abrasive cleaners. One way or another, after 20-40 years of operation appearance baths leave much to be desired.
Changes in the design of the bathroom. For example, a color bath sea wave exceptionally badly coordinated with pink tiles. In addition, the unpainted outer surface of the bathtub is also not pleasing to the eye: the obvious solution is to bring it into harmony with the design of the rest of the room.

However: In most cases, the healthier solution is to use a decorative screen. Among other advantages, it will allow you to take up space under the bathroom for a warehouse of washing powders and detergents.

Why not just replace the tub with a new one?

The cost of a cast-iron bath is incomparable with the cost of restoring the enamel coating.
The weight and dimensions of the product make its transportation and installation ... to put it mildly, tiring.
Finally, tiles laid with overlapping edges mean that the replacement of the bathtub will entail a global renovation of the room, which is not always desirable.

Paint selection

Outside surface

What can be painted cast iron bath on your own, if we are talking not about the enamel coating, but about its outer surface?

Oh, we don't have to reinvent the wheel. Alkyd enamel based on penolphthalein PF-115 is quite suitable for our purposes. It can be applied directly to the cleaned and degreased surface; however, the coating will be more durable if it lies on a layer of alkyd primer.

Inner surface

How to paint a cast-iron bathtub from the inside?

The solutions on the market can be divided into two main categories.

Multicomponent enamels based on epoxy resins give an exceptionally strong and wear-resistant coating. Leave a scratch on it a big problem; however, the enamels are quite toxic and require certain skills during application.
Acrylic poured enamels it is much easier to apply: they independently spread over the surface with a layer of constant thickness. The coating obtained after solidification of the composition quite predictably resembles a surface acrylic bath: compositions are almost identical to each other.

What paint to paint a cast-iron bathtub is up to the owner; however, once again, we note that for a beginner performing bath restoration for the first time, the acrylic coating is much more uniform.

Technology

Outside surface

How to paint a cast iron bathtub outside?

The instruction is quite common for painting metal with alkyd enamel.

The surface is cleaned of all kinds of contaminants with any abrasive cleaner. It is the abrasive that should be used because it will help remove dried-on dirt.
The bath is degreased with gasoline or acetone.
A primer layer is applied with a brush. It takes 6 to 24 hours to dry depending on the room temperature.
Then the actual enamel is applied - with a brush, in two layers with intermediate drying. When applying the second layer, the brush moves perpendicular to the stripes left from the first. If necessary, the paint is diluted with solvent or mineral spirits: excessive thickness will make you apply too thick a layer and guarantee streaks.

Nuance: colors of many domestic manufacturers instead of the declared days, three to four days dry. You can speed up drying by setting the fan to blow the surface.

Interior surface preparation

To ensure reliable adhesion of the enamel to the inner surface of the bath, we must make its coating rough.

How to achieve this?

grinding. A drill, grinder with a metal brush or coarse sandpaper will help to achieve the desired state of the enamel in about a couple of hours.
pickling. Dry oxalic acid is diluted with a small amount of water and applied to the entire inner surface. Every 15 minutes, the drying bath is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. After an hour, the acid is completely washed off.

In addition, a number of additional measures will be required.

The harness is dismantled. A tube folded from thick cardboard is inserted into the outlet hole: it will prevent the paint from flowing onto the floor.

Hint: old steel straps are pre-annealed blowtorch or gas burner. Of course, it is not the bath that needs to be heated, but the massive cast-iron nut and the siphon socket under it. Sometimes soaking with kerosene helps to unscrew a rusted thread.

The surface is degreased.

Epoxy enamel

How to paint a bath - cast iron or steel - with epoxy enamel?

The composition is mixed with the hardener in portions sufficient to apply one layer.
The first layer is applied with a wide brush (high-quality, not losing pile during the painting process). The enamel is rubbed over the surface as evenly as possible.
The second layer is applied across the first in 15-20 minutes. The total number of coating layers can be up to four; the readiness criterion is the complete absence of gaps. The main problem with application is to avoid streaks.

For those who are planning to update the bathroom, the issue of updating the bath is acute. But even a cosmetic repair of a product requires certain skills and knowledge.

What are the stages and methods of painting the font? The main nuances and features of this process

First, you need to consider that the bath is indoors. high humidity, almost every day it “contacts” with water, which means that colorants should be selected according to these characteristics, and not just because they liked the color. The mixture must be resistant to moisture, have increased adhesion. Reliably "stick" to the surface, so that after a certain time the paint does not peel off.

Experts advise you to purchase three-component formulations, mainly from manufacturers such as Dulux, Tikkurila, Jobi. They contain a primer composition of pale colors, semi-matte.

Before you paint the bath with your own hands, you need to prepare protective equipment.

Respirator with absorber cartridge, civilian or military gas masks can be used.
oilcloth apron and latex gloves. Latex two-layer ones are suitable, but then you need to prepare at least 2-3 pairs.

Attention: it is necessary to carry out colorful work with the windows wide open, with good ventilation, which means it is not advisable to paint the bathtub with your own hands in winter time, at 20 degrees below zero. It will be cold for all households!

Tools and accessories for painting

brush out natural material, 90 mm.
Sanding head and rubber backed Durex wheel.
Paint knife, for removing fluff from the brush.
0.5 l. acetone or thinner No. 646.
Microfiber or sulfite clean towel to wipe the respirator goggles.

What kind of paint can be used to paint a bathtub? Choosing a material

The most common paint is epoxy enamel, which has been used in construction for over 20 years. Serves very for a long time, but also requires technically accurate performance of all stages of its application.

Acrylic for restoration has been used relatively recently, but in terms of durability it is practically not inferior to epoxy. It is applied easily, but here it is an order of magnitude higher than the previous material.

For the beginner and far from the layman on exercise painting work better to use acrylic.
The first step in painting a bathroom with your own hands is preparation.

Consists of four elements:

cleansing;
grinding;
degreasing;
covering tiles with adhesive tape.

The bathtub is thoroughly cleaned various pollution, for this you need to fall asleep at the bottom of oxalic acid, Pemolux or another active detergent. Leave on for 15-20 minutes and then wash off. Now let's move on to sanding. We remove the drain hole clamps and smooth the surface with an electric drill with Durex. We check the result with an LED flashlight, there should be no reflective spots, as well as traces of rust and streaks.

Before degreasing, you need to remove all dust with a vacuum cleaner, wipe the drain holes with a rag moistened with a solvent. Now, using gloves and an apron, pour 0.5 Sanoks, Pemolux into the bathroom and rub it with a sponge over the entire surface of the product in an even layer. You can rest for an hour.

Attention: degreasing should also be carried out during the grinding process, so that the grinding wheel slips better. For these purposes, you can use ordinary soda, which is washed off hot water and dry the surface.

After thorough rinsing, dry the surface building hair dryer. We remove the strapping with a drain and proceed to painting the bathtub with enamel with our own hands.

Features of the preparation of epoxy enamel

It is necessary to start mixing all the components after the completion of the preparatory work, the mixture is suitable for 30-45 minutes after preparation.

A little solvent can be added to the composition, which will improve the applicability of the property to the material. Depending on the volume of the base is taken right amount hardener. The ratio of all components can be read on the packaging of the product.

Attention: measure the base in 250 ml portions, and add one part of the hardener accordingly. Mix thoroughly.

We paint the bath with our own hands, the brush is abundantly lubricated with the composition and rubbed over the surface. Do not touch the painted area with your hands. If villi appear from the brush, they should be removed immediately with tweezers or a gypsy needle.

After the first application, we wait 15 minutes and again we do all the work, from the same place and in the same direction. At the end of the procedure, the bath is closed for 2 days, the more, the better the painted surface will serve.

How to properly paint a bathtub to avoid dripping and sagging? Their formation should be carefully monitored and, if they occur, smear with a brush upwards.

A possible option for the restoration of an old bath, or as it is also called a "bath in a bath", is an insert that covers the entire surface of the old container.

Can I paint my own bathroom with acrylic paint?

We measure the paint

Paint preparation

Prepared bath

Cover the drain hole with tape

We securely fasten the drain from the inside with adhesive tape

Close the drain hole

Apply paint from top to bottom

We monitor paint streaks and fix them

Roller painting

To paint a cast-iron bathtub inside, you need to stock up on a short-nap roller and buy the right liquid. It is necessary to paint with a tapering elongated spiral from the edges to the drain, you need to carefully monitor so that bubbles do not appear. If they occur, they should be punched with a brush. It is necessary to apply another layer after the first one in an hour.

Acrylic paint Tub&Tile spreads well, but has a specific strong odor Apply in a well ventilated area. Has a long working time.

Carefully study the instructions for painting the bathtub and please your loved ones with a snow-white "masterpiece" in your performance!

Over time, bathtub enamel wears out and tarnishes. It has small chips, scratches and cracks. The bowl is covered with reddish-brown rust spots. And then the question arises: how to paint the bath inside?

Recovery methods

At the moment, the most common methods for updating cast-iron baths are:

their enameling by hand or by spraying;
restoration of the coating by the method bulk bath", using liquid acrylic.

Note! The instruction strongly advises not to use ordinary oil, alkyd, nitro paints, as well as car enamels to update bathtubs. They have a relatively low resistance to moisture and an insufficient level of adhesion. Because of this, the coating will soon begin to bubble, crack and flake off.

Enamelling

The best option for enameling bathtubs is special two- and three-component paints based on epoxy resins.

The main manufacturers of coatings for cast iron sanitary ware:

the company "Dulux", its paint "Realife Bathroom & Kitchen" is most suitable for the bath;
German firm "Jobi" with "Wasch Fest" enamel;
the manufacturer from Finland "Tikkurila" offers the product "Reaflex / 50" for baths.

Before painting the bath, you need to consider the following points.

Before applying the two-component composition, the old enamel is cleaned and then degreased.
Then the inner surface of the bath is treated with a special primer. When it dries, you can begin the main work.

You can apply the paint with a soft brush or a roller with a soft bristle.
Thinking about how you can paint the inside of the bath, keep in mind that spraying enamel with a spray gun is the most reliable and convenient. It makes it possible to distribute paintwork materials evenly over the surface.

Note! Coating components should be mixed just prior to paint application. It is necessary to do this because the viability of the enamel is no more than 40 minutes.

Bulk bath method

When choosing how to paint an old bath, pay attention to liquid acrylic. This polymer has a beautiful gloss, good resistance to mechanical and chemical stress.

The most popular liquid acrylic, produced under the brand name "Stakril". It is a high-density two-component (hardener and base) enamel.

Also in demand is the Yaroslavl coating "Eco-bathroom" and the Moscow counterpart "Alfa-bath".

Coating Benefits

Acrylic bathtub covers have such advantages.

Their smoothness is higher than that of the factory enamel. This increases the resistance of the finish to various influences.
The low thermal conductivity of the polymer helps the plumbing fixture keep the temperature 10 times longer hot water. This makes bathing more comfortable.
Ease of maintenance. Acrylic coating can be cleaned with a sponge dampened with soapy water. Abrasive and aggressive chemical cleaners do not need to be used.
High strength, because acrylic enamel has elevated degree wear resistance.
With a coating thickness of about 6 centimeters, its complete hardening occurs in no more than four days.

Preparing the bowl

First you need to prepare the surface.

Below is the procedure.

If the coverage is only small scratches and yellowed areas, it will be enough to remove upper layer old enamel with medium sandpaper.
When protective layer has deep cracks, scratches, ingrained foci of corrosion, you have to tinker. The coating in this case is removed with an electric drill with a nozzle in the form of an abrasive wheel.

Note! this work will cause a lot of dust to be released into the air. Therefore, wear a respirator or a protective mask.

Next, wash off all the dust and dirt remaining after grinding from the bath.
Degrease the surface with any solvent, such as white spirit. It can also be used for this baking soda. Dilute it to the state of gruel and wipe the bath with the composition. Then wash it off with warm water.
If the bowl has deep chips or cracks, cover them with automotive epoxy putty. It dries almost instantly. You can work with a small rubber spatula.

The technology for updating bathtubs using liquid acrylic requires that the surface of the device be warm. Otherwise, the composition will not lie flat. For this purpose, fill the bowl with hot water for 5/7 minutes. Then drain it.
Next, the bath should be dried very quickly using a highly absorbent, lint-free cloth.
At the last stage of preparation, remove the lower and upper drains so that the acrylic does not enter the sewer pipe. Cover the overflow hole with adhesive tape, and substitute a container under the bottom drain so that the remaining paint flows into it. Application of acrylic coating

Mix the base and enamel hardener according to the instructions provided. Pour part of the prepared composition into a working container, from which it will be convenient to distribute acrylic.
Pour a thin strip of enamel over the edge of the tub. If it has a plinth made of tiles, then use a spatula to guide the acrylic under its edges.

Pour the material in a gentle stream onto the edges of the rim, so that you get a layer of about 6 centimeters, and then flow down to about the center of the bowl.
Next, you should begin to move the stream along the side perimeter of the bath until the ring closes. Please note that it is highly undesirable to stop for a long time.

Note! In no case should you try to smooth out the resulting influxes and streaks. During the curing of the acrylic coating, they will disappear by themselves.

After completing the circle, fill the center of the bowl with enamel. Moving the jet in a spiral, spread the coating over the entire surface.
Excess material will gradually drain into the drain hole on its own.

This method is very economical and its cost is low. Including because it makes it possible to effectively restore the bath, instead of buying a new one.

A similar method can be used for other metal equipment in the bathroom. For example, before you paint a heated towel rail in the bathroom, choose a special paint with a high content (about 90%) of zinc in the composition. This coating will effectively protect the device from corrosion.

When finished, wait for the coating to dry completely. The enamel hardening period ranges from 1 to 4 days. It depends on the specific type of liquid acrylic.

On the this moment there are two such subspecies.

Fast drying coating. Using this material, you will be able to use the bathroom within 24 hours. Such acrylic is suitable if you are in a hurry and you need to finish the work in a short time.

No matter how careful the treatment of the bathroom is, after a certain period of time, the enameled coating begins to acquire a yellowish tint, microcracks or chips form. Rust streaks often appear, which are strongly eaten into the enamel and cannot be cleaned. To give the old coating a beautiful appearance, you can paint the bathtub with enamel at home.

Before you paint enamelled bath need to be aware of the pros and cons different types paint and find out which one can do it. Such information will allow you to choose the right composition and get a high-quality result. There are such types of enamels for painting the bath:

epoxy;
aerosol;
acrylic;
alkyd.

Epoxy enamel is made from epoxy resin, fillers and hardeners. It has high hardness and adhesion to dissimilar surfaces. Such a coating has glossy surface resistant to aggressive chemical compounds. This type of paint is suitable for both cast iron and steel baths. Compositions for professional and self-restoration. The disadvantages of this coverage include:

long drying time (up to 7 days);
toxicity;
high sensitivity to shock;
short service life;
inability to mask chips and dents;
the appearance of yellowness after 2-3 years of operation.

Aerosol enamel has good adhesion. Available in spray cans that simplify the process of applying paint. This coloring composition dries quickly (within half an hour), but has poor fastness. Delamination is not excluded after 1-2 months after staining.

Acrylic paint is found under the names "latex enamel", "liquid acrylic", but in fact it is a two-component polyurethane coloring composition.

At right technology Such a coating will last more than 10 years. To date, the restoration of bath enamel with acrylic is the most popular restoration method. The surface covered with such paint has a beautiful glossy appearance, and while working with it there is no bad smell. Disadvantages: high cost, long drying time (up to 3 days), when a scratch appears, the process of destruction and peeling of the enamel begins.

Alkyd paint is a simple water-dispersion waterproof substance. For the restoration of a bath with your own hands, you should not choose it, since this coloring composition has poor technical characteristics.

Enamel is produced in different color palettes, thanks to which you can paint the bath at home in any shade. In addition, there are a large number of brands. The most popular of them are Dulux, Jobi, Tikkurila. These manufacturers make quality products.

Required Tools

Before painting the bathtub with enamel, it is necessary to prepare the tools necessary for the job. They are used to cleanse rusty spots, as well as to protect adjacent surfaces from paint. For work you will need:

Electric drill. It is needed to clean surfaces from solid deposits. It is recommended to give preference to a drill that is light in weight, as it is more convenient to hold in your hands.
Sandpaper (sanding paper). Both large and fine-grained will come in handy. Coarse-grained is used to remove various contaminants, and fine - for grinding scratches from an abrasive product.
Rubber grinding wheel. Needed to remove deposits in hard-to-reach places.
Degreasers. Helps improve adhesion and avoid peeling paint. You can use acetone or solvent.
Paint brushes. It is worth buying high-quality brushes that do not crumble pile.
Respirator. This mask will protect the respiratory system from the toxic substances emitted by paints.
Latex gloves. They are needed to protect the hands.
Masking tape. Helps protect surfaces from paint ingress.
Mixer. With it, you can qualitatively mix the enamel.
Dye. Care must be taken that its quantity is sufficient to stain the entire restored surface.

After all the tools and protective equipment are prepared, you can begin work. Initially, you should prepare the surface for painting.

Preparatory work

The service life of the coating depends on the quality of the preparatory work. Even expensive enamel will peel off quickly if the surface is poorly prepared. Procedure:

Inspect the condition of the bath and, based on this, choose a cleaning sequence. Best for cleaning sandpaper as it removes rust and levels the surface.
Lock on grinding wheel sandpaper #80, start sanding hard deposits and rust. It is recommended to make several approaches in one place, without pressing the tool strongly against the surface (to avoid erasing the enamel to the metal).
Wipe the surface of dust particles using a soft dry cloth or vacuum cleaner.
To make the surface perfectly smooth, it is necessary to polish it with sandpaper No. 100 or higher, taking into account the depth of the scratches. The walls of the bath cannot be sanded. For them, you can use scotch brite with a grain size of P180 to P1000. After completion of the work, remove the remaining dust, since the bathtub must be perfectly clean before painting.
Finally, degrease the surface.

Repairing chips

Sealing chips is a mandatory procedure, since no coloring composition can hide the difference in height. In addition, bath paint is designed to adhere to natural enamel, and adhesion to metal will be low, which will lead to rapid peeling of the coating.

Can be used for sealing automotive materials and finishing putty. The components should be mixed in portions on a metal spatula. The material is applied to the bath using rubber spatula. This must be done in an even layer, and if microcracks are found on the enamel, clean them with the tip of a thin knife.

After completion, you can proceed to the last stage of preparatory work - the protection of surfaces.

Protection of adjacent surfaces

Closing adjacent surfaces from contact with the ink mixture facilitates the process of removing dried paint. For this purpose, it is required to seal the perimeter around the bath using masking tape. It is also necessary to cover the tap and floors with a film.

Plastic and metal constructions drain and overflow must be removed, and the seats cleaned and degreased.

There is one more fast way surface protection - lubricating them with technical vaseline or grease. The lubricant is applied in a thin layer, and after the painting of the old tub is completed, it is removed with a rag. Now you can proceed to the last stage - painting the bath. Painting with a brush is considered a reliable and economical option.

brush painting

Painting with a brush has a number of advantages: it can be used to obtain the same thickness of the paint layer, reduce material consumption, and speed up the drying process of the coating. The sequence of painting the bathtub with two-component enamel using a paint brush:

Mix the hardener with the base enamel, according to the instructions. Do not prepare a large amount of paint, as it is recommended to use it in 50 minutes. After an hour, it will begin to harden. For mixing it is necessary to use the mixer at a low speed, since the rapid rotation contributes to the formation of air bubbles.
Put the container with the prepared coloring composition in the bath, pour it on the sides and side walls of the bath, let it drain. Color the bottom side surfaces sides and bottom. Those areas that cannot be filled in are processed with a brush. It is recommended to work with a brush, the width of which is about 5 cm.
Now you should dip the painting tool into the paint 1/3 of the length, and remove the excess on the side of the container. Hold the brush in a horizontal position and slowly turn it around the axis until the paint stops dripping from it. After that, you can start painting the surface of the bath. During operation, it is necessary to hold the tool perpendicular to the work surface or at a slight inclination.
When painting vertical surfaces, you need to start working from above and gradually go down. The resulting smudges are leveled by movements of the brush tip in a horizontal direction.
It is required to paint the bathtub with two-component compositions in one layer with a thickness of 1-2 mm. The bottom is painted last.
After painting is completed, the container with paint must be removed in a place where it will not be possible to overturn it.

When painting, you need to take a small amount of material on the brush and carefully level the thickness of the layer. Restoration should be done carefully so that you do not have to buy a new bath.

when performing preparatory work, it is forbidden to use chlorine-containing products to clean the bath from pollution;
coloring preferably in summer period so that you can ventilate the room;
it is advisable to prepare several brushes for applying paint and, if a pile is found on the surface, replace the tool with a new one;
do not touch the dry coating with your hands;
when using a one-component composition, it is recommended to apply at least 2 layers of paint up to 0.5 mm thick;
it is forbidden to soak laundry in the renovated bath;
the new coating only needs to be washed laundry soap, do not use powder and other aggressive detergents;
it is not recommended to leave the bath with water for a long time, and also to fill it with too hot water.

So to return old bath attractive appearance, you can paint it yourself with enamel. However, to obtain a high-quality coating, it is necessary to initially produce preparatory work and only then proceed to coloring. Otherwise, the paint will peel off soon.

This article will talk in detail about how to paint a bathtub at home with a detailed review. various stages painting.

Almost every person at some point is faced with the need to renovate the bathroom. This room is used regularly for bathing, washing, washing, etc., so the bath may lose its original appearance within a fairly short period of time. In this case, you have to think about how to paint a cast-iron bath.

Similar thoughts visited every person who was faced with the loss of an attractive appearance bathroom.

If you have sufficient finances, you can replace the bathtub with a new one, or install a shower cabin instead, but most often such a replacement requires the refurbishment of the entire bathroom, which creates a large number of additional difficulties.

Meanwhile, instead of cosmetic repairs with the replacement of the bathroom it turns out a full-fledged overhaul premises.

It should also be noted that cast iron bathtubs have a rather long service life and are not exposed to rust; it is a shame to throw out such a bathtub only because of the appearance of yellowness. That is why the best way out of the situation is to paint a cast-iron bath.

The choice of bath paint

It is not necessary to be an expert to understand that a special bath paint is needed to paint the bathtub - cast iron or from another material.

The main manufacturers of bath paints are:

Dulux is currently the undisputed leader in the production of coatings. The most suitable product for the bathroom is "DuluxRealifeKitchen&Bathroom";
Tikkurila is a well-known Finnish manufacturer from Finland.
The ideal product for the bathroom can be considered the Luja painting system, which includes a moisture-proof primer and top coats: semi-gloss and semi-gloss;
Jobi is a popular brand from Germany with excellent recommendations due to the meticulous German approach to product quality and affordable price.
In the bathroom, it is recommended to use "JobiWaschFest" - an especially resistant washable paint for use in difficult rooms.

Conventional paints, in addition to a rather low resistance to moisture, also have a low degree of adhesion, which leads to peeling of the paint from the surface of the bath after a short period of time after painting. To avoid such consequences, a special paint for a cast-iron bath is used in the form of a three-component coloring composition.

The components of the paint are mixed immediately before being applied to the surface of the bath, prepared in advance. After application, the paint dries with the evaporation of the solvent contained in it, i.e. chemical calcination of the paint is carried out.

Today, construction stores sell not only white, but also blue or light green bath paint. These colors are preferred by most buyers, as they allow not only to decorate the bath, but also to mask minor dirt on it.

Preparing the bath for painting

Removal of old enamel

After the choice of how to paint the cast-iron bath has already been made, proceed to the preparatory work:

First of all, grease and lime deposits are removed from the surface of the bath.
For this, alkaline detergents are usually used. Degreasing is also performed after the old paint is removed.

Useful: you can check the quality of cleaning by simply wetting the surface of the bath.

If the wetting layer is even and no jets or drops of water form, then the degreasing has been completed successfully.

Next, the old enamel is removed. It can be removed entirely or by removing only the top layer, resulting in a rough bath surface.
Enamel is removed with special tool equipped with abrasive attachments, such as an electric drill or grinder.

Important: before using such tools, you should prepare goggles, a respirator and gloves to protect your eyes, hands and lungs from dust.

In some places, it is not possible to remove the enamel with a drill, in which case they use hand tool (metal brush or sandpaper).

Paint application

After cleaning the surface, all dust is thoroughly washed off and dried, for this you can use a regular hair dryer. The dried surface is primed and the coloring composition begins to be applied.

It should be noted that during painting for 5 hours after its completion, all doors and windows must be closed in order to prevent dust from entering the painted surface.

Useful: experts advise increasing this interval to 24 hours, which eliminates the negative impact of temperature and humidity changes on the drying process of the applied paint.

About self-painting the bath

It is quite difficult to unequivocally answer the question - is it worth painting and doing it yourself. Someone has no other options for solving the problem of a yellowed bath, someone wants to save money, and someone is interested in experimenting.

Regardless of the specific reason, it should not be forgotten that only special formulations, using the usual oil or alkyd paint will only worsen the situation.

In addition, it is important to keep in mind that not every old bath can be repainted. For example, if, in addition to yellowing, there is also cracking of the enamel, it will not solve the problem. You will have to change the layer of enamel, but this will only help for a short time.

In addition, it is clear that it is impossible to give the bath the same durable and high-quality coating with your own hands as at the factory. Therefore, before staining, it should be taken into account that this procedure will have to be repeated after a few years.

Important. In no case should you polish the walls of the bath. In those areas that did not need cleaning and remained as smooth as possible, it is possible to walk with Scotch Brite. It differs in grain size from P180 to P1000. Manufacturers have taken care of the possibility to easily determine its degree using different colours. Green (as hard as possible) is necessary to process areas of the bath before applying putty. The red is used as a primer and the gray is used before applying the final coat of paint. For perfect adhesion, each dried layer must be wiped with scotch brite.

In accordance with all of the above, before deciding to paint the bath, you should carefully weigh the pros and cons, perhaps replacing the bath would be a better option.