Do-it-yourself warm floor in a brick house. Warm water floors: types, features, and how to make a water-heated floor in an apartment with your own hands, step-by-step actions

The main problem of private houses and cottages is the cold floor. After all, radiators heat only part of the air in the room. The heated air immediately rushes upward, leaving the floor almost as cold.

In the presence of a water-heated floor, the temperature in the room is distributed more rationally. Heating costs remain the same or even decrease. Such systems can be installed both throughout the house, and only in the bathroom, nursery, living room, etc.

Basic installation methods

Underfloor heating water heating pipes can be fixed:

By pouring a concrete screed;

In the grooves of polystyrene boards;

On a boardwalk.

The last two options are referred to as the "dry" system. The fact is that in buildings with wooden floors cement-sand screed use is unacceptable. After all, the weight of even 1 sq. m of concrete with a thickness of 50 mm is about 300 kg. To fix water floors in buildings with wooden floors, they are used polystyrene sheets or panels from wood.

Warm floors with cement-sand screed in areas with warm climates, it can be installed as the main heating system without installing radiators. At a water temperature in the pipes of 30-50 ° C, the floors warm up to 22-24 ° C, which is quite enough for a comfortable existence.

Cement-sand screed

The heat transfer of "dry" systems, unfortunately, is significantly lower than in structures with a concrete screed. Therefore, they can only be used as a supplement to heating radiators.

Laying "dry" floors on a plank base and mats made of expanded polystyrene

Important! V apartment buildings connecting water floors to a centralized system is strictly prohibited. If the apartment is located on the ground floor and the cold is coming from the basement, electrically heated floors should be used.

Choice of pipes

Pipes are selected for floor heating diameter from 1.6 to 2.5 cm... It is impractical to use products with a smaller diameter, since the circulation of water in pipes that are too thin is reduced. The speed of water movement will also be low in the case of installing pipes that are too wide: the water in them will cool down before reaching the end of the circuit.

When installing water floors, it is better to use flexible sewn polyethylene pipes, the degree of expansion of which when heated is less. For reinforcement, they are reinforced with fiberglass. The pipes are connected using compression or pressure fittings.

Such pipes look like ordinary hoses. They are also easy to bend, so they do not require the use of pipe benders, and they can be installed literally in a matter of minutes. The disadvantages of such products include "creep" - an increase in the diameter of products without loss of performance up to 1.5% during the first 10 years of operation. In addition, over time, they swell slightly and become less smooth.

Sewn polyethylene pipes

Compression fittings and connection by crimping pipes made of "sewn" polyethylene

During installation, it can be used and metal-plastic(polyethylene products reinforced with aluminum), pipes made of corrugated stainless steel or copper... Bend metal-plastic using pipe benders or manually after preheating to gas burner... The connection at the joints is made fittings without welding.

The device of a metal-plastic pipe and fitting joints for metal-plastic

Polypropylene it is used less often, since it has a small bend radius, and it is more difficult to work with it. It will not work to avoid joints in such pipes, and special welding nozzles.

Calculation of the number of pipes

On graph paper or a piece of paper in a cage, a plan of a room with doors and windows in a scale of 1:50 is drawn. A pipe laying scheme is applied to it, starting from the window of the wall closest to the water riser. An indent of 30 cm is provided from the wall.

The distance between the two pipes depends on their diameter and the initial temperature of the room: from 20 to 50 cm. If the room is too cold, then the distance is made minimal. One circuit (branch) should cover no more than 20 sq. m.

Pipe laying methods

There are several styling methods. The disadvantage of "snake" laying is a significant difference between the water temperature at the inlet and outlet, therefore it is used only in small rooms, where heat loss will be minimal. With this method, the beginning of the contour should be at the coldest zones near the windows and along the walls.

Styling Snail more difficult, however, with this method, the temperature difference in the room is almost imperceptible. First, the pipe is laid along the walls, and only then it bends by 90 ° C and moves inside the contour. In this case, a warm pipe and a pipe that has already cooled down alternate with each other, so the floor warms up more evenly. The so-called universal method, in which the "snail" and "snake" alternate.

Important! If there will be heavy furniture or appliances in the room, the warm floor is not laid under them.

Having measured the length of the contour in the drawing, you should multiply the resulting figure by fifty (sketch scale). Another 2 m is added to this figure to connect pipes to the riser. For calculations, you can use the following formula:

Important! Maximum pipe length in the circuit - 90 m. With an increase in this figure, a pressure drop is possible, as well as the occurrence of sufficiently large heat losses at the end of the circuit. If the resulting figure is more than 70 m, it is advisable to divide it into two separate branches. Moreover, the difference in their length should not exceed 15 m.

Underfloor heating manifold

The first in the underfloor heating system is a water distribution collector- the node to which all pipes are docked. Its main function is to collect chilled and distribute hot water on separate sites. Up to 12 circuits can be connected to a standard manifold. Such devices are usually housed in a closed cabinet. It is desirable that it is located in the center of the wall of the heated room. It is not recommended to install it too close to the floor.

Distribution manifolds

The temperature at the inlet to the collector should not exceed 35 ° C, while the surface of the heated floor should be warmed up to 30 ° C (in humid rooms up to 33 ° C). The temperature of the parquet or vinyl film should be slightly lower: up to 27 ° C.

In front of the manifold, there is usually shut-off valve, with which you can disconnect the system from heating. Next to it are also attached drain cock and air vent... If the system has several circuits with different lengths, the manifold must be equipped with flow regulators.

Pump-mixing unit

Since the pipes in such a system should warm up less than heating radiators, a pump-mixing unit is provided in the heating system, in which water is diluted to the required temperature. Such a unit is connected to the supply line and the "return" (the pipe through which the cooled water returns to the system).

The pump-mixing unit consists of a circular pump that provides the pressure of water, and a valve that regulates the degree of its supply. Mixing hot and cold water, control over the temperature and its maintenance to the required level is carried out using a thermo mixer.

Pump and mixing units

The procedure for installing a water floor

1. The underfloor heating system is mounted on subfloor... It can be assembled from boards or plywood. If the distance between the logs is more than 0.5 m, it is better to lay an additional log between the supports.

2. The floors must be perfectly flat, as in the presence of drops, airing of the pipes is possible. In a concrete base. adjacent to the ground, all cracks and cracks must be repaired.

3. All wooden surfaces (including bearing logs) must be treated with an antiseptic.

4. Overlapping the premises is necessary waterproof... To do this, you can use polyethylene with a thickness of 200 microns, which is laid on rough floor with an overlap with an approach to the walls and fastened with tape or a construction stapler. Lags are also shrouded in it. Roofing material or special solutions can also be used for isolation.

The waterproofing layer is laid over the walls

5. On top of the waterproofing is laid insulation... When installing the system directly on the ground or over a cold basement mats of extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 60 mm or more or a layer of expanded clay from 10 cm are used. Foam plastic, mineral wool or basalt slabs can also be used as a heat-insulating material.

Floor insulation

6. More modern materials for warming water floors are profile heat-insulating plates, in which "bosses" are provided for pipe laying. Each such plate is equipped with a side lock for engaging with an adjacent sheet. For the convenience of cutting, a ruler with marked divisions is located on its sides.

Profile insulating plates for pipe laying

7. Along the walls and door frames to compensate for the movements of the concrete screed is installed damper tape(strip with a width of 120 mm) made of foamed polyethylene. It should protrude 20 mm above the floor. At the bottom of such a tape, a "skirt" made of film is provided, which overlaps the joint, so that the concrete does not flow down when pouring the screed.

Damper tape laying

8. Fastening pipes to thermal insulation material can be carried out using anchor brackets or, in the case of installing a metal mesh, by means of clamps.

Fastening with anchor clamps

Fastening pipes to metal mesh

9. A foil gasket is laid on top of the insulation, which will reflect heat.

10. When pouring pipes with concrete screed in cement mortar it is desirable to introduce a plasticizer to prevent cracking. It takes at least 28 days for its complete hardening. The finishing floor can only be laid after this time.

Concrete screed

Important! Connecting pipes under a concrete screed is not allowed to avoid leaks. When laying metal-plastic, only one-piece coils should be used.

11. If, instead of a concrete screed, a "dry" system of polystyrene or wood is used, then before laying them, the insulation is again covered with a waterproofing layer and sheets of plywood or wood. In this case, the pipes are laid in thermal distribution metal plates equipped with grooves.

Thermal distribution plates

System pressure testing

1. To check the system for leaks before pouring concrete or closing "dry" systems, make it crimping... In order to avoid future leaks, the air outlets should not be involved in this process, therefore they are blocked. When crimping metal-plastic the first test is carried out during the day with cold water at a pressure of 6 bar. This water is not drained before pouring with concrete.

2. Pressure in sewn polyethylene pipes during such a check, there should be 2 times more worker. After its decrease to normal within 30 minutes, the pressure is raised again, and this is repeated 3 times. After that, the system is left for a day. During this time, it should fall by less than 1.5 Bars.

3. Next, a second check is carried out hot water... In this case, the pipes must be heated up to 80-85 ° С. If weak links are found in the fastener, the fittings are tightened. When heated, the stress that arose during the pipe-laying process is also relieved. Pouring with concrete is carried out after the pipes have cooled down without reducing the pressure in them.

Video: Water heat-insulated floor in the house

One of the options for heating a private house is to arrange underfloor heating. The key advantage of such a heating system is the heating of living quarters from the lowest level, as a result of which the most comfortable microclimate is created in the house. The construction of a warm floor cannot be called complicated, but its installation has certain nuances that you need to know about. This article will answer the question of how to make a warm floor in a private house with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages

Warm floors are quite popular today and are used by many owners of private houses. Heat transfer in these systems is carried out by pipes located under the floor covering, through which a heated coolant circulates, or by means of electric heating elements.

As a result, the floor heats up and becomes warm to the touch, which in itself significantly increases the level of comfort in the house.

Among positive qualities underfloor heating, the following stand out most vividly:

1. High level of comfort... The floor heated to a certain temperature allows you to walk on it barefoot, without fear of any discomfort.
2. Profitability... Saving in the use of underfloor heating is achieved due to the efficient distribution of energy - it moves from the bottom up and heats only the volume of the room in which heat is needed, i.e. there are no unnecessary expenses.
3. Customizable temperature regime ... It is highly recommended to equip the warm floor with an electronic control unit, which will allow the system to monitor the current temperature in the room and keep it within user-specified limits.
4. Ease of installation... Arranging underfloor heating is a fairly simple task, especially when it comes to the electrical version of the system. The water circuit is more difficult to lay, but even if you wish, you can easily install it yourself.

There are also disadvantages:

1. High cost... A lot of materials will be required to install a warm floor, and you will have to fork out for some tools. There is only one way to reduce the cost level - to do all the work on arranging the heating yourself.
2. Reducing the volume of the room... The thickness of the warm floor can vary from 7 to 12 cm - and it is to this height that the entire floor rises. If the ceilings are high, then there will be no special problems because of this (unless you have to redo the thresholds).
3. Demanding flooring... It is possible to cover a warm floor only with coverings that transmit heat well. It is best to purchase specialized materials designed to be used in combination with warm floors. An inappropriate coating will prevent the system from operating efficiently, and in the case of electric heaters, there is also the possibility of their breakdown as a result of overheating.

The advantages of underfloor heating are significant, and the disadvantages are not critical, therefore, such heating systems can be used for heating, both as the main and as an additional source of heat.

Substrate preparation for all types and variants of underfloor heating

One of essential elements is the basis for a warm floor in a private house, which must be prepared even before the arrangement of the heating system itself. A number of requirements are imposed on the base - it must be strong enough, even and not transmitting heat. Every requirement is important, but special attention it is thermal insulation that requires - without it, the generated heat will simply go under the floor. Various insulation is used for pipes, which must be selected for specific conditions.

The technology for preparing a base with expanded clay insulation includes the following stages:

1. Dismantling... The first step is to remove the old coating, under which there may be concrete, soil or wooden supports. All dirt and unnecessary elements must be removed.
2. Markup... With help building level along the entire perimeter of the walls, it is necessary to mark a line along which the base will be aligned. In the case of expanded clay, you need to leave more free space so that the thickness of the thermal insulation layer is sufficient to effectively retain heat.
3. Bedding... The base is covered with a layer of sand, the thickness of which should be about 10 cm. Sand pillow after backfilling, it must be compacted.
4. Waterproofing... A waterproofing material is laid on the compacted sand layer (polyethylene is the cheapest, but a waterproofing membrane is a more reliable option).
5. Placement of beacons... Now you need to install the supports along which the beacon profiles will be located. Beacons need to be aligned very precisely.
6. Installation of thermal insulation... All free space between the beacons is covered with expanded clay. For greater reliability and efficiency, it is worth mixing expanded clay with liquid cement mortar.
7. Filling the screed... Actually, after laying the heat-insulating layer, you can start pouring the screed, which should reach the previously measured level. The screed is leveled along the profiles.
8. Alignment... When the screed grasps a little, the beacons need to be removed and the holes obtained should be repaired. The seams are rubbed, after which the floor must be left until the solution has completely solidified.

In addition to expanded clay, a number of other materials can be used as thermal insulation:

• Polystyrene plates, which are usually reinforced with a reinforcing mesh to increase strength and are attached to the base with anchors;
• Roll foil materials, excellent for use in combination with electric heating elements;
• Polymer mats designed specifically for laying a water-heated floor, for which there are special protrusions in the material, between which pipes are laid.

DIY water floor heating device

Exists different variants underfloor heating in a private house, but the most popular type is water. Structurally, such heating is a system of pipelines laid under the floor covering, through which a hot coolant passes. The pipes are connected either to an existing heating system, or directly to a heat source.

Water heat-insulated floor includes the following elements:

1. Pipes... For arranging a warm floor, metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes are most often used. Both materials have good thermal conductivity and low coefficient of thermal expansion.
2. Collector... This element is necessary to form a proper wiring - each heating circuit must have separate leads. In inexpensive manifolds, there are only shut-off ball valves, while good devices are equipped with a valve that allows you to regulate the temperature in each individual circuit.
3. Circulation pump ... The pump ensures normal circulation of the coolant in the warm floors. If in heating equipment there is a built-in circulation pump, there is no need for a separate device.
4. Damper tape... Such a tape is laid around the entire perimeter of the room and allows you to compensate for the expansion of the screed when heated. Standard damper tapes are made from foamed polymers.
5. Fasteners... If laying is carried out on mats, then they will perform the function of fasteners for pipes. In all other cases, you will need special brackets equipped with locks and anchoring.

Laying pipes in a private house

In order for the underfloor heating to work efficiently and be sufficiently reliable, the pipes must be laid at a certain distance from each other. Typically, the step value varies from 15 to 35 cm and is determined depending on the required heat transfer - for more efficient heating, the step must be reduced. It is not worth saving on pipes - too large a step will lead to uneven heating of the floor sections, which will lead to a noticeable decrease in comfort.

The total length of pipes for one room is calculated using the following formula:

• D = S / M * k, where
• D - total pipe length,
• S - room area,
• M - laying step,
• k - safety factor, varies from 1.1 to 1.4.

Usually for 1 sq.m. the area of ​​the room requires about 1.5-3.5 m of pipes.

An important point is the layout of the pipeline, which can be performed according to one of the following schemes:

1. "Snake"... A good option for not large rooms... Since the area is small, the temperature in the pipes practically does not decrease throughout the entire circuit.
2. "Snail" and "double snake"... These layouts are suitable for medium-sized rooms. Due to the close arrangement of the supply and return circuits, the floor will warm up evenly.
3. Multiple circuit diagram... For a complete and efficient heating it is most advisable to equip large rooms with several separate circuits, which will provide good heat transfer and will be sufficiently reliable.

Installation of underfloor heating

A water-heated floor in a private house is laid according to the following technology:

1. Collector installation... The collector is installed in a collector cabinet or a niche in the wall intended for it, after which it is connected to the heating equipment.
2. Installing a damper tape... The tape is laid around the entire perimeter of the building or around the area where the heating circuit will be located. The presence of the tape not only compensates for thermal expansion, but also reduces heat loss.
3. Reinforcement... On the layer of thermal insulation, you need to lay a reinforcing mesh, which is fixed with anchors and connected to each other with ordinary wire.
4. Pipe installation... The pipes of the water circuit are unwound, and care must be taken that they do not twist along their axis. The pipeline is laid in accordance with the selected scheme and fixed with brackets or clamps.
5. Manifold connection... All circuits are connected to the corresponding terminals, after which the system can be filled with a coolant. The water circuit must be left in working order for two days to check for leaks.
6. Filling the screed... A regular cement screed is poured over the water-filled system, which must be left until it hardens completely (this usually takes about a month). When the solution is completely dry, it will be possible to start heating in operating mode. Premature start-up of the system is likely to damage the concrete layer.

Device and types of electric underfloor heating

If it is necessary to install a warm floor in separate room, then the electric heating system will be more relevant. Most often, electric underfloor heating is used as an auxiliary or local heating. Such a system must be connected to a thermostat, which turns the system on and off as needed.

There are the following types of electric underfloor heating:

1. Film... The most popular type of heaters, the main advantage of which is their small thickness. Structurally, film heaters are carbon fiber plates, fastened to each other by conductive tracks and insulated with a polymer material.
2. Cable... This type of heater is based on a cable with a high resistance, due to which the product generates thermal energy when current flows. The pitch of cable heaters can be varied, thereby affecting the intensity of heating the room.
3. Rod... The main structural element is the carbon rods, which are connected by wires to form a one-piece structure. The most powerful and reliable, but very expensive type of electric heaters. See also: "How to make an electric floor heating with your own hands - types of floor heating, installation rules."

Installation of film underfloor heating

Film underfloor heating is the most common system, which is largely due to the simplicity of its installation.

An electric underfloor heating in a private house is equipped from scratch using the following technology:

1. Laying reflective material... It is highly recommended to install heat-reflecting foil material under the film warm floor, which will prevent the passage of heat into the underfloor space.
2. Cut film... It is advisable to cut the film as little as possible in order to reduce the number of wires used. Cutting of the film can only be carried out along the cut lines drawn on it - this avoids damage to the internal elements of the material.
3. Laying the film... Prepared heating elements are laid out on the base and aligned. You can fasten the strips of film with tape, but it is better not to fasten the edges to make it easier to connect them to the network.
4. Connecting stripes... In the areas where the conductive track is located, you need to open the film and attach a clip to it.
5. Insulation of contacts... Each contact and the area where the strips have been cut must be insulated very carefully. Butyl plates, usually included with the rest of the underfloor heating, are a good option for insulation. Contacts are simply crimped with such plates.
6. Connecting the thermostat... The film leads must be connected to the thermostat, guided by the instructions on its case or in the instructions. It is imperative to turn on the system and make sure that all lanes are working.
7. Mounting flooring ... If the heating elements are functioning normally, then you can safely cover them with the selected floor covering.

Conclusion

It is very easy to equip a warm floor - all types of warm floors in a private house are assembled without any problems with their own hands. Complete system will provide a full heating of the room and the proper degree of comfort.

Underfloor heating in the home is becoming more and more popular, not only because it is fashionable. Firstly, it is very convenient, and secondly, with a competent construction of the system, it is economical and, thirdly, incredibly comfortable. As soon as you get into a room with a warm floor, you start thinking about how you can do something like this in your home. The owners of private houses are lucky: you can put any floor heating system. You just need to choose which one.

Heating a private house with warm floors

Underfloor heating can be the main heating system, or it can serve to increase the comfort of life. The roles are different. How to decide? It all depends on what climate zone your house is located in and how well it is insulated.

Heating a house with underfloor heating is possible only if, subject to the recommendations for the floor temperature (the surface should have a temperature not higher than 30 ° C), its thermal power will be sufficient to replenish the heat loss of your house.

Determine heat loss

How to find out the heat loss? In general, you need to order a heat engineering calculation in a specialized organization. This is a rather dreary and rather complicated calculation, which takes into account:

• wall material and thickness,
• materials and thickness of the foundation, roof,
• type and thickness of insulation of each structural element at home,
• the area of ​​windows and doors, the degree of their insulation,
• floor material and thickness,
• climatic factors;
• still a lot of things.

All this data, by the way, will be required from you in the design organization along with the plan of the house, so you can prepare in advance.

It is long and not easy to calculate all this on your own: heat engineering calculation is one of the most difficult in the industry. But still, you can try to estimate the heat loss yourself, albeit with a large error. There are two methods: by area and by volume. If you apply the correction factors correctly, you can achieve more or less truthful results. But the volume calculation method seems to be more correct. It is described in the article:

Try this method to roughly estimate the heat loss of individual rooms and the house as a whole.

We count the heat coming from the floor

Definition the required amount heat is not all. Now you need to find out how much of this warmth warm floors can give you. Practice has established that on average 60-80 W / m 2 can be “removed” from one meter of the floor. Do not be alarmed by this is not enough. After all, we are talking about the entire heated floor area. In terms of the number of "squares" of the room, this is already decent.

But make no mistake! It is about the heated area, not the total. The fact is that there is no point in heating the floor, say, under a large cabinet that you are not going to move, there is no point in heating the refrigerator or washing machine, heating the floors under the cupboards in the kitchen, etc. Besides the fact that it is irrational, some heaters are afraid of the so-called "locking" - this is when they put some things on them. This threatens them with overheating, which can cause cables or infrared film to burn out.

Areas in which either the pipe with the heat carrier will be expanded and will be the heated area. To calculate it from the total area of ​​the room, subtract the area of ​​objects under which it makes no sense to heat the floor, and you get the desired figure.

Now you can count how much heat a warm floor can give you in each room. To do this, multiply the found heated area by 60 W / m2 or 80 W / m2. Which one exactly? If a tile is supposed to be indoors, 80 W / m 2 can be considered, for all other coatings the figure is usually 60 W / m 2.

Can a warm floor be used as the main heating of the house?

To find out if it is possible to make heating of a private house only with warm floors, compare the results obtained with the calculated heat loss. If a warm floor can give no less heat than the room loses, it can be the main heating system.

If there is not enough heat from the floor, a combined system is made. More often radiators are combined with warm floors. But you can also use convectors or infrared emitters, or you can make not only the floor, but also the walls or ceiling warm. You will not drive water floors there (although, if you set a goal, then you can do this), but electric floors are easy. You can combine underfloor heating with another new heating - skirting. In general, there are a lot of options, especially for a private house.

When planning combined system some rooms can only be heated with warm floors. Those where heat removal from underfloor heating is sufficient to compensate for losses. Usually in these rooms there are tiles, not very many items, or pieces of furniture are small in size (corridor, hallway, kitchen, bathroom, etc.). In others, you can put underfloor heating together with radiators.

How realistic is heating a private house with warm floors? Quite real and doable. Provided that your house is well insulated and located not in the north, but at least in the middle lane.

What kind of warm floors to make in the house

But you can heat the floor in the house using different systems... Which is better? It is difficult to say, but more often they are installed in houses. Maybe because it is closer to the radiator system we are used to, or maybe they don’t want to pay big electricity bills.

Water heated floors: types of installation, pros and cons

The most economical to use are water-heated floors. But the system is complex and expensive to install. But you will pay less monthly for heating. And even less than when using radiators. By about 20%.

What do you need for a water floor in a house? Lots of equipment:

Heating cables first appeared, then they began to make mats from them. This method is still popular in Europe (in northern countries with a similar climate, too). So the technology can be trusted. If we talk about the price, then among the electric floor heaters, cables are the cheapest. Are slightly more expensive cable mats, but they are easier to lay.

V last years gaining popularity. And all because they emit heat in the infrared range. It should be said that they are installed quickly and easily, by the "dry" method without screed. Well suited for installation under laminate or wood floors, as they heat the floor evenly. On the market, striped films for underfloor heating are more common, but there are also continuous spray films. Here they are better for a floorboard or parquet, as they heat more evenly, which is important for wood.

One of the types of electric underfloor heating - infrared carbon film

Film floors with tiles are not very good: ordinary carbon films in the screed are destroyed, and their smooth surface with tile adhesive does not communicate well. Therefore, they are installed in a dry screed under the gypsum fiber board or chipboard, and tiles are already laid on them. But there is special films with through perforation, which were developed specifically for the tile. So if you want, you can lay them down.

Infrared films do well on ceilings or walls. This is for the case when the heat transfer from the floor is not enough for heating. You can heat up a part of the wall (necessarily internal, not external) and turn on this heating as needed.

Liquid electric floors

This is a market novelty:. This is a symbiosis of a water floor that is heated by electricity. There are two systems so far, and both have a different structure. One polyethylene pipe filled with antifreeze, a seven-core heating cable is inserted inside, the pipe is sealed hermetically, fits into the floor screed, and the ends of the electric cable are fed into the junction box, which is already connected to the thermostat. It turns out that in fact it is water heating, but the heat carrier is heated electrically by the cable. An interesting solution.

Underfloor heating XL Pipe (X-L Pipe) from the Korean campaign Daewoo Enertec - electric water heating

The second type of liquid electric floors is a capillary system. Here the principle is slightly different. Thin tubes also fit into the screed. They are connected to the control unit. It heats the coolant, creates pressure and controls the temperature. This method is an excellent method for heating one room: you do not need to fence a complex system, and there is no electricity in the floor.

Outcomes

With so many options, it's easy to get lost. Therefore, we will summarize. The cheapest during operation are water floors. They can be installed not only in the screed, but also using floor systems - without mortar. The lack of water floors is significant costs at the installation stage.

Electric underfloor heating is more often used for floor heating only in some rooms: they "pull" a lot of energy, and you have to pay for it. But at the installation stage they require less investment.

Popular with homeowners floor systems heating. The best solution for creating heat in a private house may be the installation of a water floor. However, to do right choice and install it indoors - difficult task, since this process has its own nuances and requires some knowledge.

Features: pros and cons

A water-heated floor is a structure of a heating circuit consisting of pipes. They are connected to the main heating system.

The undoubted advantages of such a device are:

• Rational use of energy, which avoids significant waste of material resources. When such a system is installed, money costs for electricity are almost halved.
• Creation of coziness and comfort in the home.
• Even distribution heat throughout the room.

• A sufficiently high level of safety due to the fact that the coolant is located under the floor, so there is no risk of burns or injury.
• Undeniable compatibility with finishing materials... For example, the device is easily suitable for surfaces such as tiles, linoleum or laminate flooring. If materials with chemical additives are used, then this should be indicated on the packaging. It should be checked whether the manufacturer permits the installation of such products in residential premises.
• Connection variability. So, you can connect directly to the main heating system, or you can create a separate heat supply structure.

However, the warm water floor system has some disadvantages:

• To obtain a low heating temperature, you need to have a mixer that works in conjunction with a water pump.
• Often leads to a decrease in central heating pressure.
• It takes a lot of time for installation due to the need to create a multi-layer installation.
• In the event of leaks, the entire coating must be opened, which may damage it.
• A warm water floor will not cope with heating the entire room, so there must be a boiler to heat the entire space.

In general, this design has more advantages and will certainly become a savior in the winter season. It is not recommended to turn off the system in winter.

Wiring diagrams

According to the quality of the material, the following types of laying a warm water floor in country cottage, in the country:

• Concrete... Here, a screed is used with the installation of waterproofing and thermal insulation, fixing pipes with a reinforcing mesh. As a fixing, tiles, stone or parquet boards are used as coverings.
• Polystyrene... This is a simple installation option using special polystyrene plates, which, after pressing, acquire a convex shape. Pipes are placed inside.
• Wooden floors.

For the latter wiring diagram simple enough. For the device of this method of heating in private wooden houses, there are several methods of laying a water structure on a plank surface. Plastic pipes are installed under the floor. They provide hot water supply.

The maximum heating temperature of such surfaces is no more than 30 degrees, otherwise the wood coating will begin to dry out.

Hot water is constantly circulating. It is important to remember that the heating system in the room is not linked to underfloor heating. The heating process is carried out by boilers of any kind. The best option would be if the boiler consists of two heating circuits. That is, one of them is designed to create heat in the premises itself, and the other is for the underfloor heating system.

This design will save money, since the air begins to rise from the bottom up, and the convectors create heat when the cold comes from the windows. The water underfloor heating system, which is based on a gas boiler, is the following:

• Natural gas intake pipe.
• Water supply pipe.
• Heating system supply line in two directions.
• Collector.
• Two directions for a water-heated floor.

Arrangement technology

Mounting heating system possible only after necessary training grounds. This is done to create a perfect overlap by rebuilding or replacing it. This stage includes important points:

• Removing the old coating and dismantling the rough base.
• Removal of all types of insulation.
• Cleaning the surface from dirt.
• Checking structures for stability by inspection. If worn parts of the beams are found, they must be cut out and replaced with a piece of the same size.
• The use of substances to protect against mold and mildew.

It is important to pay attention to the evenness of the base, the presence of protrusions. Too large differences should not be allowed. If the surface defects are more than 2 cm, then it is necessary to make alignment by pouring fine gravel. Such method will fit for laying a warm water floor under wooden floors.

Installation of a light water floor can be done both with a screed and by means of a dry floor under tiles or wood. It is important to know that it is better to start installing floors in the room where the boiler is located... One section for installation should not have an area of ​​more than 40 m. The pipes for installation have the ability to deform, so it will not be difficult to give heating elements any shape. Experts believe that the most effective method of laying is in a spiral.

Both plastic and metal-plastic pipes... Often, specialists use polypropylene devices that are stable and tight.

It is important that these structures are suitable for installation in heating systems. Otherwise, the use of unsuitable devices can lead to an ineffective heating circuit. It is important to study the markings on the pipe.

As for the boiler, there is a choice. You can purchase not only gas, but electric or solid fuel. It all depends on the location of the house. The need for a collector system is due to the fact that it is important to ensure the operation of the entire water floor and maintain a given temperature.

Not all boilers have a built-in circulation pump. In such cases, you need to purchase it separately., since without it the water cycle is impossible. It is better to choose a pump that has three speeds. The rest of the details for arranging a warm water floor system are purchased based on individual characteristics each device.

How to make heating with your own hands correctly?

Surface preparation by leveling

This can be done with a concrete screed or special formulations, which are sold in hardware stores. Further, it is recommended to process the base with a primer. Do not forget about the insulation, which must be laid on the prepared surface.

Installation of thermal insulation

This process is not difficult, it is enough just to fix the joints with mounting tape. Of the materials for insulation, there are such as polystyrene, polypropylene insulation. The best thickness is considered to be 5 cm. In some cases, when laying on the ground or with increased protection from the cold, a thickness of up to 10 cm is allowed.

Pipe laying

A reinforcing mesh is laid on the base, ensuring full bonding. The pipes themselves can be installed in the form of a snake or a spiral. It all depends on the personal wishes of the owner of the premises, however, the masters believe that the spiral installation scheme is preferable. With the first installation option, uneven heating of the floor is possible. Many values ​​are taken into account when calculating the installation width. These include wall thickness, pipe diameter, and other factors. Optimal length pipe is 100 m, as the water cools down, moving away from the beginning of the circulation.

Heating materials can be the most common water pipes, however, their service life will be much shorter special devices. There are subtleties of soldering pipes, which consist in the fact that the connection between each other must be carried out using adapters. In case metal-plastic pipes are installed, metal surface must be removed within 3 cm from the beginning of the pipe.

The pipe is attached to the thermal insulation with fasteners. They are necessary to facilitate the installation of the floor and to ensure correct placement of the pipe. Fasteners can be plastic or metal elements.

It is important to know that only a single piece of pipe should be used for underfloor heating. In this case, the maximum length of each circuit must reach 100 m. Otherwise, too high a pressure will have to be used for an optimal heat transfer rate.

Collector preparation and connection

Installation of this device takes place according to the instructions on the package. The installation process will be different in each case due to the fact that there are many different models on the market now. Correct location the manifold box must ensure the same water pressure in all circuits.

Boiler installation

Often, when connecting the boiler to the underfloor heating system, a problem is created, which consists in the fact that the water temperature is several times higher than that required for the operation of the water floor. Therefore, it is important to make sure that water at a lower temperature enters the pipes. This is possible by diluting the already cooled water, which flows in the opposite direction.

The heating structure must go through the assembly process, consisting of the following diagram:

• Installation of the control valve.
• Securing the circulation pump.
• Collector installation.
• Ensuring the flow of water at a lower temperature.
• Connecting the pipe to the boiler.

If a screed is used, the process takes place under pressure. Screed mixtures can be cement-sand, concrete or dry.

When using cement and sand, it is best to purchase ready-made products, which include a special plasticizer. This element allows you to make the solution plastic, and also increases the level of heating due to thermal conductivity. For the concrete composition, it is recommended to purchase cement of a special grade M-300.

Dry materials include sand, additives to expand heat and reduce air bubbles. During the last stage of work, it is necessary to take timely measures to prevent cracks. There are two options here:

• When a room is divided into two halves, each of them is poured separately using a special tape. Further, all existing gaps are removed by puttying.

• After the screed has dried, the perimeter of the room is cut out in sectors with the help of a grinder, and the resulting seams are sealed with silicone. Then they must be putty.

In a structure with a wooden floor, the whole process is much easier, since it does not require installation of a screed. It is enough just to cover a special box with boards where the heating pipes are located. An important feature is the correct placement of pipes... The entire structure is placed at a level below the boiler. This will promote free heating and cycling through the plastic heating elements.

It is worthwhile to dwell in more detail on the consideration of the issue of laying a water-heated floor without a screed. There are many advantages here, one of which is the low weight of the structure, as well as the absence of the need to wait for the cement to dry. This is the heating system that saves you a lot of money.... Installation of such a structure requires the use of a base where the contours of the pipes will be laid. It can be wooden or polystyrene.

There should also be metal stripes that distribute heat evenly. It is possible to equip underfloor heating both under the tile and under the laminate, however, in all cases, you need to take care of good heat transfer.

Today, the installation system using gypsum fiber sheets is used. They are placed as a base, fill the gaps between the contours of the pipes, serve top layer under the selected coverage. This design can be easily disassembled, in case of need for repair.... In addition, gypsum fiber sheets conduct heat well.

Others possible option to create a water floor without a screed is the use of aluminum sheets, in which there are already sections for laying the pipe contour. But the masters note that the gypsum-fiber elements are much better in quality. The advantages of such materials are as follows:

• Affordable prices.
• Simple circuit processing.
• Security.

You should not give up the opportunity to install warm water floors with your own hands, since this system will greatly facilitate life by creating comfortable conditions living and saving money on the purchase of energy.

Competently installed heat in a home can be done without expensive specialist services. You just need to know the necessary subtleties of this process and choose the right equipment for heating.

Making a water-heated floor with your own hands in a private house is within the power of any home master. It takes patience, careful calculations, purchasing materials and missing tools, but in the end you will have a system that allows you to regulate the level of heating throughout the floor. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of the water circuit, the rules for the selection of material, installation schemes, installation and connection.

Advantages and disadvantages of underfloor heating

Throwing aside the complexity of installation, the masters agree that water-heated floors in a private house are one of the most effective systems heating. Compared to the radiator system, the water floor in wooden house can provide significant savings in heating costs due to uniform heating over the entire area. Additional pluses:

1. Low temperature operating mode. This means that the air in the room will not dry out, it will not be stuffy.
2. No overheating of the air mass.
3. Water floor heating meets the requirements of environmental safety, sanitary and hygienic standards.
4. There is no negative impact on humans, as most of the energy is transferred by thermal radiation.
5. The installation of water-heated floors in a private house with ceilings from 3 m in height gives savings of up to 30%.
6. The installation system is hidden - this simplifies the processes of interior decoration.
7. Security. When installing a warm floor from heating in a private house, the user does not risk getting a short circuit in the electrical circuit, as is the case with electric floors - the entire system consists of pipelines, ordinary water is used as a heat carrier.

Disadvantages of a water floor:

1. Labor intensity of work. Being a system of several layers of material, the design requires careful preparation and adherence to the installation diagram.
2. Risk of leakage. To find a leaking link, you will have to lift the entire stack.
3. Involuntary weighting of the structural features of the structure. Layer-by-layer laying of materials increases the mass of floors by 10-15%, therefore, equipping a warm floor with your own hands on the 2nd and higher floors, you need to calculate the permissible load on the floor.

It is extremely important, when equipping the heating system on the floor, to perform high-quality insulation of the building. In this case, having made a water-heated floor with your own hands, you do not have to supplement the heating with convectors.

Design

Before drawing up a project, you need to make sure that nothing interferes with the implementation of ideas. What you need to pay attention to:

1. Room height. The thickness of the entire underfloor heating system in a private house from scratch is 10-12 cm.
2. Doorways. When raising the floor level, it is important to maintain the height of the opening. You will have to estimate the price of a door to order or the possibility of increasing the doorway in height.
3. Location / orientation of windows. If they face the windy side, north / west, the capacity of the system should be increased.
4. Estimate bearing capacity floor beams. The weight of the entire screed system significantly increases the load.

It is not necessary to refuse heating, you can consider the option of a floor (dry) water floor. The system consists of carrier piping laid on top of the boardwalk. In this case, it is not necessary to mount the screed, it is enough to install a wooden frame over the subfloor, the height of which will be equal to the thickness of the insulation. Lay or fill in the insulation (sheets of mineral wool, expanded clay, sawdust), lay the boards on top, in the seams between which and hide the pipes with the coolant. From above, the raised floor can be finished with finishing.

Scheme development

The scheme is developed taking into account the parameters of the room, technical characteristics equipment and materials. To make the calculation, indicators and data are determined:

• floor area;
• room height;
• material of walls, floors;
• type of insulation;
• type of finish flooring.

You also need to think over the desired t ° mode. For the convenience of calculations, we present a table with indicators of the limiting t ° mode for rooms for different purposes:

/> />

Room type	t ° mode (maximum)
Living space and areas where people spend time standing	21-27⁰
Seated rooms, offices	29⁰
Hallways, corridors, halls	30⁰
Bathrooms (pools)	30-33⁰
Premises for active pastime	17-19⁰
Premises where time of stay is limited	37⁰
Edge zones of any premises	35⁰

After specifying the parameters, a diagram is drawn up, which contains the following data:

1. Installation points and dimensions of heating radiators, if any.
2. Layout of pipes with dimensions of diameter and length of straight sections.
3. Distance between elements, t ° parameters of the carrier in each pipe and the length of all circuits.
4. Power data for heating each individual room. The power of the radiator is calculated taking into account the location and length of the pipeline connected to it.

Also, the diagram should indicate the data on setting up the automation.

In order for the installation of the water floor to be successful, when drawing up a diagram, heed the advice of professionals: The diameter of the pipe affects the maximum length of the layout. For pipes 16 mm - up to 100 m, for pipes of 20 mm - no more than 120 m. The parameters are needed to ensure optimal pressure inside the underfloor heating system. If the installation scheme for a warm water floor provides for several circuits, it is easier to make them the same length with a maximum difference of 15 m. The pipe laying step should not be more than 30 cm in the center and 15 cm at the edges. In regions with severe winters, a 10 cm spacing is recommended. The spacing affects the pipe costs. The calculation is done as follows: with a step of 10 cm, 10 m of pipe will be required per m² of the area of ​​the room, with a step of 15 cm, the consumption will be 6.7 m / m². When laying the circuit on the diagram, it is necessary to bypass the installation areas of plumbing fixtures and heavy furniture. One contour covers a room of no more than 40 m², the maximum length of the side of the contour is up to 8 m. Thus, in the flooring scheme in a private house, it is important to take into account:

• pipeline layout step limits;
• limits and size of the contour;
• thermal insulation material in the areas of step reduction.

The step always decreases in the area of ​​openings, and this must be taken into account in the layout diagram.

Calculations

The standard formula for calculating the length of the circuit: the active heating area (sq. M) is divided by the laying step (m) plus the distance to the collector and the length of the bends. To obtain more accurate calculations, it is better to contact specialists, but this requires an investment of money, therefore we make a water-heated floor in the house in stages with our own hands.

Advice: “To adjust the degree of heating of the heat carrier, thermostats are installed. The maximum gradation on the devices is 55 ° ".

Detailed calculation scheme:

1. The distance from the walls is from 30 cm.
2. The definition of the number of contours is calculated by the length of the pipe per contour. When dividing the area of ​​the room by the calculation step, add 10% to the turns. Formula: L = S / N * 1.1. Designation L - pipe length, S - room area, N - layout step. Thus, on an area of ​​40 m2, when laying out a pipe with a step of 15 cm, the sought definition is the sum of the length of all circuits - 266 m.
3. When calculating the length of the circuit to the collector (one end to the supply device, the other to the opposite), multiply the final indicator by 2, and you will get the desired pipe length from the point of connection to the collector.
4. Pipeline material: for polyethylene pipes with a diameter of 18 mm, the length is up to 120 m, for metal-plastic pipes - no more than 125 m. Masters do not advise making circuits longer than 90 m in order to ensure optimal hydraulic resistance and load on the coolant.
5. With a step of 30 cm, pipes of 3.4 m / m² are required; a step of 25 cm - 3 m / m²; 20 cm - 5 m / m²; 15 cm - 6.7 m / m²; 10 cm - 10 m / m².
6. If the area is from 40 m², the installation scheme is as follows: 3 circuits 100 m long, so it is easier to ensure the same heating over the entire area.

Advice: "The length of the circuit is measured from the point of exit from the collector, and not in the area of ​​the entrance to the room where the system is installed."

And now about how to calculate the possible heat loss. The formula is complex and requires measurements of heat transfer from all units and structures of the house, average precipitation, t °, air direction, and more. There are average indicators that the owner of the house can be guided by:

1. In well-insulated buildings with installed sealed double-glazed windows, heat loss is equal to 40 W / m².
2. In old houses with an average service life of thermal insulation of walls, windows, doors, the indicator is 70-80 W / m².
3. In buildings of the old type with wooden windows, without insulation, heat loss reaches 100 W / m² or more.

Advice: "If the heat loss of the building is more than 100 W / m², the installation of a water-heated floor becomes impractical."

Choice of components

To make a system of underfloor heating in your home with your own hands, you will need the following set of materials: Boiler. As a rule, they make a water floor from gas boiler... It is cost-effective and simpler in technology. The power indicator of the gas boiler must exceed the sum of all the capacities of the floor system by 15-20%. Another option is electric water floors. Convenient for laying, but unprofitable due to the high cost of electricity. Circulation pump. The instrument will allow the media to flow normally through the pipes. The boiler already has a pump, but it can handle the load if the area of ​​the house does not exceed 100 m². Pipes. The choice is this:

• copper - durable, long service life, but high cost;
• metal-plastic - strong, bendable, inexpensive and weighs little;
• polypropylene - low price, high ultimate heating, but there is a high risk of buying a fake;
• PEX - XLPE pipe - reliable option if the mount is rigid and the pitch is minimal.

The calculated cross-section of pipes for dry water-heated floors with their own hands is considered to be up to 20 mm. Consumption indicator for 1 m² (step of 200 mm) is about 5-6 m. Insulation. Here the choice is:

• foil-clad polyethylene is suitable for minimum thickness floor;
• expanded polystyrene in finished mats with protrusions for laying pipes with a pitch of 50 * 50 mm;
• rock wool - cheap but impractical due to its ability to absorb moisture from the solution.

Advice: “The layer of thermal insulation above the basement of a private house is always made thicker. It all depends on the required t ° of the carrier: the higher the indicator, the larger the layer of insulation. "

Heat consumption meter. The device is needed for apartment buildings where a warm water floor is laid. Collector cabinet. It is necessary for the installation of control elements and for joining the pipe contours with the heat supply main. Reinforcing mesh. The element helps to strengthen the concrete screed after the pipes are laid, but it is possible not to apply reinforcement. You will also need components for arranging the screed:

• screed mortar (cement, sand, water);
• damper tape 10-15 cm wide;
• fasteners for fixing the pipe.

The number of elements will be prompted by a previously drawn up scheme of warm water floors from a gas boiler. If planning works executed correctly, there will be no errors. But the circuit itself should be saved so that in case of a leak, you can quickly recall all the mounting points and fastenings.

Work technology

To make a water floor, the installation technology provides for a step-by-step work algorithm:

• installation of a collector;
• preparation of the floor with the layout of the damper tape, insulation;
• layout of the contour;
• connection with leak test;
• crimping;
• screed.

After finishing preparatory phases the system starts up, then turns off and you can complete the arrangement of the floors with finishing.

Mounting and installation of the manifold cabinet

When installing a water-heated floor, it is extremely important not to skip the stages of work. Step-by-step instruction on warm floors implies a detailed consideration of the technology, difficulties will not arise even for a novice master. A manifold cabinet is a device that contains:

• collector;
• pump;
• air vent valve;
• drain outlet.

The dimensional parameters of the device depend on the general configuration. When choosing a unit, it is necessary to calculate the installation area - it must be equidistant from all circuits. There is no way to fulfill the condition, we put the collector next to the longest pipe contour.

Important! When installing the underfloor heating system in the area where the collector is installed, it is necessary to provide a zone for bending the pipeline. The pipes are laid only from below to ensure the normal movement of the heating medium. Installing a shut-off valve between the loop system and the manifold is necessary for preventive maintenance and repair of the structure.

Preparation of the base and laying of insulation

To make underfloor heating in a private house, you need to carry out preparatory work based:

• clean the base from debris;
• remove height differences, leveling the plane as much as possible;
• lay the selected thermal insulation material;
• waterproofing (dense film) is laid on the thermal insulation;
• along the walls there is a damper tape that will eliminate the effect of thermal expansion of the concrete screed.

An equal thickness of underfloor heating is necessary for high-quality heating of the entire surface, therefore, the better the plane is leveled, the more evenly the screed layer will lie.

Contour device in different ways

Thinking over how to make a water heat-insulated floor, you will have to take into account the area of ​​the room. The layout of the pipes depends on this:

1. Snail. The contour of underfloor heating from the heating boiler of a private house is laid out along the perimeter of the room, going to the center with a layout through a row. This scheme provides fast reverse coolant and increases the uniformity of heating the area. Craftsmen prefer a "snail" in rooms with complex shape, where it is necessary to displace the center of the pipe and in rooms with an area of ​​40 m².
2. Snake or loops. Such laying of pipes for a warm water floor is carried out from the collector along the outer wall (one), then in waves with a return back. Good layout for small rooms.
3. Meander or double snake. The combined layout scheme implies a parallel arrangement of the contours. This option organizes the movement of the coolant with different t °, compensating for the return of heat.

Important! The laying of pipes for a water-heated floor always starts from the outer or coldest wall of the room.

To facilitate the task of laying out, a beginner should draw a markup on the floor. Installation of the system with unreliable connections or pipe sections is not allowed - such a structure will not withstand a long heating season.

How to make a warm floor correctly:

1. The installation of the floor begins with a connection to the supply manifold. Only 7 cm can be retreated from the wall, but it is worth considering the small layout step at the outer walls. This is required to reduce heat loss.
2. Once the pipe is laid along the entire contour, it must be secured with a clamp. Dowels are suitable if you tie pipes to them with wire. Another option is to lay a reinforcing mesh on the floor, tying the contour from the pipe to it; this neutralizes the expansion of materials when heat is applied.

Tip: "Ribbed polystyrene backing, laid out under the contours of the system, will increase the thermal insulation performance and help to mount the warm floor with your own hands evenly, while maintaining the desired step. "

Collector connection

It's simple: the free end of the pipe, which remains after the circuit has been laid out, is connected to the return manifold. In order not to be mistaken, you should first read the instructions for the unit.

Crimping

This is the name of the hydraulic test process necessary to check the quality of the layout. If we make a warm floor in a private house, then crimping will help to adjust the installation order and other nuances. Pressure testing is the launch of the coolant into the system under the maximum high pressure... The pressure level should exceed the design minimum by 1.5 - 2 times (from 0.6 MPa). What to look for when crimping:

1. Half an hour after starting, a decrease in the permissible pressure is possible by 10%, no more.
2. The second half hour - the indicator should not decrease by more than 2-15% from the original designation.
3. The t ° indicator of the carrier must remain unchanged.

The total check time is one day. It is better to give under the stage up to 2 days to make sure that step by step installation water floor heating with your own hands is made correctly, the floors are evenly warmed up and there are no leaks, loose fasteners and other defects.

Screed

Instructions for the installation of a warm water floor implies the implementation of a screed from a cement-sand mixture that conducts heat well or classic concrete. For the manufacture of concrete, they take cement grade from M300, water, sand and 3-5% plasticizer.

Screed thickness 3-7 mm. You need to fill in ready solution on circuits filled with coolant. In this case, the system operates in the mode specified during pressure testing. Drying time for concrete is up to 28-30 days, the period for ready mix you need to look at the packaging.

Advice: "If you need to make underfloor heating in a private house with an area of ​​40 m² or more, expansion joints must be provided."

First start

The procedure is carried out only after the screed has dried and gained strength. Now you can turn on the collector and run the coolant through the heating pipes of the warm water floor. First, the t ° indicator is set at + 25 ° С, then it increases by 10 ° С every day. With a gradual increase in temperature, the system gains the required heating parameter in 2 days.

Fine finishing

Knowing how to make warm floors yourself, it will not be difficult to decorate them. Underfloor heating is laid under laminate, carpet, solid wood, under tiles - in a private house, the last option is the most convenient. But if the installation scheme under the tile remains the same, then laying under the laminate requires a special approach:

1. The laminate must be of high quality. The material emits volatile substances when heated, a fake will be inappropriate. Better to look at the label "Warmwasser" - this is a decor for floors with a water heat-insulated floor.
2. Thermal insulation and waterproofing materials are not placed under the laminate.
3. To ensure ventilation, an expansion gap of up to 15 mm is left around the perimeter of the laminate. Then the gap is covered with a floor plinth.
4. Before laying the dies, lay the laminate on the floor, leaving the water circuit warm. This is necessary for a set of t ° - the lamellas will warm up and are easier to lay.

Despite the lack of difficulties, craftsmen rarely make water-heated floors under the laminate. Lamellas are characterized by low thermal conductivity, for tiles it is higher, moreover, any dies are made using chemicals. In this case, the tiles are much more practical.

Operating rules

Knowing how to professionally make a water heated floor in a house, it will be useful to follow the rules of use. The requirements are simple and affordable:

1. Warm floors in a private house, the wiring of which is made in compliance with the technology, always gain t ° gradually. By running the circuit at the maximum level after a long downtime, the owner will receive a reduction in the service life.
2. The increase in t ° of the regime should be gradual, no more than 4-5 ° C per day.
3. The indicator of the mode t ° of the incoming heat carrier is not higher than 45⁰С.
4. Frequent system start-ups and shutdowns are fraught with rapid wear and tear, but not cost savings.

To use the heating with pleasure and without damage to health, it is recommended to maintain optimal mode humidity.

There are no special difficulties in the design. And knowing how to make a warm floor in a private house, the owner will be able to perform installation on the street, for example, at the entrance area, stairs, car parking.