Scheme of underfloor heating from pipes. Do-it-yourself warm water floor: features and nuances

The decision to independently organize floor heating using a water heating system raises the question: "How to properly design and install a warm water floor with your own hands?" This system is quite difficult to install. But this "complexity" is compensated by further ease of use and more comfortable heating of the room, in comparison with radiator heating. It is possible to reduce the cost of installing a warm floor by excluding the services of qualified craftsmen from the work process, that is, at your own peril and risk, take the entire installation process into your own hands. It is necessary to correctly calculate, select and purchase the necessary materials, prepare the floor surface for the installation of the heating system and ... just do it!

What is a warm water floor?

Warm water floor is a variant of heating systems popular today. To correctly install a water-heated floor, you need to have basic information about the installation of water systems and know the "pitfalls" of this process. After all, the apparent simplicity in practice turns into a mass of interrogative and problematic situations, which, with experience, could have been foreseen in advance.

The principle of operation and the device of a water underfloor heating is quite simple - the coolant, heated by the boiler to a certain temperature, circulates through a special pipeline mounted in the floor of the room, transferring heat to it from the coolant in the pipes.

Take it easy! Our negative experience of knowledge of cases of leakage of heating systems instills fear, what if there is a leak? What's with the floor? .. What's with the neighbors? What words can you hear from them in such a situation?

Today's "advanced" technologies offer people such special pipes for a warm water floor, which (with proper installation) virtually exclude the possibility of damage to the pipeline in the floor!

List of required materials

A reliable device for a warm water floor presupposes the use of high-quality components, the list of which should be drawn up in advance and purchased one-time, so as not to “rent” kilometers to the nearest or profitable building supermarket.

Here is a sample list of required materials:

• Thermal insulation means: foamed polystyrene foam mats or extruded polystyrene foam boards (for heavy loads on the floor).
• Damper tape (self-adhesive) with a thickness of 5 to 10 mm.
• Reinforcing mesh (fixes the screed, but can also be used for mounting heating pipes on it).
• Metal-plastic or polyethylene pipe (What to choose? How to calculate? Read below!)
• Fasteners for pipes (brackets, mounting strips, pivoting arcs, etc.)
• Additional ingredients in the concrete floor mix (plasticizers, fillers, etc.)
• Collector systems (combs) for connecting the contour (s) of the underfloor heating system. And also a cabinet for their "aesthetic" installation.

We prepare and insulate the surface under a water-heated floor

Before making a water-heated floor, we are preparing a "springboard" for installation work, namely, to optimize the condition of the concrete base on which pipes for the warm water floor will be mounted.

3.1 Dismantle the old screed, if any, to the base.

3.2 The base of the floor is leveled strictly horizontally - differences in height up to 10 mm are eliminated.

3.3 By laying a waterproofing material, the base is waterproofed. In a multi-storey building, for example, such waterproofing will save you from the need to make repairs at the neighbors below, if suddenly the warm floor "leaks". In a private house or on the ground floor, such waterproofing will be a serious obstacle to the slow but "sure" penetration of moisture (dampness) from the ground into the thickness of the concrete screed of the warm floor.

3.4 A damper tape is glued along the perimeter (along the walls), designed to further compensate for the thermal expansion of the concrete screed when the underfloor heating system is heated.

Note! Underfloor heating can be installed using several "zone" contours in one room. This allows you to differentially set the temperature regime in different parts of the room. If there are several circuits, a damper tape is also laid between them.

3.5 Hopefully you are planning to heat your floor, not the ceiling of your neighbors or the ground under your house. If so, take care of the insulation of the base of the floor.

Floor insulation is performed in several ways, based on the location of the room and the type of heating in it.

• The premises of the first floor, located on the ground or above an unheated basement, should be insulated "seriously": for example, expanded polystyrene sheets (thickness from 50 to 100 mm), laid on a layer of expanded clay.
• The floor of the apartment, with neighbors below, will be enough to "cover" with sheets of extruded polystyrene foam (20-50 mm).
• In the case of using a water-heated floor, as an addition to heating radiators in the room, it will be enough to lay a layer of foil-clad (foil up) foamed polyethylene (penofol).

An interesting opportunity! If there are sufficient funds, to optimize the thermal insulation process, you can use specialized insulation mats with already prepared channels for laying pipes in them.

3.6 The next step is to fix the reinforcing mesh designed to "anchor" the concrete screed covering the underfloor heating pipe system.

Attention, savings! The pipes of the heating system can be attached to the same reinforcing mesh with ordinary plastic clamps. This will allow you to save a little money by excluding fasteners for underfloor heating pipes from the shopping list.

Let's look at the “near-walled” fragment of the “pie” section of the warm floor:

Design and calculation of floor heating parameters

Pipes

The best option for underfloor heating is polypropylene or cross-linked polyethylene. The cost of installing a warm water floor when using polyethylene pipes will increase slightly.

When using polypropylene, it is advisable to choose pipes reinforced with fiberglass, since polypropylene itself has a significant coefficient of thermal expansion. Fiberglass "reinforcement" prevents the expansion of the polypropylene pipe, which in turn has a positive effect on the quality of the underfloor heating concrete screed.

XLPE pipes are widespread today and have a less "significant" temperature coefficient of expansion.

Pipe size - diameter 16-20 mm.

The maximum heating temperature is at least 95 o C.

The maximum pressure is not less than 10 atm.

Collector system

The design of a water underfloor heating when using more than one floor heating circuit assumes the use of a manifold cabinet with all the necessary devices for connecting and controlling the underfloor heating circuits.

Collector- this is a metal pipe-"comb" with branch pipes for connecting the circuits of heating devices. Collectors are designed to provide the possibility of differentiated regulation of various heating circuits.

The collectors are equipped with either shut-off or control valves. Shut-off valves are designed only to completely disconnect the heating circuit from the system (cheap, but inconvenient), and control valves allow you to smoothly change the supply of coolant to the heating circuit.

It is imperative that the manifold has an air valve, as well as a drain outlet.

A collector group is assembled in the collector cabinet, which usually consists of two (supply and return) "combs", on which the necessary valves are mounted.

The manifold cabinet must be designed when developing the entire heating system for a house or apartment. It is desirable that this be a place evenly distant from all heating devices, usually in a wall niche just above the floor level. The collector is selected based on the number of heating circuits connected to it.

The manifold cabinet MUST be installed above the level of the heated floors. The pipes should only go down from it - otherwise the air exhaust system will not be able to function normally.

Attention! - Why is it so difficult? - you ask. And you will be right. The collector group is not cheap and ... If you use one underfloor heating circuit and do not want to "complicate" the system for additional costs, you can install water underfloor heating to the main pipes using "tees" with the obligatory installation of control valves on the supply and return pipes.

A thermostat for a water-heated floor can be installed in the collector group. There are collectors with electromechanical servo drives on the valves that allow you to fully automate the "climate" control over underfloor heating and heating radiators throughout the house. The special pre-mixers installed in them supply the already mixed hot and cold water to the underfloor heating circuit to provide the required heating temperature. It is impractical to install such systems in a private house, where the thermal loads on various heating circuits do not fluctuate sharply (The cost of a warm water floor at this age is instant), even if you are installing a warm water floor with your own hands.

Calculation of underfloor heating pipes

How to calculate a warm floor for its efficient operation? Indeed, for each room it is necessary to make an individual calculation of the heating circuits. To do this, you can use specialized computer programs or the services of design organizations available to you.

Incorrect calculation of a warm water floor or complete ignorance of it (installation of the system "by eye" and even without experience of such work) can lead to the appearance of a thermal "zebra" on the floor (alternation of warm and cold zones), uneven heating of the floor in the room, heat leakage into cold uninsulated areas.

Parameters taken into account in the calculations:

• linear dimensions of the room;
• material and the presence of thermal insulation of walls and ceilings;
• type of heat-insulating material for underfloor heating;
• type of floor finish;
• material and diameter of pipes of the underfloor heating system;
• temperature of the "entering" water (depends on the boiler output of the heating system).

Based on these parameters, the length of the heating circuit, the pitch of the pipe, as well as the layout of the pipe in the concrete screed are determined (More on this below). These parameters will determine the heat transfer capacity of the floor of the room.

Installation methods and schemes for laying pipes for underfloor heating

There are several practical ways to fix floor heating pipes on a prepared surface:

Use of special profiles with pipe fixing sockets, which are fixed to the floor surface with dowels. Such profiles make it possible to lay the pipe easily and evenly.

Fastening pipes to mats with bosses (when using a specialized thermal insulation material for the floor).

Do-it-yourself warm water floors using heat-insulating mats.

Fixing the pipe to the reinforcing mesh with plastic ties. In this case, the screed loop should be left free, taking into account the possible thermal deformations of the pipe during heating.

Fixing the pipe to the reinforcing mesh with plastic ties

This is how the finished mounted contours of the water floor look like with various types of pipe fastening:

The pipe is usually laid in increments of 100 to 300 mm. The principle is simple: the smaller the step, the more power! But with a "small" step, the total length of the underfloor heating circuit increases, which increases the hydraulic resistance. In addition to the length of the pipe, the hydraulic resistance is influenced by each pipe turn.

Circuits longer than 100 m must be divided into several and a collector system must be installed. The contours must be made approximately the same (in length and number of turns) in order to equalize their hydraulic resistance.

Attention! One INTEGRAL pipe section is used for each circuit. It is NOT ALLOWED to use joints, couplings in the floor screed! Therefore, it is imperative to calculate the required length of the pipe before purchasing it or to mount the pipe on the floor from a solid coil (in the case of purchasing one for large-scale works).

The contour calculation for each room is performed separately. One underfloor heating circuit cannot be used to heat two adjacent rooms, especially at different temperature conditions in them. For example, you cannot lay one contour of the warm floor in the living room and loggia. In fact, all the heat will go to heating the loggia, and the living room will not warm up well, especially if water enters its circuit after passing along the loggia circuit.

Warm floor water installation of which is performed without observing elementary practical recommendations, instead of heat into the house, it can bring problems.

For a loggia, attic, veranda, hallway, you need to calculate and lay your own circuit connected to the collector system.

The pipe arrives at the place of laying, usually in the form of a coil. Therefore ... You cannot pull the pipe out of the bay (and this is so easy to do) - it must be unwound gradually, laying and fixing it on the floor.

The bending radius of pipes is a critical value! It should not be less (for polyethylene pipes) five diameters. With a critical bend of the pipe, a whitish strip may form at the bend, that is, it was formed by a hall. It is not recommended to lay a pipe with a crease in a screed due to possible damage in the future process of operation at high temperatures and pressures.

When laying pipes through walls (when connected to a manifold), they must be “dressed” in a polyethylene foam insulation. And to connect to the collector itself for polyethylene pipes, either a crimp fitting or a Eurocone is used.

The choice of the installation scheme is determined by the individual parameters of the room and the functional purpose of its various zones.

For example, a warm water floor is laid in such a way that first the hot coolant enters the cold zone of the room (near windows, balconies, external walls), and then warms up the rest of the room. This functionality is possessed by the "snake" scheme. Optimum uniform heating of a room of the correct shape can be easily ensured by placing the pipe in the form of a "spiral".

Pouring underfloor heating screed and installation of a clean floor covering

After completing the installation of the underfloor heating pipes, it is ALWAYS necessary to check them under high pressure. For this, the system is pressurized with a pressure of at least 5-6 atm for 24 hours.

After visual inspection of the pipes for leaks, swelling or expansion, the concrete screed is poured, which is carried out when there is a working pressure of the coolant in the pipes of the system.

Turning on the heating system for heating for the "quickest drying of the concrete screed" is CONTRAINDICATED for the latter.

What else should you pay attention to:

• When pouring a concrete screed under a finishing ceramic tile, its thickness should be 30-50 mm, and the distance (pitch) of the pipes should be 100-150 mm. This will eliminate the possibility of the appearance of the "thermal zebra" effect.
• A screed for a laminate, linoleum can be made thinner, but in this case, it is desirable to use another reinforcing mesh, laid under the screed over the pipes of the heating circuit.

Attention! In the case of underfloor heating, do not lay a layer of heat insulator under the laminate! Let the warmth flow to your feet.

The installation of the final floor covering can be carried out after a period of 28 days from the moment of pouring! Do not hurry! Allow the screed to "calm down".

• In the case of arranging underfloor heating on old wooden floors, you can use this method of laying pipes.

System start

The system starts up with the onset of cold weather. At initial start-up, the warm-up time for floors can be quite long. This is determined by the inertness of the floor heat-insulating "cake". But in the future, this inertia will play a positive role. For example, in the event of an emergency shutdown of the boiler, the floors will remain warm for a sufficiently long time.

Let your home be provided with comfort and coziness with warm water floors made by your own hands (yours).

At its core, a hydraulic floor is pipe system through which a liquid of a certain temperature circulates. Heating is carried out by a boiler, the design of which can include pump... Otherwise, it can be output separately. The pump is used to pump cooled water into the heating device.

At the entrance to the boiler, it is mandatory to install pressure gauge allowing you to control the pressure in the heating system. Hot water enters the piping system through collector... It also serves to drain the liquid.

The collector is a piece of pipe with two types of splitters: for hot and cooled water. The manifold includes emergency drain systems, adjustments and settings of the system operation, valves that prevent the reverse flow of liquid.

System mounting technology

Self-installation includes several stages: screed (or leveling), laying heat-insulating and waterproofing layers, distributing pipes, installing a heated floor collector, installing a water heater (boiler), installing pipes, pouring a screed.

All types of work must be carried out in compliance with sanitary standards and safety rules.

Each component structure must have appropriate pressure resistance indicators exposed to liquid or steam.

At every stage, it is necessary leak test and the durability of all devices.

Each scheme of a water heated floor can have its own distinctive features, depending on the type of room chosen (bath, balcony, living room), as well as the main material of the floor covering (tile, wood, plastic, concrete screed).

These nuances and detailed descriptions of each stage of installation are presented below.

Base leveling

The leveling process required in the presence of irregularities is always accompanied by complete removal of the old screed, cleaning of dirt, dust from construction debris.

For horizontal differences exceeding 10 mm, the procedure is mandatory.

The procedure can be performed Dry and Wet way. In both cases, the first step is getting rid of holes and cracks with the help of concrete mortar or other construction mixture intended for this.

With the "dry" method, the following works are carried out:

You need to start alignment from the far corners, moving to the front door. If during the work projections or depressions are found, you can get to them with the help of "construction islands" - sheets of GVL.

When using the "wet" method, after removing the old screed, a primer is poured onto the floor and leveled with foam rollers. It takes up to 5 hours to dry. The next procedure is similar to the "dry" method, the only difference is the use of water when compacting expanded clay.

How pipes are laid

Polystyrene boards are laid on the leveled floor surface. They serve for thermal insulation and prevent the spread of heat in all directions.

The actual pipe laying is carried out in two main ways: bifilar (parallel rows) and meander (spiral).

The first variety applies when there is a slope of the floors, there is no need for strictly uniform heating. The second- requires a lot of effort and accuracy, is used when using pumps of lower power.

The number of contours depends on the size of the heated room. The maximum area for placing one contour - 40 sq m The laying step can be either uniform throughout its entire length, or vary depending on the need for enhanced heating in certain areas. Average stride length is 15-30 cm.

Since the pipes experience strong hydraulic pressure, when installing a water-heated floor, it is unacceptable to connect them using couplings. Only one coupling can be used for each circuit.

It is recommended to use one circuit for heating each room, including a bathroom, a loggia, a pantry, a barn. The smaller the contour, the higher its heat transfer, which is especially important for corner rooms.

Collector installation

The manifold must contain a sufficient number of outputs to connect all circuits.

The same goes for return manifold. In its simplest form, it contains only the valves required for one-way water flow.

Availability servos allows the opening or closing of valves.

The thermostat makes it possible to set a certain temperature and subject it to regulation. It is connected to the valves by means of controllers and is brought out to a place accessible to users by the system.

Place the thermostat away from drafts, cold or hot air currents for adequate information transfer.

The collector is installed at a height 50 cm on a wall bracket or in a special box mounted in the wall. The pipes fit into the corner clip and are secured with Euro cones.

To install the thermostat, you need a 1.5-3 m cable and presence of an outlet nearby with its location.

Hydraulic pressure testing of the system

After connecting the pipes into a single system it is necessary to check their strength and tightness. To do this, they are completely filled with water and air is released. The working capacity of all valves is monitored, pipes are visually checked for leaks.

Re-pressure testing is carried out after connecting the pump and barometers.

After the floor is filled with concrete, the pipes will be under pressure up to 30-40 MPa. Pressure testing is carried out under pressure, in 1.5 times the working, which is 60 MPa.

For this shut off all manifold valves and pump air or liquid into the pipes. The pump is pumped with water for 30 minutes, the pressure is controlled several times in the period from 1 to 2 hours with the pump turned off. A drop in the indicator is acceptable in 2 hours at 20kPa.

Do-it-yourself installation and connection of a gas boiler and a pump for underfloor heating

A standard boiler, operating on gas and serving to supply hot water and space heating, has 5 outlets arranged in series from left to right:

1. Hot water outlet to the heating system.
2. Hot water outlet to the water supply system.
3. Gas supply.
4. Cold water inlet for heating and supply.
5. Cold water inlet from heating (return).

Connections of all pipes to the heating element detachable, are installed using couplings and nuts.

The heating system is controlled separately from the water supply, which makes it possible to connect independently.

The boiler from the collector of a warm water floor must be suitable two tubes. One will supply cooled water, and the other will supply hot water to the heating system.

The pump is included in most modern boilers. If it is absent, it is necessary to install it in series with a manifold and a heater.

Screed pouring mixture

Filling the floor or screed is a procedure that requires great care and accuracy. Avoid floor cracking during drying and during the operation of the system, it is possible by carefully observing the temperature regime and strictly following the instructions for preparing the solutions.

For filling apply ready-made self-leveling mixtures for underfloor heating or by yourself mixed on a concrete base.

In the first case, the mixtures are made on the basis of gypsum, they require dilution with water to the consistency of sour cream. The drying time for the floor in this case is from 3 to 5 days. During this period, it is recommended to minimize air humidity.

From the use of these solutions for screed floors in rooms that are constantly exposed to water (bathroom, cellar) it is better to abstain.

Homemade mixtures are made on the basis of cement. The recommended brand is M300 and higher. The composition of the mixture is as follows:

1. Cement- 1 part.
2. Fine-grained sand- 4 parts.
3. Water. Water is added until the mixture acquires the consistency of a dough. When adding water, constant stirring is necessary.
4. Plasticizer. It facilitates the application of the screed, it is applied in the concentrations recommended by the manufacturer, ranging from 1 to 10% of the volume.
   The criterion for the correct consistency of the mixture is the ability to sculpt lumps out of it that do not crumble or spread. If the plasticity of the composition is not sufficient - the ball is cracking, which means that there is little liquid in the mixture. If the mixture is too liquid, it is necessary to add sand with cement.

Before pouring, the perimeter of the room is covered with a damper tape, which serves for noise insulation, prevent the floor from cracking when heated.

Pipes and cables are secured with rigid clamps.

The screed is made at air temperature from 5 ° to 30 °(a number of professional mixes can be laid at lower temperatures, they are specially marked).

Maximum area for a one-time filling - 30 sq. m. Large spaces are best divided into sections. In places where the surface is divided into sections, pipes are put on protective corrugated hoses.

The shelf life of the finished solution is 1 hour, after which it cannot be used.

Pouring of one section is carried out promptly and in one step.

Immediately after the procedure, the mixture is pierce in several places with an awl or a thin knitting needle to allow air bubbles to escape. For the same purposes and additional leveling, a needle roller or a stiff brush is used. The needle must be longer than the thickness of the mortar layer.

Drying of homemade mixtures occurs within 20-30 days and has a number of features:

1. Unacceptable sudden changes in temperature indoors, exposure to direct sunlight. This is fraught with uneven drying and subsequent deformation.
2. Better floor surface cover with plastic wrap and periodically (every few days) moisten with liquid.
3. After drying it is recommended turn on the heating system for several hours in moderate heat mode.
4. Recommended air humidity - 60-85%.

Before laying tiles, linoleum, parquet or wood flooring heating must be turned off.

When using materials that are prone to cracking and swelling, the air humidity must be downgrade to 65%.

The tiles are laid on tile adhesive, carpet, linoleum and laminate directly on the screed.

Self-assembly of a warm water floor is possible only if there is a sufficient amount of time, accurate and strict adherence to all instructions and rules.

We offer you to watch a video detailing the installation of water heated floors:

All about the development of a water-heated floor with your own hands.

In this section, I will tell you how to make a warm floor with your own hands. Consider the device of underfloor heating. Taking into account my many years of practice, I will tell you how to save on materials and how to correctly make a warm floor scheme. You do not have to buy expensive equipment in the form of mini diagrams for mixing units. Knowing the schemes and devices for the operation of a warm floor, you will be able to design any scheme on the fly and solve the problem of a warm floor.

This article is a complete tutorial for designing warm water floors. Knowing the physics of phenomena, you will understand the principle of arranging warm floors. This information will help you avoid costly problems with your underfloor heating installation.

And it's free !!! This article was developed by a specialist with many years of experience and experience in installing underfloor heating.

Also, this article will be a permanent reference for those who are engaged in and.

In this article, there will be illustrative examples and joints for underfloor heating. We also solve typical tasks.

I will tell you in simple understandable language for dummies how to install a warm floor!

In this section, you will learn:

In this section, I will explain all the nuances that are encountered in the practice of an ordinary installer.

So that you are not tired ahead of time! We will go from simple to complex. In this article, we'll take a closer look at hands-on experience. Let's see the dependence graph. Let's count a little. And whoever wants to count very accurately, you can visit and get acquainted with my personally-developed section Hydraulics and heat engineering... There is more physics and mathematics in this section. In general, whoever wants to consider the entire physics of water supply and heating processes, then you cannot do without Hydraulics and heat engineering.

As for the temperature of the heated floor slab itself, it should not exceed 30 degrees. In general, this is enough. If there is a thermostatic valve with a thermostatic head in the mixing unit, then the setting of the required temperature is adjusted by turning the thermostatic head. Usually up to 60 degrees. Keep in mind that the temperature of the water in a warm field may differ from the real temperature of the underfloor heating plate by 10 - 20 degrees.

The simplest thing in this task is the way of laying the pipe on the surface of the future warm floor.

But here, too, novice installers manage to do it wrong!

And so, as for laying a warm floor, I recommend the snail method, this snail method is the most economical in terms of hydraulic losses. Since with this method, the liquid in the pipe flows with fewer turns, which increases the good flow of the liquid in the pipes. Also, the floor heats evenly over the entire area.

For example:

In order to correctly draw and mark the room, it is necessary that the number of longitudinal stripes be even. That is, 8,10,12,14,16 and so on.

For example, there are 16 longitudinal and 18 transverse stripes (The transverse ones do not affect the position of the threads.).

This floor surface is not rectangular and has a chamfer. In such cases, we mark lines parallel to the chamfer with the same pitch as the cell.

And here's what happened:

If the length of the pipes exceeds the permissible value, then it is necessary to lay two circuits on the same surface. For example:

If there is an obstacle, then you should bypass this method:

It is important, if possible, to make the lengths of the contours the same.

There is also a practical advice to make the laying step 1.5 times less near the outer walls, if the total laying step is not 10mm. Since the floor near the outer walls uses up heat faster.

As for the volume of the area?

From my own experience, I can say that the area can be 6x6 meters. Or maybe 10x5 meters. In many places and in reference books they write that the area of ​​a warm water floor should not exceed 40m 2.

But I will say so! If the length of the floor is more than 10 meters, then such a floor should be divided into parts. Since the heated floor begins to lengthen with increasing temperature.

A damper tape is laid at the places of separation of the floors. It is better that the whole contour is within a part of the warm floor. That is, so that the circuit itself does not cross the damper tape.

If you have a large area and need to divide it, then you should make sure that there is a separate contour for each part. A contour is a single branch. That is, it is actually one pipe through which one stream runs. That is, the damper tape must separate the flows. There should not be many pipes running through the damper tape. Where there is a damper tape, there is a constant change in the distance between the warm floors. And being there can hurt them.

In places where pipes enter the heated plate itself, it is necessary to put it in some kind of insulation. It can be a heat-insulating energy flex, or a corrugated pipe. So that in this place there was a smoothing of the movement of the plate from.

Underfloor heating base?

Now I'll tell you the difference between an ideal warm floor and so-so:

The option is so-so:

The base of the floor is not even and has an error of up to 5 cm. That is, somewhere it is normal, and somewhere 5 cm lower, or even 10 cm. The insulation has a thickness of 2 to 5 mm. The thickness of the concrete screed is from 5 to 15 cm.

The option is so-so refers to the low-quality work of the warm floor. Many people used to do this. For example, the floor does not heat evenly and badly. Heat goes into the stove, especially through a thin insulation. Such insulation is allowed in apartments, and even then such insulation does not economically act on the floor. The heat goes to the lower load-bearing floor!

Perfect warm floor!

The base of the floor is even and has an error of up to 3 cm. Insulation from 25 mm, it is usually polystyrene or expanded polystyrene (With a density of at least 35kg / m 3 for strength). The thickness of the concrete screed is from 5 to 10 cm. It is necessary to lay a metal mesh in the screed to keep the floor strong. Also, metal mesh can play a smoothing effect of heat transfer along the floor. The metal mesh must be laid under the pipe; for reinforcement, you can add a mesh on top of the pipe. A damper tape should be laid along the edges of the floor to compensate for the expansion of the floor.

As for the underfloor heating pipe?

The pipe can be mainly made of metal-plastic or. There is a big question, and what is better metal-plastic or cross-linked polyethylene. Many sellers and craftsmen claim that it is better for a warm floor to lay a special pipe for a warm floor from.

From my own experience, I can say that the difference is very small and the efficiency is almost the same. So this is a hugely hyped myth about XLPE, and it's also expensive. I can only say that the higher the internal temperature for a warm floor, the better. Since the heating is better and the flow resistance is lower. Which improves the efficiency of the warm floor. With regard to heat transfer, then no doubt it is higher! But is it worth the candle? No! Firstly, the difference is very small, and secondly, the laws from the calculations of heat engineering, completely allow for heat transfer. This is that the rate of heat transfer is sufficient for heating the concrete floor. Since the concrete floor itself does not transfer heat as quickly as we would like. If the concrete floor transferred heat instantly, then the effect would be significant.

Copper pipes and corrugated stainless steel pipes can also be used. But these pipes are very expensive and their installation is very laborious. So these pipes are unambiguously disappearing!

The installation of a warm floor has the following sequence:

Explanation for each element of the underfloor heating pie:

1. Expanded polystyrene board serves to prevent the bottom in the concrete slab or in the lower room. Expanded polystyrene board should be with parameters not less than 35 kg / m 3 to prevent damage when loaded from above. Usually, for the first floor, which has an unheated lower room (basement, etc.), a polystyrene foam plate with a thickness of at least 100 mm is mounted. For subsequent floors 50mm. Sometimes it is allowed to lay up to 50mm thick. For permissible floor heating, the thickness of the polystyrene foam board should not be lower than 30mm. The expanded polystyrene plate should lie on a flat surface of the floor without gaps, if there are irregularities in the floor, then such drops are covered with screenings and leveled over the entire floor, and then the expanded polystyrene plate is placed on the screenings.

2. The second layer on the polystyrene foam board is to lay down either foil-clad foam or polyethylene film. Since foil-clad penofol is foamed polyethylene covered with foil, it has, like a polyethylene film, a waterproofing effect. This effect prevents vapor permeability between the concrete floor and the expanded polystyrene board. If moisture does not pass from one environment to another, then the climate improves in terms of thermal insulation properties. This waterproofing effect reduces heat loss to the bottom, thereby saving thermal energy. And the foil layer additionally increases the vapor permeability of the insulation, as it is known that various metals have high resistance to the permeability of various substances. Also, its ability to reflect heat rays has an important effect of the foil, which also adds a downward reduction effect. Also, polyethylene film and foil reduce the penetration of harmful substances from the expanded polystyrene board, since it is known that expanded polystyrene is a harmful substance. Whatever one may say, but in small quantities you will have to breathe in vapors of expanded polystyrene. Another nuance is that open foil in foam foil when pouring a concrete screed can quickly collapse by chemical reactions of the solution. Roughly speaking, the solution eats up the foil if it is very thin. Find out from sellers about faked foam foam using a wet method (that is, a concrete heat-insulated floor) that is special for a warm floor. Foil foam for underfloor heating can be protected from corroding foil or be sufficient with a thick layer of foil.

3. Steel mesh with a certain step serves to strengthen the base of the concrete screed of the warm floor. The mesh located in the lower layer is stretched during deformation of the concrete screed, and thereby increases the strength of the concrete screed to fracture. In addition, the mesh makes it possible to fix the pipe on it. Attached to the mesh through plastic clamps, which are sold in electrical stores. The mesh itself is attached with dowel-nails of a certain length through the expanded polystyrene plate to the floor slab. The mesh to the dowel-nails is connected through a metal mounting tape.

4. The damper tape is used to prevent the destruction of the concrete screed from thermal expansion of the concrete screed itself.

It is poured with high-quality concrete screed (Cement + elimination. Do not lay down a large stone.). To prevent the screed from cracking, it is necessary to water it in the morning and in the evening with cold water for the first week, or better buy a special "plasticizer" for this purpose, which is diluted with concrete solution and prevents cracking. At worst, consult a specialist on how to make an even screed so that it does not crack. Special additives or additives are sold. The thickness of the screed is no more than 5-7cm. the distance from the pipe is from 1-3 cm, provided that there is still a ceramic tile on top. If there are no tiles, then leave 3-4 cm from the pipe. When the concrete screed dries, do not run hot water through the pipes. Better just leave it at a pressure of 1.5-4 atmospheres. What they write must be kept up to 6 atmospheres, and so on, is also a hyped myth. Everything works and does not deteriorate. And you leave the pressure in order to detect defects and detect leaks during pipe damage. And that's all ...

Don't worry about the screed! Any screed will work. And do not listen to all sorts of companies that are promoting their technology. Allegedly, their floor transfers heat well and so on. This is again a hyped myth. The difference is again very small. Because of some small percentages, such a PR is inflated “Mama don’t cry!” ... The main thing is the smaller the thickness of the concrete floor screed, the better the heat is transferred. Since concrete itself plays a small but thermal insulation. That is, it resists heat transfer. Do not lay the parquet on the warm floor. Parquet is also a kind of heat insulator, but stronger than concrete and ceramic tiles. Place ceramic tiles on the warm floor. It is allowed to lay down parquet only in warm areas. With us, with 30 degrees of frost, this is not possible. You can of course put parquet or wood. But you are losing a lot of radiated heat from the floor. Therefore, the heating power should be added to other heating devices (radiators).

How long should the piping be in the underfloor heating circuit?

It all depends on the specific case. Below I will show you a table where the resistance to the movement of water in the pipes is indicated. And you must understand what length to choose!

For 16 metal-plastic pipes up to 80 meters.

The layout of the unit for a warm floor can be of several options. Consider the simplest visual option, where there are no special problems.

Floor heating connection diagram.

To understand this, let's look at a visual diagram.

The arrows indicate the streams of water. The floor is the contour of warm floors.

Which circuit do you think is more efficient? Of course consistent! In a sequential scheme, the entire pump flow goes to the underfloor heating circuit. And in a parallel circuit, the pump flow rate is divided with the input circulation flow rate. Therefore, if you want to squeeze the maximum efficiency out of the pump on the underfloor heating circuit, then you definitely need a sequential mixing unit system. And it is not discussed.

Also, with a sequential scheme, many more circuits can be laid in one mixing unit. Since the consumption of floors can be obtained much more. While on a parallel type, the pump flow is shared with another circulation ring.

So that you understand which circuits are of sequential and parallel types, consider the circuits.

Parallel circuits of mixing units:

Sequential schemes of mixing units:

A sequential system is better in that the entire pump flow goes to the underfloor heating circuit. This stream is not split. This makes it possible to create a large number of circuits in one mixing unit.

Do you want to know how to make a warm floor without a mixing unit?

Do not forget! Automatic air deflectors are not indicated in the diagram. I hope it won't be difficult to figure out where to put them. Place on a high point in the supply and return manifolds. Keep in mind and consider that the pump rotor does not spin in the air.

We have not considered the option when there is one circuit for a warm floor. In principle, this is quite possible for one circuit. Only the diameter of the pipes can be reduced, and the power and flow rate of the pump can be reduced by three times. More details below.

You can find out which schemes to apply to three-way valves.

Which pump to use for a warm water floor?

Standard circulation pumps are sold on the market for a flow rate of 2.5 m 3 / hour, this is about 40 liters / minute and a head of up to 6 meters. The higher, the faster the flow rate in the underfloor heating circuit will be. For underfloor heating, there is a standard pump standard with parameters (2.5m 3 / h with a head of 6m.).

If the pump indicates that its flow rate is 40 liters per minute, then in fact this does not mean that it will pump like that. It all depends on the throughput of the system itself or the underfloor heating unit. For example, if you have many long circuits, then they give sufficient resistance to movement, as a result of which the pump flow rate decreases.

An approximate graph of all pumps:

And now the real schedule of such a pump (2.5m 3 / h with a head of 6m.):

Graph 1.

Now think, the better the transmission, the less pressure appears on the contours. The more branches (circuits) in one mixing unit, the higher the flow rate and, of course, the lower the head on all circuits. So don't go overboard! If a pressure of 3 meters is required for good pumping of the circuit, then it is necessary to observe the flow rate according to the schedule and not to increase the number of circuits.

How to find out the total flow rate in a mixing unit for a parallel circuit?

2. Calculate how many losses will be produced by all branches (contours). But in fact, the amount of losses will be able to find a constant consumption of the incoming heat into the mixing unit. It is usually equal to about 40-100% of all circuit costs. That is, if the entire sum of the flow rate of the circuits is 15 liters / minute, then the flow rate of incoming heat is approximately 6-15 liters / minute. This is dependent on the temperature difference between the incoming temperature and the temperature set by the thermal head. They also affect the consumption and heat loss of the floor itself. That is, if the temperature from the boiler goes to 60 degrees, and 40 degrees are set in the mixing unit, then the flow rate will be approximately 40%. And if the temperature from the boiler goes 75 degrees, and 40 degrees is set in the mixing unit, then the flow rate will be about 25%. You also need to take into account the bypass, if there is one, then a constant flow also goes through it. Add about 6 liters / minute more to the bypass. If they are long, then, accordingly, they are large, and, accordingly, the thermal head begins to transmit more heat, which means that the pump flow rate increases, and, accordingly, the pressure drops.

And if it is very difficult to understand, then consider this:

2. Multiply all flow rates of the branches by 2. That is, if the flow rate of all circuits is 15, then the total flow rate of the pump itself should be 30 liters / minute.

How to find out the entire flow rate in the mixing unit for a sequential scheme?

Check the resulting flow rate with the graph and find the pressure loss given by the graph. On the horizontal coordinate there is a flow rate scale, from the desired scale you go up, rest against the line and then move horizontally to the left and get a pressure scale. The schedule for other pumps is original. Simply by hand you can draw the scale of your pump and draw an arc in it as shown in graph 1. Since all pumps operate on a standard curve. And depending on the pressure, you can choose the required length of the pipeline according to table 1.

Consider one more feature!! This is that if a pump with a pressure of 6 meters, in fact, as usual, produces less pressure, for example 5 meters. If the flow rate is 40 liters / minute, it can deliver 30 liters / minute. This is due to various factors: Loss of voltage in the network. Local resistances of the nodes of the tryniks themselves. Some narrowing in the pipes, turns and so on. And as a result, you need to consider about 15% lower pump resource. Only then will you do it right.

Here is a graph of practical experience for a pump with parameters (2.5m 3 / h with a head of 6m.):

Graph 2.

How to find out how long the pipe is needed for a warm floor.

To calculate this, you need to know the water flow in the pipe at a given length of the pipeline for a certain floor area. Also, for 10m 2, there must be a flow rate of at least 2 liters / minute. Depends on heat loss. Details will be given below.

Find the head loss from table 1. And so that the pressure at the inlet to the circuit is not lower along the pipe at a certain fluid flow rate.

And the head in one mixing unit is the same for all circuits. The pump generates one head for all circuits. The head is calculated according to the schedule 2.

Don't get confused! This is a comprehensive solution. Read below about the laying step and then it should be clear about the length of the pipeline. The main thing is not to make the pipe too long.

And if it's simple, then for every 10 meters of 16 pipes it is necessary to pump at least 0.4 liters / minute. That is, for 50 meters of pipe, 2 liters / minute are needed. And at 80 meters 3.2 liters / minute.

The comprehensive solution is as follows:

Table 1

Keep in mind that if you install to yourself, on an already clogged heating system, then perhaps with this mixing unit you will take some flow from the boiler, which may affect the flow in other heating branches. This problem is solved by adding, with additional pumps.

As for the losses at the pipe bends, they are very small, for example, to obtain a resistance of 1 meter at a speed of 0.44 meters / second, 200 turns (90 degrees) are needed. As a rule, there can be a maximum of 40 of them on one circuit.

It is very important to know that if you use an antifreeze liquid in a heating system, then an antifreeze liquid differs in viscosity from water from 30% to 50%. This means that the water through the pipes will run even slower. And the calculations need to be done for others. It is necessary to add a pump power reserve by about 20% or shorten the pipes by 20%. Also keep in mind that the heat capacity of the non-freezing liquid is again about 20% less. This means this liquid will carry less heat.

How many underfloor heating circuits should be assembled in one mixing unit?

Based on the golden experience:

From experience, I will say a pump with a flow rate of up to 40 liters / minute and a pressure of 6 meters for a parallel system, up to 8 circuits with a length not exceeding 65 meters for 16 pipes are enough.

For a sequential system, up to 12 circuits of a long pipe not exceeding 65 meters for 16 are sufficient.

If you decide to make pipes 80 meters long, then you should make 5 circuits for a parallel system, 8 circuits for a serial system, for one such pump.

Just do not try to make a circuit with a length of 100 meters 16 pipes, it is not very economical! Tested on my own experience!

Algorithm for solving this problem for a parallel system.

Let's say you have 6 contours of a warm floor. With the length, you also decided and it is about 80 meters. You also decided on the consumption and it is equal to 3 liters / minute for each branch.

And now we consider:

We look table 1.

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Underfloor heating with water is quite an attractive solution. But if you want to install them yourself, without resorting to the help of professionals and without spending money on their services, you will have to thoroughly study the topic and learn all the subtleties. You should know both the principles of connection and the methodology for arranging the base. Laying will also have to be done using a special technology.

Design

There are many varieties of warm water floor on the market. It is produced by dozens of leading manufacturers. But regardless of the specific make and model mandatory components are:

• boiler that heats water;
• pump that pumps water;
• ball valves (they are installed at the inlet to the boiler);
• pipes;
• a collector device that allows you to set up and regulate the heating of the floors at your discretion;
• fittings, by means of which the main route is mounted, starting from the heater, and also pipes are connected to the collectors.

Each of these building blocks has its own characteristics. So, pipes must be made of polypropylene with a reinforcing fiberglass layer, otherwise there is a high risk of excessive expansion in a hot state. Polyethylene has less thermal expansion. In this case, the optimal diameter of the pipes is from 1.6 to 2 cm. When buying, find out if they will withstand a pressure of 10 bar when pumping water heated to 95 degrees.

The collector, with the help of which water enters the pipeline, is sometimes called a splitter. One of these devices sorts hot water along the heating circuits, and the other collects it after passing through the entire system. Both devices are placed inside a manifold cabinet. High-quality performance of the collection group also includes:

• valves;
• air outlets;
• devices that regulate water consumption;
• units for the accelerated outflow of liquid in a critical situation.

A manifold with a shut-off valve is impractical, so it is better to choose options equipped with control systems that provide a smooth change in the flow of the coolant to a particular circuit.

The exact length and installation spacing when installing pipes are calculated individually for all rooms (rooms). There are no uniform standards here. If you do not feel prepared enough for self-calculation using specialized software, use the services of design organizations. Designers will need to know what the size of the room is, how powerful the boiler will be installed, what the walls in the house (apartment) are made of, what are the properties of ceilings and partitions. The type of floor covering, the device of the insulation layer and the diameter of the pipes must be taken into account.

The project should indicate not only what is the length of the pipe, but also the installation step and the rational laying path. Additionally, heat losses and hydraulic resistance are calculated (it must be strictly the same in each circuit). It is undesirable to use large contours (100 m and longer).

It is better to divide each such into several smaller ones. All contours are strictly one pipe, therefore, joints and couplings when laying in a screed are prohibited. Verandas, attics and loggias are heated by an option that is separate from the adjacent rooms.

Remember that pipes should be laid starting from the outer walls, and the uniformity of heating reduction is achieved through the "snake" scheme.

In rooms where there are only internal walls, the underfloor heating structure should be spiral, directed from the boundaries of the room to its middle. In this case, a double step is maintained between any pair of turns.

For your information: you should select and buy a collector only after how the number of contours and their characteristic features will be calculated. The simplest solution, with only isolation valves alone, is relatively cheap, but the lack of flexible adjustment options will cause a lot of inconvenience. The other extreme to be avoided is an expensive manifold equipped with servos and pre-mixers.

Such equipment in a private house or apartment is completely superfluous, with the exception of giant cottages. When deciding which boiler to install, be guided, first of all, by its power, which, even when operating in peak design mode, should have a reserve of at least 15%.

To ensure the mixing of hot and cold heat transfer fluid, thermostatic mixers are used. They are two-way (paired structures are placed on the supply and return pipes) and three-way (with the addition of an electric drive, they are mounted on the boiler outlet). Take care of the presence of a servo drive, a thermostat: investments in these devices are justified by the fact that it will be more convenient to use the system. Servos are installed on the water supply combs.

Mechanical thermostats are relatively simple and reliable in use, so they are easy to use even for people who are poorly versed in technology. Electronic controllers are a little more complicated, and if you need to flexibly adjust the operating parameters of the heated floor, you will have to purchase a programmable device.

Having figured out in general terms with the device and the configuration of the floor heating equipment, now let's see how it works. From the boiler (in rare cases from a heated towel rail), water enters the pipeline. Passing through the thermostatic valve, it transfers a certain amount of heat to it. When a certain temperature is reached, the valve starts the process of mixing water taken from the return pipe. For this purpose, a two-way or three-way valve is opened, installed before the circulation pump (inside a special jumper).

The mixed liquid, passing through the circulation pump, touches the thermostat, which ultimately gives commands to open and close the coolant supply from the return circuit to the main circuit. Thanks to this scheme, the water temperature is maintained within the specified range of values ​​and is instantly corrected when deviating from it. Then the water goes into the distribution manifold (but only in a large room, where there is a need to distribute the coolant along several circuits and then pump it in the opposite direction).

By installing underfloor heating in several rooms at once, install a manifold that regulates the temperature. This is necessary not only because everyone needs their own degree of heating, but also because the completely identical length of the circuit cannot be maintained. The adjustment is especially useful if one of the rooms is internal and the other has external walls.

Thermostats can measure the heating of the air in the room, or the temperature of the floor covering. Focus on what is important to you and do not confuse these two types.

Make sure there is a bypass in the heating system. It will allow you to keep the equipment in perfect order, if suddenly the water supply to all circuits is stopped at the same time.

Pros and cons

Water heat-insulated floor economical. A low temperature of the coolant (not exceeding 50 degrees) will reduce the current consumption of an electric boiler by 20% (in comparison with heating with radiators). Uniform heating of the entire area of ​​the dwelling with a physiologically comfortable temperature distribution (22 degrees on the floor itself, 18 degrees at face level) can also be considered a positive side. The hidden location of the heating system completely excludes burns and mechanical injuries in direct contact with it and the coolant, which is especially important if there are children in the house.

A safe water floor is also serves for a long time. Properly executed installation and correct selection of components allows the system to be used for 30-40 years. Unfortunately, there are also disadvantages. For example, the increased complexity of installation (if you do not understand the problem enough or do not have the necessary experience, contact the professionals, or choose the electrical option). Incorrect installation will not only reduce the heating efficiency, but also increase the risk of leakage.

If, due to installation errors, normal wear and tear, or due to any other problem, water begins to leak, you will have to disassemble the floor, dismantle the heating structure, change it completely or partially, and only then reconnect it. Finally, in private residential buildings it will not be possible to use water floors as the only sources of heat.

Long-term (tens of hours) heating cannot be considered a disadvantage: the more that significant thermal inertia will allow the floor to stably heat the air even with short-term interruptions. Be prepared that laying a water floor (even with your own hands) will be significantly more expensive than installing its electrical version. Some materials in terms of 1 sq. M can cost at least 1,500 rubles. When a team is involved, it will need to pay no less.

A good result is achieved if the floor is raised by at least 10 cm. Costs are also associated with the installation of control systems, manifold boxes and air vent valves.

Where is it used?

Such a heating system in an apartment room can only be used theoretically. The technical hurdles are very serious. The fact is that it is extremely dangerous and simply forbidden to feed the pipeline with ready-made hot water, and special heating of cold water is expensive and difficult. In addition, any efficient systems are bulky and heavy, that is, they take up a considerable part of the height of the room, exerting a significant load on the surface of the floor and ceilings.

In a private wooden house, the thermal loads on individual circuits, if they differ, are insignificant. Therefore, carefully consider whether it is worth installing expensive, complex automatic control systems in a small home. A large cottage or house with unheated rooms is another matter.

It is quite possible to put a water floor in a frame house, but its installation has an important difference - due to the foundation that is lightweight to the limit, you will have to abandon the use of heavy concrete screeds or cement-sand mixtures. It is more correct to use dry polystyrene styling. It was specially designed for frame dwellings. Keep in mind that in order for the thermal effect to be maximum, you will have to think about good insulation of external walls, which are usually made thin.

The water-based floor heating system also has its own specifics in the bathroom. If it is installed in an apartment, we recommend that you get advice from a design organization, as well as form and register an official project and obtain consent from neighbors. It is advisable to feed the circuit with a heating medium from a heated towel rail, and two-way valves at the inlet will not reduce the water temperature below and above the riser. Regardless of whether you need to heat the bathroom in an apartment or in a private house, pay maximum attention to waterproofing. It is worth spending money on a special kind of film or euroruberoid.

The base is poured using expanded clay or fine gravel. To exclude the appearance of irregularities, beacons must be installed. Please note that you cannot walk on the bathroom coverings filled with screed for 5-6 days. In this case, you will have to regularly wet the surface, otherwise it may crack. Since a rare builder will be able to independently make a cement mixture (which will not be covered with an intricate pattern of cracks in the next few years), it is better to purchase a completely ready-made composition in the store. And to do experiments another time, when thinking over the design of a heated bathroom, for example.

Tools for work

In the process of installing water underfloor heating, you need to use 18 different tools. You will definitely need:

• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• construction hair dryer.

From hand tools you will need:

• scissors;
• ordinary saw;
• saw for metal;
• working knife;
• a hammer;
• bit;
• vice;
• pliers;
• file.

Work with coatings is carried out with a spatula and a paint brush. You need to measure the required dimensions with a tape measure and a meter ruler, but besides them, you will also need a sanding mesh or sandpaper.

In addition to tools, you will also need materials:

• for thermal insulation, foil mats made of expanded polystyrene are most often used, or plates of the same material, processed by extrusion;
• damping self-adhesive tape should have a thickness of 0.5 to 1 cm. Pipes are fastened with brackets, mounting strips, pivoting arcs and some other parts.

Preparation of the base

The old screed according to the technology must be completely eliminated in order to expose the base overlap. Level the floor surface immediately if the deviation from the horizontal exceeds 1 cm.If cracks, chips and cracks remain after removing the old floor covering, use a cement or gypsum leveling mixture. Further, making sure that there is no dust, dirt and debris left on the surface, a layer of waterproofing is placed on top of it.

The perimeter of the base is occupied by a damper tape, which will help to compensate for the thermal expansion of the main floor covering during heating. It is important to take into account that when there are several contours at once, the tape should be placed in the intervals of contours close to each other.

To reduce unproductive heat loss, you will have to additionally insulate the floor. Only in rare cases is it initially ready in this sense. The choice of thermal insulation material is determined by the following considerations:

• if the warm floor serves only as an assistant to the main heating system, you can limit yourself to foamed polyethylene with a reflective foil layer;
• when the apartment is located above the heated parts of the building, it is required to use extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 2-5 cm, or no less durable substitutes;
• in apartments located above a cold basement, more serious protection is required - expanded clay is poured and expanded polystyrene is laid with a total layer of 5 cm or more.

Modern manufacturers offer special insulation materials for warm floors. One side of such heaters has channels for installing pipelines. It is recommended to use mineral wool, expanded polystyrene and special mats. To strengthen the screed layer, a reinforcing mesh structure is used to which pipes can be attached. Their attachment is provided with plastic ties, so there is no need for fastening strips and special clips. When the base is ready, there is no point in waiting for something else - it's time to start installing the floor heating equipment itself.

Mounting

Connection diagram

Installation of a water underfloor heating always begins with the installation of a manifold cabinet. They put it in such a way that the distance to the pipelines going to and from all rooms is approximately equal. You can hide an unsightly-looking cabinet by building it into the wall (load-bearing walls are not suitable for this). Please note that the drawer is located above the warm floor, otherwise the air outlet will be blocked.

In a modern system (with rare exceptions), circulation is provided by pumping equipment. The pump that is installed inside the boiler is enough to pump water over an area of ​​150 sq m, even if the building is two-story. If the total area of ​​the building is larger, you will definitely need to install additional pumps with advanced functions.

In order to be able to service the heating system without draining the water, the boiler inlet and outlet are equipped with shut-off valves. Using them, you can disconnect the heater for repair and maintenance at any convenient time. In the presence of two or more collector cabinets, the main supply line is equipped with a splitter, immediately behind which narrowing adapters stand.

The connection of pipes to the manifold involves the use of compression fittings or Eurocone devices. If necessary, you can pass such pipes through the walls, close them on all sides with an insulating layer of foamed polyethylene. When all parts are stowed and each unit is connected in its proper place, the system must be tested. After supplying water to the pipes, they are kept under a pressure of 5 or 6 bar for 24 hours (depending on the design operating value). If such a check did not lead to the appearance of visually noticeable extensions, you can safely proceed to pouring the concrete layer.

It is allowed to fill the screed only when supplying fluid at the planned pressure. Drying time to readiness is at least 4 weeks (under ideal conditions). If tiles are laid on top, the screed should have a thickness of 30-50 mm, and the pipes are distributed at a distance of 100-150 mm from each other. Failure to comply with these rules, even if the connection of all elements is correct, will lead to uneven heating of different parts of the surface.

Under laminate or linoleum, the screed can be thinner. Then a reinforcing mesh helps to compensate for the decrease in its strength. If the underfloor heating is placed under the laminate, it is not necessary to install thermal insulation, otherwise the energy efficiency of the heating will be reduced.

Shrinkage seams are necessarily equipped in a screed if:

• the area of ​​the room exceeds 30 sq m;
• there is at least one wall longer than 8 m;
• the length is less than 50 or more than 200% of the width of the room;
• the configuration is complex and bizarre.

For the design of screeds, it is allowed to use a cement-sand mixture based on Portland cement (at least M-400, and even better, use M-500). When ready-made concrete is used, its grade should be M-350 and higher. In addition to laying the damper tape, the reinforcing mesh is divided where the seam passes. The thickness of each seam is 1 cm, and the upper part is treated with a sealant. When passing pipes in these places they should only be placed in the outer corrugated pipe.

The start-up of water floors should take place at the onset of the first cold weather. Please note that the thermal inertia of the floor covering is high and it will take a few days, when it is overcome, that optimal conditions are created.

You must not connect the underfloor heating to the battery (as well as to the existing central heating and hot water supply system)! This will not only cause sanctions from the regulatory authorities, but will also lead to disruption of the normal operation of communal systems. Be sure to install an autonomous heating boiler, which will become the source of hot water in the system. In addition to manual adjustment, you can control the warm floor by means of a servo drive and a sensor, or weather automation.

Since the system must have control and regulatory components, it must be connected to electricity. Underfloor heating in different rooms can be controlled by one thermostat only if the thermal conductivity of the floor covering completely coincides. Such a scheme requires the same or slightly different contour lengths. Thermostats can be connected to power grids directly or through an RCD, which is much safer.

To lay power cables, either a groove in the wall or an additional protective corrugation is used.

It should be borne in mind that at the time of the initial connection the machines must be in the off position. Carefully look at which wire to which phase should be connected. An alternative installation scheme (without a concrete screed) will be disassembled a little further. For now, let's just say that its main options are placing pipes in polystyrene foam grooves, or in grooves made of wood. It's time to see how the pipes of the water-heated floor will be laid.

Laying technology

Modern technology for installing underfloor heating involves laying pipes with special fixing profiles. The profiles themselves are attached to the base with dowels or screws. The advantage of this solution is that the profile is supplied with clamps during production. You do not need to carefully measure the step from one loop to another and carry out its careful calculation. A simpler option is fastening with plastic ties, pressed against the reinforcing structure.

However, the simplicity of such a scheme requires the elimination of unnecessary pulling force. Make sure that the loop is free. The coil of pipes is carefully unwound, and not immediately, but directly in the process of work. The manufacturer's instructions always dictate that the bend is gentle b along the smallest possible radius. When using polyethylene structures, it is most often 5 pipe diameters. Do not pinch the product if a whitish streak appears on it., since this means the appearance of a crease, which subsequently will easily break through and lead to flooding.

Installation according to the "snail" or "spiral" scheme is recommended for large rooms, and makes heating more even. The classic "snake" works best in small rooms, and if you want to supply heat to the floor covering in a medium-sized room, it is advisable to prefer the "double snake", in which the hot and return pipes are directed in parallel.

Whichever methods are chosen, try to reduce the number of joints between the pipes, as well as the number of their turns. Such areas, despite all the perfection of modern technology and careful execution by professionals, dramatically increase the threat of leakage. Ideally, connections should only be made at the inlet and outlet of the boiler.

For connecting pipes, in addition to the options listed above, there are also such devices:

• attracting clamp made of polyamide (2 pcs per meter);
• steel wire (similar consumption);
• stapler and 2 clamps per meter;
• fixing tracks, or PVC-based strips;
• polystyrene mats;
• aluminum distribution plates.

The rules of work indicate that regardless of the method of holding the pipes, their fixation is provided by nets with a square cell of 15x15 mm, the wire diameter is maximum 0.5 cm. By introducing modern automatic devices into the system, it is possible to make the control of the water flow going through the pipes not only independent of human factor, but also remote.

The final choice of the installation option should take place taking into account the private properties of the premises and the functionality of their individual parts. The "snake" system is designed to supply water initially to a cold area, and only then throughout the rest of the floor, for example.

When the screed under the laminate or linoleum is thinner than usual, an additional reinforcing mesh is placed directly under it above the heating pipe contour.

How to do it correctly without a concrete screed?

A long wait (about a month or even more if the weather conditions are unfavorable) does not suit everyone. A floor covering can be used instead of a concrete screed. Once you have laid the pipes, you will need to form a backing for the finished floor. If there is a laminate on top, use cardboard and polyethylene foam. Pouring under the tiles is also optional. For it, as well as for linoleum, a special structure is prepared based on cement-bonded particle boards.

A warm water floor on a wooden floor is mounted using aluminum distribution plates. The boards are preliminarily prepared, in which the necessary grooves are formed. You can make the most flat surface in the bathroom with your own hands if you lay chipboards, plywood or gypsum fiber sheets over the pipes. Always check carefully to ensure that these materials comply with health standards.

You can connect a warm water floor without a screed by laying pipes, both between the logs and on the surface of the subfloor. The modular variation (wooden blocks with milled grooves) can be replaced with a strip, in which the plywood sheet is covered with strips. The intervals between them are for the installation of pipes. Laying between the logs necessarily requires the use of waterproofing, insulation, reflective plates with holes for the passage of pipes, the pipes themselves, a sheet of plywood and the final coating.

The imposition on the flooring also implies the placement of insulation in the breaks of the logs on top of the waterproofing, and plywood or draft boards are placed above. Nuance: grind the boards so that channels for laying pipes appear. The reflective layer is made of foil attached to the boards using staples. The pipes in the channels are held by narrow metal plates placed on top, the plates themselves are also attached to the boards.

Instead of boards, you can use polystyrene mats of standard dimensions 1x0.5 m, attached to each other with a fastener in the "lock" format.

Always (regardless of the installation method of the underfloor heating) maintain a distance of 0.1 m to the wall, as this will significantly dampen the effect of thermal expansion of the floor materials. A hydrophobic coating is placed over the deck or logs. Only after this comes the turn of the formation of the final floor.

In addition to the two described options for forming a heated floor without a screed, it is allowed to use a foam or wood substrate, chipboard. Lightweight, relatively thin floors are more expensive and not very durable, but they are recommended for use:

• if necessary, lay a new coating over the old one without dismantling;
• if the height of the dwelling is limited;
• if installation speed is critical to you;
• if it is impossible to arrange the delivery of concrete properly;
• if the floor is wooden;

In addition to lightening the structure, the underfloor heating system without a screed has another indisputable advantage - it is easier to repair. Even the best pipes, laid correctly and handled with care, can suddenly burst. If you still want to use a full-fledged screed, but do not wait 28 days for complete drying, it is worth applying semi-dry mixtures. Special additives in them allow you to reduce the required amount of water, but the cost of such building materials is higher than in a simpler version.

Please note that the installation of underfloor heating without a screed is permissible only if the floor level drops are 0.2 cm for every 2 square meters of surface. If it is less even, the tightening layer, albeit the thinnest, is still necessary to create.

Possible mistakes

Even experienced home craftsmen, who for the first time undertake the installation of underfloor heating, can make serious mistakes. Often the dried concrete screed is covered with a network of cracks. The reasons for this defect are varied. You can avoid its appearance if:

• take care of the optimal density of the insulation;
• make high-quality shrinkage seams;
• do not overstate the recommended screed thickness;
• do not try to dry it too quickly, speed up the normal hardening process;
• thoroughly compact the solution and strictly observe the proportions during its formation;
• add plasticizers according to the recipe.

The minimum density of the insulation is 35 kg per cubic meter. Covering it with a polyethylene film will help prevent the concrete from drying out too quickly.

Eliminate assembly errors by 95% (except those caused by carelessness, haste and manufacturing defects) will help drawing up sketch projects. Having thought over the implementation of the system, "seeing" it on a sheet of paper, you can detect shortcomings in advance and avoid their manifestation. It is better to mark on the sketch the areas for the placement of furniture and other places where for some reason the circuit with the coolant should not pass.

The entire area to be heated is divided into sections of 15 sq m each. At any site, the step of installing the pipeline is 10 cm. A common mistake is that people do not think in time which wall is better to install the collector, or they bring it too close to some heating circuits, moving it away from others. Choose the right heat source that connects to the underfloor heating.

A comfortable life is ensured at a coolant temperature from 40 to 45 degrees, which allows you to warm the floor up to 26-30 degrees. Such heating is provided by condensing boilers, while other heating devices are not able to heat water less than 60 degrees.

Never put a heat-insulating layer on top of a warm floor and do not use carpets indoors., because these solutions will only worsen the quality of heating. Remember that polystyrene thermal insulation is dense, and it is not able to correct the unevenness of the rough screed, so from the first steps you need to do everything as accurately as possible. As for the thickness of polystyrene, contrary to the recommendations of most manufacturers, it is not required to withstand 10 cm (as a rule, even on the first floors, 8 cm is enough).

On top of the layer of thermal insulation, you should not just lay a reflective film (this is a mistake), but it should be laid out evenly and wound up behind the polystyrene around the edges... The lower material itself should be pressed more tightly against the walls through the damper tape. Do not tape the parts together, as they are intended for a completely different purpose. It can be harmful to health.

It is better to grease the edges of the blocks with glue. Another mistake that often occurs in the work of non-professionals and "shabashniks" is the different indentation of pipes from the walls. Real craftsmen make it at least 100 mm and uniform in all rooms.

If it is necessary not only to lay pipes, but also to organize the turn of the pipeline, it is imperative to bend the metal-plastic structure manually (and not with the help of springs and other auxiliary tools). Please note that the reinforcing mesh should not touch the surface of the pipes, as this is considered a gross mistake. The contours undergoing thermal contraction and expansion will constantly push the network, and it will soon be deformed and out of order.

According to experts, in the coldest parts of the room it is necessary to compact the step of laying the "snake" to 0.1 m. First of all, this is done by laying a warm floor near the outer walls. Do not try to heat more than 40 square meters of floor with one circuit. It is also worth organizing separate circuits for neighboring rooms with different temperature conditions. Installation of metal-plastic pipes under a screed is preferable to installing a pipeline made of other materials. The temperature of the coolant should increase systematically with the exit to the level you require 70-72 hours after connection.

The best installation point for the pump is the return pipe just before the boiler. Most often, expansion tanks are mounted in the highest section of the circuit, however, closed membrane systems can be performed in any other way. If you are supplying a gas boiler from a main pipeline and not from cylinders, you should obtain the approval of the local authorities. Only specially trained personnel working in licensed organizations should be involved in the work.

Loops from a single pipe with a cross section of 1.6, 1.7 or 2 cm have a minimal risk of leaks at the joints.

The average temperature of the floors of residential premises is 26 degrees, according to the current standards, and in those places where people are periodically, and a special thermal regime is required, it is 31 degrees. The highest permissible difference in heating of individual parts of the floor and coverings in different rooms is 10 degrees.

In order for the heat output to be optimal and not to force the system to work beyond measure, it is necessary to carefully level the floor.

Deviations from the plane by more than 5 mm are inadmissible... Their presence leads to overfilling of the circuits with air and unstable, ineffective heating operation. The functions of vapor and waterproofing are often performed by a polyethylene film, and its minimum thickness is 0.02 cm, otherwise it will not be possible to guarantee full protection of the insulation from dampness.

Laying of the film should be carried out with an overlap of up to 100 mm, and its borders are held by adhesive tape, which is used to cover the intersection of the floor and walls. When all the lower layers have been laid and even the pipes themselves have been installed, they need to be pressure tested in different ways, depending on the material. Thus, metal-plastic structures must be subjected to an internal pressure of 6 bar for 24 hours. Before this, the circuits are filled to 100% with water, and the air is exhausted to the end through the drain taps.

There is another option: the coolant is filled in, its temperature is brought to 80 degrees, it is kept this way for 30 minutes, after which, while maintaining the pressure pressure, a concrete screed is placed.

If the piping is made of XLPE, you will need to add water by reducing the pressure, and then repeat the test after 30 minutes. Then they wait 90 minutes, restore the previous pressure and leave the heating circuits alone for 24 hours. At the end of this pause, the pressure drop should be at most 1.5 bar.

After installing and inspecting all piping parts and accessories, take a photograph of their location and write a description with reference to landmarks. Subsequently, if it is necessary to repair the warm floor, such information will greatly simplify and speed up the work.

When you need to heat a very small area (the area around a sofa, armchair, table and other furniture, for example), flexible rolls with built-in plastic tubes are preferable. The technology allows cutting off the desired part of the roll, bending it at any angle - the main thing is that the channels for the passage of the liquid remain intact.

Compliance with these points will allow you to achieve complete success in the installation of a warm floor and enjoy its stable operation for several decades.

For information on how to make a water-heated floor with your own hands, see the next video.

For space heating, in particular the bathroom, the house is increasingly using underfloor heating systems. The most demanded types include electric and water structures of underfloor heating. The latter have a number of advantages, for example, a high level of health safety, absence of radiation, and relatively low installation costs. In addition, professional assistance in installing warm water floors and laying pipes is not necessary at all. If you adhere to certain instructions, it is quite possible to make a warm floor with your own hands. This way you can not only gain experience, but also save a significant amount of money. First you need to figure out - what is a water floor, where to take the first step, is it necessary to draw up a project?

The ideal coating option for a warm water floor will be tile or porcelain stoneware and this is due to certain characteristics of these materials:

• strength and durability;
• they do not emit harmful substances when heated;
• have a high heat capacity and heat up quickly.

But if desired, a warm floor can be equipped with laminate, linoleum, PVC tiles and even carpet.

Installation methods

Installation of a water heated floor can be done in one of the available ways:

• concrete screed - pouring must be done at least 3 cm above the pipes;
• laying pipes in pre-prepared polystyrene foam grooves. After laying the pipes, a screed is made;
• laying in wooden grooves - most often used in wooden houses with wooden floors.

Laying underfloor heating under a concrete screed

Laying underfloor heating pipes in wooden grooves

Laying underfloor heating pipes in polystyrene foam grooves

Types of pipes used

Pipes are sold in coils; they must be marked "for heating". This guarantees temperature resistance up to 95 ° C and pressure up to 10 bar. The optimum diameter is 20 mm. As a rule, they offer a choice of metal-plastic or polypropylene. The latter tend to expand linearly when heated. Glass fiber reinforcement can reduce this indicator. The maximum length of the pipe loop for a bathroom or other room is 90 meters. But it is better not to exceed the flow rate of 60 m. If the area is too large, then when drawing up a project, it is preferable to calculate the number of separate circuits. Provided that the length of each does not exceed 60 meters.

Pipes for water underfloor heating

Laying of pipes for a warm water floor is carried out according to the scheme:

• snail or spiral - ideal for a large room, promotes uniform heating. Pipes are laid from the center in a spiral, parallel to each other;
• snake - often used for small spaces. At the beginning of the circuit, there will be the highest temperature, therefore, laying starts from the wall with a window;
• double snake - optimal for medium-sized premises. The peculiarity lies in the fact that the hot pipe is laid in parallel with the return, which allows the heat to be distributed evenly.

Every pipe connection carries a risk of leakage. Therefore, the less frequent they are, the less likely the floor will be dismantled in the coming years. If conditions permit, it is correct to make connections only at the outlet and at the inlet to the boiler.

The pipes are fastened to the reinforced screed using fastening tapes, clips or wire every meter. To minimize the risk of leakage, pipes should not be joined at bends. When the installation is finished, they can be connected to the boiler.

Calculation and design

In order to achieve maximum efficiency and trouble-free operation of the heating system in the future, it is optimal to entrust the project to specialists. Due to the lack of experience, it will be quite difficult to make a project on your own. The calculation of the pipe for the heated bathroom floor depends on:

• diameter and material from which they are made;
• power of the boiler heating water;
• the quality of the selected thermal insulation;
• the area of ​​the room where the system is mounted;
• material of walls and floors.

With the help of a special program, a diagram must be drawn up to determine the level of heat loss. The result can vary from 40 to 300 W / m 2. A high indicator indicates a large loss of heat. Under such conditions, no more than 15 cm should be a step between the pipes. If the room has thick, warm walls and high-quality windows without cracks, the result of the calculations will be minimal. Then the step between the pipes can be increased to 30 cm.

Underfloor heating calculation option

If there are areas in the room where heavy furniture or plumbing will invariably stand, if the bathroom is insulated, then there is no need to lay pipes under them. This also affects the project and installation schemes for the future warm water floor.

The continuous section of the pipe contour can be no more than 40 m 2. Exceeding the recommended area will inevitably lead to cracking of the screed. The reason for this is the high heat load.

A warm water floor cake looks like this:

• if there is soil under the floor: compacted sand up to 7 cm, about 10 cm of crushed stone, the size of granules of which must be at least 30 mm, a polyethylene film and a rough screed. In the event that the room to be insulated is located above the first floor, the first layer of the pie is the floor slab;
• coating or pasting waterproofing;
• an individually calculated layer of thermal insulation, as well as insulation with the addition of foil to prevent heat transfer downward;
• reinforced screed on which the pipes will be laid;
• polypropylene, polyethylene or metal-plastic pipes;
• depending on the type of installation chosen, the next step is a concrete screed or wooden, polystyrene structures;
• final floor covering.

Manifold cabinet

It is the first element of the system assembly diagram. Installed in the wall of a heated room, preferably in the center. The main task is to ensure the circulation of hot and cold water. This is ensured by two pipes connected to it: supply and return. The supply, which is also hot, is responsible for the flow of heat along the circuit. After going all the way, the water cools down and through the return pipe is sent back to the boiler for heating. The pump for underfloor heating must be built into the manifold cabinet, it regulates the circulation of water to the boiler and back. Rarely, but there are models that do not use a pump for underfloor heating, then the purchase of a pump should be included in the project so that the structure is complete.

Collector in the water floor system

On the reverse side of the collector, there must be an air vent and a drain cock. The manifold can only be equipped with conventional shut-off valves or a control mixer will be built into it. The latter will be significantly more expensive.

In the collector cabinet, the supply and return pipes from the boiler are connected to the pipes of the water underfloor heating system

A thermostatic mixer is responsible for the function of mixing hot and cold water from the return circuit. There are different types of mixer:

• two-way mixer - usually in the amount of two pieces they are installed on the supply and return pipes;
• three-way mixer equipped with an electric drive. Such a mixer is installed at the outlet of the boiler;
• mixer with a mechanical drive.

An example of connecting a floor heating collector

Which mixer from the presented options differs not only in functionality, but also in price. Not everyone can buy an expensive mixer. But such a purchase will be justified by a guarantee and quality.

Temperature control device

To automate and simplify the operation of the underfloor heating system, a servo drive and a thermostat are used. These elements have a direct relationship. The thermostat device controls and monitors, the servo receives the command and executes. The servo drive is responsible for the function - to control the start of the amount of hot water supplied to the circuit, a servo drive is installed on the water supply comb, and this will be controlled by the servo drive.

A thermostat for a water heated floor can control the temperature regime of not only water, but also air. On the device itself, you must set the desired number of degrees. In case of excessive heating or cooling, the thermostat will give a command, and the servo drive will reduce or increase the supply of the coolant, thereby regulating the temperature. So the heat level will always be in one mode, and the thermostat will control it.

Thermostat

Regulators on the market differ not only in the way of control, but also in price. Each device has several advantages.

Thermostat	Advantages	Price
Mechanical thermostat	The device has a low price, reliability. The temperature setting is carried out using a mechanical disc. Its displacement in a certain direction sends commands to the servos. The on and off button is responsible for starting. The instructions for use are extremely simple.	? 15 €
Electronic thermostat	The thermostat has a digital screen where the current temperature or the set temperature is displayed, as well as buttons for changing the indicators by acting on the servos.	? 20 €
Programmable thermostat	The device allows you to set the desired temperature of water and air at a certain time. For example, reduce the pressure when there is no one in the room and increase it by the time people return. Significantly saves energy. It can be programmed using a portable control panel or remotely using a computer.	from 40 € and more
Touch thermostat	The only difference from the electronic one is the touch control for influencing the servos.	? 30-40 €
Radio thermostat	Refers to a number of innovations. Completely automated. The device can be connected to a mobile phone and remotely send commands to the servos.	from 50 € and more

Underfloor heating installation

To make a warm water floor with your own hands, first of all, you must completely remove the old floor covering to the ground or floor slab. After the previous screed is dismantled, all debris, construction dust, and foreign materials should be removed. You can level the surface using special leveling compounds. If the room to be insulated is located above the first floor, the floor slab will be leveled. Often, after dismantling the floor, small cracks and chips remain on it, which must be eliminated. Provided that the base is a primer, the leveling compound will be applied as a rough screed. Such a solution can be made from cement or gypsum. Next, there are a number of mandatory processes for a warm water floor.

Stages of installation of a warm water floor

Waterproofing and insulation

The next step is to cover with waterproofing and thermal insulation layers. For the latter, you can pick up mineral wool, penoplex, expanded polystyrene or special mats or materials for a water floor. Waterproofing prevents moisture absorption, while thermal insulation traps heat, preventing it from escaping into the ground or downstairs. To compensate for the expansion of the rough screed, which occurs due to frequent temperature differences, a damper tape should be distributed around the entire perimeter. Any project provides for an optimal width of 15 cm.

Option for thermal insulation

Damper tape

You can purchase a ready-made damper tape, which should be glued around the perimeter of the room. Most often, the thickness of this material is from 5 to 8 mm, and the height is from 10 to 15 cm.

The height of the tape must be above the filling level; in case of excess, it is easy to cut them off with an ordinary knife. If you are doing the work yourself, then it is best to stick the tape or, if possible, fix it with self-tapping screws. Installation is very simple and will not cause any particular difficulties.

Damper tape

Reinforcement

The first layer of reinforcing mesh is laid on the insulation, to which the contours will subsequently be attached, distributing heat over the floor surface. An ordinary wire is used to attach the pieces of mesh to each other. With the help of nylon clamps, the pipes are fastened to the mesh.

It is worth choosing a mesh in such a way that the diameter of the rods is 4-5 mm, and the cells must be selected taking into account the step of laying the pipes, so that it is convenient to fasten them.

Floor reinforcement

Pipe fixation methods

You can lay a warm water floor in one of the available ways:

• polyamide clamping clamp - you will need about 2 pieces per 1 meter;
• fastening steel wire - the consumption is the same as that of a polyamide clamping clamp;
• stapler and clamps - you need 2 clamps for each meter;
• fixing track - is a PVC strip attached to the floor;
• polystyrene mats - the pipe is laid in the middle of the grooves;
• distribution plate made of aluminum.

Options for fixing pipes for underfloor heating

Fasteners for pipes

Expanded polystyrene mat for underfloor heating pipes

Pipe laying and system checks

Before laying pipes, it is necessary to make a structure that will fix them. This is a reinforced mesh with cells of 1.5 x 1.5 cm. It is made of wire, no more than 5 mm in diameter. A special plastic tie is ideal for attaching pipes to the mesh. In the absence of such, you can use clips, strips for fastening. The step should not exceed 1 m. When the installation is completed, you can start laying pipes according to a pre-drawn diagram. They can be arranged in a spiral, snake or double snake shape. Depends on how the project is drawn up. To calculate the flow, you should take into account the size of the bathroom and the step between the pipes.

Due to the increase in heat loss at the outer walls, the pipe spacing in these places should be reduced. Otherwise, a decrease in pressure in the entire system can be triggered.

Laying schemes for a water-heated floor

At the end of the work and before the finishing screed is made, the structure must be checked for strength. To do this, it is recommended to start water under pressure more than usual, but not exceeding 0.6 MPa. After half an hour, the indicator should drop to the level of 0.06 MPa. After another two hours, up to 0.02 MPa. The figures shown are the maximum threshold. The result may exceed them, but in no case be less. Then, using a mixer, adjust the pressure to normal and leave the system in working order for a day. The temperature should remain constant. If, after 24 hours, no incidents have occurred, you can finally fill the floor. It can be a concrete screed or a covering with polystyrene plates.

Connecting circuits

Often, the circuits are connected through a distribution unit that performs a number of useful functions, including increasing the pressure in the system, regulating the temperature, and combining together with radiators.

There are several possible connection schemes to the boiler:

• with manual adjustment;
• with weather automation;
• auto adjustment using sensors and servo drives.

Clamping fittings "Eurocones" are used to connect the pipes.

Scheme - an example of connecting a water heated floor

Crimping

After the installation of all circuits, the mandatory process of pneumatic testing of the system for leaks follows. This will help crimping carried out using compression.

The test will require a domestic compressor with a pressure greater than 6 bar. After the pressure has reached 4 bar, the compressor must be left in this state until the system is started. With this method, it is easy to notice even the slightest depressurization and then it can be eliminated in time to avoid problems in the future.

Underfloor heating screed

Depending on the type of flooring you are planning, the thickness of the concrete layer may vary. It is not difficult to calculate it. A layer of at least 4-5 cm must be poured under the tile, and 1.5-2 cm is enough under linoleum or laminate. Moreover, in this case, experts strongly recommend placing another reinforced mesh on top, as a reinforcement of the structure. The concrete screed must be carried out with the system switched on, under pressure. The cement used in this layer must be at least 300 grade. Drying period is at least 28 days. The greater the consumption of the solution and the thicker the layer, the longer it will take to dry. Only after that you can start finishing. Learn the process in more detail before starting work.

For those who cannot or do not accept to wait almost a month before the end of the work, the concrete fill can be replaced with a floor covering. It will be even easier to make a warm floor with your own hands. In such conditions, after laying the pipes, it is necessary to make a backing under the finishing floor. Cardboard or expanded polyethylene is suitable if laminate flooring is planned. A special structure made of cement-bonded particle boards is mounted under linoleum or tiles.

Due to the absence or incorrect position of the temperature gaps, destruction of the screed in the bathroom may occur. To prevent this from happening, shrinkage seams are necessary. They are done in the following cases:

• in a room with an area of ​​more than 30 sq m;
• if the walls are more than 8 meters long;
• if the length and width of the room differ by more than two times;
• the room has a curved shape.

Expansion joints - correct laying of the warm floor

To make such a seam, a damper tape is laid around the perimeter, and the reinforcing mesh is divided at the seam site. The top of the joint, which should be 10 mm thick in the base, is sealed with a sealant.

If pipes pass through the expansion joints, then they must be laid in a corrugated pipe.

After drying, cracks may appear on the screed, and this happens for a number of reasons:

• low density of insulating material;
• poor compaction of the solution used;
• lack of plasticizers;
• large screed thickness;
• quick drying of the concrete mix;
• lack of shrinkage seams;
• non-compliance with the proportions when preparing the solution.

The consequences of improper installation of the screed are cracks

To prevent cracking, you need:

• use insulation with a density of more than 35-40 km per cubic meter;
• add fiber and plasticizer to the screed solution;
• in large rooms, one cannot do without shrinkage seams;
• cover the concrete with plastic wrap to prevent it from drying out too quickly.

Screed mortar

To prepare a screed solution for a warm water floor, you cannot do without a plasticizer, only it must be not air-entraining. To make a good solution, you should adhere to the following proportions.

Using 10 liters of cement, you get 41 liters of mortar.

Installation on a wooden floor

Installation of a warm water floor on a wooden floor is quite possible. This requires aluminum distribution plates and the pipes are placed in wooden grooves prepared by attaching pre-prepared planks.

If it is necessary to make a flat surface in the bathroom, then a layer of chipboard, plywood or gypsum fiber board should be placed above the laid pipes. When choosing these materials, care must be taken that they comply with sanitary and hygienic standards.

Features of a warm floor in a wooden house

Prices for water heated floor

The following factors influence the cost of warm water floors:

• the cost of the materials used;
• the cost of the manifold and the pumping and mixing unit;
• work on leveling the bases;
• installation cost.

The average cost of a turnkey water heat-insulated floor together with materials can range from 1,500 to 3,000 rubles per sq. M. A do-it-yourself floor heating in a bathroom is a significant step for warming a bathroom. Using the help of specialists to draw up a project and diagrams of the heating system, purchase the necessary materials, installation can be carried out independently. To avoid leaks and unforeseen malfunctions in the structure, it is important to correctly follow all the recommendations and follow the values ​​that the drawn up project contains step by step. Modern innovations and materials allow remote control of the warm water bathroom floors. It is not only convenient, but also beneficial, especially when there is an instruction.