What primer for carbon film. Ways to wrap a car with a film
This clear, yellowish liquid is used to increase the tack of a wide variety of self-adhesive materials. talking technical language, enhances the initial adhesion of the adhesive layers.
Where applied.
The scope of application is not limited by anything, except for the recommendations of the manufacturer (3M), which, by the way, is a recognized leader around the world. Recommendations mean allowed materials on the surface of which the film is glued. This:- Polyethylene.
- Thermoplastic resin (aka ABS).
- PET (polyethylene terephthalate) and PBT (polybutylene terephthalate).
- Metals.
- Smooth concrete surfaces.
- Wood.
- Glass.
- Painted surfaces.
So, in any area where the above materials are available, this drug can be used.
Why is it necessary.
Despite the fact that the self-adhesive base of the films is quite effective when applied to a flat plane, the adhesive effect at the edges is insufficient. As a result, the edges of the film peel off and curl. To prevent this from happening, apply a primer, smearing it with problem areas. But this is on a flat plane, but if it has bends, concavities and concavities, then it is generally impossible to do without this drug.The film is not only elastic, but also resilient. Therefore, it tries to take its original (even) appearance, which means that in all concave places it tries to peel off from the surface. The same happens around curved places.
The use of a primer ensures excellent adhesion of the film to the surface, even in the most difficult places.
How to use.
1. It is recommended to preliminarily degrease and clean the places to be glued from dirt. To do this, it is desirable to use isopropyl alcohol in half with water.2. Let the cleaned areas dry thoroughly.
3. How to shake the contents of the jar so that the drug takes on a homogeneous structure.
4. Evenly apply a layer of primer to the prepared areas of the surface to be glued. The layer should be thin and uniform in thickness throughout the entire area. For application, you can use any suitable tool (brush, sponge, etc.).
5. Leave for 5-7 minutes until completely dry.
Then you can start directly pasting, however, in some cases it is recommended to apply the 2nd layer of the preparation before this. For example, if the surface has a porous structure and the 1st layer is partially absorbed inside.
Naturally, the 2nd layer also needs to be allowed to dry.
If it becomes necessary to remove the applied primer layer, then this can be done using the same isopropyl alcohol.
Specifications.
The product has an amber tint and a pronounced solvent odor.It is stored for 1 year, subject to simple requirements - that it be in tightly closed original packaging.
Produced in metal cans of 0.946 and 0.237 liters.
.
3M Film Primer 94 is used to improve the adhesion of vinyl films to surfaces such as polyethylene, polypropylene, ABS, concrete, wood, glass, metal and painted metal surfaces.
Please note that initially the primer is supplied in our store in liter cans, and then it is filled into 30 ml glass bottles.
Price: 500 rubles.
In garbage
Surface preparation: The application surface must be clean and dry. Contaminated surfaces should be cleaned with a 50/50 solution of isopropyl alcohol and water, then wiped with a clean cloth.
Application: Shake primer 3M Primer 94 before use. Apply a thin, even coat to the surface, using the minimum amount that will completely cover the surface. Let the primer dry before applying the film. This usually takes 5 minutes at room temperature. Be careful, the primed surface must be kept clean before pasting the film. Porous surfaces may need to be re-treated for uniform coverage and good adhesion. Let the primer dry before reapplying. You can use a brush or swab to apply the primer.
Clean: 3M Primer 94 can be removed from the surface with isopropyl alcohol. It may take some effort.
Note: Read the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Observe precautions!
Primer 3M or in other words the adhesion promoter is a clear liquid with a pungent odor.
What is the primer 3M 94 for?!
This product, which still has no analogues from other manufacturers, was developed by 3M, a world leader in the manufacture of auto accessories, chemicals, etc. Its main purpose is to enhance the adhesive effect of films, adhesive tapes or other self-adhesive materials. Primer 3M 94 is an indispensable assistant when pasting a car with a film! No serious work can do without it.
Why do you need Primer 3M 94 when pasting a car with a film ?!
Primer 3M 94 in original packaging.
All car styling films have a self-adhesive base, everyone knows this. Why then a primer, you ask?! It's simple, in those places where the film is stretched, its adhesive layer also stretches and thins, for every centimeter of the covered surface - there is less glue, the film needs to be helped to stay on the body, and then the 3M primer comes into force! This is especially necessary when pasting concave planes! Having smeared the pre-pasted area with a 3m primer, we are reinsured from the unpleasantness that often arises if this is not done. Especially at the edges of parts, the carbon film likes to peel off, and in the recesses it swells, which is why you need to use a 3M primer.
What to do if the film under the carbon peeled off?!
We are often asked this question. This situation can be fixed without the need to re-glue the auto parts if you notice it during the time. Particulary if the film peeled off on the 2nd, 3rd day after pasting and you immediately noticed it - you need to carefully bend the peeled off film (but if the location is heavily polluted and dust or even dirt has already adhered to the film, it's too late to save the situation), wipe the area under the film, then apply primer 3m 94 and, after waiting 5 minutes for the Primer to dry, stick the film.
Technical information Primer 94 3M:
Product description:
Primer 94 can be used to improve adhesion to surfaces such as polyethylene, polypropylene, ABS, PET/PBT combination, concrete, wood, glass, metal and painted metal surfaces.
Physical properties:
Surface preparation:
The area to which Primer 94 is to be applied must be clean and dry. A 1:1 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water is recommended for cleaning contaminated surfaces.
Application:
Shake the bottle of Primer 94 before use. Apply a thin, uniform layer to the surface to be bonded, using the minimum amount necessary to evenly cover the entire area. Allow Primer 94 to dry before bonding. It usually takes 5 minutes under conditions room temperature. Make sure that the area to which the Primer is to be applied is free of contaminants.
For porous surfaces, it may be necessary to reapply Primer 94 to achieve uniformity and good adhesion. In this case it is necessary to let the first coat of Primer 94 dry before applying the second coat.
Primer 94 can be applied with a brush or swab.
Cleaning:
To remove Primer 94 use .*
Shelf life:
12 months from receipt by the customer subject to the following conditions:
The primer is kept in its original packaging.
The package (jar) is tightly closed to prevent evaporation of the solvent.
Use Primer 94 3M when pasting cars, phones, laptops and other devices, and be sure that the film will not peel off tomorrow!
With uv. Arsen Mailyan
As you know, the fundamental principle of successful painting is priming. The soil is a kind of foundation on which all further layers are built. paintwork, both factory and repair.
Most of the mistakes made by masters at the priming stage are associated not so much with the lack of painting skills (they just come very quickly), but with a lack of knowledge about the properties of various primers, with insufficient awareness of the right tricks work with a particular product. Like it or not, but complexity modern system repair soil affects.
Indeed, every reputable manufacturer of repair materials today offers a wide range of primers. Let's try to understand this diversity and answer the question: is it always necessary to use a primer, and if so, which one to choose in each case.
Today you will know
Soil (from the German Grund - base, soil) - covering the base, an intermediate layer on which paints are applied.
Big encyclopedic dictionary
I would like to start talking about the primers used in car repair with brief digression to an automobile manufacturer: let's see what operations precede body painting on the conveyor and why a primer is needed at all. As they say, everything is easier to know in comparison.
Before entering the paint shop from the tin body, the car body is first of all thoroughly degreased and washed to get rid of the contaminants obtained during the rolling of steel and the manufacture of the body on the conveyor.
Then the body is sent for chemical treatment - phosphating. This procedure is carried out by immersing the body in a phosphating solution, after which a thinnest film from iron and zinc phosphates, which protects the metal from corrosion and provides high adhesion both to the metal itself and to subsequent layers of the system.
Degreasing and phosphating is also mandatory for galvanized sheets, which are now increasingly used in the manufacture of bodywork and its parts.
After phosphating, the body is again washed and dried, after which a layer of water-borne primer with anti-corrosion additives is applied. Application is carried out by the method of cathodic or anodic deposition. In the first case, the process is called cataphoresis, in the second - anaphoresis.
Cataphoresis is better than anaphoresis - it provides more reliable anti-corrosion protection of welds and hidden cavities. The thickness of the cataphoretic primer layer reaches 20 microns, and the application by electrodeposition ensures the formation of a uniform coating on both horizontal and vertical surfaces, they are perfectly primed and hard-to-reach places, hidden cavities, cracks.
To date, there are practically no anaphoretic installations for painting bodies, they have all been replaced by cataphoretic ones.
Next, the cataphoretic layer undergoes high-temperature drying (180 ° C), after which another, last primer is applied to it - leveling. It performs a dual function: firstly, it fills and smoothes micro-roughnesses, creating a homogeneous substrate for enamel, and secondly, it serves as a kind of damper that protects the paint from chips and cracks. Unlike cataphoresis, the leveling primer does not protect against corrosion.
Finally, after drying and sanding, a decorative coating is applied to the primed surface.
Body at the factory (BMW 7 series)
Conveyor technologies are the best illustration of the fact that it is impossible (at least for now) to combine anti-corrosion, leveling, cushioning and decorative functions in one material at a sufficiently high quality level. Even the most modern car enamels will not provide a high-quality and durable result without careful preparation surface, without forming a reliable basis for a decorative coating.
And now it's time to move on to main topic of our conversation - repair primers.
Primers for car refinishing
Like the primers used on the conveyor, all primers for repair painting are divided into two large groups:
- primary - the so-called primers (from the English prime - main, main),
- secondary - fillers (from the English fill - fill, fill).
The materials used in repair painting differ from those used at the factory (in terms of application method, drying conditions, viscosity, surface preparation method, etc.). But the functions are exactly the same. Primary ones are needed to protect the metal from corrosion and ensure a strong adhesion of the paintwork to the surface of the part. Secondary - for leveling minor irregularities of the painted surface, creating a homogeneous substrate for enamel and protecting the paintwork from chipping.
There are primers that have the properties of both primers and fillers at the same time. Naturally, different materials are also used for applying to metal and plastic.
But first things first. Let's start with primary primers for metal.
Primary primers (primers)
The primary primer is also etching, it is also anti-corrosion, it is also adhesive. Areas of its application - areas of bare metal, places most susceptible to corrosion.
Such primers have excellent adhesion to metal, because one should not forget that in addition to the protective one, the primary primer performs another, no less important function: on it, as on a foundation, the entire repair system is built, the main requirement for which is good adhesion of each subsequent material with the previous one. Therefore, replacing this material or eliminating it can lead to the fact that the entire system will crumble like a house of cards.
Ensuring good adhesion is only half the task that the primary primer solves. Equally important are its anti-corrosion properties.
It would seem that today, when most cars are painted using a two-layer system (base + varnish), and the varnish layer is durable and practically waterproof, anti-corrosion primer is not so necessary.
Indeed, if you paint an iron fence with modern car enamel, then the metal will remain for many, many years. But we do not paint fences, but car bodies, and the situation with them is much more complicated.
The point is that thin steel sheets, of which the bodies are made, are subjected to constant alternating loads during operation, especially at the joints where mechanical stresses are maximum. And since upper layer varnish in order to avoid abrasion and scratching should have a high hardness, then sooner or later microcracks form in it, which, gradually developing inward, reach the surface of the metal.
Then the matter is small: water under high capillary pressure penetrates to the metal and on a seemingly undisturbed layer of enamel, for no reason at all, an ugly red smudge appears ... And if such places are polished, rust centers up to several centimeters in size will be found.
Things are completely different when using anti-corrosion primer on bare metal. Now the development of a crack will be stopped at its boundary, since cracks do not form in the soil itself - due to its very small application thickness (about 10 microns).
But an attempt to apply a thick layer of anti-corrosion primer, on the contrary, will lead to a decrease in its strength and adhesion properties. This is just one of those cases when porridge can be thoroughly spoiled with oil. Therefore, only one thin layer, which is also not worth grinding.
Acidic
Primary primers based on polyvinyl butyral (as it sounds!) have the best combination of anti-corrosion and adhesive properties today. They can be single-component (1K), but two-component (2K) PVB primers are more often used (read what are one- and two-component coatings).
as a catalyst chemical reaction for these soils, a mixture based on phosphoric acid. That is why such soils are also called acidic or acid-containing, as well as reactive (because they enter into a chemical reaction with the surface), wash primers (from the English wash - clean), phosphating, etc. (lovers of belles-lettres should be delighted).
Such primers dry quickly, have excellent adhesion to any alloys used in the automotive industry (ordinary and galvanized steel, non-ferrous metals, etc.), and perfectly protect against corrosion due to the formation of a film of insoluble phosphates on the metal surface (almost like at the factory).
The process of adhesion of acid soil to the metal surface proceeds quite aggressively, one might say, at the molecular level. Therefore, its use can be especially recommended in areas of metal with hard-to-reach places of corrosion. To some extent, the "acid" acts as a rust converter that does not require rinsing with water.
It is strictly forbidden to putty surfaces treated with acid primers, since during the curing of polyester putty an active chemical reaction occurs that destroys the primer film. At the same time, the opposite operation, when the “acid” is applied to the hardened putty to protect the bare metal around the repair area, is possible without problems.
By the way, is it possible to do without etching anti-corrosion primers? Sometimes you can, but more on that later.
In the meantime, let's talk about the primers applied immediately after the anti-corrosion ones.
Secondary primers (fillers)
Secondary soil - it is also a filler, it is also a filler, it is also a leveler. From the name itself, the ability of these soils to fill small bumps on the surface of the repaired elements.
The alignment function is more relevant for a car service than for a factory - after all, smooth metal is used at the factory, here and in nightmare I don’t dream of such a thickness of soil, which is necessary to level out irregularities on surfaces covered with putty. Therefore, in a car workshop, where you mainly have to deal with putty parts, the secondary primer becomes in the full sense of the leveler: it must hide all the pores and craters present on the putty, the risks left by abrasive processing, the transition points of coatings from one to another, etc. .d.
At the same time, the primer-filler also acts as an insulator of a heterogeneous repaired surface from aggressive solvents that are part of the cover enamels, and also provides high adhesion both to the repaired surface and to the paint. Every refinish system has a base acrylic two-component (2K) primer that solves all of these problems.
And even though some shortcomings remain on the surface after priming, but, firstly, they are not as pronounced as on the paint (due to the high density of the leveling primer) and, secondly, it is polished before painting. The large thickness of primers-levelers allows their grinding to a depth of 30-40 microns, which makes it possible to significantly improve the flatness of the repaired element. The surface is smooth, uniform and with the desired roughness - beauty!
Sanded and non-sanded
All secondary primers can be divided into two types:
- traditional sanded - designed for final alignment puttied areas with subsequent grinding;
- non-sanding - designed to work “wet on wet”, when the entire part is primed from edge to edge and almost immediately, without grinding, a decorative coating is applied.
The latter are indispensable in preparing for painting new elements or those that have already been used, but do not have defects (that is, unfilled). allows to exclude drying and grinding of the filler primer, and, accordingly, to reduce the time and materials spent on these operations.
The main technological characteristics of "wet" primers are, firstly, excellent spreadability: they form a very smooth surface suitable for applying enamels without preliminary grinding, and secondly, the minimum holding time before applying paint. For such materials, it is usually 15-20 minutes, after which a cover enamel can be applied to the primed surface and finally dried together with a primer.
Wet-on-wet primers are usually labeled "Wet on wet", "w/w", "non sanding", etc.
Many secondary primers, depending on the mixing ratio with the thinner, can be applied with equal success in both sanded and wet-on-wet versions.
Thick (high build)
Standard leveling primers are applied in 2-3 layers, while providing a total coating thickness in the range of 100-150 microns. In most cases, this thickness is sufficient.
For comparison, the maximum depth of the mark left by the abrasive grain of the P180 grade material is 8-10 microns.
But there are products on the market that allow you to achieve even greater thickness - up to 250-300 (!) Microns in three passes, which is commensurate only with liquid putty.
Such thick-layer soils are convenient to use during complex restoration repairs, when large areas and damaged parts.
In such cases, the use of a "thick" primer makes it possible to completely exclude liquid putty from the technological chain, and not only with an unconditional increase in the quality of the resulting surface, but also with a significant reduction in time and labor costs: after all, before painting a part on which liquid putty is applied, its must first dry, sand the putty and prime again on top. And High Build soils do not need this.
Colored (tinted) primers
Wouldn't want to bypass this interesting feature modern secondary primers as a possibility of touching up. Tinting allows, firstly, to increase the hiding power of top coats and reduce their consumption, and secondly, to obtain shades as close as possible to the factory primers, which means that the repaired part cannot be distinguished from the factory one even by chips that appear during the operation of the car. Such requirements are imposed by owners of serious, expensive cars.
In addition, when using a substrate that is close in shade to the cover enamel, these chips will not be so noticeable and will not cause significant damage to the appearance of the car (as, for example, when using white or white on a dark car). yellow soil). This means that the repair of these chips can be postponed to a more convenient time for the owner.
Also, tinted primer can be successfully used to simulate the factory painting of the engine compartment and internal cavities. After all, the pursuit of savings has already led to the fact that many manufacturers have ceased not only to varnish the engine compartment, but also do not apply paint there at all, limiting themselves only to colored primer (the so-called under-hood coating). This is especially common among Japanese and Korean cars (for example, "Nissan" is blue metallic, and under the hood is blue matte "non-metallic"). AvtoVAZ recently also switched to a similar technology.
In this case, tinted in desired color soil saves us from wasting time and excess expense materials, since without it we would have to first apply a filler primer, and then an enamel with a matting additive.
Tinting is carried out both by adding enamels or pigment pastes to the soil, and by mixing soils various colors among themselves (naturally, the soils must be of the same manufacturer).
For example, proportional mixing of white and black primers makes it possible to obtain a material of any gray shade (according to the Value Shade scale), which will help reduce the number of paint layers, which means reducing its consumption and reducing repair time.
Some manufacturers offer whole systems of colored primers. One of these is the development of Sikkens - the Colorbuild system of colored primers, which includes primers of six colors (red, blue, yellow, green, black and white). By mixing these primers, it is possible to obtain a substrate of 46 different colors without the addition of expensive tinting components of top coats.
in cans
One more interesting material- one-component primer-leveler, produced in aerosol cans. He earned special sympathy of the masters when used in the case when the ground was pierced at several points on a part already ready for painting. In this case, the aerosol primer saves a lot of time that would have to be spent on diluting the primer, filling it into the spray gun and washing after work. After that, the applied primer must also be dried.
With the help of a primer in a can, this work can be done in a minute, then the primer dries in 5-10 minutes, then light sanding - and the defect is gone.
Epoxy primers
Continuing the conversation about primers, we, as promised above, will answer the question - is it possible to do without etching primers in the painting business?
It turns out that it is possible if you use soil based on epoxy resins. Epoxy primer can also be classified as anti-corrosion materials. Only unlike acid-containing primers that protect the metal through a chemical reaction, epoxy primer provides physical protection: due to its tough and rather thick film, it reliably blocks the access of moisture and oxygen to the metal.
So your protective functions these two soils perform, albeit in different ways, but equally well. What then are the advantages of epoxy primer over acid primers? When and why to use it?
As you know, the usual anti-corrosion primer can only be applied on top of the putty, but not under it. But in this case, it turns out that the metal will be protected only around the putty area, and there will be no additional protection under the putty itself.
And then it is enough to have a microcrack in the metal, as water, due to capillary effects, tends to get under the putty layer with inside. And since putty is hygroscopic, absorbing this moisture, it begins to swell, and a freshly painted car will soon literally bloom with ugly bubbles, the size of which can exceed the diameter of a five-ruble coin. That's already painted so painted!
How to protect the putty from moisture entering from the inside? This is where epoxy primer comes to the rescue: first, a layer of epoxy primer is applied to the metal, and putty work is already carried out on it.
Epoxy primer is the only anti-corrosion material that can be applied under polyester putty - no more bubbles! This technology is used in top quality painting systems and allows you to bring the warranty on painted elements to seven years or more!
Epoxy primers not only have excellent adhesion to a wide variety of surfaces (galvanized, galvanized steel, aluminum and all its alloys, stainless steel, fiberglass), they are also a good substrate for top coats (due to their good filling properties and good spreadability). Therefore, you can cover the putty areas with a couple more layers of epoxy - and after grinding the part is ready for painting. Note that this is not the only possible variant in this case, read about the rest in the article on priming.
Liquid putty is also recommended to be applied specifically to the epoxy primer and topped off with another layer of epoxy primer - like a sandwich. Also, this primer works well on fiberglass, and also as an insulator of old problematic coatings.
And if you treat the edges and ends of the elements with this primer, you can forget about chips and undermining of paint in these places, as well as their premature corrosion. After all, it is the ends of the doors that often rust faster than the rest of the surface. This happens because modern coatings to improve decorative properties (reduce shagreen) have a high coefficient surface tension, which leads to stretching of the paint on the edges and ends of the elements with a corresponding decrease in its thickness.
It is not advisable to use two different anti-corrosion primers during the repair process on one element. At the same time, most manufacturers categorically prohibit applying epoxy primer over acidic.
However, these soils also have some disadvantages due to their very properties - increased strength and toughness. Because of this, epoxy primers are more difficult to process than conventional fillers. Also, epoxy primer can sometimes cause contouring during stain repairs - again, due to its increased rigidity.
And the maximum thickness of their application is much lower than that of acrylic primers, which requires very High Quality surface treatment of parts, which is far from achievable in every "paint brush". Therefore, epoxy primer performs best when used as a primary primer, followed by the application of a filler primer.
Insulating primers of incompatible coatings (sealers)
When restoring repairs, in most cases we have to deal with already painted parts, including those that have previously been repaired, perhaps more than once. And here the question arises about the compatibility of the old and new coatings, since the origin of the materials of the old repair coating is unknown to us. And although no one has been painting with nitro enamels for a hundred years, as, indeed, with cheap repair "Cadolins", in car repair practice there may still be coatings that, by their properties, belong to thermoplastic materials (soften when heated or in contact with solvents).
To isolate such coatings, there are so-called insulating primers or sealers (from the English seal - to seal, isolate). They will help to play it safe and avoid problems associated with the conflict of the old and new coatings (swelling, loss of adhesion, contouring).
To check the coating for thermoplasticity before starting work on "used" parts, it is enough to carry out one simple test. Take a rag soaked in solvent and leave it on the old coating or where the paint is damaged. If after a couple of minutes the coating has softened (the nail leaves traces on it), then it should be removed or isolated.
In many systems, primers that are intended for wet-on-wet painting have the properties of insulators. Some of them are transparent and can be tinted, they can be used both as substrates directly under the enamel, and with the subsequent application of a filler.
As already mentioned, epoxy primer is also an excellent insulator for old coatings.
Adhesion primers for plastics
Drawing parallels with anti-corrosion primers applied to metal and creating strong adhesive bonds with it, in the case of painting plastic parts, special adhesive primers for plastic are used for these purposes.
Such a primer is usually a very liquid transparent substance with small additions of "silver" (to control application). The layer thickness is minimal - only a few microns. Basically, these are ready-to-use one-component materials.
As a rule, such primers are universal and applicable, if not to all, then to most types of plastic used in the automotive industry. You can specify this in the instructions for the product, and you can find out the type of plastic from which the part is made by marking on its inside.
Most often, this is a plastic of the polypropylene group, always referred to as PP in the first letters. For example: >PP/EPDMC<, >PP/PD< и т.п. Можно с уверенностью утверждать, что около 80% всех plastic parts car (bumpers, hoods, fenders, interior parts) are made of this type of plastic. The use of a plastic primer on such parts is mandatory.
New original plastic parts may already be primed. Such parts do not need re-priming.
The spectrum of all soils is of course not limited to these materials. To consider all their types and subspecies within the framework of the article is probably an unrealistic task. But what has been said is enough to understand how flexible and versatile the system of modern repair primers is - with their help you can solve any problem facing the painter.
Many novice pasters are interested in: what is needed for successful wrapping of parts. Since beginners tend to take a small amount of vinyl to cover one part, we recommend buying Primer 94 3M 10 ml.
What is the 3M primer for?
The primer is necessary for reliable fixation of the edges of the film. The fact is that vinyl tends to pull back. First of all, the edges may peel off. In order for the work not to go down the drain, it is necessary to use the adhesion promoter primer 3M. This liquid enhances the adhesion of the film to body parts. Since autovinyl has its own adhesive layer, only the edges and “difficult” places with deep transitions are coated with a primer.
Automobile primer 3M 94 with a capacity of 10 ml.
The capacity of the 3M 94 bottle is 10 ml. This is enough to cover the roof or hood. The cap has a brush for easy application to the edges of the film. The bottle itself is transparent, so it is easy to control the flow of liquid. For craftsmen who decide to cover several parts or the entire car, we recommend paying attention to the 100 ml primer, as it is more economical.
What surfaces can be primed with 3M 94 Primer?
The adhesion promoter 3M 94 primer is universal, so it can be applied to almost any hard surface. For example, this composition is used for better adhesion to the plastic that is found inside the cabin. The primer will help to better fix the material on wood and metal. The adhesion promoter is most widely used in car pasting, that is, it is applied to the paint surface around the perimeter of the part.
Where is Primer 94 used on the body?
Primer 94 is used in strictly defined areas of the body. This liquid is designed to help the adhesive layer of the film, and not as a replacement.
Fixing the edges of the film with a primer.
The primer's job is to keep the vinyl from shrinking. If the adhesive of the film is strong enough, then a large inversion is made, which prevents the material from shrinking. However, sometimes it is difficult or impossible to fold the edges of the vinyl onto reverse side details. In this case, the edges of the film are coated with a primer at the final stage of gluing. In addition, this liquid provides additional tightness: water and dust will not get under the autovinyl, which increases the reliability of the new coating.
Adhesion enhancer in body recesses.
In addition to fixing the perimeter of the covered element, primer 94 is necessary when working with parts that have sharp, deep transitions. Such complex body geometry is found everywhere: on the roof, doors, hood. If no adhesion promoter is used, then the film will rise in these places and appearance car will be permanently damaged. That's why it's so important to apply the primer into the recesses of the bodywork.
We especially recommend fixing the film with a primer when wrapping the bumper. This detail is very low in relation to the road. The bumper is constantly exposed to water, reagents, dirt and dust. The adhesion enhancer will significantly extend the life of the glued bumper.
