Installation of a split system: step by step instructions. Mounting Tips

Survive summer heat and the stuffiness helps air conditioning equipment and in particular split systems, which are habitually called air conditioners. The equipment is not cheap, but the worst thing is that for its installation it is required to pay an amount slightly less than for the equipment. Because many think about self-assembly. Installing an air conditioner with your own hands is possible, but there are many little things and features, ignorance of which leads to rapid wear of the equipment. Detailed step-by-step instruction will help you get things right.

Location selection

Installing an air conditioner with your own hands begins with determining the location of the equipment. Since split systems consist of two or more blocks, you will have to choose a place for both. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account how it will spread cold air in a house or apartment, as well as take into account the technical requirements.

Let's start with technical requirements. When choosing the location of the indoor unit, we take into account the following requirements:

from the block to the ceiling - at least 15 cm (for some manufacturers, at least 20-30 cm);
to the wall on the side - at least 30 cm;
to the obstacle against which the flow of cold air will break - at least 150 cm.

The outdoor unit is usually placed near a window or on open balcony, if he is. On a glazed balcony / loggia, installation on a fence (if it has sufficient bearing capacity) or next to a wall is possible. If you live on the first or second floor of a high-rise building, outdoor unit they try to put it above the level of the window - away from passers-by. On higher floors, it can be placed under a window or on the side.

If the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands is planned in a private house, a place is usually chosen based on bearing capacity walls. If there is a ventilated facade, you can use a special mount or hang the unit on the plinth, if any.

When choosing the location of the split system blocks, you must also remember that in most cases the minimum and maximum distance between the blocks is normalized. Specific figures vary by manufacturer. For example, the minimum distance can be 1.5 m, 2.5 m ( different models Daikin) and even 3 meters (Panasonic). For some manufacturers, the minimum length is not regulated, that is, it can be any. In this case, you can install the blocks "back to back". Installers call this installation method a “sandwich”.

Slightly easier is the situation with the maximum distance between two blocks. It is usually 6 meters. It may be more, but then additional refueling of the system with freon will be required, and these are additional costs, and considerable ones. Therefore, they try to invest in the required 6 meters.

What you need for self-assembly

You probably know how much it costs to install an air conditioner by specialists. When asked where such prices come from, because the work is only 3 hours, they answer that very expensive equipment and its depreciation makes up a significant share of the cost. This may be true, but most of this equipment may already be on the farm. The exception is a vacuum pump, but many crews do without it, since a normal one really costs a lot, but a bad one is of no use.

Equipment

So, to install an air conditioner with your own hands, you will need the following equipment:

For an ideal installation, a vacuum pump is needed, but usually there is nowhere to take it and on tracks up to 6 meters they do without it.

materials

To connect and install two blocks of split systems, you will need the following consumables:

This is all that is needed to install the air conditioner with your own hands.

Installation procedure and features of the work

V self installation split systems is nothing super-complicated, but there are a lot of nuances that can affect the durability and quality of the equipment. First of all, before starting work, you should carefully read the installation and operating instructions that come with the equipment. You compensate for the time spent by knowing exactly what and how to do with your air conditioner, because there are some nuances.

Start - mount the blocks

Before starting all work, it is worth looking at the intended installation site concealed wiring or heating pipes. Getting into them at work is very sad. Next comes the actual installation of the air conditioner with your own hands. You need to start with the installation of the indoor unit. On the selected place we place a plate for its fastening. The block must hang strictly horizontally without the slightest deviation. Therefore, we carefully approach the marking and fastening.

We apply the plate, set it according to the level, mark the places for fasteners. We drill holes, insert plastic plugs under the dowels, hang the plate and fix it with dowels. Attach with particular care lower part plates - here are the latches that hold the block, so they must be firmly fixed. No loopholes. Then check the horizontal position again.

Having estimated where the track will be located (it should go at an inclination of at least 1 cm per meter - for normal drainage installation), we begin to drill a hole in outer wall. We also drill the hole with a slope - again, so that the condensate normally leaves (the angle can be greater than that of the route).

The minimum hole diameter is 5 cm. If there is no drill of this size, you can make several holes of a smaller diameter, bring out not a common bundle of communications, but each tube / cable separately. In any case, it is better to drill two holes - one for the copper and electrical cable, the second for the drain tube. It must be laid below the rest - so that it does not numb on communications in an emergency.

If two units are mounted back to back, the hole must be strictly aligned (measure on your own unit where the connection ports are)

Then install the brackets for the outdoor unit. If we are talking about a high-rise building, you will need climbing equipment and skills to work at height. This block must also hang strictly horizontally, so we also use the level when marking the holes. When mounting the brackets, we install fasteners in each hole, no matter how many there are - this is a prerequisite. Standard fasteners - anchors 10 * 100 mm. More is possible, less is highly undesirable.

After the brackets are fixed, expose the outdoor unit. We also fix the block in all the fasteners that are. This is the only way to ensure that it stays in place under any conditions.

Laying communications

Two blocks are connected by an electric wire, two copper tubes. Also, a drainage tube is brought out through the wall. All these communications must be properly selected, connected, laid and fixed.

Copper tubes

Starting with copper pipes. One larger diameter, the other smaller. Dimensions are indicated in the instructions for the air conditioner. We cut off a piece of the desired length with a pipe cutter, process the edges from burrs special tool straightening and straightening the cut. It is undesirable to use a conventional saw, as well as a file to remove a burr - there will definitely be sawdust inside the pipe, which will enter the system and quickly destroy the compressor.

Heat-insulating tubes are put on the prepared pipes. Moreover, the thermal insulation must be continuous and pass inside the wall as well. The joints of the pieces of thermal insulation must be glued with metallized tape, achieving a very tight fit of the edges. The quality of thermal insulation is important, since condensation will form on the non-insulated sections of the pipes, and it can drain inside the wall, causing frozen drips, destroying the wall.

Copper pipes wrapped in thermal insulation must be passed through a hole in the wall. Before this, it is imperative that the edge that will be inserted into the wall be carefully sealed so that dust does not get inside the pipe (or it is better to plug both ends securely immediately after cutting and leave the plugs before starting the connection). This is very important point as the dust will quickly damage the compressor.

Cable and drainage

The situation is simpler with an electric cable. Each wire is terminated with special lugs, installed on conductors that have been stripped of insulation and crimped with tongs. The prepared cable is connected according to the diagram, which is in the instructions.

On the indoor and outdoor units, above the ports for connecting copper pipes, there is a removable plate, under which there are connectors for connecting the cable. Before we start self-assembly split systems, remove the plates, consider what and where you need to connect - it will be easier to work later. Especially with an outdoor unit.

Connecting the drain pipe is generally simple: it is connected to the appropriate outlet on the indoor unit and led out through the wall. The length of this tube should be such that it ends at a distance of 60-80 cm from the wall. Laying the drainage pipe should be done with a slope towards the exit to the street. Slope not less than 1 cm per meter long. More is possible, less is not.

The tube must be fixed every meter so that sagging does not occur in it. Condensation then accumulates in them, which may end up on your floor or on furniture. When you pass the tube through a hole in the wall, it is also better to muffle it with something.

Indoors, pipes and cables are usually wrapped with metallized tape into a single bundle. Then they are fixed to the wall in several places, a plastic box is attached on top. Usually it is taken in white or a color suitable for finishing.

If you wish, you can hide all the tubes in the wall - gouge the track in the wall, lay it there and, after checking the performance, wall it up. But this is a rather risky option, since in order to repair something you will need to disassemble the wall.

Connecting blocks

Here, in general, there are no special secrets. The communications stretched through the hole in the wall are connected to the appropriate connectors. There are no problems with connecting the cable - connect the wires of the same color to the terminals that are already connected to them. In this case, you can't really go wrong.

If the height difference in the installation of blocks exceeds 5 meters, it is necessary to make a loop to catch the oil (we lay copper pipes in this way) dissolved in freon. If the drop is lower, we do not make any loops.

Drainage

There are two ways to divert drainage from the split system - into the sewer or just outside, out the window. The second method is more common with us, although it is not very correct.

Connecting the drain tube is also easy. To the exit drainage system indoor unit (a tube with a plastic tip at the bottom of the unit), the corrugated hose is easily stretched. To keep it secure, you can tighten the connection with a clamp.

The same is the case with the drainage from the outdoor unit. Exit it at the bottom. Often they leave everything as it is, and the water just drips down, but it's probably better to put on a drainage hose too and take moisture away from the walls.

Outdoor Unit Drainage

If not a hose is used, but polymer pipe, it will be necessary to select an adapter that will allow you to connect the outlet of the air conditioner and the tube. You will have to watch on the spot, because situations are different.

When laying a drainage pipe, it is better to avoid sharp turns and certainly not to allow sagging - condensate will accumulate in these places, which is not good at all. As has been said more than once, the tube is laid out with a slope. Optimal - 3 mm per 1 meter, minimum - 1 mm per meter. Throughout it is fixed to the wall, at least every meter.

Freon circulation system

It is somewhat more difficult with connecting copper pipes. They are carefully laid out along the walls, avoiding kinks and creases. For bending, it is better to use a pipe bender, but you can get by with a spring one. In this case, sharp turns should also be avoided, but in order not to bend the tubes.

The ports on the outdoor unit look like this. Same on the inside.

From the beginning, we connect the tubes in the indoor unit. On it, we twist the nuts from the ports. As the nuts loosen, a hiss is heard. It's nitrogen coming out. This is normal - nitrogen is pumped in at the factory so that the insides do not oxidize. When the hissing stops, take out the plugs, remove the nut, put it on the tube, and then start rolling.

rolling

First, remove the plugs from the pipes and check the edge. It should be smooth, round, without burrs. If the section is not round during cutting, use a calibrator. This small device, which can be found in the forehead shop. It is inserted into the pipe, scrolled, aligning the section.

The edges of the tubes are carefully aligned for 5 cm, after which the edges are flared so that they can be connected to the inlet / outlet of the blocks, creating a closed system. The correct execution of this part of the installation is very important, since the freon circulation system must be airtight. Then refueling the air conditioner will not be needed soon.

When flaring, hold the pipe with the hole down. Again, so that copper particles do not get inside, but spill out onto the floor. In the holder, it is clamped so that it sticks out 2 mm outward. That's right, no more, no less. We clamp the tube, put the flaring cone, twist it, applying solid efforts (the tube is thick-walled). The flaring is finished when the cone goes no further. We repeat the operation on the other side, then with the other tube.

If you have not rolled pipes before, it is better to practice on unnecessary pieces. The edge should be smooth, with a clear continuous border.

Port connection

We connect the flared edge of the pipe to the corresponding outlet, tighten the nut. No additional gaskets, sealants and the like should be used (forbidden). For this, they take special tubes made of high-quality copper so that they provide sealing without additional funds.

You need to make a serious effort - about 60-70 kg. Only in this case, the copper will flatten out, squeeze the fitting, the connection will become almost monolithic and precisely sealed.

The same operation is repeated with all four outputs.

Vacuuming - why and how to do it

The last stage, which ends with the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands, is the removal of air and moisture, argon residues from the system. During installation wet air fills copper pipes from indoors or outdoors. If it is not removed, it will enter the system. As a result, the compressor will work with a greater load, it will heat up more.

The presence of moisture also adversely affects the performance of the system. The fact is that freon, which is filled with air conditioners, contains a certain amount of oil to lubricate the elements from the inside. This oil is hygroscopic, but saturated with water, it lubricates the insides less effectively, and this leads to their premature wear.

From all this it follows that the system will work without air removal, but not for very long and with possible shutdown due to overheating (if there is such an automation).

There are two ways to remove air from the system: using a vacuum pump or some amount of freon released from the outdoor unit (it is charged at the factory and has some excess freon - just in case).

The "puff" method

On ports outdoor unit unscrew the valve plugs (in the photo they are indicated by arrows).

We will carry out operations with the lower port (larger diameter), which sticks out perpendicular to the body. Under the cover there is a socket for a hexagon, we select a key that is suitable in size.

Under the cover is a valve with a hexagon socket

Next, with this key, turn the valve 90 ° for one second, return it to its previous position. We let some freon into the system, it created excess pressure. We press a finger on the spool, which is located on the same port. By this we release a mixture of freon and gases located there. Press for literally seconds. Part of the mixture should remain so as not to start a new portion of air inside.

You can repeat 2-3 times, no more, the second time you can turn the valve located above. With a track of 2-3 meters - you can 3 times, with a length of 4 meters - only two. Freon is not enough for more.

When the air is practically removed, we screw the plug onto the outlet with the spool (filling), open the control valves (under the hexagon) completely, launching the freon into the system. We coat all joints with soapy foam to make sure that they are airtight. You can run.

Vacuum pump

This operation requires a vacuum pump, a high pressure tube, a group of two pressure gauges - high and low pressure.

Without opening the valves on the control valves, we connect the hose from the vacuum pump to the inlet with the spool, turn on the equipment. It should work 15-30 minutes. During this time, all air, vapors, nitrogen residues are drawn out.

Then the pump is turned off, the pump valve is closed but not disconnected and left for another 15-20 minutes. All this time it is necessary to observe the readings of manometers. If the system is tight, there is no change in pressure, the pressure gauge needles froze in place. If the arrows change their position, there is a leak somewhere and it needs to be fixed. You can find it with soap suds and tighten the connection (usually the problem is at the point where the copper pipes are connected to the outlets of the blocks).

If everything is fine, without disconnecting the pump hose, fully open the valve, which is located below. Some sounds are heard inside the system - freon fills the system. Now, with gloves, quickly twist the hose of the vacuum pump - a certain amount of ice freon can escape from the valve, and you don’t need frostbite. Now we completely unscrew the valve at the top (where a thinner tube is connected).

Why in that order? Because when filling with freon, the system is under pressure, which quickly closes the filling port when the pump is disconnected. That's all, the installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is completed, you can turn it on.

In fairness, it must be said that such an operation - vacuuming - is carried out only in Russia and neighboring countries. In the same Israel where air conditioners work all year round, do nothing of the sort. Why is a matter for thought.

The word split actually means "gap", but in technical English it has several meanings. In this case, we are talking about an air conditioning system using an air conditioner with spaced blocks. We will tell you how to install a split system with your own hands in a city apartment and a private house.

How air conditioner works

Installing an air conditioner is a tricky business. In order not to screw up, you need to know exactly what is being done for what. Therefore, we briefly recall the principle of operation of the air conditioner:

A refrigerant enters the evaporator through a narrow opening - a die or nozzle - under pressure: a low-boiling liquid with a high heat of evaporation. In the evaporator chamber, the refrigerant expands, boils, evaporates and absorbs a lot of heat.
At the same time, water condensate forms on the evaporator radiator (dew falls). The condensate flows into the tank, and from it through the drain tube - out.
The compressor, arranged on the principle of a vacuum pump, continuously pumps out refrigerant vapor from the evaporator chamber. From the increase in pressure behind the pump, the refrigerant heats up and goes into a supercritical state: neither gas nor liquid, something like a very dense fog.
Next, the refrigerant enters the condensation chamber, also equipped with a radiator, which is blown by a fan. Its temperature drops below the critical one and the refrigerant condenses into a liquid.
The liquid refrigerant is blown through the die into the evaporator; the work cycle is repeated.

Do's and Don'ts of Air Conditioning

From the principle of operation of the air conditioner, it is clear that for its successful operation and economical consumption of electricity during installation, the following must be taken into account:

Any thermal contact between the cold and hot zones dramatically increases the power consumption: the compressor, in addition to pumping the agent, now has to drive heat inside the system - at the expense of the owner.
Dust and debris in the system are unacceptable: the vacuum pump is a high-precision device; one piece of metal can destroy it.
The system must be completely sealed: low-boiling liquids strive to evaporate even through a micron gap.
The outdoor unit must be located lower than the indoor unit: in this case, the thermosyphon effect (the heated liquid tends to rise) facilitates the operation of the compressor. Otherwise, the compressor, in addition to the additional consumption of electricity to lift the agent, will also have to overcome the thermosiphon effect.
The outdoor unit should be located as far as possible cool place. Any additional heating is paid by the owner.
The drain tube must not have an upward bend anywhere. Any "U" quickly becomes a source of infection: condensate - pure water, in which microbes and fungi are free and at ease, and their spores are always in the air.

What is an air split

Air conditioners for split systems are made with separate units: evaporative (internal) and compressor-condensing (outdoor). The names, however, are conditional, because. most modern air conditioners can both cool and heat the room; During heating, the refrigerant condenses in the indoor unit and evaporates in the outdoor unit. Therefore, they often say simply: outdoor and indoor unit.

In some (rather expensive) models of air conditioners, several indoor units are connected to one outdoor unit, which can work separately for cooling and heating. Such a split system, with the initial high cost of operation, turns out to be more economical: in this case, interroom heat exchange does not interfere, but helps the air conditioner. How a split system is installed in an apartment is shown in the figure:

When is the best time to split

It is better to time the installation of a split system in an apartment for repairs. The work ahead is serious: for the installation of electricians, you will have to walk along more than one wall. If the walls are already tiled - lay the new cladding in advance in expenses.

Tool

In order for the split to work and not break in a day or a week, you need to purchase or rent the following tool:

Perforator with a set of chisels - you will have to make a hole under 100 mm in diameter in the main wall.
Reinforcement detector, if the wall is concrete - hitting the rebar during grooving, you will have to punch a new hole.
Pipe cutter. Never cut the refrigerant pipes with a hacksaw! Copper chips will definitely remain in the gap, which will quickly kill the compressor.
Tube flaring kit. When expanding with improvised means, tightness cannot be achieved. About flaring tubes will be discussed separately. Included good sets for flaring, a pipe cutter with a scraper is also included.
Scraper (reamer) - a tool for stripping the ends of pipes. A needle file or file is not suitable because of the same sawdust.
Bicycle hand pump– to check the tightness of the system.
Vacuum pump - to evacuate the system before filling. Flushing with refrigerant, which is often recommended, does not remove moisture, which ruins the compressor no worse than metal filings.
Phase indicator and tester for electrical installation work.
Pressure gauge.

About pipelines

Buying pipes

It is better to buy a copper tube in a whole bay: it is better to spend money on some stock, which will then go somewhere else, than to risk the compressor: sawdust may remain in the tube from which it was cut off. Also make sure that the ends of the tube in the bay are factory-rolled, and the tube itself does not have dents or cracks. Long piping will allow the outdoor unit to be lowered, so that some overspending when buying is then offset by a good thermosyphon.

Cutting, scraping and expanding tubes

Before embarking on the installation, you need to practice flaring the tubes: for an air conditioner, this is a vital issue. Flaring is done with a special tool; how it works, looks, what defects are possible, and what the final result should be - you can see in the figure:

For training, you need to immediately buy some kind of scrap of the same with a tube bay; do not touch the bay before installation. At the same time, we will practice cutting and scraping: the tube is cut in a circular motion, and when scraping, the tube must be held with the end down so that the scraped burrs do not fall into its lumen.

Outdoor unit installation

It is strongly not recommended to install the outdoor unit on the wall by yourself, starting from the second floor. Why? See the statistics of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and the Ministry of Health in the sections: "Resuscitation" and "Urgent surgery". Fortunately, the upper floors have balconies or loggias.

On a balcony, the outdoor unit mounts very well on self-made shallow (i.e. shallow) brackets, see fig. On any balcony, no matter how you turn it, there is always a north or east side, just right for the air conditioner. But even when installed in the loggia "facing" to the south, the visor will protect the outdoor unit from the direct rays of the sun during the hottest time of the day, when the air conditioner is just running.

With this installation method, the installation and maintenance of the air conditioner is easy and does not pose a risk. The only inconvenient operation is fixing the block to the brackets; it will have to be done by leaning over the railing.

To install the brackets, the glazing will have to be temporarily removed, and the root parts of the brackets should be cut into the lower frame frame. If the “roots” of the brackets are bent down in the form of horizontally arranged “U”, then you can do without struts and not touch the balcony skin.

Split system installation

Installation of a split system in an apartment is carried out in the following order:

And now we will describe some features of each stage of work. Allowable distances from walls and ceiling for indoor and outdoor units are shown in the figure on the right.

Places for indoor units

Indoor units cannot be installed:

Above radiators and other heat sources.
Behind curtains, curtains, screens and other airflow obstructions.
In rooms with sources of electrical interference: workshops with power tools, induction and microwave ovens, electric ovens - pickups can damage the unit's processor.

The question immediately arises: what about the kitchen? In it, it turns out, the air conditioner cannot be installed at all. Right. The supply of conditioned air to the kitchen is provided.

Wiring

The smallest air conditioner consumes 1.5 kW of electricity. Therefore, for it it is necessary to lay a separate wiring with a cross section of at least 1.5 square meters. mm and put the automatic shutdown - as for a boiler or washing machine.

When connecting the wires to the input shield, we connect the yellow wire with a longitudinal green stripe to the neutral (neutral wire). Phase and zero are determined by the phase indicator. If the wiring is made from wires in non-standard colors, zero and phase must be marked at both ends.

outdoor unit

Installation of the outdoor unit has already been described above.

Hole in the wall

Firstly, if the house is block, you need to determine in advance the locations of the reinforcement. It is impossible to cut off the reinforcement that is in the hole: the outer wall is always load-bearing, and violation of the reinforcement is unacceptable.

Secondly, a second person is needed: he must stand below and warn passers-by. An accidentally dropped piece of concrete or brick can cost the owner a long prison sentence.

The diameter of the hole must be at least 80 mm. Recommendations about 60 and even 50 mm clearly do not take into account thermal insulation.

Pipelines

We cut the tubes to size with a margin of 1 m, for bends. Bending the tubes must be done carefully to prevent kinks or wrinkles. Wrinkles create resistance to the flow of the agent, and this entails an increased consumption of electricity. Permissible bending radius of tubes is not less than 100 mm.

Then we put threaded flanges (“nuts”) on the tubes and flare the ends of the tubes. Make sure that the flanges are put on correctly - threaded towards the end of the tube.

Finally, we connect the pipelines to the fittings. This must be done alternately so that the cold fitting of the indoor unit is not connected to the hot outdoor unit. The matter is facilitated by the fact that in most air conditioners hot and cold fittings of different diameters.

We tighten the flanges on the fittings tightly, but not tightly: copper can be easily pinched. hold out threaded connections will be later, when sealing.

For drainage, you need a piece of reinforced plastic tubing. We connect it to the drain pipe either with a threaded flange, if provided, or with a piece of heat-shrinkable tube. You can heat the heat shrink with a soldering iron with light circular movements, slightly touching the tube with a sting.

Electrical connections

Stranded wires in insulation with a cross section of at least 1.5 sq. mm we connect the terminals of the same name of the indoor and outdoor units. If the names of some terminals do not match, we understand the instructions, consult with a specialist. Of course, both pipelines and wires are passed through a hole in the wall.

Sealing

When sealing, we use a method proven by generations of gas workers: a soap solution. We buy 0.5 liters of distilled water at the pharmacy, heat it “to steam” and, stirring gently, dissolve a spoonful of laundry soap shavings in it.

A split system for air conditioning in a room is a more complex system than conventional air conditioner. But it is worth noting that installing a split system with your own hands is a completely feasible process for each owner of this device.

Installation instructions

Installation instructions for split systems include the following items:

Choosing a location for the system.
Installation of air conditioner.
Installation of the internal system compartment.
First, test run.

Of course, today there are many specialized companies involved in the installation and maintenance of indoor air conditioning systems. But most owners, in order to save money, prefer to mount the device on their own on site, and subsequently engage in its maintenance, all this is possible, even if before that you had no skills and did not encounter this equipment. It's just worth considering one factor when you install and configure new system on your own, keep in mind that the store's warranty for such equipment will no longer apply.

Selecting a location for the system

The air conditioning system must be located in a place that will not be cluttered up later. Air intakes and air distribution openings must be fully accessible.

The outdoor and indoor units should preferably be on the same level. If this is not feasible, then the maximum allowable height difference should be no more than 5 meters.

As for the wall on which you will hang the blocks, it must be sufficiently even and strong in order to withstand the considerable weight of the structure. That is why you should avoid installing an air conditioner on interior partitions.

The rules for installing split systems completely exclude direct sunlight from entering the indoor unit of the device. The condenser grid itself must be completely protected from direct rays. If the installed outdoor unit will be located on the roof, then its front side must be turned to the shady side.

It is also necessary to provide for the conditions for the installation of a drainage system, through which the condensate formed during the operation of the installation will be discharged to the outdoor unit.

The plastic used most often for the indoor unit is very sensitive to known fluorescent lamps, so it is desirable to install the device in a location that is far away from them.

One more thing important condition. The internal compartment must be at least 1 meter from the microwave oven, as the radiation emitted by the microwave oven during operation adversely affects the operation of the installation and causes interference.

Selecting a location for the outdoor unit

When installing the outer compartment, the most important thing is a strong mount. The wall must be flat, the fasteners in the form of special brackets must be installed in such a way as to dampen the vibration that occurs during the operation of the device as much as possible.

It is necessary to carry out the installation of the split system yourself so that the outer part of the system is located in a place accessible for subsequent installation and maintenance work. Of course, all air intakes should not be forced by anything.

Installation of air conditioner

Before proceeding with the installation of the air conditioner, you need to take care of the availability necessary funds. You will need the following tool for installing split systems:

drilling hammer;
pipe cutter;
flaring tool;
pump;
a device that measures the pressure in a liquid.

Installation of the device includes the following operations:

Initially, you should open the front panel and unscrew the screws from the cover that closes the electrical box, it must be pulled out.
Connected to the installation electrical cable and the cover is put in place. A couple of useful notes, the unit itself should not be lower than 2m 30 cm from the floor surface, the socket should be close to the element, and have a ground connection.

Installation of the drainage system

The drain hose must run under connecting pipe. It should not twist or bend. In the future, the hose must be wrapped with heat-insulating materials. Where the drainage route runs close to the wall, it is desirable to lay inserts of heat-insulating material. And the track itself is usually wrapped with felt tape.

Be sure to check the reliability of the connection of the joints of the drainage system, as this can subsequently lead to leaks. Next, the pipe is passed through a hole in the wall, and the block, which will be located indoors, is hung on the wall.

Experts are advised to adhere to the following restrictions when connecting a pipe line. WITH inside the number of possible bends in the route should not exceed 10 in total. The radius of the most possible bend should not exceed 10 cm.

The cap on the evaporator tube must only be removed immediately before installation work. First, air is released, then the nut on the connecting tube of the evaporator is unscrewed. Oil must be applied to the joint.

Hole tightness

Independent installation of a split system must be accompanied by careful sealing of all docking holes. It all starts with sealing the hole in the wall. For this, the usual standard putty is suitable.

The drainage pipe is usually tightly fixed with a special clamp. Concerning electrical connection and the cable connecting the blocks for data transmission, then they must be connected in accordance with a special diagram. Usually it is attached to the device passport. Depending on the type of installation and the manufacturer, the connection must also be made.

The cable and data line are connected to the appropriate terminals, which are usually marked with different colors. The cables connecting the two units must also be secured with a special clamp.

During the installation process, be sure to pay attention to the following factors:

The electrical unit must be securely fixed and closed. If this condition is not met, then the risk of injury increases. electric shock or elementary fire, since dust, dirt or water can easily get inside.
The electrical connection cable must under no circumstances be connected to the cold pipe. The cable through which the freon passes heats up during the operation of the installation, so their contact should be excluded.

How to bleed air

Do-it-yourself installation of a split system implies that you will also have to bring the system itself into working condition with your own hands. Initially, you need to get rid of the airiness of the system. To do this, you need to bleed air from the system.

The nut of the service pipe, as well as the plugs on the liquid and gas valves, must be unscrewed.
To do this, you need to turn the usual hexagon gas valve at 90 degrees. counterclock-wise. After counting about 10 s. turn back and close it. Then apply a normal soapy solution to check for gaseous leaks.
If you did not find any leaks, repeat the procedure again, but after 10 seconds do not close it back, but press the fitting for service work. Steam should come out, indicating that air has begun to escape from the system.

Extra Freon charge

The maximum length of the connecting hoses through which freon moves must not exceed 7 meters. But in the case when another installation of the system is impossible for one reason or another, it is necessary to increase the length of the route for the refrigerant. In this case, a mandatory refueling of freon into the system will be required.

When all the work has been completed and, if necessary, additional charging of freon into the system has been made, the next step will be the need to make a trial run of the installation.

It is advisable to take care of your own safety before this action. Pressing the forced start button will start the system. Sometimes the system beeps twice when turned on. This indicates that you can control the device using the item remote control. In order to check its operation, you should also alternately press the buttons on the remote control.

A modern office, perhaps, is quite difficult to imagine without air conditioning. And private consumers are increasingly installing split systems in their homes and apartments. If you also decide to follow their example, then you can probably do the installation process yourself. However, first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology and some installation principles, which will be discussed below.

Installation Features

Before you start installing a split system, you should familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of such work. By purchasing the appropriate equipment, you will spend a lot of money, so you should be interested in the question of how to save money during the operation of the system. For example, if thermal contact is maintained between the hot and cold zones, this will increase energy consumption, because the compressor will need to drive heat inside the system, as well as pump the refrigerant.

Garbage and dust inside are unacceptable. The vacuum pump is a high-tech device. If a piece of metal gets there, it will disable the equipment. Installation of a split system must be accompanied by ensuring complete tightness. Even if the smallest gaps remain, low-boiling liquids will be ready to evaporate.

The outdoor unit is located below the indoor unit. This will facilitate the work of the compressor, because the thermosyphon effect will work. It is explained by the fact that the heated liquid will rush upward. If this requirement is not taken into account, the compressor will overcome physical forces, and the consumption of electricity will increase again. Dismantling and installation of a split system can be done independently. But for this, the outdoor unit must be placed in convenient location. In addition, it must be in the shade. If it is subjected to additional heating, then the costs will again fall on the shoulders of the owner.

Installation of a drainage tube is also accompanied by compliance with certain rules. It should not have an upward curve. If the position of this node is similar to U, then this will cause a source of infection, because the condensate will be a place for the emergence and development of fungus and microbes, the spores of which are in the air.

Types and mounting options

Installation of a split system in Azov and other cities can be carried out. The prices for such works are presented below. But if you plan to deal with them yourself, you should know that air conditioners are made with separate units, one of them will be outdoor, while the other will be indoor. The latter is an evaporator, but the first is a compressor-condenser. These names are arbitrary modern models can cool and heat the room. In the latter case, the refrigerant condenses inside the unit in the apartment and evaporates outside. Therefore, an indoor unit and an outdoor unit are distinguished.

Considering expensive models, you should pay attention to the fact that there is a possibility of connecting several indoor units to one outdoor unit. Each of them can work separately for heating and cooling. Such a system, at a high cost at the time of purchase, will be more economical in operation, because the heat exchange between the rooms does not interfere, but helps the air conditioner.

Feedback on when is the best time to start installation. Opinions of home masters on the features of preparation for work

According to home masters, the installation of a split system is best timed to coincide with the repair. This is due to the fact that the installation of such equipment is a rather serious task. In order to conduct an electrician, you will have to walk along many walls. If they already have a cladding, then it is necessary to lay down the costs of a new finish in advance.

When home masters are asked about what preparation needs to be done before installing a split system, they answer that at the first stage it is necessary to take care of the availability of the appropriate tools. Using improvised devices is not only not always convenient, but also unsafe, because with this outcome, the air conditioner can break down in a week.

For installation, prepare:

perforator;
armature detector;
pipe cutter;
tube flaring kit;
scraping;
hand pump;
Vacuum pump;
phase indicator;
manometer.

Consumers emphasize that a set of chisels should be attached to the puncher. You will have to make holes in the main wall. Their diameter should be 100 mm. Home craftsmen say that you will also need a valve detector. If the wall is concrete, then you can get into the bars, so you have to look for a new hole.

Cutting the refrigerant pipes with a hacksaw is not worth it. To do this, consumers are advised to purchase or borrow a pipe cutter. If you do not follow this rule, then copper chips will remain in the gap, it will quickly disable the compressor.

Flaring the tubes with improvised means is also not worth it. To do this, prepare a special set. Otherwise, you will not be able to achieve tightness. A good kit includes a pipe cutter and a scraper. To check the tightness of the system, it is better to use a bicycle pump. But for vacuuming, the pump of the same name is suitable.

Schemes and types of installation

Installation of air conditioners / split systems is usually carried out according to typical schemes which are suitable for apartments, offices and residential areas. Preliminary arrangement of blocks and calculation of installation are carried out after the departure of a specialist. However, with self-installation, you can choose the scheme of your choice. The first of them involves mounting the indoor unit on a wall perpendicular to the window. But in the lower part of the latter, the corresponding block is installed outside.

The second scheme provides for the location of the external unit on the left side of the window, if you look at it from the outside. The indoor unit remains in the same place. Such installation of a multi-split system is suitable for the first and second floors. The distance between the windows must be sufficient for the location of the outdoor unit. Otherwise, it will need to be positioned, as in the first diagram.

If the window has an opening sash on the balcony, then the block can be placed on the left of the latter. Air conditioning from the inside remains in the same place. After that, you can do the installation of double-glazed windows and balcony glazing. But if glazing is already available, then installation work can be complicated.

The outdoor unit in the presence of a balcony can be located on its side. This is true if the width of the surface allows the connection of the freon line. The sash at the place of installation of the outdoor unit should open if the balcony is glazed. Such a scheme is possible if the balcony parapet is made of capital materials, among them:

concrete;
brick;
foam block.

The outside surface must be smooth and clean.

Outdoor unit installation instructions

You can install a split system yourself. Installation must be carried out according to a certain algorithm. Work should begin with the installation of the outdoor unit. You can use homemade brackets for this. It is only important to make sure that the design will be protected from the direct rays of the sun in hot weather. In this case, installation and maintenance will not cause difficulties.

To install the brackets, the glazing (if any) will have to be temporarily removed. The root parts of the brackets cut into the frame frame. If they are bent down, then it will be possible to do without struts, while the balcony cladding will not have to be touched.

Installing the indoor unit

Installation of the system in the apartment is carried out in the following order. First you need to determine the location of the structure. Next, electrical wiring is laid, a hole is punched in the wall for laying communications. Do-it-yourself installation of a split system, the instructions for which are presented in the article, can be completely carried out by you.

Work methodology

At the next stage, the technology provides for the preparation and laying of the pipeline. Blocks must be connected to each other. The system should be checked for leaks. It is evacuated, filled, and then connected to the power supply. The split system must be tested. Interblock harness is insulated. The hole in the main wall is sealed.

For reference

If you do not feel the strength to do the installation yourself, you can use the services of professionals. If you want to save money, you can purchase an air conditioner from the company that installs it. Quite often, such companies provide a discount on installation work.

The cost of the work

The cost of installing a split system will cost 4,000 rubles if you purchase an air conditioner with a power of up to 3.5 kW. When the power increases to 7 kW, the cost rises to 4500 rubles. You can install a split system from 7 kW in power and above for 8000 rubles. The price of installation of a split system usually includes the installation of external and internal units, the connection of structures to each other, as well as the control connection. By paying the price mentioned above, you will also receive the punching of one of the holes in concrete or brick.

Conclusion

Of course, you can do the installation yourself. But in this case, many suppliers remove the warranty. Therefore, it is better to entrust the matter to professionals.

installing an air conditioner with your own handsClimatic equipment is installed in advance, before the onset of heat. In some cases, to save money, an air conditioner is installed by hand. The main condition is to strictly adhere to the instructions, to carry out work in the recommended place. Incorrectly selected parts can cause damage to the climate control device.

The principle of operation of the air conditioner, split system

For the formation general idea about the organization internal device, and before installing the air conditioner, we recommend that you consider the principle of operation of the system. Climatic consists of 2 equivalent blocks - compressor and evaporator. They are connected to each other by special adapters, branch pipes and tubes.

The evaporation unit is installed inside the dwelling, and the compressor unit is installed outside. High-performance and expensive models are equipped with one compressor and several indoor units.

Refrigerant under high pressure is sent to the evaporator. Then there is an expansion of freon, its gradual boiling and vaporization. It is this cold vapor that absorbs the heat of the air. The air conditioning system works with the active formation of water condensate, which settles on a special radiator. At the final stage, water is discharged from the building through a special tube.

In the process of operation, the compressor pumps out the evaporation of freon. The pressure inside the unit is increased by a built-in pump. Gradually, under the influence of temperature, the refrigerant changes from a liquid state to a vapor state. A dense "fog" is sent to the condensate chamber for gradual cooling (a small fan is used for this purpose) and transition to liquid state. Then the circle closes and the process loops.

The efficiency and duration of the functioning of the house, as well as the amount of electricity consumed by the appliance, are determined by the intensity of operation of the unit, the climatic features of the region. If there is a heater in the room near the climate control device, the level of electricity consumed increases, which is fraught with the failure of the device. Even ordinary dust can provoke a breakdown. The room is scheduled for regular wet cleaning.

Couplings and joints require sealing without fail in order to level the likelihood of freon or other refrigerant evaporation. Install the outdoor unit of the air conditioner so that it is level below the inside of the unit. The outdoor unit is located in a dark place, away from sunlight.

Do-it-yourself air conditioning installation: tools - a complete list

Installation of air conditioning systems is a technically complex, responsible, and therefore expensive event. All aspects are important in this matter - experience, practical skills, theoretical base and availability necessary tool. These factors determine the speed and quality of installation. Let's analyze the feasibility of using the tools that come with the standard installation kit.

Taking into account the scope of their application, they are divided into several functional groups.

power tool

Without a power tool, installing an air conditioner with your own hands is simply impossible. We are not talking about any specialized solutions:

perforator;
"Bulgarian";
drill.

A powerful puncher is chosen so that it can easily make a through hole in the wall through which a line is laid between the indoor and outdoor units. Low-power combined electric drills, where only the function of a hammer drill is provided, are indispensable in this case. They are not able to drill through brickwork.

Before you install the air conditioner yourself, you should make sure that you have all the necessary tools.

For a concrete wall, you will additionally need a grinder to remove metal reinforcement, as well as other consumables - discs, drills, concrete bits.

Measuring tool

Installation of a window air conditioner is carried out with the obligatory control of the horizontal level. You can use markers, marking pencils, construction or laser level. You will need a row additional equipment. Air conditioners with installation cannot be reliably and efficiently fixed without additional technical means.

Specialized Equipment

Specialized tools are necessary for the high-quality and efficient functioning of climate equipment. Copper pipe soldering tools, industrial type vacuum cleaner and vacuum pump.

Devices for connecting copper pipes. We are talking about low temperature welding. It is carried out using a special solder and gas burner. A pipe cutter is used to cut them. It is better to refuse an ordinary hacksaw for cutting metal, since small chips will certainly remain in the line, which is fraught with damage to the climate device. To remove the chamfer, use a rimmer, rolling. The main turns are formed by a pipe bender.
An industrial vacuum cleaner is used to suck up dust and small debris. Under no circumstances should they fall into the appliance.
Vacuum pump. The unit dries up the line. If you follow the installation rules, then this procedure is mandatory, without it the efficiency of the air conditioner will be nominal.

The listed equipment for installation is basic. Can't do without additional Supplies- pliers, drywall, stepladders, metal shears, screwdrivers. The exact list is determined by the owner, taking into account specific conditions.

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation: step by step instructions

Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner begins only after purchase and preparation necessary equipment, tools and climatic equipment. First of all, the outdoor unit is fixed on the outer wall, after which internal work is carried out.

At all stages, it is extremely important to observe safety precautions, especially when it comes to skyscrapers. Installation of the outdoor unit is one of the most important and crucial stages.

Outdoor unit fixing

Installation of a window in general, and its outer part, in particular, on the walls country houses is not accompanied by any difficulties. But in the case of multi-apartment buildings, not everything is so simple, the place is selected with great care. When deciding where to install the air conditioner, pay attention to areas with minimal natural light.

There are several basic rules:

The outdoor unit should not spoil the view from the window to the neighbors in the apartment.
A small tube is used to drain condensate.
The climatic device is placed in such a way that it is within reach, because. equipment requires periodic maintenance.

In 90% of cases, the block is fixed at the north or east side, under the window or at the bottom of the balcony. These are the unwritten rules for installing an air conditioner, which are mandatory among professionals. If they are observed, it will not be difficult to reach the outside of the climate control device.

The mounting points of the brackets are checked building level and then holes are prepared in the wall. Anchor bolts are used for secure fixation.
To connect the functional blocks, an 80 mm through hole is made. If possible, it is better to drill a hole between the bricks, along the seam.

According to the previously prepared markings, metal brackets are installed, screwing the bolts as securely as possible. The standard installation of the air conditioner is carried out in such a way that a distance of 10 cm is maintained between the climatic unit and the outer wall. The gaps are closed at the final stage, after connecting the device.

Installing the indoor unit

Do-it-yourself air conditioning installation indoors, where to start? First of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that it is strictly forbidden to mount the indoor unit behind curtains, near electrical appliances, above heaters or batteries - all these devices often cause failure of the block processor.

Before installing the air conditioner, you should carefully check the wall for laying heating, water pipes, electrical wiring.

The fastening of a metal plate from standard components for the installation of air conditioners begins only if the work area is completely free: the distance from the ceiling is from 10 cm, from the corner of the walls - at least 5 cm. Two points are connected with a meter and mark a horizontal line. The indoor unit is mounted on a fixed metal plate.

The next stage in the installation of the air conditioner, or to be more precise, its indoor unit, is the preparation of holes in the wall for connecting communication hoses, electrical wiring, and pipes for draining liquid condensate. The interior space should be sufficient for free placement of all elements in the wall.

Independent installation of the air conditioner is not possible without separate wiring for the indoor unit. For this, wiring with a cross section of at least 1.5 square meters is suitable. mm. It is mandatory to connect a separate machine for the climate control device. Upon completion of the wiring, it is connected to the input of the shield (the indicator can accurately determine the "phase" and "neutral" wire).

The terminals of the outdoor and indoor units are connected to each other with multi-core wiring (it is pushed into the hole prepared in the wall). The installation scheme is clearly described in the instructions that come with each climate control device. When installing air conditioners on your own at home, it is extremely important that the terminals by name match the wires themselves. Otherwise, there is a danger of a short circuit.

Pipe laying instructions

A standard air conditioner installation kit includes several copper pipes. They are carefully cut with a margin of 1 meter for bends. The tubes are prepared with a special tool - a pipe bender, when using it, the metal does not crack, no dents form. Proper preparation includes covering pipes with polyurethane foam hoses that act as thermal insulation.

Special threaded flanges are put on the ends of the tube. The next stage of installation work is high-quality flaring of copper tubes. This process is carried out extremely carefully in order to eliminate the risk of grooves and microcracks. The nut should fit onto the rolling without any problems. As for tightening, it is performed with a special torque wrench.

Do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner continues: pipelines are attached to the fittings. It is impossible to confuse anything, because. copper pipes have different cross-sections and diameters. The flanges are securely screwed onto the fittings, while the connection must be extremely tight, but at the same time, the tube should not be pinched or damaged.

At the final stage, the installation of air conditioning systems comes down to connecting a plastic pipe to a reinforced housing. For reliable fastening apply heat shrink tube from the delivery set. It is better to put a drainage tube at a maximum distance from the base of the wall.

Installation and installation of air conditioners will be incomplete without placing pipes in a special hole made in the wall. There they are carefully and extremely accurately aligned. Outside, the outlet and underwater pipes are fixed with clamps for greater reliability. An electrical wire is placed near them for connection to the outdoor unit.

Holes are blown indoors mounting foam, as an alternative - filled with liquid silicone. Installing an air conditioner on a balcony and in a house involves checking the structure for leaks with a soap solution or a bicycle pump. Soap solution is washed with a sponge or cloth. If defects are found, the thread is tightened tighter.

Vacuuming the air exchange system

The correct installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is described above. The owner should be aware that to remove moisture, dust and the smallest particles from the climate device, the system is evacuated. It is performed upon completion of the final and high-quality sealing of the joints, because it is impossible to get rid of the air completely. The air conditioner with the installation is connected to a vacuum pump, air pumping takes about 1 hour.

Freon or other refrigerant is pumped into the system. The tank on the balcony is filled with a pressure gauge or adapter connected, since it is necessary to strictly control the pressure in the system. After preparing the air conditioner, a special automatic disconnector turns on independently, and the system goes into test mode. With uniform and efficient air circulation, the hole in the wall is sealed with mounting foam, followed by decor.

Installation of industrial air conditioners is carried out exclusively by professionals, because these are expensive climatic complexes for the adjustment of which specialized equipment is required. Spare parts are included in the standard package, you do not have to buy anything in addition.

Now you know how to install the air conditioner yourself and in what sequence to perform the corresponding work.

Installing an air conditioner with your own hands: the secrets of professionals

Installation scheme window air conditioners provides for the possibility of installation in winter period. That's just have to be content with not too much comfortable conditions. Water or snow must not get into the line. It is better to install and pump in the refrigerant at positive temperatures outside the window (at sub-zero temperatures, the stuffing box often fails, since it is rubber).

To install air conditioners, it is not at all necessary to evacuate the system. The nut is not completely screwed to the copper tube, then the control valve located at the thick tube opens slightly. Under pressure, the air will be forced out by freon, and it will be necessary to quickly tighten the nut.

This method incorrect, as the quality and sealing of the system cannot be verified. Installation of industrial air conditioners using this technology is not carried out.

Below is detailed video instructions, which demonstrate the main stages of installing climate systems with your own hands.