Chrysanthemum wilts in a pot what to do. Which type to choose in the store

Chrysanthemum - beautiful plant which is native to Japan. According to legend, one cruel Chinese emperor heard that on one of the islands located next to his state, a beautiful flower grows, giving people immortality. However, in order for this quality to manifest itself, an honest person had to rip it off. Deciding to gain immortality, the emperor sent several chaste boys and girls to the island. However, the envoys did not return. The island was so beautiful that they decided to live here and named the new country Japan. The beautiful flower of immortality, the chrysanthemum, became its symbol.

Today, this wonderful plant, whose homeland is indeed Japan and the Far East, is grown all over the world. Moreover, it is used not only in landscape design, but also planted as a houseplant. We will talk about what care a chrysanthemum in a pot requires in this article.

How to choose the right variety

Of course, you can grow a single plant in a pot, but bush or Chinese chrysanthemums look much more beautiful and spectacular in this case. On the trunk of these varieties, many shoots are formed, on each of which buds bloom. A properly planted bush chrysanthemum in a pot looks like a big bright flower ball.

This plant can reproduce in several ways. Hybrid forms are usually grown from seed. However, in most cases, lovers of home flowers plant ordinary varietal chrysanthemums. Such flowers are most often propagated by cuttings. Let's see how a plant like chrysanthemum is grown in a pot. Home care for this flower must be carried out according to certain rules. Otherwise, it will be impossible to grow a beautiful spectacular bush.

Where to place

Do not install chrysanthemum on the windowsill on the south side. This plant does not tolerate too much heat. Direct sunlight will definitely cause burns. But it is not recommended to install a pot with chrysanthemum in the shade. In this case, her flowering will be very poor. It is best to place the chrysanthemum next to the window, but in such a way that it is in partial shade.

Landing

What to do with a chrysanthemum in a pot - we will talk about this a little later. First, let's figure out how to plant it correctly. Material from the mother plant is cut with a sharp knife. It is impossible to break off the petioles, otherwise they may not be accepted. beautiful and lush bush will grow only if it has a sufficiently developed root system. Therefore, at the very beginning, the petioles are planted in a very large container. Drill a few holes in the bottom of the pot for drainage. Garden soil is poured into it, mixed with some kind of organic fertilizer.

The question of how to plant a chrysanthemum in a pot comes down, among other things, to proper preparation soil. Before backfilling, the soil mixture must be subjected to heat treatment. Chrysanthemum is a rather delicate plant that is easily infected with various kinds of viral and fungal diseases.

Cut stalks are carefully dug into the ground. After 20-25 days, roots form on them. As soon as this happens, they should be carefully, together with a clod of earth, transferred to a small flower pot. In this case mature plant will look beautiful lush bouquet. land in new pot pour the same. That is, they mix nutrient soil with organic fertilizer. You can also use fertilized peat.

How to care for a homemade chrysanthemum in a pot: bush formation

In order for the plant to turn out lush, pinch the tops of all the cuttings. This must be done before the buds appear. Otherwise, the plant simply simply will not bloom. Do not be afraid to remove not too "successful" side shoots. Plants will quickly release new ones.

A very spectacular bush can be obtained after cutting too small buds from it. The more they are removed, the larger the rest of the flowers will grow. It is not difficult to find out the length of future petals. Usually they are about three times the size of the bud itself.

Subsequently, when the bush grows well, the cuttings can be planted in different pots. But you can leave everything as it is.

How to fertilize

So, with how to properly plant this plant, we figured it out. Now let's see how to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot. Of course, this plant, like any other, should be periodically watered and fertilized. Top dressing is applied some time after transplanting into a small pot. In this case, not organic matter is usually used, but special agent- crystal solution. This fertilizer is specially designed for chrysanthemums and contains magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, molybdenum, nitrogen and zinc. Such a rich top dressing provides beneficial effect on the root system plants.

As a fertilizer, you can also use a not too strong solution of mullein. When watering, it is important for them to ensure that splashes do not fall on the leaves.

How to water a chrysanthemum in a pot

You will have to moisten the soil under the chrysanthemum very often. The plant is moisture-loving. Watering it should be done at least twice a week. In any case, it is impossible to allow the soil to dry out in a pot in any case. It is also not necessary to fill the chrysanthemum too much. Otherwise, she may develop some fungal disease. Also experienced growers it is not advised to water the chrysanthemum after sunset. If the droplets on the leaves and stem do not dry quickly, this can also lead to infection with the fungus.

When answering the question of how to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot, experienced flower growers usually advise spraying it periodically. Perform this procedure better in the morning- after sunrise, and in the evening - before sunset.

Diseases and pests

As already mentioned, this plant is not very resistant to various kinds of infections. Very often, a chrysanthemum in a pot becomes infected, for example, with powdery mildew. This disease is usually provoked by a lack of potassium in the soil and an excess nitrogen fertilizers. Infected leaves should be removed as soon as they are noticed. The plant itself must be treated with Bordeaux liquid.

Also, quite often, chrysanthemums are affected by gray rot. In this case, the leaves and stem of the plant turn black. This disease is provoked by an excess of nitrogen in the soil, waterlogging and lack of air circulation between the stems. It is almost impossible to cure gray rot. Affected parts of the plant should be cut and burned.

Of the insects, the chrysanthemum in a pot is most often affected by the nematode. In this case, white spots appear between the veins of the leaves, which subsequently darken. Infection with a nematode can occur through water or soil. This disease cannot be cured either. Sick leaves and shoots are cut and burned.

Many lovers indoor plants after the flowering of chrysanthemums, they simply throw out the bush. It is possible, of course, to do so. However, it is best to save the plant until next spring. To do this, you need to cut off the shoots from it so that only short petioles remain above the surface, and place the pot in a cool place. In the spring, new shoots will sprout from the ground.

Some varieties of chrysanthemums can grow quite tall. In this case, the stalk should be tied to some kind of support. You can use, for example, a very long pencil.

The optimum air temperature in the room where the chrysanthemum is grown is 10-25 degrees. In a room that is too hot, this plant will begin to wither. In the cold, it will not bloom. It is also not recommended to install the pot where the lamps burn for too long in the evening. Chrysanthemum is a short daylight plant. With prolonged bright light, it will feel uncomfortable.

Thus, we have figured out how to grow a plant such as a chrysanthemum in a pot. Home care for this flower is not too complicated. The main thing is not to forget about watering, to form a bush correctly and not to expose the pot to the sun.

Chrysanthemum, grown at home in a pot, is a bright and attractive plant with lush flowers of various shades. When it is acquired, in order to create favorable conditions for its development, it is necessary to observe simple, but very important rules. The plant will surely respond with gratitude, decorating the windowsill of any room. Many gardeners also use it to decorate balconies in summer and autumn.

Chrysanthemums in a pot: the best varieties

Used for cultivation in open ground. It has long and tall stems, decorated with inflorescences. V room conditions prefer more compact and undersized varieties and their species.

Today, thanks to breeding work, you can grow chrysanthemums at home with almost any color of flowers.

The most suitable species and varieties for growing in pots
Chrysanthemum Chinese, or mulberry	The plant is a hybrid appearance which is the result of a long selection, which lasted several centuries, of chrysanthemums from China and Japan. Ideal for pot culture, because it reaches a height of 30–100 cm without pruning. The flowering is lush, on strong stems with leaves 5–7 cm long, both individual large flowers and inflorescences in the form of boxes are located.
Chrysanthemum shrub	This species is native to the Canary Islands in the Atlantic Ocean. The height of plants does not exceed 1 m. Its inflorescences in the form of baskets have a diameter of approximately 5 cm. Due to the ability of the shrub chrysanthemum to adapt well to new conditions, it feels great at home or on the balcony in pots and containers
Chrysanthemum Indian	Often found in flower shops in pots. At home, the height of the bush is 15–70 cm. Flowering is abundant, bright
Chrysanthemum Korean
Chrysanthemum Zembla	It has large (10–12 cm) buds and shoot height. It can be grown both as bushes and single plants. The color of the flowers can be varied, often they have petals with a greenish tint in the middle. It usually blooms in autumn, the cut branches of the plant stand in a vase for a very long time - about 3 weeks, without losing their decorative characteristics.
"Aurora" (a variety of Indian chrysanthemum)	Has bright and flat orange inflorescences
"Snow Elf" (a variety of Indian chrysanthemum)	Strong stems of medium height, topped with double flowers- white pom-poms
	A special type of bush chrysanthemum, suitable for growing indoors. A dwarf branching plant (maximum 20 cm tall) covered with small cute flowers
"Pink Cascade"	Ampel chrysanthemum is the dream of many flower growers. Falling shoots, decorated pink flowers. You can grow this variety in hanging pots and on special racks.
	It is a common item in stores. These plants can have different colors of flowers. Quite unpretentious, adapts well to home temperature and humidity, blooms for a long time and profusely

Indoor chrysanthemum: home care

How to make the chrysanthemum show itself in all its glory? This plant does not require much. It is enough to pay attention to the place where there is a pot with it, try to observe the temperature regime and the necessary humidity. Periodically, you need to remember about timely pruning and transplanting.

Optimal growing conditions

When the plant is in the house, you should decide on the windowsill on which the pot will be placed. for chrysanthemum perfect place will become the east or west side of the house. On the north window, it will lack ultraviolet light and is unlikely to bloom under such conditions. In the south, the sun's rays are too aggressive and help to reduce the flowering period, moisture loss and burns of the green part. It is also important to consider that the flowering of the culture begins when the daylight hours are from 8 to 10 hours. Therefore, if necessary, it must be closed with a cap made of thick cardboard or a box.

How to care for room chrysanthemum (video)

The best temperature for chrysanthemum is:

in the summer months - about 22 ° C;
with the onset of autumn - about 17 ° C;
in winter it is much lower: from 3 to 8°C.

Plant care also consists in maintaining the necessary air humidity, which the chrysanthemum prefers high. Therefore, next to the pot, you can install a container of water or a tray filled with moistened expanded clay. This flower is warm time year should be sprayed from a spray bottle.

Watering and fertilizing

Chrysanthemum loves abundant watering, but you need to ensure that water does not stagnate in the pot. This can lead to rotting of its root system and death of the plant. It is enough just to water when upper layer the soil became dry. In winter, this procedure can be carried out 1 - 2 times a month.

Beautiful flowering bushes respond well to root top dressing using organic fertilizers and balanced mineral complexes. This will ensure the strength of the stems, stimulates the formation and opening of buds. Complex fertilizers produced for flower houseplants are well suited.

Protection against diseases and pests

To reduce the risk of chrysanthemum damage by diseases and pests, it is enough to properly care for it and periodically inspect the plant. After she got into the house, the flower must be kept “in quarantine” for 3 weeks, that is, in isolation from other plants. Also it is important to maintain the necessary humidity of the air and earthen coma; strengthen the plant with top dressing and ventilate the room, avoiding drafts.

Features and terms of pruning

Starting from the moment of acquiring a chrysanthemum, you need to start forming a bush by pinching the shoots. It is enough to leave 4-6 nodes on each branch. This will contribute to branching and creating volume of the plant. You can give the chrysanthemum the desired size and shape.

If the formation of buds does not occur, then the long shoots of the plant are cut with sharp scissors or secateurs, while treating the cuts with activated charcoal. It will also be necessary to shorten the branches after the end of flowering, when the flowers have just begun to wither: this will help save the plant's strength. All flower stalks are cut off, leaving no more than 15 cm of shoots, the pot is transferred to a cool place.

How to transplant a purchased homemade chrysanthemum

Some flower growers prefer to transplant store-bought chrysanthemum immediately into new soil. It is recommended to do this with all plants brought from abroad, because they are on sale in the transport soil. Others prefer to let the plant bloom.

For transplantation after purchase, you will need to take a pot, the volume of which is slightly larger than the size of the root system, and fill it with a substrate, not forgetting about drainage. It should be remembered that chrysanthemum does not like acidic soils. A mixture of soddy land with peat and humus in equal parts is well suited. For less trauma to the root system, it is recommended to use the transshipment method.

Growing problems

Many who have a chrysanthemum at home are wondering why it does not bloom with the onset of autumn. There may be several reasons:

lack of sunlight;
deficit in nutrients Oh;
no pruning;
long daylight hours.

To make a chrysanthemum bloom, you need to find mistakes in care and correct them.

Another common problem when the plant is pulled up can also be poor lighting and malnutrition. We must not forget that chrysanthemum bushes need to be cut regularly for branching.

The most common diseases of this flower include:

aspermia caused by the virus (there is a change in the shape of the flowers, the leaves become speckled);
seedlessness, also of a viral nature (appears yellow tint);
verticillium - the slow death of the plant due to infection;
dwarfism caused by a virus;
mosaic (virus) - the appearance of a characteristic pattern on leaf plates;
powdery mildew (virus) - the formation of a white coating;
ring spotting (virus) - the appearance of yellow rings;
rust (fungus);
septoria (fungus) - the appearance of brown spots;
gray rot (fungus) - gray bloom.

Also, chrysanthemum is often affected by pests: spider mites, aphids and thrips. Plants that become sick with the virus should be destroyed immediately, as they will die and infect other indoor flowers. Can be used to treat infections chemicals. Specialists cope well with pests insecticides sold in shops.

Care for potted chrysanthemum after flowering

When the plant fades, it begins a dormant period. Therefore, all flower stalks need to be cut at the very beginning of wilting. This will allow the chrysanthemum to save strength. Then the pot is transferred to a cool room (you can use an unheated loggia or basement), where the temperature is 3 - 8 ° C, watering is reduced. With the advent of the spring rays of the sun, the flower is again placed in a warm room, they begin to regularly feed and water it.

Why does a chrysanthemum dry in a pot (video)

Chrysanthemum - flowering plant which you can grow on your windowsill. You just need to create suitable conditions for it, depending on the time of year. This is a flower that has reduced immunity to diseases, so you need to regularly examine it and treat it if necessary. If desired, it is possible to choose an original variety with bright, memorable flowers of various shades.

Growing chrysanthemums in pots is a popular pastime among many gardeners, but it often brings more than just joy, such as when the leaves of a chrysanthemum dry. Gardeners are perplexed about such consequences, they are convinced that they care for indoor chrysanthemums well and correctly. But often excessive care harms plants. In addition, there are many reasons for the wilting of the leaves of flowers.

Usually diseases of chrysanthemums can be seen with the naked eye.

Causes of dried leaves

The leaves and buds of chrysanthemum dry for a number of reasons: among them are diseases, pest attacks, mistakes made during care. It is important to have an idea about the symptoms of a particular disease in order to take measures already at the initial stage, to prevent the chrysanthemums from drying out completely.

Gray rot

The causative agent of gray rot is a fungus that begins its journey through the plant from the roots in the ground, often its appearance is facilitated by improper watering, an erroneous schedule for fertilizing. First, the leaves and stems, due to the attack of gray rot, acquire a gray-brown color, then a kind of plaque forms, and at the final stage the leaves dry up and fall off. The danger of gray rot is the possibility of death of flowers.

powdery mildew

This common phenomenon also occurs as a result of the negative effects of the fungus. Factors contributing to the emergence powdery mildew, are abundant watering and prolonged rains. Primary symptom - white coating on the leaves, which soon darkens. At further development the disease spreads to the buds, and they dry out.

This harmful insect can be found on a chrysanthemum sold in a store, it is necessary to carefully examine the leaves for the presence of cobwebs on inside leaves. Ticks suck out the juices of the plant, as a result of which the leaves wither and dry out, turning into lifeless tubes.

The spider mite quite easily gnaws through the delicate tissue of the leaves and sucks out the liquid.

brown aphid

A harmful insect attacking the leaves of chrysanthemums from the underside, because of this they turn yellow, dry out and fall off. Aphids do not allow the buds to open, they wither and dry. Brown aphid spreads due to a virus that has entered the plant.

Weevils and saricides

Weevil - an insect with a peculiar long nose, the insect attacks flower buds, causing them to dry out. Saricides also prefer to settle in the buds of chrysanthemums, they are attracted high humidity, rotting leftover food. Weevils and saricides come to life when daylight ends and the room plunges into darkness.

thrips

One of the main signs of the appearance of a thrips pest is the appearance of spots on the leaves that change their color from red to dark brown. Thrips has a negative effect on the shape and development of the leaves: they dry and deform.

slobber penny

You can determine the presence of this insect on chrysanthemums by the presence of foam on parts of the plant. High humidity, high temperature in the room, a long stay of the flower in greenhouse conditions without ventilation contributes to its formation. Slobbering pennitsa has a destructive effect on the leaves - they darken, dry and fall off.

Chrysanthemum nematode

Nematodosis

The disease is provoked by thread-shaped worms that settle in the soil; it is difficult to notice them with the naked eye. The main blow falls on the leaves, which darken, dry out and crumble over time. If the nematodes have affected the kidneys, then the inflorescences also darken and dry out in the future. An immediate transplant of a diseased plant from a healthy one is required.

Septoria

This fungal disease manifests itself in the formation brown spots on leaves that gradually turn black. Also, these spots increase in size extremely quickly, occupying the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe leaf that dries. To save the flower, it is necessary to cut off the infected leaves, if this is not done, then you will have to get rid of the entire plant.

Ascochitosis

In this disease, the fungus spreads from lower leaves, gradually affecting the entire leaf plate, on which mottling is formed. Often such leaves rot, dry. If ascochitosis is detected, the only way out is to burn the diseased parts of the chrysanthemum.

fungal disease ascochitosis

Wrong care

If the leaves of the room chrysanthemum dry, then it is necessary to check whether the care is carried out correctly. Among the popular causes of dried leaves:

sudden changes in temperature negatively affect the condition of the flower standing in a pot on the windowsill;
too high or too low room temperature;
dry air that dries indoor chrysanthemums, standing side by side with batteries;
abundant watering, which negatively affects the condition of the leaves;
increased amount of nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

Ways to solve the problem of drying leaves

There are several effective ways to help prevent dry chrysanthemum leaves, each of which can be applied after the exact cause of the disease is established. In some cases, it remains only to destroy the flower if there is a threat of infection of neighboring plants.

Fight against fungus

Fungus is one of the most common misfortunes that provoke dry leaves. It is necessary to tune in to regular, at least 3 times a year, preventive measures for the treatment of fungicides:

Fundazol;
copper sulfate;
Bordeaux liquid;
Azophos.

The dose of fungicides must be precisely calibrated - any excess is dangerous. The introduction of an increased dose is allowed during the growing season. When spraying, one should not forget about the soil - microorganisms live there that have a destructive effect on flowers. With a progressive disease, diseased parts or the entire plant must be burned.

Bordeaux mixture - good remedy prevention of fungal diseases.

The fight against the virus

The virus often acts as a causative agent of dangerous diseases, it is often carried by insects, the presence of which has a destructive effect on chrysanthemums. You can protect yourself from viruses by preventive spraying:

Aktelik;
Confidor;
Fitoverm.

Folk remedies are also indispensable:

tobacco infusion;
garlic solution;
infusion of hot pepper.

Insect control

Many insects massively settle on chrysanthemums, attacking all parts of the flower. Some spoil the chrysanthemum so much that it is often necessary to get rid of the entire plant completely. In order not to bring to this, it is necessary to regularly inspect all parts of the flower, paying close attention to the lower leaves - from there the pests begin their journey.

High-quality insecticides can cope with most insects (mites, weevils, saricides), treatment should be carried out 3 times with an interval of 5 days. Against spider mite the most effective is Aktelik. Water procedures also help to fight the tick - it is useful to put the pot under the shower. But excess moisture is harmful if worms or flies are found on chrysanthemums.

Actellik is an effective but toxic pest control agent.

Chrysanthemum care and prevention

For a chrysanthemum growing in a pot at room conditions, competent care is extremely important, consisting of a whole range of activities, the execution of which must be precisely thought out.

Temperature regime

For everyone, the obvious fact is that dry air provokes the drying of leaves, but not all gardeners can provide the optimal temperature regime for chrysanthemum in a residential area. The ideal range is from 10 to 15 ° C, at temperatures above the leaves turn yellow and the buds dry. At a comfortable temperature, the chrysanthemum grows faster and produces more buds.. The plant will feel better in the heat if you make partial shade with curtains or blinds, as well as provide constant access fresh air but no draft.

Watering and humidity

Without timely watering, flower buds wither, dry out. The lack of moisture is felt by the dryness of the upper layer of the earth, the optimal watering is once every 5 days. If the soil is dry, then the interval should be reduced; in the heat, you can water twice a day. For irrigation, you should choose rain, filtered or settled water, hard water should not be used. Also, excess moisture should not be allowed, which leads to the drying of the roots and leaves of the plant.

Another important procedure is spraying, which increases the humidity for a chrysanthemum that is used to growing outdoors. For spraying, which is best done in the morning, it is important to use only filtered water so as not to damage sensitive leaves.

Lighting

Chrysanthemums bloom with a decrease in daylight hours, they need 8-9 hours of light per day. It is necessary to protect indoor flowers from direct sunlight. You need to stick to the golden mean and put the pot on the western or eastern side, on the south side the chrysanthemum will dry out.

The soil

The land in which all parts of the chrysanthemum can feel comfortable should be about 70% nitrogen, it should also have a significant content of potassium, and phosphorus should be at a minimum.

The optimal composition of the earth mixture for indoor chrysanthemums, which can be made at home:

garden land;
turf;
humus;
river sand.

When planting and transplanting, some flower growers add chicken droppings to the soil. The earth should be constantly loosened, cultivated so that it does not roll into lumps, and all parts of the chrysanthemum grow evenly.

Timely transplants play an important role in preventing plants from drying out: for chrysanthemums under 5 years old - annually, older specimens - 2 times a year. It is preferable to transplant the plant in early spring, completely renewing the soil. Transplant rules must be followed:

the diameter of the pot should be 2 cm larger than the previous one;
drainage is needed;
there should be no voids in the earthen layer, but it is not necessary to add earth to the very top of the pot so that water does not spill during irrigation;
immediately after transplanting, the chrysanthemum needs good watering.

Fertilization

An important component of care is the proper application of fertilizer, with errors there is a high probability of the leaves drying up and stopping growth. Rules:

feeding should begin 2 weeks after planting, if there is a lack of nutrients, if there are enough, then fertilizers must be applied no earlier than a month after transplantation;
the optimal mode of fertilization is 2 times a month;
give nitrogen-containing fertilizers only during the growing season, if they are not enough, then few inflorescences will appear;
at the time of budding, apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, which give the flowers splendor, they are especially needed for terry varieties;
it is necessary to take into account the variety of chrysanthemums when making nutrients.

Nitrogen fertilizers are sometimes applied in the fall to increase the root system.

pruning

It is important to cut the stems and leaves of chrysanthemums, because thickening does not allow air to circulate normally, which provokes adverse processes in the foliage.

For correct formation bush cut the plant as follows:

cut the stems for the first time 2 weeks after planting;
it is necessary to cut off the top, on which there are 3-4 leaves, if necessary, pinch the top regularly;
process the cut points;
after the sample, apply nitrogenous fertilizer;
pruning during transplantation is contraindicated;
to accelerate flowering, it is recommended to cut small and weak buds;
after flowering, the stems should be cut to 10 cm;
be sure to cut off diseased stems.

Thanks to pruning, the chrysanthemum will acquire a spherical shape. Such pruning is carried out in the fall, after which the pot must be placed in a cool and dark place - a balcony, a terrace, a veranda - before the onset of spring. It is also necessary to get rid of old and withered inflorescences in time, completely infected parts of plants should be burned without residue.

Proper planting of chrysanthemum in a pot

Often varieties of Indian, Chinese, Korean chrysanthemums are purchased for keeping at home, they are unpretentious in care and easily adapt to home conditions. When buying a room chrysanthemum, it is often necessary to plant it in a pot, but this must be done carefully so that the flower develops normally, there are no prerequisites for adverse changes, in particular, for the leaves to dry out. It is necessary to adhere to certain rules:

if there are several branches of chrysanthemum, then the pot should be larger, the average diameter should be more than 10 cm;
the bottom of the pot should be covered with high-quality drainage;
the composition of the soil mixture must necessarily contain compost;
take care of the roots - they should partially remain on top;
immediately water the ground and spray the leaves;
the use of growth stimulants is allowed;
the pot must be placed where there will be enough sunlight.

If, upon purchase, it is clear that the leaves of room chrysanthemum are in a deplorable state (turn yellow, dry), then you need:

transplant the flower into a smaller pot;
get rid of rotten roots;
do new ground for the pot yourself;
do not water the chrysanthemum for a couple of days;
spray with growth stimulant Epin;
create greenhouse conditions, but with regular ventilation.

Conclusion

Many gardeners panic if the indoor chrysanthemum suddenly dried up, but you should not despair - you can help the plant if you approach this correctly. The first step should always be to establish the exact causes and determine the extent of the trouble. If only the leaves with no visible signs have dried up, then it is enough to change the conditions of detention so that everything returns to normal. If there are signs of disease and pest attacks, then there is a great danger of not saving the flower, this is a clear lesson in the importance of taking preventive measures.

In late summer or early autumn in flower shops and outlets colorful pots with chrysanthemums appear. Many people mistakenly think that these are annuals that can be thrown into the trash in winter. However, these bushes proper care will delight with flowering for more than one year.

Indoor chrysanthemums - types

Among this riot of colors, at first you can’t make out that all the pots differ from each other: the size and shape of the buds, the leaves and the type of crown. There are four types, among which indoor chrysanthemum flowers are divided into:

Chinese indoor chrysanthemum related to hybrids with simple large double flowers, the plant is tall and grows up to 130 cm;
came to us from the Canary Islands shrub species, it grows up to a meter in height, in warm regions it can also be grown in open ground;
record holder for the number in our markets - indian look, since he feels better than others on window sills and balconies;
bright balls - representatives Korean look they are in high demand.

How to care for room chrysanthemum?

Proper care is the key to flowering bush. It starts from the first days after purchase and continues even after flowering. Sometimes there is an opinion that caring for a room chrysanthemum is difficult and there is no guarantee of flowering for the next season. However, in many ways, flower growers themselves are to blame, because they are trying to care for chrysanthemums in the same way as for ordinary green plants on the windowsill.

Primer for room chrysanthemum

Land for room chrysanthemum is not something difficult or rare on sale. Perfect soil for flowering indoor plants, it is universal for all types of chrysanthemums. It is important to feed the plant for good growth and flowering. Loves indoor chrysanthemum chicken manure as a top dressing, it must be added in doses, otherwise the soil will be too acidic. For plant safety, the ground is always pierced in the oven. If the task is to get the maximum result, you can mix the ingredients yourself:

two parts of sod land;
part of deciduous;
part of the humus;
part of the sand, but with a large grain.

Pot for room chrysanthemum

You can look after a new flowerpot for your green pet only for the next season:

How to care for room chrysanthemum after purchase?

Any living creature after a change of place needs time to adapt and get used to it. On the other hand, such plants in stores are special treatment, and the soil in the pot will be transport. You can save a flower, for this there is quite simple recommendations, room chrysanthemum care after purchase is as follows:

Indoor chrysanthemum - flowering

We buy flowering bushes so that the bright colors of the buds decorate the windowsill. However, making the bush bloom is not so easy. Often this is the result of improper care. It also happens that a room chrysanthemum bush needs to be helped to bloom, care at home needs to be corrected:

the plant will bloom only at temperatures above 18 ° C, the bush does not feel well in extreme heat;
the flowering period will prolong the correct watering, when it is possible to maintain a balance and prevent the soil from drying out, in the morning and in the evening do not forget about spraying with water;
you can’t fertilize the ground before or after flowering, we feed the indoor chrysanthemum only after the buds open - poor soil and little top dressing common cause lack of flowering;
potash and phosphate fertilizers have a beneficial effect on the appearance of buds;
if you don’t pinch the shoots in time, the bush will stand green and lush, but without buds (you won’t be able to correct the situation, so you can’t forget about the formation of shoots);
when the daylight hours are less than seven hours, the plant will not have enough strength to bloom, it is important to provide enough light and heat.

Indoor chrysanthemum - care after flowering

A dormant period is a prerequisite for the further life of any plant. But it is not enough to cut faded buds from the shoots; competent wintering will help prolong the life of the flower. When your indoor chrysanthemum has faded, there are four possible solutions for what to do next:

How to propagate indoor chrysanthemum?

When your chrysanthemum has grown stronger and has given young shoots, it can be propagated. There are several ways how indoor chrysanthemum reproduces:

Transplanting room chrysanthemum

Young plants require a new flowerpot every season. Adult plants feel quite comfortable in the same flowerpot for two years in a row. Before transplanting indoor chrysanthemum, it should be prepared. We replace the soil completely, but we keep the recipe for its composition. Each subsequent flowerpot should be one and a half liters more, and a couple of centimeters wider. The algorithm of actions is no different from planting young plants: do not forget about the drainage layer, slightly compact the soil at the roots.

How to cut indoor chrysanthemum?

In addition to pruning after flowering, pruning is used to form a bush. In the question of how to care for indoor chrysanthemums in a pot, this moment is not the last:

the beginning of pruning for formation falls on the fifteenth day after planting the plant in a pot;
a piece with several leaves is cut off from a stem about 12 cm long;
then start;
after another two weeks, new shoots can be found in the sinuses.

How to water indoor chrysanthemum?

One of the difficulties for the gardener is watering indoor chrysanthemums. Here you will have to constantly maintain a balance between wet and wet soil. The classic solution with a saucer or a tray of water will not work either, this will lead to rotting of the roots. Varieties that can be grown in a pot were originally garden ones - we do not neglect spraying, we carry out the procedure only in the morning.

Diseases of room chrysanthemum

Among fungal diseases, verticillium wilt can be called frequent. This is one of the reasons why room chrysanthemum leaves dry. Of these fungal diseases, it is worth fearing and, and septoria cause no less problems. Among viral ailments, aspermia, dwarfism, ring spot and mosaic threaten the chrysanthemum.

Flowers chrysanthemums (lat. Chrysanthemum) belong to the genus of herbaceous annuals and perennials of the Asteraceae family, or Asteraceae. The genus includes about 30 species, whose representatives grow in areas with cool and temperate climate and mostly in Asia. In garden culture, chrysanthemum has been known for over a thousand years, and the plant came to Europe in the 17th century. Many chrysanthemums can be grown outdoors, but there are species that grow well in greenhouses and at home.

Planting and caring for chrysanthemum (in brief)

Bloom: usually in autumn or winter.
Lighting: bright diffused light - western or eastern window sills.
Temperature: in summer - 20-23 ˚C in autumn and spring - 15-18 ˚C, in winter - 3-8 ˚C.
Watering: during the period of active growth - at least 2 times a week: the substrate in the pot should be slightly damp all the time.
Air humidity: recommended morning and evening spraying from a spray bottle.
Top dressing: during the period of active growth, adult chrysanthemum is fed with mineral fertilizers every 10 days. When fertilizing with organic solutions in a weak concentration, intervals of 4 days are observed. With the beginning of the formation of buds, feeding is stopped.
rest period: after flowering is complete, cut off the shoots and place the pot in a dark, cool place with a temperature of 2-3 ˚C until spring, when the plant begins to produce new shoots.
Transfer: young plants - annually at the beginning of active growth. Adult plants are transplanted once every 2-3 years.
Reproduction: cuttings, dividing the bush, rarely - seeds.
Pests: aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennits.
Diseases: affected by powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.

Read more about growing chrysanthemums below.

Home flower chrysanthemum - features

Home chrysanthemum is not large in size, because it is grown by artificially stopping growth with specially designed preparations. Although there have been cases that from an acquired cutting home chrysanthemum It turned out a plant of garden size.

Usually indoor chrysanthemum is a low-growing variety of mulberry chrysanthemum, or Chinese, which are profusely flowering bushes from 15 to 70 cm high. Their flowers can be small, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, or large - up to 5 cm in diameter, moreover the same varieties of home chrysanthemums differ in the shape of the flowers. In addition to Chinese chrysanthemum, varieties of Korean and Indian chrysanthemums are grown in home culture.

Chrysanthemum blooms at home usually in autumn and winter, but in order for its flowering to last as long as possible, it should be created for the plant optimal conditions and follow certain rules of care.

Chrysanthemum care at home

How to care for chrysanthemums

What conditions of detention does a home chrysanthemum require? How to care for chrysanthemum in the apartment? Firstly, it is necessary to establish a temperature regime that is comfortable for her, secondly, to observe the required level of illumination, and thirdly, to maintain the optimal water balance for the flower.

It is difficult to call a chrysanthemum a heat-loving plant, so in summer it feels best at a temperature of 20-23 ºC, in the autumn-spring period - at 15-18 ºC, and in winter at 3-8 ºC. It is in compliance with this temperature regime many buds are tied, and the flowering of chrysanthemum is long and plentiful.

As for lighting, growing chrysanthemums in a pot is carried out on the windowsills of windows oriented to the east or west, since flowers on the southern windows can wither from excess sun, and on the northern ones they bloom poorly. But chrysanthemums in pots feel best on cool, but well-lit verandas, balconies and loggias, and with the onset of real heat, it is advisable to take the chrysanthemum out into the yard.

During the period of active growth, you will need to pinch and trim the chrysanthemum to form a dense and lush bush. In addition, it is necessary to regularly remove wilted inflorescences and yellowed leaves.

Watering chrysanthemums

Successful cultivation of chrysanthemums requires first of all proper watering. Chrysanthemum is moisture-loving, so the soil in its pot should be slightly damp all the time. Caring for a chrysanthemum at home involves moistening the soil during the period of active growth at least twice a week. Make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out, but you should also not allow excess moisture in the pot and pan.

In the hot season, it is advisable to spray the chrysanthemum in the morning or in the evening from a spray bottle. This is not to say that the flower needs spraying so badly, but this procedure refreshes the plant and adds to its attractiveness.

Chrysanthemum transplant

Caring for homemade chrysanthemum in pots involves the annual transplantation of young plants into a large container. Adult chrysanthemums, if necessary, can be transplanted once every two to three years. As a substrate, you can use a mixture of ordinary garden soil, turf, humus and white sand in a ratio of 4:4:1:1, and in order for the chrysanthemum to bloom abundantly, a little bird droppings should be added to the soil mixture. Do not plant chrysanthemum in acidic soil, she does not like it. Before filling a new pot with soil mixture, a layer of drainage should be placed in it, and the substrate should be shed with boiling water and dried.

Top dressing of chrysanthemums

Caring for home chrysanthemum requires fertilizing the substrate. The plant responds well to complex mineral supplements because potassium and phosphorus stimulate flowering. In order for the plant to bloom as early as possible, it is fed with a solution of potassium monophosphate in a ratio of 1:10 or any other complex fertilizer in which the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will be 1:3:2. Chrysanthemum also responds well to liquid organics. An adult flower requires introduction into the ground mineral fertilizers every 10 days, and a solution of mullein (1 part fertilizer dissolved in 10 liters of water) should be applied at intervals of 4 days. Feed the chrysanthemum up to the beginning of the formation of buds.

Chrysanthemum care after flowering

As soon as the chrysanthemum fades, it must be put into a dormant state. Cut off its shoots and place the plant pot in the cellar, where the chrysanthemum will wait for spring at a temperature of +2 to -3 ºC. As soon as the chrysanthemum begins to produce new shoots, it will need to be transplanted into a large container and returned to its previous conditions.

Reproduction of chrysanthemum in the apartment

Reproduction of chrysanthemum cuttings

The easiest way to propagate homemade chrysanthemum is with green non-lignified cuttings. As cuttings, side shoots about 10 cm long are cut from the branch, the leaves are removed from their lower part and then the cuttings are placed in water so that they grow roots. As soon as the length of the roots reaches 4-5 cm, they are planted several times in pots with a drainage layer and a substrate of a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction, the soil is compacted around them and watered. In order to stimulate the growth of side shoots, pinch the tops of the cuttings.

You can plant cuttings directly into the ground, bypassing the stage of growing roots in water, but in this case you need to cover the pot with cuttings with a plastic cap to create a greenhouse effect. The cap is removed daily for a while for ventilation and condensate is removed from it. As soon as the leaves of the cuttings restore turgor, and this is a sure sign that rooting has occurred, the cap can be removed.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by dividing the bush

During the next chrysanthemum transplant, it can be propagated by dividing the bush. The bush is taken out of the pot, the root system is carefully freed from the soil, washed and the plant is divided with a sterile instrument so that each part has several shoots and well-developed roots. Sections on the roots are treated with crushed coal. Planting chrysanthemums after division is carried out in the way we have already described.

Growing chrysanthemums from seeds

How to grow chrysanthemums from seeds? The best thing seed way Korean varieties and hybrids are propagated. Chrysanthemum seeds are sown in shallow containers with a drainage layer and a substrate roasted at a temperature of 110-130 º, consisting of peat and humus in equal parts. As a substrate, you can also use store-bought flower ground, which should also be disinfected before planting. close up seeds perennial varieties it is not necessary, they are only lightly pressed against the soil, sprayed with a spray bottle and covered with glass or film. Contain crops at a temperature of 23-25 ºC, airing, removing condensate from the coating and moistening the surface of the substrate as soon as necessary.

Shoots should appear in 1.5-2 weeks, and as soon as this happens, the boxes are transferred to the brightest place. The film is not removed from the crops immediately, but gradually increasing the duration of the ventilation sessions until the seedlings adapt to the conditions of the room.

At the stage of development of 2-4 true leaves, chrysanthemum seedlings are planted in separate containers with drainage and a substrate of the same composition, trying not to damage the roots. After transplantation, young plants are sprayed with a solution of Zircon or Epin-Extra so that they take root faster and begin to develop. In the future, the temperature of the seedlings is lowered to 16-18 ºC and they continue to take care of them, already as adult plants.

As you can see, planting and caring for chrysanthemums at home is not at all difficult, while the pleasure of seeing chrysanthemums blooming in your apartment can hardly be overestimated.

Pests and diseases of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum diseases

In improper conditions and with improper care, chrysanthemum can get sick with powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.

Powdery mildew is manifested by a loose whitish bloom on the leaves, petioles and shoots of the plant. With the development of the disease, the plaque becomes denser, turns brown, and the chrysanthemum loses its decorative effect. Disease-causing fungi are destroyed by treating the plant with solutions of Fundazol, Topsin, Topaz, Skora or other fungicidal preparations.

Septoria is also a fungal disease that can be diagnosed by gray-brown or rusty spots with a yellow border that occur on the leaves of the plant. These spots grow over the entire surface of the leaf, and black dots appear in their center - pycnidia of the fungus. Affected leaves and shoots dry out, the stems turn brown, wrinkle and bend. The diseased plant should be isolated, all affected leaves and shoots removed from it, and then treated with a solution of Kuproksat, Oxychoma or blue vitriol. Chrysanthemum should remain in quarantine until you are sure that it is healthy.

Gray rot, or botrytis, also has a fungal nature, but getting rid of this disease is more difficult than powdery mildew or septoria. The disease covers the ground organs with a gray fluffy coating, under which the tissues of the plant die. Botrytis is destroyed with Bordeaux liquid, and it is better to treat the plant with this drug before flowering begins.

Chrysanthemum pests

Of the pests, aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennits are dangerous for chrysanthemums.

Aphids, thrips and pennits are sucking pests that feed on plant cell sap. They are destroyed by treating chrysanthemums with insecticidal preparations such as Aktellik, Derris, Confidor, Biotlin or Aktara.

As for the nematode, it is a tiny thread-like worm, and it is impossible to detect its presence on the chrysanthemum. The appearance of white mosaic spots between the veins of the lower leaves, which gradually turn brown, may indicate the defeat of the plant by nematodes. In the future, the leaves curl up, dry and fall off, and mosaic spots begin to appear on the upper leaves. Infection with nematodes of domestic chrysanthemum can occur through soil that has not been disinfected. Unfortunately, you will not be able to save the plant from death, so it must be destroyed along with the soil in which it grew.

Types and varieties of home chrysanthemums

As we have already mentioned, undersized and dwarf varieties and hybrids of Chinese, Korean and Indian chrysanthemums are grown in room culture. Moreover, the founders of all modern varieties are Indian chrysanthemum, or small-flowered, and mulberry-leaved chrysanthemum, or large-flowered, or Chinese. The Korean chrysanthemum has a hybrid origin, although no one has seen the mulberry chrysanthemum growing in nature either. It should be said that the past garden chrysanthemum dark and confusing, and therefore it is better not to delve into it. We offer you a description of the most popular of the currently existing varieties of home chrysanthemum:

Malchish-Kibalchish- the height of the bush is not more than 30 cm, and the diameter can reach 60 cm. This is a profusely blooming chrysanthemum with non-double inflorescences like chamomile with a diameter of up to 7 cm of pink-lilac color;
Evening lights- height compact bush about 35 cm. Inflorescences are simple, up to 5.5 cm in diameter, red with a yellow ring around the middle;
First snow– diameter is plentiful flowering bush about half a meter, height no more than 35 cm. Inflorescences are white, semi-double, up to 5 cm in diameter;
Mascot- a bush in height does not exceed 25 cm. This variety has small dark crimson inflorescences up to 2 cm in diameter;
Cheburashka- compact hemispherical bushes up to 40 cm high with lilac terry inflorescences up to 4 cm in diameter;
barbarian- a bush up to 40 cm high, blooming so profusely that sometimes leaves are not visible due to pinkish-lilac terry inflorescences with a yellow middle;
Flamingo- a bush up to half a meter high with pale pink flowers up to 7.5 cm in diameter. Towards the center of the flower, the shade becomes more intense;
Pink cream- bushes up to 50 cm high with densely double inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter of a lilac-pink hue, which eventually becomes creamy pink;
leaf fall- a chameleon plant up to 45 cm high with inflorescences up to 7 cm in diameter of red-pink color, changing color to flesh-yellow;
raspberry pom pom – dwarf variety up to 30 cm high with pink-raspberry hemispherical inflorescences up to 6 cm in diameter;
Okishore- a low, but powerful bush, reaching a height of 50 cm, with lilac-pink inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter;
Syaivo- a variety of Ukrainian selection up to 60 cm high with large egg-yellow inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter;
apple blossom- bushes no more than 50 cm high with thick strong shoots and pinkish-white terry inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter.