Insulation of the balcony from the inside. Which balcony insulation to choose: an overview of the best materials

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The process of warming the room itself is very important, since with the help of such repairs drafts and cold are removed, and the space of the connected room is also expanded. But it is not enough just to put double-glazed windows and cover the cracks and holes with mounting foam. It needs to be warmed up. To save money in your wallet, it is better to insulate the loggia with your own hands, step by step photo instruction presented in the article will help to get the job done.

Amazing balcony with ecological materials

Initially, you need to select building materials. It is important to remember that not only thermal performance, but also may depend on the selected components. If the building material is too thick, it will steal the usable area.

Note! Any material for heat preservation must be environmentally friendly, as well as comply with thermal and steam characteristics.

The room can be insulated with the following materials:

  • Penofol . An excellent substitute for mineral wool. It has a multi-layer coating, which also has a reflective effect.
  • polyurethane foam . Perfect for balconies. It ignites very poorly, made from environmentally friendly materials. Installation is done by pouring.



  • Styrofoam . A fairly economical choice of material and also very effective for a balcony.

  • Isover . Issued in the form of sheets. Made from mineral wool, with glass fiber particles.


As a rule, expanded polystyrene is mounted on the walls and ceiling. It is good to use it, because its properties have a high coefficient of thermal conductivity, as well as a small thickness. It cuts perfectly with a kitchen knife. An alternative option is foam. For cold winter 10 cm thick sheets are suitable, for mild weather it is better to use 5 cm.

Related article:

Calculator for calculating the necessary insulation of a loggia or balcony

Calculator for calculating the thickness of the insulation of a loggia or balcony

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Do-it-yourself preparatory work and insulation of the loggia: step-by-step photo instructions

Before the main process, you should make preparatory work. Only then will it be possible to do the insulation of the loggia with your own hands, and a step-by-step photo instruction will help with this. This will require:

  • Select those places that will be accurately processed. In any case, you should definitely process the parapet. Walls can be processed as needed. If there are no neighbors on the sides, then they also need to be covered with building materials. Often the walls are all insulated.
  • Before repair, everything must be taken out and the surfaces cleaned.
  • It is recommended to change windows and install double-glazed windows if there are none.
  • Next, you need to lay wiring for sockets, lamps and switches.
  • The next step is to select a material.
  • After selecting the material, you can proceed to work with the floor, walls, then the ceiling.
  • Upon completion, finishing work should be done.

Fastening for thermal insulation, can serve as an adhesive composition, and dowels. If an adhesive composition is used, then in the process of work it will be necessary to glue the bonding area and the material itself.

Helpful advice! The resulting seams, which are obtained directly in the process of insulation, should be filled with mounting foam.

Penoplex and how to insulate a loggia with it

Many people dream of converting a balcony into a full-fledged room. But in order for the use of such a room to be comfortable, it will need to be insulated. As a rule, in apartments, parapets have thin walls. In this regard, at the initial stage, it will be necessary to demolish and lay it out on a new one. Thus, the wall will turn out thicker, and therefore warmer. It is recommended to use a brick, which is placed on the adhesive composition with an edge. Silicate brick is ideal for such masonry.

After the fresh masonry has shrunk, you can proceed with the installation of windows. To do this, it is recommended to use the services of professionals. Next, you can move on to warming. will be installed on the ceiling, walls and floor. Following the instructions, you can get started:

  • Cooked pieces should be placed in the frame. You can also not create a frame, but mount the plates immediately on the walls using special mounting fungi.

Helpful advice! Plates should be adjusted so that they become tightly one to one. This will get rid of the cracks, which means that it will be much warmer on the loggia. It is recommended to go through the joints with mounting foam or sealant.
  • Reflective insulation should be placed on the walls, ceiling, and floor. Penofol is ideal. Joints are recommended to be glued with foil tape.

  • After that, the balcony will be ready for final finishing. To do this, you can use lining made of wood or plastic, or install other panels.

We do it with our own hands. How to insulate the floor on the loggia?

The floor should be treated first, and then all other surfaces. The work process is as follows:

  • It is necessary to properly clean the floor from debris and dust.
  • Next, you need to close up any holes or cracks with foam.
  • Now you should use a thin one and put it on the entire floor. Lay it in such a way that there are no joints or there is a minimum number of them.
  • When the first layer is laid, you need to walk along its perimeter with building foam, including joints and seams. Then the second layer is laid by analogy.

  • Now you can mount the frame from a wooden beam. The distance between the bars should be about 50 cm.
  • The formed distance should be filled with polystyrene. The thickness of the insulation will depend on the thickness of the timber. Ideally when they are flush.
  • Next, you need to cut the penofol to the size of the balcony and lay it with the foil side up, but so that it peeks out about 20 cm on each wall.
  • Now you can fix the floor boards to the bars and mount the decorative coating.

As an option, the floor can be installed underfloor heating or loggias can be made with penoplex.

Insulation of the ceiling and walls of the loggia

For almost all types of premises, the insulation of walls and ceilings is the same. Thus, the walls are insulated like this:

For, foam is best suited. The process is carried out by analogy to the walls and floor.

Insulation of the loggia from the inside: what is better to do?

To select the right material, you should consider some important factors:

  • The purpose of the room.
    • If the balcony will be used as a pantry, then you can use any building material, mounting it in 1 layer.
    • When the balcony turns into one room, it is necessary to use different building materials, which are stacked in 2 layers, over the entire area.
    • If there is a combination with the room, then you need to use a two-layer insulation. Walls can be made in one layer, and special attention should be paid to the parapet.
  • Using heaters for interior decoration, the usable area will be less, so this factor should be taken into account.

The choice directly depends on the factors described and the tastes of the owner of the premises.

Finishing work

Finishing work needed. This is due not only to the aesthetic appearance, but also affects the protective factors. If we are talking about exterior decoration, then the parapet can be covered with corrugated board or siding.

Internal work, can be anything. It all depends on preferences and imagination. But it is worth noting that finishing the loggia inside with your own hands will bring more pleasure and joy. Often the work is done using PVC panels. You can also stick wallpaper or just paint the walls. The loggia looks very good in wood trim. It will be not only beautiful, but also environmentally friendly.

Article

Creating a favorable microclimate on the loggia involves not only wall insulation, the entire space must be airtight. The floor and ceiling surfaces are also sheathed with a material with a low degree of thermal conductivity. In our article, you will learn how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside.

The choice of heat insulator

Advantages and disadvantages are inherent in each type of thermal insulation. In order to choose the most suitable insulation, you should compare the main characteristics of heat insulators.

The most common options for heat insulators:

  • Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
  • Foamed polyethylene (penofol);
  • Polyurethane foam (PPU);
  • Styrofoam;
  • Mineral wool.

Mineral wool

The thickness of the sheets varies from 2 to 20 cm. Mineral wool is divided into three types, depending on the components of the raw materials:

An example of a mineral wool device on a loggia. The material is placed in the prepared structure. The frame for mounting can be made of metal profiles or wooden bars.

Manufacturers produce cotton wool in the form of mats and soft rolls. In some cases, one side is covered with foil. Aluminum foil improves the level of thermal insulation.

The main disadvantage is that moisture acts destructively, a vapor barrier device is necessary.

Polymer-based insulation

Penoplex, polyurethane foam, polystyrene, foamed polyethylene are polymers treated with foamed compounds.

Advantages:

  • The presence of gas bubbles provides not only good level thermal insulation, but also the small weight of the plates;
  • High degree of moisture resistance;
  • The materials are durable;
  • Antifungal resistance;
  • Simplicity and convenience when laying plates or sheets, as well as rolls (polyethylene foam);
  • An economical repair option, subject to the choice of foam as a heater.

Main disadvantage: support the spread of flame during a fire, emit harmful substances in the combustion process.

When choosing foam and other materials based on polymers, it is necessary to correctly select the thickness of the plates and determine the density

1. Styrofoam sheets

Insulator plates (expanded polystyrene) in the process of laying.

Styrofoam refers to budget methods loggia insulation, however, it is considered a rather fragile material, so a crate is required for installation. A worthy replacement is extruded polystyrene foam; its installation does not require the creation of a special frame.

2. Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam boards (thickness 50 mm) are used as insulation. The seams between the elements are sealed with mounting foam. Penoplex is attached with the help of special dish-shaped dowels ("fungi").

3. Penofol

The material is used as a separate heat insulator, and with the help of penofol it is possible to provide a vapor barrier of expanded polystyrene. Due to the foil side, warm air is reflected and retained in the room.

In order to speed up the insulation of the structure, you can use an alternative method of thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam (PPU).

4. Polyurethane foam

PPU is one of the most modern heat insulators. The cost of application services is considered high compared to other analogues, however, many have managed to evaluate the performance properties of PPU. This insulation is characterized by high thermal insulation performance, due to the finely porous structure.

The main stages of work on the insulation of the loggia space

In order to increase the usable area in your home and operate the premises all year round, you must:

1. Close the gaps, if any. Carefully study the room to eliminate all design flaws. As a rule, the gaps are filled with mounting foam, even if they are of a significant size.

After complete drying, it is necessary to trim the excess.

2. Glazing with reliable double-glazed windows.

3. Arrange a waterproofing layer. To protect against moisture, waterproofing with penetrating properties is used - Penetron, Aquaton, etc. The composition is applied with a roller, brush, or sprayed. Such impregnation penetrates into the thickness, so the walls become maximally resistant to adverse weather, and strength characteristics are improved.

5. Installation of a vapor barrier layer. In order to make a vapor barrier, special polymer membranes (“breathing”) should be used, as well as films “Rockwool”, “Izospan”, penofol.

Balcony decoration

Purposes of creating interior decoration:

  • External masking of the heat insulator;
  • Organization of a favorable internal environment in the room.

To create an interior balcony, you can choose various options finishes. Plaster, plastic panels, MDF, lining, plywood, plasterboard sheets and even a block house are perfect for the finishing layer.

The lining panels are environmentally friendly and reliable. One of the main advantages of the finishing material is rigidity. The lining is fixed on a wooden frame crate.

The walls of the loggia are lined with clapboard, the flooring is laminate.

Facing the balcony with a block house.

The plastic panels have grooves for connecting elements. Plastic variant lining has less rigidity and strength than wood.

Installation of GKLV sheets on metal profiles. Plasterboard slabs can be decorated with wallpaper, painted, or lined with decorative plaster.

Wall decoration with wallpaper over GKLV sheets.

Bamboo wallpaper. The basis for finishing - drywall.

Video

1. The result of warming the loggia.

Glazed balcony. Demonstration of electrical outputs. Testing the strength of extruded polystyrene foam. The use of foam plastic with a thickness of 30 and 50 mm, wall finishing with putty. Concrete floor screed over insulation boards.

2. Stages repair work on the balcony.

Sequential process of arranging the premises. Scheme of thermal insulation of walls with polystyrene foam and foamed polyethylene, finishing - plastic panels. Floor: leveling, thermal insulation, OSB cladding, installation of laminate lamellas.

What and how best to insulate the balcony from the inside with your own hands

The loggia is a part of the apartment that requires high-quality insulation. If you leave it in its original state, then in winter the cold will penetrate into the rest of the premises, and this is an extra cash cost for heating. Owners who do not know how and with what to insulate the balcony on their own invite workers whose services cost a lot of money. And it’s good if hired craftsmen turn out to be professionals, because contractors with a lack of qualification often come to the call.

If we take professionals as an example, they first visually assess the condition of the balcony and take into account the year in which it was built. apartment house. Then they pay attention to the frame (metal or wooden) and evaluate the dilapidation of the skin. Last but not least, experienced workers compare neighboring loggias and can offer the owner to make a design in the same style as them.

Because of the old-style balconies, all the work becomes more complicated, especially if this building is not closed, but open. In this case, the craftsmen are engaged in additional strengthening of the structure and the replacement of rotten parts: they cut off the rusted metal elements of the frame and reconstruct concrete pad. Upper and Bottom part balcony is reinforced without fail.

It is after the measures to restore the structure that the specialists are engaged in facing and internal thermal insulation of the room. Often, owners prefer to equip their balconies with foam blocks and double-glazed windows. The stones are laid out at half the total height of the loggia, and the open space is closed with windows. As a result, not only an attractive appearance of the building is created, but also its strength is significantly increased. By the way, a double-glazed window will significantly warm the room.

If the owner of the apartment changes the windows to plastic ones, then it is advisable for him to purchase products with double glass, since single ones retain heat by only 30% in the cold season.

Without preparing the balcony, one cannot approach subsequent cardinal actions. Before purchasing materials for warming the loggia, inside the premises, specialists carry out the following work:

The interior arrangement of the loggia concerns not only the ceiling and walls. It is equally important to insulate the floor, for example, with penofol.

For internal insulation of almost all structures, expanded polystyrene is very widely used. Its low cost does not affect the quality. It is sold in the form of plates with a thickness of 5 cm or more. If the apartment is located in the conditions of the north, then it is better to use sheets 15 cm thick. For the installation of foam, they make a crate with the same cells. Expanded polystyrene is convenient in that it can be easily cut with an ordinary knife.

The positive aspects of this insulation is that it is odorless, does not emit harmful substances, environmentally friendly and does not affect human health. Sheets, as a rule, are fixed on special "umbrellas" or building glue. As a savings, it is better to insulate the balcony inside it.

Mineral wool is also quite popular. Such a heater at a price slightly more expensive than polystyrene foam, but this is due additional sound insulation that the material has. Therefore, using mineral wool, you can not only insulate the structure with high quality, but also eliminate street noise. It is sold in the form of yellow rolls.

The fire safety of this insulation is at a high level, and the absence of a specific smell makes mineral wool one of the most popular. The material begins to melt at a temperature of 1000 degrees. Under such rolls, it is also necessary to make a crate. Another plus is easy cutting. The disadvantage is due to the composition, which includes powdered glass, which sticks into the skin when working and causes itching and redness.

Penoplex - new insulation, which appeared on the building materials market relatively recently and has already become popular. It has a low weight, due to which it is convenient to work with it. Penoplex is produced in the form of rectangular sheets, the cutting of which is possible even with a clerical knife. According to the method of attachment, it is similar to foam, which is glued or fixed with fasteners. The surface of the material is rough, so it does not slip in the hands.

Granular expanded clay is often laid on the floor. Such insulation for a balcony inside has a porous structure and consists of baked clay, so it is environmentally friendly. Builders use it to insulate floors and ceilings.

The work process is simple, it is enough to create a layer of expanded clay and spill it with liquid cement so that the granules are held together. But keep in mind that such material will take 15-20 cm of height from floor to ceiling. In addition, a thin-layer screed will have to be poured over the expanded clay, because the relief surface will not be suitable for laying, for example, the same parquet or laminate.

Another option for insulation - penofol. It is made from polyethylene foam. The material is especially suitable for water-heated floors, as it has a foil coating with a heat-reflecting effect. This insulation has 4 advantages: it does not let the wind through, retains heat, prevents the penetration of water and has vapor barrier properties. Penofol is flexible and easy to cut, and environmentally pure substances do not harm human health. They produce insulation in the form of rolls, therefore, it is convenient to work with it. The installation process takes no more than 1 hour.

As previously mentioned, foam plastic is cheap, but nevertheless it is practical, many builders use it. What is the best way to insulate a balcony from the inside with polystyrene foam:

The thickness of the wall from the edge of the interior to the exterior, taking into account the foam block, should be 30 cm. This is enough to retain heat and prevent the penetration of cold into the room.

Pouring concrete, expanded clay layer and similar methods cost a lot of money. You can make a similar insulation, but at the same time save money. An option for a cheap finish made of wood and foam can be like this:

Specialists always start finishing from the walls and ceiling, and at the end they deal with the floor. If everything is done the other way around, then the base will be damaged, and the front surface will be scratched.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: from a refrigerator to a warm island

To begin with, it is worth saying that there are two ways to insulate a balcony - from the inside and outside. External insulation, of course, is more convenient - precious centimeters of area are not “eaten up”, and the cladding of the balcony facade becomes more pleasant. But this is a laborious process that requires the involvement of a construction team and industrial climbers. Therefore, in the article we will focus on how to properly insulate a balcony in an apartment from the inside - this can be done independently.

For insulation inside the balcony, first of all, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. They include several important steps:

  • How to start warming a loggia or balcony? Free up space from all unnecessary. It is best if the balcony is completely empty: it is much easier to work this way. Also, get rid of the old finish in advance.
  • Seal all the cracks - a lot of heat escapes through them. For small gaps, a weather-resistant sealant is suitable, fill larger gaps with mounting foam - it will not only fill the voids, but also serve as an additional heat insulator.
  • To make it easier for you to carry out work on insulation, it is important to even out cracks and irregularities on the walls and ceiling with cement mortar.
  • If you plan to place light bulbs or lighting fixtures on the balcony, you should take care of the wiring in advance. To hide unpresentable cables, place them in plastic boxes.
  • Before starting work, cover the opening between the balcony and the adjoining room with a film so that building dust and other pollutants did not get into the apartment.

Is it possible to insulate a balcony in winter? Yes, you can. Only when working in winter, it is necessary to choose frost-resistant materials, in particular mounting foam.

How to insulate a balcony: what materials are better to choose

To understand how to insulate a loggia or balcony, let's first figure out what properties the materials should have:

  • high strength;
  • fire safety;
  • water resistance;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • relatively low cost;
  • ease of installation (if we want to do all the work with our own hands).

Most often, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene, etc. are used for insulation. Sometimes several of these materials are combined. We have reflected the pros and cons of each heat insulator in the table:

insulation Advantages Flaws Expanded clay Low cost;
Durability;
fire safety;
Not afraid of mold and mildew;
Light weight;
Easily takes any shape High moisture permeability;
Suitable only for floor insulation;
May be difficult to install Mineral wool Good sound and heat insulation;
Environmental friendliness;
fire safety;
Easily takes any shape Deterioration of properties when exposed to water;
The thickness of the insulation "steals" the usable area Styrofoam Low cost;
Ease of installation;
Light weight;
Not afraid of mold and mildew fragility;
combustibility Extruded polystyrene boards High strength;
Ease of installation;
moisture resistance;
Durability Relatively high cost polyurethane foam(liquid insulation) High strength;
moisture resistance;
Durability;
Fills cavities of any shape Relatively high cost;
Mandatory availability of special equipment Penofol(foamed polyethylene with a layer of metal foil) moisture resistance;
Durability;
Small thickness;
Good thermal and waterproofing Rarely used as an independent heat insulator, usually only in combination with other materials

What is the best insulation for a balcony? The answer to this question depends on your preferences and financial capabilities. You can read more about the characteristics of heaters, as well as about the insulation of an apartment as a whole, in our blog.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step photos and instructions

A balcony is a place in an apartment that can be used for various purposes. Someone stores various things there, someone uses it to dry clothes, and someone makes a favorite resting place out of the balcony or even small room. In any case, balcony insulation is very important point which deserves close attention. If you want to know how to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step photos and detailed instructions can be easily found on the internet. The main thing is to avoid common mistakes and strictly adhere to the correct sequence of actions.

There are several points where many people make mistakes when self-insulation balcony:

  • Rush. Often the insulation of the balcony occurs in haste. Usually, this involves filling the cracks with putty, installing warm windows and plugging in a radiator. At the same time, the heat from the apartment continues to leave through the balcony, which is very surprising to its owner.
  • Usage poor quality materials. Therefore, how to insulate the balcony inside - important question, which you need to ask before starting work. The balcony is pretty large space, so bad windows or improperly installed flooring can create a serious leak of warm air.

In order for the balcony and the entire apartment to be as protected from the cold as possible, a certain procedure should be followed. So you save time, effort and get high quality insulation. If you want to know how to insulate a balcony with your own hands, step-by-step photos will help you with this.

Installation of double-glazed windows

The first stage, from which the insulation of any room begins, is the installation of modern double-glazed windows. If you have old wooden frames, then very a large number of warm, no matter how warm. But when installing double-glazed windows on a balcony, there is one nuance that distinguishes it from other rooms - the parapet. On many old balconies, it is not strong enough to support the weight of heavy metal-plastic windows. In this case, it will have to be further strengthened.

Helpful advice! It is best to strengthen the parapet with reinforcement. The thick iron bars and cement will hold up well to any extra weight. The brick version is also good, but it is thicker and heavier.

Before you insulate the balcony with your own hands, you need to decide on the material of the window structures - these can be frames made of PVC, aluminum or wood.

Stages of work on the insulation of the balcony

Properties of different types of windows

Wooden frames are the cheapest, but not the best option in terms of window properties. Wooden windows do not retain heat well, they are not airtight. It is worth using them only if there are no severe colds in your latitudes.

Aluminum windows are more expensive, but retain heat better. In addition, they are the most reliable and durable, excellently resist corrosion and other negative influences.

PVC frames - best option in terms of price and quality ratio. Polyvinyl chloride is not afraid of dampness and temperature changes. It is not as resistant to stress as aluminum, but it provides the highest level of thermal conductivity.

How to insulate a balcony so that it is warm in winter? The following types of windows are well suited for this purpose:

With hinged doors;

With double glazing;

with extended profiles.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: step by step photos

When insulating a balcony, one of the most important points is the thickness of the insulation layer. Often it turns out that it is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor with the ceiling. The main criterion for a material for insulation is its thermal conductivity. This figure is inversely proportional to the amount of heat that the material can hold. One of the most frequently asked questions when insulating is what is the best way to insulate a balcony: foam or mineral wool? It all depends on your financial capabilities.

The most common material for insulating balconies is extruded polystyrene foam. It is thin, light, easy to cut and install, durable and resists moisture and corrosion well. Its only drawback is the rather high cost. In this case budget option insulation for the balcony is foam. It is also lightweight and easy to install, however, less durable.

Crack sealing

There are gaps in any old balcony - this is an axiom. Heat will escape through numerous cracks even if you have installed the warmest and most modern double-glazed windows. It is best to seal them with polyurethane sealants and mastics, which are quite plastic, hold for a long time and are resistant to various kinds of natural influences, such as frost or wind.

The cracks are sealed with a special gun or a plastic nozzle that comes with the balloon. After the mastic or sealant has completely dried, you can proceed to the installation of the insulation. If you do not know how to insulate a balcony with your own hands, a step-by-step photo will help you in this moment.

How to insulate the floor and walls on the balcony with your own hands

After choosing and buying a heater, it must be fixed. Usually, this is done with dowels or construction adhesive. When mounting with glue, you need to choose a composition without toluene - it can corrode the material. If you decide to attach the insulation with dowels, then they must be placed around the perimeter with a calculation of approximately 10 dowels per one square meter.

Use when warming the balcony with your own hands step by step instructions, photos and videos that can be found on specialized resources.

Stages of insulation of the walls of the balcony:

Installation of a vapor barrier film with gluing joints with construction tape;

Installation of a crate made of wooden bars or a metal profile;

Installation of insulation - foam, mineral wool, etc.;

Sheathing of the crate with moisture-resistant plasterboard, plywood or other sheet materials;

Wall finishing.

Helpful advice! The seams between the layers of insulation or foam plates must be sealed with mounting foam. This will prevent heat loss through them.

Each type of surface has its own nuances of insulation. So, before warming the floor, it is worth leveling and laying waterproofing on it. And the use of vapor barrier tape will insure you against such troubles as fungus and mold. The walls and ceiling can be sheathed with moisture-resistant drywall. Photos of the design of the insulated balcony show that drywall, with proper finishing, looks great here.

Stages of insulation of the balcony floor:

Installation of a waterproofing film with the processing of joints with moisture-resistant mastic or sealant;

Laying a heat insulator - for example, foam;

fill concrete screed 4-5 cm thick (electric floor heating can be additionally installed in the screed);

It is possible to equip and insulate the floor on the balcony without using a concrete screed. To do this, after arranging the waterproofing, wooden logs are laid in the longitudinal direction of the balcony, which are attached to the concrete base. A heat-insulating material is laid between the lags - foam plastic, basalt wool, expanded clay, etc. Boards or sheet material (plywood, chipboard, etc.) are attached to the logs and the floor is finished.

Balcony roof insulation

If the roof of your balcony is not the floor of the neighbor's, then a separate approach is needed to warm it. The video "How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands" clearly demonstrates the whole process. It is necessary to choose a reliable roofing material, it is desirable to apply sound insulation in the form of spraying or film on its inside. The following layers are also used:

Waterproofing - PVC or polyester films are perfect here;

Windproof membrane - allows steam from the insulation to pass through, but does not allow drops that can penetrate with the wind;

Anti-condensation layer - does not allow water vapor to drain onto the insulation;

Wooden frame - holds the roof;

Insulation itself - serves for thermal insulation of the roof;

Insulation vapor barrier - retains the insulating properties of the insulation, does not let water vapor inside it.

Additional insulation

In order to keep your balcony warm even in the most severe frosts, you can install a radiator, air conditioning or even a warm floor on it. The answer to the question "What is the best way to insulate balconies from the inside?" depends on your imagination, needs and financial possibilities.

If the balcony is combined with the room, then additional insulation can not be installed, the air conditioner will do a good job with this task. But there is a nuance - the air will warm up, but the floor will still remain cold, even if it is covered with carpet covering. Therefore, underfloor heating is a very appropriate option for complete insulation of the balcony. Installation of a warm floor is another difficult moment that is best left to experienced professionals. A step-by-step video instruction for warming a balcony with your own hands also helps here.

The better to insulate the balcony inside, the nuances of insulation in different seasons

Sometimes it happens that it is necessary to warm the balcony in winter. Many are interested in whether it is worth doing it and what it threatens. It all depends on the materials used for insulation. Some of them change their properties at sub-zero temperatures, and it becomes more difficult to process and mount them.

It is rather problematic to insulate a balcony with penoplex with your own hands in winter, and cement in the cold freezes very quickly and does not have time to really grasp. This leads to weakening of the masonry and the rapid destruction of the parapet. But there are a number of special winter adhesives and mixtures that are focused on use when low temperatures. A video of do-it-yourself balcony insulation in winter can also be found on the Internet.

Mounting foam also depends on temperature. If you choose the “summer” option for winter insulation, then this will not lead to anything good - the foam will quickly collapse and become unusable.

Another important point to consider when warming is dampness. You can often encounter it if you warm the balcony in autumn or spring. Most types of glue or mastic do not stick to a damp surface, and humidity also has a very bad effect on the performance properties of insulation, if it is not foam. That is why it is necessary to start the insulation and waterproofing of the balcony from the ceiling. In this case, sudden rain will not prevent you from continuing to insulate the walls and floor.

Helpful advice! Balcony insulation with penoplex and penofol can be done even in conditions high humidity.

From the foregoing, it can be seen that it is possible to insulate a balcony not only in summer. The only exception is if the temperature drops below 20 degrees. Then even the most frost-resistant materials begin to behave very badly, and normal insulation will not work, even if you know for sure how to properly insulate the balcony from the inside.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the balcony: step-by-step instructions and recommendations

If the answer to the question "How to insulate a balcony with your own hands?" and step-by-step photos can be easily found on the Internet, then the interior decoration is completely up to you. The best option here is drywall, which is moisture resistant and easy to further finish: painting, tiling, wallpapering.

Wiring can be hidden in hollow plastic casings so that it is not conspicuous, and carpeting can be laid on the floor. step by step video"How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands" will help you decide on the type of insulation and interior design.

By the way, one of the most frequently asked questions is “How much does it cost to insulate a balcony and finish it?”. There is no exact answer to it, it all depends on the selected materials and the complexity of the work.

Warming the balcony from the inside with your own hands: step by step instructions

Insulation of a balcony (loggia) is a significant part of the measures for thermal insulation of housing in general. At the same time, the external version of the work is not applicable for all cases. The ban on external insulation applies to buildings located on the "red line", that is, facades facing avenues and central squares of cities. External insulation is considered unacceptable for buildings of historical significance, with some architectural styles buildings. In such situations, the only available solution is to insulate the balcony with your own hands from the inside.

Internal thermal insulation

Depending on how exactly the balcony is made and how the insulation is organized at the neighbors from above and below, the option for arranging thermal insulation is selected:

  • only outdoor plate fencing combined with high-quality double-glazed frames. Such a measure is sufficient for loggias, which are almost completely hidden in the building and go out only on one side;
  • outer and side walls. The option is acceptable for balconies, similar rooms are thermally insulated from below and above (at the neighbors);
  • full insulation - walls, floor and ceiling. The most rational option, provided there is no insulation from the neighbors above and below, as well as large area contact with the external environment.

Balcony insulation from the inside can be done with one or more materials. At the same time, in addition to heat-insulating properties, such qualities of materials as the ability to resist moisture, ultraviolet radiation, dampen noise and create a sufficiently strong support for finishing materials (the latter especially applies to the floor) are considered.

Comparison of thermal insulation materials

The table below gives a comparative description of popular heat-insulating materials. A meter-thick brick wall was taken as a standard for comparison: in the climatic conditions of the central zone of the Russian Federation, it is this thickness that is considered sufficient for high-quality thermal insulation at average (not record!) Winter and summer temperatures.

Material name Layer thickness providing equivalent 1 m brickwork thermal insulation, mm Advantages Flaws
Wood (beam, board) 380 Environmental friendliness, aesthetic appearance, you can do without finishing, high-quality sound insulation Flammable, requires for fastening the crate or leveling the walls (floor, ceiling), not resistant to moisture, large thickness and high price
Mineral wool 140 Inexpensive and proven material, dampens sound well, slightly combustible Requires battens for fastening, has a large thickness, surface finishing is required
Penofol, foiled on one side 107 High-quality thermal and sound insulation, resistance to moisture, ease of installation (especially for self-adhesive varieties), environmental friendliness The high price, due to foiling in contact with bare wiring, can provoke a short circuit. Requires a ventilation gap, cannot be finished with wallpaper or plaster due to the softness of the material
Penofol, foiled on both sides
Penofol self-adhesive
Basalt fiber 87 Does not burn, has high sound and heat insulating properties, the plate version is quite simple to install High price, the need for crates for soft roll varieties
Fiberglass 85 Inexpensive, with good insulating characteristics In case of fire, it melts with the release of toxic substances; it requires protection in living quarters and during installation
Styrofoam 83 Good thermal insulation, long service life, very low price, ease of installation Toxicity at high temperatures (depending on the manufacturer), low sound absorption coefficient
Expanded polystyrene extruded 65 Ease of installation, good thermal and sound insulation, moisture resistance High price, toxicity during combustion and high heat, fire hazard
Penoplex
Penoizol 55 Inexpensive, high-quality insulator, non-flammable, saves space Requires pouring into prepared cavities, therefore it is of little use without a major restoration of the balcony

In the absence of severe financial restrictions and the desire to independently carry out all the work, mainly plate and roll materials are considered - mineral or basalt fiber, polystyrene, extruded, polystyrene foam, foam plastic, penofol. Further, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and its permissible reduction are taken into account. For small sizes, it is desirable to insulate and sheathe a balcony with minimal space loss, without a crate or its small cross section. Thus, with relatively flat floors, ceilings and walls, we will consider in detail for walls and ceilings: extruded polystyrene and polystyrene for plastering, double-sided foil foam under the crate with subsequent cladding. For the floor, we will take two options - mineral wool in a crate for an OSB subfloor, followed by laminate flooring, and self-adhesive mats for installing an electric (cable) underfloor heating, followed by laying tiles.

We believe that balcony frames have an acceptable coefficient of heat and sound insulation and do not need additional insulation along the contour.

Ceiling and wall decoration

Taking into account the use of the same material for walls and ceilings, we consider the procedure for their thermal insulation together, since the technology differs little. It is important to understand: despite the option considered in the table with a thickness of insulation similar to a meter brickwork, in practice a thinner layer is required. It also depends on the planned use of the premises. If it will be used as residential, we accept the maximum layer thickness (from the table). If the balcony should be “cold”, that is, its insulation is minimal and is performed only to reduce heat loss from housing, it is permissible to reduce the thickness by 2 ... 3 times.

Step-by-step insulation of the balcony with extruded polystyrene

The initial stage of work is the preparation of surfaces. It is necessary, if possible, to remove old finishing materials from them (wallpaper, tiles, paint, plaster) and clean weakly holding sections of the main wall. Existing protrusions must be cut down to a height of 1 ... 3 mm, cracks and potholes should be cleaned (embroidered) and filled repair mix. The role of the repair composition can be specialized materials (for more details, see the article “Repair of cracks in concrete”) or a mixture cement-sand mortar with tile adhesive. After the completion of the filling of defects, plastering or puttying is performed, the thickness of the layer depends on the existing irregularities.

After complete drying of the surface, marking is carried out taking into account the available dimensions of the plates and cutting of the plate material. Plates of extruded polystyrene are attached to the joint, so it is desirable to cut the cutting as accurately as possible. The procedure is performed using a construction knife. Mounting is carried out on glue, which (depending on the manufacturer's instructions) is applied to the wall with an indent of at least 5 mm from the edge or on boards with the same indent. The plate is pressed against the adhesive layer and held until it sets. Further work is carried out only after the adhesive has completely cured (according to the manufacturer's instructions). In order to increase the contact strength for each square meter of insulation, 4 ... 6 plate-type dowels are used. The seams are additionally sealed with mounting foam.

Additionally, thermal insulation made of extruded polystyrene is supplied with a vapor-reflecting film or membrane, which is glued (or fixed in other ways, depending on the type) with the reflective side outward, towards the street. The joints of the film or membrane are glued with special adhesive tape.

After the installation of the insulating layer, a reinforcing mesh is glued or fastened with dowels, on top of which a layer of plaster is applied, ordinary (for further finishing) or decorative.

Penoplex is mounted in the same way.

Insulation of the balcony with foam plastic

The initial stage of work is carried out in the same way, but taking into account the greater softness and plasticity of the material, it is not necessary to plaster and putty the walls and ceiling, and you can be less careful about removing small protrusions. The sealing of cracks and cavities is mandatory - the constant supply of moisture or "cold bridges" from the outside greatly reduces the quality of thermal insulation.

Installation of polystyrene foam is carried out on glue or using dowels, it is permissible to combine both options. The procedure is the same as for extruded polystyrene. The number of dowels per square meter is 4 ... 6, the adhesive is applied to the wall. A reinforcing mesh is attached over the installed panels and plaster is performed.

How to insulate a balcony from the inside with penofol

For this material preliminary preparation walls is important only when directly glued to the base.

If, as experts recommend, arrange a ventilation gap of 15 ... 20 mm between load-bearing structures and a layer of insulator using a rack frame, complete alignment of the surfaces is not necessary. It is enough to provide a flat surface formed by outside frame (this is done using linings, leveling is done according to the level. An example of such alignment is described in the article “How to install beacons for plaster”).

Penofol is attached to the rack (wooden) frame with self-tapping screws, directly to the wall (ceiling) - using an adhesive layer (type C) or dish-shaped dowels. The second layer of penofol, used if necessary to ensure the "living" temperature of the balcony, is also applied over the rack frame. In this case, the seams on the upper and lower layers should not match. For a material foiled on both sides, the outer and inner sides are equivalent; for one-sided foiling, the side with the foil should be facing the inside of the room.

All seams are sealed with a special heat-insulating tape. Facing of any type on top of thermal insulation with foam foam is arranged along the frame. In connection with the obligatory nature of the crate, the optimal type of cladding is lining, panels or slab materials.

How to insulate the floor on the balcony

Insulation of the walls of the balcony and its ceiling is not very effective without high-quality thermal insulation of the floor. At the same time, the creation of a strong and durable floor covering requires a device or screed - but it greatly burdens the structure - or systems on logs.

How to properly insulate a balcony with a floor device on the logs

Logs - beams of a relatively large section, the upper planes of which are at the same level - create the necessary support for the final flooring and serve as "cells" for placing insulation. At the same time, since the logs are made of wood, "cold bridges" do not occur.

To place the lag, it is not necessary to first level the floor slab, but it is advisable to remove old coatings and materials from it. This will reduce the level finish coating and provide the necessary support strength.

The device of the base, the calculation of the lag step are performed in accordance with generally accepted rules. Plates or fragments of insulation rolls are placed between the bars. It can be mineral or basalt wool, foam plastic, other types of heat and sound insulating materials. A draft floor is laid on top of OSB boards or plywood, a fine floor covering is arranged.

With a low load on the floors, it is permissible to insulate the balcony with high-strength foam panels, but preference should still be given to structures with lags.

Floor insulation on the balcony under cable heating mats

The question is how to insulate a balcony in panel house, often combined with the need to arrange heating there. Removal of batteries central heating often irrational, so the best option (without a significant rise in the level of the finished floor) are electric "warm floors".

The type of thermal insulation material for cable or infrared heating systems is selected in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. However, the basic requirements for an insulator are as follows:

  • high resistance to mechanical, including static, loads;
  • good thermal insulation properties;
  • small thickness.

The best option is extruded polystyrene, for example, Styrodur self-adhesive panels.

The material is glued to the prepared concrete base with special glue. Reinforcing mesh and sections are laid on top heating system. The power of the heating sections is selected depending on the desired temperature and the estimated heat loss of the balcony. Usually it is 150 ... 180 watts per square meter. A smaller value corresponds to a “cold” one, a larger one to a “warm”, residential balcony.

A thin screed is arranged for the cable floor, infrared can be mounted directly under the laminate or tile.

Do-it-yourself loggia insulation - video

Conclusion

Whether to insulate the balcony, do it on your own or with the help of professionals, what time of the year to perform work and how seriously to take heat loss and temperature compliance - each apartment owner decides on his own. However, with any course of action, it is worth remembering: insulating a balcony with your own hands will cost (even when choosing high-quality and efficient materials) cheaper than professional finish. It is advisable to carry out all manipulations in warm season, since it is, of course, possible to insulate a balcony in winter, but this will create additional difficulties in work and lead to condensation when there is a sharp change in heat loss resistance.

September 4, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer technology, programming.

I have already talked many times about the internal insulation of balconies in city apartments and private houses, but I did not dwell much on highlighting the question of how best to insulate the loggia from the inside. But right choice thermal insulation material - the key to the effectiveness of ongoing activities.

And now is the time to fill this gap. The instructions below will tell you how to choose suitable material for warming.

Requirements for heaters

Before telling you how to insulate the loggia inside with my own hands, I want to give a few words to the criteria by which I personally choose thermal insulation materials for such work.

So, what is worth paying attention to:

  1. Heat transfer coefficient. The lower this parameter is, the better. That is, for the thermal insulation of the room (whether it be a separate loggia or combined with the main room), you will have to use a smaller layer of material. So, more usable area of ​​​​the room will be saved.
  2. Ease of installation. The more complicated the procedure for installing the heat-insulating material you have chosen, the longer and more laborious the repair process will be, especially on your own. However, I have already written a lot about how to properly insulate the loggia from the inside. If you need, you can find the relevant material or ask a question in the comments.
  3. Strength. It is better to choose a heater that tolerates external mechanical stress (both static and dynamic). In this case, the subsequent decorative finishing of the room is facilitated.
  4. Antiseptic. Internal insulation shifts the dew point inside the heat-insulating cake. In addition, air vapors, which are formed as a result of human activity, can penetrate through the walls. Therefore, I recommend paying attention to materials that are not subject to biocorrosion - mold, fungus and other microorganisms, rodents and insects do not appear in them.
  5. Affordable price. Naturally, this factor is also very important, although I would not put it at the forefront. Below I will tell you about insulating materials that have an optimal ratio of cost and performance. And then you yourself choose what material is better to perform insulation.

Characteristics of individual types of insulation

So, let's start the story. Let's start with the most common and very inexpensive heat insulator - polystyrene foam or, as it is popularly called, polystyrene.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of 98% air, which is enclosed in closed polystyrene shells. It turns out some kind of solid foam in sheets, which, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling of the loggia, prevents unproductive heat loss.

Specifications

I will briefly describe the main technical characteristics of the material:

  1. Thermal conductivity. The thermal conductivity coefficient of expanded polystyrene is in the range of 0.028-0.034 W / (m * K), that is, lower than that of mineral wool. The specific value depends on how dense the foam you get for work.

I'll warn you right now. Do not confuse foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Although they are relatives, their technical characteristics differ significantly. Therefore, we will talk about EPS separately in the next section.

  1. Vapor permeability and water absorption. Conventional building foam does not allow air to penetrate through the insulation layer.

Therefore, the insulation of the loggia with foam plastic from the inside requires additional measures to be taken to ventilate the room in order to remove excess moisture from it. Otherwise, the microclimate in the room will be far from comfortable.

The situation is different with water absorption. When in contact with liquid, the foam absorbs approximately 4% of its volume. However, unlike mineral wool, its heat-preserving properties do not deteriorate much from this, therefore it is not necessary to carefully waterproof the insulation layer.

  1. Strength. For insulation, building foams are used that meet the requirements of DIN 7726 and are classified as "rigid". That is, when a load is applied, the surface of the heat insulator reacts elastically. However, when a dynamic or strong static force is applied, the integrity of the insulation may be compromised.

In other words, if you use polystyrene foam for the internal insulation of the loggia, you immediately need to decide how to finish the inside after insulation. You need to choose this way decorative finishes, which would simultaneously protect the insulating layer from mechanical damage.

The strength of the foam is largely dependent on its density. But with an increase in density, heat-preserving properties deteriorate. The optimal density of foam for internal insulation is 25. You can also buy 35, but this, in my opinion, is already an unjustified waste of money.

  1. Chemical resistance. Classically, expanded polystyrene perfectly tolerates the effects of household chemicals, which include soap, soda, and mineral fertilizers. It is chemically neutral in contact with bituminous resins, cement and lime mortars, asphalts.

However, I myself saw how the foam “melts” when some varnishes, drying oils and other similar substances get on it. In addition, petroleum products with various alcohols are also dangerous.

All this once again suggests that if you are going to use this insulation for interior work, you should take care of its thorough protection.

  1. Sound absorption. If you want the insulation layer to act as a sound insulator at the same time, then you will be disappointed with the foam. He is able to protect a little from impact noise, and even then, if you lay 10-15 centimeters of insulation.

Other noises that are transmitted through the air, the foam does not jam. The fact is that the cells with air inside the material are rigidly fixed and completely isolated from the outside world. Therefore, sound waves do not absorb.

  1. Antiseptic and environmentally friendly. In 2004, research by scientists from the United States finally proved that biological life on the surface of expanded polystyrene is impossible. Therefore, there is no need to be afraid of the appearance of mold and fungus.

As for the issues of environmental protection (for some, this is very important), everything is fine here, too, since in the production of insulation they refused to use freon, which is harmful to the ozone layer of the planet. In addition, the foam itself serves for a long time without losing its performance properties. And regardless of the number of cycles of freezing and thawing.

However, the insulation in question is subject to oxidation. Moreover, the lower the density of the material, the faster this process. Especially if the material is exposed to direct sunlight. And during oxidation, it releases many harmful substances, which include:

  • benzene;
  • toluene;
  • formaldehydes;
  • methyl alcohol;
  • acetophenone and so on.

But during the construction of houses, wood is also treated with various chemicals, which also harm human health. So wood cannot be considered a completely environmentally friendly building material. However, I am only stating the facts, and you will have to make the final choice.

  1. Fire safety. According to the current Russian standards (GOST under the number 30224-94), foam plastics belong to the third and fourth flammability classes. In other words, they are very dangerous when viewed from this point of view.

When choosing a heater, pay attention to what standards the expanded polystyrene is certified. In Europe, the flammability class is determined by three factors (biological, chemical and complex). So, experts from the EU believe that the most combustible material is wood, but do not take into account the danger of combustion products formed during the ignition of the foam.

Therefore, when purchasing material, pay attention to certificates issued based on the results of comprehensive studies. And buy polystyrene foam, which contains flame retardants (it is marked with the letter "C"). This does not mean that such material will burn worse. It just takes a longer exposure to a more intense flame to ignite it.

In any case, I can say that despite various fire retardants and other additives to the foam, it continues to be a rather combustible material. Therefore, if you are going to arrange a workshop on the loggia, it is better to choose other materials for insulation. Moreover, flame retardants disappear over time.

  1. Lifetime. Subject to the foam installation technology (that is, laying it under plaster or other decorative material) it will retain its performance properties for at least 30 years. However, this is if you do not make mistakes, which I want to talk about below.

First of all, this is the wrong choice of a warming elk. Some, for example, believe that if you lay a foam board 30 cm thick, then the loggia will be insulated as efficiently as possible. This is not so, because a thick insulation will warp and crack due to temperature fluctuations.

As a rule, 5 cm thick slabs or two such slabs stacked on top of each other are used to insulate a dwelling. Among other things, this method of installation allows you to reduce the amount of smoke emitted during a fire and reduce the risk of poisoning people in the room.

Well, now I kind of summarize everything that has been said and give some advice to those who have already decided to buy polystyrene foam to insulate their loggia:

  1. For internal insulation, I advise you to purchase polystyrene foam with the PSB-S marking with a density of 35-40. In any case, do not take insulation with a density of less than 25. It is only suitable for packaging household appliances but not for construction.
  2. Sometimes manufacturers label the foam with the number "40", which does not indicate its density. Therefore, pay attention not only to the numbers in the name, but also to the technical characteristics, which, according to the law, must be placed on the package or provided separately at the request of the buyer.
  3. Buy foam produced by extrusion (should be listed in the accompanying documentation). This is the only way to give the material a density higher than 20 kg per cubic meter.
  4. To check the quality of the material on the spot, break off a piece from it. If you see balls at the break point, which are also easily separated, then you have packaging material in front of you. Styrofoam for insulation has cells in the form of polyhedrons, along which a fracture occurs.
  5. If we talk about specific manufacturers, then I recommend paying attention to the materials of TechnoNikol, BASF, Styrochem or Polimeri Europa. These materials are of excellent quality and are quite affordable.

Penoplex

I recently used extruded polystyrene foam to insulate a balcony. And chose the material to work domestic manufacturer- penoplex. That's why I'm going to talk about it in this section.

Specifications

The first extruded polystyrene foam was produced in the United States of America about half a century ago. The essence of the technological process is as follows: expanded polystyrene granules are placed in a chamber where they are melted under high temperature. Then this mass is foamed with the help of chemicals and squeezed out through rectangular nozzles onto the conveyor, where it cools.

For foaming, so-called foams are used, that is, substances that, when heated, emit gases: nitrogen or carbon dioxide.

After hardening, the extruded polystyrene tape is cut into slabs and packed in polyethylene for transportation to construction sites.

As for penoplex, it consists of the following components:

  • polystyrene;
  • ground perlite;
  • sodium bicarbonate;
  • lemon acid;
  • barium stearate;
  • tetrabromoparaxylene.

The use of foams in the production of foam gives the latter a porous structure, like foam. But unlike the latter, the cells of this material are tightly interconnected into a homogeneous structure, so the air is more evenly distributed inside the material.

The size of the air cells in the insulation is from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. They are isolated from each other, so they have good thermal resistance and low water absorption. In addition, this whole structure has greater strength than classic expanded polystyrene (styrofoam).

The exact technical characteristics of the penoplex are shown in the illustration below:

As you can see, there are several varieties of this extruded polystyrene foam on the building materials market, which differ in the characteristics and dimensions of the plates. Accordingly, they must be used for insulation of various structures.

If you are not too versed in the above figures, I will decipher some of the parameters:

  1. Coefficient of thermal conductivity. For penoplex, this figure is approximately 0.03 W / (m * K). This is one of the lowest coefficients of all existing heaters. At the same time, what attracts me personally: this indicator does not change depending on humidity and temperature. That is, when using penoplex, it is not necessary to protect it with additional waterproofing membranes.
  2. Hygroscopicity. When in contact with water or moist air, the foam board absorbs no more than 0.6% of its own volume. In this case, humidification continues only during the first 10 days after installation, and then stops. Only the upper layers of the insulation are impregnated, which positively affects the integrity of the material.
  3. Vapor permeability. The material does not pass moisture vapor dissolved in the air through itself. Therefore, the surfaces finished with foam are not covered with vapor barrier films. On the other hand, you will have to take measures to ventilate the room to remove excess water vapor.
  4. Compressive strength. This parameter is at a height, which is achieved due to the homogeneous structure of the penoplex. Therefore, it can be used to insulate floors on the loggia (laying the insulation under the cement screed). If a significant force is applied to the insulation, a dent with a depth of no more than 1 mm may form on the surface.
  5. Environmental friendliness. Although the manufacturer claims that the material is completely safe for the environment and humans, it still emits a small amount during operation. chemical compounds which may be hazardous to health.
  6. Lifetime. Experiments carried out at the Penoplex plant show that the material is able to withstand more than 50 consecutive freeze and thaw cycles. Therefore, when used outdoors, it will retain its technical characteristics for at least half a century. And inside the loggia and even more.

To all of the above, I can also add that penoplex tolerates the effects of aggressive chemicals and solvents well. However, it is destroyed upon contact with petroleum products, benzene, formaldehyde, acetone, oil and some other materials. This must be taken into account when choosing a method of decorative finishing.

Marking methods

There are several types of extruded polystyrene foam Penoplex on sale. To make it easier for you to choose the right variety, I will give the following table.

Marking Scope of application
Penoplex 31 Used for insulation of industrial tanks with various liquids and technical pipelines.
Penoplex 31C A material that, like the previous one, is not very durable, therefore it can only be used for internal insulation. Unlike the previous one, it has the ability to self-extinguish when ignited.
Penoplex 35 Material of medium strength and density, which is ideal for internal insulation of the loggia. Moreover, it can be installed not only on walls and ceilings, but also on the floor under a cement screed.
Penoplex 45 Very durable and moisture resistant insulation. Is used for external thermal insulation surfaces that experience a large static and dynamic load. On the loggia, it can be used to warm the floor.
Penoplex 45C Self-extinguishing type of insulation described in the previous row of the table. It is mainly used for thermal insulation of industrial and commercial facilities.

However, in addition to digital marking, penoplex has its own names. I will give a detailed description of each brand in the following table.

Name Density, kg/cu.m. Purpose
Wall 25-32 It is used for internal and external insulation of enclosing walls, internal partitions and ground floors above ground level.
Foundation 29-33 It is used for thermal insulation of structures buried in the ground. This type of foam is very durable and able to withstand the load exerted by the soil after backfilling the pit.
Roof 28-33 It is used for insulation of attic rooms. The insulation has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, but is fragile, so it is better not to use it in places where it will be subjected to a constant load.
Comfort 25-35 Material ideal for internal insulation of balconies, loggias and other premises. It differs in that it can be used in rooms with high humidity.

If you ask my opinion, then I would advise using Penoplex Comfort slabs 5 cm thick to insulate the loggia, laying them in one layer under the screed or in a pre-arranged crate.

Basalt wool

Another fairly common insulation for loggias and balconies is mineral wool. There are several varieties of this material, but I prefer the variety that is made from a volcanic mineral - basalt. Basalt wool is the most environmentally friendly material with excellent technical characteristics and performance properties.

This insulation was invented in Hawaii, when local residents, after one of the volcanic eruptions, discovered strong and thin fibers in the vicinity.

Now basalt wool is produced industrially. To do this, gabbro-basalt is collected and melted in a melting furnace at a temperature of just over 1500 degrees Celsius. Then the mixture enters the drum, where it is blown by a jet of air and rotates. The result is fibers with a thickness of 7 microns and a length of about 5 cm.

After that, a binder is added to the mass of fibers, after which the mixture is heated to 300 degrees Celsius and pressed into mats, which are used for insulation.

Specifications

I will tell you the most important thing about this heater:

  1. Thermal conductivity. According to this indicator, wool, although it does not overtake penoplex, is not an outsider. The thermal conductivity coefficient is from 0.032 to 0.048 W/(K*m).

So that you understand what in question, compare, for example, a 10-cm layer of basalt wool with a density of 100 kg per cubic meter with others building materials. To ensure the same level of thermal insulation, it is necessary to build a wall of ceramic bricks with a thickness of 1 m 20 cm. Silicate brick will need even more - 2 meters. As for the wooden wall, its thickness should be at least 25 cm.

  1. Water absorption. Basalt wool has hydrophobic properties. That is, water does not penetrate inside the fibers and does not linger in the insulation, changing its technical characteristics.

This, by the way, is the fundamental difference between basalt fiber and glass wool or slag wool. The last two varieties after getting wet (from contact with water or moisture vapor) increase their thermal conductivity, that is, they retain heat indoors worse.

So if you are going to insulate the loggia from the inside, you need to take exactly basalt wool, and not from glass fibers. Do not confuse. Its water absorption is no more than 2% of its own volume.

  1. Vapor permeability. The described insulation, unlike the previous ones, does not prevent air infiltration through the building envelope. Moisture, penetrating through the decorative material, is removed outside and does not condense in the insulation layer.

The vapor permeability of the material is about 0.3 mg / (m * h * Pa). That is, on the loggia where you use such a heater, a comfortable microclimate for living will independently form, if you look at it from the point of view of air humidity.

  1. Fire safety. Due to the fact that basalt, being a volcanic rock, has a very high temperature melting, the heat-insulating material itself belongs to the class of completely non-combustible materials.

Moreover, it is able to stop the further spread of the flame. The thermal insulation layer loses its integrity at a temperature of at least 1100 degrees Celsius. Therefore, by the way, it is used for insulation of engineering systems and pipelines, the surface of which is very hot during operation.

The material fully complies with the requirements of GOST under the number 30244 and SNiP under the number 21-01-97. It has no restrictions when warming residential premises.

  1. Soundproof properties. Unlike expanded polystyrenes, basalt wool perfectly absorbs sound waves. This is due to the fact that the air contained inside the insulation is not closed inside the cells, and the fibers themselves are arranged randomly.

Moreover, cotton wool not only cuts off noise from the street, but also reduces the reverberation time. That is, not only the loggia itself is soundproofed, but also the rooms located behind it.

  1. Strength. As in all other cases, this parameter depends on the density of the basalt wool. Although it is smaller than that of polystyrenes, it is still sufficient for construction work, since some basalt fibers are arranged vertically when forming mats.

As a result, when the insulation layer is deformed by 10%, it shows a compressive strength of 5 to 80 kilopascals. And this indicator does not decrease depending on the operating time.

Nevertheless, it is impossible to install basalt mats under the floor screed. For insulation, I recommend equipping the crate, on which decorative material is then mounted. Although there are some varieties (for example, Dan Floor from Danova), which are specifically designed for insulating floors under a cement screed.

  1. Biological and chemical activity. The material does not react with chemicals and does not cause corrosion of metal parts. In addition, mold and fungus do not start inside the insulation layer and on its surface, insects and rodents do not live.

So you can insulate the loggia in the country. Unlike foam, which mice love to chew on.

  1. Environmental Safety. The insulation is completely safe for the environment and humans, as it is made from a natural mineral. However, the fibers are glued together with phenol, which can be hazardous to health.

But I hasten to assure the skeptics. All hazardous substances are neutralized when heated at the stage of production of basalt wool. But even at the stage of manufacturing the material, the emission is no more than 0.05 mg per cubic meter per hour.

In addition, during operation, mineral fibers do not irritate the skin, mucous membranes and respiratory organs of a person.

Material disadvantages

So that you do not get the impression that basalt wool is just a gift of fate for warming the loggia, I will list the main disadvantages of the material:

  • high cost of insulation;
  • the presence of seams in the insulation layer, which make it leaky;
  • the possibility of the formation of basalt dust, which causes inconvenience to installers in the process of working with it;
  • high coefficient of vapor permeability, which in some cases is simply not needed.

Summary

Now you have all the necessary information to choose the right insulation for the thermal insulation of the loggia. Those who are interested in how to lay the selected insulation with their own hands can watch the video in this article.

Has the day come when it's time to finally throw away the old ski and take all the cans from your balcony to the garage? Your head is full of ideas, and if not, then the global web will help you. You are ready to realize all the brightest and crazy desires on the vacated piece of living space. There is one small problem left. These are harsh conditions that attack your hard-earned square meters.

Therefore, the primary task that must be solved before letting the fantasy unfold is to keep warm. In order to minimize the cost of repairs, let's figure it out how to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands.

If a decision is made to attach the area of ​​​​the balcony to the living area of ​​​​the apartment, it is necessary to carry out work on its insulation. So that after the repair there are no unforeseen problems, the work must be carried out in compliance with the established norms, rules and approvals.

Serious reconstruction will require permission from local executive authorities, architecture and the Ministry of Emergency Situations. Ignore this paragraph is not worth it, so as not to be punished for violating the housing code. In addition, reconciliation will help to avoid certain errors when changing structural elements. Experienced specialists will immediately notice inconsistencies in the project. Correcting errors at the design stage will avoid the cost of correcting errors after repair.

The order of work and their volume depend on what tasks the reconstructed balcony will perform:

  • Will continue to be a place to stay in warm time year, and insulation is carried out to protect against wind, dust and precipitation. This is a less expensive method and easier to implement.
  • It will be attached to the area of ​​the apartment as a full-fledged living space used all year round. Here, the scope of work increases significantly, since it will be necessary to provide for heating, steam and waterproofing, and change the power supply system.

Attention! Balcony with sliding windows it is almost pointless to insulate, since the windows themselves will let the cold through.

How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands

First of all, it is necessary to take measurements and determine the quantity of materials, their composition and quality. Manufacturers offer a wide range of materials for insulation, insulation and finishing for every taste and material wealth. Of course, you shouldn't skimp on quality. It is necessary to take care of the environmental friendliness and fire safety of housing.

A balcony is a remote structure located outside the building, its three sides and the ceiling require insulation, even if the neighbors have already completed the work. The sequence of work should be built in such a way as not to miss important nuances, which then have to be corrected:

  • Particular attention should be paid to the condition enclosing parapet. Most often, it is a thin plate of metal, profile, or iron rods. This design will have to be replaced with a brick wall or foam blocks. For the construction of the wall, you need to choose light, hollow bricks so as not to create an unnecessary load on the carrier plate.

Balcony railing

  • Glazing it is better to entrust professionals. Depending on the chosen interior, the profile can be wooden or PVC with double glazing. The number of flaps is determined in advance to ensure ventilation and ease of maintenance. When installing windows, expansion profiles are installed that will facilitate the fastening of insulation boards.

glazed balcony

  • Sealing cracks, joints, holes, chips and cracks mounting foam, polyurethane sealants or mastic. They protect against the penetration of moisture, dust, the negative effects of the environment.

Sealing gaps on the balcony

  • let down energy supply so that access to food is as practical as possible. Electrical work and heat supply should be carried out by specialists with special permits for such work.

Conducting electricity on the balcony

  • Warming carried out in the following sequence: walls, and ceiling.

How to insulate the walls on the balcony

To choose the right insulation, you need to know its technical characteristics, pros and cons.

The main parameters that determine the quality of the material is its thermal conductivity, ecological and Fire safety. It is very important that the insulation is light and takes up less space.

  • . Multi-layer, consisting of foil and polyethylene foam, a reflective material a few millimeters thick. At the same time, it reflects at least 90% of heat, durable, lightweight, inexpensive. During installation, it easily takes the shape of the surface and is attached.

Insulation of the balcony with penofol

  • polyurethane foam. Provides fire and environmental safety. It is applied to the surface by pouring or spraying, closes all the cracks, provides waterproofing, does not require a frame and fastening.

Balcony insulation with polyurethane foam

  • Penoplex. These are expanded polystyrene boards. The material practically does not absorb moisture, but is voluminous and poorly accepts the parameters of the surface to which it is attached.

Insulation of the balcony with foam

  • Styrofoam. It has excellent sound, steam and heat insulation properties. Due to its cost-effectiveness and environmental friendliness, it is well suited for warming a balcony.

Balcony insulation with polystyrene foam

  • Styrodur. A kind of polystyrene foam, extruded, green color, with good performance.

Balcony insulation with styrodur

  • Izover (mineral wool). Widespread insulation made on the basis of fiberglass. This is mineral wool, which will retain heat, provide sound insulation, and will not weigh down the structure. Has an affordable price. Used with additional hydro and vapor barrier.

Balcony insulation with isover (mineral wool)

It is not advisable to use fiberglass, as it is flammable and releases toxic substances.

Taking into account the temperature difference between the outdoor air and the room, it is necessary to provide a kind of hydro-barrier that will not allow warm air create condensation on contact with a cold guard. The presence of condensate will lead, in the future, to the formation and decay.

The insulation is attached, depending on the type, with glue, special dowels with a wide cap, spacer nails or spraying.

Using mineral wool the surface is pre-primed. After drying, mineral plates are applied to the wall, smeared with adhesive composition. Installation starts from the bottom and is made according to the type of brickwork. Allow the glue to dry completely within a day. It is possible to carry out strengthening in several places with the help of dowels.

Often, a wooden frame is used to lay the slabs, the design of which retains heat worse than insulation. Therefore, it is better to fasten the material end-to-end and seal them with aluminum tape or mounting foam.

It is better to fasten layers of mineral wool end-to-end

The next layer is a vapor barrier. It could be foil polyethylene. It is laid with foil inside the building so that it reflects the heat coming from the house. Insulating materials for other heaters may not be used, depending on the purpose of the room.

How to insulate the floor on the balcony

About a quarter of the heat loss on the balcony occurs through the floor, so work needs to be done to prevent these losses. This is not the most difficult operation and it is quite possible to do it yourself. When choosing a material, it should be taken into account that the level of the floor on the balcony after installation must be at or below the level of the floor in the adjoining room.

There are several simple and affordable ways:

  • with a frame device;
  • monolithic;
  • electric underfloor heating.

Professional skills may require only one - the installation of a warm floor.

Underfloor heating on the balcony

The main point in the choice of method and material is the condition of the carrier plate. In houses old building structures may be worn out and not always ready to withstand a large load. Therefore, it is important to coordinate with the specialists of the department of architecture, what weight of materials can be used in the repair. This is especially important when installing monolithic concrete floors.

The frame floor, in turn, can be arranged using:

  • mineral wool;
  • expanded clay;
  • pepoplast;
  • foam or expanded polystyrene.

Floor insulation technology consists of several stages.

  1. Leveling the surface of the plate is carried out if necessary.
  2. Waterproofing with polyethylene film or roofing material (for damp rooms).
  3. The device of a wooden crate. A bar with a height close to the thickness of the insulation is used. It is laid along the length of the balcony at a distance of 50 cm from each other or another convenient distance, depending on the size of the insulation sheets. Leave indents from the walls of 5-7 cm, and the ends - 5 cm, so that the wood does not deform at high humidity. They are fixed to the floor with anchors or self-tapping screws with a depth of at least 4 mm. This will provide a stable hold. If it is necessary to install transverse beams, it is necessary to make cuts at the joints up to half the thickness and make recesses with the help of which the transverse logs are connected to the longitudinal ones. Control the level, do not allow the bars to sag. If necessary, wooden wedges or dies are placed, which are fixed to the floor with mounting foam. It is important to prevent foam from entering the junction of the wedge and the beam.
  4. Filling the crate is made with the selected insulation.

Cheap and efficient material mineral wool. Available in rolls and slabs, light in weight, easy to install. The size of the canvas is chosen in such a way as not to crumple it and not to bend it. This degrades the protective qualities due to the reduction in the amount of air between the fibers. The main disadvantage of mineral wool is its low moisture resistance, so it is necessary to use a vapor barrier as the next layer.

Popular, inexpensive Styrofoam due to the ease and ease of installation, it is most often used as a heater. It is very hygroscopic and resistant to any environment. Among the disadvantages are deformation under loads and poor sound insulation.

Balcony floor insulation with polystyrene foam

Penoplex it is resistant to mold development, mechanical stress, temperature changes and excellent thermal insulation performance. As disadvantages, you can cancel its combustibility with the release of harmful substances and the thickness of the material.

Insulation of the floor and walls of the balcony with foam

High fire resistance, durability expanded clay. But it is not very good for warming a balcony, since a thick layer is required for normal thermal insulation.

Insulation of the balcony floor with expanded clay

  • The gaps remaining after filling with a heater are foamed.
  • On top of the insulation or vapor barrier (if applicable), as a rough flooring, after which the selected floor material will follow, chipboard or moisture-resistant plywood is attached.

Cement screed is used only when quite solid construction balcony. In order not to exceed the permissible load, a reinforced screed up to 50 mm thick is used.

The following methods will require special professional skills.

Implemented as insulation electrical heating systems using a special infrared film, cable, tapes. They are laid on a thin layer of insulation and mounted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

For water floors requires a device in a special way of the water circuit.

Scheme of the device of the water floor

How to insulate the ceiling on the balcony

Before starting work, you should carefully inspect the ceiling for signs of leakage, since even a small amount of moisture falling on top of the insulation can lead to the development of mold.

Given the difficulty of working on the ceiling, it is necessary to protect the eyes and use goggles.

As a material for work, already familiar foam plastic, mineral wool, polystyrene, (foil polyethylene foam) are used.

Penoplex with a density of 35-45kg / cm² allows the use of panels from 20mm, which will provide normal thermal protection. The only drawback is the high cost.

Insulation of the ceiling of the balcony with foam

Thickness polystyrene can be within 50mm, and the density is 15kg / cm², then MDF, PVC or drywall panels are mounted on top. At a density of 25 kg / cm², putty can be applied.

Insulation of the ceiling of the balcony with foam

For ease of installation, marking is carried out taking into account that the plates or sheets of insulation fit well into the prepared crate, determine the level of fastening. It is better to calculate everything in advance at the bottom, then the work at the top will take less time. The thickness of the layers of insulation and finishing should be such as not to interfere with the opening of windows.

Use a different sequence of work:

  • Lathing device → installation of insulation → lining.
  • Insulation fastening over the entire area → vapor barrier → installation of a wooden crate or frame made of a metal profile → cladding.

If the balcony is located Upstairs buildings, it is important to prevent moisture from the roof from entering the insulation; for this, an additional layer of insulation with polyethylene or foil polyethylene foam is provided under the roof.

The first layer for waterproofing can be special composition based on bituminous mastic, applied on concrete slab brush. The next step is to install a sheet waterproofing.

How to insulate a balcony with foam

Penoplex is a cluster of expanded polystyrene balls with air gaps. Practically does not absorb moisture, has a long service life, low thermal conductivity. Plates are produced with a thickness of 2-10 cm.

Foam boards

The lightness of the material does not create an additional load on the carrier plate. It is resistant to deformation, does not emit harmful substances. To increase fire safety, a variety marked C is chosen. Since the walls of the balcony are thin, thick insulation boards are used, which will reduce the useful area of ​​​​the room.

Under the influence of sunlight, penoplex loses its properties, therefore it is used only as an internal insulation.

The material is easily cut, does not crumble, does not create problems during installation. Used to insulate walls, floors and ceilings. The following fastening types are used:

  • Dish-type dowels with plastic cores. This mount is suitable for uneven surfaces, roofs made of metal profiles.
  • With a special adhesive applied to a pre-primed surface, it is enough to apply the adhesive in dots or in a zigzag. Adheres well to smooth concrete substrates.
  • Glue, with additional fixation, dowels.

Methods for applying glue to foam

Penoplex plates are laid in prepared crate cages or without it, on the entire surface. The use of lathing, especially on the front part, worsens thermal protection.

The fitting of the plates is carried out tightly, the joints are sealed with construction tape or filled with mounting foam. The insulation is covered with a layer of polyethylene with a foil layer. Depending on the purpose of the room, vapor barrier may or may not be used.

Foam insulation is suitable for all types of interior decoration: special plaster, plasterboard, wood and finishing boards.

How to insulate a balcony with foam

One of the most common ways to insulate a balcony (walls, floor, ceiling) is foam. This material at a relatively low cost is able, with proper installation, to provide excellent thermal insulation performance. From others positive qualities, it is worth noting the resistance to adverse weather conditions. It does not absorb moisture, does not collapse under its influence, is resistant to the formation of rot and mold.

Polyfoam does not emit harmful substances, goes well with other materials.

To insulate the balcony, foam plastic is used both outside and inside. Outdoor work for a multi-storey building is best entrusted to specialized organizations for the purpose of safety.

For internal insulation, a foam plastic thickness of 4-6 cm is sufficient. If the front part is thinner than the side panels, a thickness of up to 10 cm can be applied. When choosing a thickness for floor insulation, it is necessary to leave a margin of height for the installation of the floor itself, and for the ceiling - for opening windows.

Warming is carried out in two ways:

  • Adhesive. On flat surfaces that do not require waterproofing, foam boards can be glued with special glue (Ceresit ST-85). This method is good for arranging the floor for a subsequent screed or walls for plaster. In this case, when the foam sticks, the glue is applied to its outer surface with a thickness of 2-3 mm. Without waiting for complete drying, they apply a reinforcing mesh, but do not flood it and cover it with another layer of glue.

Adhesive foam insulation

  • frame. Since the use of other finishing materials requires additional fastening, suit wooden crate or metal frame. This method is convenient for creating a layered cake that provides outside waterproofing, and from the inside - vapor barrier. Layers can fill the cells of the frame or be located under the bars and on top. The foam itself is cut to the size of the cells so as to fill them as tightly as possible. It is fastened with dowels or self-tapping screws with wide mushroom caps.

Frame method of foam insulation

cracks , emptiness , irregularities are filled with scraps, mounting foam or sealant. After drying, you can attach a layer of vapor barrier over the insulation and the cake is ready for finishing with drywall, plastic panels or other finishing.

How to insulate a plastic balcony

Plastic balconies or decorated with plastic panels, resistant to impact external environment, sunlight, temperature difference. Guaranteed service life of high-quality panels is at least 50 years. They are easy to install, have an affordable price, are easy to maintain and look aesthetically pleasing. Due to the positive characteristics, plastic balconies have gained popularity.

Plastic panels improve the aesthetic appearance, provide sufficient thermal protection to balconies with improved glazing.

Balcony with plastic panels

Sheathing the balcony with plastic is carried out on a mounted wooden frame or metal profile, which reacts poorly to temperature changes and changes in humidity. The frame device creates free space between the walls and finishing panels. It is foolish not to take advantage of this moment and add one of the common heaters to this space. If, at the same time, the seams and joints of the balcony structure are sealed, then even one layer polystyrene, penoplex or mineral wool, filling the cells of the crate, will significantly change the microclimate. And the use of an additional layer of vapor barrier will make it possible to use a plastic balcony for all year round as a complete living space.

How to insulate a wooden balcony

Lovers of wood in the interior, support the style on the balcony. The main advantages of wooden structures are their environmental friendliness, favorable microclimate created by breathable material. The texture of wood, supported by modern finishing materials, creates a cozy atmosphere and an attractive look. However, without additional insulation, a wooden balcony can only be fully used in the warm season. In addition, under the influence of the external environment, the tree quickly ages, absorbs moisture, cracks, and rots. Requires fixed costs to maintain open wooden balconies in an attractive way.

wooden balcony

Insulation with installation will help improve consumer qualities glazing and a set of works on waterproofing.

The interior is well supported by frames made of wood of the appropriate species with double glazing, which will allow the balcony to be used as a living space. After their installation, work is carried out to seal cracks, cracks and junctions using mounting foam. The insulation technology is similar to works for structures made of other materials, however, wood requires mandatory hydro and vapor barrier.

Work order:

  • Wooden structures of the balcony are treated with means to protect against decay, insects and increase fire resistance. This also applies to the bars for the crate.
  • The concrete base is primed.
  • Waterproofing is laid on the prepared surfaces. For the floor, roofing material or mastic is used, for walls and ceilings - polyethylene or foil.
  • A wooden frame is prepared from bars, which provide the possibility of laying a heater of a selected thickness.
  • Insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene or foam plastic) is tightly laid in the cells of the crate. The remaining voids are filled with foam.
  • On top of the insulation, a layer of vapor barrier made of foil polyethylene foam, penofol is attached.
  • Finishing wood paneling, clapboard. It must be ensured that the weight of the finishing material does not overload the carrier plate of the balcony. Part of the wooden materials can be replaced with lighter ones, without sacrificing functionality and attractiveness.

To make the insulation of the balcony with your own hands a pleasure and provide an excellent result, think over the goals and tasks in advance, carry out the necessary approvals and measurements. Choose materials according to technical characteristics and your material possibilities. Carry out work in the complex, not missing the little things. And success is guaranteed.

You can also watch a few videos that will help you insulate the balcony with your own hands.

Video

Insulation of balconies and loggias with mineral wool

The technology of insulation of the balcony with foam

Warming and joining a balcony

How to insulate a balcony? The choice of insulation

How to insulate a balcony? Step-by-step instruction

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: what and how to insulate + video


The balcony is a part of the building that needs insulation more than others, because not all residents use it only as a warehouse. Increasingly, people are beginning to equip their balconies for additional space, for example, a personal office. For these and not only reasons, it is necessary to produce competent insulation of the structure from the inside.

In this article, we will consider three methods using different materials.

Stages of balcony insulation

Insulation of the balcony from the inside is performed in the following sequence:


No. 1. Balcony insulation with polystyrene foam: sequence of work

If you chose expanded polystyrene as a heater, then the sequence of work is as follows:


No. 2. Insulation of the balcony with penoplex (video)

Penoplex is actively used in the insulation of rooms. You can attach it to the surface with bituminous mastics, polyurethane foam or dowel-mushrooms. Consider the option of mounting on mounting foam.

Foam mounting

So. Waterproofing done. applied to the insulation board polyurethane foam along the perimeter. It's enough. After applying, wait a couple of seconds and fix the plate on the insulated surface. The next plate is laid end-to-end to the first. After two days, you can fix the plates with additional dowels. Then the whole process is repeated in the same order as described above. finishing do at your own discretion. You can sew up the insulation boards with plastic panels, they look very original.

Additionally, we fix the plates with dowels

Advice. If the balcony is intended only for storing essential items on it, then it is enough to insulate the walls in one layer. If you need to insulate more thoroughly, then it is better to lay the insulation in two layers.

The process of warming the balcony is completed. As you can see, it does not represent anything complicated. If you are just planning to do this work, then our article will help you. If you have already done, then share your methods with readers in the comments.

Number 3. Balcony insulation with mineral wool: technology features

Warming of balconies with mineral wool is carried out under the constructed crate. A lining is attached over the frame - wooden or plastic panels with special grooves.

A well-known fact is the building recommendation to carry out insulation with outer side building. However, in the insulation of balconies and loggias, it is often not possible to place the insulation material outside. The internal placement of the insulation layer requires certain calculations, compliance with the technology and correct selection materials so that in the future the work performed does not lead to wetting of the walls, corners and ceiling inside the remote structure.

Balcony insulation with mineral wool

What materials can be used to insulate a balcony and? What finish will allow you to reliably protect the insulation from the interior space and create an aesthetic appearance of the interior walls?

In modern technologies for insulating open hinged structures (balconies), four types of material are used as internal insulation: polystyrene foam, foam plastic, penofol and mineral wool. Consider the technological features of installation and types of cotton wool insulation used for thermal insulation of balconies.

Types of mineral wool

Depending on the raw materials used in the production, there are three main types of mineral wool: glass, stone and slag. All three materials are suitable for insulation work.

Mineral wool is a soft material that does not have rigid dimensions. It is supplied in the form of rolls (before laying they are unwound into a track) or soft mats. Sometimes one side of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil to enhance the thermal insulation properties.

Photo: mineral wool with aluminum foil

Important! During installation, the foil should be located on the side of the room. The internal heat of the room will be reflected from the foil surface back into the living space.

The thickness of the mineral wool layer determines the quality of insulation and varies in size from 20 to 200 mm.

Mineral wool installation technology

Any type of mineral wool is mounted under the frame, located between the outer wall (ceiling, roof) and the frame supports. Wooden sticks or metal profiles can be used as supports, depending on which cladding will be used in the future.

Lathing from metal profiles

When using lining for finishing wall cladding, the frame-lathing is constructed of wood. Wooden sticks with a cross section of 150 - 250 cm 2 are installed, while you can save a little the interior space of the balcony by installing sticks of a rectangular rather than square section (30 × 50 cm 2, 30 × 70 cm 2).

Wooden crate

All racks and horizontal laths of the crate are installed under the level. Fastening of vertical racks to concrete surface ceiling and floor is carried out anchor bolts. Horizontal ones are attached to the vertical supports. If the future cladding is made of plastic lining, horizontal slats are attached at three levels: knee, thigh, shoulder.

Insulation laying

Note: before installing the insulation, the walls are treated with an antifungal primer.

For internal insulation with mineral wool, it is mandatory to install a vapor barrier. By itself, the cotton material is breathable, it easily passes gaseous substances (air, steam).

Insulation must be protected from getting wet

Given that during internal insulation, the point of condensation is shifted into the insulation, it is necessary to limit the ingress of steam or air from their living quarters into the building wool. For this purpose, a vapor barrier film is laid between the mineral wool and the finish.

Interior decoration

Purpose of interior decoration:

  • Close the heat insulator material from the living space.
  • Create an aesthetic interior wall covering of a room or insulated loggia.

There are various materials for interior decoration of balconies (drywall, wood, plastic, plaster). With a previously constructed crate frame, the finishing is done by hanging various kinds panels: plywood, MDF, lining made of wood or plastic.

Clapboard made of plastic under a tree

Finishing with clapboard is done by lining the walls with wooden (or plastic) carload panels, which have special grooves around the perimeter for ease of installation and fastening density. At the same time, plastic lining is often a cheaper imitator of a wooden coating laid on the inner walls of a balcony (or loggia). It is characterized by less strength and rigidity.

Plastic panels are easy to install

Wooden wagon panels are reliable, environmentally friendly, have sufficient rigidity for flooring. Plastic clapboard can sheathe the ceiling of the loggia, the floor is covered with wood, as for the walls - both types of wagon cover (plastic and wood) can be used here.

Finishing with wooden clapboard

After finishing, the inner surface is treated with a composition that protects the wood from moisture and from destruction.