What is the best way to fix the euro lining. Eurolining installation: step by step instructions

Room cladding has always been an important step, which has invariably been present in all successful projects. In our time, nothing has changed, but the choice of material for cladding has become much more complicated, since a large number of new and untested ones have appeared. - one of the proven methods that has been working for more than a dozen years. It is about him that we will talk today.

We will consider what we need for the work and what we cannot do without, and also discuss how to fix the lining to the ceiling and what preparatory work is necessary for this. By following these tips, you can do all the work yourself without making common mistakes.

Required materials and tools

First you need to figure out what the wooden ceilings, which are sheathed with clapboard, are made of. This is a frame made of timber or a metal profile, fixed to the base of the ceiling and sheathed with a clapboard. Therefore, the process of fixing the lining is directly related to the choice of the frame material and is closely interrelated with it.

To install a wooden frame, we need the following items:

brackets or hangers, with the help of which fastening to the ceiling will be carried out;
bars for assembling the frame, most often 40X40 mm;
wedges that will be needed to set the frame in the correct position on the plane;
anchor with plastic dowels for fixing hangers on the ceiling base;
self-tapping screws with which the bars and brackets will be connected.

When choosing raw materials, special attention should be paid to the uneven bars. They should be:

dry;
even;
whole.

These three factors are simply necessary for further work, since it is very difficult and unsafe to attach the lining to the ceiling with an uneven surface.

So, we need:

profile suspensions;
connecting elements;
anchors and self-tapping screws for metal;
and in fact, the profile itself.

It is best to choose a metal profile with rolled edges. This is what will provide him with additional rigidity, which is very useful, especially if you decide to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard made of wood.

After you have chosen the material for the frame, it is time to decide on the type of lining.

Lining can be made from a variety of materials:

made of metal;
from MDF;
made of PVC;
from a board made of solid wood;
from polyvinyl chloride.

Each of the materials mentioned is generally quite suitable for cladding in a residential building. But at the same time, not every one of them may be suitable for a particular room. For example, a lining made of MDF in the bathroom will not serve you even for several months, while it will retain its properties for many years. Therefore, it is imperative to take into account the features of the room and select the lining accordingly.

If possible, then choose a natural lining made of wood. No other material can replace the naturally pleasant smell of fresh wood. In addition, the tree has good properties and is quite durable, so you should not neglect this type of lining.

Speaking about the choice of lining in a living room (for example, in a nursery, bedroom or hallway), it is worth noting that pine materials can emit a lot of resin, while deciduous trees (oak, alder, ash) will not interfere with tenants. On the other hand, in the walk-through rooms or in the corridor, you can use such a budget option for pine lining.

Another factor that strongly influences the choice of lining is its class. It is assigned based on the type of raw materials, their quality and appearance. Typically, the final product is divided into 4 classes: from the worst quality and appearance to almost perfect. But do not forget that the price changes in the opposite direction: you will have to spend almost most of your money on the best materials.

We advise you not to go to extremes and choose middle class lining. Those flaws that you find on the surface will not be so difficult to remove, and at the same time, you can save a considerable amount of money for subsequent work. It is not worth buying the cheapest class, since it will take a lot of time, effort and money to correct the errors of this material.

It is worth mentioning a separate type of lining - eurolining. Its main differences are in higher quality production and the possibility of deep and reliable connection with each other. This connection is arranged according to the principle of "thorn-groove" and allows the boards to move relative to each other, which simplifies the installation process (in more detail: "").

After you have decided on the type of frame, lining and purchased the necessary materials, you need to check the availability of tools, without which it is impossible to do any work.

Although most of them are already owned by any owner, you still have to go to the store for some:

puncher;
laser level;
water level;
roulette;
a screwdriver (or a screwdriver, if you don't mind spending a couple of extra minutes screwing in the nail);
scissors for metal;
saw-hacksaw for cutting wood;
hammer.

Having all this, you can start work. Let's start by preparing the ceiling.

Installation of lining on the ceiling, in detail on the video:

Preparing the ceiling for clapboard cladding

Fastening the lining to the ceiling requires the preparation of a flat and solid foundation, so it is necessary to devote enough time to the base ceiling. The process of its preparation can be divided into two stages, each of which we will consider in more detail in the future and see photos that will help to understand their essence.

Cleaning and insulation of the ceiling.
Installation of the frame.

Ceiling cleaning will involve removing old finishes, cleaning up dirty areas, and repairing cracks, dips and bumps. After that, the entire surface is treated with an antifungal compound that kills harmful organisms and protects the future sheathing from harmful effects from the inside.

You can insulate the ceiling in a variety of ways that are suitable for your apartment. For example, you can glue the foil material for thermal insulation izolon or penofol, or even leave an empty space for ventilation. You can feel free in this matter!

Now is the time to talk about the installation of frames. Why are we doing this? First of all, so that the lining hides the visual imperfections of the ceiling. If you do not make a frame, then all errors will be clearly emphasized, and the house will only look worse. The installation process differs depending on the type of material selected. We'll cover both cases. Let's start with the metallic look of the lining.

First, you need to determine the height of the future ceiling. To do this, you must carefully measure the height of the base ceiling and find its lowest point. Having retreated from it by 5-10 cm, we get the height at which the starting profile should be located.
Along the entire perimeter of the walls at a given height, we install a metal profile, fastening it with dowels with a plastic sleeve.
We attach suspensions to the ceiling and bend the plates down on both sides.
To the last two elements - to the profile and hangers - we fasten the profiles of the crate, which are planned as the main ones (read: "").
After completing the construction of the frame, do not secure it tightly until you have verified the correct positioning of its elements using a level.

This completes the installation of a metal frame, let's move on to the process of installing a wooden one:

If the ceiling level is not planned to be lowered, then the frame beams can be attached directly to the ceiling. This creates some difficulties regarding the unevenness of the resulting frame, but they can be solved with the wedges that you bought in advance.
We attach the brackets to the ceiling, to them - the bars for sewing on the lining, and later we will attach the lining itself to these bars.

It is convenient to attach the beams to the ceiling with a construction gun. This will significantly speed up the installation of the entire frame and take less effort from you.

How to fix the lining to the ceiling

Now we come to the culmination of our work - this is fixing the lining to the ceiling. As always, the installation process differs depending on the type of lining used, but the general procedure remains the same. Let's first look at the differences in how the lining is attached to the ceiling, and then discuss the general points.

Lightweight lining is usually attached to the crate with clamps. The cleat is a bracket that is inserted together with the lining board into the groove and which itself, regardless of the board, is attached to the lathing. A significant advantage of this method is that it does not damage the lining when using it, as is the case when using screws, nails and similar materials.

Align the position with a level and fix the panel.

We insert the spike of the other panel into the groove of the first one, leveling the connection with a level, and continue in this way to sheathe the entire ceiling (in more detail: "").

The last panel, if necessary, can be sawn and fixed using the open method.

We mount the skirting boards around the perimeter and enjoy the results.

Different materials can be used for surface finishing. They are selected based on their characteristics, properties and, of course, cost.

One of the most common options for cladding surfaces is clapboard. However, to use it, you need to understand how to fix the lining to the wall.

In this article, we will take a closer look at the installation methods, the advantages and disadvantages of each option.

Methods for fixing the lining

Try to lay the bars evenly

Installation of the lining on the walls is best done using a lathing - a frame made of wood. To do this, all the bars of the lathing, both in the horizontal and in the vertical plane, must be aligned exactly.

Even minor mistakes can, over time, lead to depressions and bulges that will be visible on the walls.

After the installation of the lathing is completed, the lining is attached. Below you can see the scheme of the lathing for surface finishing.

Keep in mind that if the lining is used for facing surfaces in the bath, the material must be pre-treated with antiseptics.

The installation of the lining will not depend on the fastening method. For walls and ceilings, the work will be the same. There are two ways to place boards:

Vertical. With this method of placement, work begins from one of the nodes. The first board is fastened with the groove outward. The next bar is inserted into the previous one. Upon completion of fixing the board with the help of a level, the evenness of its placement is checked.
Horizontal. With this placement, the spike of the board is directed upward, allowing water to slide down the finish. Such an installation begins from the ceiling.

Do not fasten the lining close to the ceiling and floor, leave gaps

After all the boards are installed, a small section of the board is inserted into the groove of the finish panel, which is nailed down with a hammer. This trick will allow you to tightly connect all the planks and prevent gaps or holes from appearing.

When installing the lining near the floor and ceiling, you need to leave a small hole of about 2 cm. This will protect against sudden temperature changes and provide additional ventilation. If this is not done, the boards may swell after a certain period of time. After finishing the finish, the slots are covered with a plinth.

Regardless of the fastening method chosen, the first and last planks are fastened with nails with a small head.

The rest of the panels can be attached in the following ways:

using screws, screws or nails;
clamps. This is the name of the clamps, which have a design with a special holder holding the board spike;
construction stapler.

You can choose any mounting method. But keep in mind that the board is first nailed to the middle beam of the sheathing and only then along the edges. Then the evenness of placement is checked using a level, after which the board is attached to the rest of the lathing bars.

Fastening with nails

A standard size board will take 6 - 7 nails

This method is one of the simplest and cheapest, but it is not able to provide a long service life of the structure. When driving in, a nail can damage the panel, which will significantly reduce the strength of the fastener. To avoid this, you can use a doboinik or pre-make holes in the desired section of the panel.

For one board of standard sizes, you will need about 6-7 nails. Such fastening will affect the appearance of the finish, so cracks and other defects will remain at the place of driving. But in some situations, this method of fastening is the only possible solution.

For such work, galvanized nails with a length of about 6 mm are used. They are carefully driven into the groove of the board and hammered into place. The hats are hammered inside with a doboiner, this will allow you to install the next bar without any problems.

Fasteners with self-tapping screws

Choose quality fasteners

This method is used for buildings where the appearance of the walls does not really matter. You can often find the use of this method for decorating baths.

But high humidity and a sharp change in temperature can lead to drying out of the fasteners, which will further worsen the appearance. This can be prevented by treating the finish with special antiseptics.

For prevention, it is better to process the boards every three months.

Self-tapping screws are sufficiently high-quality fasteners, therefore, if a high service life of the finish is required, their use can be considered the best solution.

To implement such fasteners in the boards, you will need to pre-make holes. Their diameter should be equal to half of the thickness of the fasteners.

Self-tapping screws are screwed into the board with a screwdriver. They should go as deep as possible. To hide the location of the fastener, you can use a wooden dowel or sand the surface.

Fastening with a stapler

How to properly fix the lining to the wall with a stapler? This procedure is quite easy and does not take much of your time and effort. But at the same time, you will need to be able to use such a tool. For more information on how to fix the lining with a stapler, see this video:

The staples must be inserted at a 45 ° angle. If the insertion procedure was performed correctly, the subsequent procedure for installing the bar will proceed without complications.

Fasteners with clamps

Convenient to use clamps for hidden fasteners

Clamps allow for hidden fasteners in almost any finish.

At the same time, the fixation will be strong and guarantee a long service life.

Mounting the lining with the help of such devices will allow you to achieve the following advantages:

With the right choice of the size of the fasteners, it is possible to carry out the installation concealed and guarantee its strength.
Clamps are made of high-carbon steel, which allows them to withstand high levels of moisture and sharp temperature changes for a long time. This allows you to use this method of fastening in bath rooms.

For the installation of standard profile euro lining, clamps are purchased with a tongue height of about 4 mm, and for fixing a block house - 6 mm. To finish 1 m2 of surface, you will need about 20 clamps.

With this method of fixing, the plate is put on the spike of the first panel and fixed to the crate with nails or self-tapping screws.

There are three holes for fixing, but only two can be used. It is better not to install the lining on one nail, as it can be torn out.

Screwing in self-tapping screws is best done with a screwdriver. This will greatly speed up and facilitate the process.

Horizontal installation of lining

When the boards are placed horizontally, installation can be done from the bottom of the wall. With this choice, you will be able to clearly see how best to fix the trim. In the overhead section, the final board is cut in width, which will significantly worsen the decorative component. In addition, with this method of installation, there will be holes between the boards, which will negatively affect with high moisture levels in the bath or sauna. For more information on how to sheathe a house with clapboard horizontally, see this video:

Therefore, mainly with horizontal placement, the boards begin to be fixed from the top of the wall. The first panel is installed with the groove down, directly under the ceiling. The next element is fastened with the first ridge into the groove of the previous one.

According to this scheme, all boards are installed. The final plank is cut to the width and inserted using a pry bar or nailer. A small hole near the floor is hidden with a plinth.

As you can see, the fastening of the lining can be done in different ways. The choice depends only on your personal preference and knowledge. The work is easy enough, so professional help is most likely not required.

The walls in the house in their area take up much more space than ceilings and floors. Therefore, their design should be treated as carefully as possible, having thought over for this both the type of facing material and analyzing its characteristics. In addition, the walls must necessarily have an attractive appearance and be easy to maintain. The article will focus on the choice and methods of fixing the euro lining.

Euro lining

Wood is one of the most demanded building materials. It is popular for cladding both the facade of the house and for interior work. After all, wood is a natural material that is ready to serve for more than one decade and has a rather attractive appearance.

Euro lining photo

Euro lining is a type of finishing material processed in a special way from all sides. To facilitate the cladding, there are grooves and spikes along its edges. The dimensions of the euro lining may vary slightly, but the most popular material is with the following parameters:
1. thickness 1.2 cm;
2. width 9.6 cm;
3. length 2-3 m.
Lining is a fairly practical material that is easy to install. It helps in leveling the walls, in hiding defects that have arisen from improper plastering of the walls. The characteristics depend on the type of wood itself from which it is made. After all, all types of wood are different in their structure and properties.
The material for the production of this type of finishing materials is wood, both deciduous and coniferous. Conifers are much lower in price than deciduous ones. So, cedar lining will cost more than pine. The choice of wood should be based on its area of application.
Also, other types of materials are used in production. The most cost-effective material is PVC lining, but in this case the finishing material is inferior in quality. After all, natural wood will always look much more attractive than artificial plastic.
If there is a need to finish the room from the inside, then it is allowed to use a finishing material with low characteristics. In the case of external cladding, on the contrary, you should use eurolining made of hardwood, which is not afraid of an aggressive operating environment, resistant to moisture and to sudden temperature changes. In order for it to last longer, it is treated with a special solution, which gives it greater strength and durability.

A kind of eurolining

Difference by class

class "extra". This is the most elite type of lining. It differs in that it has absolutely no defects;
"A" class... This type may contain minor defects;
"B" class... There are more knots here than in the class above. The knot diameter is also larger;
"C" class... The cheapest and low-quality type of euro lining. Its use for decoration is impractical.

Difference in wood

The most popular type of Euro lining is a board pine wood... This is due not only to the high positive indicators of the material, but also to the rather low price for it. Pine lining has a fairly high strength, and its specific gravity is relatively small. It will not put too much stress on the crate. This wood contains much less moisture than hardwood. In addition, the amount of time required to dry its blanks is significantly less than for drying other species. This fact leads to optimization of the production process and lower cost.
Since it is pine lining that has a high resin content in its composition, it is durable and useful for the human body. After all, the release of essential oils into the air can cure even advanced chronic pulmonary diseases. And the pleasant smell of pine will not harm anyone, while creating a good mood and a feeling of comfort. The resin itself is an excellent preservative, which significantly increases the life of the wood.

In addition, the pine board looks quite attractive and original. It has a peculiar yellowish tint and is distinguished by a beautiful pattern of knots and rings of a tree trunk.

The main advantages of pine euro lining:

attractive appearance and original texture of the material;
long service life. It is not even necessary to treat this board with special impregnations and apply a protective coating;
low weight;
a large number of manufacturers on the market;
relatively low price compared to other types of wood;
quite a wide range. The fact is that it is pine boards that are presented on the market in all kinds of designs. The sizes can be chosen for every taste. But lining from other types of trees of the required size is more difficult to find;
pine is a tree that is easy to handle and install. Thanks to this, it is quite easy to mount it. This can be done independently, without the involvement of professionals.

Of course, in addition to pine, the beneficial properties for the human body and strength associated with the presence of a high concentration of resin in the material also differ spruce lining... But it releases sticky drops of resin throughout its entire life cycle. This board is also called the crying board. In this regard, the price of a spruce lining is much lower than a pine board.

So, we go directly to the installation of the euro lining itself. In general, it is no different from the installation of a conventional lining. The only difference is the quality of the material and the size of the grooves.

How to fix the lining

Preparing walls for cladding. Initially, you need to align the wall. In this case, you should use a crate, which is installed at an angle of ninety degrees to the direction of the lining. The lathing is not required if the walls are already sufficiently flat.
Determining the direction of the lining... There are several types of installation. So, vertical laying visually increases the height of the ceilings. Horizontal - visually enlarges the space of the room. But laying at an angle will look stylish and original.
The choice of mounting method. In total, there are several options for attaching the euro lining. These are fasteners to the wall itself or to the lathing, fastening to special brackets with holes for mounting. The latter method is used if a narrow Euro lining is used. To do this, the bracket is nailed to the wall in order to connect it into the groove with the next element.
If you need to make the mount invisible, then you need to screw the self-tapping screw into the eurolining spike itself. In this case, the next element closes the head of the self-tapping screw when joining and entering the groove into the groove.
When self-tapping screws are attached to the lining itself, special wooden dowels are used. They allow you to hide the mount and give the wall covering a one-piece look.

Preparation for work on the installation of euro lining

Store the lining before installing it in a special way. It should be in the manufacturer's packaging in a dry and clean room, there should be no sudden temperature changes and direct sunlight should be absolutely excluded.
In order for the material to get used to the environment, it is recommended to remove it from the packaging two days before the start of installation work.
With the help of a dry or slightly damp cloth, dust and dirt on the material is removed.
It is very important at this stage to treat the lining with a special antiseptic solution. It prevents the growth of mold, mildew and insects. After that, the slats should dry thoroughly.

It should be noted that the installation work on the cladding is carried out exclusively at an air temperature of at least 5 ° C. Also, the humidity should not be higher than 60%.
If you want to cover the material with special decorative varnishes or paint, then the easiest way to do this is before starting installation work. This will allow the varnish to be applied evenly and dry without dripping. When lining the walls of a bath or sauna, the use of varnish is prohibited. Indeed, in the process of heating, it will emit harmful vapors into the air.
The next step will be to correctly calculate the amount of material that will be required for sheathing. For this, both the area of the walls or ceiling and the thickness of the board are taken into account. It should not be forgotten that the working width of the lining is reduced by ten millimeters due to the fact that the longitudinal tenon enters the groove of the next element.

Lathing for installing euro lining

In order for the lining to serve for a single decade and during operation does not lose its properties, it must be fixed exclusively on a flat surface. Therefore, it is often impossible to mount it on bare walls. If the walls are wooden and absolutely smooth, then in this case the installation can be started without surface preparation. If the wall is made of brick, concrete or metal, then you need to start with arranging a wooden crate.

It is a frame made of wooden slats, two or three centimeters thick and attached to the surface. They can be attached not only to the walls, but also to the ceiling and floor. If the slats are attached to the ceiling, then the distance between them should be about 40 cm. And if on the wall, then from 50 to 70 cm. The direction should be chosen so that they are at right angles to the boards. For best results, you should use a level. In this case, the slats will be installed as evenly as possible. It is also not worth saving on the material for the lathing. It is important that the slats are straight and free from significant defects. Their role lies not only in the perfect leveling of the surface, but also in the creation of special ventilation between the wall and the clapboard.

Methods for fixing euro lining

Fastening the lining with self-tapping screws. The lining is attached to the self-tapping screws on the side where the spike is. It is best to choose the length of the fasteners within the range of 1-1.5 cm. After tightening, the screws should be covered using a dowel. Upon completion of the cladding, it is necessary to cut off all protruding elements and carefully sand the entire surface.

Euro lining with invisible stapling. The first lining board is applied to the right corner and cut to size. After that, it is fixed with the help of special brackets, or as they are also called clamps. They firmly fix the cladding to the crate, while not interfering with the joining of subsequent slats by means of a thorn-groove.

Invisible nail mount. This method for fastening is similar to that for stapling. But, in this case, not staples are used, but narrow nails that are galvanized. But the hats should be hammered deep into the material, otherwise they will bulge and interfere with the fastening of the next board.

Do-it-yourself eurolining installation

The first board is exposed as evenly as possible in a vertical position in the right corner. In this case, you cannot do without a level. This is important because all other boards that are attached to the starting board must be perfectly level.
Further, the lining is attached using any of the methods previously described.
The subsequent board must be inserted with a spike into the groove of the initial one and hammered tightly along the board. Next, check the evenness of the vertical, using a level or plumb line. If even the slightest inaccuracies arise, then the board should be installed on a new one. The angle must be strictly 90 degrees.

The last plank is cut to size and in order to make the corner more beautiful, it is closed with fittings, in particular, a decorative wooden corner.
Installation of the ceiling with eurolining is carried out according to a similar principle.

Eurolining installation video

Eurolining care

In order for the facing board not to lose its attractiveness and serve as long as possible, without changing its characteristics, it requires correct and systematic care, which is directly related to the processing methods and the purpose of the lining.
If the room in which the lining will be located is excessively humid or prone to significant temperature changes, then the boards themselves may soon change their appearance, crack and deform.
All kinds of natural impregnations, oils and varnishes can serve for protection. They can be applied during the operation of the cladding, thereby renewing its appearance.
If you treat the lining with an antiseptic containing boric salt, then you can sheathe not only saunas and baths with it, but also the outer facade of the house. In this case, she will not be afraid of rain, wind or frost.
For the care of the lining, it is prohibited to use abrasive substances. It will be enough to wipe the wood with a damp cloth soaked in soapy water. If it is necessary to remove the stain on the board, then you can use the solvent locally. Subsequently, treat the cleaning site with varnish or oil, depending on what material it was previously treated with.

As you can see, Euro lining is a versatile natural material that does not require special care, is relatively inexpensive and easy enough to install. Reliability, practicality and amazing appearance of euro lining make it the leader among facing materials.

Lining is a popular finishing material, which is equivalent profiles with spikes and special grooves for strong fastening. It is made of wood or plastic and has a flat surface.

Recently, the lining has become widespread, because with its help it is possible to sheathe almost any surface, having achieved perfect smoothness. In addition, the material has many other significant advantages:

Ease of installation. Even a person who has no construction experience can cope with the installation of this material.
Low price. Compared to many other materials, it is inexpensive.
Environmental friendliness. Wooden lining is an environmentally friendly material that is made from wood with high decorative performance. Throughout the entire service life, it retains the properties that are inherent in wood.
Natural beauty, pleasant smell.
Good performance characteristics.
Large selection in color and shape. You can pick up the lining for any room, be it a living room or a shed.
With this cladding material, you can regulate the humidity inside the room.

Preparation for the installation of the lining

Before starting the installation of the lining, preparatory work should be carried out, which relate not only to the preparation of the walls, but also to the material itself. Before use, the lining must be sanded and carefully checked for any defects. After that, the lamellas are necessarily treated with an antiseptic and a primer, which will protect the material from decay and make it less fire hazardous.

You need to process all sides of the material, including the grooves. If the lining is made of resinous rocks, then it may be necessary to demineralize it. To do this, acetone must be applied to the place of discharge, and then the surface must be wiped.

If critical defects were found on any of the lamellas, then they should be set aside. For minor defects, such as a knot fallen out, a small crack or a pothole, the damaged areas are treated with putty. It is very important that the lining before installation "picks up the temperature" of the room in which it will be mounted. To do this, you need to put it in this very room for some time. If it will be used for outdoor work, then nothing needs to be done.

In addition to processing the material itself, you need to prepare the surface on which it will be attached. The lining does not provide for preliminary leveling of the walls with putty or plaster. You just need to make and install a simple frame structure, to which the lamellas will be attached. To create such a structure, you can use ordinary rectangular bars of 20 × 40 millimeters or 15 × 30 millimeters, depending on the curvature of the walls. It is important to remember that when installing the lining horizontally, the battens of the lathing must be fastened vertically. And with vertical - horizontally.

First, the lathing is mounted along the perimeter of the surface and in the corners. In this case, there should be two slats for each corner. After that, installation is carried out around doors and windows, if they are on the surface that is sheathed. And after all this, intermediate slats are attached. It is imperative to check with a plumb line and level all the rods. The more accurately and evenly the crate is exposed, the easier and faster the installation of the lining will be. If you do not keep track of the level, then at the subsequent stages of work this can lead to significant problems.

How and what to fix the lining

Before proceeding directly to the installation of the lining, you should install the insulation and waterproofing, and also choose the method of fastening the material. You can attach the slats to the ceiling, wall and lathing. What exactly to fix depends, first of all, on the customer himself and his preferences. There are several possible options:

With nails. Nails firmly and securely fix the lining to the crate. But, if the lining can be nailed strictly perpendicularly, then it is recommended to hammer the usual one only at an angle, otherwise the material may split. In this case, the length of the nail should be at least twice the thickness of the lamella. Fastening with nails is recommended if used lining is used.
Self-tapping screws. Basically, self-tapping screws are used for through fastening of the lining to the crate. They are rarely used for secret fastening. Self-tapping screws are best suited for fastening in the event that there is always a high level of humidity in the room.
Kleimers. It is necessary to use kleimers if in the future it is planned to carefully disassemble the lamellas without damaging them. They are also used for secret fastening, making the mounted lining more aesthetic and neat.
With staples. This method of fastening requires a special construction stapler (gun) capable of punching through thick wood. In addition, not all types of wood can be pierced with this tool. But there are advantages to using staples as well. With their help, installation can be done very quickly.
Combined method. This method of fastening involves the use of clamps or nails and self-tapping screws for fastening the lamellas from below and from above.

Which mounting method to choose depends both on certain factors and on the preferences of the customer himself.

Horizontal installation of lining: instructions

The horizontal installation of the lining is the simplest. Finishing with clapboard horizontally allows you to hide all flaws on the surface of the walls. This type of fastening is used mainly for the exterior decoration of the building, while it is recommended to fasten the lining with grooves downwards so that water does not flow into them, and over time the walls do not begin to swell at the junction of the lamellas.

Installation should start from a corner. In this case, special attention should be paid to the first lamella, because it will set the main direction of work. The smoother the first board is fixed, the easier it will be to continue the installation process. The first lamella is attached only from one end, after which the second side is set strictly horizontally using a level. Only when the board is leveled can it be fixed.

It takes a little effort to get the next board into the groove. Typically, a rubber mallet is used for this. If it is not there, then you can use the so-called tamping (trimming the lining). It is through the padding, so as not to damage the front side of the material, that blows should be carefully applied.

It rarely happens that the width of all lamellas ideally matches the height of the wall. Most often, you have to trim the last board along the entire length, and this must be done very carefully, even if the edges are covered with decorative elements. To make the wall look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing, it is better to use self-tapping screws to fasten the extreme lamellas, on which you can then put on wooden plugs, or special finishing nails without a cap.

Vertical installation of lining: instructions

Vertical clapboarding is the most common method of fastening. First of all, the vertical fixing helps to make the ceilings in the room visually higher. Also, with this method of fastening, the grooves are reliably protected from water flowing into them, which, in turn, has a positive effect on the service life of the material.

First, you should fix the topmost board. Just as with horizontal fastening, it is very important to align the first lamella correctly. However, in this case, we are interested in its vertical. Therefore, first, only one edge of the board is attached, then the correct level is set, and only after that the next lamella is mounted. This avoids skewing. Otherwise, the installation is carried out in the same way as with the horizontal fastening method.

There are other ways of fastening: herringbone, diagonal, combined. But they are quite complex, so it will be extremely difficult for a person who does not have construction experience to perform such an installation.

You should be aware that not all lining allows you to choose the method of installation. There are slats that are mounted strictly horizontally. Therefore, before buying a lining, it is better to consult and find out whether it is fastened in any way or in some specific way.

Installation of lining on the ceiling

To mount the lining on the ceiling, first, of course, you need to make a frame. It can be made of wood or made of metal profiles. To mount the frame, you need to find the lowest point on the ceiling and measure down from it by 5-7 centimeters. After that, from this point, using a water level, beat off all the corners of the room. Next, along these points, draw a contour along which the frame will be exposed.

When the frame is done, then you can proceed with the installation of the lining. To do this, you need to cut the strips to the required size. They should be about 5 millimeters less than the length of the room, this is necessary in order to leave a small gap between the boards and the wall. This will help protect the ceiling from the unpleasant effects of thermal expansion. If the walls are not made perfectly parallel, then it is better to cut the lamellas in fact, because at different ends of the room their length may differ slightly.

In general, the installation of the lining on the ceiling is no different from the wall fixing. The only thing is that it will be quite difficult to cope with it yourself, since it is inconvenient for one to put the board at the right angle, while holding it and fixing it. Rather, everything, without an assistant, will not be possible.

The cost of installing the lining

The cost of the lining depends, first of all, on the material itself (plastic or wood, type of wood, workmanship). Today the price per square meter starts from 3-4 dollars and reaches 25-30 dollars. In addition, do not forget that you will have to buy not only the lining itself, but also bars for battens, baseboards, decorative elements and various consumables.

If we talk about the work itself, then a good construction company will make the simplest installation of lining on straight walls for 3-4 dollars per square meter, excluding the installation of baseboards, insulation, antiseptic and other additional work. However, installation is not difficult, so many people choose to do it themselves, while saving a lot of money. In general, the lining is rightfully considered one of the best finishing materials in terms of price / quality ratio.

Features of the installation of the lining

The main feature of installing the lining with your own hands is the competent exposure of the first board. If it is not set perfectly evenly, then all subsequent lamellas will be installed crookedly, and in the future this will result in big problems. In order for beginners to insure themselves against such troubles, it is recommended to fasten the lining with clamps. In which case, they can be easily removed, dismantled, rearranged lamellas and re-fastened.

Euro lining today is one of the most popular materials for home decoration, and it will be useful to learn how to mount the lining yourself without assistance. It should be noted that this process is quite time consuming, but, despite this, everything can be organized with your own hands.

Preparatory work

In order to avoid problems during the installation process, you must know a few rules, the implementation of which is mandatory:

it is necessary to store the lining correctly. It should be in the package, in a room without strong temperature changes, so that the sun's rays do not fall on the material directly, and most importantly, the room where the lining will be stored must be dry;
two days before the start of work, you must get the material out of the package;
before proceeding with repair work, it is necessary to remove all dust and dirt from the material. This can be done with a dry cloth;
do not forget to treat the lining with an antiseptic and leave it for a while - so that it dries;
do-it-yourself installation of euro lining can be done at temperature indicators not lower than + 5 ° С, while the humidity should not exceed 55%;
in the event that you cover the lining with any decorative coatings, the best option would be to do this work before you start the installation, then the material will be painted evenly.

Advice! You should not use varnish for painting euro lining, which is intended for use in baths. Choose formulations for outdoor or indoor use - depending on the use of the panels.

We calculate the material

In order to correctly calculate the required amount of material for wall and ceiling sheathing, you will need to take into account the dimensions of the surface that you will sheathe and the width of the board. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that the longitudinal spike in the process of attaching the board to the wall or ceiling will go into the groove of the previous board, which means that its width will decrease by 10-12 millimeters.

Example:

Sheathed surface 2.5x4 m.
The width of the board is 96 millimeters.
We take into account the insertion of the spike into the groove, we get: 96-10 = 86mm.
Further calculation is carried out according to the formula: 4000/47 = 47 boards of 2.5 meters.
We attach the lining to the wall.

In order to create a stylish interior in the room, you must strictly follow the rules for fixing the euro lining. If you do not deviate from the instructions, in the end you will get a beautiful design, and the lining will serve you for a long time.

You must understand that it is possible to attach material directly to the wall only in the case of perfectly flat surfaces (unfortunately, very rarely walls and ceilings are perfectly flat), moreover, they must be made of wood.

On walls made of bricks and reinforced concrete, it is strictly forbidden to fix euro lining, therefore, in order to create a beautiful structure from euro lining on your walls or ceiling, you need to install a crate made of wooden beams.

Install the crate

The lathing is made of wood, most often their thickness is about 30 mm. They are attached to the ceiling, floor or wall, thereby forming a so-called frame for the further installation of the lining. The installation of the lathing should be perpendicular to the lining fastening. To make it clearer, let's explain: if the lining is mounted vertically, then the lathing beams should be placed horizontally, and vice versa.

The slats are attached from each other at a distance of 60-80 mm, if you make a frame on the wall. If you are installing the lathing on the ceiling or floor, then this distance will be 40 mm.

Tip: Do not forget, during the installation of the crate, it is necessary to use a level or plumb line so that the whole structure turns out to be even.

Some do not understand why such a structure as a crate is needed. After all, its installation takes a lot of time. In fact, it is needed for several reasons.

If you want your interior to be perfect, even and proportional, then installing the lathing is a mandatory step in creating a composition from. The second reason is the presence of ventilation of the boards, which is necessary for the normal functioning of the air in the room.

Do not forget! Ideal slats for creating a frame - 35x55 mm. They should not have any flaws and they should be even.

How to fix the lining

There are several ways to attach the lining, which we will present to you now. The design should be smooth and beautiful.

Fasten with self-tapping screws:

To begin with, you must drill a small hole in the lining to secure the self-tapping screw, and this must be done from the side of the thorn;
when we install the lining. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the holes we made. Do not forget to cover their hats with a dowel;
If the dowels protrude, after all the work they are cut off. Remember to sand the surface afterwards.

Fastening with staples:

In this way, the material is usually attached to the ceiling from the floor.
Fastening is carried out using a stapler, which drives the staples at an angle of 45 ° into the spike, thereby making it possible to install subsequent boards without interference.

We fasten with nails:

This method is not much different from the previous one.
The difference between them is that in this method they use staples instead of staples.
In order for the nail heads not to stick out and not be visible, you need such a tool as a doboiner, because the protruding hats will not give you the opportunity to continue mounting the next board.

We fasten with dowels:

The considered method involves installation from below, and nothing else.
We fix the first board from below with self-tapping screws, and from below. Do not forget to tighten the caps with a dowel.
After the work done, we proceed to the installation of the next panel. In the upper part of the previous board directly into the thorn, we screw the self-tapping screw, and so that its head is flush with the thorn itself (with its surface).
On top of the attached board, the next one is superimposed, which, in turn, closes the mount of the previous one. That is why the method is called secret fastening. It should be noted that the use of both staples and self-tapping screws is appropriate here.
After the installation process is over, you can start cutting off the protruding dowels. If done correctly, you will end up with a flat and smooth surface.

Any of these methods will give you a positive result, but only if you do everything correctly and consistently.

So, the instructions for fixing the euro lining:

Let's start by taking one panel and placing it strictly vertically. In order for everything to work out clearly, it is necessary to use a level, and throughout the entire process, the only way you will achieve the fact that the whole structure that you are building will be even.
Do not forget that you will need to fasten the first board exactly from the corner (from which side it does not matter, you want it on the right, but you want it on the left).
The boards that you will set up next should be set to the side of the previous board with a spike. We fix the board in any way you choose. If you have any questions, see our