Stage-by-stage apartment renovation. How to make repairs in an apartment with your own hands: photo, video
Although the repair belongs to a natural disaster in terms of the level of its mental impact, physical wear and tear and the taking of money, you need to approach it dispassionately, armed with plans, sketches and calculators. As for any process, there are detailed step-by-step instructions describing the sequence of apartment renovation, based on the centuries-old, long-suffering experience of more than one generation of home repairmen.
Repair stages should not be carried out spontaneously, but in strict sequence.
The sequence of apartment renovation: step by step instructions
Each point of this instruction is watered with sweat and blood:
falling bricks, fingers corroded by cement or broken off with a hammer, flying saw disks - that's roughly what can await the daredevils who decide to master the science of repair.
Much will not work out right away, and a number of completed works will have to be redone later.
But it's a shame that most of the alterations occur due to the fact that people make repairs in a completely different sequence.... If it were not for this, home repairs would be several times faster.
What is the sequence of apartment renovation?
We will divide all work into several stages:
Before starting the renovation, a sketch of the future interior of the apartment is drawn up - This is very convenient for those who are not in a hurry to do everything by an emergency method and are limited in funds.
- The purchase of everything you need can be done before each stage
- It is better to take a break from work exactly between stages.
- We start by knowing what we want to get in the end.:
- Cosmetic option or capital
- With what levels of comfort:
- unassuming (ordinary-type conveniences, nothing leaks, nothing blows out of nowhere)
- superior comfort (luxury plumbing, climate control, sound insulation, etc.)
- We draw up a layout with a choice of interior items and their arrangement.
There may be several options:- We contact a professional designer
- We use simple standard 3 D repair programs, for example, Sweet home 3D or Ikea
- We draw a sketch on our own using a graphic editor or on a regular sheet
- We make calculations of working surfaces
- We make a detailed list of everything you need to buy:
The list includes items of communication and furnishings, rough and finishing materials and construction tools.
You can't save on tools:
So, the presence of a construction mixer will speed up the floor screed and plastering of walls and ceilings at times. - In order not to miss anything, we get acquainted in detail with the technological process of each stage
- We make purchases of materials and tools
Rough repair work
- Dismantling and installation of walls and partitions
This work is usually done by those who are not satisfied. standard layouts, with the goals:- increase living space(by connecting the loggia with the hall or kitchen, removing niches, etc.)
- make a shared bathroom
- show off something unusual beautiful arches, passages, etc.
It's only a shame that, making such dismantling, lovers of capital demolition of buildings inadvertently demolish load-bearing walls, as a result of which they create a danger of collapse of the building during earthquakes or explosions
- Shtroblenie walls and piping communications:
- Holes are made in the walls for plumbing and sewer pipes, grooves for electric wires
- Electric wires run throughout the apartment to the designated outlets, switches, ceiling lighting and are brought out to the common corridor switchboard
- At the same stage, cables are laid for air conditioning, television and the Internet.
You can, of course, lay it later, but again you will have to chop the passages in the walls, or run the wires over, so that then you will always get confused in them and stumble - Do not forget that high-power electrical appliances (electric ovens, boilers, air conditioners are connected with three-core power cables
- Sewerage pipes are being laid from the common riser to the kitchen, bathroom, toilet
This is very important point... Make sure again that- location kitchen sink on your layout you will not change
- will install a bathroom, not a shower
- the type of toilet you choose is final
(Connecting toilets floor type and the attachment is different)
The toilet can generally be purchased in advance and immediately connected. This eliminates the inconvenience of repairs . Then, when the time comes to work in the toilet, it can be dismantled again for the period of laying the tiles.
When renovating, at the initial stage, they use the so-called rough toilet, which changes at the end.If the plumbing has not yet been purchased, then put plugs on the pipes to avoid leaks and odors from the riser
- Connect water pipes in the following sequence: first hot, then cold.
If hot is not provided for the project, then the connection hot water must be postponed until the repair of the room where the boiler will be installed is completed.
And only now we start plastering
- Plastering works
Plastering on walls - Plastering walls and grouting ceilings (leveling walls and ceilings
Plaster can be replaced with drywall - If the soundproofing of the room is being done, then the sound-absorbing material is applied beforehand.
- Leveling door and window slopes
- Plastering walls and grouting ceilings (leveling walls and ceilings
- Connecting pipes central heating to the battery
- Pipe priming
- Internal carpentry
- Manufacturing of built-in wardrobes and shelves
- Primer
- Installation of interior door frames
- Bathroom and toilet work
- Waterproofing and floor screed
- Floor and wall cladding
- Installation of a bathroom (if the bathroom is adjacent to the wall, then its installation is carried out after the wall is tiled)
- Screed floors in other rooms
- If the floors are insulated, the insulation is filled in before the screed
- In addition to concrete screed, also use dry, based on expanded clay and Knauf
Fine finishing works
The final stage
- Installation of switches, sockets, lamps, plumbing
- Assembly of kitchen furniture
- Installation of skirting boards
- Installation interior doors.
Often, during repairs, they make a mistake by installing doors at the very beginning.:
Doors prevent large objects from being brought in, so they are often scratched and damaged
And here doorjamb(box) is installed first, since the space between the box and the wall will need to be plastered.
Lighting connection, installation of skirting boards and interior doors takes place at the final stage In this step by step instructions contains a list possible jobs if you get a practically bare apartment.
In practice, much of this list may not be useful to you, since communications in new buildings, even in a draft version, are usually carried out.
Residents also do not always install sound insulation and floor insulation, but living in an apartment panel house makes you often regret some omissions that should have been done at the very initial stage.
You can determine the sequence of apartment renovation yourself, guided by the feasibility, layout, timing and financial capabilities.
Main condition:
Any subsequent step should not lead to corrections of what was already done in the previous step.
If this condition is not met, then the repair sequence was selected incorrectly.
Video: Stages of renovation
Often, renovation of the interior in an apartment takes many years, it becomes boring, costly, difficult and stressful. But this difficult task can be turned into a simple one and even fascinating process... It turns out to be not so difficult to make a repair of a room with your own hands, if you follow the order and the planned sequence of work. It is important to plan everything in advance and conduct careful preparation... So, how to make repairs in a room with your own hands so as not to get bogged down in this for years?
Work order planning
All stages of repair in an apartment must be planned in advance and strictly adhered to the intended sequence. This way you can not only save money, but also reduce work, as well as achieve a better result. It is necessary not only to decide on the room with your own hands, but also to draw up a design project, calculate the approximate cost.
A design project can, of course, be developed independently, but it is better to order it from a professional. Still, detailing the interior is a complex and creative business that requires appropriate experience.
To calculate the final cost, it is not necessary to go to a construction hypermarket or to the market. All prices for a specific city can be found on the World Wide Web. There are also contacts of companies that are engaged in both turnkey repairs and individual stages. construction works e.g. plastering, installation plastic double-glazed windows or stretch ceilings.
If you choose a complex repair, that is, turnkey work, you can get a discount, since this is already considered a bulk order in the construction industry. But repairing a room with your own hands is a way to save on wages for builders.
In general, the repair is carried out step by step as follows:
- Dismantling work.
- Replacement of double-glazed windows.
- Plaster.
- Conducting communications.
- Floor preparation.
- Fine finishing.
Dismantling works
The second stage of work is dismantling. Here you need to consider what result you need to get in the end. Redecorating- the simplest, fastest and most economical option. In this case, you just need to refresh the surfaces (for example, re-glue the wallpaper and put laminate flooring instead of the old linoleum) and change the plumbing in some cases.
Overhaul and renovation is much more difficult. Such a do-it-yourself room repair requires a complete change in the space, which should begin with a comprehensive dismantling. What should be done:
- remove old wallpaper;
- dismantle skirting boards and flooring;
- remove plumbing;
- dismantle the old wiring.
After these works, it is necessary to clean the premises and take out the construction waste. As a result, the room should be literally "bare".
Replacement of double-glazed windows
The next step is to replace the double-glazed windows. You can exclude this stage if you are doing your own bathroom renovation (step-by-step listing necessary work was given above). Typically in apartment buildings there are rarely bathrooms with windows. In other cases, you can order the replacement of double-glazed windows from the masters or do it yourself.
First you need to order a new window. To do this, you need to determine its size. Special attention should be given to the thickness - this parameter of the new glass unit should be the same as that of the old one. Otherwise, new glazing beads will have to be made. If the glass unit non-standard form(rhombus, triangle), a template must also be applied to the measurements.
When the new window is ready, you can start working. First you need to dismantle the old glass unit. Next, a new window is installed on plastic plates... The last one is glazing beads, first they are mounted short, then long.
When replacing double-glazed windows in windows with wooden frames you need to additionally process the joints with silicone. The most difficult thing to replace is in facade systems, since the glazing is fixed from the outside. In this case, it is better to use the help of professionals.
Plastering works
Plastering work with more or less even walls can be done independently. Firstly, it is necessary to outline the places of installation of the beacon profiles, secondly, to prime the walls, thirdly, to install beacons, and fourthly, to plaster the walls and make the slopes. It is not necessary to plaster on drywall, plastering work is carried out only on concrete walls.
If the bathroom is being repaired with do-it-yourself panels, you need to plaster the walls only if they are not very even in the places where the battens will be fixed. In other cases, you can limit yourself to removing the old coating and immediately begin to mount the panels on battens or liquid nails.
If you plan to use ceramic tiles in the bathroom or paint the walls, then plastering is necessary. A cement-based plaster is used: for concrete - cement-lime or polymer-cement; for brick walls, you can also take a sand-lime mixture.
Replacement of communications and plumbing
This is followed by one of the most crucial stages of DIY room renovation - installation electrical wiring, installation or replacement of batteries, laying of telephone, internet, television or alarm cables, installation or replacement of switches and sockets.
First you need to draw up a wiring plan, determine the power required for everyone household appliances and lighting. If an electric tank for heating water, an electric stove or an electric oven will be installed, it is advisable to connect them to separate wire... The markings must be transferred to the plastered walls, and only then begin gating the holes for the sockets and grooves for the wires.
Before starting work, it is important to complete piping and other related work.
Floor preparation
It is necessary to make a screed, leveling, arrange a warm floor. The latter will be very useful when repairing a combined bathroom with your own hands. In a room with a warm floor, there is no dampness, and, therefore, fungus does not develop, it will always be warm there. Take your time to install tiles or other flooring. The next stage is finishing work, but it is better to install the floor covering when the walls and ceiling are already completely ready.
Finishing work
The most crucial stage is finishing. This is the final stage of any renovation. Options fine finishing today there are many.
You can arrange a stretch ceiling, make the effect of the "starry sky" or the so-called floating ceiling. In this case, it is imperative to involve specialists. The ceiling can be repaired the old fashioned way: whitewash, wallpaper, decorate with special tiles. These types of work can be done independently. However, they are not relevant for the bathroom. The ceiling in this room is best made of PVC (stretch or panel) or ceramic.
There are much more wall decoration materials. It all depends on the budget and personal preferences of the owner. You can do your own bathroom renovation plastic panels(most a budget option), but you can use classic version: with tiles. Another common type of finishing material is paint. In the room, you can paste wallpaper, make decorative plaster or cover the surface of the walls with artificial stone.
The most popular floor coverings are laminate, linoleum, carpet, parquet, decorative tiles... Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. So, parquet - natural covering, which is considered to be more durable, but requires special care... Linoleum is cheaper than other materials, but it does not always look good enough, squeezes, swells or fades over time.
To this stage step by step repair rooms with their own hands can be attributed to the installation of doors. True, in this matter it is better to trust the professionals. The quality of the work will depend on performance characteristics doors.
Repair cost
The cost of repairs depends on many variables: everything will be done independently or with the involvement of professionals, at what stages hired workers will help, what quality building materials will be used, what is the footage of an apartment or room, what will be the design, and so on. The cost of a turnkey repair of one room (excluding building materials) in Moscow is 5-15 thousand rubles. Of course, there are a lot of expenses, plus everything you still need to buy furniture, household appliances, plumbing and so on.
It would be nice to calculate the cost of work and materials separately, then the most costly stages will become known. Next, you can determine which work is better to entrust to professionals, and which can be done independently. After that, the final picture with the cost and sequence of repairs will be clear.
When you mention the renovation of an apartment, is your thought limited to the picture of demolishing partitions and replacing windows? No problem. Today you can get short outline hostilities called " Stages of repairing an apartment purchased on the secondary housing market". After reading our tips, you will definitely not torment yourself with the question of where to start renovating an apartment with your own hands or with the help of professionals. Our website dedicated to self-repair apartments. So, let's take a look at the tips.
Where to start the first stage of apartment renovation - ceiling
Ceiling repair is the most pressing topic for many tenants who have purchased an apartment on the secondary market. After all, most of the newly-made owners have to face a number of "ceiling problems" every day, from crumbling plaster to cracks in the ceiling.
Where to begin? To perform the operation to level the walls, putty and plaster will be required. Each toolkit is selected individually depending on the scale of the disaster: if the irregularities (small dimples, cracks and dents) do not reach a depth of more than 5 mm, then puttying can be dispensed with; if the depth of defects is more than 5 mm, use plaster.
Well, the finishing touch in such a complex operation is painting and. Paper, textile, vinyl, metallized, cork, non-woven, for the nursery - all that remains is to choose a new look for your cozy nest.
The cost of repairs, an approximate estimate for work on the apartment
Average cost of construction work in an apartment
| Name of works | Unit rev. | Price, rubles | |
| 1. Floors | |||
| 1 | Removal of linoleum, carpet (without preservation) 1 layer | m² | 100 |
| 2 | Removal of hardboard, plywood (without preservation) 1 layer | m² | 90 |
| 3 | Dismantling wooden / plastic skirting boards (without saving) | n.m | 40 |
| 4 | Removal of parquet / laminate that has been installed in a floating way (without preservation) | m² | 165 |
| 5 | Removing parquet / laminate that is laid on glue and nails (no preservation) | m² | 215 |
| 6 | Dismantling the screed (up to 50 mm) | m² | 240 |
| 7 | Dismantling the screed (up to 100 mm) | m² | 300 |
| 8 | Dismantling the lag | m² | 120 |
| 9 | Dismantling the wooden floor (without saving) | m² | 275 |
| 10 | Dismantling tiles | m² | 120 |
| 11 | Dismantling of reinforced concrete skirting boards | n.m | 100 |
| 12 | Dismantling of granite floor slabs (without saving) | m² | 360 |
| 13 | Ceramic stitching. tiles | m² | 100 |
| 14 | Installing beacons on the floor | n.m | 70 |
| 15 | Backfilling expanded clay under the screed | m² | 100 |
| 16 | Floor insulation with expanded polystyrene | m² | 165 |
| 17 | Device cement-sand screed up to 50 mm | m² | 420 |
| 18 | Cement-sand screed device from 50 mm to 100 mm | m² | 650 |
| 19 | Reinforcement of the screed with a metal mesh | m² | 60 |
| 20 | Device finishing screed self-leveling mixture | m² | 295 |
| 21 | Floor waterproofing device (mastic) | m² | 190 |
| 22 | Floor waterproofing device (roll) | m² | 290 |
| 23 | Priming of cement-sand screed with concrete contact | m² | 60 |
| 24 | Priming of cement-sand screed with acrylic primer | m² | 30 |
| 25 | Plywood flooring and cutting with glue | m² | 230 |
| 26 | Plywood flooring and cutting for bituminous mastic | m² | 240 |
| 27 | Plywood sanding | m² | 130 |
| 28 | Laying the substrate on a heat / sound / waterproofing base | m² | 50 |
| 29 | Laying wooden logs | n.m | 100 |
| 30 | Laying commercial linoleum | m² | 300 |
| 31 | Processed seams in commercial linoleum | n.m | 60 |
| 32 | Laying linoleum | m² | 200 |
| 33 | Carpet flooring | m² | 190 |
| 34 | Styling cork cover on the floor | m² | 360 |
| 35 | Laminate flooring | m² | 350 |
| 36 | Parquet scrapping | m² | 300 |
| 37 | Parquet putty | m² | 90 |
| 38 | Flooring parquet boards floating way | m² | 400 |
| 39 | Flooring parquet boards with glue | m² | 500 |
| 40 | Masonry block parquet(run apart, herringbone) | m² | 900 |
| 41 | Flooring solid board floating way | m² | 600 |
| 42 | Planking solid boards with glue | m² | 700 |
| 43 | Adjustable floors | m² | 500 |
| 44 | Floor painting | m² | 160 |
| 45 | Floor varnishing | m² | 200 |
| 46 | Installation of skirting boards (wood or PVC) | n.m | 150 |
| 47 | Varnishing wooden skirting boards | n.m | 50 |
| 48 | Ceram masonry. tiles standard size(20 × 30, 40) | m² | 840 |
| 49 | Ceram masonry. standard size tiles diagonally | m² | 900 |
| 50 | Ceram masonry. tiles less than (20 × 30, 40) | m² | 960 |
| 51 | Ceram masonry. tiles less than (20 × 30, 40) diagonally | m² | 990 |
| 52 | Porcelain stoneware masonry | m² | 1 500 |
| 53 | Masonry mosaic tiles or a complex drawing (price from) | m² | 1 300 |
| 54 | Grouting (mosaic) | m² | 250 |
| 55 | Ceramic grouting. tiles / porcelain stoneware | m² | 180 |
| 56 | Washed down tiles at 45 degrees | n.m | 495 |
| 57 | Facing of steps with ceram. tiles | m² | 1 050 |
| 58 | Ceram masonry. curb, plinth, ornament | n.m | 240 |
| 59 | Installation of a metal nut | n.m | 120 |
| 60 | Shelter floor | m² | 80 |
| 2. Walls | |||
| 61 | m² | 70 | |
| 62 | Cleaning walls from water paints | m² | 170 |
| 63 | Cleaning walls from non-aqueous paints | m² | 200 |
| 64 | Dismantling tiles | m² | 150 |
| 65 | Cleaning walls from putty | m² | 180 |
| 66 | Removing the ventilation grill | units | 100 |
| 67 | Removing plaster | m² | 235 |
| 68 | Dismantling brick walls (1/2 brick) | m² | 285 |
| 69 | Dismantling of brick walls (1 brick) | m² | 495 |
| 70 | Dismantling of partitions made of reinforced concrete of thicknesses. up to 8 cm | m² | 2 420 |
| 71 | Dismantling of partitions made of reinforced concrete of thicknesses. up to 16 cm | m² | 3 795 |
| 72 | Dismantling of walls made of foam blocks, drywall, wood | m² | 350 |
| 73 | Dismantling of gypsum concrete partitions | m² | 450 |
| 74 | Wall masonry from foam blocks | m² | 540 |
| 75 | Laying of curved partitions from foam blocks | m² | 740 |
| 76 | Brick wall masonry (1/2 brick) | m² | 665 |
| 77 | Bricklaying walls | m² | 970 |
| 78 | Partition masonry complex shape brick | m² | 1 150 |
| 79 | Concrete wall opening | m² | 4 235 |
| 80 | Opening device in brick wall(1/2 brick) | m² | 2 365 |
| 81 | The device of an opening in a brick wall | m² | 3 025 |
| 82 | The device of an opening in the wall from foam blocks | m² | 1 540 |
| 83 | Waterproofing walls (mastic) | m² | 190 |
| 84 | Installation of plasterboard partitions in 1 layer | m² | 540 |
| 85 | Installation of plasterboard partitions in 2 layers | m² | 670 |
| 86 | Wall cladding with plasterboard in 1 layer on a metal frame with installation of shumanet | m² | 420 |
| 87 | Wall cladding with plasterboard in 2 layers on a metal frame with installation of shumanet | m² | 490 |
| 88 | n.m | 550 | |
| 89 | Bonding joints with serpyanka | n.m | 45 |
| 90 | Wall cladding with clapboard on the frame | m² | 500 |
| 91 | Wall cladding with plastic panels on the frame | m² | 430 |
| 92 | Wall insulation mineral slabs, foam | m² | 150 |
| 93 | Noise insulation device for walls | m² | 550 |
| 94 | Painting net installation | m² | 90 |
| 95 | Wall gluing with fiberglass | m² | 150 |
| 96 | Priming walls with concrete contact | m² | 75 |
| 97 | Installation of plaster beacons | n.m | 80 |
| 98 | m² | 120 | |
| 99 | Plastering of walls up to 20 mm | m² | 600 |
| 100 | Plastering of walls from 20 mm to 50 mm | m² | 650 |
| 101 | Priming walls with acrylic primer 3 cycles | m² | 135 |
| 102 | Priming walls with acrylic primer 4 cycles | m² | 180 |
| 103 | Installation of painting corners | n.m | 60 |
| 104 | Plastered walls 1 cycle | m² | 295 |
| 105 | Plastered walls 2 cycles | m² | 450 |
| 106 | Wall grinding 1 cycle | m² | 70 |
| 107 | Wall sanding 2 cycles | m² | 140 |
| 108 | Wall gluing with fiberglass | m² | 230 |
| 109 | Finishing wall putty 1 cycle | m² | 210 |
| 110 | Finishing wall putty 2 cycles | m² | 350 |
| 111 | Wall painting (2 layers) | m² | 245 |
| 112 | Decorative plastering | m² | 1 100 |
| 113 | Sticking walls vinyl wallpaper without pattern selection | m² | 220 |
| 114 | Wall gluing with vinyl wallpaper with pattern selection | m² | 280 |
| 115 | Wall gluing with non-woven wallpaper without pattern selection | m² | 300 |
| 116 | Sticking walls with non-woven wallpaper with pattern selection | m² | 350 |
| 117 | Wall gluing with textile wallpaper | m² | 750 |
| 118 | Sticking walls with linkrusta | m² | 1 000 |
| 119 | Wallpaper border gluing | n.m | 130 |
| 120 | Wall covering ceramic tiles one drawing 100 × 100 | m² | 970 |
| 121 | Wall cladding with ceramic tiles of one pattern 200 × 200 | m² | 850 |
| 122 | Wall cladding with ceramic tiles of one pattern 200 × 300 | m² | 825 |
| 123 | Ceramic wall cladding. tiles of the same pattern in different sizes | m² | 1 000 |
| 124 | Laying the mosaic on finished surface(price from) | m² | 1 300 |
| 125 | Laying tiles on the wall | m² | 1 500 |
| 126 | Washed down tiles at 45 degrees | n.m | 495 |
| 127 | Installing a ceramic curb | n.m | 250 |
| 128 | Installation of decorative corners | r.m | 100 |
| 129 | Sticking decorative stone | m² | 825 |
| 130 | Grouting (mosaic) | m² | 250 |
| 131 | Ceramic grouting. tiles | m² | 180 |
| 132 | Priming of slopes with concrete contact | n.m | 75 |
| 133 | Plastering of slopes | n.m | 540 |
| 134 | Slope priming 3 cycles | n.m | 120 |
| 135 | Slope priming 4 cycles | n.m | 160 |
| 136 | Slope putty | n.m | 300 |
| 137 | Grinding slopes | n.m | 70 |
| 138 | Gluing slopes with fiberglass | n.m | 230 |
| 139 | Finishing slope putty 2 cycles | n.m | 350 |
| 140 | Slope painting (2 layers) | n.m | 260 |
| 141 | Ventilation grill assembly | units | 250 |
| 3. Ceilings | |||
| 142 | Removing old wallpaper 1st layer | m² | 90 |
| 143 | Cleaning the ceiling from water paints | m² | 190 |
| 144 | Cleaning the ceiling from non-aqueous paints | m² | 310 |
| 145 | Cleaning the ceiling from putty | m² | 190 |
| 146 | Cleaning the ceiling from foam tiles | m² | 250 |
| 147 | Dismantling slatted ceiling in the bathroom | m² | 250 |
| 148 | Dismantling of stucco and ceiling cornices | n.m | 250 |
| 149 | Dismantling of PVC ceiling cornices | n.m | 150 |
| 150 | Removing plaster | m² | 240 |
| 151 | Dismantling the ceiling from gypsum plasterboard in 1 level | m² | 140 |
| 152 | Dismantling the ceiling from gypsum plasterboard in 2 levels | m² | 210 |
| 153 | Joining and filling cracks | n.m | 120 |
| 154 | Ceiling waterproofing device (mastic) | m² | 250 |
| 155 | Plasterboard box device | n.m | 750 |
| 156 | Device false ceiling from gypsum plasterboard in one layer | m² | 445 |
| 157 | Arrangement of a suspended ceiling in two layers of gypsum board | m² | 550 |
| 158 | Mounting split-level ceiling from GKL | m² | 660 |
| 159 | Arrangement of 2 levels of the ceiling of a complex geometer. shape | m² | 750 |
| 160 | 2-level ceiling device with built-in interior lighting | m² | 825 |
| 161 | Arrangement of 2 levels of the ceiling is a simple geometer. shape | m² | 660 |
| 162 | Bonding joints with serpyanka | r.m | 45 |
| 163 | Installation of a mirrored suspended ceiling from 10 m². | m² | 725 |
| 164 | Installation of a slatted ceiling in the bathroom | m² | 880 |
| 165 | Arrangement of a false ceiling of the "Armstrong" type | m² | 250 |
| 166 | Ceiling insulation with mineral plates, foam | m² | 200 |
| 167 | Sheathing of the ceiling with clapboard on the frame | m² | 545 |
| 168 | Ceiling cladding with plastic panels on the frame | m² | 460 |
| 169 | Turnkey stretch ceiling installation (price from) | m² | 650 |
| 170 | Installation of plaster beacons | n.m | 95 |
| 171 | Metal reinforcing mesh device | m² | 110 |
| 172 | Ceiling priming with concrete contact | m² | 75 |
| 173 | Ceiling plastering up to 20 mm | m² | 630 |
| 174 | Ceiling plastering from 20 mm to 50 mm | m² | 670 |
| 175 | Ceiling primer with acrylic primer 3 cycles | m² | 135 |
| 176 | Ceiling primer with acrylic primer 4 cycles | m² | 180 |
| 177 | Installation of painting corners | n.m | 75 |
| 178 | Ceiling putty 1 cycle | m² | 360 |
| 179 | Ceiling putty 2 cycles | m² | 500 |
| 180 | Ceiling grinding 1 cycle | m² | 90 |
| 181 | Ceiling sanding 2 cycles | m² | 180 |
| 182 | Bonding the ceiling with fiberglass | m² | 280 |
| 183 | Finishing ceiling putty 2 cycles | m² | 380 |
| 184 | Putty, grinding curved ceiling elements | n.m | 620 |
| 185 | Fiberglass gluing of curved ceiling elements | n.m | 250 |
| 186 | Ceiling painting (2 layers) | m² | 280 |
| 187 | Gluing the ceiling with vinyl wallpaper without selecting a pattern | m² | 280 |
| 188 | Gluing the ceiling with wallpaper for painting | m² | 300 |
| 189 | Gluing the ceiling with vinyl wallpaper with pattern selection | m² | 360 |
| 190 | Bonding the ceiling with non-woven wallpaper without selecting a pattern | m² | 370 |
| 191 | Bonding the ceiling with non-woven wallpaper with pattern selection | m² | 420 |
| 192 | Gluing the ceiling with textile wallpaper | m² | 900 |
| 193 | Installation, pulling and plastering of plaster moldings around the perimeter (price from) | n.m | 500 |
| 194 | Installation, putty of polyurethane foam ceiling cornices | n.m | 290 |
| 195 | Painting of polyurethane foam ceiling cornices 2 cycles | n.m | 100 |
| 4. Electrical work | |||
| 196 | Dismantling electrical wiring | n.m | 40 |
| 197 | Dismantling spotlights, sockets, switches | units | 60 |
| 198 | Plugs for sockets, switches | units | 170 |
| 199 | Dismantling the chandelier (price from) | units | 150 |
| 200 | Dismantling the power shield | units | 420 |
| 201 | Slitting concrete for electrical wiring 20x40 mm | n.m | 240 |
| 202 | Slitting bricks for electrical wiring 20x40 mm | n.m | 180 |
| 203 | Slitting plaster for electrical wiring 20x40 mm | n.m | 120 |
| 204 | Sealing the strobe | n.m | 170 |
| 205 | Holes in concrete 25 mm | units | 240 |
| 206 | Holes in brick 25 mm | units | 120 |
| 207 | Styling power cable up to 6 mm² | n.m | 90 |
| 208 | Low-voltage cable laying | n.m | 45 |
| 209 | Junction box installation | units | 180 |
| 210 | Installing a transformer (12V) | units | 240 |
| 211 | Installation of trays | n.m | 320 |
| 212 | Installation of an electric box with a cross section of up to 50x50 mm | n.m | 100 |
| 213 | Installation of an electric box with a section up to 200x50 mm | n.m | 200 |
| 214 | Installation of an internal flap for 24 modules (concrete) | units | 4 235 |
| 215 | Installation of an internal flap for 24 modules (brick) | units | 3 025 |
| 216 | Installing a low-current shield | units | 1 210 |
| 217 | Assembling the power shield (price from) | units | 5 000 |
| 218 | Installing the outer flap | units | 1 815 |
| 219 | Styling heating element warm floor | m² | 800 |
| 220 | Connection and installation of a rheostat for a warm floor | units | 400 |
| 221 | Installation of socket outlets in concrete | units | 230 |
| 222 | Installation of socket outlets in brick, plaster | units | 180 |
| 223 | Installing an electrical outlet, switch | units | 380 |
| 224 | Ring setting | units | 350 |
| 225 | Installing a video intercom | units | 550 |
| 226 | Connecting an electric heated towel rail | units | 1 870 |
| 227 | Fan connection and installation | units | 485 |
| 228 | Installation of spotlights | units | 370 |
| 229 | Installation of sconces | units | 450 |
| 230 | Ceiling light installation | units | 550 |
| 231 | Installing the hook under the chandelier / lamp | units | 180 |
| 232 | Installation of chandelier 3-arm diameter up to 50 cm | units | 500 |
| 233 | Chandelier installation 3-arm diameter from 50 cm | units | 700 |
| 234 | Installation of a chandelier 5-arm diameter up to 50 cm | units | 650 |
| 235 | Chandelier installation 5-arm diameter from 50 cm | units | 850 |
| 5. Plumbing work | |||
| 236 | Dismantling of PVC pipes | n.m | 130 |
| 237 | Dismantling of cast iron pipes | n.m | 150 |
| 238 | Dismantling of water supply pipes | n.m | 130 |
| 239 | Dismantling the bathtub | units | 1 700 |
| 240 | Dismantling the kitchen sink | units | 420 |
| 241 | Dismantling the sink | units | 620 |
| 242 | Dismantling the heated towel rail | units | 480 |
| 243 | Dismantling the washing machine | units | 300 |
| 244 | Dismantling "moidodyr" | units | 330 |
| 245 | Dismantling the shower cabin | units | 900 |
| 246 | Dismantling the toilet bowl, bidet | units | 550 |
| 247 | Removing the radiator | units | 330 |
| 248 | Dismantling the mixer | units | 190 |
| 249 | Dismantling the crane, filter, gearbox | units | 165 |
| 250 | Slitting bricks for communications 50x70 | n.m | 650 |
| 251 | Slitting concrete for communications 50x70 | n.m | 1 400 |
| 252 | Sealing the strobe | n.m | 170 |
| 253 | PVC sewer pipe laying | n.m | 210 |
| 254 | Laying of pipes made of metal-plastic with a diameter of up to 32 mm | n.m | 290 |
| 255 | Polypropylene pipe laying | n.m | 230 |
| 256 | Copper pipe laying | n.m | 400 |
| 257 | Brazing copper pipes | PCS. | 600 |
| 258 | Installation of copper fittings (angle, tee, cross, couplings, etc.) | PCS. | 350 |
| 259 | Installing the comb | units | 960 |
| 260 | Installation of filter, reducer | units | 960 |
| 261 | Installation of bathtubs cast iron / steel / acrylic | units | 2 200 |
| 262 | Installation of a shower cabin with a connection | units | 5 445 |
| 263 | Installation of "moidodyr" | units | 1 650 |
| 264 | Installing a shell, tulip | units | 1 450 |
| 265 | Installing the shower bar | units | 400 |
| 266 | Installation installation | units | 2 420 |
| 267 | Installing a toilet or bidet | units | 2 145 |
| 268 | Installing a heating radiator in a regular place | units | 650 |
| 269 | Installing a new heating radiator | units | 3 000 |
| 270 | Installation of a heating radiator with a tie-in into a riser | units | 5 445 |
| 271 | Installing a heated towel rail | units | 2 500 |
| 272 | Installation of a storage type water heater | units | 2 300 |
| 273 | Installation of a flow-through water heater | units | 1 650 |
| 274 | Installing accessories | units | 250 |
| 275 | Washing machine connection | units | 1 400 |
| 276 | Heating pipes painting 2 cycles | n.m | 70 |
| 6. Carpentry work | |||
| 277 | Dismantling the door leaf | units | 100 |
| 278 | Dismantling door block | units | 275 |
| 279 | Installation of a swing door block | units | 1 900 |
| 280 | Installation swing door with insertion of hinges, locks with installation of a door frame, with platbands and extensions | set | 3 000 |
| 281 | Installation of platbands | set | 990 |
| 282 | Installation of add-ons | set | 1 100 |
| 283 | Installation of a sliding door block | units | 2 100 |
| 284 | Installation of a double-leaf sliding door block | units | 2 700 |
| 285 | Mounting double doors swing | units | 2 200 |
| 286 | Inset door hinges, locks with handles | set | 600 |
| 287 | Painting windows | m² | 360 |
| 288 | Door painting | m² | 420 |
| 7. Transport costs | |||
| 289 | Removal of bags construction waste | units | 80 |
| 290 | Removal of construction waste bags (floors without an elevator) | units floor | 40 |
| 291 | Skid building materials | T | 1 500 |
| 292 | Skidding of building materials (floors without an elevator) | t floor | 750 |
| 293 | Removal of construction waste in 8m3 containers (with a weight of cargo in a container up to 5 tons) | cont. | 6 000 |
| 294 | Removal of construction waste in 20m3 containers (with a weight of cargo in a container up to 15 tons) | cont. | 14 000 |
| 295 | Removal of construction waste in 27m3 containers (with a container weight of up to 26 tons) | cont. | 18 000 |
| 296 | Removal of construction waste in containers 32m3 (with a weight of cargo in a container up to 26 tons) | cont. | 20 000 |
| 297 | Delivery of building materials | T | 1 700 |
First of all, decide what kind of renovation you need: cosmetic or major. Quite often it happens that the desire to re-glue the wallpaper entails the replacement of doors, skirting boards, ceiling decoration, etc., which leads to much higher costs, disruption of the correct sequence of work and repeated alterations. Overhaul requires careful planning, strict adherence technological process and large material investments. Decide on the future interior. Based on your financial capabilities, you can make the project yourself, or invite an experienced designer. In the first option, you will have to fully focus on your taste in the choice of wallpaper, tiles, flooring etc., as well as independently calculate the required volume and quantity of materials. A specialist will help you find the best color solutions, modern Decoration Materials and stylish accessories in accordance with fashion trends however, such a project will not come cheap. Be sure to make a rough estimate based on the design project and available financial resources. Then compare the cost of materials in hardware stores, markets, hypermarkets for household goods and select the best offers. Based on these data, adjust the estimate and evaluate your material base. You may have to take out a loan or make changes to the project if it turns out to be too costly. When planning expenses, it is necessary to take into account who will carry out the renovation of the apartment: on their own or with the help of hired workers. Some types of work that do not require special preparation can be done independently, for example, wallpapering, laying tiles, whitewashing the ceiling. But such activities as replacing electrical wiring, installing plumbing, leveling the floor and walls, installing doors and windows, etc., are best left to specialists. If you decide to hire a contractor for the repair, study the offers on the construction and finishing works and services, read the reviews on the Internet and choose a company that has a proven track record the best way... Don't chase cheapness: low price may mean appropriate quality. Also, do not trust companies that promise to make repairs in a short time, since it is very likely that speed in this case speaks of neglect. building regulations and norms and violation of technology, and this will entail the need for re-alteration. Relying on your own strength in carrying out repairs, draw up a clear plan, determine the sequence of work. In particular, it is first of all desirable to update the bathroom and toilet, and lastly, the hallway and balcony. For a major overhaul, start by replacing electrical wiring, heating radiators, then level the walls and floor, install new doors and windows. Next - finishing the ceiling, flooring, wallpapering or painting the walls. Apartment renovation is not an easy and troublesome business. But if you have a goal, a firm intention of a specific plan, success is guaranteed. The main thing is not to deviate from the intended path and not to stretch the renovation of the interior for years.
It is very important to determine the real scope of work and relate them to your financial capabilities. All design and design decisions must be made before actually starting. renovation works... Redoing is expensive, long and sometimes impossible.
Where to start renovating a room?
Having dealt with preparatory process and finding yourself in front of bare ragged walls, you still do not fully imagine the entire volume of forthcoming expenses and work. However, you can already find out where and what will be located, what colors are optimal in a particular room and where the computer, TV and other electrical equipment will be installed. Be sure to pay attention to the location of the windows and the need for additional lighting in the rooms. What for? Because repairs should begin with equipment or re-equipment of the electrical network, including the location of the lamps - basic and additional.
This should be done both in old apartments that are being completely renovated and in new buildings. It's no secret that in new houses, wiring is installed without taking into account the wishes of the owner. Each newcomer invariably has a desire to adapt housing to their needs as much as possible. The abundance of electrical technology requires an optimized, high-power grid with many branches. Very uncomfortable in new apartment unwind all kinds of extension cords and install additional sockets.
Parallel to electrical network the air conditioning system and the fixing elements of the heating network devices should be installed. It is also necessary to perform work requiring chiselling, drilling, grooving, grooving, recesses and other disfigurement of walls, floors and ceilings, accompanied by the formation of dust and fragments of brick, concrete and plaster. Then we calmly remove the debris and start preparing the foundation of the future floor.
There are several options:
installation of a rough plank floor;
pouring a concrete screed;
preparation for the installation of a warm floor;
What's next?
The next stage of renovation work concerns the windows. If replacement is required, we change. If the windows have already been installed and satisfy your request, then we skip this stage, not forgetting to inspect the condition of the slopes, the presence of thermal insulation, and the sealing of cracks. It is worth checking how the doors open and close, if there are any distortions, what are the vertical and horizontal levels. It is very difficult to eliminate these seemingly obvious imperfections after plastering and painting walls or pasting wallpaper. It is also advisable to install internal window sills. A plastic wrap will help protect them from splashes of paint and putty.Of course, this work can be done later, when installing interior doors, but this option is more practical.
If the walls in the room require additional leveling and a significant amount of work before painting, then calculate the total building mixtures required to process all the walls to be repaired. Building materials, despite their high cost, should always be taken with a small margin. It is very inconvenient to run after a bag or two of putty, which, as a rule, ends at the most inopportune and crucial moment.
The sequence of work on the repair and decoration of the room: frequently asked questions
What comes first: floor screed or plaster / putty on the walls?The answer to this question is unambiguous - before starting wall decoration, you must complete everything preparatory work with the floor. It should be ready, after cleaning, to install decorative flooring. The floor covering is installed last, whether it is laminate, parquet or a self-leveling 3 D effect floor. The prepared base of the floor is covered with cardboard or foil - this will make it easy to remove traces plastering works, and such appear inevitably.
Before starting the putty and plastering work, you need to complete all the manipulations with the drywall, if any. All partitions, niches, decorative and functional details must be done before the start of the "wet" finishing phase. All work of this kind, including leveling the ceiling, must be performed in one technological cycle, so as not to return to them, remembering, for example, that “somewhere here” a niche for storing skis or installing a safe has been conceived.
Which comes first: flooring or installing doors?
Any type of flooring must be installed prior to installing the interior doors. This will help to avoid mistakes during their installation and to achieve a minimum gap between the threshold or floor plane and the door leaves. Door installation is a clean and precise job that does not require the use of mortars, glue or other substances that can stain a clean floor. The tools used in this case cannot damage it, with careful work.
But this applies directly to the door. Door frame can be placed earlier - before leveling the walls. This will remove all cracks and irregularities near the opening. If the walls and openings are initially ideal, you can postpone the installation of the box until later.
When installing the box ahead of schedule, it is important to take into account the height of the future floor covering!
What comes first: to glue the wallpaper or lay the laminate (parquet, carpet)?
Any type of wallpaper is glued to the prepared walls prior to the installation of the decorative flooring. This is also true for painting walls.
True, there are different opinions on this issue. Supporters of the second option answer this question in the same way as the question of what first: paint the ceiling or glue the ceiling plinth. According to their position, the wallpaper is glued after the floor has been installed and ceiling plinth, because you can replace the wall decoration at any time without touching the baseboards either from the bottom or from the top. And the edges of the wallpaper are just enough to cut exactly to the level of the plinth.
The ceiling is painted after the installation of the upper plinth. In this case, it is very convenient to eliminate all irregularities and leaks in the connection, and then the plinth and ceiling are painted in one step and look monolithic.
What comes first: stretch ceiling or wallpaper / painting?
The specificity of stretch ceilings makes it possible to install them at the final stage of renovation work, after painting the walls and pasting the wallpaper. This is a very clean job and it is difficult to damage walls or floors while doing it.
The top-down priority principle does not work in this case. It concerns mainly traditional renovation work. New technologists are making their own adjustments. The specialists themselves who assemble stretch ceiling, recommend inviting them to the end of the renovation.
***
If you compose short list the sequence of repair work in the room, then it will look like this:
wiring; heating and air conditioning system; preparation of the sub-floor; dismantling / installation of windows; preparation of walls for wallpaper or painting; ceiling (all works); painting walls or wallpapering; clean floor; installation of doors; thresholds and floor plinth; stretch ceilings This order is not an axiom. Each master chooses the sequence that is convenient for him. But in general, the order looks something like this.
