Finishing of window slopes inside with plaster. The subtleties of the process of plastering slopes

Plastering window slopes is known almost from the time when windows appeared in their modern form. Instructions for performing this operation are much easier than working on large areas, therefore, plastering window slopes with your own hands is available even for an unprepared person. Moreover, plastic is a neutral material, and it is easier to work with such windows than with wooden ones.

Tool selection

The better to plaster the slopes on the windows is a rhetorical question, each master has his own subtleties, but in any case, the following set of tools will come in handy:

Building level.
As a rule, aluminum is better.
Pencil and tape measure.
Malka made of plywood or metal.
Master OK.
Containers for water and solution.
A hammer and chisel may be useful.

Concerning building level, do not take a large one, it may not fit into the opening... Small will not give the required accuracy. The best option is meter level... You will also need a sealant and a regular knife.
Carefully inspect how well the perimeter of the frame was blown out with foam. You may need a small can of foam to fix installers' blemishes.
If you decide to work with cement mortar, then you cannot do without a grater and a half-grater.... To work with "Rotoband" you need both large and small trowels. Spatula large 450 mm, plus a special spongy grater.
Mortars cannot be called neutral, so you should take care of work clothes.... So that your hands are not corroded, buy nitrile sealed gloves and preferably a hat.
If you are going to plaster several windows, but your own height is not enough, get a small construction goat. Working from a bench or ladder is much longer and very inconvenient.

Getting Started

Preparatory stage

High-quality plastering of window slopes is impossible without performing certain preparatory activities.

You should start by trimming excess foam, the work is not difficult and is performed with a sharp construction or ordinary knife.
After trimming, you need to view and remove all protruding parts on the wall and around the window. Protruding surplus metal elements, with which the window was attached, should be cut with metal scissors. There is no need to fear for the stability of the frame, these elements fix it only at the initial stage, then the main load falls on the foam.
The walls should be cleaned with a wire brush. If the house is brick, then for better fixing of the mortar, you can deepen the seams between the brickwork up to 5 mm. On smooth concrete walls you can mount a galvanized mesh, this is especially true if the mortar layer is planned to be more than 20 - 30 mm.

At the last stage of preparation, dust is removed, construction garbage and the base is primed. If the room is dry and warm, then liquid can be used as a soil. cement mortar... Otherwise, it is better to use special primers with antibacterial qualities. The primer is applied with a brush.
Around the perimeter of the frame, a layer of polyurethane foam up to the wall is treated with a sealant to ensure waterproofing. As a rule, these are silicone-based formulations. Thanks to such processing in the off-season, the windows will not fog up, it is performed quickly, it is cheap, and the benefits are enormous.

A few words about solutions

Plaster for window slopes can be for interior and external works... So, for internal works you can use a mixture of alabaster with sand in a 1: 2 ratio. The cement-sand mortar is mixed 1: 3, and the composition of cement, alabaster, sand is in a ratio of 1: 1: 2.
Although it is more convenient to work with special dry mixes such as Rotoban. Their price is higher, but they fit better, plus they have good insulating and antibacterial characteristics.
For outdoor work, compounds are used exclusively on a cement basis. They are better able to withstand sudden temperature changes, high humidity and harsh chemicals. But here, it is necessary to add to the solution liquid glass and special plasticizers.

Plastering

Important: the window sill must be installed before starting the cladding work. Moreover, it is mounted finally, with a rigid mount and level check. Good to check spilled water, it will immediately show in which direction the slope is going.

Before you start placing beacons, you should decide at what angle the surface will be equipped. On technical language this is called the angle of dawn. It is set using a protractor and should be the same along the entire perimeter. Do not hope that you will be able to expose it by eye, the result will be disastrous.

Depending on the thickness of the plaster layer, the angle can vary from 10 to 25 mm, for every 100 mm of the opening depth. For example, if the depth of the opening is 250 mm, then the angular displacement will be in the range of 25 - 65 mm.
Further beacons are installed. WITH outside it can be a flat wooden plank or a special metal profile. Directly near the frame is used aluminum corner... At the end of the work, the outer lighthouse will be removed, and the inner one is covered with mortar and remains inside.

The outer lighthouse is nailed or fixed with self-tapping screws, the inner corner is set on alabaster or cement mortar and left until completely fixed.
The plaster is poured with a trowel, in small portions. You should start from the sector above the window. Layers are applied from the edges to the center and immediately flattened. If the layer thickness is significant, then the work is performed in several stages. For cement-sand mortars, the maximum layer thickness in one application does not exceed 20 mm. For gypsum-based mortars up to 50 mm.

Advice: new plastic windows are covered with a protective film, do not rush to remove it until the slopes are made. If the film has already been removed, then you can use masking tape and polyethylene. The fact is that given view the work is rather dirty and it is easier to cut off the tape then to wipe off the plastic.

After application, each layer should adhere well and only after that you can start applying the next one. If you hurry and apply the solution in an unnecessarily thick layer, then it will not dry evenly, cracks will go along it, and in some places it may float.
The thickness of the outer layer should be slightly larger than the beacons. After throwing it in, a wide spatula is taken, a rule or a corner for plastering slopes and gradually, relying on beacons, excess mortar is removed. As a result, we get a relatively flat surface.
Further, the surface is leveled and rubbed with a trowel. In places where small shells remain, a semi-liquid solution is added and immediately rubbed with a scrubber until the surface is flat. When the solution is completely dry, it needs to be wiped with a small knife to an ideal state.
After grouting the surface, remove the corners. To do this, remove the external beacons. The angle is removed with a grater and a half-grater, you can use only two half-graters.
First, a half-trowel is applied to one plane, and with the second tool, a solution is applied and the angle is leveled. After that, the same actions are performed, only on a different plane.

Next, we move on to painting. Use is better acrylic paints on a water-dispersion basis, it is the most optimal option. Before painting, the surface, in warm and dry rooms, need not be primed. But in some cases, in humid rooms, an antibacterial soil is used.
Window plastic has the peculiarity of expanding in the sun. To prevent the edge of the slope from cracking or deforming from expansion, we advise you to do the following.
After the final leveling of the mortar, take a metal trowel and at a 45º angle to the frame, cut a groove to a depth of 3 - 5 mm. Then it is filled silicone sealant, to match the cladding. Silicone material is elastic and deformations are not afraid of it.

The video in this article clearly shows

Slope plaster plastic windows- this is very important stage any repair. After all, this is part of the opening, and if a gap arises here, then the room is unlikely to be suitable for living.

In general, it is difficult to underestimate the importance of windows. First of all, they are a source of natural light, and their role in the interior is also far from the last. And this applies not only to the windows themselves, but also to the slopes that frame them, which can also give the room a unique look. They hide the mounting elements, and the whole structure acquires integrity and completeness.

However, interior design is far from the main function, although, of course, it should not be underestimated. In addition, the finishing of the slopes affects the thermal insulation of the room. After all, even a layman knows that the greatest heat loss will always be in the area of windows and entrance doors. And in order to reduce them to a minimum, it is necessary to carry out complex work on the installation of window sills, slopes, and their finishing. And only then will the room be cozy and warm at any time of the year. In addition, if you do not trim the slopes, then the dew point will be inside the room, which will lead to constant fogging of the glasses.

Choice of modern finishing materials simply amazes with its diversity, the leading positions among them are taken by drywall, plastic, it has also become very fashionable to frame windows with very original slopes made of different breeds wood or cork. However, despite such a wide list, the oldest and reliable method, proven over the years - plaster.

And all thanks to its advantages, firstly, it does not require any special knowledge, tools and skills. Although you will have to work hard, because appearance slopes should be on the highest level... Secondly, it is one of the cheapest methods. And, thirdly, it is also environmentally friendly, because all the components of the solution are natural. The choice of the type of solution depends entirely on the location of the slopes and on the humidity of the room.

For better insulation, you can leave a small distance to the window frame, which will be sealed with silicone.

But if you do everything in good faith, without skipping a single step, the result will be excellent, the surface will be perfectly flat. In addition, it is this technology that makes it possible to apply very thin layers. But if you rush and do not complete at least one stage, then all the time and money will be wasted. For example, not paying enough attention to insulation, you will eventually see cracks at the junction between the slope and the frame, which will worsen thermal insulation properties... If you do not apply a grid, then horizontal cracks will go, which will greatly spoil the appearance of the room as a whole.

Do-it-yourself plastering of window slopes - instructions

We cannot underestimate the entire significance of the slopes, while we must remember that their properties completely depend on the quality of the selected materials and, of course, the work performed. From the foregoing, it is clear that it is time to present the information on how to properly plaster the slopes on the windows to the reader.

How to plaster the slopes of windows with your own hands - a step-by-step scheme

Step 1: preparation

First of all, it is necessary to fill in all the gaps; for this, polyurethane foam, felt or tow is used. The first one is much more convenient to use, but if you decide to fill all the gaps with the other listed materials in the old fashioned way, then they must be pre-treated with a 3% sodium fluoride solution. Since these heaters are literally hammered into the gaps, this can lead to deformation of the window frames, and in order to avoid such a turn of events, they must be wedged with wooden struts.

Also, be sure to remove all traces of dirt, dust, paint, etc. from the surface. After cleaning the walls, the depth of the seams is brickwork or there should be about 10 mm between the panel and the window. And in the case when it is necessary to apply a thick layer of mortar, this value can be more than 4 cm, and then you cannot do without a reinforcing mesh, which is attached by means of special plastic dowels. Also, on a very smooth surface, the solution will not adhere, because he will have nothing to catch on to, so it is necessary to make notches on such walls. Before you start plastering directly, you should thoroughly moisten the walls with water.

How to plaster a slope without resorting to the help of specialists, we will consider today in different options... To do this, you need to be careful and attentive, buy the goods necessary for the work.

You can also watch the video in this article, where you will understand everything in more detail. Instructions on the rules for choosing a mixture will be offered and the sequence of work will be determined.

Making slopes

For the main elements when creating a template, we will take window frame and the rule (with an emphasis on "and"), set in advance according to the level. The rule should perform 2 functional actions - play the role of a beacon and set a clear limitation of the slope surface to obtain an even outer angle.

Note: The rules for plastering slopes are the same for windows and doors. It does not matter. Doing the job is exactly the same.

Choosing a material

First of all, we decide how to plaster the slopes. First of all, it depends on what kind of environment you are staying in. Slope plaster can be done both indoors and outdoors.

So the first division is precisely on this basis:

Procedure for a 2 x 1.4 m window

If the plaster of the slope is carried out in a room with plastered walls, this facilitates the marking for further work. The video on how to plaster the slopes will show the most common size of the opening.

So:

Attach to window plane a triangle at the proposed joint with the slope, taking into account the width of the plaster layer, and draw a segment along the window sill at a right angle to the window line. If the window sill has not yet been installed, it must be temporarily replaced with an even piece of board or plywood.
Do the same manipulations on the other side of the window - you get 2 parallel segments.
Now, with the help of a square, draw a line of continuation of the wall along the length of the entire window sill - you will get 2 points of intersection with the first segments on the window sill.
From the obtained intersection points to the walls, set aside 1.5-2 cm and connect the new points with the initial ones. These lines will serve as a guide when creating the template.
Carefully cut the tape glued to the windowsill along the marking lines and remove the part that will be under the plaster.

Surface preparation

First of all, we need to prepare the base. There should be a completely empty, uncovered plane.

If there is plaster on the wall, then it is removed with a hammer and chisel;
After that, he does alignment, more on that below;
After this, a layer of primer is applied. This must be done without fail, then the adhesion of the surfaces will be of the highest quality.

Choosing a leveling compound

Alignment of slopes with plaster is done in the case when the layer of application of the solution is more than two cm.

In addition to plaster, to level the slopes, you will need a putty, which must be correctly selected:

Attention: Finishing plastering of slopes is done after leveling. For this, start should be used. Final finishing done by the finish line.

To work with external slopes, you need to order goods from the line of frost-resistant and waterproof mixtures, such compositions include any facade putty;
The composition of the mixture for internal work must correspond to the microclimate of the operated premises - in rooms with high humidity(bathrooms, kitchens, saunas) it is better to use polymer or cement putty, in dry - lime-gypsum or gypsum;
For the final sealing of corners after the installation of the protective profiles, the most suitable material there will be a finishing putty;

We must not forget about the choice of a suitable primer, which will prepare the base for further work... It is great if the primer contains antifungal additives to prevent mold.

Working with a rule

For vertical installation rules can be used different ways, the simplest of which is to put it on a ready-made window sill, fixing it on a plaster solution. In the absence of a window sill, you need to at least screw a self-tapping screw into the wall at its level, this will be the lowest point of support.

Attach the rule to the wall, set it vertically using a level, and fill the area between it and the slope with mortar.
Check verticality using laser level... Make sure that the solution is dense enough, otherwise the rule will "drain" to the side following the solution.
Now you can start cutting out a template for plastering from plywood. The main requirement is the alignment of its work plane with reference lines between the frame and the rule.
Once mortar mixture under the rule will harden, it's time to do the plaster. First, the surface of the slopes must be primed. Then apply the mortar with a spatula with a margin on the slopes, not reaching about 10 cm to the edges at the bottom and top. After that, by moving the template from bottom to top, remove the layer of excess plaster.
To obtain a smooth surface, it is recommended to work with a template not by pulling, but by zigzag movements (right-left), and periodically remove the solution adhering to the surface and again stretch the template, starting from the bottom.
When most of the excess solution is removed, you should walk the template several times (at least three) along the slope from bottom to top with straight movements, and then repeat the same steps, starting from the top. This is done for the final removal of excess solution, which after the first treatments can be quite significant.
The areas above and below, where it was impossible to work with a template, will be filled after the solution has hardened on the main plane, which usually takes about two hours. To remove excess solution from such hard-to-reach areas, a rule trim is usually used. It is difficult to get behind the plane of the frame with this improvised tool, but minor gaps can be repaired later using a trowel or spatula.

Removal of rules

When the slopes harden, the rules need to be removed immediately. This can be done by vigorously tapping on the rules. If, after removing the rules, it turns out that the surface of the slope protrudes beyond the wall, you need to get rid of the "influx" with a spatula or trowel edge.

It is advisable to do all this at once, in one day, since in a day the constriction of the influx will become more problematic. Do not be afraid to cut off an extra piece of plaster along the edge, because the corners of the slopes will be further formed by protective metal corners, which will make the edges of the slopes perfectly even.

Formation of the upper slope

It will take some skill to form the upper slope, since planting the rule on the plaster solution is not possible here. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the interference created by the vertical frames: in the places where they pass, the plaster strip will be interrupted.

But you should start preparing for the plastering of the upper slopes with the installation of the rule on the suspensions:

Fasten one hanger on both sides of the window just below the intended angle, set on hangers as a rule.
The mortar mass should not be applied over the entire area, but in parts, one section after another, waiting for the previous interval of the slope to grab.
If the window is 3-sectional and the plane of the arrangement of the sections occupies several different levels, you will have to remove the surface of the slope with narrow strips of plaster, starting from the sides and pulling out the remaining area after these strips have seized.
When the entire surface of the upper slope is leveled, you can remove the rule, unscrew the screws and cut off the excess plaster.

There is another method of plastering slopes with fixing rules, where the role of a template is played by a piece of a rule moving along specially mounted beacons. But this method is much more time consuming (for precisely measured installation of beacons), so few people use it.

Working with door slopes

Plastering door slopes is a less laborious process, since it is made out in a slightly different pattern and is not complicated by the presence of window sills and hinges. For example, you can imagine the opening is not an interior one, but front door which is already installed in the box.

The procedure here practically does not differ from work on window slopes:

Surfaces are primed, the solution is determined and the rule is established;
The mortar mixture is applied in the same way, with a margin, and the excess is removed using a template, not reaching 10 cm to the corners of the opening;
The remaining gaps are filled with plaster. after the previous layers have set;
The final grout is done from top to bottom.

To form a straight type of slopes (used to decorate arches), 2 rules are set along the edges of the arch, taking into account the removal of right angles. The plaster is applied between the rules and removed with another piece of the rule or a trowel, if it "fits" in width. Finally, the corners are formed with metal protective profiles.

What you need to know about corner protectors

For the final formation of perfectly even corners and increase the durability of the structure outer corners it is recommended to "sheathe" with protective corners.

These fixtures, called "corner protectors", are long perforated steel strips bent 90 degrees along their length. Perforation is made in the form of densely spaced holes on the steel sheet of the tape, which makes it possible for the plaster to penetrate into the "body" of the corner and ensure reliable adhesion to the adjacent surface.
Installation advantage corner profile is not only his protective function... Thanks to its well-formed right angle it is possible to make the angles of the slopes absolutely even, which is hardly achievable even with the high skill of an experienced plasterer.
The use of a protective corner greatly simplifies the work with drywall structures. As for protection, despite the increased flexibility of the perforated tape (with a strong impact on the corner, it can deform), the presence of a profile at the corners of the slope will prevent the plaster from chipping. It will not crumble, even if a dent appears in the corner from a strong blow.

What to look for when buying

DIY plastering slopes are made much easier with the help special tool... Everything is done by hand and it doesn't take much time.

Buying the product "protective angular profiles" for the design of slope corners, you need to choose high-quality and reliable products that can last more than one year, will not endlessly lag behind the wall and bend from any touch.

Attention: Counterfeits resembling foil products on modern construction market more than enough. Therefore, the most correct way out would be to order the goods from a reliable supplier who guarantees the quality of the products offered.

When everything you need is purchased and the slopes are plastered, you can start installing the protective profiles:

Prepare a plaster or putty mixture;
It is advisable to plant the profile on the putty, then the profiles protrude from common plane will be insignificant;
The putty must be kneaded by hand in a clean dish to ensure the homogeneity of the putty mass and the preservation of its quality;
Apply the mass evenly on the inner surface of the perforated corner and apply to the corner of the slope, pressing so that the rest of the putty squeezes out through the perforation holes;
Remove the excess putty that has come out of the perforation with a spatula and apply to the surface of the profile, rubbing the sides;
Check the angle with the rule, cover up the remaining cracks and other errors - if it is a tubercle, you can tap it with a spatula or a piece of the rule, if the dent - bend it with your hands;
After correcting all the shortcomings, you can proceed to installing the next corner.

Attention: At the end of the installation of the profiles, the entire structure is “coated” once or twice with putty until a perfectly smooth surface is obtained.

How to plaster the slopes video will help you do the job consistently and correctly. From the photo you can see individual moments, the most important is not in a hurry, the instructions must be followed consistently and correctly.

The slope is one of the main elements of the window or doorway... Without side surfaces, the entire structure can hardly be called complete. Firstly, incompleteness always looks unsightly, and secondly, slopes are additional protection against heat loss, which is very important for complex facade insulation.

You can save on energy consumption, and if you choose budget material, the benefits will be significant. - most cheap way finishes. All work can be done independently, for this you will need plastering material, tools and basic skills.

It is unfair to consider the method of plastering slopes hopelessly outdated. Modern technologies greatly facilitate finishing work and enable home craftsmen to do everything on their own. Difficulties when working with plaster mixtures are extremely rare.

This is a classic, one of the familiar materials that is easy to work with. If you follow the technology, you don't have to worry about the result. Plastered surfaces are durable, moisture resistant and environmentally friendly.

External slopes are designed in different ways. In addition to plaster for external decoration and insulation, they use:

metal;
drywall;
wood;
lime;
PVC panels;
stone.

These are the most popular materials, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. Plaster slopes are chosen by those who value durability and visual appeal. This material is time-tested and associated with reliability. Plus, in affordability, the cost of the arrangement will be minimal.

With proper conduct installation works the joints will remain invisible. The plaster solution fills all cracks and crevices, which ensures the integrity of the structure, high-quality sound absorption and waterproofing. This material is resistant to mechanical stress, easy to repair and renew. It can be painted, varnished, decorated with decorated elements.

How to choose a plaster and prepare the right mortar?

You can buy a mixture for plastering slopes. Suitable for outdoor use facade plaster... Following the instructions, dry mixes are diluted and applied to surfaces. Despite the inconvenience and efficiency of preparation ready-made solutions, many people prefer to make their own mixtures. Their quality depends on the observance of proportions and the choice of the right material.

For exterior decoration slopes are suitable frost-resistant and moisture-resistant, the best option - cement-sand mortar... It is cement that is the most durable among the binders for external slopes. The component composition provides excellent adhesion to the base. The integrity of the coating remains much longer than when using other mixtures. Construction gypsum and clay are inferior in many characteristics. They are sensitive to moisture, which can lead to deterioration of the coating.

The cement is diluted with water. Sand is most often used as a filler. The standard proportion is 1: 3, the consistency of "liquid sour cream" is considered ideal. Too thick mixture can cause surface cracking and weak watery solution will spread.

Grabbed cement-sand mixture after 15 minutes, hardens in 11-12 hours. If you do the plastering of slopes with your own hands and there is no experience in this matter, it is better to prepare the solution in small portions. The application process requires efficiency, you can simply not cope, as a result, the material will harden and be unusable.

Ideally, defects do not appear on a well-finished slope. The plaster should not flake off, peel off, crack, etc. If these phenomena are observed, additional costs will be required for restoration and sealing. In order to prevent marriage at work, we advise you first to study the instructions for using the material or consult with professionals.

External slope plastering technology

The construction of slopes is a laborious process. It will take patience, accuracy and attentiveness. When you start working on your own, consider three key points of proper plastering: a high-quality solution, competent application technology and professional grouting. Algorithm for finishing window and doorways is similar in many respects, all plastering work can be performed in 3 stages:

Leveling and cleaning surfaces

The bases must be clean. To do this, remove all dirt and external defects: protruding polyurethane foam, remnants of old plaster and paint, greasy stains... Cracks are carefully cleaned out. If you don't, the new layer will just fall off.

The original surface should not have lagging parts and irregularities. To avoid deviations, she is checked for vertical. With slight irregularities and the presence of voids, a leveling plaster layer is applied. For large deviations, you can use a wire mesh.

Application of the mixture

The plaster layer should not exceed 7 mm. Each next one is applied only when the previous one dries up. This is one of the main rules for plastering slopes. There are other nuances as well. The required thickness is marked with a pencil and. They serve as a guideline and allow you to achieve maximum evenness.

To improve adhesion, before starting work, the solution is made more liquid and distributed over the surface. This is done by throwing it onto a plane using a spatula. The solution should stick immediately and not run. The surface can be corrected small.

Finishing

After the solution has dried, the corners are corrected, the slopes themselves are rubbed and treated with a primer. The final design depends on preference. This can be painting, finishing with tiles, varnish, etc. The main thing at this stage is to wait until the solution is completely dry.

It is important to maintain consistency in this chain of actions. This is the only way to achieve a good result and enjoy the work done. Plastering the slopes will not take much time, and with the right approach, it will transform the facade and protect it from bad weather. Moreover, all this with minimal costs and labor costs.

Plastering is the most budget option arrangement of window slopes. This is not a difficult job, but, despite the extreme simplicity of its implementation, it is also necessary to prepare for it.

In the absence of experience in conducting such events, for a start, it is recommended to practice plastering more simple surfaces type of ceiling and walls. Having mastered the basic subtleties of the process, you can independently plaster window slopes no worse than a qualified master.

Before starting work, prepare all the accessories necessary for its implementation. It is better to collect all the required elements in advance, so as not to be distracted in the future by looking for missing elements.

You will need:

When choosing a building level, pay attention to the length of the product - the tool should fit normally between the window sill and the lintel. At the same time, the level should not be too short either - it is simply inconvenient to work with such a tool. The optimal level is 100 cm.

Additionally, you may need various assistive devices, such as:

Before proceeding with finishing works, you have to perform several preparatory activities. Pay due attention to their implementation. The convenience and speed of further finishing and, in general, the quality of the finished coating directly depend on the correct preparation.

It is better if the window sill is installed before finishing. Otherwise, in the future you will have to close up the gaps that appear between the side window slopes and the mounted window sill.

First step... Provide reliable protection windowsill from damage and contamination with a solution. For protection, it will be enough to cover the product with plain thick cardboard or with suitable drywall scraps, if available.

Second step. Delete old plaster, paintwork and any kind of contamination from the surfaces of the opening, if any. The wall for laying the plaster must be clean and even, the presence of dust and any other contamination is unacceptable.

Step three. Close the glass unit plastic wrap... You just need to glue protective film to the double-glazed window with scotch tape.

Wrap handles, heaters and all other fittings with foil or thick paper.

Fourth step. If you find excess foam (it is assumed that all slots have already been blown out with this material after installing the window), carefully cut them off with a sharp knife.

Fifth step. Coat the surfaces of the opening with a deep penetrating primer. Such treatment will contribute to the improvement of adhesion (setting of the applied plaster solution to the surface to be finished).

When choosing a plaster, be guided, first of all, by the material for making the window opening. A specialist store consultant will help you choose the right mixture.

Sixth step. Equip a vapor barrier. To do this, glue the foam seal with a special film vapor barrier material, or cover it with a frost-resistant silicone sealant.

Apply the sealant to the previously cleaned and dried surface. Dispose of excess sealant immediately. It is very difficult to remove the cured product.

Without the internal vapor barrier of the foam seal, the foam will constantly get wet from the resulting condensation, lose its thermal insulation properties and collapse. In parallel with the foam, glasses and slopes will begin to get wet, a draft will appear in the room, etc.

Seventh step. Make a mala. You can buy it in finished form but making it yourself will save you some money.

Malka is an ordinary template used for plastering. Examine the window slopes. You will notice that they do not have a strictly even shape, but seem to expand slightly inward, due to which the window dawn is created. In order to qualitatively plaster such a surface, a bead is needed.

Video - Using Malka

For self-made the easiest way is to use sheet plywood. The finished template will have a width of about 150 mm and a length of 50-100 mm more length slope. A cut must be made on one side of the template. You will move the side with the cutout along the window slope, and the other side along the pre-assembled lighthouse.

As a result, the finished surface will be as flat as possible. Also, in the template, you need to make an additional cutout to pass the window hinges.

The manufacture of malka should be taken with full responsibility. The working surfaces of the template should be as smooth as possible.

Professional plaster painters use aluminum beads in their work. Such devices are usually made according to individual order, but also ready-made options can be found in specialized stores. In this moment, make a decision at your discretion.

Of course, the slopes can be plastered without a template, but in such a situation the angles are unlikely to be the same.

What do you need to know before getting started?

To make the work as easy as possible, and the finished coating is durable, beautiful and of high quality, remember and follow the following simple rules:

The procedure for plastering slopes

The process of finishing slopes with plaster does not differ significantly from plaster simple walls with an angle. However, as already noted, when finishing window slopes, it is strongly recommended to use a bevel.

First step. Determine the location of the slope angle.

Second step. Set the rule with a level at a certain angle and mark the position of the angle on the surface of the wall with a pencil.

Step three. Apply starter plaster to the surface to be finished. The bottom layer of plaster must be thick enough.

Fourth step. Press the template against the sash and slowly smooth the plaster off the slope. Your task is to get correct angle and a smooth slope without unevenness.

Fifth step. Remove the rule by slowly moving the tool along the slope.

Sixth step. After the bottom layer has dried, apply a finishing coat to the slopes. plaster mix... Pre-place special products called perforated corner on the corners of the slopes. Such elements should be fixed in a not yet dried starting layer of plaster, slightly pressing them into the coating. Thanks to these devices, additional protection of the edge from all kinds of damage will be provided.

After a while, use the ironer

Apply the finishing coat in the same order as the starting coat. Make the second layer thinner than the first.

Level the plaster until the finish is as flat and perfectly smooth as possible.

In the case of finishing the slopes of plastic window structures, a number of separate rules must be observed.

The work is carried out in the sequence described above. After the design of the slope in the still not dried plaster mortar, a small groove must be cut with a spatula. Make it between the frame of your window and the slope itself. A depression up to 0.5 cm wide will suffice. The finished cavity should be filled with silicone sealant.

PVC (the main material for the manufacture of the windows in question), especially if it is of low quality, expands noticeably when heated. In the heat, the plastic can expand so that cracks form at the junction points of the block with the slopes. The silicone sealant has an elastic structure and will not allow the above problem to appear.

Now you know how to cope with plastering slopes on your own. Follow the recommendations received and everything will definitely work out.

Happy work!