Installation of the door frame. Build the door frame interior door - step-by-step instruction

Buying doors in the store, we know the door block not fully prepared for installation, but an increased similarity of the children's designer for "skillful handles". It is quite explained why the loops are not inspired and the locks are not embedded, because it is unknown, in which of the parties the door will open. Boxes manufacturers are not assembled, as the dimensions and features of the occupant opening do not know exactly. Therefore, it is necessary to hire masters or independently construct this important part of the door block. And for this you need to clearly know how it is possible and you need to make a bar of a bar, how to assemble the door frame for the long-term service of interroom or input design.

What is the root "snag"?

The complexity of a number of operations to collect the frame-based frame for hanging the door is to the specifics of the production of marbles and in the conjunction of the components. A simple in the look of an inexperienced man in the street makes it difficult to have a preliminary excavation on profiled shoals and the crossbars of the future box.

Two box facilities boxes

You can docile them by completing the guilt:

• at an angle of 45º, for the implementation of which it is necessary for a good stouch with award, but much better, if you can freeze the surplus, it can be a permeable saw;
• at an angle of 90º, for the implementation of which it will require not only the fine-grained saw and accuracy of the performer, but also the knowledge of technological subtitles is essentially not too difficult.

To perform durable bumps of components, self-tapping screws are used with galvanized or "weighty" thickening connections. You can form spikes under both of the above corners. However, they are produced mainly perpendicular to the full thickness of the box bar, which is necessary to take into account when calculating and marking the length and width of the door frame-box.

Without a difference, the spikes of transverse frames of the box will enter the grooves horizontal or vice versa. If only the compounds were durable and unshakable, for which they are sometimes reinforced, an additional clogging of nails with zinc coating.

Form and dimensions of the design

The geometric parameters of the constructed box base are determined by two conditions:

• the width and length of the door canvase itself, to cover and support which this frame is intended;
• appointment and category of placed room.

Therefore, before the starting stage of the work, it is necessary to clearly determine where and how to install the door frame wishes the door to the door and opening in his personal property.

Depending on the purpose of the premises, the requirements for ventilation or isolation, which the door should provide. The entrance door to the bath and the door to the pair should not pass inside the cold and produce a fertile warm air outward. The washing department opposite needs additional ventilation so that the excess of the vaporization is spontaneously defeated, and the building materials did not start. Be sure to need additional ventilation in the boiler room, especially if gas equipment is installed there. What can be done:

• If you need to provide a barrier from heat leaks, for the construction of the door frame, you will need four bar, which, after the connection, turn into a closed rectangular frame. The door frame will consist of a preliminary and loop vertical bar, perters - the upper crossbar and the threshold connecting two vertical elements in the pairing zone with the floor surface. There is a 3x millimeter technological gap for the free movement of the door around the perimeter and the canvas around the perimeter.
• If a natural outflow of steam and contaminated air is required, the box is collected only from three parts, since instead of the impact of the aerodynamic processes, the threshold needs to make a gap of 15.0 - 20.0 mm. The door frame is reminded in such cases Literature P. Laid-laid gap in 3 mm passes only along vertical racks and perts.

Between the threshold and the newly laid outdoor coating, you need to leave a gap of 2-3 mm in case of thermal motion.

A closed box, naturally, above an unlocked counterpart, as it is increased due to the thickness of the thicketer. This nuance must be taken into account during the calculations so that the door canvas does not have to "shock", which is especially undesirable if it is covered with veneer.

Important. If you still have to cut over a veneered surface, start from the side with the finish and move to the side without decorative coating. So the veneer will suffer the least, the chips will be insignificant.

The sequence of the simplest assembly scheme

Milling or painstakingly choose the chisel the spikes with the grooves without experience there is not too many people, but for the perfect sawping on the diagonal not everyone stored equipment. Therefore, most homemade masters stop on the simplest scheme with a dusting elements at right angles.

Now find out how to properly assemble the door frame. It is more convenient to work, settling all the components at a single level in the horizontal. Most often, this happens on the lung cardboard or other soft material floor, less often on the two shifted tables, you can adapt four stuff.

Buying a timber separately from the web. Please note that the base for mounting the door in the opening should not be already than the canvas, and wider than the wall.

Order of work:

• On the equipped site, we decide the box of the front side of the face up, that is, the outwards. If the timber is wider than the canvas, we derive the plane of the door to a single level with a future box, laying down a book in soft binding. According to any of the chosen schemes, three standard elements are used first in operation: preliminary and looped jamb and upper cross.
• The top crossroads of the door frame installed in a brick or foam concrete opening is recommended to make a wider box to increase the bearing capacity. Usually it is 0.5 cm already opening. To search for points of attachment of vertical bars to it, the center of Podloki first find the center, then lay the equivalent distances in both directions.
• To form an equal to the entire perimeter of the gap between the web and a boxed timber, a cardboard is paved or the old linoleum cut into pieces.
• Denoticing the gaps, outlining the points of the cut, not scratching the surface. It is better to push the nail slightly. Pencil, especially sharpened, use experienced masters for marking, not recommended. It will not provide accuracy.
• Sculpt the crossbar according to the selected scheme.
• We note it is desirable a selection or sharp scalpel part of the preliminary profile that you need to remove so that the plane is formed at the junction site. Then "Sold" the marked area neatly the chisel or dipped. This is one of the most significant stages of the build of the box, not tolerant inattention and mistakes. A minor shortage in the length of the box bars will still cover the platband, and the propriferous protrusions will be visible poorly cut-free protrusions. Decided to cut? Take the cutting of metal and saw so that it is accidentally causing a veneer from the underlying plane. For insurance, it is better to close it with cardboard. After they did it on the depth of the protrusion, I consider the surplus by the chisel.
• In addition to lay down bars around the canvas with cardboard in the gap. With maximum accuracy, we mark the location of the loops. The standard is considered an indentation for the installation of a mounted 20 cm from the top and the bottom of the canvas. Without forgetting about the upper gap, put the point at a looping bar at a distance of 20.03 cm from the intersection of the perts and a jamb.
• I put on two screws on the loop map to the looping bruster and we note the scalpel or seed shape of the socket and the points of the holes under the self-tapping screw. Slowly scrupulously remove veneer or array to a depth equal to the thickness of the card.
• We will put the flags of the loops in the nest and secure them there with self-draws. The locking bar of the lock on the box is installed only after fastening the box in the opening and hanging the canvas, as there may be discrepancies.
• Return the looping bar on the place put it. Those thoroughly impose the perpendicularity of the elements to each other. Fresh the crossbar and racks by distributing two screws on the connection.

The thresholds are made in the same way as the priest.

Features of assembling boxes for wooden bath

Wood - Excellent building materials, differing from other not too pleasing owners with the ability to settle after the construction. Operactions in baths and houses from a log or bar should not be equipped in the next couple of years after the construction of the crowns. Moreover, it is necessary to find out how to properly install the door frame in the bar or log open.

There are 2 options here:

• If the width of the designed in the process of the construction of the opening corresponds to the project decision, in the end right in the middle cut into the groove and then clog the timber. It is to this brus that you can navigate the box, directly to the walls it is impossible, because they continue to "settle down" after the shock.
• If the opening is not formed, you need to cut the hole for the passage with the width, less projects into two thicknesses of a kind of comb. Boxed timber in such cases made with a groove.

In both embodiments, the box elements at the same time serve as a cunning of the crowns. Over the opening always leave the slot to protect against deformation during the shrinkage period.

What kind of ways to collect boxes take advantage, solve the owner yourself. Much depends on the specifics of operation and the properties of the building material. With the most significant moments and subtleties, which are not worth forgetting, we tried to familiarize themselves.

Each wizard faces the problem, as what is attached to the assembled doors. To install the finished door block, it is possible to apply different installation methods. Knowing, these installation options you can easily choose suitable for yourself. You will need a small tool set. This is a drill, a perforator, level, screwdriver and hammer. Also for directly fastening the box in the opening, you need fasteners and mounting foam. Depending where to fix the door unit, you may need a screw, dowel, anchor.

The main steps of installation of the door block

At the very beginning, dismantling the old door box. It is possible to implement it using a nail (rubbing), having previously done cut from two sides of each vertical bar to then squeeze this design from the opening. If, when installing the old box, anchor bolts were used, nails that it is not possible to unscrew them can be cut with "Bulgarian".

Before installing the box of interroom doors, it is necessary to check the verticals of the walls and take into account the drops of the level of the walls and the floor. The door frame must be positioned so that if irregularities are, the wall of the box does not deepen in the open. This is necessary for the adjustment of the doors. In order to competent location of the door frame, the construction level should be used and take into account all the errors of the day.

First, the installation is rigidly fixed in the opening to achieve the initial level of rigidity, use wedges. After completion of fixation work, it is worth re-checking the correctness of the location to the box to be smooth with the door.

Work with mounting foam

It is important to know the foam, which is designed under the gun, is much better and more convenient in work due to the fact that it is more dosed and has a small expansion coefficient, it is much faster. Foam, which is served with a pipe with a large amount, it will longer expand. Before starting work, it is better to close the door canvas with painting scotch and film, because it is difficult to wash the foam. It is important to know, the stupid needs to start with the fixation of individual small areas. After 30 minutes you can already go through the entire perimeter. All the cracks are foam (50% of the total volume). It is impossible to fill in a large number of foam, because during the expansion of the foam will squeeze the box inside. We recommend using professional foams.

Since the tree is compressed and expanded precisely because of the increased humidity consequence of the expansion, is the deformation of the door block. The door will simply stop closing for this reason.

Videos for possible ways to install doors

There are several ways to mount the door frame in the opening, each of which involves the use of a special type of fastening. Various mounting options provide a certain level of reliability and strength of the fixed design. We hope video stories by options for installing wooden doors boxes will help you.

Hidden way to install doors on the foam

The door frame is fixed in the goat is used for fixing wooden wedges, and the correct location is checked in the construction level. The foaming of the mounting foam should be produced gradually, sites and with interruptions to avoid deformation. Door box holds almost only one foam alone.

To save the gap between the box and the door itself, use small struts for 3 mm, which are inserted between the door and the box. They can be removed only when foam dry. Usually the door leave overnight.

This method is convenient if you do not need to go into the room, it is fast and does not require much effort. It is important not to overdo the foam to you can open the door.

Installation of doors using clamps or spacers

The principle of the installation is that we use inside for temporary mounting of the door block in the open space. It can be both ordinary wooden rivers and special adjustable devices.

These both ways are very good for lungs and small doors.

Mounting of doors using Knauff suspensions

For these purposes, direct suspensions of the company Knauf are better fit, which is used in suspended ceilings.

• Pre-screw the plates to the box.
• Insert the door in the opening.
• Adjust the level.
• We celebrate the place under the deepening in the wall.
• We make a sample under the plate.

After that, we set in terms of the level and fix the plates. For adjustment, we use twisted wooden bars.

It is also necessary to consider that at the same time the method of installation of the box on the outer part of the wall, the deepening place will be required to be hidden under the layer of plaster. That is why this method is good only when there is no finishing finish.

New installation options

This video will allow you to find out how to fix the door frame in the opening. This type of attachment is the installation of the interior door box, by putting on the box to the screwed heads of the screws, which are in the end of the opening. This occurs with a metal plate with a hole that are fastened from the outdoor side of the box.

To achieve the final fixation of the box in the doorway, conventional means of adjustment are used.

With this method, the stands of the door block are freely moving in the opening.

The clear advantage of this method is the complete possibility of adjustment and at the same time rigid fixation with the preservation of the initial type of box and the exterior wall decoration.

Secretive installation, fastening under loops

As a rule, screws or anchors are used for rigidity, which are hidden under loops. To do this, between the screws in the loop make a hole and fasten into the wall through it. From the castle under the decorative plate, another mount is fixed. As a result, we get 3 points of fixation.

After directly consolidation, we put the strut at the bottom of the doors, since the bottom is not fixed and fill all the gaps of the foam.

A significant plus of such a method is relative rigidity, saving appearance.

Fastening through in anchors or screws

This is the most common standard option for installing interroom doors. For this option, the mount, first the holes for the anchors in the right places of the racks are drilled, then the door is fixed in the open.

Preparation

• Marking of 4 anchors on each side.
• Drilling with a pen 14 mm to a depth of 10 mm (place under the plug).
• Drilling through hole 10 mm perom (place for fixation by anchor).

After that, the box is exhibited and 10mm brown concrete is drilled under the anchor. When the box stands on the anchors, it reliably holds and does not require any strut. Fastening locations can be hidden by setting the decorative plugs of the desired color, size (14 mm). Instead of anchors, you can use screws to reduce in the diameter of the plug. Application of this option is the most reliable for heavy doors. With it, you can align (pull) the rail curve. You can use the doors almost immediately. It is possible to regulate the gap. The minus is the presence of plugs.

Tricks when installing door sore

Conclusion

There are many options for installing the box of interroom doors, but it is worth choosing exactly the one that is the easiest, convenient and reliable or fastest. The choice can be done according to any method of mounting the door, but these methods can affect which opening is the installation, take into account the intensity and other factors.

Installation of the door frame from MDF is often considered as an alternative to the installation of natural wood products. In principle, both of these options have the right to exist: both wood, and composite on the basis of pressed fiber coping quite well with their duties, so that for most MDF designs it is quite suitable.

However, the technology of installation of such boxes has its own characteristics, and in the article I will tell about them, relying not only in the opinions of experts, but also on your own experience.

What is this design?

Features of the product

The door frame is a design from the profile that is installed in the opening and serves as the basis for fastening the door loops, the castle response plates and other elements. The main function of the box is to preserve the door shape for the free movement of the door leaf, so it is very important that the product has sufficient rigidity and stability.

Important!
Sometimes encouraging doors - structures that have a loop with the help of pins take off right in the opening.
However, such a decision is implemented only in the conditions of a shortage of free space, for example, with the arrangement of toilets and bathrooms in typical apartments.

A wooden bar is a standard material for the manufacture of boxes, but in recent times it is increasingly replaced by panels from MDF or composite options.

For them, this design is characteristic:

1. The basis of the product is the planks made of pressed cellulose fiber impregnated with adhesive composition. For this material, high density and significant homogeneity are characterized, which ensures the necessary strength and density.
2. In the manufacture of blanks for door frames, the plank is profiled. They are attached to the form required for dense fitting of the door canvase.
3. Decorative coating is applied to the surface of the materialwhich not only provides an attractive appearance product, but also protects the foundation from contact with moisture.

To date, the market contains door boxes with various types of coatings:

It is also worth noting that in addition to door boxes made only from MDF, there are prefabricated options: the basis of them is a wooden bar, which is attached to the stamped profile part.

I used such details several times, and I must admit: they are quite technological, and the composite structure really provides a balance between ease and mechanical strength.

Pros and cons

Installation of a door frame from MDF provides us with a number of advantages:

1. The material is somewhat lighter than natural wood, therefore it is easier to work with it, and the load on the supporting structures it has a smaller.

1. The homogeneous structure provides lack of bundles and cracks, while the fastening elements are kept in the MDF very well.
2. The use of various technologies allows you to simulate expensive wood species with minimal costs: so, the price of veneered, and even less laminated version under oak or wenge will be much lower than that of the product from the array.

There is such a solution and disadvantages:

1. Cheap panels from MDF with long-term contact with moisture will burst, which can lead to a change in the geometry of the doorway.
2. If you make a mistake and choose too thin door frame, then a hard canvas can provoke its deformation.
3. As I noted above, the decorative coating can be flawed from the base, therefore it is necessary to exploit the product quite carefully.

Tip!
Unlike products from MDF, the boxes made of natural wood are fairly easy to restore: an array can always be stamped, returning him the pristine beauty.
Well, almost pristine.

1. Finally, a minus is a more complex assembly of the MDF door box: the assembly of parts with a mechanical fastener should be carried out with a pre-drilling, then nails, and the self-tapping screws will not trigger the cracking of thin panels.

And yet, an extensive range of similar details and their available cost takes its own: even the doors of the premium class can be equipped with boxes from MDF, so we should figure out how to put them correctly.

Montaja technology

Tools and materials

Mounting technology of door frames from MDF is quite simple in order for even a novice master to implement the project with their own hands.

To work, we will need such tools:

• saw on MDF (hacksaw, saber or disc);
• perforator;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• level;
• plumb;
• roulette;
• a hammer;

In addition to the billets for the door frame, there will also be needed by other materials:

• anchor dowels with metal lily plastic sleeves;
• self-tapping screw;
• wooden bars for making wedges;
• self-insulating polyurethane foam.

In addition, a cement solution may be needed to restore the geometry of the extermination itself, but it must be determined on the spot.

Assembling boxes

So that the design is quite stable, we need to mount yourself without errors. How to assemble the door frame from MDF - I will tell you in this section.

The main requirement for the box in which the canvas will be located is rectangular. That is why we need to perform all operations on an ideally level stable surface - for example, on the floor, a closed tarpaulo or nonwoven material.

Work in this way:

1. Place the door canvas.
2. On the sides of the door, we have a blank for vertical stands of the box.
3. Cut the blank in height, leaving the gap of 2-3 mm at the top and 2-3 mm below the threshold.

Important!
If the presence of the threshold is not provided, then we make a gap from the floor about 12-13 mm: the slit at the bottom will not only provide ventilation, but also allow us to open the door, not clinging the floor covering, carpets, etc.

1. The top bar of the box is also cut by width, making the side gap is also about 3 mm.

This can be done in three ways:

1. The first technique - the connection to the thorn. It is the most time consuming, in addition, it requires a milling mill for it, but the strength of the docking increases at times. Before collecting the door frame from the MDF, on the ends of the parts cut the spikes and depressions, allowing you to adjust the planks close to each other. We collect the frame of the future door with glue, additionally enhancing the knot with self-draws, missed through.
2. The second way of installation is docking at an angle. The connecting MDF panels are put in the stubborn and cut under 450. We apply the parts to each other, we fit, cutting off the thin layers of the material with a dummy knife, after which we fasten the screws, screwing them down also at an angle. You can stick to the joint too, but the glue here plays auxiliary role.

Tip!
As in the case of a thickened compound, it must be remembered that when attaching a vertical and horizontal part, linear dimensions of the box will be reduced to the thickness of the panel.
Consequently, with primary fit, it is necessary to lay the necessary stock.

1. The easiest way to docile the details at right angle are easily. To do this, the horizontal bar is located on the ends of the vertical racks (if necessary, you can cut part of the protruding the protector), align and fix with one to two cross-cutting screws. In order to avoid cracking, MDF is to drill several holes using a drill, the diameter of which will be about 2 mm less than the diameter of the fastener.

After assembling the box, it is desirable to check the perpendicularity of its details.

Door hinges

I usually perform an operation according to such a scheme:

1. First I define the place of fastening the loops, given the direction of opening the door. To do this, either apply a web with already fixed loops and nano markup, or measuring 20 cm on top and bottom, and spend the lines in accordance with the width of the support plates.

Important!
For interior doors, two attachment points are enough, while three or even four loops may need for the input structure.

1. According to the outlined lines with a sharp knife, I make cuts to a depth of 2-3 mm.
2. Using an acute chisel and a joiner hammer, make a sample, the depth of which corresponds to the thickness of the loop support plate.
3. The bottom of the sample thoroughly align the rude skirt.
4. I apply a loop to the sample and nano on the box tag opposite each mounting hole.
5. Patterns drill starting nests, and then fix the loop with self-reversals, twisting them with a screwdriver and "reaching" the cross screwdriver.

Sometimes the doors are equipped with unsolved loops. In this case, the parts are installed on the canvas, and the box are attached at the time of hanging. However, I don't really like this design, so I prefer the classic option.

Installation of the box in the opening

The installation process itself takes a minimum of time - in any case, compared with the preparatory operations. There are several installation techniques, some of which involves the use of special steel suspensions.

I do something like this:

1. I clean the doorway from the protruding elements (old fasteners, the remains of plaster, etc.). If necessary, carry out its repair using a cement solution.
2. Insert the collected box in the opening and align the horizontally, vertical and plane.

Control of the correctness of the expression

1. Fill the clearance of self-seeping mounting foam, trying not to leave emptiness.
2. If necessary, then under the supporting plates of the loops and under the retissory plate of the lock, drill holes through which we spin several anchors that are rigidly fixing the box in the opening.



Important!
If the box at the box is made in the form of a removable strip, then in the groove for the roller, the holes with a step of about 40 cm and also perform the fixation.

1. I inspire the door on the loop, check whether they go freely, and close them to the full polymerization of foam.

In parallel with the installation of the door frame or after the completion of this operation, the installation of sustained slats is also possible - the so-called kindups. Together with the platbands, these elements will completely block the mounting clearance, disguising the fastener and a layer of heat-insulating material.



Conclusion

Assembling the door frame from MDF, as well as installing it in the doorway - this is not so much heavy as time-consuming processes. The result largely depends on the accuracy of the wizard and on the accounting of all the nuances, so before being taken for the saw, it is worth examining the video in this article. If the questions remain and after viewing - you can set them in the comments to the material.

The final stage of repair work in residential or commercial premises is the installation of interroom doors. High-quality assembly and installation of the box to the corresponding opening is the key to a reliable locking of the web, the correct operation of the main and auxiliary mechanisms.

The door frame is mounted in the wall opening, therefore the key part of the finished design, to which the web is attached to the loop. We'll figure it out how to assemble the door frame with your own hands without attracting third-party specialists, following a simple step-by-step instruction.

Select box sizes

Boxes for interior doors are made of reliable and practical materials - MDF, chipboard and wooden bars. The design of the box consists of several functional elements, so it is necessary to know the dimensions of all components for its installation.

The dimensions of the door frame of the interior door are determined by the wall thickness and dimensions of the door of the door:

• For the walls of bricks with a thickness of 7.5 cm - a box of 10.9 cm with a thickness;
• For walls made of wooden paving thickness up to 10 cm thick - a box of 12 cm thick.

The thickness of the door frame in foreign manufacturers may differ from the specified sizes, compiling:

• 8 cm;
• 10 cm;
• 12.5 cm;
• 14.5 cm;
• 18.5 cm;
• 20.5 cm.

The correct ratio of the parameters of the thickness of the box and the wall opening eliminates the occurrence of disorders at the future. With a wide wall and a narrow box, the finished design must be expanded with wooden planks or boards installed in special grooves.

The standard opening box is equipped with a special neck, the depth of which is equal to the thickness of the door canvas.

Modern models of interroom doors can have different dimensions, but the standard size is 80 cm. The width of the door frame is represented in two ranges:

• Height - 2 meters, width - from 60 to 80 cm;
• Height - 1.9 meters, width - from 55 to 90 cm.

Finished products are ordinary and profile, and the width of the standard elements can be from 1.5 to 4 cm.

Tools and materials for work

Installation of the door frame is carried out using the main toolkit and the necessary materials.

For work it will be necessary:

• Brux and wedges wooden.
• Electric milling cutter.
• Hoven, equipped with stupid.
• Screwdriver.
• Drill.
• Self-tapping screws, nails with small hats.
• Construction level.
• Mounting foam.
• Construction pencil.
• A knife with a thin sharp blade.

For installation work, the room should be dry and well-worn.

Box - frame-type design, consisting of vertical guides - loop and fictional jamb. Bar loop assumes the load of the installed door.

Preliminary installation work

The installation of interroom doors is carried out with their own hands after the end of work on the leveling of wall surfaces, installation of floor facing and other fines.

Finished slopes must be checked vertically in several places. If the difference is detected to 5 cm, the slopes are aligned. Similarly, the horizontal jumpers are checked. The technological gap of 15 mm should be observed between the outdoor surface and the door.

Competent assembly of the door frame determines the phased work:

1. Using the mill, small recesses are performed for loop connections in the door canvas. The distance from the edge of the canvas to the edge of the loops (from above and below) should be at least 18 cm.
2. Sucks are powered at an angle of 45 degrees. The surfaces are carefully cleaned and poured, applied to the canvas and marks are performed, where the loops on the jamb will be placed. Using the cutter, recesses the door hinges.
3. The finished loops are invested in the available recesses in the canvas, with the help of a drill holes for self-sustaining compounds. It is recommended to choose a drill, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the screws. At the end of the loops are fixed to the door canvas.

Installing handle and lock

The next stage of work is the fixation of the handle and the lock on the door, which is performed after installing the loops.

• The canvas are turned over in a horizontal direction and at a distance from 85 to 118 cm on the side opposite to the loops, the recess of the desired diameter is drilled to install the lock with the snap-in mechanism.
• The lock is inserted into the recess, the pencil is edged with the pencil. Using the cutter, another recess is performed for fastening the front plank with a valve.
• A valve is inserted into the cloth, and its housing must be located at the level of the door.
• Next, the pencil doors are applied for the recess for the handles that drill a drill.
• The locking latch is mounted into the recession from the end part and is fixed with self-draws.

At the end, the knobs on the screws and decorative overhead elements are installed using a simple hex key.

Full assembly and installation box in wall opening

At the final stage, a complete assembly of the door frame and the installation of it in the corresponding wall opening is performed.

• In the transverse box, the knife is trimmed under 45 a degrees. This will provide smooth and reliable docking of all elements. In this case, the width of the opening should exceed the dimensions of the door of the door by 6 mm.
• The drill is done by holes in angular type sections for the correct box connection. Many doors models that are equipped with platbands and slopes are equipped with special cuts and fasteners. In this case, there is no need to drill additional holes.
• Next, the slopes are neatly shortened in accordance with the size of the finished door, observing the technological gaps between the floor and the lower part of the door of 15 mm.
• All elements of the box are folded into the structure, having the shape of the letter P on the smooth surface and are securely connected by self-draws.
• In the grooves that are intended for mounting the hinge, a through hole is performed for fixing the collected box to the wall surface. The box is fixed at the top of the opening on a long self-tapping screw.
• The verticality of the stand arrangement to which the door loops is fixed is checked by a construction level. Correction is performed using wedges, driven into the groove between the rack and slope.
• A similar procedure is carried out with a second rack.
• The horizontal arrangement of the jumper design should be parallel to the floor surface. Correction is performed by wedges.
• After a complete check of the position of the box, the design is reliably fixed from the bottom on the self-tapping screw.
• Next, it is recommended to perform door hanging to check the correctness of the work.

Step-by-step instructions for the assembly and installation of the box involves another important stage - the paddling of the canvas.

The clutch hanging is performed using self-tapping screws, while the hinges reliably hide the fixing elements. With proper hanging, there should be no arbitrary opening / closing of the door.

After reliable fixation of the box and installation of the canvas, wooden wedges are removed from the technological gaps, and the existing gaps are filled with by mounting foam, having previously closed all the installed elements of the accessories of paint scotch.

Even a novice master in the presence of the necessary tools can perform its first installation of the door, whether it is an apartment, a house or a bath. The main thing is to comply with all stages of work and carefully check the correctness of the fixation of all structural elements.

Typically, the factory-execution door boxes are sold in the already collected form. In this case, the build of the door frame is not required. Only installation is carried out. If the product is purchased in parts, the assembly takes up a certain time and requires some professional skills, as well as tools. But in this case, it is easier to properly fit under the existing opening.

Installing the door frame with your own hands is not all under power, but when compliance with technology and accurately implement the basic rules and requirements is quite possible. And on how to collect the door frame is correctly described below.

Main stages of mountage

Now about how to install the door frame. The entire installation process is reduced to a whole complex of work, the main among which are:

• Perform measurements.
• Assembly.
• Installation loops.
• Installation, fixing and alignment of the block.
• Check functionality and door trim.

To do everything, not to do without the appropriate tool. You will need:

• Drill or perforator with a feathery drill.
• Roulette.
• Level, square.
• Hacksaw or jigsaw.
• Hammer, screwdriver, kiyanka, chisel, nails, dowels and self-tapping screws.
• Pencil.

Wooden bars, wedges and mounting foam will also need. Wedges can be made from any girlfriend. More often used wooden or trimming plates MDF.

Properly start mounting after dismantling the old log, clearing and strengthening the opening. It is necessary to make it thorough to avoid the subsequent need to further strengthen the opening.

Measures

To make the measurements of the opening accurately and correctly, you will need a good roulette. Specialists often use laser, eliminating the possibility of errors associated with the human factor.

First of all, the height and width of the opening are measured. Very often, its geometry is not perfect, especially in the houses of the old building. Therefore, dimensions are measured at several points.

The greatest value is selected for the sample - the box is selected on them. At the same time, the calculation takes the fact that the box should be less than the opening by 5-6 cm in all respects. Only in this case, you can make reliable installation to the wall - the gaps are needed to install the wedges and the mounting foam.

When the opening significantly exceeds the door in size, a metal framework can be made in the wall with the subsequent sheathing of plasterboard or MDF. Various types of kinds from a variety of materials are used, the most common of which is the same MDF.

Constructive parts

Door box consists of the following parts:

• Canvas. Most often in homemade structures use an array, chipboard or MDF.
• Vertical bars - 2 pieces.
• Horizontal bars - 1 or 2 pieces. All bars are made exclusively from a good natural board. Nizhny is not used and replaced by the threshold.
• Tubes - 3 pieces. These elements are usually manufactured from MDF.

The product is assembled in the opening and consolidate does not make much difficulty. The most important thing is to withstand the plane. The design is inserted into the opening and fixed by wedges, after which evenness is checked over all axes. This task is solved using a level and plumb. The position correction is carried out by the same wedges. Further installation is performed in the order described below.

Assembly

No matter how difficult this operation appeared, the build of the door frame is carried out in the following order:

• The elements of the design are declined on the floor and carefully inspect. Bruks of the factory production must have the grooves needed to connect the parts to one.
• The ends of the bars are cut at 45 degrees. You can not do this, but then the design will look rude.
• The composite parts are joined by the groove in the groove, after which the design is knocked down by the image and twisted with self-draws. If there are no grooves, the structural parts are connected by nails or screws. The bottom plank is practically not used, so it is not necessary to fix it. The blowing threshold is performed after the installation of the door.

If the connection of the perts and racks is performed at an angle of 90 degrees, the upper horizontal timber is superimposed on the rack of the desired size, and then fits or nailed to them with control in the corner. Extra pieces are cut off with hacksaw.

When using a thorough compound in neighboring bars, spikes are made, the thickness of which should be equal to the thickness of the bars. It is these "hysteries", horizontal and vertical strips of each other are connected.

The loops should be placed at an altitude of at least 20 cm from the cutting of the canvas. If the design has a solid mass, then you will need three loops, for example, for the door of the array. For the product from MDF there will be enough two.

At this stage you need to do the following:

• The box is placed on the floor and placed under the pockets of the loop.
• Then the sample is made under the loop. For this, a mill or chisel is used. Do not try to make the whole sample with one blow hammer on the chisel - you can spoil the material.

The depth of the standard landing should be about 2 mm. In the folded state of the loop should leave the gap between the web and the louting of no more than 4 mm. Calculation of the cutout depth must take into account the thickness of the loop and this parameter. To form the desired gap, it is recommended to put the cardboard between the web and the louting at the assembly stage.

• The loop on the log is installed with pins up.
• Next is applied to the web and the positions of the loop are noted at its end.
• On the canvase is made the same sample as on the racks. Although experts recommend to make a sample under the loop first on the canvas.
• The loop on the canvas and the box are screwed to the landing places. It is important to take into account that on the loop canvases should look down the pins down. Holes under the self-tapping screw are drilled in advance.

Installation

After the end of all the preparations, you can start. Installing the door frame with your own hands in the opening is performed with the helper. The design is pretty heavy and its installation requires a great physical force. The box assembly from MDF can be put alone.

The mounting of the door frame is carried out only for a tough basis.

• Lutka, in which holes are predetermined in advance, is inserted into the opening without canvas and is fixed with wooden clins around the perimeter. It is recommended to use more - up to 15 pieces. Holes in the side racks should be 7-8, and in the perts of at least three.
• In the lower part, a spacer plank is installed equal to the value of the peculiar.
• Next, with the help of changing the position of the wedges with the control of the plane on the plumb and the level, the exhibition is performed on the axes. This is the most responsible stage of work. If the box falls into a couple of millimeters, it will be visible. Moreover, the sash can cling the floor.
• Marks are made for future deepening in the wall under the dowel.

• The wall drill holes in which anchor bolts or dowels are inserted. The first are used when installing into a concrete, and the latter - in the opening of brick, shellucas or others relative to fragile and soft materials.
• Empties are filled with mounting foam. So that it does not fall on the visible parts of the design, they are closed with painting scotch. It must be remembered that the foam increases the volume half when contact with air.

It is necessary to work carefully not to damage the wooden elements. As a rule, a third of the slit space is first filled. Specialists recommend leaving wedges in the opening until the foam finally dries. That is, you can remove them in a day. The protruding remnants of dried foam are removed by a painting knife.

On the video you can familiarize yourself with the installation of the interroom door box:

• At the last stage, the canvas and the installation of platbands is carried out. Prints are fastened with self-drawing or planting glue. Equipping the design with a beautiful decorative threshold significantly increases its attractiveness. It is also screwed up with self-drawers or glued to the floor.

As you can see, nothing is supernatural or supervised. Of course, you need an eye meter, accuracy, patience and a good tool, but most of all - a strong desire. If there is no something, it is not necessary to take for installation. At best, you lose time. At worst - you have to correct errors at your own expense. Installation of the door frame often enters its cost, and experts will cope with this work in any case faster and better. Remember, the competent installation is the key to the long and reliable operation of the door design.