How to install plastic windows using plates. Plastic windows

Plastic windows have a well-deserved reputation for being functional, reliable, durable and aesthetic designs. They are becoming more and more popular and are confidently replacing wooden windows familiar to many people.

Plastic windows have gained a reputation for being strong, durable and reliable structures.

Their additional advantages include the fact that, with a strong desire, almost anyone can install plastic windows on their own. And this is a big plus, because for the installation, experts ask for quite a lot of money. In addition, having figured out how to install a plastic window, you will independently control the entire process and will be able to do everything in accordance with the technology.

How to determine the size of the future plastic window

Before ordering plastic windows, you need to figure out exactly what the structure should be. And this preparatory stage begins with taking measurements. When making measurements on your own, the home master should know that there are window openings without a quarter and with it. The measurement procedure for the two different types of openings will also differ.

Option with a quarter involves taking measurements in the following order. First you need to measure the opening between the quarters in the narrowest place and add 3-4 cm to the resulting value. This will be the width of the structure. Additionally, make sure that the certain width of the future plastic window exceeds the largest distance between the vertical quarters. To determine the height of the future window, measure the distance between the lower plane of the opening and the upper horizontal quarter. This will determine the value you need.

In the case when the installation of a plastic window is carried out in the opening without the above-mentioned quarter, to determine the appropriate size, it is simply necessary to subtract 5 cm from the height, and 3 cm from the width.

Additionally, determine what size the window sill and ebb should be if you plan to replace them. No complications should arise with this operation, you just need to take into account the following important factors.

When determining the width of the ebb, the future thermal insulation or cladding must be taken into account. According to the standards, the ebb should protrude from the vertical of the wall by 5-10 cm. The width of the window sill is calculated taking into account its future functional purpose. For example, if you want to plant potted flowers on it, it is better to order a wider design. In most cases, when selecting a window sill, the calculation is carried out so that the free part of this element overlaps the heating batteries.

The length of the window sill should be 8-10 cm longer than the width of the opening. The edges should be recessed into the slope cavity by at least 5 cm.

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Window ordering and preparation for work

At the next stage, you need to go along with the received measurements to a company specializing in the production of plastic windows. By the way, if you do not want to waste time measuring or doubt that you can do everything correctly, order this service from the same company. Most firms offer it free of charge, provided that the window is ordered from them.

In addition to the size of the window, you need to define the following parameters:

1. The number of chambers in a glass unit.
2. The number of cameras in the window profile.
3. Availability of fittings and necessary fasteners.

The consultant will tell you in detail about the features of each option. You can prepare in advance. So, if the winters in your region are not very cold, and the street outside the window is not very noisy, a window with two glass panes and a 60 mm wide profile will be quite enough. Further, already be guided by the peculiarities of the climate and the environment.

For self-installation of a plastic window, you will need the following:

To install windows, you will need: a hammer, drill, screwdriver, building level, etc.

1. A gun for polyurethane foam and the foam itself.
2. Drill with variable speed and perforation mode.
3. Small ax and hammer.
4. Scissors for metal.
5. A sharp knife, a clerical one will do.
6. Building level.
7. Chisel.
8. Grinder.
9. Nail puller.
10. Jigsaw. If not, you can use a fine-toothed hacksaw.
11. Putty knife.

Buy additionally from materials:

1. Multipurpose construction adhesive.
2. Wooden beam with a total length of 150-200 cm and dimensions of 2x4 cm.
3. Dowels.
4. Plastic corners and panels from the same material.
5. Self-tapping screws of different sizes. Usually 6x40, 2x16, 2x80 are used.
6. Solvents.
7. Mix for plaster.
8. Silicate glue.

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Dismantling the old window with your own hands

At the very initial stage of changing windows, it is necessary to dismantle the old window structure.

If windows have already been installed in the room, then before starting the installation of a new window, you need to get rid of the existing structure. If in the future you do not plan to install the old window anywhere, you can not try to be neat, but caution will not hurt. Do your best not to hurt yourself or drop the window out. The last rule is especially true for apartments in multi-storey buildings, because the window can fall on someone or damage someone else's property. And in a private house, glass cleaning will not give you any pleasure.

First, remove the opening vents and sashes. Remove all glass from the structure, having previously removed the retaining glazing beads. Take a grinder with a circle on concrete or a hacksaw. Using the tool, make cuts along the horizontal and vertical elements of the window frame.

Using an improvised tool - a pry bar, a crowbar, a hammer will do - remove the product from the opening. In some cases, when the owner wants to keep the old window, the structure can be taken out without deformation and damage. But this will take much more time and certain skills.

At this stage, both the external ebb and the window sill are dismantled. In conclusion, the window opening is thoroughly cleaned of dust and all kinds of construction debris.

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Step-by-step instructions for installing a plastic window

Gradually, you came to the main stage of work - installing a new window. This work requires careful and consistent implementation of a whole list of different activities.

First, the window is prepared for further installation. At this stage, you need to attach the mounting plates to the end of the top and side parts of the frame. In the future, it is thanks to them that the structure will be held in the required position. Quite often, installers replace the plates with suspensions, which are usually used when installing various plasterboard structures. But when installing a plastic window, it is much more advisable to use plates. They are stronger than suspensions.

The slats must be securely fixed to the end of the frame. When installing, the fasteners will have to fit into the body of the metal profile of the block. And this should be done in such a way that the glass unit does not deform. Fasteners are made using self-tapping screws. Select the diameter of these products taking into account the size of the window. Standard-sized structures are usually installed using self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4 mm. For larger blocks (from 2x2 m), it is best to use larger self-tapping screws - 5-6 mm in diameter.

The fastening of the anchor strips to the end of the frame should be carried out so that they are installed in 6-8 cm increments at a distance of 10-15 cm from the corners of the product.

After that, you need to correctly expose the prepared window structure. On the surface, this procedure may seem pretty straightforward, but take it seriously. It is best to enlist the help of an assistant at this stage. One of you will support the block and the other will align it.

Place the unit in the opening and adjust its position using the pre-prepared wedges. It is important to place the block strictly vertically and horizontally. At this stage, follow the recommendations:

1. Wedge the module not only from the bottom, but also from the sides.
2. Make sure that all vertical frame members are in the same plane.
3. If there is an impost, place wedges underneath as well.

Check that the unit is installed evenly with a spirit level. If there are even the slightest deviations, correct them. And only after that proceed to fixing the module. To do this, fix the anchor plates to the opening cavity using anchor bolts or dowels. It is important that the elements are fixed strictly to the enclosing structures. To do this, it may be necessary to remove the plaster layer where the anchor plates are attached.

After you have securely anchored the module, seal the seams with foam designed specifically for the job. It is important that the material is intended specifically for the installation of plastic windows. Please read the instructions carefully and make sure that it can be used in the humidity and temperature of the installation site of the module.

Moisten the joint surface with water before applying the foam. If you need to fill an area wider than 3 cm, do it in 2 stages with a half-hour break.

Today, the owners of houses and apartments are massively replacing old wooden windows with practical and durable PVC structures. And this choice is quite justified for a number of reasons:

1. Due to the increased thermal insulation, material costs for heating are significantly reduced.
2. High functionality and modern materials make it possible to refuse additional work on window maintenance: tinting frames to give them an aesthetic appearance; caulking gaps for window insulation for the winter; freeing the window from insulation in the spring; pulling gauze over the sash to protect against mosquitoes and other midges and other work that is involved in the operation of wooden window structures.
3. A sealed double-glazed window well insulates the room from noise, allowing you to maintain home comfort and preserving the peace of the owners.
4. The constructions have a long service life while maintaining impeccable functionality and aesthetic appearance.
5. The cost of a plastic window is lower than that of a similar wood product. For example, the price of an unpainted double wooden frame without glass measuring 120x90 cm is 3600 rubles, and a plastic window is 5500 rubles. However, a wooden window still needs to be glazed and painted, and this is an additional cost of time and materials. Whereas the plastic window is already ready for installation.

Those who are going to undertake the installation of plastic windows with their own hands often lack basic knowledge of how to do it correctly. Therefore, we present this article here in the form of instructions to help owners who want to complete the installation on their own.

The installation of plastic windows has a number of nuances. For example, PVC windows are not such universal designs. And their use has a number of limitations. So, it is not recommended to use plastic windows in cold rooms without heating (verandas, canopies, attics, garages, baths, etc.) By the way, companies for the production and installation of windows prefer not to talk about this. In addition, problems may arise when installing PVC window profiles in multi-storey buildings above the 4th floor.

Choosing a contractor to replace windows in the house, you may face the fact that the masters simply will not delve into the intricacies of this issue. There are only a few of those who are in control of the situation and can comprehensively illuminate it.

First, let's try to figure out the question, does it make any sense to install PVC windows with our own hands? Contrary to popular belief, the installation of windows is not so difficult. To perform it, you do not need to stock up on professional equipment and gain special experience for a long time. The installation procedure itself consists of two stages:

• dismantling of the old structure;
• installation of a new plastic window.

Dismantling usually takes from 0.5 to 1.5 hours. Directly installing the window (we take the middle window measuring 2x2 m) will take another couple of hours. It turns out that it will take a maximum of three and a half hours to replace one window. Consequently, for Saturday-Sunday, you can freely change at least 2 windows without resorting to the help of specialists. Considering that installers charge $ 40-60 for the installation of each window, we will get quite good savings. Some companies set the cost of installation as a percentage of the cost of the windows. This amount varies with different specialists and is about 10-40% of the price that is proposed to be paid for the windows. Also, when ordering windows from them, specialized companies can deliver a new structure to your home and dismantle it for free.

By entrusting the installation of windows to specialists, you can demand the following guarantees:

1. when buying windows from a third-party company, installers provide a guarantee only for the assembly seams and their filling, the correct geometry of individual elements and the functionality of the window structure for 1 year after the work performed. Since self-assembly practically deprives you of the guarantee for window structures, you need to be more careful when choosing products. It is better to prefer windows made at the factory, in compliance with all technical requirements and conditions. Handicraft products are a "pig in a poke", the quality and functionality of which can surprise you. In this regard, for the purchase of window structures, it is advisable to contact directly a production company that has been on the market for a long time and has good reviews from numerous customers. By the way, if you order windows in the winter or spring period (i.e. out of season), you can get a significant discount;
2. when purchasing windows from a company that carries out installation work, the customer receives a guarantee for the fittings - from a year to 5 years (the more expensive the windows, the longer the warranty period, as a rule);
3. if the windows are installed by hand, then a guarantee for the fittings must be required at the place of purchase of the structures. Responsibility for the high-quality execution of the seams will have to be taken entirely upon yourself.

DIY installation of pvc windows should be done if available:

• a couple of free days (as an option - a weekend);
• hard work and desire to learn something new;
• desire to save money.

If all of the above is present, then the recommendations set out in this article will allow you to successfully replace the windows in the house, doing it no worse than a professional installation team. Actually, a whole team is not required to install the window, two people will be enough, one of whom will carry out the installation, and the other will hold the structure and supply the necessary tools. Despite the apparent complexity, self-assembly of PVC windows is a rather simple process, which is a combination of several simple operations performed in a given sequence. Before proceeding with the installation, you need to order a window, and for this you need to correctly perform preliminary measurements. So…

Window measurements: everything you need to know

First, we determine the type of window opening.

It can be of two types: either with a quarter or without a quarter.

We measure the window without a quarter

A clean window opening is the easiest to measure. Such an opening is found only in a new house. We measure the opening itself in the vertical plane and subtract 5 centimeters from the resulting figure. We have the height. Of these 5 centimeters, 1.5 centimeters will be filled with foam in the upper part of the window, and 3.5 centimeters are laid for installing the window sill. Similarly, we measure the opening in the horizontal plane, subtract 3 centimeters for the gaps (1.5 cm each on the right and left) and get the width of the window.

Next, we measure the length and width of the low tide and the window sill. To the obtained dimensions, you need to add from 5 to 20 centimeters in order to "embed" the window sill a little into the wall from both sides. If you get down to business for the first time, then lay the size of the window sill more - during installation, all unnecessary will be cut off. As a rule, window sills and ebb tides have a uniform width (10-60 cm) and length (up to six meters). With minimal dimensions, installers will be able to select and deliver the most suitable parts.

We measure the window with a quarter

Width: we measure the opening in the horizontal plane between the quarters and add three centimeters to the resulting figure (one and a half centimeters from each side). Height: measure the distance from the bottom edge of the opening to the edge of the upper quarter. Nothing is required to add or subtract from the resulting figure.

The window sill and low tide are measured as in the first option.

As a result, after all the measurements made, we should write down:

• window height and width;
• length and width of the low tide;
• the length and width of the window sill.

When replacing old windows, the previous structure is located in the opening, which means that the opening itself cannot be measured. Therefore, it is necessary to take measurements from the window frame, which will subsequently be dismantled.

When ordering a window, try to find out what comes with the windows. The following elements are usually included:

• windowsill;
• end caps. To choose the right plugs, it is necessary to indicate the width of the window sill (protruding part from the wall);
• installation profile;
• anchor plates - structural fasteners.

If these parts are not included in the kit, you will have to purchase them additionally.

In addition to dimensions, other data may be required:

• profile view (number of cameras);
• double-glazed window option (number of glasses and air chambers);
• type of opening of window sashes. The most common: swing, swing-out with ventilation, combined. In addition, in some cases, blind windows are installed without the possibility of opening. The type of opening is determined by the fittings installed in the structure. Ease of use, functionality and durability of the window depend on the type and quality of the hardware components. There are several types of window opening. For convenient ventilation, the window must be equipped with swing-out fittings. Deaf options for ventilation are unsuitable for ventilation, conventional flaps without turning are inconvenient.

Thermal conductivity and sound insulation of the window: so that noise and cold do not get into the house

Thermal conductivity of plastic windows

In addition to the manufacturer, when choosing a window, it is necessary to take into account such quality as the thermal conductivity of the structure. According to SNiPs and territorial building codes, the heat transfer resistance coefficient of a window varies depending on the climatic conditions of the region of residence. Structures that are installed in residential premises should not have a heat transfer resistance lower than that indicated for a specific region of residence.

Thermal conductivity directly depends on the design and type of glass used in the glass unit. If you order windows with energy-saving glass, the thermal insulation of the structures increases by 10-15%. The cost of energy-saving glasses is about 250 rubles. for 1 sq. m.

The thermal conductivity of the window may decrease due to poor-quality installation, less often - a factory defect. Very often, in the process of an illiterate installation, a chip or crack occurs on a glass unit, and the structure loses one of its main qualities - tightness. Visually, this manifests itself as fogging of the inner surface of the glasses. As a result, in winter the room will become colder and the house will have to be heated more.

To improve the parameters of the thermal conductivity of the window, you can prepare the support profile. From the point of view of thermal conductivity, the support profile is the weakest point in the window structure. To fix the drain, it will have to be drilled, which will further worsen the thermal conductivity parameters. In order to normalize the heat-shielding qualities of the window, the inner volume of the support profile can be filled with polyurethane foam. This should be done the day before installing the window so that the foam completely solidifies. Foaming of the support profile is not provided for by GOST, window companies also do not practice this operation.

Soundproofing properties of plastic windows

This parameter is essential if there is a busy motorway or railway near the house. However, it is always more pleasant if outside noises from the street do not penetrate into the house. And this cannot be achieved without high-quality soundproofing of the window.

Methods for installing PVC windows: to unpack or not to unpack - that is the question!

When installing windows, you need to choose the type of installation - with unpacking (unpacking) or without unpacking. Do you want to understand how these two methods differ from each other? Take a look at the diagram of a plastic window.

• Frame- one of the main elements of the window. The frame is formed from a reinforced PVC profile and several sealed chambers. The number of cameras can vary from two or more.
• Double-glazed window- the largest window element, occupies about 80% of its area. It is a sealed glass structure. Depending on the number of glasses and air spaces between them, it can be single-chamber, double-chamber, etc. The double-glazed window fits snugly to the frame due to the seal.
• Glazing beads- details that allow the glass unit to be mechanically fixed to the frame.
• Impost- a divider, thanks to which the window is divided into several sashes. Distinguish between single-leaf, double-leaf, tricuspid, etc. constructions.
• Fixed sash- a leaf without an opening mechanism.
• Transom- opening sash.
• Window sill(other names - bottom, mounting, stand) profile- the supporting element of the window structure. It is necessary for the correct installation and fastening of the plastic window sill inside the room and the external drain.
• Fittings- all movable parts of the structure intended for opening, closing, fixing the transom when ventilating the room.

Unboxing window installation method

(in some regions the term "unpacking" is used, the essence is the same). This method is based on preliminary disassembly of the structure: glazing beads and double-glazed windows. After the through fastening of the frame to the wall, all removed elements are reinstalled.

To quickly and correctly unpack the structure, you need a strong knife or chisel. We insert a knife blade or chisel between the glazing bead and the frame, with gentle blows on the handle, knock the glazing bead out of the groove until a gap appears. Then we bend the knife (chisel) and push the elements apart with the wide side. We consistently do this with all the glazing beads that hold the glass unit in the sash. This procedure is not recommended with the sharp end of the knife, since the risk of damage to the window or glazing beads increases. To remove the glass unit, be sure to wear gloves, otherwise you will injure your hands on the sharp corners of the structure. If the window is not deaf and there are sashes, remove them. If there is a transom in one of the doors, it is easier to remove it all as an assembly without removing the glass unit. Everything, the structure is ready for installation.

Disadvantages of the method: more time consuming, takes longer than installation without unpacking (on average, 30-60 minutes are added for each window). Often in the window installed in this way, the glass unit fogs up. In addition, the appearance of glazing beads (scratches, chips) may be damaged if they are carelessly removed / installed. It is important to perform all actions clearly and carefully. After removing the packages, you need to put them in a safe place where there is no chance of accidentally hitting and breaking them.

Advantages and scope of the method: installation of windows with unpacking is more reliable and gives a firm fixation of the frame to the wall. This method should be chosen in the following cases:

- it is planned to mount windows in multi-storey buildings (from the 15th floor). When installing windows on the lower floors, where there is no wind and gusts of wind, they do not need to be unpacked;

- installation of constructions of significant dimensions is to be carried out. However, in this case, combined installation is allowed (the balcony block is attached without unpacking).

Window installation method without unpacking

This method does not require disassembly of the structure. That is, it is not required to remove double-glazed windows and glazing beads. The frame is fastened to the wall not with dowels, but with fasteners pre-installed outside the wall.

Advantages and scope of the method: installation of windows without unpacking saves time, minimizing the process. This method is recommended for use where there is no need for increased fastening strength: when replacing standard windows in private houses, as well as, as mentioned earlier, in multi-storey buildings below the 15th floor.

Installation of windows with and without unpacking: sequence, features, professional advice

Installation of plastic windows is specific, so this work requires a special set of tools and materials, without which it is almost impossible to install windows correctly and accurately. If you cannot buy the necessary things in a specialized store, you can contact a window company - the professionals will surely find what is missing.

• construction plumb line and level
• screwdriver and hammer drill
• drill with a set of drills
• gun and foam;
• hacksaw or jigsaw
• small crowbar or pry bar
• gun for silicone
• chisel or wide-bladed knife
• mounting wedges
• tape measure and pencil
• roll-up moisture-proof material
• sheets of iron (galvanized) and scissors for metal (required for self-production of plums)

The main stages of installing PVC windows:

• dismantling of the previous structure and window sill;
• preparation of a new window for installation;
• frame marking for subsequent fastening;
• fixing the fasteners to the frame;
• drawing holes for fasteners;
• leveling the plastic structure;
• fixing the structure in the opening;
• ebb installation (can be done at the end of the process);
• intermediate adjustment of fittings;
• foaming of cavities between the window opening and the frame;
• installation of a window sill;
• finishing fittings adjustment.

Each of the stages of installing a plastic window should be considered separately.

Dismantling of old window structures

Preliminary stage: preparing the window for installation

Windows with movable sashes are mounted closed. When installing a window in an open view, there is a risk of deformation of the structure (foam, which will fill the gap between the opening and the frame, can bend the frame). After foaming, the window is left for 12 hours, during which it must not be opened. And in order to avoid accidental opening of the sash, you can postpone the installation of the handle until the installation of the window is completed.

It is not recommended to remove the tape, which is glued to the surface of the window to protect it from damage, before the installation of the structure and finishing of the slopes is completed.

Sequence of installation of PVC windows

Fastening points on the frame

We retreat from the corner of the frame 5-15 centimeters and outline the place for the extreme fixing element. It is necessary to fasten the frame from 4 sides, the fasteners are located after 70-100 cm. If a support profile is used, then the frame is not attached from below.

Fixing the fasteners to the frame

Fasteners include self-tapping screws, anchor plates, U-shaped suspensions for drywall.

Anchor plates and hangers have the same cost - $ 0.05 (wholesale), $ 0.15 (retail). However, anchor plates are thicker than hangers. When buying, give preference to products made of thicker metal.

The fasteners must be firmly attached to the metal frame of the frame. In order for the element to be well fixed, self-tapping screws must be taken for metal. Such products have a drill at the end and a diameter of 4 mm. You can also use simple self-tapping screws, only in this case you need to first mark the holes in the frame with a drill.

Applying grooves for fasteners

We place the frame with the fasteners fixed on it in the window opening, then knock out the recesses in the opening in the corresponding places (depth 2 - 4 cm, width similar to the size of the fastener). Fasteners will later be sunk into these recesses. By completing this procedure, we will make it easier for ourselves to work on finishing the slopes.

Tip: when installing a window without a mounting strip, you should put blocks of wood or other dense material under it so that it rises to the height of the window sill. Then it will be possible to attach the window sill not to the window frame, but under it. With a mounting plate, the frame will automatically rise to the desired height. Usually the mounting strip is already fixed to the frame and does not need additional fixation.

Aligning to the level of the window structure

This stage is the longest in the entire window installation procedure. However, by aligning the window in the vertical and horizontal planes, we automatically give it the correct rectangular shape. To level the structure, you need wooden wedges or blocks that are placed under the frame. A pair of lower wedges is set first, and you can immediately fix the window from above with an anchor plate. Next, we set two wedges at the top, then left and right at the bottom and top of the window. If there is an impost, you also need to put a wedge under it. During these actions, it is important to ensure that the vertical posts do not deflect to another plane. It is convenient to align the window with two people, when one supports the structure, the second inserts wedges.

Fastening the window to the opening

Having achieved a perfectly flat position of the window, i.e. having set it correctly in level, we can proceed to fastening the structure. To do this, use dowels (diameter 6-8 mm, length 75-80 mm) or anchors (diameter 6-8 mm). The latter have a higher cost, but provide a more reliable fixation. They are recommended for use if the wall consists of shell rock, brick or foam concrete. Fastening on anchor plates is used if the block structure contains a thermal insert and the frame cannot be mechanically fastened in the mounting plane. The dowel, driven into concrete, is able to withstand a load of up to 60 kg, which is quite enough to fix the window. For wooden walls, you can use screws with a diameter of eight millimeters.

Advice: do not immediately tighten the screws on the sides of the frame completely, leave 1 cm all the way. The frame will not go anywhere, and you will have the opportunity to check the uniformity of the clearances on the sides and, if necessary, move the frame to one side or the other. After the final attachment, this will be more difficult. If the uniformity of the gaps is satisfactory, the horizontal / vertical structure of the structure is maintained, you can fully fix the frame by screwing in the self-tapping screws from above and tightening the remaining screws on the sides. After that, it is worth checking the horizontal and vertical structure of the structure again.

Fastening the ebb of a plastic window

Ebb installation can be done at the very end. Ebb tide can be bought ready-made, or you can do it yourself. It is best to fix this element under the window - this will eliminate the penetration of water where it connects to the frame. Upon completion of the installation of the drain, the space between it and the profile is filled with foam. In the absence of the possibility of attaching the ebb tide under the frame, it is fixed directly to it, for which they use 9-mm self-tapping screws for metal.

Intermediate hardware adjustment

It is necessary to tighten or loosen the window hinges so that the sash moves silently and freely when opening and closing. An open sash should not slam shut by itself. Correctly adjusted hinges will keep it in position.

Moving, the sash "strikes" where the locking fittings are installed? Move this element slightly lower or higher.

Foaming gaps between the opening and the frame

It is important to fill in the gaps so that no voids remain. Large gaps (more than two centimeters) are foamed in several steps, the break between which is two hours. With this approach, there is no danger that the foam will deform the window when it expands. In addition, the consumption of polyurethane foam is saved, there are no surpluses that have to be cut off, and the quality of the assembly seam is improved.

Since the foam hardens under the influence of atmospheric moisture, a lack of moisture in the room can lead to poor-quality polymerization. To avoid this, you need to lightly spray the area between the window opening and the frame with water before foaming, and after filling the cavity, spray the surface of the foam itself with water. If the air temperature during installation does not exceed five degrees, then winter or all-season foam is used. In warmer weather, you can apply summer polyurethane foam.

After foam polymerization, it is necessary to protect it from ultraviolet radiation. This stage can be combined with the finishing of the slope. But if you do not want to do the slopes yet, or plan to do it later, then the foam must be closed immediately, since it quickly collapses due to exposure to direct sunlight. In this case, we prepare a cement-sand mortar at the rate of 1 part of cement and 2 parts of sand, or we dilute tile glue and cover the foam with any of these materials. In addition, you can purchase PSUL tape (vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing tape) at a hardware store and cover the polyurethane foam with it. However, the cost of the tape is quite high (from $ 3 per running meter), so the first options are used more often.

Installing a window sill

1. Pruning. Window sills have a standard length and width and have a good margin, both in length and in width. Before installation, the window sill is trimmed with a jigsaw, grinder or saw with small teeth.

2. Leveling. We move the window sill to the support profile and set it on a level using wooden blocks or other materials at hand.

We close the side sections of the window sill with end plates. It is better to glue the plugs to the ends with super glue.

Pressing lightly with your hand on the windowsill, we make sure that it does not sag. In some cases, the window sill is not installed evenly, but at a slight angle (no more than 3 degrees) "from the window". Thanks to this slope, possible condensation does not drain under the window.

Foam the cavity under the windowsill.

After foaming, put something heavy on the surface of the windowsill (you can use plastic water bottles, books for this purpose) and leave it in this form for 0.5 days.

If you do not press down the window sill with a load, then it will bend up under the influence of the foam.

3. One day is enough for the foam to completely harden. After that, its remnants, ugly sticking out of the gap under the windowsill, need to be cut off with a clerical knife.

4. If initially the window sill had irregularities, then during installation a gap may remain between its upper part and the frame. It is neatly filled with silicone. It should be borne in mind that this material has low biostability and can turn black from fungus. The gap will not appear if, in advance (before installation), the plates of galvanized iron in the shape of the letter "Z" are fixed on the window sill profile. In addition to the fact that these plates will allow you to firmly grind the window sill, they will simplify the task of aligning it.

Final adjustment of the window

At this stage, you can remove the protective tape from the window structure and finally screw on the handle. If the finishing of the slopes is postponed, then do not remove the tape until the end of all finishing work.

Possible errors when installing windows

We list here the mistakes that are often made when installing windows and can negatively affect the usability and service life of the structure:

1. Installation is carried out with glazing beads outward. This reduces the burglary resistance of the window, since in this case the glazing beads can be easily removed from the outside and the glass unit can be pulled out.
2. The window is poorly aligned, which makes it difficult to open and close.
3. The polyurethane foam is not protected from the rays of the sun, as a result of which it collapses.
4. Due to incorrect measurements or too low fastening of the window structure, the window sill cannot be placed under the frame and must be fixed directly to it.
5. The window structure is not fixed by any fastening elements and is held only by foam. Then cracks may appear on the slopes, since foaming is not a full-fledged fastening. Over time, it loses strength and the window becomes so mobile that it can fall out.

We hope that after reading the article, you will be able to successfully cope with the installation of PVC windows. And even if you decide to contact the installation organization, you will be able to understand and control this process at all stages.

Most homeowners choose plastic windows for installation, not only because of their excellent performance, but also because of the ease of installation. This process is uncomplicated due to the fact that the design provides for very easy fasteners in the device and additional parts, which are included in the complete set of the window. Many are interested in how professional installers install windows. With the most minimal skills in owning tools, any landlord is able to install such windows.

Of course, as with the installation of any structural element, when installing PVC windows, you will need to observe a number of features, certain actions. It is advisable to perform this kind of work with an assistant, even if he does not have any construction skills; when leveling the window, some difficulties may arise if you do this work alone. Correct execution of all the nuances of installation will help you to do the job accurately and save on labor of hired workers.

Measurements and calculations

Before purchasing windows, you should measure the openings - on the basis of these data, you will make an order to the workshop. When taking measurements, it is necessary to take into account whether they are with a quarter or not. For buildings made of foam concrete, openings with a quarter are characteristic, which greatly reduces heat loss. For an opening without a quarter, when ordering fiberglass windows, the length will be 5 cm less than the same parameter for the opening. From the value determined as the width of the opening, subtract 3 cm.Along the contour, gaps of 1.5 cm should be provided - they are necessary in order to carry out foaming. At the bottom, an additional 3.5 cm should be left for mounting the window sill. According to GOST, it is supposed to leave 2 cm around the perimeter.

To make the correct measurements for the opening with a quarter, measurements must be taken at the narrowest place. When ordering windows, add 3 cm to the measured width, the length does not change.

Most often, PVC window structures are not arranged in the middle of the opening, but by about 1/3 retreating in depth from the outer plane. But if you are going to install the structure yourself, the window can be slightly shifted at your discretion. To order ebb and window sills, you should definitely take into account these parameters. Add 5 cm to the width indicators, which are calculated for the intended location of the windows.

When determining the width of the future window sill, the battery must be taken into account - it should be approximately half closed by the window sill. Add another 2 cm - the window sill will need to be brought under the base of the window frame. You need to leave a margin along the length - at least 8 cm. But it will be much better if you add 15 cm - this allows you to cut the window sill more beautifully.

Plastic side caps are usually attached to the ebb and window sills. You should not refuse them, although some masters do just that.

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Window frame installation methods

The technology for installing PVC windows does not depend on how many internal chambers are in the metal-plastic profile, or on the number of chambers in the double-glazed windows. When developing an installation plan, the following points will need to be taken into account: the material from which the walls of the housing are made, and the dimensions of the window plastic structure. Depending on this, the method of fastening and the devices that will be used are determined.

Plastic window frames can be fixed in the opening using the following elements:

• using dowels, assembly anchors, which must be inserted into the walls through special through holes, which are made in the profile in advance;
• another option is special toothed plates, pressed into the profile, which are not inserted into the wall, but set "by a spur" and fixed with screws.

The more reliable of them is considered the 1st option. It is more often used in cases where it is necessary to carry out the installation of window systems of considerable size and weight. Window frames with through fastening quite well resist a variety of shock loads that can occur, for example, when operating PVC systems with sashes that open in different positions. Anchors passing through the plastic frames allow for more precise adjustment of the structure during installation both vertically and horizontally.

Those wishing to find out the method of correct installation of small PVC windows with blind glass units may be interested in fixing the structure using anchor plates. Fasteners will not spoil the exterior of the window - they are covered by slopes.

To install anchor plates in brick or concrete wall openings, it will be necessary to make recesses. If you do not do them, you will need to apply an extra leveling layer before installing the internal slopes.

Sometimes installers try to combine these 2 methods. Anchors are deepened into the walls through the bottom profile, that is, the base of the window structure and the sides of the frame, and the upper part is fixed with plates. If the installation of PVC windows is carried out in a bathhouse built of wood, the anchor plates should not be installed - they loosen during operation. In some cases, galvanized self-tapping screws are used instead of anchors.

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The nuances of installing plastic windows in wooden buildings

The installation process will be significantly influenced by the type of material from which the housing is built. For example, for walls made of hollow or solid bricks, foam concrete, the differences will only be in the depth at which the anchors are installed. But the openings in the walls made of logs or beams will require a special approach. Here you will need to take into account the installation method and choose the right time for this.

It is possible to install plastic windows into walls made of wooden building materials only a year after the construction of the house. It is even better to wait 2 years - during this time, the shrinkage process will enter the stage in which the subsequent operation will be longer and more reliable. In buildings made of laminated veneer lumber, the shrinkage period lasts the fastest.

Installation of a window should not be carried out immediately in the opening, as is sometimes done in villages.

A plastic window should be inserted exclusively into a wooden box, which will protect the window structure from skewing. The window block itself must be free from any damage, defects and rot are unacceptable. Before starting work, it should be treated with an antiseptic composition.

After the PVC windows are installed in place, the shrinkage of the log house does not end. True, it will not continue so intensively. In order for it not to inflict a crushing damage on plastic structures, it is recommended to leave a gap of 3-7 cm between the upper edge of the frame and the window frame.After the window is put in place, the gap is filled with jute insulation and covered with platbands on both sides.

There are no precise recommendations in the building codes as to what materials ebb and window sills should be installed in wooden houses. As a rule, standard ebbs are installed, which are ordered in one set with the window structure. Window sills can be made of wood or polymer. The bottom profile can be supported on a wooden sill, that is, it can be installed before the window is installed.

For those who are going to install windows with their own hands, but have no special experience in this matter, the following information may be useful. Since wood is good for moisture vapor, the technical qualities of the polyurethane foam used when installing the window are seriously reduced. So that the foam blown around the perimeter of the structure is not exposed to moisture and does not get wet, along the line on which it is applied, foil-clad polyethylene tape should be applied to the window block. This nuance is not specified in the standards, but experienced installers highly recommend not neglecting such equipment when installing a window.

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Standard installation methods for plastic windows

The technology of installing plastic window structures includes such a moment as the use of polyurethane foam. In addition to providing insulation, it will add additional rigidity to the connection between the opening and the frame. Thus, a layer of polyurethane foam obtained as a result of its polymerization simultaneously protects the opening and fixes the structure. To prevent the foam layer from losing its technical properties under the influence of unfavorable external influences, it is better to surround it with additional insulation.

As for when exactly to insert PVC windows, the decision is made by the homeowners. You can also find the opinion that it is better to install the installation not in the summer, but in the winter - in this case, all the flaws in the installation will appear immediately and can be corrected very quickly. When choosing polyurethane foam for work, pay attention to the information on the composition - it should indicate at what temperature you can work with this product. Foam curing will only occur at the temperature specified in its performance characteristics, therefore, do not use foam intended for use in extreme cold conditions for work in summer, and vice versa.

How to foaming can be found in the instructions that the manufacturer applies to specific products. Usually, they begin to foam from the bottom, gradually moving upward. Movements should be circular. In order to use less expensive material, it is better to blow out the foam in several steps, calculating segments of about 25-30 cm.

Foaming is best done with different densities to offset the dew point. In practice, it looks like this: they try to compact the outer layer of foam less than the layer facing inward. The foam should be poured along the perimeter of the window frame as evenly as possible, without gaps and voids.

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How to prepare a window opening for work?

To install PVC windows, preparatory work will be required before work. Before installation, any contamination should be completely removed from the window opening: dust, construction debris, particles of old paint. When performing work on their own, craftsmen should know that when installing a new plastic structure in a used wooden window frame, it is better to completely shave off the top layer. It is not reliable enough, it is better to remove it completely so as not to break the adhesion of the foam to the surface.

If the gap between the opening and the window frame does not exceed 4 cm, they are filled with foam only. With a greater width of the gaps, it is better to partially fill them with other materials, cheaper. These can be pieces of timber, drywall, polystyrene, brick fragments and other construction waste.

The advantages of installing plastic windows are not only operational characteristics, but also ease of installation. A simple process, facilitated by the presence of fasteners and additional parts in the factory configuration, the home craftsman will be able to master and implement himself. There are a number of nuances in it that dictate the scrupulous implementation of building regulations to an independent installer. You will need patience, accuracy and at least one person to be called to assistants. Then the installation of plastic windows with your own hands will be performed flawlessly and practically free of charge.

Video tutorial for independent builders

Preliminary measurements and calculations

Before buying a window, they traditionally measure the opening, taking into account whether it is with a quarter or without. Openings with a quarter are a characteristic detail of a foam concrete structure that significantly reduces heat loss.In an opening without a quarter, you need to order a window, the length of which will be 5 cm less than the equivalent parameter of the opening. From the value of the width, you need to cut out 3 cm. Gaps along the contour of 1.5 cm are needed for foaming, an additional 3.5 cm from the bottom are needed for the window sill. GOSTs recommend leaving 2.0 cm around the perimeter.

To arrange an opening with a quarter, measurements are taken at the narrowest place. Windows are ordered by adding 3 cm to the width, the length is not changed.

Windows are usually placed not in the middle of the opening, but retreating from the outer plane by 1/3 inward. But those who want to install a plastic window with their own hands may have options with an offset to either side. This circumstance must be taken into account when ordering window sills and external ebbs. To the width indicators of both elements calculated according to the location of the window, add 5 cm each.

The location of the battery also affects the calculation of the width of the sill. It should only cover half of the radiator. Plus 2 cm for an institution under the base of the window. The minimum stock in length is 8 cm, but it is better not to skimp and add 15 cm to cut this part beautifully.

Note. Side caps made of plastic are attached to the window sills and ebbs. Don't give up on them.

Frame attachment methods

The installation technology does not depend on the number of internal chambers in the metal-plastic profile, or on the number of chambers in the double-glazed windows. It depends on the material from which the walls of the building are erected, and on the dimensions of the window. On the basis of the listed prerequisites, the method and fixing devices are selected.

You can fix the plastic window structure:

• mounting anchors or dowels inserted into the walls through through holes drilled in the profile;
• special toothed plates that are pressed into the profile, they do not penetrate into the wall, but are installed by a spur and fastened with screws.

The first method is recognized as the most reliable. It is used mainly for the installation of large and heavy window systems. With a through fastening, the window will stably resist the numerous shock loads arising, for example, when operating windows with sashes that can be opened in two different positions. In addition, the anchors passing through the frame will allow you to more accurately adjust the vertical and horizontal lines of the mounted structure.

However, those who want to know how to properly install plastic windows of small dimensions with blind glass units should be interested in the method of fixing with anchor plates. They will not spoil the appearance of the window, since then they will be hidden under the slopes.

Advice. For the installation of anchor plates in a concrete or brick opening, it is advisable to make small indentations so that you do not have to apply an extra leveling layer before installing the internal slopes.

Builders often combine both methods. The anchors are buried in the walls through the side frame elements and through the bottom profile (window base), and the top is fixed only with plates. If the installation of plastic windows with your own hands is done in a wooden bath, anchor plates are rarely used, they can loosen. Instead of anchors, galvanized self-tapping screws are sometimes used.

Specificity of installation in a wooden structure

To a large extent, the type of building material affects the installation process. If for walls made of foam concrete, hollow or solid bricks, the differences are only in the size of the deepening of the anchors, then there is a special approach to openings in log cabins and in timber walls. It is necessary to take into account not only how, but also when it is better to install plastic windows in wooden openings, and even how to do it.

• It is possible to equip a wooden structure with plastic windows only after a year, preferably two years after the completion of construction. This significant break is necessary due to post-construction shrinkage. The smallest shrinkage period and its size in buildings made of laminated veneer lumber.
• Installation is not carried out directly in the opening. The window can only be inserted into a wooden box that protects the window structure from deformation. There should be no damage, defects or rot on the window block. Before starting work, it must be treated with an antiseptic.
• Shrinkage, however, is no longer so intense, will occur after the installation of windows and finishing. Taking this into account, a gap of 3-7 cm is left between the upper plane of the opening and the box. The size of the gap depends on the humidity and the category of materials used in construction. The gap after the installation of the window is filled with jute insulation and closed with platbands on both sides.

There are no specific guidelines in building codes regarding the material for ebb and window sills in wooden houses. Ebbs are usually used standard, attached to the window structure. The window sill can be either polymer or wooden. It is not forbidden for the bottom profile to rest directly on a wooden sill. That is, before editing, it may already be.

There is a nuance that is not specified in the regulations, but recommended by experienced builders to those who figure out how to properly insert plastic windows. Wood that is capable of permeating vapors will reduce the technical qualities of the polyurethane foam. In order for the foam "blown out" around the perimeter not to be moistened, it is advisable to equip the window block along the line of its application with foil-clad polyethylene foam tape.

Installation standards for plastic windows

A distinctive feature of the technology is the use of polyurethane foam, which gives rigidity to the frame-opening connection. The layer obtained as a result of foam polymerization simultaneously performs the function of insulation and additional fastening. In order for the specified element to maintain the required technical characteristics, the foamed layer is surrounded by insulating layers.

When it is better to insert a plastic window, the owner himself decides. Winter installation is often recommended due to the immediate manifestation of all flaws. When choosing a polyurethane foam, it is imperative to take into account at what values ​​of the atmospheric temperature the composition will harden better. Professional foam is advised to prefer, and to work with negative thermometer readings, you need to buy a specialized nozzle.

How to perform foaming is described in detail by the manufacturer in the instructions attached to the product. Foaming usually begins from the bottom, moving upward in a rotary-circular motion. To exclude overspending of expensive material, foam is blown in several steps in segments of 25-30 cm.

Advice. In order to shift the dew point, foaming is performed with an unequal density. The outward facing layer of foam is recommended to be made less dense than the inner layer. Along the perimeter, the foam must be blown out evenly, without voids and gaps.

Preparation of a window opening

There should be no dust, no debris, no paint residues in the opening - this is a prerequisite. For home craftsmen who want to know how to insert a plastic window into a wooden structure, you need to shave off the top "unreliable" layer if the installation will be carried out in a box that has already served. The foam adheres firmly to the top layer. If you suspect that it will peel off over time, it is better to eliminate it.

Advice. The gaps between the frame and the opening are filled only with foam, if the distance does not exceed the limit of 4 cm. If the gaps are larger, it is better to partially fill them with cheaper material: plasterboard, pieces of timber, foam, brick, etc.

Preparation of a plastic window

• First, release the frame from the sash by pulling out the pin inserted into the upper hinge. You need to pick it up carefully from below with pliers and a screwdriver. Then, slightly lifting, remove the sash from the lower hinge. Double-glazed windows are removed from the blind windows, having previously removed the longitudinal and then transverse glazing beads. To remove the glazing beads, a knife with the thickened side or a spatula is carefully inserted into the gap and slowly shifted, being careful not to damage the glass.

Note. It is possible to insert a plastic window of small dimensions using mounting plates without removing the sashes or double-glazed windows. If possible, it is not necessary to violate the integrity of the factory design.

• Lean the glass unit or sash at an angle against the wall, placing it on a flat surface covered with cardboard or some soft material.

Attention. You cannot lay flat! Put with a bias too. The smallest pebble under the base will cause a crack to appear.

• Remove the protective film from the outside of the frame. If you do not remove it now, then it will be much more difficult to do and you will have to use a building hair dryer.
• Regardless of the type of fastening chosen, the places for its installation are marked. The step strongly recommended by the builders is 40 cm (maybe a little less), a maximum of 70 cm is allowed by GOSTs. The standards for the distance from the corners and from the impost are 15 cm.If mounting plates are used, they are fixed to the frame in advance with self-tapping screws. Holes are made for anchor bolts or long self-tapping screws, placing a drill for metal on the outside of the frame.

Most of the video tutorials teaching how to install a plastic window yourself dictate fixing the PSUL protective tape before installation. However, craftsmen, faced with its sticky "inconvenience", convince that it is wiser to attach it after installation.

Installation process itself

• Insert the frame into the opening, placing special plastic corners or small blocks around the perimeter to provide a technological gap. Slightly moving these spacer wedges, align the frame horizontally and vertically with equal lateral clearances.

Advice. It is advisable to place the spacers near the attachment point with a self-tapping screw or anchor. They will protect the frame from deformation.

• Since the installation of pvc windows with your own hands can be carried out using different fasteners, differences appear at this stage.
  • Immediately screw the self-tapping screw into the opening of the wooden house through the holes in the frame. It is not necessary to screw it in all the way.
  • On walls made of foam concrete or brick, mark the points through the holes in the frame, then remove the frame, drill the holes with the appropriate drill for the material. Then return the frame to its place, "attach" the fasteners.
  • There will be no need for double manipulations with the frame when mounting on anchor plates. They should simply be bent so that they adjoin the place intended for their fastening.

• The final fastening is carried out after checking the contours and verticals with a spirit level and a plumb line. It is impossible to persist with tightening, so that the frame does not begin to bend in a barrel-like manner. Finish screwing as soon as the bonnet is level with the frame. Installers advise leaving 1 mm above the surface.
• Return the dismantled parts in the reverse order and check the functionality of the structure.
• Fill the gaps with foam. Cover the outside and inside of the foamed seams with protective tapes. Outside, the insulating tape must be "sunk" into
• Fill the gap under the drain with foam. Install it with a slope from the window, attach it with self-tapping screws to the bottom profile.
• After the foam has polymerized, a window sill must be installed. The plastic version is 2 cm under the clover. To create a slight slope from the window, the space under the windowsill can also be foamed.
• It is advisable to make the slopes on the day of installation. The maximum break is 3 days after installation.

After completing all operations for 16 hours, it is not advised to use the windows, so as not to violate the integrity of the assembly seams. Knowing how to install a plastic window is necessary not only for skilled owners. If the owner of suburban estates decides to order the services of a little-known team of installers, he also needs to study the specifics of installation in advance.

The technology for installing plastic windows in a brick house differs from the rules for installing PVC profile products in concrete or panel walls. It is important to understand these differences before starting installation work and avoid mistakes.

Installation of plastic windows requires a set of tools and consumables.
Plastic windows in a brick house can be installed on anchor plates or bolts. Their dimension depends on the depth of the quarters into which the product will be attached, as well as the quality of the brick from which the walls are laid. It can be gas silicate, foam concrete, etc.

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If the installation is carried out in a secondary housing stock, before installing the window, you must first remove the old frame from the opening. This will require:

• removing the flaps from the hinges;
• removal of the old;
• dismantling the window sill and low tide;
• removal of roofing felts and tow that were once used to insulate the opening;
• breaking off old plaster, if alignment of the opening geometry is necessary.

For dismantling, you need a small crowbar. If the frames are massive enough, then to facilitate the scrapping process, you can use a hand saw for wood or a jigsaw.
To drill holes for fasteners, you will need a perforator, and to attach the frame to the anchor, you will need a screwdriver. You will also need a construction knife with replaceable blades, a level, good quality construction foam and sealant guns.

What materials are needed for the installation of a plastic window?

Installation of plastic windows is a multi-stage process. At each stage it is necessary to use different consumables:

• mounting wedges;
• professional foam;
• PSUL or acrylic sealant;
• waterproofing tapes;
• anchor plates or bolts.
• cyacrine;
• sealant.

Mounting wedges are needed to level the level, if necessary, they are placed under the stand profile.
Polyurethane foam- insulating material for filling the assembly seam, i.e.

the space between the wall and the window frame. Professional pistol foam must correspond to the temperature regime of the season in which the installation of the plastic window is planned.
PSUL (pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape) is glued along the perimeter of the window frame and expands from the street side of the seam - from the edge of the frame in a quarter. In appearance it resembles gray foam rubber. If there are no quarters, a special acrylic sealant will be required.
A waterproofing tape made of membrane material is placed under the ebb for ventilation and to protect the bottom seam from moisture.
Sealant is necessary to fill the seams of the window sill abutment to the slopes and window frame.

How to fix a window in the opening?

The rules for installing plastic windows are explained in detail by GOST R 52749-2007 “Assembly window seams with vapor-permeable self-expanding tapes. Technical conditions ". This state standard prescribes, before starting to install a window in the opening, to stick the PSUL around its perimeter.
This self-expanding material is an independent mounting layer that cannot be covered with plaster, putty, or painted over. Otherwise, the insulating material will not perform its function.
When inserting the frame into the window opening, you should adhere to the tolerances. The deviation of the window frame in the horizontal and vertical planes should be no more than 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, but no more than 3 mm for the entire height of the window.

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The frame is attached to a brick wall according to the following rules:

• from the inner corner of the frame to the first fastening element vertically, the distance should not exceed 150-180 mm;
• from the impost to the fasteners horizontally, this distance is recommended at 120-180 mm;
• the arrangement of the anchors vertically - with a distance of 700 mm for white plastic windows and 600 mm for laminated profiles.
  

  The inserted block must be checked for deviation from the level and foamed around the perimeter.

Installation seam device

PSUL along the perimeter and foam insulation are only 2 parts of the three-layer filling of the assembly seam described by GOST.
After foaming the frame, it is necessary to remove the mounting wedges from under the support profile and fill the formed voids with foam. For better adhesion, the inner surface of the window opening can be moistened with a sprinkler before foaming.
Before installing the ebb from the outside, stick on a waterproof vapor-permeable tape. The ebb is screwed to the support profile with self-tapping screws. The edges of the low tide must be bent onto the outer slopes to avoid moisture ingress under it.
On the inside of the window along the perimeter (except for the lower horizontal part of the frame), a vapor barrier is glued, which provides an additional sealing layer for the assembly seam and isolates it from moisture. This tape is available in various widths and can be glued both under wet finishing of slopes (plaster) and dry (polystyrene or plastic slopes). They also produce universal tapes for slopes.
A vapor barrier is also installed under the window sill: full-butyl tape with a foil layer.

We collect the installed window

The frame installed in the opening and foamed around the perimeter must be assembled.

Double-glazed windows are inserted into deaf, non-opening parts. To seal (fix) the installed glass unit, you will need a medium-sized plexiglass hammer. Glazing beads are cut at an angle of 45 ° and inserted into the frame along the perimeter of the glass unit with some effort. In order for the glazing bead to finally snap into place, it must be slightly knocked out with a hammer.
If the window unit to be installed has opening sashes, it is necessary to hang them on the hinges. It is not difficult to cope with this task, since modern window fittings are very easy to operate.
But putting the sash back in place is not enough. Check its operability and, if necessary, adjust in the hinge part using a special adjusting key.

To check how accurately the plastic window is in level, you need to open the sash. If it does not close by inertia or open wider, then the unit is installed correctly.

We install the window sill and slopes

The installation of wooden windows, like plastic ones, cannot be considered complete if a window sill is not installed. The sill board snaps into place and attaches to the stand profile.
If voids under the window are detected during dismantling, you can fill them with insulation, for example, roll or tile, and then install the window sill.
For the final finishing of the opening, you need to understand how to properly install the slopes. They can be plastered or assembled from expanded polystyrene foam sandwich panels.
With the latter option, the panels are cut to size in place, taking into account the geometry of each slope. A U-shaped plastic profile is screwed to the frame close to the slopes, called in another way the starting one. A panel is inserted into it. The voids are foaming.
Foam is a polyurethane foam sealant that, due to its properties, takes a certain time to fully expand and harden. Typically 1 to 24 hours.
In the places where they adjoin the wall, the sandwich panels are closed with a decorative profile, most often of the F-shape.

The junction of the slopes and the frame to the window sill is silicone-sealed with a sealant.

Who to entrust the installation of the window?

Assembling a PVC profile window and installing a wooden window are not the same thing. The installation of windows in a brick house is associated with certain nuances. It is required to have on hand all the necessary tools, including adjusting keys for window fittings, as well as a stock of fasteners and special mounting tapes.

It is equally important to choose the right foam and sealant. As an alternative to the latter, you can use the so-called liquid plastic. This is a special adhesive sealant that hardens very quickly, but also creates a particularly strong sealed seam.

If you are not sure that you can cope with the installation yourself, it is better to resort to the help of specialists.

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