How to build a garden house. Do-it-yourself country house - a simple step-by-step instruction for stylish summer houses (75 photos)

The topic of this article is the construction of a garden house with your own hands. We have to get acquainted with the main points of the construction of a very specific structure - a frame house with insulated walls on a columnar foundation, covered with bituminous tiles.

Choice of design

Why did we choose this particular project?

Frame walls filled with insulation make it possible to provide effective thermal insulation at minimal cost... In addition, they will easily undergo minor deformation when.

Let's clarify: some alternative solutions (for example, sip panels) guarantee better insulation with greater structural rigidity.
However, when using them, the costs of building or rebuilding a garden house will increase significantly.

Columnar foundations again mean minimal costs with little excavation... All alternatives are more complicated and more expensive. Yes, this type of foundation has little bearing capacity; however, the mass of the frame structure is more than small.
Bituminous shingles, laid on a solid board, attracts by the complete absence of noise in rainy weather... Moreover: the shield under it will greatly simplify the thermal insulation work.

So let's get started.

Foundation

The construction of garden houses, like any other, begins with marking and laying the foundation.

Since the material for cladding the wall frame will be OSB (oriented strand board), which has standard dimensions of 2500x1200 mm, it will be logical to make the length of each wall a multiple of the smaller of its dimensions: 3.6, 4.8 meters, etc.

The maximum pitch between the support posts should not exceed 2 meters. This applies not only to the perimeter: the internal partitions must be supported by their own props.

After the position of the supports is marked, we proceed to their construction:

We tear off pits about 50x50 cm in size and at least half a meter deep.
We fill each of them with rubble. Backfill height - 20 cm.
We tamp the crushed stone by hand tamping.
We form a 10 cm thick concrete pad over the backfill. Concrete grade - M100. When self-mixing, you can focus on the following proportions of the materials constituting concrete (in terms of one cubic meter):

Strength grade	Cement М400, kg	Crushed stone, kg	Sand, kg	Water, l
M100	210	1080	870	210
M150	235	1080	855	210
M200	286	1080	795	210
M250	332	1080	750	215
M300	282	1080	705	220

We spread red brick columns in the size of a brick or one and a half on the cement mortar. In the middle of the column, a piece of 14-mm reinforcement is laid, on which we will anchor the grillage.

Please note: the height of the grillage (and, accordingly, of the pillars) must be at least +25 cm from the ground level.
The columns are displayed in the horizon due to the thickness of the seams.
From above, each pillar is waterproofed with two layers of roofing material.

Floor

Grillage

The grillage material is larch, wood, extremely resistant to decay. Section - 150 mm. The bar is drilled where it will sit on the anchor; in the corners, the grillage is connected to a half-tree.

Lags

They will be boards 50x150 mm with a pitch of 60 cm, placed on the edge.

The lag material in this case does not really matter: an inexpensive pine tree is quite suitable. Lags can be attached directly to the grillage beam with galvanized corners using galvanized self-tapping screws.

Warming

The construction of garden houses used for living in early spring and late autumn implies their insulation.

Among other things, the floor is to be insulated.

Cranial bars are stuffed along the bottom of the lag.
The flooring is laid on them from a board with a thickness of 20-25 mm.
Above - a layer of vapor barrier.
Then the space between the lags is filled with mineral wool.

A waterproofing film is laid on the logs.

The flooring is made of 40 mm grooved board after the construction of the frame.

Walls

Frame

Corner posts and top strapping are made of 100x100 mm timber; fastening - galvanized corners already familiar to us. At the time of the construction of the frame, the racks are reinforced with slopes; the structure will reach full rigidity after sheathing. Material for intermediate posts and crossbars - 50x100 board.

Attention: window and door openings are tied with a board around the entire perimeter.

Sheathing

Sheets of 12 mm OSB are fastened with galvanized self-tapping screws 51 - 55 mm long in increments of no more than 25 cm. The joints of the sheets should fall exclusively on the racks.

By the way: if you foam the joint before screwing in the screws, the walls will be noticeably warmer.

Warming

The vapor barrier is laid under the insulation from the side of the outer skin; its second layer closes the insulation from the inside after the mineral wool mats are installed between the posts. From the inside, they are sewn up later, in the process of interior decoration.

Roof and attic

The construction of a garden house with our own hands does not end with the construction of walls: we have to build a roof.

We put ceiling beams on top of the upper trim (50x100 boards, placed on the edge). We fasten them with corners. The step is the same 60 cm as for the racks.
We put on the corners of the rafters from the same board. We connect each pair of rafters with a horizontal jumper on a hairpin. For the temporary fastening of the rafter system, we again use jibs.

We construct the frames of the pediments with the strapping of the skylight windows and the entrance.
Sew up the roof (including gables) with 15 mm OSB sheets and cover it with a shingle backing.
We cover the floor of the attic on top of the previously laid vapor barrier with a board - edged or grooved, depending on whether the attic will be used.
We install mineral wool slabs between the ceiling beams and attach a vapor barrier from below with a stapler.
If it is necessary to insulate the attic, we do similar operations under the roof.
We cover the roof with bituminous tiles. The sheets are fastened with galvanized studs.

The direction of laying is from the overhangs to the ridge.

Interior decoration

The traditional instructions for the construction of frame houses are quite standard: the frame is sewn up with OSB both from the outside and from the inside, after which the owner must do the interior decoration.

Most of the plasters and paints do not adhere to the OSB surface; the price of specialized primers can plunge even an inveterate optimist into a deep depression.

We will simplify our life and use drywall for wall cladding from the inside. Since the step between the uprights is large enough, you will have to sheathe in two layers with overlapping seams. The pitch of the screws is 15-20 cm, their length is 50 mm; for the walls, sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm are used, for the ceiling - 9.5.

Useful: with two-layer sheathing, you can do without reinforcing the seams with a serpentine. Cracks can appear only with a serious deformation of the frame of the house.

Exterior decoration

It would be strange to build a house - garden or any other, and not decorate it from the outside. The simplest solution is to use vinyl siding; it is fastened along a 40 mm lathing required for ventilation of the space behind it. Do not forget: siding lengthens a lot in the summer heat, so its fastening should provide for the possibility of displacement of the slats.

Conclusion

Of course, we have described just one of the myriad of possible designs. For more information on how to build a garden house, the video in this article will offer. Good luck!

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Each of us dreams of a quiet and cozy country house where you can escape from the bustle of the city and just relax. Modern building technologies allow you to purchase a finished garden house or build it yourself. In this article, we will tell you how much it costs to build a garden house, what documents are required to put it into operation, and whether you can do without them.

Budget version of a country house made of plywood

Plywood garden house designs take less time to build than timber houses. Due to the use of large sheets of plywood for cladding a building, they are fastened much faster than wood. With knowledge of all the processes and the availability of the necessary materials, plywood garden houses are built in a week. In general, plywood is the simplest and most inexpensive material. In order to facilitate the construction process, experts suggest the following stages of construction. So how to build a plywood garden house:

foundation support devices;
frame erection;
erection of vertical rafter supports;
top and bottom cladding;
creating a rough floor using boards 20 cm thick or more;
the outer sheathing of the house with plywood, ordinary self-tapping screws are used as fasteners;
interior cladding of the house involves the use of plywood, drywall, chipboard or fiberboard;
for a comfortable stay inside the room, it should be insulated: a layer of mineral insulation is laid between the layers of the cladding;
installation of a finished floor using a laminate board or linoleum;
sheathing of rafters with plywood;
sheathing of plywood with roofing felt.

Important! You can move along the frame only after the concrete has completely frozen.

To give an attractive appearance, you can use siding or wooden paneling. Windows in the house can be installed from wood or any other material. The video shows how you can build a garden house with your own hands.

Building a house from a bar

The project of a garden house from a bar involves the use of a simple or profiled bar. Country houses from this material can be built both with the help of specialists and independently. The plan of a house from a bar allows you to build various structures. For example, you can make a log house with a veranda or terrace. Before building a house, you need to decide on the type of foundation. As a rule, for houses from a bar, a columnar or tape type of base is used. When designing a small summer cottage, a columnar foundation would be the best option; for large houses with an attic, it is better to use a strip foundation. The construction of the foundation begins with laying concrete slabs on a compacted layer of sand, and lowering it into the ground by 15 cm. When the foundation is ready, a layer of waterproofing from roofing material is laid on it. Next, the frame is arranged and laid on the base supports. Then we install the vertical supports. The photo shows the frame of a garden house from a bar

If you like houses with a veranda, the lower logs are extended to the required length and installed on additional supports. You can use a thick board for flooring. When the floor is ready, the walls are laid from a bar. A dowel is used to secure the joints, a new crown is laid after a layer of insulation. Insulation is necessary for each layer; jute or tow can be used as a material. Next, we equip the roof. To do this, we carry out the installation of rafters and braces. After everything is sheathed with roofing material, finishing work on the flooring is performed. Linoleum or plank is usually used as a coating. The next stage of construction will be the installation of windows and doors. From the outside, the house can be made more attractive with siding or clapboard. A house built from a bar is quite cheap and warm.

Layout of a garden house and its cost

The construction of a summer house assumes the presence of a small and simple building on the garden plot. As a rule, such houses are built in a small area, with one or two rooms, a kitchen, a bathroom, a stove (if any are provided for by the building project). The photo shows standard projects of suburban structures:

If you decide to build a garden house with your own hands, we advise you to choose a small house with dimensions of 4x6 or 6x6. The photo shows a 6x6 summer cottage

If you like space, you can take a 6x8 house project. The photo shows a project of a two-story garden house with a size of 6x8

Such projects can rightfully be considered quite comfortable, cozy and spacious for temporary residence with the whole family. But how much it costs to build a garden house will depend on the materials chosen and the attraction of additional strength. The average cost of an ordinary country house will cost:

the construction of the foundation on its own will cost $ 150, and with the involvement of specialists - $ 250;
interior decoration will cost $ 700;
a house with a frame, ready-made partitions, windows and doors can cost from 3,000 to 4,000 thousand dollars;

Paperwork

When the construction is over, you need to think about the documents. Any building must legally stand on a land plot, regardless of who built it by the garden partnership or you yourself. To obtain the right to property, the following documents are required:

get a building passport for building a land plot. Such a document is issued by the local architecture;
submit an application to the architectural and construction inspectorate with a notice of the start of construction;
conduct a technical inventory of the building, such work is performed by professional appraisers who have a special permit to perform such work;
submit a declaration of commissioning of the property;
assign the building its own postal address (addresses are assigned to residential and suburban buildings);
to pay a contribution for the development of infrastructure, as a rule, such contributions are made either by the partnership or by the owner of the house individually;
obtain from the state registration service a certificate of ownership of the building.

Of course, for a gardening partnership, such documents are drawn up faster, here the number of participants in the gardening society plays a role. In addition to the documents described above, there are also requirements for the building itself. The most expensive and difficult thing is to obtain a construction passport, because there is a fairly large number of norms and building rules governing the conditions of development. Common building requirements include:

the distance from your house to the next one should be 0.8 m;
the distance to the border of your site should be 1 m;
distance to the street - 3 m;
the distance of the house to utilities and networks is 3 m.

Expert advice! Do not settle for “fake documents”, this will only complicate the situation and lead to unnecessary waste.

As you can see, the construction of country houses is considered simple and affordable for everyone. To make your dream come true, you need to draw up documents and choose a building project.

The dream of many townspeople is a beautiful small house outside the city, where you can escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, hide from the heat, feel the pleasant freshness of the ground under your feet instead of hot asphalt. But just not everyone has these dreams come true, it seems that a country house is difficult, and expensive, and long. In fact, it is quite simple to build a country house with your own hands.

Planning space

Choosing a place for a future country house is not the time for hasty decisions, because there is not so much space. A well-thought-out competent layout will help to use every piece of land as efficiently as possible. Even though this is your land, you will have to fulfill a number of requirements, keeping the minimum distance:

from the street - 5 m
from the passage - 3 m
from the neighboring plot - 3 m

We do not consider the option with a lowland - water will accumulate there. Optimally - the highest place on the site in the northern (northwestern) part of it.

Projects of small country houses

Considering typical projects of country houses, it is easy to notice that the undisputed favorite is a one-story building with an attic. This is a time-tested version of a country house, while you can abandon the utility block, because inventory and household supplies can be stored in the attic.

A terrace can be attached to the house - in summer it can be used as a dining room. Two-storey country houses often get, without actually erecting a "clean" second floor, equipping instead of it attic... Then, on the first floor, you can plan the kitchen and living room, and the second floor - for the personal space (bedrooms) of the owners.

Advice! You can significantly save on the heating system - even at the most modest prices for the installation of a classic (boiler, pipes and radiators) accounts for 15-20% of the total budget. If you are building a small country house with your own hands, where you intend to live only during the "season" (late spring - early autumn), then to heat it in bad weather, you can do with electric or infrared heaters.

Prefabricated country houses - unpretentious, outwardly monotonous parallelepipeds with roof replaced architecturally interesting buildings, with an improved layout, one / two floors.

You buy a kind of construction kit, such a country house is easy to build, having only basic knowledge of construction. The main thing is that it already provides for all the systems - electrical wiring, ventilation, air conditioning, water supply. This will help avoid many mistakes made by beginners who decide to build a country house with their own hands.

A collapsible country house is designed for a long vacation with family or friends, it is larger in area, maybe one or two floors, with an improved layout. Such a house is equipped with a technical room, a kitchen, rest rooms and a bathroom, equipped with a heating, ventilation, air conditioning system, and supplied with electricity.

The house can be equipped with a water heater, sink, countertop, hinged shelves, shower cabin, the necessary plumbing. After installing such a country house, no additional repair work is required, it is completely ready for use.

Laying the foundation

The choice of the type of foundation is directly related to the choice of the material from which the house will be built, as well as the number of storeys. Light houses (from rounded wood, timber, frame houses and modular) can be erected on a columnar or screw foundation, heavy (brick, aerated concrete, stone, concrete blocks) and two-story houses will require laying a strip foundation (as an option - prefabricated, from reinforced concrete blocks) around the entire perimeter and under the load-bearing walls of the house.

It is important to know the depth of soil freezing - the foundation should be laid below this level, taking into account the level at which the groundwater lies.

In the basement part, it is required to equip waterproofing at the level of 0.2-0.5 m from the ground. If the soil is dry enough (sand), as a screed, you can make a cement-sand screed 2-4 cm thick. For wet soil on top of such a screed, roofing material will need to be laid - in two layers. Alternatively, roofing material can be glued onto a dry screed with hot mastic. Waterproofing is installed below the expected level of laying the floor beams.

Advice! In the plinth, in order to ensure ventilation of the subfloor, small holes are made, which are covered with a protective mesh.

A blind area is created around the basement, its width is at least 70 cm (it should protrude further than the eaves overhang), which has a slight slope directed from the walls of the house. For this, the top layer of the earth is removed, clay (sand) is poured, on top of it is a layer of gravel (gravel, broken brick) and poured with concrete (rolled up with asphalt).

Floor and walls

The flooring begins with laying the logs. To insulate the floor between the logs, a heater is laid, on top of which a vapor barrier is laid. It is attached to the lags with a stapler, the joints are glued with tape. Then the subfloor is laid, for which the unedged, cheapest board is used, after having pretreated it with a remedy for dampness and decay. And only then the final floor is spread. In a two-story house, the floor frames on the second floor are the ceiling beams of the first.

(19 estimates, average: 4,34 out of 5)

Today, building technologies offer the construction of garden houses not only from classical materials (log, cinder block, brick), but also to use plywood sheets, OSB, aerated concrete blocks, foam blocks, timber, etc. as the main building material.

But it is the plywood garden houses that have excellent soundproofing and thermal insulation characteristics, along with ease of work and inexpensive construction costs.

Another advantage of this construction is the ability to make a house out of plywood with your own hands. This allows you to significantly reduce the cost of attracting professional teams. But it should be borne in mind that garden houses made of timber and plywood have some disadvantages, for example, the vulnerability of the latter to aggressive actions of the external environment. Accordingly, additional measures must be taken to protect this building material, and this, in turn, increases costs.

Also, plywood is an unsafe building material for house residents in terms of intruders. Therefore, when building a garden house from a bar and plywood, external finishing work is required, for example, siding, which, in addition to decorating, also hides the main material used in construction from prying eyes.

Country houses are built using frame technology, which is gaining more and more popularity in many countries of the world. it is explained by its main advantages:

But the wood that is used for the construction of the house (boards for the roof sheathing, bars for the wall frame) must be dry, and the plywood sheets must have a minimum of chips at the edges. In addition, all wood materials are additionally subject to processing with special compounds that can provide the required fire safety, as well as protect against moisture.

Construction of a frame plywood house is possible divided into the following steps:

foundation construction;
wall frame construction and plywood cladding;
roofing device;
insulation;
finishing works (interior and exterior).

Gallery: garden house (25 photos)

Instruments

To build a house, you you will need the following tools:

Laying the foundation

A massive foundation for a frame small garden house is not required, but for this the house must be made with strict adherence to all technologies. Reinforced concrete foundation blocks, strip foundation with a depression, rammed piles - all these types of foundation are suitable for starting the construction of a frame house. Usually, a strip type of foundation is applied.

With significant differences in relief, it is best to use a pile foundation. This will make it possible to align the structure of the house and avoid distortions with minimal consumption of building materials and normal strength of the base.

Materials required to organize the foundation of a plywood house:

crushed stone, sand;
concrete (ready-made or its constituent elements: fine crushed stone, cement, sand);
floor ventilation pipe;
reinforcing bars.

Before starting construction, you need to independently mark the territory and use pegs and a rope to mark the boundaries of the future structure. It is best that the place where the house will be installed is leveled. A trench is dug along a given contour with a width no more than 60 cm with a depth of 70 cm... This depth is quite enough to provide the required reliability and strength for a frame house. The bottom of the trench is rammed, then covered with a layer of sand and tamped again.

Then a layer of fine gravel is poured and tamped. Such a pillow will evenly distribute the load and will be able to provide waterproofing of the lower base layer. To improve the density of the cushion, a small amount of water is used during tamping of crushed stone and sand. After that, you need to build a formwork, which can be made from boards, fixing them to each other with jumpers on nails. It is possible to prevent concrete leaks during the pouring of the foundation by using plywood sheets with a thickness of 7-8 mm as formwork.

After the foundation has dried and the formwork has been removed, these sheets can be used again. The height above ground level of the strip foundation must be approx 45-50 cm... To ensure that the formwork does not lose its shape during the pouring of concrete, the upper elements are interconnected by transverse strips.

The reinforcement is laid both across the formwork and along it. Moreover, it is necessary to leave the ends of the reinforcing rods above the level of the foundation for the subsequent fastening of the frame. In several sections, a pipe is inserted into the formwork, the length of which is equal to the width of the foundation. This creates sufficient ventilation for the floor.

Then the foundation is poured with a ready-made concrete composition or crushed stone, sand, cement are kneaded into proportions 2: 3: 1 with water... During pouring, you need to tamp the solution a little in order to prevent the appearance of voids. The surface must be smoothed with a trowel or a rule so that the top layer of the base is as even as possible. When the foundation has hardened (after approximately one week, taking into account the depth and weather conditions), further construction can begin.

Frame and cladding

Then, in order to build a country house out of plywood with your own hands, you need to assemble a frame. Frame construction is a step-by-step implementation of the following stages of work:

Warming

Do-it-yourself garden house insulation options.

Intra-wall

Foam fur coat

Polyfoam grade C25 and more used for exterior wall decoration.

The foam is fixed to cement glue, while the glue beacons can compensate for the unevenness of the wall surface. For additional fastening of the plates, plastic dowel-umbrellas are used.
On top of the foam, the same cement glue is applied with a wide spatula, then reinforcement is embedded in it - a glass mesh with a cell size of 3x3 mm and a density of at least 170 g / m2. The mesh is glued with 70-80 mm strips overlapping.
Then the mesh is covered with a layer of glue to hide its texture.

Subsequent finishing is at the discretion of the owner of the house. As a rule, the walls are finished with decorative plaster or painted with facade paint. Instead of foam, glued mineral wool slabs can be used. Moreover, they are much safer in terms of fire spread, however, they will cost much more.

Ventilated facade

If the vapor permeability of the walls is most important, then a ventilated facade is being made:

A crate is erected on the walls (using a galvanized profile or timber).
Mineral wool slabs are inserted into the spacer between the elements of the crate or under it with fixation with dowel-umbrellas.
From above, the insulation is closed with a windproof membrane.
After the facade is sewn up along the crate with siding.

Roof

For frame houses, lightweight materials are used to cover the roof: corrugated board or soft tiles.

To the top crate roof beams are attached, which are set according to the level and are additionally fixed with jibs. The step between the beams should be no more than a meter. Then they make the crate with boards. The distance between the planks will depend on the type of roofing material chosen. When soft tiles are used, the step between the sheathing boards is made small.

Then, when the lathing is done, you need to lay a waterproofing layer. For which roofing material is quite suitable, which is laid with an overlap, the joints are fastened perpendicular to the crate and the roofing material is laid.

Finishing

Since the main material for the construction of a frame house is plywood, then interior and exterior decoration necessary. Siding is best suited as an external finishing material, which does not heavily burden the walls of the house and is easy to install. The variety of textures and colors also speaks in its favor. In addition to siding, you can use wooden or plastic lining for external work.

For interior decoration, materials can be decorative plaster, wallpaper, paint, tile. But for applying certain finishes, you will need to install drywall sheets.

The presence of a garden house on a suburban area allows it to be used for permanent or temporary residence, storage of various accessories or a full-fledged reception of guests. He can also serve as a base room for the construction team in the case of the construction of a large cottage. And the most important thing is that you can do it yourself without involving specialists, you only need attention, patience and adherence to all recommendations.

Our step by step instructions We will divide the construction of a frame house into several stages:

It is worth noting that each stage of construction of a frame house deserves a separate article, in addition to everything, if you describe all the possible options for foundations, roofs, etc., you can get a whole book. In this regard, in order to improve readability, some steps in the construction are described in detail in separate articles, and here - only what concerns the features specifically frame house.

Step number 1: Preparatory work for the construction of a frame house

Preparatory work for the construction of any house is the same and includes:

Site preparation
House layout

Site preparation

First, you need to clear the site of vegetation, if not all, then at least the place where the house will be built. This will greatly facilitate the markup and make it more accurate.

If the building site has a large slope, then, depending on the type of foundation and desire, it can be pre-leveled horizontally using special equipment.

Attention! Do not neglect this procedure, spending 1-2 hours on clearing, in the future you will greatly facilitate your work, and measurements in the grass can be with a large error.

House layout

Layout is a very crucial stage, because the layout and evenness of the corners of the walls depend on it. If the markup is inaccurate, it will be very difficult to correct this error in the next steps.

The marking of the foundation of a frame house, as well as any other, as a rule, includes a preliminary arrangement of pegs (all external walls are marked), as well as a marking of all internal walls.

If you want to know how to correctly mark the foundation for a house with your own hands, and even so that all walls and corners are even and correspond to the project, I advise you to read my article about it. Given the large amount of information, I had to take it out separately.

Step number 2: Do-it-yourself foundation for a frame house

The huge advantage of a frame house is that almost any type of foundation is suitable for its construction. The only limitation is the type of soil on the site and your options.

It is worth saying that laying the foundation for a frame house with your own hands deserves separate topics of discussion and is included in separate articles. Moreover, there are several types of suitable foundations, and which one to choose is up to you.

Here I will tell you in a nutshell about suitable foundations for a frame house, and in what cases each of them is applied, as well as give links to a detailed description of them.

The most common type of foundation for a frame house is a screw-pile foundation. This is practically the simplest and cheapest option for such a house, especially since it is not difficult to install the pile-screw foundation with your own hands.

Such a foundation is suitable for almost any soil, except for rocky ones. Especially suitable for marshy soils, where dense soil is deep and other types are expensive.

In general, all the pros and cons of pile-screw foundations are discussed in another topic, which will help you decide on the choice of support for your home.

Shallow strip foundation

A shallow strip foundation is also used for construction quite often. This is due to the relatively low cost of laying it, as well as the possibility of using concrete floors in the house.

Such a foundation, due to its relative fragility, requires strict adherence to the laying technology.

As a rule, a shallow strip foundation is used in good soils, and is categorically contraindicated in soils with a very high level of groundwater and marshy soils.

Slab foundation for a frame house

Recently, the slab foundation is gaining more and more popularity for the construction of a frame house with your own hands. Despite its not small cost, it has obvious advantages, such as versatility, reliability, durability, and it can also be used as a rough floor in the house and not be spent on it separately.

Often, instead of the classic monolithic slab, a slab foundation with stiffeners is used. This allows you to save a little on the laying, and also strengthens the entire structure as a whole.

Step number 3: DIY frame house flooring

The floors in a frame house are not much different from the floors of other types of houses and can be wood or concrete. The choice depends entirely on the type of foundation, capabilities and desires.

In this step-by-step instruction, we will consider in detail only a wooden floor, concrete - in a nutshell, since it is used less often, and it is not possible to fit everything in one article.

Concrete floor device

It is worth noting that the concrete floor in a frame house is arranged, in cases of a slab foundation, or a strip foundation. With the slab, everything is clear - the slab itself will be the floor of the first floor.

But if the foundation is tape, the concrete floor is made of lightweight concrete, such as expanded clay concrete, for example.

Wooden floor device

Let's consider the device of a wooden floor using the example of a pile-screw foundation. For the tape, in principle, everything is done in the same way, with the exception of the lower strapping, it can be from a thinner beam. But first things first.

Tying the foundation of a frame house

The construction of a wooden floor begins with strapping the foundation. As a rule, the strapping is made of 150x150 or 150x200 timber, depending on the wall thickness and the distance between the piles. The greater the distance, the thicker the timber must be to avoid sagging.

The strapping is necessary, firstly, in order to give rigidity to the foundation, secondly, to evenly distribute the load on the foundation, and thirdly, it will serve as a support for the future floor of a frame house.

In order to easily carry out the strapping process with your own hands, we will divide it into several stages:

The beam is laid out along the perimeter of the foundation, the length of the walls and the diagonal are checked. At this stage, the final and accurate marking of the walls is carried out, according to the project. By the way, do not forget about waterproofing, which we put in the form of roofing material under the strapping.
The next step is to outline the joining points of the timber, they should be located on the pile, since these will be the weakest points that should not "hang". This applies to houses whose walls are longer than the purchased beams.
The beam is joined with a 20-30cm overlap, as shown in the photo. For this, the so-called "locks" are cut from the end.
The corners fit in much the same way. This is clearly visible in the photo.
The timber is attached to the foundation with bolts or studs. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes, both in the head of the foundation and in the beam itself. For the convenience of further installation, protruding parts - bolt heads or nuts with studs, must be deepened. The joints are additionally pierced with nails of 150 mm or 200 mm, depending on the size of the timber.
As soon as the perimeter is ready, we proceed to the final step - strapping the foundation under the inner walls of the frame house. This beam, to the already installed external one, is attached in the same way. For reinforcement, you can additionally use fastening metal corners.

When the strapping of the foundation of the frame house is ready, we proceed to the next stage of our instructions - the construction of the floor frame.

Floor frame in the house

It is worth noting that already at this stage, it is advisable to provide for all communications entering the house, such as water and sewerage. Electricity and gas can be supplied later, but if everything is foreseen in advance, there will be much fewer problems later.

The next step is to install the lag, on top of the harness. If the distance between the supports is about 4 meters, then it would be better to use a beam of 100x200mm or 100x150mm in size. You can use a board 50x200mm or 50x150mm, stitching them in two.

If the distance is less than 3 meters, you can use a board of 50x150mm or better 50x200mm.

Installation of a lag is a simple stage in assembling a frame house, but there are some nuances that must be provided for in this manual:

Do-it-yourself waterproofing and floor insulation of a frame house

It is worth noting that the waterproofing, as well as the vapor barrier, must be installed with an overlap, according to the instructions for the material, while excluding the ingress of moisture into the insulation, both from the outside and from the inside. And the insulation itself fits tightly, without cracks.

So we looked at the instructions for installing the floor of a frame house, now it's time to get down to the walls.

Step number 4: Arrangement of the walls of the frame house

The next step of our instructions there will be a do-it-yourself wall installation. Just as with the floor, we will fasten all the boards and beams with nails and (or) mounting metal corners, some fasteners can be made with pins.

It should be noted that almost the entire frame is assembled from a board measuring 50x150mm or 50x200mm, depending on the required wall thickness and the required insulation thickness.

Some people think that it would be better to install a timber in the corners of a frame house, but this is not entirely correct, and why - a little later, during the installation process, I will tell you about everything.

So, let's start assembling the frame of the walls of the future house.

For a better understanding and assimilation, we will divide our instructions on how to arrange the walls of a frame house into several stages:

Assembling the walls of a frame house. Windows and doors
Installation and fastening of walls vertically in place

Assembling the walls of a frame house with your own hands. Windows and doors

We will assemble the walls on the finished floor of the frame house, this is the most convenient option. But it must be borne in mind that in this case, it is necessary that all dimensions are accurate, so that the walls do not turn out to be longer or shorter than the already arranged floor.

To make it clear what I am talking about, first take a look at sectional wall of a frame house , and then I'll go over everything in order.

Now we will analyze step by step how to assemble all the walls of a frame house with our own hands:

First of all, we need to decide on the height of the ceiling in the house. Let's say that the height of the rough ceiling is 280cm. This means that the vertical racks of the frame walls should be 280-15 = 265cm. The diagram shows where 15 cm came from.
The distance between the uprights, as a rule, is chosen based on the width of the insulation sheet, as a rule, its width is 60 cm. If the insulation is on a cotton base, then the distance is made less by 2 cm, for a tighter contact.
The upper and lower boards of the wall are laid out on the floor and the places where the vertical racks will be nailed are marked. Then the racks themselves are laid out and pierced with 120-150mm nails. You can additionally fasten them with corners.
It is worth noting that each wall will be thinner by the thickness of the wall than the length of the floor. This can be clearly seen on the diagram.
If the length of the wall is longer than the length of the board, then the wall is assembled from several parts. This is also done in cases where there are few helpers, because the whole assembled wall will have a lot of weight.
As a rule, to give rigidity to the entire structure, jumpers are mounted between the posts. There are no hard rules on the number and frequency of installation, it all depends on the length and height of the walls, but usually they break through one or two per space between the racks. The second option is better and is visible in the photo, in the case when they break through one by one - they are mounted in a checkerboard pattern (one at the bottom, the next at the top). This can be done later, when the walls are installed. Most often, lintels are punched with the expectation that they will serve as a joint of plywood or osb-plates, depending on further work.
Window and door openings in the wall of a frame house are arranged as shown in the diagram.
This is how it looks "live".

The most common mistake when assembling the walls of a frame house is that many forget to take into account the thickness of the board when calculating, thus the wall is not as long as we would like.

Installing the walls in place

It is worth noting that when assembling the walls, it is necessary to use a cord, pulling it from one corner to another, otherwise, the corners will be even, but the walls will not.

Top rail and structural reinforcement

So, the frame of the walls is assembled, now you need to make the upper strapping from the same board as the walls.

The upper strapping is necessary, first of all, for a stronger adhesion of the corners, and also gives unity to all parts of the frame walls and distributes the load between them.

To do this, it is necessary to pierce the board with 120-150mm nails on top of the walls, along the entire perimeter, including internal load-bearing ones, so that all joints are overlapped with an overlap of at least 25-30 cm. Except for corners where the overlap will be equal to the wall thickness.

The next step in our instructions will be to strengthen the entire structure as a whole. There are several options, the most common is reinforcement with plywood or OSB board.

As a rule, by punching one side around the entire perimeter (internal or external) with OSB sheets, the frame of the house already becomes very rigid.

Internal partitions of a frame house

The device of internal partitions is almost no different from the device of external walls, except that they have softer requirements in terms of thickness and insulation.

Internal partitions, in contrast to external walls, can be made thinner. Everything here will depend on the preferences and comfort of soundproofing.
Insulation, inside the partitions, will serve, first of all, as a sound-absorbing material, rather than as thermal insulation.
Internal partitions are allowed to be insulated without waterproofing and vapor barrier materials.

These are all the main differences between internal walls and external ones, otherwise they are arranged in the same way.

Step 5: The roof of the frame house

The roof of a frame house is practically no different from the roof for other houses, be it concrete, brick or any other. I will even say more, the installation of a roof for a frame house will be less laborious than, for example, for a block or brick one, because its fastening to the walls will be much easier.

It is worth noting that the construction of a roof is a very responsible process, but if you do not have a complicated layout of the house, then it can be easily done with your own hands.

Building the roof of any house, including a frame house, is a very large topic, where there are many nuances. Firstly, there are many types of roofs, and it is not possible to describe everything in detail in one article. Well, and secondly, in order not to confuse you, I will probably transfer this topic to a separate article.

Step 6: Insulation of a frame house

So we got to the final stage of the construction of a frame house - its insulation. It is necessary to insulate everything - the floor, walls and ceiling.

You can read more about insulating a frame house with your own hands in another step-by-step instruction, here we will discuss only general points.

When choosing insulation for the walls of a frame house, it is necessary to take into account not only the characteristics of the insulation itself, but also the features of the tree, with which not all types of insulation will interact well.

Here is a small instruction on how to insulate a frame house with your own hands:

Outside, on top of OSB sheets, a special waterproofing membrane is stretched. Which side - should be in the instructions for it.
From the inside of the house, between the racks, insulation is laid, in several layers, depending on the requirements for the house and the thickness of the wall. Each layer is laid with an overlap on the joint of the previous one in order to avoid cold bridges.
The floor is insulated in the same way.
It is better to insulate the ceiling from the attic, after filling the vapor barrier film from below onto the ceiling beams and hemming them with a board or plywood.
After laying the insulation, it is necessary to fill a vapor barrier film on top of it, it will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside.
Depending on the needs and further finishing work, cladding material is stuffed on the walls over the film - a board or slats, but most often - OSB sheets, on top of which, in the future, finishing is carried out.

As you have already seen, there is a lot of text. But, I believe, all stages of construction were described in detail here. do-it-yourself frame house, in spite of the fact that some points were taken out in separate topics, but this is only for your convenience.

I hope that by following these step-by-step instructions, you will be able to acquire a warm, cozy and reliable home without much difficulty and at minimal cost.