How to make a plasterboard ceiling yourself. How to make a plasterboard ceiling without help

In this article we will try to explain in detail how facing is performed. Carefully reading with this material, you can easily collect any design of plasterboard plates.

Introduction

To begin with, you need to learn from which elements is suspended. Like any construction design, the drywall ceiling consists of a framework - frame and cladding (or aggregate) - plaster plaster Glk.

The frame is made of galvanized profile of different sizes and sections. The design is very easy and practically does not have a special pressure overlap plates.

Below is a list of component parts and materials of the suspended plasterboard ceiling:

Sheets of plasterboard ceiling
Profile Guide Warmed Ud-27
Profile ceiling carrier CD-60
Suspension straight P-shaped
Connector for profile Conduct (crab)
Direct connector for profile
Dowel plastic and screws (Rapid installation is recommended 6 x 40 mm)
Self-tapping screws with a drill of 12 mm (seeds)
Self-tapping screws 25 mm for mounting drywall to frame

Thickness 9.5 mm. They are lungs and simplify the process of assembling the construction of the entire ceiling. The following materials will be needed for putting the ceiling:

Self-adhesive mesh (sulfur) for bogs of a width of 50 mm
Primer (any liquid is suitable)
Putclone finish gypsum
Putty for joints (can fogenfuller or similar)
Grinding grid
Small grade sandpaper (zero)

Undoubtedly, there is a question of how to produce the exact calculation of the number of each element of construction and finishing materials. To do this, use the methodology below.

Calculation of materials for plasterboard ceiling

To calculate materials, there are simple rules:

The number of the guide of the UD-27 profile is equal to the perimeter of the room (fold the length of all 4 walls)

The carrier profile on plasterboard is fixed in the following order: the first and last at a distance of 300 mm from the wall, the distance between the rest of 600 mm profiles (perhaps less). The remaining profile is fixed to the ceiling with an interval of 600 mm. The amount of CD-60 profile is equal to the number of rows multiplied by the length of the room

Borrowing CD-60 Profile is suspended on P-shaped suspensions with 1M increments. Between the supporting profiles, jumpers from the CD-60 profile shall be installed with a pitch of 0.6 m. For connection, a cross-shaped connector (crab) is used

The number of plasterboard plates is equal to the area (for this you need to multiply the width of the room at its length). When calculating the resulting digit, add 5%. This is necessary to compensate for the consumption of material in trimming.

It's important to know! To carry out accurate calculations, it is recommended to draw the plan of the room (top view). Denote all sizes on it (length, width, level of the future ceiling), the axis of the arrangement of the support profiles, the attachment points of the P-shaped suspensions, the location of the crabs and jumpers.

Gypsum spacities and primers of deep penetration are used for trimming plasterboard ceiling. It's important to know! In order that in the joints of the stoves of the GLCs did not appear cracks, the joints reinforce the self-adhesive glasswork and put off the special putty for the joints.

The consumption of gypsum putty from different manufacturers is about the same. It is 0.46 kg per 1 m.kv ceiling with a layer thickness of 1 mm. Prerequisites primer. The flow rate of liquid primer is about 200 - 300 grams per 1 m.kv.

The expensive tool can be hire in a specialized building tool store. Everything else will surely find every homemade master.

Before you rinse the ceiling by plasterboard with a water or laser level, the horizontal plane is marked on the walls. The minimum height on which the ceiling stitch is performed by plasterboard 3 cm. If built-in point lamps are used, the ceiling level is lowered by 10 or 12 cm depending on the size of the lighting device.

If only chandelier applies, then the frame of the plasterboard ceiling can be omitted to the thickness of the ceiling carrier CD-60 profile. At the place of its attachment, they are mounted to the existing ceiling, a plumber of 40 x 40 cm and a thickness of 10 mm.

Marks on the walls around the perimeter are connected by painting, painting threads. The ceiling also makes a markup of axes for fastening direct suspension and carrier profiles.

Installation of the guide profile

According to the marked line around the perimeter in a step of 35 - 40 cm, a fastening of the UD-27 of the profile is fastened with a dowel-nailing of fast installation. Perform this operation using the Breck drill over concrete with a diameter of 6 mm and a hammer.

Along the lines on the ceiling with a step of 600 mm dowels and self-stairs are fixed by direct suspensions. Their perforated ends are lowered at an angle of 90 degrees.

The profile has a length of 3 or 4 m, so if necessary, they are joined using a direct connector for this. Sometimes it is made from the same carrier profile.

To the P-suspension mustache, the profile is fixed with galvanized screws 12 mm for two each way. Do this screwdriver.

Installing crabs and fastening of transverse jumpers

To support profiles, with a step of 600 mm crabs fasten. Between parallel profiles, jumpers are mounted. For this use segments from the same carrier profile. They are connected between crabs and guide profiles of 12 mm self-taps.

What is the first striking when entering the room?

No doubt this ceiling.

The straight white ceiling has long been irrelevant and, honestly, brings boredom. Multi-level plasterboard ceiling is an excellent solution.

We have prepared everything you need for you to decide on the design of such a design. And also select the location of the built-in backlight.

175 photos of suspended ceilings made of plasterboard for bedroom, living room and kitchen. Detailed help in the selection of the ceiling for a small room. Laconic and convenient infographics for the choice of design style.

Plasterboard ceilings are of all sorts of shapes, colors, designs and easily fit into any style of the room, whether it is a classic or modern. Supporters of a simple interior can limit oneself to a single-level composition, and for those who want to create something unique and creative, the market offers several design options for plasterboard ceilings.

Duplex plasterboard ceilings

Duplex ceilings give the room an extra volume and allow you to change the form of the room literally beyond recognition, making the interior rich and refined. The complexity and fancy ceiling design depends only on your imagination! Such ceilings are primarily rushing into the eyes and attract the attention of guests!

Consistent height differences or smooth flexible lines, built-in lamps or unusual colors in the decoration - all these features of the decor can be implemented using drywall. The ceiling geometry allows you to create any forms: angles, curves, bent and broken lines. Depending on the interior room, the ceiling can also be decorated with painting or stucco.

With the help of height and competent lighting, they can be used as an additional reception for zoning the room space. And you can emphasize only individual interior items to which you want to pay special attention: bed, table.

Duplex ceilings will look great. Plasterboard gives you the opportunity to build any figures on the ceiling: flower, sunshine, alien ship, soccer ball ...

Backlight design on plasterboard ceilings

The main function of the design illumination is rather not even lighting, how much creation in a special mood and pleasant atmosphere in the room. The options for its design is a huge set, but the most popular LEDs and LED tapes are most popular. They give a soft uniform lighting, visually increasing the ceiling depth and creating the so-called "guy" effect. Combining models of different color of the glow and forms, you can come up with your unique design.

Types of designer lighting:

Standard. Such a backlight is simple: it is enough simple ceiling tires for lamps and standard suspended lamps.

Target. Suitable for zoning space, visually dividing different parts of the room one from another. For example, at a place of active pastime, the light can be made more bright, and in the relax area - muffled tones and soft light.

Decorative. Bright contrasting colors or delicate light with overflows: competently thought-out illumination, harmonizing with room furniture and decor elements, will help create an atmosphere and festive mood in the interior.

Ceilings made of drywall for kitchen: Design selection

In the design of the ceiling in the kitchen, the right geometric shapes most often apply. Round layout is good in order to highlight the room center, and rectangular ceilings perfectly adjust the shape of the room. For example, it is recommended a square shape that visually expands the walls. For the kitchen, you can select and wave-like figures of unusual and bizarre configurations, starting with ordinary ovals and ending with unimaginable zigzags.

Attention! In the kitchen with low ceilings, complex structures cannot be placed: select one or two simple figures! Designing the shape of the ceiling, always measure the dimensions of the decor elements with the height of the room so that everything looked harmoniously.

Designer ceilings made of drywall are not only radically transformed, but good and from a practical point of view. Plasterboard has a large moisture resistance, excellent sound insulation and refractory protection that will ensure the beauty and successful operation of the kitchen for many years.

Ceiling design in small kitchen

Plasterboard ceilings are recommended to be placed only in the kitchen with high ceilings or levels above average, as they take the height of the room and poorly reflect the light. For a small kitchen with low ceilings, it is possible to make a duplex design or simply place a slight cornice around the perimeter: it will help the velocity above the "lift" the ceiling and make the space more air and free. You can experiment with color and consider different color gamut for each level.

An interesting designer reception is the so-called "soaring" ceiling. The effect of the ceiling parity is achieved by mounting the second level in the center without visible side walls. LEDs are placed inside this design so that they are imperceptible, and only their light is visible.

Remember that lamps built in the suspended ceiling should be evenly located throughout the area of \u200b\u200bthe kitchen so that all functional zones are illuminated.

Ceiling in the kitchen - living room: competent zoning

What moments need to be considered by choosing for such an unusual room as a combining kitchen-living room?

As we mentioned, it is important to provide for functional division into zones: working (kitchen) and a rest space (dining room). The boundaries between the rooms can be created using an unusual ceiling architecture, building various geometric shapes or distinctive lines. Strengthen the effect will help decorative illumination and the use of different materials when finishing the ceiling in the kitchen and in the living room.

Deliver not only the ceiling on the zones, but also the walls, the floor. Play with design, duplicate various elements, emphasizing the common style! This design will make your kitchen unusual, fashionable and will look much more interesting than the standard coloring of the ceiling in white.

How to make a ceiling in the bedroom?

Wavely lines and incorrect forms are most popular among design ceiling structures: there are no restrictions! Any your decorator ideas, be it asymmetric finishes, multi-tiered friezes, medallions, arches, columns and dome - all this will be relevant and perfectly fit into bed interior!

Multi-level ceilings are typically, as a rule, right above the bed. Avoid bright and attracting coloring: the design should relax! The ceilings of warm light and muted tones will be best cope with this task.

Little Bedroom Design

Selection of the right color scheme will help enrich the interior of a small room and make it spacious. Traditionally stain in white. But you can come up with something more interesting: for example, a gentle-blue suspended ceiling will resemble the open sky. Another unusual option for the bedroom is to paint the middle of the ceiling in a deep warm color (for example, in burgundy), and perform a systematic transition to the color range of walls using the center from the center.

Expand small rooms helps the use of glossy surfaces ... But this is not the case! In the bedroom, the bright shine will only distract, so it is better to give preference to matte ceilings.

Avoid complex forms and multi-level structures: the journey of different elements visually narrows the space. Such decoration is permissible only if you need to distinguish between the functional zones of the room or creating an accent on any design element.

Correct a narrow bedroom

Unfortunately, square or narrow bedrooms in the apartment are far from uncommon! The main feature of such a bedroom is high ceilings, but this height can be easily corrected using color. For a visual increase in height, pale tones will be suitable, and dark colors will help the top "omit". If you paint the walls on two tones darker the ceiling - it will also make it below. Remember that the color of the ceiling and floor should always be different!

Do not be afraid to experiment and boldly use such original colors for a narrow bedroom ceiling such as bright pink, purple, orange, coffee-colored.

In the ceiling design, be sure to build a plurality of point lamps. A large number of light in the room will create the illusion of a spacious free room.

Original design for bedroom 12-14 sq m

Creative in the Children's Bedroom

The ceiling of plasterboard is a great opportunity to realize all its original creative ideas in the children's room.

In addition to the incredible design of the ceiling, which can be easily constructed independently, it has also other visible advantages:

Single and multi-level ceilings can combine chandeliers, and lamps, and built-in backlight, which will provide enough light in the room and help divide it into zones. In addition to central lighting, in the nursery necessarily there must be additional lamps with different light intensity. The zone for study should be best covered, the zone for sleep is better to make darker, and in the center of the room, where there is a lot of light at any time, leave a place for games.
With the help of drywall, you can create interesting ceilings and lamps in the form of all kinds of shapes such as a butterfly, flower, plane, birds that can be invented depending on the interests of the child.

Individual ceiling design can also be created using hand painted. This method is still little known and is not distributed, but allows you to bring to life any desire of your child and make a room for him really special and native.

The choice of arsenal for repair in the children's bedroom should always be approached especially responsibly. Plasterboard refers to natural and environmentally friendly materials, so that you can not worry about the child's health.

For the design of the ceiling in the living room designers advise to use the designs of geometrically correct forms: it will be all possible circumference or a figure, emphasizing the framework of the base ceiling of the room.

Plasterboard ceilings will help you solve the problem for several zones. Point lamps and various decorative inserts will create a special atmosphere and will become a final stroke when creating a unique design room.

The project of your ceiling must organically fit into the style design of the hall itself. For example, in a glossy ceiling will look at least strange, this option is more suitable for Heytec or Modern.

Registration of the hall in Khrushchev

The hall in Khrushchev is, as a rule, a room of a small area with ceilings with a height of up to 2.5 meters and almost zero soundproofing. Therefore, when planning the premises and ceilings, you need to choose such design solutions that will help these features to fix for the better.

Tell me "no" a big chandelier that will only climb the living room and make it visually below. The most optimal option is a small suspended ceiling with built-in point illumination: scattered lighting visually will increase the space. In the suspended construction, you can pave noise insulation, which will provide the necessary sound protection.

Another interesting design solution is to combine the drywall and glossy ceilings that will reflect the light and visually "raise" the surface of the ceiling.

Choose colors in warm light gamme. And if you make a ceiling and walls of the same color, then the boundaries of the room will seem to die, and it will also create the illusion of a large space.

Spacious living room 20 square meters. m.

The room at first glance may seem large, but its visual and actual size more depends on the ceilings. If they are low, then you should not build complex two- or multi-level structures that will illuminate the living room to reduce: one level will be enough. For a low ceiling, choose a tone that will be the lighter walls or go, which will be visually "lifting" the ceiling.

To illuminate a large room, it is recommended to use drywall structures with point luminaires built into them, having a function of zonal adjustable lighting. Then you can adjust the amount of light in each part of the room if necessary. For example, turn on only two light bulbs above the cabinet or three lamps above the bed.

Mastery of the ceiling of plasterboard do it yourself

If there is at least the slightest skills of skills, the installation of plasterboard will not be a challenge for you. It is only necessary to know some features of drywall sheets and what to do with them, how to design everything and successfully hide under the ceiling all the flaws of the finish. We will tell about all this now.

First of all, you will need to have an inventory of your instruments and, if necessary, buy missing devices and materials such as, for example, suspensions, self-tapping screws, profiles and dowel-nails. Profile Take the size of at least 4 meters in order not to encounter the need for their docks.

The first level of the frame is always mounted equally. Before the plasterboard turns into a full-fledged design, it will be necessary to install a simple single-level ceiling. To do this, we make markup with a laser level and at a distance of ten centimeters from the main ceiling by placing a wall profile.
The size of the indent will depend on how the lamps and engineering systems are located in the interpostor zone. To accurately install the frame, use the laser level again.
Secure the longitudinal profiles by placing them at a distance of about 500-600 mm. The size of the profiles is usually fixed, so when installing the ceiling in a large room, they will need to be combined with each other with special devices.
Make the suspension over the ceiling profile. Secure them with an anchor or with a dowel-nail. Attach the guides to the suspensions and secure them with self-draws.

All these actions will require extreme concentration and accuracy in measurements. Now that the main ceiling frame is made, before us again the question arises: how nevertheless construct the plasterboard ceiling themselves?

First, run electrical wiring, ventilation, communication so that all wires are hidden under the ceiling before the sheets are placed. You can do holes for installing the lighting both before and after installation.
If there are not very smooth walls in your room, then with plasterboard sheets can form sloppy joints. Therefore, before making the ceiling and start to spread the sheets, you will need to pre-trim the slightly place of these joints with the wall or angle of the room so that your sheet lay down beautifully and neatly. To begin with, take and treat all sheets with a special primer to provide them with good waterproofing.
Leave the distance of a few millimeters from the ceiling to the wall so that the plasterboard sheets can freely "breathe" and are not deformed then under the influence of high temperatures.
Start fixing the sheets along the carrier profiles, strictly observing the chess order: the first sheet must be fixed relative to the wall, and the next - from the longitudinal profile coming first.
Installation stage is finished! Now you need to do holes for fixing the lamps, pipe gaskets and other communications.
The ceiling putty should be started only after the initial intransment finish is completed. Use the one that will deeply penetrate the joints: it will help to make drywall to do a stronger and simultaneously process the sheets themselves, preventing the appearance of mold, microorganisms and other fungi on the ceiling.
The installation of plasterboard sheets is complete, it remains only to add different decorations to them and decor elements.

The decoration of the suspended ceiling made of plasterboard with their own hands in most cases is conjugate with many doubts. A wide range of materials and colors, a variety of design solutions - all this does not contribute to it easy to stop your choice on something concrete.

Why plasterboard?

Type of drywall (brand)	Application area	Leaf color	Marking color
Normal (GLC)	Decoration of walls and ceilings; Erecting undesupply partitions	Grey	Blue
Moisture-resistant (G CLEM)	Decoration of walls and ceilings kitchens, bathroom bathrooms; Erecting dehydrate indoors with high humidity	Green	Blue
Fire-resistant (GKLO)	Finishing air ducts and communication mines; Finishing of metal structures in civil buildings	Grey	Red
Moisture-shaped (G CLEBO)	Finishing structures to achieve the required degree of fire resistance in wet rooms (kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms, baths, saunas, etc.)	Green	Red

Among the diversity of finishing materials, experts advise you to choose exactly plasterboard. This is one of the most popular materials in our country, which, thanks to the latest developments, has gained such qualities recently as moisture resistance and high temperatures. In this regard, plasterboard can be:

The popularity of material is caused by numerous advantages, including:

no need for complex preparatory procedures - processing of material as simple as possible;
low cost;
simplicity of processing and editing;
a wide range of applications;
unpretentious care (you need to wipe the ceiling with a damp cloth once a few months).

But there are disadvantages:

lack of elasticity (in which plasterboard loses PVC film);
susceptibility to moisture exposure (if the material is not moisture-resistant);
flavoring (if not fire-resistant, respectively).

Prices for plasterboard and sheet materials

Plasterboard and leafy materials

Stage 1. Drawing up a project

The project will require a project. To create it, you can use one of the special architectural programs that allow you to get the ready-made scheme and the necessary volumes of consumables. If you do everything in the old manner, you will have to spend much more time and strength.

Step 1. With the help of a special formula, the perimeter is determined. It looks like this (if the size of the room, for example, 5x4 m):

(5 + 4) x 2 \u003d 18 m (p)

It turns out, the length of the guide profiles will be 18 m. Then the data obtained are displayed on millimeter paper.

Note! If the length of the opposite walls is different (this is found quite often), then more indicator is taken for calculations.

Step 2. After that, you need to proceed to the calculation of the frame profile. The work will use 6x2.7 cm profiles - they will be enshrined in increments of 0.6 m. It is important that the length of each profile is equal to the width of the room. To calculate the number of ridges, the width of the room (400 cm) should be divided into step (60 cm). As a result of simple calculations, we obtain: 6.66 (the amount is rounded to 7.0).

The first and last rails are mounted at 10 cm from the surface of the walls, and all others are according to the steps above.

Note! Step 60 cm chose no coincidence. The fact is that the standard width of plasterboard sheets is 0.6 or 1.2 m.

Mounting places are transferred to the project.

400/60 x 7 \u003d 47 pieces.

The first and last suspension is attached to 30 cm from the surface of the walls. Fastening sites are designated in the cross-labels. We also note that it is preferable to use spring suspensions that are directly acceptable only in two cases:

with an absolutely smooth ceiling surface;
with the height of the structure more than 12 cm.

Step 4. After that, it is necessary to determine the number of jumpers that give the stiffness of the structure.

((400/60) - 1) x 7 \u003d 40 pieces.

Step 5. It remains only to determine the desired number of screws and plasterboard sheets. With the well-known area of \u200b\u200bthe room (20 m²) and leaf (3 m²) make it quite simple - almost five sheets of material will be required.

With self-drawing, too, no difficulties should be:

"Thirtieth" self-drawers will be recorded by plasterboard (step length - 25 cm);
60x6 products will be used for walls (step length - 30 cm) and ceiling (60 cm);
for fittings, LN11 screws will be used: for "crabs" and profiles of 4 pcs. for suspensions and profiles - 2 pcs.

It is also necessary to note the number of lighting devices and determine the length of the wiring.

Stage 2. Preparation of equipment and consumables

Of course, the list of the necessary tools for each master is yours, since in this business, much depends on the skill and the ability to use them. But there are those without which it is unlikely to successfully perform work:

Note! Depending on the features of the ceiling, the list can be supplemented, for example, the locks for docking profiles located at different heights (if large stones interfering with normal drilling are found in concrete), etc.

Stage 3. Guide Frame

After the preparation of everything you need can be started.

Step 1. At first, with the help of a roulette, the lowest angle of the room is determined. It puts a label:

5 cm from the ceiling, if the installation of built-in lighting devices is not planned;
9 cm, if planned.

Step 2. Using the level there is a similar height in other angles. After that, along each wall is made by several labels at the height of the first point; All labels are connected to each other with a pencil using a strained cord or a long ruler. Although there is another option - to designate these lines.

Step 3. The guide profile is attached to the walls. If the docking seams are planned between the angles (and in large rooms without it), then you need to additionally strengthen the design in order to avoid "connecting" elements under its weight. For this, any tight material is suitable - tin, plastic or plywood - which you need to put on top of each seam and fasten with durable dowels on the wall.

Note! For this, a special sealing tape is suitable ("Serpenta"), but it is not sold in all building stores.

After that, the angular joints of the profile are strengthened.

Stage 4. Main ceiling profile

Step 1. As already noted above, most often the sheets of plasterboard are 120 x 250 cm in size, which is why the ceiling profiles are desirable to secure in 40 cm increments - so each sheet will be fixed along the edges and twice in the middle.

The ceiling is placed by parallel lines with a fortyxantimeter.

Step 2. Every 2.5 meters (that is, jumpers from the same profile are mounted on transverse joints). Of course, if the dimensions of the sheets are different, then the distance is determined individually. In the fields of joints are set "crabs".

Step 3. Next, it is necessary to determine the location I am suspensions. The first of them is set to 25 cm from the wall surface, all subsequent - with a step of 50 cm. Anchors are used for fastening the suspensions (ordinary dowels will not fit, because they have no thread, and the design can "pull out" from the ceiling under the action of gravity).

Step 4. Ceiling profiles are attached to the suspensions. Starting with the corners of the room. All, frame for suspended ceiling is ready.

Stage 5. Thermal insulation

If there is a desire, the suspension ceiling can be inspired by the special fasteners system, which is called "fungus".

Prices for popular types of insulation

Insulation

Stage 6. Installation of plasterboard sheets

Initially, a number of important nuances should be understood: plasterboard is extremely sensitive to high humidity, temperature, as well as deformations. Therefore, it is necessary to store the material solely in a horizontal position, and a few days before the start of work, move to the room where the repair is carried out so that it is "cleaned". This will allow you to adapt the structure of the material to specific conditions.

Further actions must be executed according to the instructions.

Step 1. Initially, the material for those places where the whole sheet is needed.

Step 2. The chamfer on the edge is removed by means of an assembly knife - this will provide a deeper penetration of the spacing material in the slot.

Step 3. The mounting of the plasterboard begins with one of the corners, the first screw is located 10 cm from the edge. Distance between screws - 20 cm.

Note! Ships screws should be dried in obligatory. It is also important that the screws on the "adjacent" sheets were located not opposite each other, but a swirl.

Step 4. The following sheets are installed. A small gap remains around the perimeter (approximately 2 mm), the sheets are joined with a minimum shift in 1 cell. It is necessary to ensure that each sheet is attached in the center, and at the edges.

Video - installation of suspended ceiling

Stage 7. Final finish ceiling

Particular attention is paid to the seams, since the quality of their sealing directly depends on the aesthetics of the future design.

Step 1. Initially, the seams are climbing the primer - it will change the porous structure, it will become more dense and, as a result, it will absorb a putty. After that, you need to wait until the primer is fully absorbed and dried.

Step 2. On the shutters and seams between the sheets, putty is applied. To do this, use only a high-quality spatula, with sharp and smooth edges.

Must be a special, meant for seams (this moment must be clarified in the construction store or in the manufacturer's instructions).

Step 3. When the seams are completely dried, they should be sovered with a suture ribbon. It is characteristic that the joints of the joints at the same time are closed with the allen. The ribbon is processed with putty, in parallel close all detected cracks.

Step 4. After drying, the finish coating is applied (for example, paint, plaster, etc.).

Step 5. Mounted (if they are provided for a previously compiled project).

Video - Installation of point lamps

Note! Setting from drywall do it yourself, do not forget about the means of individual protection. Use glasses and respirator - they will retain your health.

Operating Rules

The quality of the ceiling largely depends on the moisture resistance of the used drywall. The average of the area in the premises is 40-75%, as a result of which regular ventilation is desirable.
To increase the lifetime of the suspension ceiling, it is necessary to clean the surface in time. This can be done with a dry or damp cloth (in the second case, it is necessary to add a small amount of cleaning agent into water).
The use of abrasive materials is categorically prohibited!
In order for the temperature inside the design did not differ from the room temperature, the panels are removed immediately at the end of the installation. Further, the layer of the playerproof material is laid (even if the insulation was previously laid).
Pencil spots can be removed using conventional elasty.
The internal space of the design should be ventilated, for which it is necessary to leave the gap around 2 mm around the perimeter.

As we can see, install the suspended ceiling is simple enough, but only if there are appropriate tools and detailed instructions.

Top 5 best plasterboard manufacturers

	Photo	Name	Rating	Price
#1		Knauf.	⭐ 100 / 100
#2

Performing apartment repairs, the home master often faces work on the ceiling, which is always in the field of view of any visitor and therefore is important in the design of any room.

Due to the availability of a wide range of sheets of plasterboard and various fasteners for it, you can create a perfectly smooth ceiling with your own hands, providing a beautiful interior of the room. This will require an easy tool kit and use them to use.

How to choose plasterboard for ceiling

Since the entire design rises to height and fixes there, it should be paid attention to its weight. What he is more, the harder to perform high-quality work, apply against collapse.

Types of plasterboard sheets manufactured by industry are described in the article. Choosing them for the ceiling when repairing the apartment with your own hands, you should not take those that thicker 12.5 mm. Optimally use 9.5 or 8.0 mm. Otherwise, the overall weight of the suspended ceiling design can be quite large.

Comparative weight grade of plasterboard sheets
Size and Leaf Square in meters	Sheet weight in kilograms with thickness in mm
Size and Leaf Square in meters	12,5	9,5	6,0
1.2 ∙ 3.0 \u003d 3.6 m square	36	27	18
1.2 ∙ 2.5 \u003d 3.0 m square	29	22	16
1.2 ∙ 2.0 \u003d 2.4 m square	23	18	12

It is enough to determine the total area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling coating, and on it, knowing the characteristics of one sheet, taken from the table, calculate the total weight.

Stages of mounting suspended ceiling

The work comes down to the consistent implementation of technological operations:

determine the plane of the placement of the base surface and applying its markup on building structures;
installation of the holding frame of metal profiles, taking into account the mains of electrical wiring and low-current chains;
fastening sheets of plasterboard;
putty and finishing surface surface.

How to perform the markup of the suspended ceiling

The ideal solution is the fastening of the structure strictly in, which is well perceived by our vision. It is convenient to use it for the embodiment of various designs of designers.

After repairing the apartment with your own hands to mark the horizon, you can use conventional hydraulic levels with bubble reference indicators or various designs of laser levels. The use of the latter greatly facilitates the drawing of the base plane, allows you to perform it quickly and efficiently.

In order to place the depth of lowering the plasterboard surface from the ceiling, it will be necessary to shoot its horizon level on the walls.

Laser beam allows you to quickly reveal the boundaries of the horizontal plane. For its markup, it is necessary to determine the lowest point on the ceiling overlap plates and retreat from it to a minimum size of 4 cm. Such a distance is necessary to hide profiles and convenient to fasten them with suspensions.

If they are installed in principle to the ceiling, then it will be quite difficult to work, and more removal reduces the amount of free space room.

In marked laser beam, well-visible checkpoints are applied by marker pencil. They beat off the whole line by coloring painting lace. It is fixed in the edges for this, and then they are dramatically released.

Marking Do not forget to take into account the thickness of the leaf of plasterboard.

This is done throughout the perimeter of the room, the uniform closed line on the walls. After that, it is necessary to draw marking for the installation of profiles on the width of the ceiling and attaching plasterboard to them.

Each sheet must be attached around the perimeter and midline. With a standard width of 120 cm, the center will be located at a distance of 60 cm from the edge. At such a distance from the wall and conduct markup for fastening profiles.

Each line should coincide with the joint of the leaf of plasterboard in the center of the intermediate profile. Through it in the ceiling at the same distance, holes under a dowel for fastening with self-drawing of suspension, regulating and holding an intermediate profile will be drilled.

The markup of the ceiling lines are conveniently performed along the long side of the room. It is necessary to start work from one wall and gradually move to the opposite. The last row may be shorter. Plasterboard sheets for it will have to trim.

How to perform mounting frame for installation of a suspended ceiling

The first designs of plasterboard sheets were dripped on the ceiling through the dried wooden rails. However, wood is subject to humidity, drying and deformations. After some time, cracks and defects can occur on the outer surface. For these reasons, modern technology involves the installation of drywall only on metal, specially created for these purposes profiles.

General rules

The principle of mounting the plasterboard design is based on the hard attachment to the walls of the guide profile and the setting of the intermediate, which is additionally adjustable and is held on the suspension screwed to the ceiling.

From a standard range of profiles manufactured by industry for fastening drywall, UD27, and intermediate - CD60, are suitable as guide models.

We will also need ribbon suspensions, the number of which depends on the profile assembly scheme.

Installation of the guide profile

The line battered on the wall serves as a benchmark for setting the lower surface of the mounted profile.

To do this, it is pre-drilled and applied to the place of installation. After the orientation on the wall through the created holes, the marker pencil is inserted, leaving the visible trace. According to the created markup, penetrated the hole with a perforator and a dowel is clogged into them.

This installation will serve as a support for the entire design of the suspended ceiling. It is necessary to fulfill it.

Fastening an intermediate profile

Its length should be strictly measured and match the size of the room. If it is more, then the extra part can be cut off with a grinder or hacking for metal. When the standard size is not enough for 3 meters, the missing piece is increasing with a connection through an adapter with a screw mount.

The intermediate profiles prepared in length are inserted into the guides fixed on the wall so that their wide part of the base is drawn down to the sheets of drywall.

Before performing this operation on the previously scheduled lines on the ceiling, tape suspensions are installed. They serve to adjust the capped horizontal plane of the suspended ceiling. Controlling the work is convenient to use a strained thread or cord and tape measure.

The indent of the profile from the surface of the stationary ceiling of order of one centimeter is needed to make it convenient to fasten it with the suspension of the metal screw and adjust the level of the horizontal plane, inserting the fingertip in this gap.

After fastening the profile, the free ends of the suspension bent to the side.

How to pave wiring in the suspended ceiling

Rooms should be thought out in advance, before starting the repair of the apartment with their own hands. To do this, consider and determine the installation sites of the dispensary boxes.

Close and hiding inside the building structures of the connection point and wires can not be. Access to them should be free. Otherwise, when faults in the power grid will have to seek the cause of the breakdown and break the created decorative coatings.

Installation of electric highways

Cables and wires for lamps located in the suspended ceiling are placed in corrugated or metal that protect its surface from mechanical damage, and then fixed on the ceiling or in profiles.

Create an intermediate fastening link or a separate suspended system, and the point luminaires are allowed to mount directly in the sheets of plasterboard.

Here it is also necessary to provide questions for lighting instruments, ensure their necessary length.

Working with electrical wiring must be completely finished before installing sheets on the frame.

How to prepare and secure plasterboard

Features of training ends

On the entire perimeter of the surface of each sheet, curly edges must be created, which serve to fill the plaque solution. On factory products, they can have a different profile.

If you need to cut the sheets of plasterboard, then on the created joints, professional builders form edges with a special tool.

There is no domestic master of such devices, but it is quite possible to do with a simple ruble for wood processing.

Its cutting blade is strictly fixed in the housing M allows you to perform smooth, monotonous slice.

Use the same ordinary knife should not be a curve surface.

The edges are created in order to increase the volume of space for a spike solution. If they do not do, then because of its insufficient quantity over time, cracks on the decorative surface will be formed.

Surface markup

On each sheet before installing it, it is necessary to carry out the markup lines for which the screws will be screwed to mount to the intermediate profile hidden behind the surface. Ordinary roulette and paint cord will allow you to fulfill this work quickly and efficiently.

Installing drywall on frame

The weight of one sheet, depending on the thickness, can range from 12 to 36 kg. At the same time, he has great dimensions. Working with it and lift from the floor to the ceiling level is not quite simple: you need an assistant.

Among the builders there are specialists who, in the presence of experience and prepared devices, perform such work alone. The owner of the SEVERKOLA video demonstrates one of the ways of such installation.

Repeat these techniques without certain construction experience and the skills in handling plasterboard do not advise.

Features of fastening sheets to frame

Mounting of drywall is carried out by 35 mm screws. So that they well kept heavy weight them twist at a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the sheet and 10 ÷ 15 cm among themselves. The mount is performed throughout the perimeter of the surface and the central line.

Pre-performed clear marking of the suspended ceiling made of metal profiles and sheets of drywall provides accurate soles in the fastening elements.

Hats heads must be flat. They are barely intermitted to the surface of the sheet for the subsequent convenient shtklanie and alignment.

In places of docking sheets, it is necessary to install additional profiles that provide tight fit of the drywall. The connection is made using transition inserts, fastening on a thread, or the "crab" suspension.

The fastening of the sheets to them by self-drawing provides increased rigidity of the structure, eliminates the formation of cracks during operation.

The general view of the created design with a bred cable for power is shown in the photo.

Putty and finishing

From consumables for this work, you will need to purchase the spacure and tape itself, which enhances plates docking.

The technology of proper execution of the sequence of operations is well shown in the video of the Owner of the Front of Works "" Pluckle of a High Quality Ceiling ". We recommend that it will be carefully familiar with this material because a certain part of the builders violates these rules that simplify their work.

September 28, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work (bookmark the foundation, construction of walls, roof design, etc.). Domestic construction work (laying internal communications, roughing and finishing). Hobbies: Mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

Today I will tell you how to make a suspended ceiling of plasterboard. In my opinion, this is one of the pretty simple ways to improve its arrangement. The instruction that is presented below is understandable even for the most inexperienced beginner builders.

Taking advantage of it, you will be able to fulfill all the work on your own, saving for the remuneration of builders. And since the price of the material itself is not so great, the cost of the entire project will be quite affordable.

Ceiling device and necessary materials

The design ceiling of the drywall is a frame that is attached to the walls and overlap of the room, and then the GLC is trimmed, after which it is decorated with decorative materials. The frame is single-level and multi-level.

If you have not done suspended ceilings from drywall with your own hands, I advise you to stay in first version. It is about him who will be discussed further.

To construct a single-level framework, ceiling galvanized PP profiles (CD) 60 per 27 mm and PPN (UD) 28 per 27 mm are needed. To connect them, they use screws for metal and single-level connectors ("grinding").

Slide the profiles to the ceiling I will be on the P-shaped brackets ("Pashki"). It can be replaced with their spring suspensions. Brackets and profiles to the walls will be attached to scarves with plastic dowels.

I recommend using a 9.5 mm thick plasterboard with a thickness of 1200 mm and a length of 2500 mm. If you are going to sow a room with high levels of humidity (, bathroom, toilet), you need to buy moisture-resistant GLC green. In all other cases, a standard brown (grayish) is suitable.

If you follow the advice listed above, achieve the optimal combination of strength characteristics and weight. Normal value - 13 kg per 1 square meter ceiling.

As for the tools, it will be necessary:

perforator to do the holes in the slab overlap and enclosing walls;
screwdriver to twist the screws;
scissors for metal cutting profiles;
laser or water level to perform markup;
tools for plasterboard plasterboard.

The process of installing HCL on the ceiling consists of only three stages:

Beginning of work

So, before making a suspended ceiling of plasterboard with your own hands, you must properly prepare the overlap and develop a project of a future design.

Surface preparation

Immediately I want to say that the suspension ceiling perfectly hides all the defects of the slab plate. Therefore, work on preparation will not be volumetric. Their main task is to ensure reliable fastening of the frame on the slab overlap and walls.

For this, I usually perform such actions:

I dismantle the old finish. It is necessary to tear up old wallpaper or paint to a layer of putty or plaster. By the way, if the paint on the ceiling is not falling off, and it keeps very firmly, it is also not necessarily all scored. It is enough to remove damaged areas that may turn.

I perform repair plate overlap. Before installing GLC, it is necessary to repair the defects of the reinforced concrete slab ceiling overlap. To do this, with the help of a repair cement solution or polyurethane mounting foam, it is necessary to close large slots and cracks.

If you find sections with nude reinforcement, then before sealing it is necessary to clean the metal from rust, losing it with a rust converter, and after drying the latter, embed the gaps.

Bashed surface.This operation allows you to take the ceiling slab. If you are going to make a ceiling in the room of high humidity, it is better to take primer with antiseptic properties designed to work on the mineral base.

Mounting engineering communications.Before installing the ceiling, you must take care of the installation of engineering systems. Usually we are talking about ventilation channels and electrical cables. I recommend to do the first to do from plastic pipes. And the wires are placed in protective corrugations that will be removed from the fire in the event of a short circuit.

To bring the ceiling to the ideal and to align it strictly in the level is not necessary. After all, it will be done with the help of frame and drywall sheets.

Project development

Now we take on the creation of a project of the future ceiling. Again, if you are going to design a complex multilevel ceiling, I recommend using specialized computer applications for this. They calculate the number of necessary materials.

In the case described, the case of the ceiling will be single-level, without complex zigzags and steps. Therefore, it is possible to calculate it yourself. I will give an exemplary calculation scheme for a size of 3 by 6 meters:

First you need to determine the perimeter of the room - our will be 3 + 3 + 6 + 6 \u003d 18 meters. It is so much the ceiling guide profile UD will be needed. Naturally, take with a slight margin, in case something is spoiled. In addition, they will need to invest in each other, which also needs to be considered.
When measuring the room, free all the walls. There are cases when opposite walls are not equal to each other. Then take the greater value.
Next, you need to calculate the amount of CD carrier ceiling profile. In my case, it will be attached at a distance of 50 cm from each other across the room. Accordingly, 600/50 cm \u003d 12 pieces. This is for the case when GLC will be attached along the room. The length of the sheet is 2500 mm, that is, its edges will be accounted for just carrying parts.
If you put the sheets of GLC across the room, the distance between the carrier profiles should be 60 cm (since the width of the sheet is 120 cm). Then 600/60 \u003d 10 pieces.
At the next step, the number of P-shaped suspensions is calculated. They are attached to the carrier profile at a distance of 60 cm. The length of the profile in our case is 3 meters. That is, 300/60 \u003d 5 suspensions. We have 12 profiles. So 12 * 5 \u003d 60 suspensions.
Remember that the first and last suspensions need to be attached to a distance of 30 cm from the wall, and already the rest - at a distance of 60 cm apart.
You also need to calculate the number of crabs. They will be needed 24, that is twice as much as carrier CD profiles.

The number of self-tapping and dowels can also be counted, but I do not advise you to stop at this. Buy on a box of screws to bonding profiles, for screwing drywall and screws with dowels for mounting the frame on the walls.

Step by step guide

Sequencing:

Perform markup. First you need to arm a laser or bubble level and repel the line on the enclosure walls of the room, which will be located strictly horizontally. In my case, the slab of the overlap has protrusions-ribs, so I spent the line just below. You can spend a straight line or outline it with a dotted line as depicted in the photo below.

These marks will subsequently serve as a guide to fix the ceiling guide UD profiles.

Next, take an ordinary metal drill with a diameter of 7 mm and drill in the guide parts of the holes, which will later be necessary to install screws with dowels.

Holes must be drilled in a profile at a distance of 50 cm from each other. Extreme - Must to defend from the profile cutting to a distance of 10 cm. Holes I do in the profile in advance in order not to drill the part of the drill with a winning tip (which is intended for concrete walls).

Intim the guide profiles on the walls. For this, I apply a profile to the drawings made on the wall (line), after which the drilled holes are drilled through the perforator with a perforator to drive holes in the walls. The diameter of the drill in this case is 6 mm.

After that, in the wall done in the wall (naturally, with the attached profile) insert a dowel-nail. It is a plastic part with thickening at the end where the metal core is driven.

Dowel size 6 by 50 mm. The dowel is thrown by the hammer. If you make some error when installing, it can then be unscrewed or screwdriver.

At the corners of the room, the guide profiles are invested in each other, after which the connection site is reinforced with a small self-tapping screw. If necessary, combat two elements (if its length is insufficient for the whole room), it will be necessary to simply invest two guides one to another. In this place, it is necessary to drill through the hole and drive into the wall another dowel-nail.

I establish carrying galvanized profiles.As I have already mentioned, in my case, GLK will fit along the room. Accordingly, the distance between adjacent parts will be 50 cm. You need to take the roulette and perform the marking of the walls, putting risks at a distance of 50 cm from each other.

Then you need to fit the profiles under the width of the room (if they are already). To do this, I recommend measuring the profile of the desired length (5 mm less than the distance between the walls), after which the cutters on the side shelves are scissors, and then bending and flexing the item just break it down. Then the upper need to cut a little diagonally, as shown in the photo.

If the width of the room is such that the length of one detail of the profile is not enough, you need to use two products, captivating them with each other connector that can be bought in the store. If such at hand did not turn out, it can be made independently. Scheme such:

i cut off from CD-part a piece of 20 cm long (can be slightly less);
after that, I cut off two short shelves, which are located along the side of the profile;
then this item is bended exactly in the middle of the central gutter so that the profile acquires the look of the Latin letter W, it is clearly visible on the illustration below.

Then you need to insert cropped profiles to the guides. To do this, it is necessary to place one end, after which it is to remove the item diagonally and insert into the opposite guide. At the same time, the products must be located so that their center (it is visible on the profile) was accurately combined with a mark on the wall.

If you have a distance between the last carrier bar or the wall of the room more than 50 cm, you need to divide the remaining distance in half and install an additional profile for strength in this place. But consider that CD parts should be located so that the edges of the GLCs must be placed on them.

After all the profiles have placed on the guides according to the markup, they must be secured by self-drawing. I use one screws on each profile on each side. You can wrap yourself with a screwdriver.

I set the transverse elements of the supporting profiles.Here, too, start with marking. Considering that the sheet of drywall I will put along, you need to measure a distance of 1200 mm from one of the walls and make the appropriate risks on each carrier profile. To do this, it is better to use a marker, as the pencil does not draw a bad and poorly visible on galvanized. It turns out such a markup.

To connect two frames of the frame at one level, a special item is needed, which in commoner is called "crab". It looks as follows. He has special latches, thanks to which it is securely fixed on the CD profile.

These crabs need to be inserted into already installed details, focusing on pre-applied marks. To avoid the longitudinal slip of the bracket, it is desirable to secure on the carrier screw. For this purpose there are necessary holes. Just one screw.

Then the crabs are attached to the crabs. To do this, it is necessary to cut the right number of parts (their length should correspond to the distance between the supporting profiles), after which they fix them with two screws. Extreme crossbars are inserted into the carrier profile installed on the wall. As a result, it turns out the design shown in the photo.

If the width of the room is more than 2.6 meters, you will need as many rows of transverse elements, how many uses of the junction of GLK. In my case, these are two rows. You will all depend on the perimeter of the room. But the principle of installation will remain the same.

It happens that you have incorrectly calculated the number of crabs, and the brackets were not enough for installation. Then you can fix a few details without them. To do this, you need to cut the guide profile correctly:

first you need to measure the profile, the length of which will be 40 mm larger than the distance between the guides;
then you should cut the side shelves in such a way that tongues formed from a wide face (their edges also need to trim under a small angle).

Then this item can be simply screwed to the CD profile using one self-press. Oriented needed on the central edge of rigidity. In principle, using this advice you can completely abandon the use of crabs. This will not affect strength.

Fixing the frame on the concrete overlap.Without this, the plasterboard design will not be secure, since its length is large enough. P-shaped perforated suspensions are used for fixing, which masters are called "Pashchi".

The suspensions must hold long bearing profiles at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Therefore, you must first make the marker on the details of the mark at the same distance from each other.

Over the marked places you need to make two holes for fixing the bracket. To not be mistaken, you can apply the bracket, then do the holes. As a result, it will turn out:

To secure the suspensions themselves, you can use a dowel-nail or anchor bolts. In my case, I use screws that screw in choppers from dry birch. This is due to the fact that the thickness of the slab slab in this room is not enough to reliably move the dowel there. But this is only a feature of this particular installation.

Then screw the suspensions. In my case, the distance between the ceiling and the framework is such that you have to use two suspensions by placing them on both sides of the carrier profile. But, as a rule, one suspension is suitable. Then you just need to bend it the petals at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the slab overlap.

The mount is made as shown in the photo:

Remember that you first need to fix all the suspensions on the ceiling, without attaching them to the supporting profiles. Before screwing the brackets directly to the frame, the latter needs to be aligned relative to the horizontal, since now profiles are a little savory under their weight.

Now I will tell you how to easily align all this design:

First, you should raise the entire frame in the center so that it is obviously higher than the required level, and consolidate it in this state to the suspension with the help of screws in two or three places. It will be a temporary fastening, which will then be cleaned.
Then you need to fix the cord. In the guide, the same wall is twisted with a screw with a beep-tied to it, then it is pulled through the entire room and is screwed to the screw on the opposite guide profile. If you raised the ceiling (as described in the previous paragraph), there is a small gap between the rope and framework.

If you do not want to raise the ceiling, you can fix the thread from the top of the guide profile. Then the ceiling will be saved and the gap is still formed, which is necessary for alignment.
After all the threads are stretched, you can align the profile in the guideline and fix it on the suspension. Be sure to leave a gap of about 1 mm so that the aligned parts are not disturbed by the plane formed by the tight ropes.

This surface leveling process takes most of the time required to install the ceiling. But it needs to be carefully and without a rush, otherwise it turns out the surface curve.

Another moment. If after attachment you have the protruding parts of the brackets, they need to be simply bent. Cut optional.

Perform insulation of the surface of the ceiling.You can also omit this stage if the ceiling insulation is not required. But in my case, the slab overlap is too thin and requires thermal insulation. In addition, the material used will play the role of sound insulation layer.

As thermal insulation, I will use a foam foam with a thickness of 4 mm. An additional reflective thermal screen will be quite effective that the thermal energy is not consumed in vain through the overlap.

The complexity in my case consists in fixing the foam, since I will not attach it to the profile to the profile or screws. Exit from the position for me was shoe glue.

By the way, it is possible to replace it with liquid nails. Well, another alternative is the use of bilateral scotch.

I missed glue the bottom surface of the profiles, and then those parts of the foam, which will be glued. After that, I performed the installation of the insulation. Remember that it is necessary to glue it so that the foil side is located towards the residential room. All this is clearly seen in the photo.

Fixed plasterboard sheets on profile.It is better to do this with a partner who will hold sheets during consolidation. But I will continue to tell you how you still do it only on our own.

In this case, you will need two backups that have the shape of the letters T (well or mop). Their length should be such that in the vertical position to practically rest in the surface of the ceiling frame surface (even without taking into account the thickness of the plasterboard plate). The backup of the simplest design is depicted in the photo.

I tell how to use this mop:

First you need to install the mop at the wall in such a way that the gap is formed between it and the ceiling, where can be plasterboard sheet in thickness.
Then you need to take a sheet of plasterboard and flatten it on this backup.
After that, you should grasp the sheet for the opposite (lower) edge and raise it to the ceiling. In this case, the opposite edge should be tightly stuck in the wall and fixed between the frame and the short part of the mop.
Having raised it from the floor, you need to slip under the bottom of the second mop and bring the sheet to the level of the frame made earlier.
As a result, the plasterboard sheet will be pressed to the ceiling in such a way as shown in the photo.

Then you can take a stepladder and fix the sheet on the frame using tapes for drywall. They must be screwed along the edge of the sheet and in those sites where profiles pass under the sheet. The distance between neighboring self-pressing should be 30-40 cm.

When screwing out the self-drawing, be sure to hold HOW. Because when screwing the self-reserves in the profile, the sheet can slightly move away from the surface. There is a danger that he will collapse with your backups.

The screw of the screw after the wrapping should not rise above the level of the sheet. It needs to be drunk a little, but at the same time not to destroy a fully sheet of cardboard that protects the gypsum from destruction.

Similarly, the installation of all other sheets is performed.

I perform the finish finish of the ceiling. To do this, it is necessary to sharpen places where the ships of the screws are visible, as well as the place of the junction of plasterboard sheets (fiberglass mesh is usually paved on the seams).

And further design depends on you. The most common option is putty and subsequent coloring.

Summary

I hope that the information provided is enough to, leaning on it, you could independently construct the plasterboard ceiling. Additional tips are available in the video in this article.

You can leave your opinion on the outlined information in the comments.