Making a stove in your home. Do-it-yourself rude stove: from a simple country house to a two-story for a house with a heated attic

The need for warmth and comfort in a private house arises already in the middle of autumn, and it's good if central heating... Those who have to independently heat their home will have to thoroughly prepare for the autumn-winter season. They can solve the problem today modern boilers or electric fireplaces, but they will not create that special unique atmosphere of living fire in the stove, accompanied by the crackling of wood. Therefore, it is quite correct if the question arises for you: "How to fold a brick oven with your own hands?" In this article, we will look at the process of creating a brick oven in stages, taking into account the diagrams and all the materials and tools necessary during the laying process. You just have to correctly repeat all the described processes, and you will become the owner of a solid home stove that will warm you on cold winter evenings.

It is very easy to make a brick oven if you have a clear idea of which type of oven will ideally fit into the conditions of your building. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with brief characteristics private houses, and already based on the information received, make the right choice. So, the types of ovens in relation to the type of buildings.

Stove in a wooden house. A stove of this type needs a very solid base. It is better to provide for the presence of a furnace even at the stage of building a house, then you can significantly reduce the cost of creating a foundation for furnace equipment. If the stove was not included in the house construction project, then you will have to spend money on partial dismantling of the floors and subsequent Finishing work... There is no other way out. The best option for wooden house there will be a compact stove made of bricks of a heating and cooking type of medium heat capacity, as well as a fireplace stove or an option with a bread maker.
Classic Russian stove for a cottage. This option is losing popularity due to the massiveness and complexity of the masonry. Such a large-sized stove with the functions of cooking, heating water, heating and a sleeping place, that is, a lounger, is very convenient, but it will not fit into a small house, and also requires the creation of an individual monolithic reinforced base.
Stove in a country house. Ideal for country house will become an oven with a hob and a heating water tank.
Stove in a cottage or in the country. A cottage and a summer house imply a visit only in a certain season or on weekends, which means that in such a structure it will be sufficient to install a small brick oven with hob... In this case, it is worth taking a closer look at the stove structure folded along summer version, when the heated air will be directed directly into the chimney, and not into the heat exchange channels.
Home stove with a bath. If a bathhouse is attached to your house, it is quite acceptable to build a brick heater with a built-in boiler for heating living quarters.
Barbecue oven. Such units are usually installed in attics, gazebos or summer kitchens. They can be modest in size or very impressive, but are equally used only for cooking, therefore they are equipped, for example, with hobs, ovens, barbecue grills, barbecue grills, cast-iron cauldrons, etc.

BBQ hob with oven

This is all that needs to be taken into account in order to correctly determine the type of suitable furnace equipment. You can move on.

Stove-maker's advice. When deciding on the choice of the size of the furnace structure, first of all, pay attention to such points as comfort of use and fire safety!

Stage 2. Building material: choice

When choosing a brick, you need to consider how resistant it will be to influence high temperatures, while the main emphasis should be on the integrity of the material after repeating the heating and cooling procedure. The characteristics of the brick as a building material will determine the life of the kiln. It is important!

Choosing a brick

Any brick is marked. One of them stands for density. For stoves, it is optimal to purchase bricks with markings from 75 to 250, while it is worth remembering that the denser the product, the more slowly the stove will have to be melted, and the slower it will heat up. On the other hand, a well-heated dense brick stove will slowly cool down, releasing its soft heat into the atmosphere.

If you plan to build a stove in a bath, it is better to choose the least dense brick (but above M100) so that it does not take a lot of time to kindle. And for appliances intended for heating living quarters and preparing meals, it is worth purchasing a denser brick.

It is worth knowing that the density indicator is not a sign of the quality of the brick. However, it is better to clarify the composition so as not to purchase goods with chemical impurities hazardous to health.

The next marking is the frost resistance of the product. This indicator is especially important (and should be the highest) for that part of the chimney, which is located above the roof. Frost resistance itself is the property of a product to absorb moisture, which deforms the material during crystallization. Best performance frost resistance in hollow facing bricks, while the inner part of the chimney can be laid out of solid red brick. High-quality products with a high level of frost resistance are produced in the Novgorod region, the city of Borovichi.

It is advisable to purchase red bricks made by plastic molding. There are few pores in these products, they withstand temperature changes well, the masonry does not crack even after long downtime ovens. Silicate products, pressed, cast by slip casting, raw raw materials are not suitable for the construction of furnaces.

Fireclay bricks made in accordance with GOST can withstand up to 1350 degrees. Such a brick can be used to build the entire furnace or use it only for lining the inner working surfaces of the furnace. For the masonry of the firebox, you can use straw-yellow products of the Sh8 brand with dark inclusions, fireclay bricks Ш22 - Ш45 are suitable for the furnace arch. However, this recommendation does not apply to sauna stoves, after all, fireclay bricks are operated only at a moisture content of less than 60%. In the bath, it is better to use clinker brick or ceramic refractory.

Fireclay brick prices

fireclay brick

How to check the quality of bricks:

if the product is dropped on the floor, it will split into large pieces. If the brick has crumbled, discard the batch;
if you touch a brick, it does not get dusty;
if a quality product is hit with a hammer, there will be a clear ringing continuous sound;
facets good brick even, the color is rich and even.

GOST 530-2012. CERAMIC BRICK AND STONE. Download file

GOST 8691-73. REFRACTORY PRODUCTS OF GENERAL PURPOSE. FORM AND SIZES. Download file

Choosing a mortar

Choice mortar – important point... If the solution is incorrect, the stove will smoke, and cracks may appear on the surface of the structure very soon.

Often masonry mortar prepared from river fine-grained sifted sand (grains of maximum 1.5 mm) and clay, which must be soaked before kneading for several hours. The soaked clay is rubbed through a sieve to get rid of lumps, because the masonry seam should not exceed five millimeters in thickness.

Clay mortar - preparation

The proportions for the clay mortar depend on the quality of the clay - the fatter it is, the more sand, but it is important not to make the mortar too thin, which will dry out and crack. It is recommended to do several test mixing of the solutions in order to determine the required proportions of sand and clay, while it is important to thoroughly stir the sand, adding it in several steps.

A test for fat content is done by taking half a fist of the material, wetting it and kneading it thoroughly, rolling a ball, and then putting and squeezing it between two smooth boards. If the ball was squeezed by a third of its diameter and no cracks appeared, then the solution is suitable for laying the furnace. Additional quality control - drying a ball with a diameter of 5 cm in air for 20 days. Dried ball good quality will not wrinkle when you press on it.

How much water to pour? We again make test mixes and check the degree of fluidity of the solution. We draw with a trowel over the mixed solution and look at the trail:

if it is torn, then there is not enough water;
if it swam almost instantly, there is an excess of moisture;
if the trace is clear and the edges are even, then the mortar is suitable for laying the stove.

Figures 5 and 6 show a trowel that has been dipped in a solution. In the first case, it is too greasy, there are streaky streaks on the trowel, you need to add a little sand, and in the second case (Fig. 6) the solution is good, the metal is slightly translucent, and the streaks are patterned.

Note! It is advisable to use soft water to mix the masonry mixture. Too hard, that is, 8 degrees or more, will reduce the strength of the mortar.

The last suitability test is carried out by spreading a layer of 3 mm on a bed of bricks. The second brick is glued to the first one, tapped with a mallet and wait up to 5-10 minutes. Within the specified time, both bricks should stick together. If the bricks do not spill even when shaken, the oven is guaranteed to last for a hundred years.

Note! For laying the firebox, either chamotte sand or a mixture of equal proportions of chamotte and quartz sand is added to the solution.

Video - Preparation of clay mortar for laying the furnace

Clay mortar for laying the foundation and fluffing the chimney is not used. For these elements, a classic cement mortar or with the addition of lime paste is used (cement M500 or M600 - 1 part, lime dough - from 9 to 16 parts).

Important! If you think that you will not be able to cope with the preparation, testing and mixing of the clay solution, purchase ready-made oven mixtures, for example, Terracotta (20 kg 306 rubles). For red bricks, a mixture with red clay is suitable, and refractory mixtures gray ideal for both red and fireclay bricks... Do not purchase ready-made mixtures containing cement.

Prices for cement M600

cement М600

Stage 3. Selection and calculation of the number of bricks for masonry

At the second stage, it is necessary to carry out the optimal calculation of the size of the brick oven. Having established the final size of the furnace structure, you can set the required amount of bricks. Single red solid brick has a fixed size of 250 (length) x 120 (width) x 65 (thickness) mm with a deviation of +/- 2 mm.

Refractory fireclay bricks, from which the firebox is laid out in almost all furnaces, are manufactured and marked in accordance with GOST 8691-73. See table for size information.

For one square meter of masonry in half a brick you will need:

excluding the mortar joint - 61 bricks;
taking into account mortar joints - 57 pieces and 0.011 cubic meters of masonry mortar.

Accordingly, for two meters of square brickwork, 122 or 113 full-bodied red bricks will be needed, and the estimated amount of mortar used will be 0.022 m3.

Please note that when laying in one brick, that is, if the wall thickness of the furnace is not 120, but already 250 mm, then for each square meter 128 or 115 bricks will be used, respectively, excluding and taking into account mortar joints, and the amount of masonry mixture will increase to 0.027 m3.

How is the simplified calculation of the approximate number of bricks for the entire furnace made:

the number of bricks in the first row is calculated;
the resulting value is multiplied by the number of oven rows;
the found number is multiplied by 0.8 (for heating devices) or 0.65 (for devices with a heating panel).

For example, let's calculate the number of bricks per oven measuring 90x90 cm. There are 3.5 bricks per 900 mm. That is, there will be 24.5 pieces in the first row. We multiply by the number of rows 24.5x30, we get 735 pieces. We accept a coefficient of 0.65x735 pcs. = 477.75 pcs., Round up to 480 and add 10% for rejection.

The number of bricks per pipe is calculated separately. Its height and design are taken in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 ("Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning") and SNiP 2.09.03-85 ("Chimneys"), which will be described in detail below. For a straight four-meter pipe you will need:

We consider: 4x56 = 224 pcs. Add another 56 bricks to the otter, cut and fluff and multiply the result by 10%. It remains only to add up the number of bricks for the stove with the same amount for the chimney.

You can more accurately calculate the amount of material by drawing up or taking into work an already existing ordering scheme, which shows the longitudinal and transverse sections of the furnace, recommendations for laying the chimney and the dimensions of all elements, including doors, are given.

This information can be used in practice, forming an individual plan for the costs of brick material.

It is worth noting: if you want to ultimately get a perfect brick stove that fits perfectly into your home, be as careful as possible, starting with the selection of the stove equipment and ending with its commissioning. This approach will allow you to enjoy your personal creation for a long time in the future.

Stage 4. Choosing a stove location

So, after you have decided on the type of stove, determined the area of the stove structure, and also selected the building material and mortar, proceed to choosing a place for installing the stove.

Usually, the stove is installed in one of the corners of the room or against the wall, which saves precious meters of living space.

The heating stove can be located in the center of the house, while simultaneously being in several adjacent rooms with its different faces, for example, a firebox will go into the kitchen, and three other walls will heat the rooms.

It is better to build a sauna stove near the door to the steam room. This will ensure the proper temperature and humidity conditions and allow the air masses to circulate effectively (provided that the exhaust and supply air vents are correctly located).

However, you need to remember about the distances between the surfaces of the stove, chimney and walls, ceiling. According to SNiP 2.04.05-91, it is worth adhering to the following distances:

Heating stoves, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for production and acceptance of works

Stone and furnace work. Downloads pdf

Stage 5. Foundation

A stove made of bricks has a large specific gravity, therefore, the structure cannot be installed without a reliable foundation.

The foundation for the furnace can be monolithic reinforced concrete, pile, columnar, lined with blocks, pile-screw.

Regardless of the type, the foundation of the stove should not be tied to the foundation of the house. The type of foundation is chosen, as for the house, starting from the type of soil.

Gravel-sandy soil allows you to equip a shallow foundation.
If the soil is clayey or sedimentary, it is better to fill the foundation on a crushed stone pad, while deepening it to the level of freezing.
In permafrost zones, a pile-screw base is installed, Special attention giving thermal insulation to the piles.
On dry rocky soils, the foundation may have minimum thickness or absent altogether.
Filled soil is not suitable for installing a brick oven.

Consider a method of arranging solid bases for a brick oven.

Step 1. Depending on the type of soil and the level of its freezing, we dig a pit. We take the width and shape based on the dimensions of the furnace and add 10-15 cm to its length and width, respectively. Pay attention to the location immediately ceiling beams overlaps - a chimney pipe will have to pass between them, and taking into account the deviations regulated by SNiP. It is also recommended to make a drainage (drainage) from the foundation of the furnace in order to reduce moisture and soil heaving.

Step 2. We ram the bottom of the pit and align it horizontally as much as possible. We fill in a ten-centimeter layer of small broken brick, rubble stone or rubble. We repeat the ramming procedure.

Step 3. We prepare a slurry (the ratio of cement and sand is 1 to 3) and fill the embankment with it.

to combine ten-centimeter layers of crushed stone backfill with cement filling... This option is acceptable for bases of shallow depth, namely up to 50 cm;
install reinforcement cage and fill it with concrete. The frame is knitted with a wire made of reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm. The size of the cells is 10x10 cm. A formwork is installed in the pit, the frame must be 5 cm away from its walls and bottom, for which they are used plastic clips or pieces of bricks. Concrete is poured inside, the mixture in the process of pouring is compacted with a deep vibrator or a metal bar. The upper pouring point should be 15 cm below the level of the finished floor;
pour a reinforced concrete slab, on top of which lay out the walls of the foundation of silicate or red brick, and fill the inner part with concrete with backfill (the loose aggregate should be less than or equal to the volume of concrete).

The first and third options for the bases are completed with a layer cement mortar... The filled layer is checked with a level and, if necessary, leveled with a rule or other suitable tool.

Further work is carried out after complete drying of the solutions used in the process of pouring the foundation.

Step 5. We lay the waterproofing in three layers, fix it with mastic (for roofing we use tar, for roofing material - bituminous).

Step 6... We lay out a continuous row of bricks. We put whole bricks at the edges, halves inside. The brick base should be 5-7 cm of the existing foundation, but 5-7 cm wider than the oven itself.

We do not use cement to bond the bricks together. On top of the masonry, which we also check for horizontalness, we put another layer of waterproofing, then we lay out the second layer of brick, observing the dressing between the two rows. The brick base, ideally, should be exactly level with the finished floor or rise above it by 3-4 cm.

Important note! Do not use bricks for construction that have been lying on the street all winter and have been repeatedly wet and freezing. Such products are capable of rapidly deteriorating, which will greatly reduce the service life of the furnace.

We fill the space between the foundation of the furnace and the house with river sand.

Stage 6. Do-it-yourself construction of a heater-heater. Step-by-step instruction

This project can be implemented both in a separate bathhouse and in a steam room attached to residential building... The stove does not have a tank for heating water and a heat exchanger, but it has a hob on which it is easy to heat water for 4-6 people. At the same time, the oven cools down very slowly, therefore warm water it will be even the next morning after the procedures, and in the room, even in winter, the temperature will not drop below +15 degrees for more than a day. The stove will provide heating for a steam room measuring 3.3x5 meters and with a ceiling height of 2 meters up to eighty degrees in about 5-6 hours.

The heater itself will be located in the steam room, and the fuel will be loaded from the rest room. Bath stones, which hold about 40 kg (soapstone), are loaded into a special oven, where they are heated evenly, so that the steam in the bath is dry and thick enough, hot.

The height of the furnace will be approximately 1.33 meters. The oven is square, side 0.89 meters. Using these data, calculate the dimensions of the foundation and lay / fill it in advance.

During the construction of the furnace (the chimney is not taken into account), the following will be used:

269 red bricks;
63 refractory bricks ША-8;
furnace door cast iron with dimensions of 0.21x0.25 m;
Stove door - example
blower door 0.14x0.25 m;
two cleaning doors 0.14x0.14 m;
grate 0.38x0.25 m;
two-burner hob made of cast iron 0.51x0.34 m;
oven for laying stones measuring 0.25x0.25x0.44 m;
one gate valve for the "summer" mode with dimensions of 0.13x0.13 m;
one chimney valve, size 0.13x0.25 m;
pre-furnace steel sheet with a size of at least 50x70 cm.

key in brickwork is a construction seam. It should be uniform in each row, carefully missed. Only in this way will you get the solidity of the furnace structure, and exclude smoke leakage from the fuel chamber. Follow the process very carefully;
before laying a brick, it must be well moistened. To do this, prepare a container with water and immerse the bricks in water for 5 to 10 minutes. This time is enough for the adhesion of clay and brick to be in the future high level... The wet brick after drying excludes the occurrence of cracks in the finished furnace structure. We keep the bricks in water until air bubbles stop coming out. Refractory bricks are not soaked, but only moistened with water;
before laying each subsequent row, use building level and a plumb line - the use of these tools in the workflow is a guarantee that the design will be free from geometric distortions and distortions.

We lay out the first row of red brick. In total, you will need 24 intact and one brick sawn in two. Lay the row very evenly, meter level check the horizontality along the sides and axes of the masonry. Use a tape measure to check the squareness and alignment. We adjust the bricks with a rubber hammer. We make the seams no more than five millimeters.

The second row does not differ from the first in either the quantity of brick or its quality. One has only to carefully observe the dressing between the two rows. It is better to start laying from the corners, gradually filling in the middle.

For the third row, take twenty red bricks and an ash chamber door. We lay sixteen bricks intact, four more we cut with a grinder or a hacksaw for metal with a tungsten carbide blade (see the drawing for the accuracy of cutting the elements).

Before cutting, we wet the brick and fix it securely. We observe safety precautions !!!

Brick cutting with a grinder - photo

Video - How to cut a brick

Video - Sawing oven brick with a grinder

We are not in a hurry to apply the solution, first we spread the entire row dry! Bricks must not be laid with the chipped (cut) side inside the firebox or chimney. It is also strictly forbidden to lubricate the inner surfaces of channels and furnaces with clay.

If the brick was laid unsuccessfully, we remove it, clean it of the mortar, soak it again, apply a new mortar with a trowel, and then re-adjust it.

In the same row we fix the door, for this we wrap the door frame around the perimeter with an asbestos cord, cover it with a solution, insert and twist a steel knitting wire (diameter 3-4 mm, length 1-1.2 m, the number of rods for twisting from 3 to 4 ) into the holes in the corners of the frame, and pass the resulting wire strands between the rows of bricks.

Fastening the door with wire - the upper ends of the wire are laid between the bricks

Installing the oven door - photo

Video - How to attach the wire to the door

Video - How to fix the furnace door of the blower

The mud and the weight of the bricks will hold the door frame securely.

Another way to install the door is using metal strips or plates widened at the ends. The elements are attached to the door frame by riveting, after which they are fixed in the masonry joints. If the plates are too thick, it is better to hew out grooves on the bricks.

The accuracy of the installation of the door is checked with a plumb line and level.

Advice. To make the cleanout door fit more accurately and accurately, remove the rectangular chamfer from the bricks that will be located along the perimeter of the door frame. That is, the opening for installing the door should be 5 mm longer and wider than the frame.

Don't worry if you only manage to lay out three rows in a day. Soaking, trimming, fitting and laying takes time, patience and neatness.

In the fourth row, we continue to form the ash chamber, additionally laying out the lower horizontal channel. The entire row will require 16 bricks. For the channel, we immediately put a door 0.14x0.14 m. The door can be fixed without asbestos, just with a solution, since in this place the temperature will be low, and the thermal expansion of the metal is minimal.

For the fifth row, take 16 and a half red bricks. We cut four of them obliquely to make the door overlap using the "lock" method. Lay the bricks with the chipped side up. We cut two more bricks obliquely, forming an overlap.

Row 6

In the sixth row, six and a half fireclay bricks and 12 red bricks will be used. It is shown on the diagram yellow... Lay out the base of the fuel chamber from the fireclay. We make slots for laying the grate. The opening for the lattice should be 5-7 mm larger than it, so that the expanding metal does not destroy the masonry. The space between the grate and the bricks (chamfers) is covered with sand.

Experienced stove-makers advise to lay the grate with a slight, up to three centimeters, incline towards the stove door.

We block the cleaning door with one brick.

In this row of 9 red and 5 fireclay bricks we form a fuel chamber. We cut the brick, which is placed in the back of the firebox, obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees.

We install the door using an asbestos cord. Door size 21x25 cm.

We also place a welded oven made of steel with a thickness of 8 mm. The back of the cabinet will be in the fuel chamber. The door of the cabinet is slightly less than its height, that is, it is raised, due to which the bath stones will not fall to the floor.

We carry out the laying according to the schemes-orders. For work, we take seven red and fireclay bricks.

For the ninth row, you will need 6.5 red and 7 fireclay bricks. We build the walls of the firebox.

In this row, using the "lock" method already discussed above, we block the fire door. The entire row will take 7 red, 8 fireclay bricks and 1 more fireclay hewn with a wedge.

We take 10 and a half fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks. We close the door and back oven... We lay bricks, connecting the firebox with the nearest vertically located channel. Another channel is formed above the cabinet - we install a door there.

We take 12 red and 9 fireclay bricks. We make the shrinkage, as shown in the diagram, and we also make a recess for the hob, taking into account the required five-millimeter gaps. We put the hob 51x34 cm, we do not use the solution.

We install the valve in the near vertical channel. For installation metal element make cuts in the brick, as shown in the diagrams. The far vertical channel, starting from this row, bifurcates.

Gate valve in the furnace - photo

For work, we take 9 fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks.

We begin to form a decorative niche, for which we use 15.5 red bricks. We no longer use chamotte.

We combine the near channel and the central one. We use 13.5 bricks.

We continue laying in order. We take 14 and a half bricks.

We block the far channel and the central one. We cut off two bricks above the niche obliquely to make the castle floor. We also obliquely grind the brick over the hob. We put the wedge brick in the castle. Consumption per row - 18 pcs.

We shut off the oven completely, except for the near channel. In this channel we make cuts to install a 13x25 cm gate valve. Above the slab, we cut another brick obliquely. Consumption - 16 pcs.

Of 17 and a half bricks, we make a second overlap, leaving only a 13x13 cm smoke channel.

From four bricks we form the base of the chimney pipe.

With the bandaging we put the second row of the pipe.

Video - Description of the construction of the furnace

The inner surfaces of the stove should be as smooth as possible so that soot does not accumulate on them, therefore, during the laying process, the protruding clay must be cleaned or scraped off.

How to dry the oven? We leave the unit with open valves and doors for about a week. Without closing the doors, we put quite a bit of fuel into the firebox to warm up the walls a little. The next day we repeat the operation, increasing the amount of fuel. In this case, we do not close the doors. When there are no wet traces on the walls and no condensation on the valve, the stove is ready for the first real firebox.

Video - Do-it-yourself stove in the bath

Video - Drying the oven

After drying, the stove can be heated and the draft can be checked in it by opening the latches, then holding the burning match to the open door of the firebox. If the flame deviates inside the furnace, then there is a draft.

The draft depends on the chimney, which in turn must be at least five meters long, if you count from the grate. More precisely, the height of the chimney above the roof can be determined from the picture. But remember that raw pipes will have a slightly weaker draft.

It is recommended to whitewash the brick pipe in two layers with chalk or lime, so that leaks of furnace gases become immediately noticeable. The defective pipe is repaired immediately. Above the roof, the chimney pipe must be plastered, and for masonry, a cement, cement-lime or simply lime mortar is used, the brick is chosen of the highest quality, without chips, cracks, or other defects.

Do not forget to clean the stove - in the spring if you plan to heat the sauna in the summer and twice a year if you use it constantly. If cracks appear, seal them immediately. clay mortar by applying and leveling it with a trowel.

Video - How to fold the oven with your own hands

Video - Laying the first row of bricks

The construction of complex options for stove structures is a painstaking process that requires a lot of patience, knowledge, skills and financial costs. Therefore, if funds are available, it is recommended to seek the help of professionals. And those who want to build a furnace with their own hands should study the advice of specialists on choosing a competent project and high-quality equipment.

Performing accurate calculations and strict adherence to the masonry scheme will allow you to obtain a reliable heating unit and, with its further use, will provide protection against ignition and poisoning. carbon monoxide... Therefore, any stove must meet the basic requirements - not to smoke, to supply heat and to guarantee fire safety. It is better for beginners to choose simple model devices to independently carry out high-quality laying of the stove.

Construction tools and equipment

For installation works are used:

acute-angled and rectangular sledgehammers;
plumb line;
staples (mooring);
combined trowel;
hammer;
rammers;
putty knife;
level, square and tape measure;
meter (folding);
seam joints, markings for openings, templates for channels;
brick and clay (red);
cement;
sand;
grate;
doors, plate (cast iron) and latches;
aluminum and steel fittings (corners and strips).

Procedure

1. First stage.

To make sure that the calculations are accurate, they first perform the laying according to the finished unit scheme, but without using the mixture. The stove is mounted on a foundation that complies with all technical safety rules. To do this, a pit is dug (1 m deep), where sand is poured (11 cm layer), and concrete is loaded from above. Then, on the hardened surface, following the instructions, place a quadrangle of bricks, which will serve as the basis for the furnace. Using a level, check the horizontality of the masonry. A couple of bricks are moistened with water so that they are easier to bond with the mortar, place them on the mixture and press down (slightly), and remove the excess with a spatula and continue the further construction process according to the same principle.

Roofing material (triple layer) is laid on the first level, which performs a waterproofing function. Before performing the 2nd row, attach special brackets a blower door for the oven, wrapped in damp asbestos cardboard. The third level should consist of fireclay bricks, here a grate is placed above the blower. Laying of building material on the 4th tier occurs on the edge. A chimney is built inside the furnace. On the rear surface of the device, the masonry is made without a mixture so that its edges move slightly out of the main row, which will make it easier to clean the smoke passage holes from debris.

The firebox door is wrapped with an asbestos cord and fixed on the 5th tier with bricks (temporarily) and wire. The material at this level of the masonry, as in the main part of the furnace, is located flat (along the contour of the previous layer). The edges of the sixth row of the device are cut off, the grate is fixed flush, and the bricks are placed on the edge. It is recommended to wipe the chimney with a damp cloth. The brick (at the 7th level) is laid out flat, and on the back wall of the furnace, a couple of pieces are attached to the edge. The fire door is covered with the eighth tier of masonry.

2. Second stage.

Further, work on the furnace continues according to the finished scheme until the beginning of the twelfth row. On this tier, a cast iron plate is mounted on the mortar (with a slight displacement back), and an asbestos cord runs along the perimeter of the masonry, which is covered with corners from above. The baking sheets are supported by steel strips inserted into the walls of the cooking chamber and reinforced from the fourteenth row, after 2 subsequent ones, to the twentieth. This tier accommodates: a corner, a frame and an exhaust duct made of sheet metal. Before installing the chimney, the gap between its lining and the ceiling is filled with asbestos.

3. Third stage.

After making the heating unit with your own hands, the chimney is cleaned, temporary bricks are removed and the Painting works... The oven surface is dried before plastering and lime whitewash... A mixture of clay, asbestos, sand and cement is used as a coating. First, according to the instructions, on outside the masonry is applied with a liquid layer of the composition, and after it dries, it is denser. Whitewash oven lime mortar With salt. Drying oil or oil dyes are not suitable for covering masonry, as when heated, they emit vapors that are harmful to health.

1. When building a furnace with your own hands, strong and properly fired bricks should be used, with a flat surface and without various damages, since its functioning and duration of use will depend on their quality. The strength of this material is determined independently. To do this, using a hammer, it is necessary to break one brick, if it breaks up into large pieces, then it is suitable for use in the masonry process. In the area where the fire is made, a refractory type is used that can withstand strong heat.

2. The reliability of the kiln structure depends on the optimal ratio of sand and clay in the solution. A composition with a plastic and thick consistency is considered to be of high quality.

3. The thickness of the seams is from 3 to 5 mm.

4. Pre-prepared grooves in the bricks, intended for the installation of the grate, flaps and doors, provide the latter with a longer work. The depth of the grooves must correspond to the thickness of the casting.

5. Bricks on tiers of masonry are placed as tightly as possible to each other. During the construction of the furnace, the procedure is constantly checked against the finished device diagram, which allows you to control its exact observance.

6. The gap between the masonry and the floor is hidden by installing a pre-furnace sheet made of iron or a plinth. To protect the corners of the structure from possible damage, it is advised to attach protective devices to the frames (using bolts).

7. It is permissible to start operation 14 days after completion of installation work. It is recommended to start hardening the unit by burning thin chips to prevent cracking. After the end of the combustion process, following the operating instructions, the chimney is closed with valves.

Cost of materials and wages

Self-construction of a stove is much cheaper compared to the services of a skilled worker. The minimum price for the work of a foreman starts from 25,000 rubles and is negotiated individually when concluding a contract. Payment for work and cost of masonry for different kinds stoves are determined taking into account their volume, design features and location in the house. The purchase price of a building material and its quantity required for the construction of the selected type of structure, design and color scheme are the main indicators in determining the final payment. Important role the types of cladding also play. Decorating with tiles costs 1200–2500 rubles per 1 m2 (excluding the amount for masonry equipment).

Average cost of building supplies:

The cost of a brick varies from 20 to 150 rubles per piece. The difference in prices is also present when buying castings and other materials for masonry. If a door for a Russian-made firebox costs 400 rubles, then an imported one costs 4,000. One bag of ready-made mixture for the construction of a furnace (consumption for 35 bricks) is 400. The estimated price of masonry is determined only after a thorough study of the future design, taking all measurements.

During the construction of the stove, it may be necessary to purchase additional equipment. The calculation of costs also takes into account the cost of delivery and unloading of materials for masonry, which is assigned by carriers.

Articles

According to professional stove-makers, there are no big difficulties in laying a brick heater. Any man can handle the job. It is enough to take ready-made drawings as a basis and familiarize yourself with the technology of laying stoves with your own hands. A selection of video lessons with step-by-step instructions will be a good help in learning a new business. It is better to start practical exercises with simple options ovens.

Detailed acquaintance with the installation of a ceramic brick kitchen heater with a three-channel shield and a vertical chimney. The oven measures 3 x 3.5 bricks at the base and 22 lines (160 cm) high.

Please note that the weakest and most problematic part of the tile is the fire door in the 7th row of the masonry. For reliable installation, use the installation of cast iron elements on a corner or wire with and without nails.

Simple brickwork of a heater for a 2-room house with a total area of 30 m 2. The heat capacity of the furnace is 3.5 kW / h. Has a summer and winter version warming up. It is important to remember that on the 8th row, a summer run valve is installed, which allows you to cook food without heating the room. The order of your actions must be constantly checked against the drawings, observing the dressing and the density of the masonry.

The installation of a chimney in the attic space is carried out taking into account measures fire safety... So, the distance from the brick surface to the nearest wooden structures should be at least 35 cm. In the place where the nozzle pipe passes into the ceiling, a horizontal cut is made - the expansion of the walls by 20-30 mm thanks to the fire-prevention asbestos gaskets.

For the convenience of installation work, you need to make a disposable formwork. The arcuate bend is first reproduced in the drawing, then transferred to the plywood. The resulting circles are installed in the span of the furnace vault and fixed.

When laying the bricks, they are tightly fitted to each other and reliable overlapping seams are made. The last line of the arch is closed with a closing element, forcibly driving it between the rows. Plywood formwork is removed after complete drying. arched structure.

1. A high-quality mortar is a guarantee of reliable masonry of the stove. The clay-sandy composition should have a thick and plastic consistency. Excess sand will not be able to strengthen the structure and will cause the seams to collapse. Increased clay content will lead to significant sagging and cracking of the joints. The optimum ratio of components is achieved empirically.

2. It is better to choose ceramic bricks for ovens of the M-250 or 500 brands. Its cost is higher than that of the M-100 or 150, but it has a homogeneous structure and is able to withstand a long cycle of the heating process. The excellent quality of the base material fully compensates for the money spent on it.

3. The brick must have correct shape and uniform firing. First, all the elements are dry laid out and only then they are planted in the solution. Before laying, the brick must be soaked in water. When air bubbles stop coming out of it, you can take it to work.

4. The first row is located strictly horizontally, it sets the required geometric parameters of the furnace. The seams should be even with a thickness of 3-5 mm. Horizontal lines are checked for level.

5. The finishing masonry of the facing row of the furnace is provided thanks to the masking tape. This will facilitate the work and will not allow you to constantly be distracted by the control of the outside.

6. The grate, doors, dampers will last much longer if they are placed in the prepared grooves in the brick. The depth of the cut corresponds to the thickness of the hardware. The blower and furnace doors are fixed to the oven masonry using wire or steel strips.

7. The dampers close the chimney at the end of the furnace or when the gas flows are switched. For free movement of the shutter between the rows of masonry, a frame is mounted.

The oven is operated only after the entire structure has completely dried. The stove must be allowed to stand for at least one week. It is not recommended to immediately load the stove with wood - a sharp temperature drop can crack. For gradual heating and hardening of the firebox, you need to start the ignition with thin chips.

Masonry cost heating furnace

The price depends, first of all, on the qualifications of the stove-maker and the quality of his work. The following factors affect the total amount:

device model;
the location of the oven in the room;
main material;
the size and shape of the firebox;
availability of summer and winter channels;
number of valves;
pipe sleeve;
the complexity of the cladding.

The approximate cost of laying a heating stove:

Price Supplies is 12 300 rubles. The minimum cost of work for laying ovens starts from 25,000. Thus, the simplest heater made of ceramic bricks will cost no less than 37,000.

Brick stoves for the home are often the only way to equip heating at home, in the country or in a cottage. In brick heating stoves maximum value The efficiency reaches 85%: this is due to the fact that their design does not include "heat consumers", which take a lot of heat energy.

Brick ovens for home

Brick heating stoves are quite simple to manufacture and operate. The reason for these qualities is a narrow area of application - for heating premises, (they are not intended for cooking food, etc.).

Brick ovens for the home are also sometimes called "Dutch".

Brick ovens for home

In houses and dachas, Dutch women are most often used, in which the thickness of the walls is equal to half of the brick. If you heat such stoves one to two times a day, you can easily provide comfortable temperature conditions in a medium-sized room.

Taking into account the dimensions of heating furnaces, they use two main methods of smoke circulation:

in small Dutch women, where the firebox and the stove itself have common walls, the location of the bell-type smoke channels is at the top;
for large stoves, a combined smoke circulation system is used, in which the location of the smoke channels is carried out from the sides of the firebox and above it.

Dutch oven for home corner type

Another type of heating stoves is the "Dutch" corner type. Since they have an angular shape, these stoves are characterized by the fact that they take up less space, which allows you to significantly increase the usable area of the room by installing the stove in a corner.

Corner brick ovens are often installed because there is no way to make a rectangular foundation.
To heat 2 storey house or a cottage, use bunk brick heating stoves. An autonomous stove with its own firebox is installed on each floor.

Modern heating stoves include a grate. With the help of this solution, it became possible to deliver oxygen to the place of combustion of firewood, in those volumes that are necessary to ensure combustion. This is the reason that the combustion of the fuel occurs at an intensive rate, and with more uniformity. New smoke exhaust systems make it possible to reduce the length of the smoke ducts. The smoke enters the flue gas circulation of the stove before being cooled by excess air.

The aforementioned has made it possible to make modern heating stoves more compact, to reduce the time spent on the furnace, as well as to improve the efficiency.

The scheme of laying a stove for a house is the first thing that a person who decides to equip in his home with heating with a stove will need. In this material, we will consider what schemes for laying home brick stoves exist, what are their features and differences.

The laying of a stone stove can be done in the following ways:

1.in cut;
2.with empty seams;

When arranging the stove according to the first method, plastering of the stove is not required, since all the joints are filled with mortar. The wall thickness of the kiln determines the way the bricks are stacked. The walls are laid out with the thickness of one brick, and half a brick. Sometimes, you can find a masonry of 3.4 bricks.
For work on arranging the furnace, you must definitely use oven brick... It is also called "red brick", full-bodied. Under no circumstances should you use bricks that were taken from any dismantled building, expanded clay blocks or slot bricks.

The first row is laid simply with bricks, without using mortar. The brick is equal, the front wall is determined, the places in which all the doors will be located. These operations can be called the last "guess". When these actions are performed, the bricks are laid down with mortar.

After that, they begin to lay the corners. The next stage, according to the advice of experts, is the arrangement of the contour of the entire stove. Using plumb lines, a string is stretched from the ceiling to the corners of the stove. With these vertical lines, you can easily navigate while working.

Given the model of the stove you have chosen, you should determine the areas in which they will be located: the blower, the combustion chamber, the ash pan. The door under the blower is installed when the third row of bricks is laid out, after one row the ash pan is laid out.

After that, the firebox is being arranged. Each door is secured with fired wire. When you get to laying out the vault, you will need to cut the bricks. A calculation will be required to ensure good joining of bricks to each other. Laying the vault begins after the second row of bricks has been laid after the firebox door.

For the lining of the combustion chamber, special refractory bricks are used. Insofar as facing brick and masonry bricks have different temperature characteristics, then the installation of the cladding to the furnace itself should not be performed rigidly. During the installation of the chimney pipe, care should be taken to equip a special valve, the adjustment of which should be done smoothly and without difficulty.

Brick ovens for home - video instruction

Despite the multitude of modern heating methods, the stove does not lose its popularity. It can still be found in many country houses to maintain comfort and create a supportive atmosphere.

However, the stove will serve for a long time and with high quality, giving off heat, only if the following questions are answered:

Where is the best place to place the stove?
What materials and tools are needed for work?
What should be the oven grout?
How to correctly lay the stove?

Where to place the stove correctly?

When considering how to fold the stove with your own hands, you need to correctly place it. For this, the following conditions are taken into account:

The walls of the smoke channel must be located at a distance of at least 40 cm from wooden structures
The chimney is allowed to be brought out on the same level with the ridge ledge if it is located at a distance of 1.5-3 m
If the distance from the ridge ledge to the chimney is 1.5 m or less, the latter should be 0.5 m higher
If the pipe is removed more than 3 m from the ridge ledge, its height can be made lower, but the angle between the roof slope and the lines that connects the upper cut of the pipe and the ridge should not exceed 10 degrees

Read also the guide on how to do it yourself

The base of the house and the stove have their own specific features, therefore, it is not permissible to combine them with each other.

Materials and tools

Regardless of the type of furnace chosen, the work on their construction is very similar, and the structures themselves have minor functional differences between themselves. From the technical point of view, they will differ in their versatility, the degree of impact and size.

The initial building materials for the construction brick ovens serve:

wire
lime with sand
brick

When purchasing the latter, you need to convince of its correct form and a sufficient level of firing.

To prepare the solution, you can use refractory, red or even ordinary clay. You will also need ancillary equipment that can be purchased in the markets:

Necessary doors and flaps
Views and valves
Grates
Hotplates, etc.

In addition to materials and components for the stove, you will need to prepare a set of working tools (level, plumb line, milk brush, as a rule, a stove-maker's hammer, level, etc.).

Preparing the mortar for laying the stove

The mortar for a home brick stove is a clay-sand mixture. Sand must be sieved through a sieve so that its mesh size does not exceed 1.5 mm. At this time, the clay should be soaked in water for 2-3 days. It will not be superfluous to pass the finished solution through a sieve (3x3 mm). Each stove-maker chooses proportions for himself.

After mixing sand and clay, you need to add water and start stirring the resulting mixture until a thickness similar to fat sour cream is formed. A high-quality mortar should be laid on the brick in a bunch and spread with a layer of 4-5 cm (recommended joint thickness).

Brick kiln ordering

When everything you need is assembled, and the foundation has managed to solidify reliably, they begin to solve the main question of how to fold the stove with your own hands - brickwork. It should be noted that there are a huge variety of ordering options, and only one will be considered further - the Swede. It is great for heating and cooking. Before starting work, it is recommended to hold the brick in water for up to 10 minutes.

All information about the furnace should be displayed in the drawings. They can reflect both the entire structure and its individual parts or cutouts. For each row, horizontal dimensions are given - orders.

Alternatively, you can use an electric boiler to heat the room ...

The most important is the first row - it is necessary to strictly control the angles, vertical and horizontal. Having made mistakes, even insignificant ones to the eye, they will make themselves felt in the future.

It is customary to place the blower in a niche on the right side. But to make it easier to remove ash from it, in the direction of the chamber, the inner sides are combed under a cone. Very often you will not have to use a whole brick, but a certain part of it. It is better to cut the pieces with a special diamond-coated disc, but do not beat off with a hammer.

After installing the blower door, the laying of the second row begins. In this case, a ligation is made with an offset of 30-50% for greater structural stability.

The height of the third row should line up with the top edge of the door. In this case, it is necessary not to forget to cut off the edges of the brick, forming a cone inside the blower for easier ash removal.

The fourth row fits on the left. First, a cleaning door is mounted. A U-shaped canal is made. A square hole must be laid out above the ash pan, while blocking the blower door.

The fifth row practically does not differ from the fourth, but the hole above the ash pan needs to be narrowed a little more.

It is necessary to prepare the refractory brick before proceeding with the laying of the sixth row (it will be in place of the hatching). If this is not possible, the usual one will do. In this case, the grate must be supported on the fifth row. A small compensating gap of up to 15 mm is required between it and the bricks, which is filled with sand or a hall.

In the seventh row, it is necessary to block the previously formed U-shaped channel so that it forms three new ones. A door for the furnace is placed on the sixth row.

The eighth and ninth rows are laid in the same way as the seventh. They should reach the top of the firebox door.

In order for the flue gases to smoothly pass into the channel from the furnace, it is necessary to comb out the bricks that block the left channel and the furnace partition.

Laying out the tenth row, you need to monitor its strict verticality. A cooking deck will be laid on top of it, which cannot be mowed, otherwise it will be extremely inconvenient to cook. The furnace door is completely closed and two strictly square channels are left.

The question of how to fold a brick oven with your own hands in half is resolved. The cooking deck closes the combustion chamber, resting on the tenth row. The edge of the bricks, which will be in contact with it, should be combed, forming a gap of up to 2 cm.A small door for the furnace is immediately installed and the eleventh row is laid out. Two square channels remain on the left.

The twelfth and thirteenth rows fit almost the same. The main difference is that at first both square channels are connected into a single one, and in the next row they are again separated.

The fourteenth row is installed by analogy with the previous one, but in it one channel is blocked by a damper. When closed, it will be possible to use the cooking stove, preventing the stove from heating up.

In the fifteenth row, the valve is closed, and in the sixteenth, the door of the combustion chamber is closed. In order to remove odors and ventilate the brewing compartment, it is necessary to install a door between it and the channel already closed by the valve.

In the seventeenth row, it is necessary to lay steel strips above the cooking room, which will allow to block the chamber. In a conventional heating furnace, a domed ceiling would have to be built.

The next two rows cover the brewhouse, but both square channels remain intact.

On the surface of the hob, two bricks are placed on the edge, distant from back wall 40 cm. doors for cleaning and a samovar pipe are immediately mounted. By analogy, the next row fits.

In the twenty-second row, you must close the doors. Three longitudinal channels (11, 5 and 11 cm, respectively) are made above the cooking chamber, on the left - all the same two square ones. In the twenty-third row, the longitudinal channels are covered with bricks laid across. The next row is done in the same way.

By analogy with the twenty-second, rows 25-26 are laid.

In the twenty-seventh row, three bricks must be laid at the same distance and distance from the walls. This leaves only one square channel. By analogy, the next two rows fit.

In the thirtieth row, it is necessary to completely block the thermal chamber, leaving one smoke channel, which is blocked by a valve. The next two rows are stacked with a slight offset relative to each other. Three such rows guarantee fire safety.

It remains to equip a simple chimney for the stove.

Detailed video instructions for laying a stove with your own hands

In custody

The given order of the Shvedka oven is one of the most common today. It not only makes it possible to heat the room, but also to prepare food. Increasingly, this design can be found in country country houses.

But the question of how to fold the stove with your own hands turned out to be difficult and there is no confidence in your efforts - before starting work, you should contact a stove-maker or a person who has already erected such structures. He will surely give a lot of valuable advice.