Do-it-yourself installation of a chain-link mesh. Installing a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands - step by step instructions

The chain-link mesh is ideal for fencing summer cottages. This material provides free penetration of sunlight, creating the impression of an open area, does not impede the circulation of air currents and does not shade the area. At the same time, a mesh fence does an excellent job with protective functions and, being relatively inexpensive in construction, is very popular in the arrangement of summer cottages, country houses, technical and sports areas, utility facilities, etc.

The invention of this material is the merit of the German bricklayer Karl Rabitz, who at the end of the 19th used it for the first time when plastering walls. Today, woven metal mesh is used for temporary or stationary fencing of territories. It is made of low-carbon steel wire of round cross-section by means of "flat" knitting in one leno.

The cellular structure provides high resistance of the web to stretching and tearing, therefore the main advantage of the material is reliability in operation.

There are several varieties of chain-link mesh available on the market:

Non-galvanized.

It is made of "black" wire, therefore it requires high-quality protection against corrosion. It is used for the construction of temporary fences and requires periodic painting renewal. The service life of an unprotected mesh is 2-3 years, while a non-galvanized canvas covered with paint is capable of performing its functions for 7-10 years.

Galvanized.

Zinc protects mild steel well from rust, but adds to the overall cost of the material. Nevertheless, it is this type of Rabitz mesh that is in the highest demand due to its durability and ease of maintenance - such a fence does not require painting and copes well with any climatic conditions.

Plasticized.

The chain-link mesh, covered with polymer, looks more attractive than its "naked" counterparts - in its production, dyes are used, which provides room for design ideas when arranging a summer cottage. Moreover, such a canvas is not at all afraid of moisture and frost, therefore it serves as long as possible, without losing either its appearance or protective properties.

Mesh size and type of canvas

The chain-link mesh differs not only in the type of wire, but also in the shape and size of the mesh. The latter can be rectangular, square, diamond-shaped or otherwise - ultimately, the shape matters only when implementing a particular design solution. But the closest attention should be paid to the cell size when choosing a mesh for the construction of a fence - options from 25-60 mm and more are available on the market.

The smaller the cell, the stronger the canvas, but the less light it transmits. On the other hand, large cells will not cope with the protection of the site from the penetration of stray animals or poultry from the neighboring garden. Therefore, the Rabitz mesh should be wiped based on the specific purpose of the application.

The optimal solution for the construction of a fence at a summer cottage is a chain-link mesh with a cell size of 40-50 mm - this is quite enough to prevent unauthorized entry into the territory of intruders, as well as large animals.

When buying a mesh, the thickness of the wire, the size and type of fabric also matter. The material is produced in rolls with a height of 1.5 m and more - this size is ideal for fencing summer cottages, although a 2-meter canvas can also be used. The highest demand is for a mesh made of wire with a thickness of 2-2.5 mm - a thick mesh is more expensive and has a greater weight, which affects the choice of material for the support posts and complicates the method of their installation. As for the type of blade, it can have folded lower ends and twisted upper ends. It is quite difficult to overcome such a fence, so it is an excellent solution for fencing summer cottages, where life is in full swing mainly on weekends, and even then only in the warm season.

How to buy a chain-link mesh

In order to build a fence in the shortest possible time, you need to carefully prepare for work. To do this, you need to decide on the materials and calculate their amount, as well as clear and mark the territory.

The first step is to measure the perimeter of the site and choose a place where the gate and wicket will be installed. You need to buy a chain-link mesh with a certain margin, because the rolls will overlap. As corner supports, it is worth choosing a profiled square pipe (optimally 6x6 cm) - they will bear the main load from the fence structure. As for the intermediate support pillars, they can be made from a square or rectangular profiled pipe with a smaller section (4x4 or 4x6 cm).

Among the main disadvantages of the chain-link mesh is the lack of stability. This means that a frame is needed to mount the canvas. It is made in two ways:

the upper and lower parts of the adjacent supports are connected by reinforcement, to which the stretched mesh fabric is attached with the help of ties;

sections of the fence are made from a metal corner, to which the chain-link mesh is welded or attached with ties threaded into the previously made holes.

The first method is simpler and cheaper to implement, however, it provides only minimal aesthetics and practicality of the fence in operation. For the manufacture of the same frame from the corner, additional funds will be needed, but such a fence will look more attractive and will be able to cope with significant loads.

To avoid sagging of the fence, the support posts should be installed at a distance of no more than 3 m from each other.

Site marking and installation of support pillars

Having calculated the required amount of materials, you can start preparing the territory for construction. The area along the line of the future fence must be freed from vegetation and cleaned of debris and various obstacles.

The marking of the territory begins with marking the points at which the corner and gate supports will be installed. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the size of the section of the column - it will "look" into the area. At the points of location of the main pillars, metal or wooden pegs are hammered, which are connected to each other using a nylon cord. Further, in the same way, points are marked at which intermediate supports will be installed.

Both when marking the territory, and already in the process of installing the support pillars, the nylon cord helps to control the linearity of the fence and its height along the entire perimeter.

If the soil in the area being developed is not heaving and contains a small percentage of sand, the support poles can be installed by driving or screwing in. Both for the first and for the second support it is necessary to prepare. The lower end of the profiled pipe should be closed (preferably welded), however, to simplify the driving process, a metal cone can be additionally welded to it. If the supports will be installed using the screw method, they must be equipped with a blade that will allow you to screw the pole into the ground without much difficulty.

For driving or screwing in, it is necessary to prepare a hole with a depth equal to 0.3-0.5 installation depth. To the desired level, the support is hammered with a sledgehammer or twisted with a special lever.

The depth of installation of the support should be at least 20 cm below the soil freezing line - this will ensure the stability of the fence when the seasons change.

Frame installation and mesh tension

The standard length of the netting roll is 10 m. If the distance between adjacent supports in your area is 2.5 m, this means that one roll should be enough for just 4 spans. However, due to the uneven distribution of the support posts, the web may end in the middle of the section. In this case, two separate rolls are overlapped: the loops of 1 or 2 of the outer rows of the net must be opened and an equal number of rows of the next piece must be woven here.

If you abandoned the idea with frame sections from corners and are going to use reinforcement, you will have to "put on" the mesh on it. To do this, the roll should be installed in a vertical position, unfold and thread the reinforcement pieces along the canvas in the upper and lower parts of it. Next, the mesh must be pulled, after which the rods are welded to the support pillars.

In the corners between the reinforcement and the support post, it is recommended to install screeds or weld the mesh - this will prevent the tension from loosening both during installation and already during the operation of the fence.

With the frame, things are a little different: first, the corners are welded, after which the canvas itself is mounted on the section. It can be welded to the frame or secured with ties. In the second case, it is advisable to make small holes at the attachment points at the corners.

Finishing touches

The service life of the chain-link fence can be extended if metal elements and welded joints are protected from corrosion. To do this, the welding points must be carefully cleaned, and the support pillars and frame elements (reinforcement or corners) must be primed and painted. At the end, a cable or wire is additionally threaded into the upper row of cells, around which the tendrils of the mesh edge are twisted - this gives the fence a complete look and prevents the outer loops of the canvas from unwinding.

Do-it-yourself chain-link fence (video)

Installation of a chain-link fence is considered the most popular option for arranging a metal fence around a private house, country cottage and many other objects. Its cost is low, and the installation of such a fence can be done by hand.

1 Varieties of mesh-netting for fences

The mesh we are interested in is currently presented on the construction market in three variations:

The indicated types of mesh can have cells of different shapes (diamond-shaped and rectangular ones are popular), which are described by different geometric parameters (the standard cell size varies within 2.5-6 centimeters). For fencing land and summer cottages, it is recommended to install a grid with cells of 4-5 centimeters.

2 Installation of a mesh-netting fence - what materials are required?

Do-it-yourself installation of fences of this type does not cause difficulties even for those people who rarely do something on their own. The main thing is to calculate everything correctly and purchase the required amount of mesh and additional materials. The latter include:

concrete (usually an inexpensive M200 grade material is used);
special mounts;
support posts made of metal, wood or concrete.

In most cases, the installation of chain-link fences is carried out using metal supports. Such pillars are rightfully considered the most reliable and truly durable. Experts advise purchasing pillars of a square or round profile with a cross section of 6-12 centimeters.

When doing work with their own hands, resourceful citizens use old ones as supports, which significantly reduces the cost of installing a fence. But it is better, of course, to buy ready-made poles made specifically for arranging fences. To such supports (usually they are sold in a painted form), special hooks are initially welded.

It makes sense to use wood poles only in cases where it is planned to install a temporary fence or if there is a free (very cheap) wooden material. Please note that the bark must be removed from the support beams and poles, and the part of the tree that will be buried in the ground must be carefully coated with mastic with high waterproofing properties.

In many respects, concrete pillars are in no way inferior to metal ones (they do not rust, they are very durable, therefore they can stand literally for centuries), but their cost is quite high. In addition, it is not easy to attach the mesh to such supports - it is required to braid the concrete structure with a steel cable, use clamps. This makes installation much more difficult.

There are two ways to equip a chain-link fence with your own hands:

fix the wire in sections (frames) made of a metal corner;
stretch the mesh between the supports.

Installation of a sectional fence, as you yourself understand, requires additional costs. But from the point of view of aesthetics, it looks more preferable. But the second option for arranging the fence with your own hands can be implemented much faster without investing excessive finances in the fence. We will consider it in more detail.

3 How is the installation of tension fences made of a chain-link mesh?

At the first stage of the installation work, you need to mark the territory. For these purposes, small pegs should be placed in the corners of the site, take a cord or construction thread and pull them between the stakes. The resulting length of the thread will tell us how many meters of the chain-link mesh will need to be purchased (we advise you to add a couple more meters of wire just in case).

After that, we will decide on the places where we will drive in the supports. It is recommended to install the poles at a distance of 2.5 meters from each other (a greater distance cannot be taken, since the mesh we use is a sagging material). To calculate the number of required supports, measure the length of each side of the future fence and divide the resulting number by 2.5. If your fence will have a total length of 50 meters, you will need exactly 20 support posts, if 60 meters - 30, and so on.

The installation of the pillars is carried out in prepared recesses in the ground (they can be made with an ordinary shovel and a drill). The optimum depth of the pits is 120–150 centimeters. Please note that you first need to install supports at the corners of the site, and only then mount other pillars. On the bottom of the grooves for the pipes, rubble is poured (in an even layer), tamped, and then a layer of ordinary sand is added and tamping is also performed.

We begin to put pillars in properly prepared pits. This must be done strictly vertically (it is best to use a plumb line). After that, recesses with pipes are poured with a solution made of cement (two parts), sand (one part), crushed stone (one part) and water. First, sand and cement are mixed, then crushed stone and water are added. The mixture must be thoroughly mixed in order to obtain a solution that is not very liquid, but also not "tough".

After the installation of all the pillars is completed, the first stage of work on arranging the fence with your own hands can be considered completed. The concrete will take 6-8 days to harden.

In principle, it is possible to fill the support pipes not with concrete, but use a mixture of soil with rubble stone. Then you don't have to wait a week for the concrete to harden. But in this case, the pillars may not hold so reliably, so it is better to use a solution of concrete, crushed stone and sand.

4 Features of the process of stretching the mesh and its attachment to the supports

After the concrete solution has dried, we proceed to the second stage of arranging a reliable fence on our site. First, using manual arc welding, we weld hooks onto the supports. Hooks can be made from any metal material you have (steel bars, thick wire, regular nails, and so on).

When the hooks are welded on, we straighten the roll of the netting and start pulling it. The operation should be started from the corner support. We hang the mesh on the welded fasteners. In this case, it is advisable to thread a reinforcing bar or thick (diameter - about 4 millimeters) into the very first row. In order to prevent the fence from bending down and not sagging, a wire or a bar is welded to the post.

Then we unwind the required length of the mesh, thread the bar (wire) vertically into it at some distance from the connection zone of the support and the mesh and begin to pull our fence. You need to carry out this operation together.

After pulling, it will be necessary to install a thick wire (or a bar) horizontally at a distance slightly above the bottom edge of the fence and below the top. Now you can weld the bar to the support. By analogy, we carry out tension and fastening of all subsequent sections of the mesh. Congratulations, you've built your own fence!

A fence is an indispensable element of any private property. If the country houses experts recommend fencing with more reliable protective structures, then summer cottages are their practical and inexpensive options. The most suitable material for a summer cottage fence is a chain-link mesh. With its help, you can not only make durable, but also increase the yield of the beds, since the design does not interfere with natural ventilation on the land, and also does not block the sun's access to it. To build a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands, you do not need to be a professional. This article will reveal all the secrets of the masters of installing a practical fence without welding, and also tell you what tools and materials you need to have to do this kind of work.

Features of the chain-link mesh, its advantages

The netting netting is a versatile material that is indispensable in summer cottages. It has many benefits that make it even more popular with buyers. These include:

affordable cost. The netting netting is a budget option for the material for the construction of the fence, because not every homeowner is able to allocate a decent amount for the installation of a more expensive structure in the country;

long service life. High-quality galvanized mesh is capable of retaining its original appearance for several decades (up to 40-50 years). It does not rust and does not deform if used properly.
the need to use a minimum amount of tools and fasteners during the installation of the fence;

Important! You can install a fence from a chain-link mesh either by welding or without it. Installation without welding is ideal for people who do not know how to work with such equipment.

ease of care of the material;
the mesh does not impede natural air circulation, does not shade the area.

Important! A chain-link mesh fence serves as an ideal fence not only for beds, flower beds or a vegetable garden, it is also indispensable in the process of arranging children's playgrounds, enclosures for pets, etc.

Material classification

Depending on the material of manufacture, the netting is of three types:

Non-galvanized.
Galvanized.
Plasticized.

Non-galvanized mesh is a fairly cheap material. Of course, it is more affordable, but you can doubt its durability, since under the influence of moisture, the surface is very quickly covered with rust.

Galvanized wire mesh is the most popular among customers. It is slightly more expensive than its non-galvanized counterpart, does not rust, which is really very valuable.

Plasticized material is a modern option, but more expensive. In the process of its manufacture, polymers are used, which properly protect the metal mesh from moisture. The plasticized mesh has a variety of colors. Every homeowner is able to choose the material that will ideally match the interior of the house, as well as complement it.

Instructions for craftsmen: how to make a simple fence from a chain-link mesh without welding with your own hands

Making a durable and reliable fence from a chain-link mesh is a fairly simple and interesting task. Its implementation does not require a large amount of professional knowledge and skills. For work, you only need tools and materials, as well as the desire of the master.

There are two ways to make a galvanized fence from a chain-link mesh:

Using a welding machine.
No welding.

Since not every homeowner has a welding machine at his disposal (or does not know how to use it), we will consider the option of installing a fence without using it.

Important! Installing a fence without using welding will allow you to build a structure that will be less practical than its welded counterpart.

Tools and materials

So that the construction of the fence does not cause difficulties, you must first stock up on all the necessary tools and materials. In the process of work, you will need:

mesh netting (non-galvanized, galvanized or plasticized);
support posts (wood, metal or reinforced concrete);
special fastening hooks;
sand, screenings, crushed stone and cement;
shovel;
building level;
mounting tape;
hammer or drill;
bolts, nails or screws.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a galvanized mesh fence

The simplest version of a mesh fence for a summer residence is a stretch one. Its installation will not take as long as it might seem at first glance. For the correct execution of the work, it is necessary to know and follow a clear sequence of the entire technological process.

Advice! To install a tension fence from a chain-link mesh, it is best to involve an assistant who will help you get the job done faster.

A chain-link fence is the most optimal budget option for a summer cottage. Install such a fence with your own hands, evaluate its merits not only from personal experience, but also see it by the increased amount of harvest from the beds.

Video instruction: how to build a fence from a chain-link mesh without welding with your own hands

Chain-link fence: photo

The patented invention of Karl Rabitz has served as a reliable version of the material for fences for more than a century. In the fencing of a chicken coop and a transformer box, a sports ground and a land plot - such a grid can be found everywhere. There is no alternative to it in the delimitation of neighboring areas - according to the regulations, it is forbidden to install boundary fences made of opaque materials. The task of how to make a fence from a chain-link with your own hands will not seem difficult to any man with a minimum of tools.

Which mesh netting to choose for the fence

The chain-link mesh is a continuous web of wire spirals intertwined. This design makes it easy to splicate the fragments together. In this case, the cell size can be in the range of 20-100 mm (the most common dimensions are 30-50 mm), the standard roll height is 1, 1.5 and 2 m.

In the manufacture of the mesh, wires of different diameters from 1.2 to 5 mm are used; most of the chain-link on sale is made of wire 1.5-2 mm in diameter. The wire can be coated or uncoated:

Uncoated ("black"). It is better not to use a mesh from it for capital fences, its service life is short, and it is almost impossible to paint such a product with high quality, despite all the assurances of the "advisers".
Zinc coated is the most common option. The galvanized chain-link will fade after a while, but it will not rust, having served for more than a dozen years.
Stainless steel. A chic and timeless option, but very expensive.
In a polymer shell. Such a mesh appeared on sale not so long ago and is in great demand. Firstly, it has a long service life (subject to choosing a reliable manufacturer with high-quality plastic coating), and secondly, you can realize your fantasies through a wide palette of colors.

Galvanized Wire Mesh

Mesh with colored polymer coating

With your own hands, you can not only build a fence from a chain-link, but also weave the net itself. There are many drawings of a manual machine for weaving it. The manufacture of the machine will require some milling, welding and simple turning work. One person is able to make up to 10 m of mesh per day, therefore, in the presence of wire, it makes sense to think about independent production.

Installation of supports for the construction of fencing

There are several options for making a fence from a chain-link mesh. In any case, the most responsible and laborious process is the marking of the territory and the installation of support pillars.

How to prepare the site and choose supports

Before installing the fence from the grid, you should accurately, according to the existing documents for the site, measure the boundaries of the future fence, think over the location of the gates and gates. The place for the construction of the fence should be cleaned of debris and vegetation, and then the poles (wooden or metal stakes) should be hammered into the places of the future corner posts and supports for the gates and wickets.

To determine the location of the intermediate posts, you need to pull a strong cord between the stakes, then measure the distance between them. Optimally, the racks are placed every 2-2.5 m from each other, so the resulting distance must be divided by 2.5 and rounded up.

The distance between the posts should be between 2 and 2.5 m

In this way, the number of corner posts is found; the exact distance between them can be found by dividing the above distance by the number of posts. Places of future supports must also be marked with pegs.

Depending on the type of underlying soil, material, thickness of the pillars and the type of future fence, there are several methods of mounting the supports. Wooden posts are short-lived, concrete or asbestos-cement pipes cause difficulties in attaching the mesh.

The best solution for making a fence from a chain-link with your own hands will be metal racks from a round or shaped square pipe from 60 mm in diameter. Next, we will consider this particular option.

Methods for installing support pillars

You can install metal racks:

simply by driving them into the ground;
clog up - place in a previously prepared hole and fill it with stones or large rubble, constantly ramming;
partially (when the end of the rack is driven into the ground) or completely concreted in previously prepared pits.

There are many methods for calculating the length and depth of the underground part of the pillars - with the determination of the type of soil, the level of groundwater flow and the depth of soil freezing. But for an easy fence from the chain-link mesh, possible movements of the supports of several centimeters in height are insignificant, therefore, in practice, a simple rule is used - at least 40% of the column must be in the ground. That is, a fence post with a height of 1.5 m should be about 2.1 m long for any installation method, but complete concreting is optimal.

In practice, the process looks like this:

Install corner (or end, in the presence of wickets and gates) posts, strictly controlling their verticality using a level.
Prepare pits for intermediate posts according to the preliminary marking. The presence of a drill in normal (without roots and large stones) soil greatly facilitates the work!
After the concrete has hardened, pull the cord over the top of the posts to control the height of the intermediate supports to be installed, and another one from the bottom to control the placement of all the posts on the same line.
To facilitate the alignment of the posts in height, fill the bottom of the pits with sand, gravel or fine gravel and simply change the height of this pillow by adding or removing material.
Pour the height-adjusted racks with concrete with level control; if necessary, install stops and supports.

Further installation should be carried out only after the concrete has hardened (at least one week), the racks must be primed and painted.

Instructions for building different types of chain-link fences

Before you start building a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands, you should determine the purpose of the fence, the basic requirements for aesthetics and strength. Indeed, in one case, you need a powerful fence made of a non-standard mesh with a wire of 4-5 mm for grazing livestock, in the other - a beautiful and elegant fence in front of the house or a lightweight structure without frills at the borders of neighboring areas. There is a variant for each task.

The simplest fence for the site

The easiest way to mount a mesh fence is to simply attach it to the installed supports. For this work you will need an assistant, or preferably two.

Roll the chain-link before fastening on the ground to a distance of slightly more than one span between the uprights.
Check the height of the spiral wire, if necessary screw in or unscrew the offset ones. The fact is that it is not visible in the roll whether they are all at the same level, and after stretching the mesh, it will be impossible to align the links.
Bend the edges of the spirals immediately with pliers to avoid injury and the possibility of the mesh unraveling during installation.
Unwind the net as it is fastened.

There are several ways to attach the chain-link to the racks, but it is highly desirable to fasten not the mesh itself (in order to avoid its deformation), but a metal rod with a diameter of 6-10 mm inserted vertically into its link. For one more similar pin, inserted a little further, the assistant must pull the canvas.

At the same time, no blocks, levers or complex structures are required for tensioning, moreover, excessive efforts of one person can lead to deformation and stretching of the 2 mm wire mesh!

The rod can be attached to the support as follows:

just tie it to the post with soft wire. The fastest way, but not too pretty;
use not wire, but special clamps;

Fastening with clamps

put the pin on the hooks prepared in advance and bend them. Hooks made of wire pieces with a diameter of 4-6 mm and a length of 50-80 mm should be welded to the post at a distance of 400-500 mm from each other until the mesh is stretched;

Fastening with hooks

weld a rod (not a canvas!) to a post in several places, having received a non-separable connection;
sew the mesh spiral with a rod, inserting it into the previously welded pipe sections with a diameter of 1 / 4ʺ, 15-20 mm long. They should be placed on the support at the same distance as the hooks; the short length of the segments will allow them to fit into the cells of the grid. The most aesthetic way of collapsible connection.

The end and corner posts will experience constant loads from the effect of the tensioned mesh, therefore, braces (stops) are imperative.

Corner post mounting method

Fence option with guy wires

To ensure greater rigidity of the fence, better resistance to wind loads and prevent sagging of the curtain, one (from above) or several rows of rope or wire 4-6 mm thick can be pulled.

Such strings can be attached to the supports and pulled in any convenient way, but the most practical option is with the help of special ties or tensioners.

Tie for string tension

When installing a fence from a chain-link mesh with your own hands using stretch marks, the distance between the posts can be increased to 3m. But it should be borne in mind that when stretching, the load on the extreme and corner supports increases many times, therefore, their rigidity should be increased in comparison with the supports for a simple tension fence.

The ideal option for fixing the fabric is through stitching along the length of the mesh. But this process is long and laborious, and with an increase in the diameter and stiffness of the cable or wire, the complexity increases.

Therefore, in practice, the strings are first pulled, then the chain-link is installed similarly to the simple method described above, and then, after 200-300 mm, the mesh is tied to the braces with galvanized knitting wire with a section of 1-1.5 mm.

Reinforced version with lags

To strengthen the supporting frame of the fence, logs should be welded to the installed racks, preferably from a profile pipe. The main load in the fence will be compression, therefore the section of the log should ensure that the frame does not "fold" when the mesh is stretched and the subsequent operation of the fence. With this method of installation, there is no need for braces for corner and end posts.

Mesh chain-link on a frame with lags

Since most of the effort will be applied at the top of the fence, the lower and intermediate logs (if any) can be replaced with reinforcement, rolled wire, or even tension the strings, as in the previous method. Tighten the mesh fabric to the frame with wire.

A fence with logs will be a good start for the future, if it becomes necessary to decorate the fence by hanging additional material on it. Also, you can easily replace the netting with a profiled sheet or slate, making the fence much more solid.

Practical sectional solution

Fence from sections

A fence made of sections, which are frames from a corner with a mesh fixed inside, is the most difficult to manufacture, but has a lot of advantages and benefits:

such a design is the most beautiful and flawless from an artistic perspective;
each section is a separate and rigid structural element, so there will be no issues with mesh sagging and loss of protective properties;
if necessary, the sections can be dismantled and the pillars can be used to build new fences;
the possibility of installation with a large slope of the enclosed area. It is believed that the chain-link mesh can be pulled when the ground level rises no more than 6 ° (which corresponds to a slope of 1:10). If these values are greater, a sectional fence with uniform steps is the correct solution.

Sectional fence with ledges

For the manufacture of the section, a solid-rolled steel corner with a shelf of 40-50 mm is used.

Using a "grinder" (better - an assembly saw), cut off the parts of the required size strictly perpendicularly.
Spread out the frame on a flat surface (or level all corners with shims), carefully measure the diagonals. Boil the frame in order to avoid twisting it should be in opposite corners.
In the finished frame, clean the seams, prime and paint it (it is much easier to renovate the places burnt from welding than to paint the corner under the mesh!).
It is imperative to install the netting through the rods, which can be welded or installed on hooks and bent (as well as to the posts). At the same time, fix the first pin on the side of the frame, after stretching the mesh - on the opposite side, and then from above and below.
Do not use excessive force when tightening, otherwise the section may "fold" inward. Fastening from all sides, even with minimal tension, will not allow the canvas to "flutter" and sag.
The distance between the supports should be calculated so that there is a gap of 40-80 mm between the support and the frame (or make sections according to the already known distance between the posts).
To fasten the sections to the posts, weld metal dies in advance (approximately 6 * 60 * 250 mm).
The frames can be fastened to the dies both by electric welding and by bolts, having received a collapsible design.

Approximate scheme of securing sections

Video: do-it-yourself mesh fence

How to decorate a mesh netting - original solutions

Many do not want to make a fence from a chain-link mesh, considering it impersonal, too simple and refuse this option in favor of other materials. Completely in vain! There are many ways to make such a fence original and unique, here are some of them.

Making patterns from wire. A laborious way, but beautiful and lasting.

The use of polymeric multi-colored ribbons and cords. Bright, smart, but not too durable.

Elegant appliques from ribbons and cords

Live plants. Always relevant, but beautiful only during the period of active vegetation and flowering. And from autumn to spring, if you do not remove the dried stems in a timely manner, it looks very untidy. You can use artificial greenery in the same way.

Light shading mesh. They come in a variety of colors and degrees of light transmission. They significantly increase the windage and weight of the fence, therefore they will not be suitable for a simple stretch fence.

Light shading mesh application

Photo fencing made of PVC or decorative photo grid. New, expensive, beautiful and luxurious material. It is also worth using with a powerful frame or sectional fence solution, hanging over the chain-link.

On this question, how to make a fence from a grid with your own hands, can be considered closed. Success in construction, and may the fence made with the help of the advice received please you for many years!