How to properly putty wooden windows. Restoration of wooden windows until complete restoration

Any repair work is not an easy task, which requires serious financial investments, as well as time expenditures. If you can still find time in your busy schedule, then money is not so simple for everyone. And the prices for such work bite.

That is why, in order to save money, you can put some work on your shoulders, especially such as do-it-yourself putty of window slopes. Today, many people are interested in the question of how to properly putty the slopes on the windows so that they come out even and beautiful? But, it is not so important how you will putty them, but how the old window block was dismantled.

Restoration and painting of old windows

Windows over 15 years old require careful processing and the use of modern materials.

That is, a positive result largely depends on the state of the opening. Of course, the problem here is who will dismantle the windows. But, as a rule, dismantling is carried out immediately before installation by the very same masters, so they must approach the issue with all responsibility.

The cost of filling window slopes

Preparation of materials and tools

To understand how to putty the slopes on the windows with your own hands correctly, you must initially fulfill some conditions:

• Make the right choice of filler.
• Prepare the surface.
• Equip the workplace with everything you need.

Tool for putty window slopes

So what kind of putty to putty the slopes on the windows?

1. External window slope filler should be selected according to the application and the scope of work.
2. It is necessary to putty the outer slope only with frost and water resistant compounds. Any facade putty is perfect for outdoor work.
3. To close up the slopes on the inside of the house, you need to take into account the microclimate of the room. If the room has a high level of humidity all the time, then it is better to putty with a polymer or cement composition. If the finishing will be carried out in an ordinary living room with normal conditions, it is permissible to use lime-gypsum-based putties.
4. If the slopes are not level enough, they will need to be leveled first. To do this, it is better to choose a finishing and starting putty, or purchase a universal composition.

Please note that if the slopes are installed in a new building, plaster gives them their shape, after which puttying helps to level the errors. In addition to the fact that the surface will have to be putty, a deep penetration primer is also necessary to increase the adhesion of the mixture for leveling with the base. For this, it is better to choose a solution with an anti-fungal effect in order to avoid the appearance of mold and mildew in the future. How to putty wooden windows for external painting?

Also get a silicone-based sealant and perforated corners.

The following tools will help you to do your own work:

• Spatula with a narrow and wide working blade.
• Building level.
• Stationery knife.
• Brushes and rollers for priming and painting.

Putty of slopes for painting (video)

How to prepare the surface before work?

Before plastering and filling the slopes, you need to prepare the surface and the necessary materials. Better not to buy ready-made mixes! Each master is accustomed to working with his own mortar consistency, so the purchased product may turn out to be excessively liquid or vice versa, which will negatively affect the result of the work performed.

Both the outer and inner slope require preparation. To do this, you need to remove old finishing materials, as well as surface fragments that do not adhere well. Only then can you prime walls... Such preparation requires both a plastic and a wooden window block.

Then it will not interfere with tape and protective film to cover the glass and window frame to avoid contamination.

Leveling slopes

So it's time to tell how to putty the upper slope of the window, as well as the opening at the door or window block. The most popular material for leveling slopes is drywall. To level the slope, it is enough to screw the l-shaped profile onto the window frame, and adjust the inner side, which can be hidden under the finishing putty.

The outer part of the drywall sheet is set vertically using a level. But, it is even easier to glue the perforated corner in advance and use it as a guide along which to fit the gypsum board. Between the window and the drywall, you need to lay mineral wool, which will play the role of insulation, and outside you can use Knauf Perlfix drywall.

Starter putty

And so, it came directly to the process of puttying. To do this, you need to take a tool of a suitable size and apply the solution to the surface. In the bathroom, drywall for painting with what to putty? If it was not possible to plaster the surface qualitatively, it will be necessary to putty the slopes in 2 approaches: the first layer is the starting mixture, the top one is the finishing one. As a rule, it is necessary to fill up the slopes with putty in 5-7mm so that all defects are hidden.

It is best to work with a trowel with a wide blade.

After the mixture is placed, the spatula is pressed firmly against the surface and moved in the direction of "itself". If the wall is badly damaged and needs to be leveled with a large amount of mortar, reinforcement will be required to better fix the mortar.

For working in the corners of the slope, you can choose a special angled spatula, which will simplify the work and improve the final result. If you need a second treatment slope with starting putty, this can be done no earlier than a day after the first layer has completely dried.

Finishing features

If the homeowners plan to cover the slopes with ceramics or hide them under the wallpaper, the finish finishing not required. But, if in the future you decide to paint the walls, you will have to carefully plaster and putty them. We talked about how to putty a brick or block slope with a starting putty, now we will tell you in more detail about the finishing design.

The finishing putty can be used even when the starting compound is not dry, but only if gypsum was used as the starting mixture.

To complete the finish, you will need 2 spatulas with different working blade widths. With a small spatula, put a mass on a large one, with which the putty is directly pulled along the slope. Please note that it is recommended to take a wide trowel wider than the slope itself.

This will help prevent scarring and result in faster resurfacing.

Registration

No matter how carefully you work with the putty, you still have to sand the surface after drying with sandpaper. To treat the surface with paint, it is better to get a woolen or mohair roller. Basically, for painting slopes, they select water-dispersed or water-based paints, which cover the wall in 2-3 layers.

This is what allows you to achieve the most suitable shade.

If the interior of your house or apartment allows, the slopes can not only be painted in one color, but also decorated with stucco and other decorative elements. Today, thanks to the Internet, you can watch many video lessons from experienced finishers, as well as get acquainted with design solutions. This is very appropriate if you do the work yourself and are trying to save money on the services of professional designers.

OK it's all over Now! I would like to believe that our article has given you confidence in your own abilities and you will cope with the task not only without difficulty, but also efficiently.

Additional Information:

After removing the old cracked paint from the surface, it is necessary to wipe the frame and remove all dust from it, and then rinse it with a special alkaline solution. You can buy it in an ordinary hardware store, where there is a carpentry department or a department for repairing furniture with your own hands.

Some people are at a loss to decide which paint to paint their wooden windows with. Our climate is characterized by significant temperature drops, variable weather with precipitation. Alkyd enamels and water-based acrylic paints Caparol, Remmers and Dulux performed well in such conditions, although they are quite expensive.

You can also choose cheaper domestic counterparts.

The process of decorating wooden products has several stages: first, the surface must be properly prepared, then it can be putty and painted. But depending on the type of materials that will be painted, the technology is slightly different. What is the difference between the putty of the walls for painting from the putty of the walls for the wallpaper? The general list of required tools for painting includes:

• increased resistance to frequent and prolonged exposure to high humidity;
• the ability to demonstrate a long operational period;
• high strength (not inferior to cement) and resistance to mechanical stress;
• short drying time, allowing you to apply several layers of leveling material in a short period of time;
• the presence of certain substances that prevent the development of fungal and mold bacteria;
• high elasticity, which ensures ease of use and an ergonomic container that can be used directly during work.

• dry, in the form of a powder - this must be diluted with water before use;
• paste, already ready to use, you just need to knead it slightly and then use it;
• sealant - a foamy composition that is becoming more and more fashionable; here, however, you cannot do without the help of a spatula
  all the same, but such a composition is used mainly for access to difficult places where it is necessary to ensure full and 100% sealing.

The method is controversial, but sometimes it helps. Cracks may appear that can be repaired. We take a regular syringe and use it to inject PVA glue into the crack.

Because the glue is liquid, it will flow out, the place needs to be pecked with tape. After drying, repeat the procedure, and then clean everything, putty and paint.

• If the windows face the sunny side, pick up the paint as lighter as possible. This helps reflect the sun's rays from the surface of the tree, which will prevent it from drying out quickly.
• If your windows are in the shade all the time, outside they can be painted in darker coloring compositions, but here it all depends on your wishes.

Both in the online store and in the retail stores of Leroy Merlin, enamels for windows and doors can be purchased by both individuals and organizations. These products have all the necessary certificates and are distinguished by excellent technical and operational characteristics. We purchase varnishes and enamels in significant quantities directly from their manufacturers, which allows us to sell them at the most attractive prices. In addition, at the request of buyers, delivery of these goods is organized.

Leroy Merlin offers a wide selection of goods at low prices for residents of Moscow, as well as cities of the Moscow region: Balashikha, Podolsk, Khimki, Korolev, Mytishchi, Lyubertsy, Krasnogorsk, Elektrostal, Kolomna, Odintsovo, Domodedovo, Serpukhov, Shchelkovo, Orekhovo-Zuevo, Ramenskoe , Dolgoprudny, Zhukovsky, Pushkino, Reutov, Sergiev Posad, Voskresensk, Lobnya, Klin, Ivanteevka, Dubna, Yegoryevsk, Chekhov, Dmitrov, Vidnoe, Stupino, Pavlovsky Posad, Naro-Fominsk, Fryazino, Lytkarino, Dzerzhinsky and Solnechnogorsk. You can order the products you need online with delivery to all of these cities, or visit one of our retailers.

Preparation of windows for painting, putty and sanding of windows

We have already talked about how to remove paint from windows. Now we will consider the next stage of preparing windows for painting, namely, putty and sanding of wooden windows. This is a very important stage of the repair, since the appearance of the window frames depends on the quality of its implementation.

After all, how can you like windows with cracked frames and cracked window sills? It is unlikely, since it looks very unsightly. Therefore, it is worth learning how to level the surface of already cleaned windows. As a rule, this is done using a window putty, a brush-flute, trowels and a sanding cloth.

After the old paint has been removed, the window treated with antifungal agents and dried, it may appear to be paintable. However, this is not always the case, but only in the case of perfectly flat and smooth slopes of the opening, window sill and frame. This is rare and mostly only on new windows. In addition, the new window also needs to be prepared for painting. And it's not worth talking about old wooden frames, which in some dwellings are often older than the owners.

Properties of epoxy putty

Epoxy putties belong to two-component formulations... They are based on petroleum resin, pigment additives and organic solvents in the form of special plasticizers. The result is durable defect filler resistant to deformations and destruction of various nature... The popularity of epoxy putty for wood is largely due to its organic interaction with the structure of this material. It forms a reliable connection that is resistant to moisture and mechanical stress. For this reason, it is often used in outdoor work before painting.

Unlike many post-processing agents, such formulations do not have a strong chemical odor and do not shrink... But the coating lends itself to grinding. When determining which fillers are best suited for preparing exterior material for further painting, epoxies should be considered first. They are not only characterized by resistance to external influences, but also act as an excellent base for the final decorative design. True, such coatings harden for a rather long time - it may be required up to 24 hours for complete drying.

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Slope leveling technology

Now about how to properly putty the slopes on the windows.

The technology depends on the degree of curvature, the presence or absence of serious defects on the surface. If they are already plastered, then you just have to iron the plane with a finishing putty to get rid of small potholes, scratches, cracks and roughness.

Take for example a more complex case where the slopes require alignment. In this case, the main work is done with a starting putty, which can be applied with a sufficiently thick layer, applied in several layers.

It is important. Before starting finishing, make sure that the ambient temperature is not lower than +10 degrees, if you are using a gypsum mixture, and not lower than +5 degrees, if a cement

The instructions for the production of work are as follows:

• Measure the width and height of the window opening with a tape measure, cut pieces of the required size from the perforated corners.
• Using a drill with a mixer attachment, prepare a putty solution. Its amount should be such that you will be able to use it until it loses its viability. This parameter is always indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.
• Check the verticality and horizontalness of the corresponding corners formed by the slopes with the wall with a building level. Put putty on them, making the layer thicker where the level requires.
• Glue the perforated corner onto the fresh putty by pressing it into the mortar. Correct the position of the corner vertically and horizontally with the help of a level, pressing it deeper into the solution where necessary.

Remove excess mixture squeezed out through the perforation holes with a spatula

• Let the mortar set and harden so as not to move the corners during the putty process.
• Using a wide spatula, apply a layer of starting filler to the slope, pressing it to the surface at an angle of about 30 degrees and leading from the bottom up. Then remove the excess crosswise from the window to the wall. Draw an even corner with the wall at the same time.

Photo of the main process

• One layer of putty should be no more than 5-6 mm. If more layers are required to level and eliminate surface defects, they are applied as many as required, but each must be thoroughly dried before the next.

Advice. To prevent a thick layer of putty from peeling off over time, it can be reinforced with plastic or fiberglass mesh.

• After finishing the leveling, wait until the putty has dried and with a sandpaper fixed on a grater, rub the surface, removing traces from the trowel and sagging.
• Finish the work by smoothing the plane with a thin, no more than 1 mm, layer of finishing putty. After it dries and grouting with a thin sandpaper, the slopes can be painted.

The final stage of finishing

Finishers recommend the owners of plastic windows to add another intermediate stage to this complex of works. After leveling the slope, it is necessary to draw a thin groove in the corner between it and the window frame with a spatula along the still fresh putty, and when the solution dries, fill it with a sealant.

It has good elasticity and will act as a shock absorber when the plastic expands on hot days.

Enamels for windows and doors in Moscow

Painting doors and windows is one of those procedures that are almost always performed when carrying out cosmetic repairs in residential, office, retail premises, at social and cultural facilities. To improve the appearance of door and window structures, reliably protect them from the adverse effects of moisture, ultraviolet radiation, minor mechanical damage, it is necessary to use high-quality enamels. They are presented in a wide range in Leroy Merlin stores.

You can choose and buy various types of enamels for windows and doors from us:

• On a water, water-dispersed and alkyd basis;
• Designed for painting wood, plastic and other materials;
• For outdoor and indoor work;
• Glossy and semi-glossy.

One of the main distinguishing features of all these paints and varnishes is that they are environmentally friendly materials that are safe for the environment and human health. All enamels for windows and doors offered by Leroy Merlin are easily applied to the painted surfaces using brushes and rollers, dry quickly and at the same time practically do not emit substances with a pungent and unpleasant odor into the atmosphere.

These compositions have excellent adhesion to the materials for which they are intended to be painted, and therefore, subject to the application technology, they hold very firmly, do not flake off or "bubble". The enamels for windows and doors that we offer have excellent water-repellent properties, do not fade even after intense and prolonged exposure to sunlight. In addition, the paint and varnish layer that they form has a fairly high mechanical strength.

The order of work for every taste

There are several operations associated with wood putty.

DIY recipes

First, you can cook it yourself.

Here are two of the most readily available recipes:

1. The first is rosin-based:

• in a container, mix 2 parts of rosin, 1 part of lard and 10 parts of chalk;
• melt until a completely liquid mass is obtained, stirring constantly;
• on completion, let it cool.

Useful advice! We advise you to test this putty on rosin, it will be especially good when you want to remove it. It can be easily removed with plain hot water. Most interestingly, the removed mixture can be applied again.

1. The second is based on linseed oil:

• Here we are already mixing 7 parts of flaxseed oil, 4 parts of umber;
• we also begin to melt with constant stirring;
• during the heating process, you will first need to add 4 parts of yellow wax,
• then 5.5 parts of chalk and
• 11 parts of white lead;
• when the mass takes on a stable liquid form without lumps, heating stops;
• let the putty cool down again.

Before painting, window putty requires sanding, although its quality and the tools used still depend on you.

Application works

Instructions for using the putty with your own hands, in whatever form it is supplied, are as follows:

• first, and this is an indispensable condition, remove all the old paint and putty;
• then thoroughly clean the entire surface, grind and clean again from all dust residues, let the surface dry completely;
• proceeding to the application of the first layer of coarse-grained putty in order to remove all significant irregularities;
• wait until the surface is dry;
• proceeds to apply already finishing fine-grained;
• when the surface is completely dry, it is sanded again.

Putting windows in this way removes many of the problems of hard-to-reach places.

Useful advice! We advise you to turn to the so-called high-temperature putty, which is indispensable when working outdoors. Such a putty can withstand the temperature range from -40 to +250 degrees, without losing its qualities.

Preparing the putty before application

The quality of the solution directly affects the quality of work. It is necessary to determine the correct proportion of hardener in the base composition of the glass fiber filler. Manufacturers recommend using an electronic scale for this, but for simple garage repairs, this is an unlikely device. It is possible to determine the required 3% hardener approximately, but there is a high probability of error.

There is a little trick:

• choose the required amount of fiberglass putty;
• we divide the received amount into two equal slides, which will be 50% of the total volume;
• we again divide one of the slides in half, 25% remains;
• we continue to divide, now we get two slides of 12.5% ​​each;
• now we divide one of the slides into four equal parts, the volume of any of which will be equal to the required 3%.

After determining the required amount of hardener, mix the resulting solution until a uniform pink tint appears. It is necessary to thoroughly stir the resulting mixture, since the solvent will constantly strive to the surface. As a result, a poorly mixed solution or an incorrectly selected amount of hardener will either show up as spots on the car's painting, or on the drying time of the putty.

It is not necessary to prepare a large amount of mortar in advance, since the hardening period of a high-quality fiberglass putty is about ten minutes. The temperature in the room where the repair is being carried out should not be extremely low or high. The optimal value is from 18 to 25 degrees Celsius.

Restoration of old windows with putty

In this article I will tell you how, using a spatula or palette knife and ordinary wood putty, to restore an old window, giving it an updated look. This method is applicable if the glass on your window is fixed with putty or small glazing beads that are no longer suitable for use.

Tools and materials

First, we need:

1. Acrylic putty for wood, preferably white. This is the easiest to paint in the desired color, but even without that, most of the windows are white.
2. A palette knife or small spatula, a flat wide knife will also do.
3. New glasses, if the old ones are broken or damaged by corrosion (black spots, grooves and scratches, and other hard-hitting things).
4. Sandpaper or a construction hair dryer to remove old paint from the window. You can, of course, do without this, but in my opinion, a newly painted window looks much more beautiful, not to mention the effect of the external environment on poorly painted wood.
5. Wood paint, which we will paint the window with.

Let's start repairing!

First, sand the frame and remove with a knife or spatula the remnants of the old putty and glazing beads, if there are nails that hold the glass, remove them too. In our example, we changed one of the glasses to a new one, since the previous one was broken. You can do without this if the glass is in order. Take out the old glass and wash it or replace it with a new one.

We prepare the seat for the new glass, remove the holes in the frame, you can also grease the decayed parts of the wood with putty, the main thing is not to overdo it - the excess putty will be squeezed out by the glass and may remain on it if it is not noticed in time, and it will be more difficult to insert the glass. By the way, there is a good article about the restoration of old windows.

New glass can be cut by yourself, usually 4mm thick glass is used in windows. But if you do not have the skills to cut glass, you can contact the nearest glass workshop, where they will cut glass to the required size for you inexpensively, do not forget to accurately measure the frame!

We insert a new or washed glass into place.

Be careful, the edges of the glasses are very sharp, it is better to use gloves, and not as we did

We fix the installed glass with small nails or immediately with putty, if it is small. Apply the putty evenly to the frame, while pressing the glass.

The occupied part of the glass with the putty should be about 5 mm. Usually, this is just the distance to the end of the frame from the back side.

The putty dries quickly enough, so we process each side of the glass completely, and only then move on to the next.

When we have completely missed one side, it is necessary to remove the excess and give evenness to our putty. Until the putty is dry, it can be easily removed from glass and wood.

Work over one side with a trowel or knife, first leveling the seam and then removing excess from the glass and frame.

First, we apply a layer of putty, the process is described in detail here

Then we align it.

So, the installation of the glass is completed, all four sides of the glass are smeared with putty and aligned, you can proceed to the rest of the glasses, if any.

When the putty is dry, you can paint our window, depending on the paint you choose, this process may differ, but usually it does not cause difficulties. So, without special costs and with minimal labor efforts, we gave our old window a decent look and extended the life yet for one year.

Especially for the site Rems-Info.ru

rems-info.ru

Preparation for work

To do everything correctly, efficiently and reliably, you need to fulfill several conditions: choose the right putty, prepare the surface, create conditions in the room suitable for carrying out this type of work.

Choice of putty and other materials

The leveling mixture is selected in accordance with the field of application and the scale of work:

• External slopes can only be putty with water- and frost-resistant cement compositions. All types of facade putty are suitable.

Choose your outdoor materials carefully

• The mixture for interior work is selected depending on the microclimate in the room. If there is constant high humidity in it (bath, sauna, etc.), then the putty should be cement or polymer. For dry rooms, you can use gypsum and lime-gypsum compositions.
• If a thick layer of mortar is required for leveling, buy both a finishing and starting putty. Or a universal mixture.

Advice. In the case of the initial removal of slopes in a new building, they are shaped with plaster solutions, and only then a leveling putty is used.

• Relatively flat slopes, without significant defects, can be repaired using only finishing putty.

In addition to the putty, you will need a deep penetration primer to improve adhesion of the leveling compound to the substrate, silicone sealant, perforated corners to strengthen the outer corners.

Advice. Buy a primer with antifungal additives. It will prevent mold from growing on slopes.

Any traces of mold that already exist must also be removed before priming.

The set of tools is standard: wide and narrow stainless steel spatulas, a level, a paint knife, as well as a brush or roller for priming and subsequent painting.

Surface preparation

Before puttingty the slopes, you need to clean the work surface well - remove the old paint, the falling off plaster, sweep away the dust, cut off the mounting foam protruding from the window block.

Advice. You need to cut off the foam not flush with the frame, but a little deeper. After that, the cut is treated with a sealant to protect the foam from condensation, which reduces its thermal insulation properties.

It is convenient to cut the foam with a thin stationery knife

If the window sill has not yet been installed, it is advisable to do this before finishing the window slopes. so that later you do not have to re-level the damaged areas. In addition, the work performed in the correct sequence will allow you to immediately qualitatively seal up the joints between the slopes and the window sill.

The next stage of preparation is to protect the window frame and sill from dirt and damage during the filling process. Plastic and wooden structures can be pasted over with masking tape, and surfaces with an unstable coating, which can come off when the adhesive tape (for example, MDF) is removed, can be covered with foil or paper.

The final chord of the preparatory process is the priming of the entire work surface. The primer should strengthen the base, increase its adhesion properties, and prevent the appearance of mold due to possible excess moisture.

It is better not to save on a primer. You don't need a lot of it, so its price will not affect the amount of expenses too much. But the quality and reliability of the slopes will be high.

You can proceed directly to the putty only after the soil has completely dried. But it is also not worth tightening, otherwise dust will settle on the surface.

Renovation of old wooden windows, partial and complete restoration of a window

You can't go anywhere without putty when working on wooden frames.

Only in this way can you truly protect the surface from future external influences and prepare it for painting. This indisputable truth will not be too lazy to repeat for you and the additional video in this article.

• How to put putty with your own hands: dilute, make, knead, clean, calculate, glue baguettes, proportions, video instructions, photo and price

  The final stage of rough finishing of all planes of the dwelling most often involves the use of powder or pasty materials, which make it possible to obtain ...

• Putty for chipboard: video instructions for do-it-yourself puttying, is it possible to putty and what, photo

  Even if the surface of the chipboard is sanded by the factory method, it must still be putty before painting or varnishing ....

• How to level the walls with putty: remove, remove, use, what consistency should be, do-it-yourself video instructions for installation, photo and price

  In apartments, finishing with the use of liquid mixtures is carried out very often, which means that it deserves close attention. Many owners of the city ...

How to putty slopes

By the way, this silicone can be easily removed, in case of bad experience, with a rag and solvent.

Coating with varnish or paint

New frames can be varnished immediately after paint removal and sanding to wood. The wood must be pre-primed to avoid mold and rot. Buy varnish for external use. It is better to cover old frames with oil paint.

Installation of fittings

Then you need to screw the fittings (preferably new) to the sashes. The sashes are mounted back into the opening. Make sure the locks close well and the latches work smoothly.

Repairing a wooden window will save you a lot of money. Plus, your room won't lose the natural and vibrant look you and your guests are used to.

DIY wooden window repair

. Prices for wooden window repairs are quite biting. Take, for example, the procedure for "adjusting the window sash to free play", which averages $ 17 per piece. And if you invest in a huge number of others to repair a wooden structure, then we can say with confidence that you have to pay the master a rather large sum, but working with your own does not require extra costs, and today we will try to prove it to you.

Quite often we have to meet wooden windows installed in pre-Soviet times in houses and apartments. Although these wooden windows were installed a couple of decades ago, they still have all the necessary functions to protect the apartment (houses) from harsh climatic conditions. The truth is often not complete without painting or pasting with paper (cotton wool) during the cold season. But still, painting alone is not enough for the window, as before, to serve you faithfully. Moreover, the service of the window must be of high quality, otherwise its window will have to be replaced with a more practical plastic one, or a new wooden one. Therefore, it is simply necessary to carry out a major overhaul of the old wooden window. The word overhaul includes the repair of all the flaws in the window due to which the secret of his age is revealed.

Therefore, if you still do not want to part with the frame because of natural material, in today's article we will tell you how to do your own window restoration.

The choice of certain tools necessary for the restoration of a wooden window directly depends on the state of the window frame. Therefore, it is possible that you will not need all the equipment listed below.

Tools and materials needed to repair wooden windows with your own hands:

• Building hair dryer (to remove the old paint layer from the frame);
• A set of spatulas of different sizes (for removing a layer of old paint and applying putty);
• Sealant (to glue the glass);
• A set of brushes (for painting frames);
• A set of sanding papers P220-240 and P120 for cleaning wood and putty;
• Hammer;
• Nails (20 mm long for glazing beads);
• Chisel;
• Pliers;
• Ticks;
• Electric jigsaw or hacksaw for wood;
• Penknife;
• Wood paint (preferably glossy, since it washes better);
• Wooden glazing beads (if you plan to re-glaze the window frame);
• Masking tape;
• Coarse putty for wood;
• Fine-grained finishing putty for wood;
• Deep penetration primer.

Now a little more detail about the last three materials from the above list.

Coarse wood putty

Coarse wood putty is used to seal various sizes of material defects. Also, coarse-grained wood putty is used in the restoration of doors and many other joinery.

Fine-grained finishing putty for wood

Fine-grained finishing putty for wood is often used for internal "concrete" in apartments (houses). However, this material is also suitable for filling wooden windows. However, the choice of the color of the putty must be approached wisely. For the repair of wooden windows, it is advisable to purchase a white putty. Of course, there can be no talk of a combination with the color of natural wood. But beige material is used only when you plan to varnish the window frame. And if the window frame is in a very poor condition, it is necessary to carry out filling and painting with a material of exactly white color. In this case, the visibility of defects is reduced to almost zero.

Deep penetration primer

It is a deep primer that is widely used in the decoration of an apartment (house). Priming a wooden window is necessary for better adhesion of the putty to the paint.

Preparatory work

Deciding to repair a wooden window is only half the battle, it is necessary to determine what the scope of work will be. To do this, inspect the wooden window for visible defects and damage. It is possible that you have to not only complete the windows, but also completely replace the glass. Also, in most cases, you cannot do without a major overhaul of frames. This work is necessary because in places where the paint has peeled off, the material could well rot. The older the window, the more visible defects you will find. Therefore, the beginning of the repair of a wooden window is to calculate the required amount for the material.

After completing the preparatory work, you will finally decide for yourself whether to repair the old wooden window when for the same money it will be possible to put a new wooden or plastic window.

What is the material

General information

Like any other putties, polyester compounds with fiberglass have a pasty consistency. They are made on the basis of unsaturated modified polyesters.

By themselves, these resins are quite hard, therefore, to give them the necessary viscosity and plasticity, styrene is added to them. As you might guess, the fiberglass in the composition of these putties serves as a reinforcing filler. It increases the strength of the putty and improves some of its other properties, which will be discussed below.

Glass fiber increases the strength of the putty and prevents cracking

The solvent in polyester putties is very harmful to health. Therefore, when working with the composition in a closed space, it is necessary to take safety measures - put on a respirator and ensure ventilation of the room.

Polyester putties are sold as two component formulations. Those. before use, the putty must be mixed with a hardener.

Properties

Like any other building materials, the putty in question has its advantages and disadvantages. Below are its main positive and negative qualities.

Dignity:

• Possibility of applying in a thick layer. The thickness of one layer can be 5-8 mm;
• No shrinkage. Even when applied in a thick layer, the coating practically does not shrink, in contrast to acrylic putty;

Fiberglass filler can be used to seal through holes

• Does not crack. The glass fiber contained in the composition prevents the coating from cracking;
• Strength. Thanks to this, it is allowed to use fiberglass putty not only for sealing mother-in-law and dents, but also through holes;
• Resistant to vibrations and vibrations. Thanks to this, this putty is common among motorists;

Due to its vibration resistance, polyester putty is often used for car repairs

• Freezes quickly. The setting time is on average about 20-30 minutes. As a rule, you can start sanding already 15 minutes after applying the coating;
• Weather resistance. The material is not afraid of moisture, low temperatures, or ultraviolet radiation.

Flaws:

• Toxicity. As I said above, the solvent in the coating is harmful to health;
• Set quickly... The composition is suitable for application for 4-8 minutes, respectively, you need to work with it yourself quickly. This usually causes some problems for beginners.

Specifications

As an example, consider the characteristics of the Novol Fiber two-component putty.

What is the best way to putty wooden window frames?

The choice of filler for wooden windows should be based on the volume and complexity of the proposed work. Already, depending on the state of the wooden window covering and the intended end result, the choice of putty can fall into several options.

For instance:

• putty for wood with fiberglass (used in case of significant mechanical damage to the wooden coating, since fiberglass, which is part of this type of putty, is tight and resistant to external environmental influences);
• glue putty for wood (has excellent adhesion to the working surface, but is slightly inferior in the popularity of the application);
• moisture-resistant wood putty (for example, Eskaro Aqua Filler, which are quite expensive in terms of cost, but they do an excellent job in a situation where you need to protect wooden windows from prolonged exposure to water);
• acrylic putty for wood (it is elastic and resistant to temperature extremes and climatic influences, it dries quickly and takes the form of natural wood - it is applicable for finishing both indoor and outdoor premises);

Some of the best putties for wooden surfaces of windows, which have received great love and demand from consumers, are:

• Two-component "Unisoft" putty;
• Two-component polyester universal "Uni".

Putty for wooden windows must meet the basic requirements: withstand high humidity, temperature changes.

• For filling and restoring deep cracks and defects, use a coarse-grained wood filler.
• Finish with a fine-grained white or beige putty.
• Modern types of acrylic and alkyd putties can be used for starting and finishing treatment. They dry quickly, are easy to sand and will not flake off for many years.

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Putty for window frames: how to putty a window sill and putty windows with your own hands, video instruction, photo and price

Perhaps, with the massive installation of double-glazed windows and plastic window sills and slopes, this question of how to putty a window sill has become less relevant.

Putty for windows has a fairly wide range of proposals already in a ready-to-use form

New materials and technologies to solve old problems

Nevertheless, many people still care about it.

• Firstly, in the old and rather long times, only wooden windows were installed.
• And secondly, even in cities, some still prefer to put a "tree", but it requires care over time, and here one cannot do without putty.

The solution to the question of how to putty windows necessarily begins with the removal of old putty and paint

The construction market classifies window putty into the following categories:

• the way the composition is presented;
• the main material used in the preparation;
• solidification rate;
• the requirement for the nature of the treated surface;
• color.

Even such a putty of window frames will force you to pick up a spatula in the future.

Classification

According to the method of presenting the composition, the putty is divided into three types:

• dry, in the form of a powder - this must be diluted with water before use;
• paste, already ready to use, you just need to knead it slightly and then use it;
• sealant - a foamy composition that is becoming more and more fashionable; here, however, you cannot do without the help of a spatula
  all the same, but such a composition is used mainly for access to difficult places where it is necessary to ensure a complete and 100% seal.

According to the material that was used for the manufacture (although the range of possible proposals for this category is so wide that this listing contains only the most famous bases):

• based on nitrocellulose,
• using polyester materials,
• with a predominant content of flaxseed oil.

By the speed of hardening, when you can already start grinding:

• ordinary, which hardens after 3 days, not less, and,
• hardening slowly, which is very similar to plasticine and which can be stored closed for quite a long time, this is its main advantage.

By the nature of the surface to be treated - here we mean the degree of porosity of the surface, therefore the classification is simple:

• for porous surfaces; the most famous representative of these is wooden;
• for non-porous surfaces; here - plastic and metal.

The color of the putty is:

• white - which is most often;
• gray - this is already like a product of "white" without a special desire for it;
• and then a lot of "stops" are possible according to the color of the frame itself; in principle, if you're lucky, you can pick up any color of putty.

Example of finished packaging

As an example, we give the characteristics of Uno acrylic putty for wood (pictured):

• intended for filling any wooden surfaces - from furniture to window frames;
• it can be used both indoors and outdoors;
• readiness for use - complete, immediately after purchase;
• allows sanding after drying;
• class of adhesion to the treated surface without the use of special materials - high;
• weight of one package - 450 g;
• available colors: 12 options, including white, oak, beech, pine, mahogany, alder, walnut, chestnut, ash.

Window frame putty - one of many packaging examples (see text for description)

The order of work for every taste

There are several operations associated with wood putty.

DIY recipes

First, you can cook it yourself.

Here are two of the most readily available recipes:

1. The first is rosin-based:

• in a container, mix 2 parts of rosin, 1 part of lard and 10 parts of chalk;
• melt until a completely liquid mass is obtained, stirring constantly;
• on completion, let it cool.

Useful advice! We advise you to test this putty on rosin, it will be especially good when you want to remove it. It can be easily removed with plain hot water. Most interestingly, the removed mixture can be applied again.

1. The second is based on linseed oil:

• Here we are already mixing 7 parts of flaxseed oil, 4 parts of umber;
• we also begin to melt with constant stirring;
• during the heating process, you will first need to add 4 parts of yellow wax,
• then 5.5 parts of chalk and
• 11 parts of white lead;
• when the mass takes on a stable liquid form without lumps, heating stops;
• let the putty cool down again.

Before painting, window putty requires sanding, although its quality and the tools used still depend on you.

Application works

Instructions for using the putty with your own hands, in whatever form it is supplied, are as follows:

• first, and this is an indispensable condition, remove all the old paint and putty;
• then thoroughly clean the entire surface, grind and clean again from all dust residues, let the surface dry completely;
• proceeding to the application of the first layer of coarse-grained putty in order to remove all significant irregularities;
• wait until the surface is dry;
• proceeds to apply already finishing fine-grained;
• when the surface is completely dry, it is sanded again.

Putting windows in this way removes many of the problems of hard-to-reach places.

Useful advice! We advise you to turn to the so-called high-temperature putty, which is indispensable when working outdoors. Such a putty can withstand the temperature range from -40 to +250 degrees, without losing its qualities.

conclusions

You may not even think about the price of the presented material, it is practically "zero" if you take into account the task that we perform the material.

Renovation of old wooden windows - partial and major window restoration

You can't go anywhere without putty when working on wooden frames.

Only in this way can you truly protect the surface from future external influences and prepare it for painting. This indisputable truth will not be too lazy to repeat for you and the additional video in this article.

Moving into an apartment or starting a renovation, do not rush to change wooden windows for plastic counterparts "from the best European manufacturers." Even if the window frames are dilapidated, they can be quite suitable for further use. Most of the old windows were made back in Soviet times, when the requirements for the quality of material and workmanship were quite high. Of course, repairs, insulation and external finishing may be required, but if you wish, you have free time and a minimum investment, there is every chance of getting a decent result.

What windows makes sense to restore

It would seem that a completely damaged window frame is still fully subject to restoration.

In order to assess the feasibility of the restoration, it is necessary to take into account the material from which the frames are made. Larch and pine have a "life" limit of 25–35 years, beech and oak - more than 50 years.

The restoration will not meet your expectations if:

• there is a complete loosening of window frames in the openings;
• the wood of the windows is dry;
• the structure of the tree looks loose, dents remain when pressed;
• dark spots appear under the paint (under them, as a rule, dust and rot);
• windows are seriously damaged (frames are split, etc.);
• visual inspection shows that the frames are bent or strongly deformed during operation.

Before restoring, also pay attention to the fact that the wood must be dry.

Photo Gallery: Materials Needed to Repair Old Wooden Frames

Using a primer will significantly extend the life of wooden windows
Alkyd paint is considered the most popular for painting window frames. The film will allow not only to keep warm, but also to protect the room from unwanted light. In most cases, the tubular seal is equipped with an adhesive strip, which greatly facilitates its installation on a window frame Silicone window sealant will eliminate even the smallest gaps Paper strips are available for purchase, although it is not at all difficult to make them yourself.
Antiseptic treatment will protect windows from mold and mildew
Putty allows you to eliminate cracks and chips on old frames With the help of metal corners, the geometry of the window is corrected

Removing old paint from window frames

The paint can be removed thermally or chemically.

Thermal method

To perform thermal cleaning, we need an industrial hair dryer (heat gun).

Old paint is best removed with a hot air gun.

Do not try to heat wood with a household hairdryer. It will not give the desired temperature (200 °). Also, do not use a blowtorch or propane torch - you will only carbonize the surface!

The industrial hair dryer sets the temperature in the range of 200-250 °... The above is not necessary, as this will lead to a loss in the quality of the material. It is advisable to put on a narrow nozzle on the heat-generating hole, which will prevent the glass from heating. They should be included in the set of such heating devices.

The frame must be placed on a narrow edge and rotated as needed. We consistently heat up areas of 20-30 cm, while holding the hairdryer at a distance of 10-15 cm from the frame. When the paint starts to bubble, remove it with a spatula or a boot knife.

After warming up with a hairdryer, the paint is removed from the wood with almost no effort

Remember that the hair dryer quickly overheats, so observe the regime: 5 minutes of operation - 10 minutes of cooling.

Do not use a sharpened spatula, it will slip on the old paint or, conversely, cut into the surface.

Chemical method

The chemical method is effective only with a small number of layers of old paint. A special reagent, which is sold in hardware stores, is applied to the surface and left for a certain time according to the instructions. Then remove the softened paint with a spatula and rags.

The substances used are toxic, so it is better to do the work outdoors (or on an open balcony). Also remember about protective equipment: gloves, respirator, glasses.

Putty and primer

Before carrying out this operation, you should carefully examine the window and mark all cracks and chips with a marker, and then walk with sandpaper to eliminate obvious roughness. Any cracks and irregularities found should be treated with an oil or latex filler.

The process of filling should be given special attention, since the heat-saving properties of windows directly depend on its quality.

A rubber spatula is used to carry out the work. Excess putty should be removed immediately, after it hardens it will be problematic.

Wood putty has a certain drying time according to the instructions, which must be observed.

As soon as the first layer of putty dries, if necessary, apply the second one. When the second layer is dry, you should walk with fine-grained emery paper over the putty surfaces.

Straightening geometry

Drafts when the window is closed, increased audibility of street noise, as well as squeaks and significant physical effort required to open or close a window are typical signs of broken window geometry. Check the geometry of the flaps, if necessary, adjust them and secure the result by installing metal corners.

Note that the geometry of the window does not always have to obey the "right angle" rule. If, for example, the window frame itself is slightly skewed, then it makes no sense to check the geometry of the window using a square. Better to pay attention to how the window closes and opens.

The geometry is adjusted by adjusting the tension of the screws located in the window hinges. If during closing the window sash catches the frame, adjustment of the upper hinge is required. The bottom hinge is responsible for moving the sash to the right / left.

The corners can be screwed on with an ordinary screwdriver, but it is faster and easier to do this with a screwdriver

Metal corners are attached at the joints of the frame parts and have both decorative and fixing purposes. The correct location for the corners is on the inside of the window. Quantity - four pieces per frame. For installation, first, using a chisel, prepare the grooves of the desired size. We insert the corners into the grooves. We check the accuracy of the installation: we check the length of the frame diagonals.

Warming

There are several ways to reduce the heat loss of windows using:

• paper for pasting windows;
• silicone sealants;
• fabric strips;
• tubular profiles;
• seals in the frame sashes;
• heat-saving film.

The last two methods are the most effective and aesthetically pleasing.

To begin with, we process the junction of the glass and sash with silicone sealant.

Silicone sealant is excellent for insulating wooden windows

Then, along the perimeter of the sash with a milling cutter at an angle of 45 ° in the direction of the strip, we cut a groove 5 mm deep, remove the chips from the channel. In the resulting groove along the entire length, we successively press the PVC sealant, without stretching it.

To facilitate the installation of the seal in the groove, you can use a special roller

The seal, in addition to protecting against drafts, provides additional sound insulation.

Recently, energy-saving films have been used to insulate windows. It is transparent, does not impair visibility and has a self-adhesive base.

Energy-saving film not only allows you to save heat, but also protects the room from excessive sunlight

Its functional features are as follows: the film transmits daylight, but prevents heat transfer from the room, which allows you to save up to 60% of the heat leaving through the windows. The method of applying each specific film is described in detail in the instructions attached to it.

Window decoration

Before painting the frame, it should be impregnated with an antiseptic. This will avoid fungal infections and rotting. If the climate in your region is dry enough, then the antiseptic may not be used. Then priming is carried out. Alkyd, acrylic and polystyrene primers are considered the most suitable for wooden frames.

After the primer is dry, the frames can be painted.

Three different types of paint can be used:

Alkyd	The oils and resins that make up its base actively prevent fading and deformation caused by temperature extremes. In addition, the frames after painting can be washed with any detergent. White spirit is used as a solvent (less often drying oil or turpentine).
Acrylic	It is based on water and polymers. It is quite resistant to sun, precipitation, abrasion. By adding color, you can choose the desired shade. There is no unpleasant odor. Dries quickly. Ordinary water can be used as a solvent.
Dispersion (water-based)	The main advantage is the ability to repaint the window surface many times without removing layers of old paint. Has good burnout resistance. Inexpensive. The solvent is water.

Painting windows is a simple process, which, however, requires a certain amount of care.

It is advisable to paint the windows in two or three layers. Thin paint properly with solvent. Better to do this as you use it. For example, pour 300-500 grams into a separate container and mix there. Optimum consistency allows for a clean, even layer that does not flow.

For the first layer, it is desirable to use a thinner paint consistency. Do not try to cover up all visible defects at once. The first layer is partially absorbed. Be sure to let it dry well, otherwise the second layer applied to a damp surface will be covered with wrinkles and bubbles.

To avoid the unpleasant procedure for removing paint from glass, use a special masking tape, having previously glued it to the glass close to the frame.

If you do not want to paint the frames, you can simply varnish them as an option. Varnishing happens:

• Opaque - using pigmented varnishes that completely hide the texture and color of the wood;
• Transparent - colorless varnish is used for it, preserving the natural appearance of the tree.

Of course, there are other types of window frame finishes, such as imitation and special. They are quite time consuming and require a certain level of professional training, as well as the use of special tools.

After the topcoat has dried, new window fittings are installed, if necessary. The process of replacing loops requires comments here. First, we correctly determine the place of their attachment. For this purpose, we insert the frame into the opening and fix it with wedges. Only when an equal gap between the frame and the opening is reached along the entire perimeter, we mark the places of the installation points. With a chisel we make a groove for the future planting of the hinge and screw in the self-tapping screws.

Was born in 1977 in Donetsk, Ukraine. Graduated from Donetsk Polytechnic Institute (now DonSTU) with a degree in Automated control systems. He worked at the Donetsk Metallurgical Plant. In 1997 he moved to Moscow, where he worked in several construction crews for 8 years.

Many owners of houses and apartments strive to make their homes as environmentally friendly as possible. For the same reason, they do not seek to replace wooden windows with plastic ones, but prefer to restore them, i.e. renovate old wooden windows.

The advantages of wooden windows:

• naturalness of wood;

• wood is hygroscopic, i.e. does not interfere with air exchange in the house;

• low thermal conductivity allows you to save heat;

• long service life of wood with proper care;

• aesthetic appearance. Wood windows can fit into various interiors.

All this speaks in favor of the restoration of wooden windows.

When do windows need renovation or repair?

First, when it starts to blow from the window opening;

Secondly, when the appearance of the window is lost due to deformation of the frames, the appearance of fungus, damage to the wood or one of the nodes (window fittings).

How to repair a wooden window with your own hands?

Let's start with the fact that we will understand the definition: window repair or restoration are similar works that do not have a fundamental difference, they consist in cleaning, filling, painting, sealing, etc. Painting of windows does not apply to repair work, more to restoration work, since it does not affect the functional qualities of a wooden window. Only the appearance changes.

Depending on the degree of deterioration of windows (frames, glass and fittings), the approach to carrying out restoration work will differ.

The technology for repairing wooden windows is quite simple, but it requires scrupulous execution of each stage of work.

Redecoration of wooden windows

Elimination of local damage. For example, fungus damage to a part of a window frame.

• identification of the site of damage. To do this, you can conduct a small test: you need to push through the shabby or suspicious parts of the frame with an awl, if the tip easily falls through, then the wood is damaged;

• cutting off an unusable layer;

• the cleaned area is dried. To do this, you can use a building hair dryer or a heater (be careful with glass, direct the air flow directly to the wood);

• application of wood hardener and preservative;

• applying putty. Layer thickness - according to the instructions. If you need to apply several layers, you need to wait until the first one dries well;

• painting the window.

More details - in the photo.

Overhaul of a wooden window - complete restoration

Tool and materials:

1. hair dryer to remove paint. Referring to the reviews of the masters, we note that many are trying to remove the paint without it, but this only damages the wood more;
2. grinder and sandpaper. For leveling the surface;
3. shoe knife for removing old paint
4. putty knife. Reconstruction of wooden windows presupposes the obligatory filling of the surface of the frame and sashes;
5. paint and varnish brushes;
6. chisels;
7. fittings, glass (if replacement is expected);
8. drying oil, varnish and / or paint;
9. putty;
10. primer;
11. sealant.

The cost of repairing wooden windows depends on the price of consumables, tools and, of course, on the condition of the frames. On the other hand, do-it-yourself window restoration does not require any special skills. However, it should be noted that this work cannot be done in one day.

A few words about preparation. It is best to do the work on a warm, sunny day. The main condition is dryness, because high humidity will have a detrimental effect on the result (wood changes geometry, dries poorly, etc.).

We remove the window sashes from the awnings. If the glass is put on a putty, we remove it with a chisel, if on glazing beads (a rail for glass), then carefully dismantle them. After that, we take out the glass.

We remove all the accessories (it is better to replace it with a new one). You also need to remove the wooden drips on the windows (the wooden planks located on the bottom of the frame outside the window are also called "dripstone"). They are attached to nails that have probably already rotted away. In general, all screws, nails, metal corners, etc. are removed from the frames.

We put the “bare” frame on a flat surface and measure it - all the diagonals must be of the same length, otherwise, the skew in some place will lead to the formation of cracks, which is unacceptable. We fasten the frame tightly to the surface (it can be a board made of boards).

Dowels for windows can be knocked out with a hammer (they are cone-shaped, therefore, you need to knock out from the thin side), provided that they are located evenly (symmetrically to the corner) and lend themselves. But, under pressure, the dilapidated frame can deform, therefore, it is better to drill out. If the dowel dangles, you can fix it before drilling - a couple of drops of superglue in the slot and after 5 minutes the drill will go like solid wood.

At the next stage, when the window is dismantled, we proceed to cleaning it from paint.

How to remove paint from wooden windows

There are several ways to remove paint from windows

Removing paint with a building hairdryer

You need to work carefully, ideally remove the glass first, or direct the flow of hot air so as to exclude direct contact with the glass. The high temperature may cause the glass to break (crack and spill out).

Set the temperature regime on the hair dryer to 250 degrees.

The task of removing the paint is not fast, but high quality. At higher temperatures, the wood will char and lose its properties as a result of the burn.

In the process of warming up, the paint will begin to rise in bubbles, which must be cleaned off with the correct tool.

It is better to do this with a boot knife (a palette knife is also suitable - a trowel knife for mixing paints on a palette in painting). The fact is that the spatula will slide over the paint, or cut into the wood, leaving burrs.

Removing paint by chemical means

You can remove old paint from the window frame with special solutions (removers, liquids). They also use the "tricky method" - kerosene and a plastic bag. It is kerosene, because solvents and solvent destroy the structure of the wood.

Execution technology

• The wooden frame must be wrapped with a cloth (rags) and the whole structure must be placed in a plastic bag.

• Moisten the cloth abundantly with kerosene, then tie the bag and leave for a day or two. During this time, the paint should soften and be easily removed (the above tool is used for cleaning).

Tip: remove the planks from the bag gradually, i.e. one pulled out - cleaned, etc., if you remove everything at the same time - the kerosene will evaporate (dry out), therefore, the paint layer will return to its original state (dry, harden) and stop separating.

Of course, there may not be such a large package for a whole window frame, therefore, you will have to disassemble the frame into elements. Or, as an option for processing the assembled frame, you can moisten the fabric and wrap it tightly with plastic wrap, additionally tying the layers with rope in order to maximally seal the surface to be treated.

Advice: keep in mind that removing paint from windows in this way is accompanied by a pungent odor, plus, the technique is fire hazardous, therefore, it must be performed on the street or on the balcony.

The inner window sill and sill also needs to be cleaned.

After removing the paint, the frame will look something like the photo. This is clearly not a suitable type for finishing work.

Remains of paint are removed with sandpaper or a grinder.

Elimination of deformation of a wooden window

Sometimes old wooden windows are deformed, which can manifest itself in the form of distortions and curvatures of the frame. For example, one or more sashes of the window led. This will be especially noticeable when installing the stack, when it falls into the selected groove, and the glass weighs in the corners, or vice versa, the corners lie down, and there is a gap in the middle.

If the window is removed and disassembled, you can put it under a press, which is made from wooden panels and a weighting agent.

If on the installed window, it is possible to insert a stop (a bar, a bar of a suitable size) in the place of the bend (curvature), and applying an effort to close the window, fixing it with bolts or invent a fastening with self-tapping screws (for example, screw the bar diagonally to the frame). All these manipulations are performed without glass.

We leave in this state for 2-3 days, after which we increase the thickness of the spacer, and thus bring it to the desired position.

The method is controversial, but sometimes it helps. Cracks may appear that can be repaired. We take a regular syringe and use it to inject PVA glue into the crack. Because the glue is liquid, it will flow out, the place needs to be pecked with tape. After drying, repeat the procedure, and then clean everything, putty and paint.

Restoration of wooden windows - restoration of decayed parts of the frame

If a fragment of the frame has rotted, it can be replaced or restored. If replacement is not foreseen, then restoration remains. To do this, you need an epoxy putty for wood (the composition may include fiberglass, which will significantly increase the rigidity of the structure).

The damaged area is cleaned of paint and debris is removed. Then putty is applied.

Apply the mixed putty to the damaged area; the mixture should fill all cracks and cracks well. Recreate the missing section so that it is slightly larger than the desired plane, i.e. there should be a volume left for subsequent grinding. Drying (hardening) of the putty lasts a day (at room temperature). Then, using a grinder or emery paper fixed to a block, we grind the surfaces until they are completely leveled.

It should be understood that such a restoration allows you to restore the appearance, but does not guarantee sufficient density, especially in places of active use (places where the window sash is tightly adjacent). But if the window is deaf or rarely used, then it is a completely self-sufficient way to get out of the situation without completely replacing the window or frame elements.

• checking the frame for damage;

• marking with dots the damaged area;

• cutting out the zone;

• preparation of replacement;

• replacement. The prepared part of the frame is installed in the desired place, fixed with glue and clamped with clamps. After 24 hours, the clamps are removed;

• grinding of the junction of the old frame and replacement. This will avoid a drop in height;

• priming;

• staining. Material prepared for the site www.site

More details - in the photo.

After cleaning the frame of paint, you need to putty it.

Putty for windows is sold as a finished product, at the same time, you can prepare it yourself. To do this, mix 3 parts of sawdust in one part of liquid nails.

The technology is simple, but the solution dries quickly, therefore, we mix quickly and in small portions.

Mixed up - putty, etc.

The homemade putty is based on glue, and therefore, it quickly hardens.

Grind the dry and dense surface with a machine or fine-grain emery paper (sandpaper).

Oil impregnation

Wood processing with drying oil is a good "old-fashioned method", time-tested. But, it should be borne in mind that the modern drying oil differs from the drying oil of the times of the USSR. Now it is difficult to find natural drying oil, as a rule, they sell something derivative, such as "Oksol". The point is that the real one is made from natural ingredients (linseed, hemp oil), and not from synthetic derivatives. There are many good impregnations on the market that have replaced drying oil and its production from vegetable oils is simply unprofitable. Alternatively, for aesthetes, you can make your own drying oil.

Coating of window frames with linseed oil is carried out with a brush, the first layer as impregnation, the second or third final. It is necessary to maintain a time interval between the layers (preferably until it dries completely, and this process is not quick). If the surface does not stick, then you can continue to work.

Hot linseed oil impregnation

A method of processing with hot linseed oil is also used. Here it should be understood that drying oil is a combustible material and, in contact with an open fire, is highly flammable.

How to heat drying oil?

You can warm up the drying oil in a water bath, and the second method is more dangerous - heating to a boiling state. To do this, make a flask from an iron pipe, one end of which is welded. Linseed oil is poured into it and heated with an electric stove or a construction hairdryer to a boil (during the heating process, fire is possible, extinguished by throwing burlap). After that, the bars of the window frame are lowered into the hot drying oil for 5 minutes, and they are crocheted. high temperature and laid to dry. According to reviews, impregnation with hot drying oil creates a coating for centuries (the effect of wooden railway sleepers).

Again, this is very important(!), heating drying oil is a dangerous undertaking.

To proliferate windows or treat them with an antiseptic, everyone decides for himself, each of them has pros and cons.

Coating with stain and varnish

If the condition of the window frames after removing the paint is good and there is a desire to preserve the naturalness of the wood, then you can treat the surface with a stain.

Stain can be used to change the shade of the wood, for example, tinted pine can look like bog oak as a result.

Before treating the window frame with wood stain, it is better to check the consistency of the solution on a separate board (preferably the same type of wood and shade), i.e. choose the tone of the wood.

Staining wooden windows not only improves their aesthetic qualities, but also makes the wood more resistant to UV rays, and also prevents rotting and the development of fungus.

In addition, the stain penetrates deeply into the structure of the wood, therefore, if later you have to sandpaper it somewhere, it will not disturb the shade and texture of the frame.

The wood stain finish is finished with varnishing. Dry window frames are covered with clear varnish (it is better to use acrylic varnish for wood, glossy or matte).

After complete drying, window fittings (awnings, handles, latches) are installed and glass is inserted.

Installing glass in a window

Correct glazing of wooden windows provides for a sealed glass installation, because it is in the micro-gap between the glass and the frame that it will blow. The glass is planted with silicone glue (aquarium sealant). Squeeze out a thin layer of aquarium glue along the groove under the glass of the window frame and insert the glass, which we fix with glazing beads. We wipe the protruding glue with a sponge dipped in vinegar. Do not rub off the nail heads, a thin layer of sealant will additionally protect them from rust. We leave the windows to dry; it will take at least a day for the glue to harden.

Sometimes the restoration of wooden windows is accompanied by the replacement of glass, if there are defects (cracks, cloudiness, abrasions, traces of welding or grinder). After all, glass also has its own resource. When ordering glass, you need to accurately measure the opening, but order by 2-3 mm. less, because the glass expands under the influence of temperature, and the resulting gap will not allow it to burst.

The glass is fixed in the frame using glazing beads and small nails. In this case, the glazing beads must be prepared in advance (impregnation with linseed oil, painting or staining). You can even drill holes in the glazing bead with a thin drill. Then, when hammering, the glazing bead will not crack and the glass will not crack.

Below is a photo gallery - a master class on installing glass on a putty, without glazing beads. For example, glass is broken, needs to be replaced, but there is no rail for fastening the glass at hand, or there is simply no need for it. Putty for glass is bought ready-made or made independently (mix chalk on drying oil).

When choosing how to process wooden windows, take a closer look at the quality of work.

If you are satisfied with the surface condition (i.e. no deep damage, uniform color), give preference to varnish. At the same time, in order to even out or change the tone of the wood, you can treat the frame with wood stain. She will also hide minor defects.

If there are many areas with putty, then it should be covered with paint.

Oil or acrylic paint is used for staining. The first lasts longer, but dries for a long time, the second, on the contrary.

First, you need to dilute the paint, too thick will poorly saturate the wood and drips may appear. Better to apply several coats of more liquid paint.

The first layer is to saturate the wood. Only after it dries well can a second coat can be applied, etc.

You need to start painting from the inner surface - from glass.

After painting, remove the tape (while the paint is still wet). If there are stained marks on the glass, they are removed with a blade.

How to remove tape marks

If the windows were not pasted over with masking tape, but with packing tape, then there will be traces that are very difficult to erase. In this case, it means pasting with tape not only of glass, but also of the frames themselves (both wooden and plastic).

The first thing that comes to mind: gasoline, diesel fuel, alcohol, cologne, etc. But, these funds cannot be used if you do not want to damage the paintwork. There is a simple and environmentally friendly way to remove traces of adhesive tape - adhesive residues on window frames are removed with vegetable oil (sunflower oil), and then washed off with a cleaning solution.

If old window hinges (awnings) are worn out, they should be replaced. The hinge replacement technology is shown below. First you need to correctly determine the place of attachment. For this, the window frame must be inserted into the window opening and secured with wedges. When the gap is the same along the entire perimeter, we mark the places for installation. With a chisel we select the groove for planting the hinge and fasten it with self-tapping screws.

Sealing and insulation of windows

A rubber seal for wooden windows, fixed around the perimeter of the frame, will reduce heat loss.

You can repair wooden windows by. Its essence is that you need to select a groove in the sash. A special euro-strip silicone tubular seal is installed in it. It is not afraid of low and high temperatures and has a twenty-year warranty.

The final touch in the restoration of windows will be the installation of window fittings (handles and latches). Only then is the window set in place.

How to update wooden windows - video

Conclusion

As a result, we note that correct instructions at each of the stages for the repair of wooden windows and periodic analysis of their condition are a guarantee that the windows will serve you for more than a dozen years.