Why gloxinia does not bloom. Why gloxinia does not bloom, what to do? Gloxinia dry lower leaves

is a very popular indoor plant. But, like any plant, gloxinia has its own secrets, troubles, in a word, there are problems when growing. To avoid them, you need to try to correct the conditions of gloxinia at the first sign of their appearance.

1. Gloxinia did not wake up after wintering

Storage location for gloxinia tubers should be cool and dark. If gloxinia tuber adult and healthy, then it is only necessary to put it in the light and water it a little, as shoots begin to grow in it. Sometimes gloxinia wakes up on its own, and when you take it out into the world, it already has an escape. However, in practice it does not always work out the way it should be.

Gloxinia does not wake up on time due to the fact that the rest period was too short, less than 4 months. It is quite possible that the wintering was too dry and the tuber dried out. But in any case, gloxinia wakes up by itself. It just takes patience.

In order not to encounter overdrying of the tuber, pots with gloxinia in winter should sometimes be lightly watered or sprinkled with water. And you can put gloxinia tubers in plastic bags, pouring some soil or wet moss into it. Close the bags or tie tightly. The bag will retain constant humidity, and due to the fact that the bag is transparent, you will have the opportunity to observe gloxinia tubers in winter. At the first appearance of leaves, you can immediately plant gloxinia in a pot.

If gloxinia did not wake up after wintering, it means that too young gloxinia was sent for wintering, which did not have time to form a tuber, or the tuber rotted.

If a gloxinia tuber was purchased in a store and after last year's flowering it did not wake up from hibernation, it is possible that the tuber was sold of very poor quality. A lot of flower growers complain about this problem. Outwardly, the tubers look quite safe, but in reality it may turn out that they are already old, or infected with some kind of infection or pests. The strength of such tubers is only enough to bloom for one season.

Dig up the tuber, inspect it: if it is very wrinkled, then most likely it is gone. Break or cut it: the tuber on the cut should be slightly yellowish or pinkish. If so, then dry the sections, sprinkle with crushed charcoal, you can treat with ordinary brilliant green or fucorcin (raspberry liquid, a strong antiseptic, has an antifungal effect, sold in pharmacies). You can treat the tuber with epin or zircon to increase the vitality of the tuber, to stimulate it to form shoots.

If the gloxinia tuber is brown on the cut, then most likely it has disappeared. If the brown color is only from one edge, cut off all the rot, process the tuber as described above and plant it in new soil.

If you want the purchased tubers to be able to endure wintering without problems, then immediately after acquiring gloxinia tubers at home, process all planting material in a solution of potassium permanganate or phytosporin. This treatment is aimed at keeping gloxinia tubers from rot.

The next step is the treatment of gloxinia tubers with Actellik or Fitoverm. These drugs will help get rid of thrips, spider mites and other pests of indoor plants.

If you purchased gloxinia in a pot, change the ground and process the tuber. The land that is sold in pots along with plants is very poor.

Perhaps the tuber is already old, and just died. Gloxinia live three to four years. If you really value this particular variety of gloxinia, try to root the cutting or leaf in advance.

2. Gloxinia did not have time to form a tuber

Spots on gloxinia leaves may appear from too bright lighting. Shade gloxinia, otherwise there will be sunburn. Spots on gloxinia leaves can appear from excessive watering, as well as if you water too cold. Gloxinia leaf spot can cause drafts. Small spots on gloxinia leaves may indicate the presence of pests on the plant. Insecticide treatments are needed. In addition, gloxinia can be affected by various viral diseases, such as tomato ringspot virus.

8. Gloxinia leaves curl

Twisting gloxinia leaves perhaps if the room is too dry and hot. However, even with too much air humidity, excessive waterlogging of the soil, gloxinia leaves also curl, bend, short pedicels form, or the formation of deformed flowers is observed. Adjust the watering of gloxinia. Treat gloxinia with actellik or fitoverm from spider mites. Twisting gloxinia leaves can be from an overdose of potash fertilizers.

9. Gloxinia leaves turned red

Reddening of gloxinia leaves begins with a lack of phosphorus. Phosphorus starvation leads to the fact that gloxinia generally ceases to bloom. To fix this problem, feed gloxinia with superphosphate or other fertilizer that contains more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen. For example, diammophoska fertilizer or liquid top dressing containing a set of additional trace elements is suitable for this.

10. Gloxinia dry lower leaves

Gloxinia dry lower leaves with insufficient air humidity, or vice versa, overflow. Possibly an infection. Treat with phytosporin or another fungicide. If this happens already in the fall, when gloxinia is preparing to retire, then this is normal.

11. Gloxinia does not bloom

Gloxinia does not bloom due to overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen only stimulates the growth of greenery, but slows down flowering. Insufficient lighting, low ambient temperature, low humidity or insufficient watering can affect the delay in flowering. Incorrect or too short wintering can also affect flowering, as a result of which the tuber did not have time to prepare for the next season. In order for gloxinia to bloom well next season, it needs a dormant period of four months.

In order for gloxinia to fully bloom, it just needs good lighting. Gloxinia love the light! From the moment they wake up, immediately put pots with gloxinia tubers in places where there is a lot of light, or organize additional lighting, otherwise the buds may not be laid at all, and if they are, there may be few of them, or the flowers may not be fully formed, turn out to be a barren flower , or not fully open.

The size of the pot also plays an important role. For growing gloxinia, it is better to choose a small, low and wide potrather than a deep one. In a large pot, gloxinia will grow a tuber for a long time to the detriment of flowering. For an adult gloxinia tuber, the pot should be about 9-12 cm in diameter. And after active growth begins in gloxinia, it is necessary to carry out fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

In addition to the pot, gloxinia annually needs a transplant and new fertile land. You can make an earthen mixture for gloxinia yourself: humus, coniferous earth, leaf earth, sand, perlite or hydrogel, peat. But before use, it must be calcined for pests and pathogens. Sprinkle the soil on a tray and bake it in the oven for 20-30 minutes.

If it is not possible to make your own earth mixture, then you will have to use a store mix, but fertilize more often.

12. Petioles of gloxinia leaves rot, rot, blacken and die buds

At gloxinia, leaf petioles rot, buds rot due to excessive waterlogging, too acidic soil pH, as well as an excess amount of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Change soil, adjust watering. In order not to overdo it with nitrogen, use only complex fertilizers, which, in addition to nitrogen, include both phosphorus and potassium. Additionally, carry out two or three treatments with phytosporin, Maxim or another fungicide to keep the gloxinia tuber from rotting.

If gloxinia buds turn black and die, then, most likely, the wintering was too cold, the soil was too poor and there was not enough food, a strong overflow. Usually, flowering problems are solved by fertilizing with phosphorus fertilizers and additional lighting. Treat with fungicides. If the problem is not corrected, then most likely there are problems with the tuber: it began to disappear.

13. Gloxinia produces a barren flower

initially on gloxinia, as usual, buds are laid, sepals open, and inside instead of a bud there is a green pea, barren flower. After some time, the pedicel, on which this underdeveloped bud grew, turns brown.

Perhaps the gloxinia tuber was stored at too cold a temperature. Cut off this pedicel, and wait for the next peduncles. After a while, see how new buds open, perhaps everything will return to normal without additional intervention. Try a few more sprays of epin to help the plant relieve stress and help the formation of normal buds.

14. Gloxinia does not fully open buds

Gloxinia does not fully open buds, and then turn brown and become soft. This is quite possible if there are too many buds on the gloxinia, and she does not have enough top dressing, she is simply not able to overpower the flowering. In this way, gloxinia itself regulates its flowering. This may be a varietal feature.

It is possible that she bloomed too early or late, when the daylight hours are short and she simply does not have enough light. Usually, this occurs during the off-season.

Under-opening of buds may be the result of an attack by a spider mite or thrips. Apply insecticide treatments.

15. Gloxinia buds dry

Gloxinia buds dry due to too dry air, high air temperature. If the summer is very hot, spray gloxinia. Hang a damp sheet over the window. Try feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

16. Gloxinia began to wither all the leaves

If gloxinia leaves begin to wither in the fall, this means that gloxinia is preparing for wintering. Reduce watering to a minimum. Wait for the gloxinia to completely wither, cut off the top of the shoots, leave only a small stump and send the gloxinia tuber for the winter. It is possible in the same pot, it is possible in a plastic bag, as was described in problem 1.

If the leaves of gloxinia began to wither during the growing season, then most likely there are problems with the tuber. From too much waterlogging, he rotted. Urgently dig, cut off the affected leaves, treat the tuber with fungicides and plant in fresh soil.

17. How to make gloxinia bloom again

If your gloxinia has faded and no longer forms flower stalks, and you want make gloxinia bloom again, cut it back to 2-3 pairs of leaves. In 1.5-2 months, the gloxinia will grow a new stem, and your favorite gloxinia will bloom again. Re-flowering can be stimulated by fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

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Gloxinia (or synningia) is one of the most beautiful and beloved plants grown at home. With sufficient unpretentiousness, many flower growers often have a question as to why gloxinia does not bloom.

An unusual perennial related to tuberous flowers was imported from Latin America. Gloxinia owes its name to the Alsatian botanist Benjamin Peter Gloksin. The second name of sinningia comes from the name of another scientist - a botanist from Boston University Wilhelm Sinning, who was engaged in the selection of gloxinia and the development of its new hybrid forms.

It was thanks to his efforts that homemade gloxinia was obtained, which is now grown by its many admirers. Sinningia are represented by many different varieties. Their flowers are the most beautiful velvet bells of amazing shapes and colors - elongated and short from pale white and pink to dark red and purple. There are also flowers in which several colors are combined with each other.

Having become the proud owner of gloxinia, you may be faced with the fact that she is in no hurry to please her flowering at home. What to do in such cases, this article will tell you.

Reasons why gloxinia does not bloom

The main factors due to which gloxinia does not bloom include the following:

middle-aged tuber;
tuber damage by various infections;
excess fertilizer;
contaminated soil;
insufficient lighting along with high ambient temperature;
unbalanced input of fertilizers;
unsuitable temperature conditions;
insufficient humidity;
wrong landing;
wrong care.

What to do if gloxinia does not bloom. To answer the question of the lack of flowering in gloxinia, each of the reasons should be considered separately.

Elderly tuber

It is likely that when buying gloxinia, an unscrupulous seller sold the old tuber. It is quite possible that the plant was purchased at a spontaneous market and is quite old. In such cases, in order for an exotic beauty to bloom, it must be watered more abundantly than young plants. It will not be superfluous to take care of the reproduction of the flower, resulting in exactly the same, but a younger plant.

Tuber damage or excess fertilizer

In this situation, extracting the tuber from the earthy coma and treating it with fungicides can help. You can also place the synningia tuber in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for thirty minutes, then dry it and replant it in the soil prepared for it, which should be new.

contaminated soil

Gloxinia refuses to bloom due to the presence of too many pests in the soil. The flower begins to fade, and this cannot but affect the flowering. If this is the cause of the synningia disease, then you can help her recover by transplanting into a new healthy soil. The composition of the soil is also important.

For gloxinia, a substrate with the presence of coniferous and leafy soil is best suited. Peat crumbs and greenhouse soil mixed with river sand are also added there.

In general, the soil should be loose, nutritious, light (for free penetration of air and water into it). The soil may not be changed if it meets the above criteria. However, it must be calcined in the oven for thirty minutes without fail. And in the already completely cooled substrate, transplant the plant.

Insufficient lighting along with high temperature

Gloxinia is very sensitive and demanding on lighting. For this reason, the plant will immediately respond to shortcomings in the supply of light. It is especially harmful for gloxinia when insufficient lighting is combined with high air temperature. This can happen in both warm and cold seasons.

In the summer, a gloxinia pot can be located in a dimly lit place at home, but the air temperature will be high. In the winter months, the sun is a rare "guest" in the windows, even during the day. Plus, it gets dark early outside.

Along with this, plants suffer from high temperatures during the heating season, being close to radiators. In both cases, the stem of gloxinia is strongly stretched, becomes thin and weak. Flowering under such conditions can be very delayed, and possibly not at all.

To avoid this problem, you should keep your pet in a bright place, monitor the temperature regime and, if necessary, illuminate the flower with fluorescent lamps during the cold season.

Unbalanced fertilizer input

Gloxinia may not bloom because the owner is overfeeding fertilizers too actively. Perhaps, there is feeding with compositions that are not suitable for this type of plant. However, the reason may also lie in the lack of additional nutrition, when gloxinia does not receive enough or does not receive the feed it needs at all. In such cases, the flower will signal this with yellowed leaves and, accordingly, stunted flowering or its complete absence.

The flowering of gloxinia directly depends on the correct and regular feeding. Fertilize gloxinia begin from the first days of April and continue until mid-August with a frequency of once a week.

To do this, use fertilizers intended for gloxinia, containing a sufficient amount of phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are not suitable for the flower. An excess of the component leads to the formation of a large rosette, but the flowers are small and ugly.

It is also necessary to avoid an excess of phosphate fertilizers, they can contribute to too rapid and short flowering. Top dressing is applied only to moist soil. Otherwise, you can burn the roots. Do not fertilize plants that have just been transplanted, as well as weakened ones. Gloxinia is not fed while preparing it for winter rest, during the sleep period itself and for some time after waking up.

Inappropriate temperature setting

Sinningia is thermophilic, therefore +18 .. + 22 ° C is considered the optimal temperature for its comfortable maintenance. The exception is the period of tuber germination. At this time, the temperature should be +25 °C. Thus, new shoots appear faster on the tuber. At a higher temperature, the plant stops developing, the tuber overheats, the leaves become lethargic, the buds do not bloom, and the already opened flowers wither.

Moving away from high temperatures, gloxinia must be rearranged to a more shaded place. A decrease in temperature is equally harmful, at which gloxinia stops growing, the roots can become supercooled and rot, the leaves turn yellow and black, the buds fall off without opening. In such cases, the flower pot is moved to a warmer place.

Insufficient humidity

During growth and flowering, high humidity is very useful for synningia. To meet this condition, the air around the plant is moistened with a sprayer. A pot of gloxinia can also be placed on a surface with wet pebbles. In conditions of dry air, the leaves of synningia turn yellow, curl into tubules, it does not bloom or sheds already formed buds.

It is necessary to spray gloxinia only with water at room temperature, avoiding moisture directly on the leaves and stem. Sinningia is watered with warm water, evenly distributing moisture on the surface of the soil, preventing water from entering the tuber itself, leaves and buds.

Wrong fit

The most common mistake when planting gloxinia is planting a tuber in a very large pot. In such a situation, the plant will throw all its strength into increasing the size of the tuber, and flowering will not occur.

When planting gloxinia, wide and shallow containers are used, since its root system is superficial and develops for the most part in width, and not in depth. The pot is chosen according to the size of the tuber - a larger container for a larger tuber.

Wrong care

The most common reason for the lack of cherished flowering of gloxinia is improper care for it. The main points of the correct and incorrect care of this plant have already been discussed above. Subject to all the rules of keeping gloxinia blooms all summer. As a rule, this happens twice a year with a short break between each flowering. However, even here there are some nuances - an improperly processed plant after the first flowering is unlikely to bloom again.

In order for gloxinia to bloom again at home, immediately after the first flowering, it is necessary to cut off the stem, leaving a few lower leaves. At this time, active feeding should be continued.

Of the sprouted several stepchildren, you need to choose and leave only viable ones. In the future, new buds are formed on them, which will surely bloom.

After the second flowering for gloxinia, it is very important to rest for several months. It is necessary that the tuber "fell asleep". In order to achieve this, immediately after the second flowering, watering is gradually reduced, and the intensity of lighting in the fall will decrease by itself. Under such conditions, gloxinia leaves dry out, after which they are completely removed.

The tuber is dug out of the soil, treated with a fungicidal solution for better storage. Then the slightly dried tuber is mixed with sawdust and placed in a dark and cool place. The storage temperature must be within +8..+15 °C. Such resting tubers are checked a couple of times a month, slightly moisturizing.

When the "rest" is organized correctly, gloxinia will wake up in January-February. It is planted in fresh soil. From this period, synningia will again prepare for its wonderful flowering.

In cases where gloxinia wakes up ahead of time, the young sprouts that have appeared are removed, and the tuber is again sent to “rest”. The winter short daylight hours will still not allow gloxinia to fully develop at home.

Gloxinia is a perennial plant of the Gesneriaceae family.. It has a tuberous root system. The stem is short erect or long curved, smooth or covered with hairs. The leaves are large oval, velvety, rich green. The flowers are bell-shaped, simple or double. The color of the flowers can be red, white, pink, purple, brindle. Gloxinia seeds are very small. Gloxinia is native to South America. The second name of the plant is synningia.

Gloxinia begins to bloom in March. Flowering lasts up to three months. The flowers of the plant are solitary, emerging from the sinuses, large, oblong, velvety. Shaped like a bell. Peduncles are soft, so large tall bells can be drooping. The diameter of the flowers is 8-12 centimeters. The buds have 4 stamens. Nectary annular or absent. The corolla is tubular, consisting of round petals with a corrugated edge, located in one or more rows.

The corolla can be solid: white, purple, red, raspberry or cream. It can be two-tone, have a border, contrasting specks or spots. The base and edges of the petals most often have a different color.. Some, instead of an open corolla, have an elongated tube and small bent petals. One plant can form from 8 to 40 buds.

Causes of Common Problems and Solutions

Why do gloxinia buds not fully open, then turn brown and become soft?

Causes:

there are too many buds on the plant with a lack of top dressing;
soil depletion;
lack or excess of lighting;
incorrect temperature regime;
low air humidity;
pests: spider mites or thrips.

Solution:

turn black

The buds wither, not blooming, become black and dry.

Causes:

wintering of tubers in a too cold room;
excessively dry air;
depleted soil;
dry soil or too frequent soil moisture.

Solution:

Examine the gloxinia tuber and treat with Epin, a drug that has an anti-stress effect.
Increase the humidity in the room.
In the heat, shade the plant, protecting it from direct sunlight.
Replace depleted soil with fresh soil.
Maintain intervals between waterings.
Establish timely soil moisture, preventing overdrying of the earthen coma.

The buds dry, still not blooming.

Causes:

Solution:

Raise the level of humidity in the room.
Arrange ventilation, avoiding drafts.
Adjust lighting mode.
Feed the plant with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
Adjust watering.
The soil should be loose and slightly moist.

Empty inside

When opened, the sepals show a small green pea instead of a bud. After a while, the pedicel turns brown. The undeveloped bud falls off.

Cause:

cold wintering;
stress from storage at too low a temperature.

Solution:

Remove the defective bud by carefully cutting off the pedicel.
After a while, a new bud will form.
A full flower should open.
Carry out several sprays with Epin according to the instructions on the package.

IMPORTANT: Do not confuse dry black buds with rotting ones. When rotting, the bud turns dark brown or black, but remains soft and moist.

Causes:

Solution:

Limit watering for a few days to allow the substrate to dry out.
Water gloxinia only through the pan.
Make sure that the earth is not too wet, but do not allow it to dry out.
With acidic soil, you need to transplant the plant with a complete replacement of the soil mixture.
Use only complex fertilizers, which, in addition to nitrogen, include phosphorus and potassium. Carry out two or three treatments with Fitosporin, Maxim or another fungicide to prevent tuber rotting. Process the instance with Epin.
If, after the measures taken, the problem does not go away, most likely the tuber has begun to disappear. In this case, you need to carefully examine it.
Trim brown spots with a sharp knife to healthy tissue.
Treat the cut with crushed activated or charcoal. Place the tuber in a new pot containing calcined drainage and new potting mix.

Preventive measures

In order for gloxinia to bloom safely, it is necessary to systematically prevent possible problems:

Monitor soil moisture, avoiding excessive moisture and drying out.
Apply good drainage.
Use warm water for irrigation.
Keep water away from leaves, buds and flowers. Do not spray the plant.
It is better to water gloxinia through the pan.
Sometimes spray the air around the plant.
every spring to prevent soil depletion.
Use hydrogel to prevent drying of the substrate.
Apply complex top dressing.
Provide adequate lighting without direct sunlight.
Keep gloxinia in a warm room, protect from drafts.
Check the plant regularly.
Systematically apply Epin or Zircon to maintain the immunity of gloxinia.

With proper care, gloxinia blooms from spring to early autumn.. To ensure healthy flowering, certain conditions must be met:

In order for gloxinia to bloom again, the stem is cut off after flowering, leaving several pairs of lower leaves. Stepchildren grow from the sinuses. Only the most powerful of them should be left. At this time, it is important to feed with a high concentration of nitrogen. These procedures will stimulate the growth of new leaves. When buds appear, fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus must be applied. Repeated flowering is always less lush than the first.

ATTENTION: It is necessary to take into account the age of gloxinia. The older the plant, the less it blooms.

Conclusion

In the process, it is important to remember the need for systematic disease prevention.. If the flower does not open or darkens, it is necessary to immediately establish the cause and proceed to measures to save the plant.

Observing all the rules of care, you can achieve abundant flowering of gloxinia. Good luck with your home gardening!

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Gloxinia (lat. Gloxinia) is a tuberous perennial that is grown mainly in pots. However, there are varieties suitable for planting in open ground. The homeland of gloxinia (you can still find the name "sinningia") are the tropics and subtropics of Asia and America. However, these brightly colored plants do well on our windowsills. Read below to learn how to care for gloxinia, when to transplant and prepare for wintering.

Gloxinia blooms in summer, and sometimes twice a year, after which the aerial part dies off. The flower needs a dormant period, which occurs in the winter.

Temperature and lighting

Gloxinia needs sufficient diffused lighting for 12-14 hours a day. Placing the flower in sunny windows requires shading, as direct ultraviolet rays leave burns on the leaves. On the northern windows of the gloxinia, stems and peduncles are stretched due to lack of light, and you can not wait for the second flowering of the year. To form a neat bush, gloxinia must be turned once a week with the other side to the light source.

The optimum air temperature for gloxinia is 18-22 ° C during the growing season. When the flower germinates tubers, it is necessary to increase it to 25 degrees, and during the dormant period - to lower it to 10-14 ° C. Drafts should be excluded. Elevated temperatures lead to overheating of the root system - gloxinia stops developing, the leaves wither, the flowers do not open or fall off quickly. At low temperatures, the plant also suffers - the leaves turn black and turn yellow, the buds wither.

Soil and watering

Gloxinia loves humidity. In a dry room, the leaves begin to curl, and the buds may not open. It is impossible to spray the fluffy leaves of the plant, but you can put pallets of water next to it. During the growing season, gloxinia should be watered abundantly, excluding water from entering the leaves and outlet. Let the top layer of the earth dry out between waterings.

When the flowering period ends at the end of August, watering should be slightly reduced. After that, gloxinia will begin to prepare for a dormant period and wither - then you need to water even less often. Gloxinia roots are thin and superficial, so wide pots are chosen for them, but very deep. The best soil for a flower can be prepared independently: mix leaf and peat soil with river sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1. Purchased soil for violets is suitable.

Gloxinia fertilizer

Growing gloxinia in open ground

From April to early August, gloxinia should be fed weekly. Fertilizers for flowering plants are suitable, containing more potassium and phosphorus than nitrogen. A good effect is the use of humic acids. Fertilizers can be combined with the application of growth stimulants, but not with fungicides.

It is important not to overfeed the plant, because such a gloxinia will have bud rot, and cuttings will take root poorly. It is better to prepare a weaker solution than prescribed on the fertilizer package. Do not fertilize sick, weakened, recently transplanted flowers, as well as those in a dormant period. If you do not fertilize healthy gloxinia at all, the plant will develop worse, the flowers will turn pale and become smaller.

Transfer

Every spring, with a new germination of tubers, they are transplanted into a new soil. In the spring, the tubers are taken out, even if they were stored in the ground, they are cleaned of old roots, in addition to the largest ones, and planted in fresh soil. The distance between the tuber and the walls of the pot should be 3-4 cm. It is better to plant immediately after the sprout appears. Before this, you can treat with a fungicide solution to prevent the development of fungal diseases.

Before planting, the tuber should be inspected for damage. If there are rotten areas, they are removed with a sharp clean blade, and the cuts are sprinkled with crushed charcoal. It happens that after wintering the tuber becomes lethargic and wrinkled. In this case, you can try to restore it.

Soak in a solution of epin or zircon. For its preparation, 10 drops are dissolved in 200 ml of boiled water at room temperature. A day later, the tuber is planted in the ground.
Soft and shriveled tuber wrap for 2-3 days in a damp cloth. If after a while it has become hard - plant it in the ground.
You can moisten the vermiculite with the solution described above and place the tuber in it for 1-2 days. If it has not sprouted, then it is buried entirely, and if there is a sprout, then it is left on the surface.

Before planting on the bottom of the pot, you need to put a layer of drainage of 1-2 cm - it can be foam, expanded clay. Then fill the container with soil, and place the tuber in the center, deepening 2/3 into the ground. Now cover the pot with cellophane or a transparent container and put in a warm place for germination.

Once a day, the greenhouse needs to be aired for 10-15 minutes. With the advent of the first pair of leaves, the greenhouse can only be covered at night, and after 4 days it can be completely removed. After the stem grows, the tuber must be covered with earth by 1 cm.

When did the gloxinia bloom?

After the end of the flowering period, the stem dies off. It is important to let the plant complete this process on its own. Gloxinia care after flowering is simple: when the leaves wither, watering is reduced, and when the upper part dries, stop it altogether.

Now the tuber can be dug up or left to be stored in a pot, providing an air temperature of 10-14 degrees. If gloxinia is still young and has not grown a tuber of sufficient size, it does not need a winter rest period.

If gloxinia has faded in early summer, you can bloom it again. To do this, after flowering, the stem and leaves are cut off, leaving only a couple of lower ones. Stepchildren are formed in their sinuses. It is necessary to leave the strongest, and remove the rest. During this period, top dressing is introduced with nitrogen for growth, and with the advent of buds - with a phosphorus-potassium complex. The second bloom will be less lush.

Outdoor cultivation

During the summer period, gloxinia can be planted in the garden. For this, large tubers with a diameter of 8-10 cm are selected. Planting is carried out when the air temperature is stable at 18-20 degrees. Choose a damp shaded place, protected from the wind. In the open field, plants grow larger than in pots, so they need to be planted at a sufficient distance from each other. Before frost, you need to dig up the tubers for storage, without waiting for the natural drying of the stem.

Difficulties in growing

Due to errors in the conditions of detention, gloxinia are attacked by pests. If gloxinia leaves become thicker, deformed, twist around the edges - most likely, the plant is affected by a cyclamen mite.

When affected by a spider mite, white dots appear on the leaves, which subsequently turn into yellow-brown spots. When thrips settles on gloxinia, the leaves acquire a silvery hue, white strokes and dots appear on them. Gradually they turn brown and dry, and their edges are wrapped up.

Often, tubers and the root system rot from excessive watering. At the same time, the leaves lose turgor, which is not restored after watering. In this case, the only way to save the plant is by re-rooting the top. The tuber must be removed and inspected, the rot cut out, soaked in a fungicide solution and tried to germinate again. Buds may not open due to drafts and watering with cold water.

Root and stem rot

Gloxinia are susceptible to fungal diseases. Their development is facilitated by excessive watering, keeping in a cold and damp room, the use of contaminated soil or planting material. Watery dark spots appear on the leaves, the stem becomes soft. You can save the plant by removing all infected parts and further processing with drugs like Maxim, Fitosporin.

Bloom

The flowering period of gloxinia falls at the end of spring-beginning of summer. The flowers are oblong, large, sometimes may have an irregular shape, be drooping. Depending on the variety, gloxinia flowers are blue, pink, white, purple, red, brindle, two-tone. If the plant fades in late summer or early autumn, it will prepare for wintering. And if gloxinia has faded earlier, it is quite possible to achieve repeated flowering.

reproduction

Gloxinia are easy to propagate. This can be done with the help of a leaf (both its part and a cutting), seeds, peduncle, process, and also by dividing the tuber.

Reproduction with a leaf

Reproduction of gloxinia by cuttings is the most popular method. A young leaf with a small petiole up to 3 cm is best rooted in boiled water and dark glass containers. To avoid decay, put an activated charcoal tablet in the water.

The cuttings are rooted and immediately in the soil. To do this, the container is filled with nutrient soil, and a hole with river sand is made in the center. A cutting is fixed in it and covered with a transparent container or polyethylene on top to create a mini-greenhouse. It can be removed with the formation of tubers - this usually happens after a month.

Propagation of gloxinia by parts of a leaf plate

It can also be propagated by part of the leaf. To do this, take a large sheet and make cuts along the veins. The sheet is placed on the ground, pressed a little and covered with a greenhouse. So you can get several young gloxinia babies, but the tubers will be smaller than when rooting the cuttings.

Reproduction by seeds

For propagation, take seeds that are collected less than 3 years ago. They are sown in the cold season - from November to February. To do this, they take a wide shallow container, cover it with leafy soil and sow the seeds without sprinkling them with anything on top. The container is covered with a transparent material and kept in a bright room with a temperature of 22 degrees.

When the first 2 leaves grow in the sprouts, gloxinia are seated at a distance of 2 cm from each other. And when the seedlings grow up to 3 leaves, they are planted 5 cm. After these leaves develop well, the plants are planted 10 cm, but again in a common bowl. You can finally plant gloxinia in pots only when the bushes began to touch each other.

Reproduction by peduncle

When gloxinia fades, you need to cut off the peduncle and put it on root in the water. After the roots grow back, they treat it in the same way as with a cutting.

Reproduction by stepchildren

In the spring, several sprouts form on the tuber. You can root all or only the strongest. Such processes are easily rooted in water, and then planted in the ground.

Tuber division

The overgrown tuber in the spring is cut into pieces with 1-2 sprouts on each. The sections are sprinkled with crushed coal, after which the delenki are planted in separate pots and germinated in the same way as an ordinary tuber after wintering. Two days after planting, the soil is not moistened. The method is risky for valuable varieties, since in places of fresh cuts there is a high risk of developing fungal infections and, as a result, loss of sprouts.

Why is it not blooming

The lack of flowering in gloxinia can be caused by several reasons:

By following all the rules of care, you can achieve lush flowering. And in order for the period to last longer, faded flower stalks must be removed immediately.

Purchase

In a flower shop, you can buy both gloxinia seeds and tubers, or a mature flowering plant. The price usually depends on the variety. Among lovers of these flowers, the Alyonushkina Gloxinia website is popular - there you can buy both adult plants and cuttings, tubers of your favorite varieties. On average, you can buy gloxinia in the range of 100-200 rubles per piece.

If you choose a tuber in a store, inspect it carefully. It should be whole and firm, not have dark decayed areas, reach 3-4 cm in diameter. In its upper part there is a small depression with dormant buds. If they are awakened, then you can see small hairy sprouts.

When buying an adult plant, carefully inspect the leaves for pests. The flower should look healthy, not have suspicious spots, with elastic monochromatic leaves. By choosing the right plant and providing it with proper care, you will get a bright bouquet on the windowsill.

Gloxinia is one of the most popular indoor plants. Gloxinia is so beautiful and unusual that, looking at its flowers, it is impossible to take your eyes off! The plant blooms almost all summer, decorating our houses with its lovely flowers.

It also happens that after a winter rest, for some reason, the plant feels bad (the stems and leaves have a yellow tint) and does not bloom in any way, or after the first flowering the second does not come, and so for many years.

Why gloxinia does not bloom?

The main reason a plant does not give color is improper care.
If the plant was bought, then, perhaps, due to the uncleanliness of the sellers, an old tuber was slipped into you and the plant needs to be watered more abundantly.
Perhaps the tuber is infected or too stuffed with various chemicals, not only to bloom, it is difficult for it to even grow.
The plant is sick, as there are many pests in the ground.
When there is not enough light in the room, and the air temperature is constantly high, the plant begins to stretch its stems up and flowering occurs much later than usual, or it does not bloom at all. In this case, you need to put a pot of gloxinia in a bright place, significantly reduce the temperature in the room.
When there is too much fertilizer or, conversely, not enough, the plant may grow poorly, turn yellow from time to time and bloom poorly.
The second flowering does not occur most often because the plant was not properly processed after the first flowering.
When the flowers begin to curl after flowering, this means that the gloxinia is in the wrong place, it is drawn in by a draft. Perhaps the room temperature is low and the plant just freezes.
With low air humidity, the plant begins to bloom much later.
The plant is planted incorrectly. Most housewives mistakenly believe that in order for a plant to be lush, it needs a large and deep pot. This is not true, in this case the tuber grows, and the flowering will be sluggish and weak.

What to do?

Try to organize the plant the right dormant period. For about four months, the plant should be at rest. This means that it needs to be placed in a cool place and watered a little from time to time.

After gloxinia tubers are transplanted, they need regular and plentiful watering. Place the plant so that it receives as much sunlight as possible. The room should be moderately humid, warm. There should be no drafts and a sharp change in temperature.

The diameter of the flower pot should not exceed 12 dm. The height of the pot should be about 10 cm. Only then will there be enough space for the tuber, and the plant itself will grow lush and flowering will take place as expected. Don't forget to repot the tubers after winter, otherwise growth in the old soil will result in modest flowering.

If you do not take into account all these important points, the flower may begin to form buds, but they will be small and there will be few of them. Most of them will turn out to be empty flowers or will not be able to fully open at all.