How to soak smallpox in the winter on the roof. Is it possible to leave OSB on the roof for the winter? Double solid board crate

OSB boards are flat shavings that are suitable for all kinds of construction works as well as for roofing. Such roofing slabs are composed of 95% coniferous or aspen wood. Quality slabs are presented on the page http://www.sferastroy.ru/e-store/goods/osp_3_plity_osb_3/. For the manufacture of this material is used binder, which can glue the chips together and give it moisture resistant properties. The adhesive used to make smallpox panels is environmentally friendly. After the technological process, they also carry out additional processing, which enhances the operational properties of OSB boards. The advantage of these boards is that they combine low cost with excellent quality.

Moisture resistant roof slabs are still the best option when creating a roof. After all, a roof covered with OSB slabs not only has a wonderful appearance, but it also perfectly resists the vagaries of the weather. Roofing from OSB can withstand without problems strong wind, rain, scorching sun and even snowdrifts. Moreover. OSB for roofing fully comply with all standards and modern rules construction, moreover, they are distinguished by extraordinary durability. These boards are produced in the USA and Canada, and their further sale is carried out through a huge network of regional warehouses.

OSB building boards for roofing are also suitable as a flooring, they are especially good for installing shinglas shingles. It is important that the lathing of such OSB boards has a flat and smooth surface, this makes it easier technological process installation of many building materials. The OSB board has a rigid base, it is not subject to deformation when exposed to moisture. And thanks to its structure of wood chips with a cruciform orientation, this construction material can be very securely attached to the roof frame.

OSB board is great for roofing works due to the fact that it is not difficult for her to give right size and shape, as it is easy to saw. The thickness of such a slab is calculated taking into account the snow loads and the pitch of the sheathing. The main qualities of OSB boards are considered: uniformity, rigidity, durability, excellent sheet geometry. High-quality fiber direction OSB boards should be perpendicular to the main beams. Especially large OSBs cover almost the entire distance between the supports and at the same time they maximize the reliability of the entire roof structure... OSB boards significantly exceed the physical and mechanical properties of plywood, therefore it is considered more suitable material with continuous roofing.

The lathing is an integral part of the roof structure; the durability and design of the entire roof depends on it. Since the types of roofing decks are different, the crate for them is also made different. For example, under folded or finished roof make a solid crate. The flooring must necessarily have increased strength and density, smoothness and surface uniformity. It is because of this that OSB for roof decking is considered the optimal decking that meets all quality standards.

18.01.2015, 11:46

OSB for the winter

Is planned bituminous shingles, we will put it ourselves. This year we will obviously not have enough time for the roof. Manufacturers under a soft roof are strongly recommended slab base type OSB. Is it possible for builders, what will the roof do, to immediately order an OSB coating, and roofing felt on top for protection, or will OSB under roofing felt badly survive the winter?

18.01.2015, 21:30
avlan
Just like my case.
Last fall, I closed the roof with OSB slabs, and laid roofing material on top, which I fastened to the self-tapping screws with slats. Otherwise it may be blown away by the wind.
In the spring, the slats were unscrewed and the roofing material was removed. The slabs have not changed externally. I also installed the shingles myself. Spent my vacation, but I laid about 200 squares of flexible shingles. The roofing material was removed as the tiles were laid so that the slab would not be open for a long time.
By the way, I screwed the tiles onto self-tapping screws with a press washer. It worked longer than on brushed nails (as TechnoNicol recommends), but with self-assembly easier to dose the degree of pressure. You will hit the nail harder, especially in the heat, when the tiles are very softened, and the nail of the nail is strongly recessed into the cap. The self-tapping screw can be tightened precisely. The screwdriver allows the layman to correct the position of the self-tapping screw in which case. And if you hammered a nail, then that's it.
19.01.2015, 13:27
Nebraska
Thanks for the answer. Will it be possible to ask you for advice if there are problems during the installation of the roof?
19.01.2015, 14:02
igorPNZ
Of course, the roof material has already been selected, but did you consider the option to put more normal material on the roof, and not the "upgraded roofing material" which is a soft roof tile and other * doles? maybe the OSB is not needed and the roof can be covered this year?
19.01.2015, 14:32
SadMan
igorPNZ, and what do you mean by more normal material? Let's say I also plan soft shingles... I don't want a slate, everything is metal too. Natural tiles are not affordable. What remains?
19.01.2015, 15:33
igorPNZ
Of course, a lot depends on the place WHERE the house is. but usually natural roof tiles- also not a topic. as small-piece, and small piece material in the presence of snow - EVIL.
Why not metal?
In my opinion - rolled metal laid with a double fold - rules. especially if it is copper;) But since such a cost is not affordable for everyone, and there are also local peculiarities, we agree to galvanizing. IMPORTANT: galvanized thickness is MORE than 0.5mm.
But this roof has one drawback: it is still possible to lay gimmoro on its own, the "brigades" strive to mimic the standard song "we always do this", it is difficult to buy rolled metal, etc.
So next option: corrugated board. sheet length - in full slope, it is not worth gaining length from "standard" shorter and easily transportable sheets. for kroilovo leads to the popalov. Profile - not less than 21. Thickness - see above. Laying - according to the "slate" principle, with self-tapping screws in the COMB. c LINING rails on it. Of course, the "brigades" do not do this, they do not need an extra gimmoroy, after a few years leaks are not their problems, but their bread ...
Well classic roof slate is not bad. especially the "mythical" which is "dyed in the mass". though she has contraindications: hail with egg, a small angle of inclination of the roof, and I would not have done slate without a cold attic.
I would not consider a metal tile, because it is not clear how to put it normally. and the manufacturer who made his recommendations would like to ask a question: how to replace the self-tapping gaskets in a few years?
Everything. The rest of the roofs are only for temporary or non-critical roofs. all sorts of roofing materials, etc. ...
19.01.2015, 17:19
SadMan
Although not in relation to roofing materials, I know firsthand about the quality of galvanizing. Therefore, I consider the likelihood of marriage and rusting as significant.
The slate doesn't look good. I want aesthetics.
As for the soft tiles (if you mean it by the words "all sorts of roofing materials there") - well, do not bend, after all, the material is time-tested. Even if not in our country.
19.01.2015, 17:35
igorPNZ

the trick is that everything bituminous materials behave badly: (crumbs - the snow pulls off, the bitumen melts and deteriorates under the sun ... and if it is also badly stuck to the base, then the canvas itself crawls and breaks with nails at the attachment point ... (for fiberglass, this is a little better ) one thing is good - the holes in the roof are usually melted by the same sun, which increases the period until repair ..
20.01.2015, 12:19
slava_gold
20.01.2015, 13:02
arhara
Well, I think it's not worth discouraging from soft tiles. The material has proven itself in reliability. And on complex roofs with a bunch of freaks - out of competition.
20.01.2015, 13:24
igorPNZ
not bars, but slats. high in a wave. along the entire length is not necessary, the main thing is that it was under the screws. thrifty aesthetes in general can lay cubes. (the question of how to get into them with self-tapping screws is another question.);)
complex roofs- it's true. with other material - a lot of gimmoru. and "roofing material" - just right :)
20.01.2015, 14:13
arhara
Soft tiles are not roofing material, they are made using a different technology, as well as the profiled sheet is not made using technology cans... It differs both in the quality of the bitumen mixture and in the base. The result is an order of magnitude higher reliability and durability. So it is not correct to call it roofing material. Or at least give examples where soft tiles did not cope with their tasks.
20.01.2015, 16:08
igorPNZ
I had a bunch of them, examples.
Problems - I already wrote which ones.
By the way, the roofing material is long-lying and quite coping with the identity on the roofs I saw. he lay well where the BASE was good and there were no crows. By the way, how do ravens relate to a soft roof? they were extremely partial to roofing material with me and pecked for nothing ...
PS: and the seam roofing is done according to the technology of cans :)
14.05.2015, 16:19
Ruslan Kudrin
Yes, there is a question of risk, roofing material will withstand the OSB too. The main thing is that the roofing material does not rise by the wind or something else does not happen to it.
01.06.2015, 23:00
Galubtsov
OSB waterproof is needed, this material is not moisture resistant in itself.
06.10.2015, 17:14
Dziko
that's exactly - not in our country.
With the quality of galvanizing - everything is complicated. but you can find a good one. besides, I know one house - there the roof is not even made of galvanized steel, but stupidly made of metal. and painted. has been standing for a bunch of years ...
And the roofing material on my roof also lay for 5 years, until it was replaced with metal ... it almost did not even leak :)
the trick is that all bituminous materials behave badly: (crumbs - the snow pulls off, the bitumen melts and deteriorates under the sun ... and if it is also badly stuck to the base, then the canvas itself crawls and breaks with nails at the attachment point ... (for fiberglass with this a little better) one thing is good - the same sun, the holes in the roof, as a rule, melt, which increases the period until repair ..
Forgive me, but you write nonsense, bitumen materials behave badly due to oxidation (aging) of bitumen, as a result, it floats, cracks for some time, after which it behaves quite steadily. The problem with cheap bitumen and coatings based on them is that by this time they already lose their ability to withstand precipitation. It is for this reason that bitumen for MS is preliminarily oxidized, or modifiers are added (which is much better). This roofing material never knew what SBS or modified bitumen was, so it lives on for about 5 years.
If you don't believe me, read the topics about the construction of houses in the USA and Canada, where 90% of all roof coatings are MS, by the way, they easily give a guarantee for 35 years, but in fact they do not change up to 50, even the cheapest single-layer shingles lie for 25 years.
Well, for reasons about our such exclusive heavy weather, I recommend that you familiarize yourself (maybe stereotypes will disappear) with long-term statistics on weather in the northern states of the United States, northern Canada and Alaska, you can also capture Finland, in all these places it is perfectly flexible roof tiles.
Well, don't discount the tastes of people, for example, I don't want the roof of my house to look like a piece of some kind of industrial zone, covered with thundering, condensing (this also applies to metal tiles) covered with streaks of rust and poor-looking galvanized steel.
Shl. By the way, I have had one of the cheapest Shinglas options on my household block for more than 10 years, single-layer tiles, on this moment there are no leaks, no loss of species (as they put yesterday) and the crows did not peck at the same time: cool:
I finish laying on the house and from experience I will say that when working alone, there is no equal in terms of convenience, although of course it is boring.
06.10.2015, 17:44
igorPNZ

One thing is convenient to put in the topic ...
07.10.2015, 01:04
Dziko
USA - by, Finns - closer to the truth, Canada - very good!
But is it used there, and how often is it repaired?
And about the industrial zone and galvanizing - this is completely by the way. look at the roofs of old Moscow for example.
Cheap shabby soft - I've seen. lot.
One thing is convenient to put in the topic ...
I studied a lot of information about the construction of houses in these countries, construction technologies, for example, frame frames, in Scandinavia and North. America is somewhat different, but in both cases, all house designs are the same for all climatic zones and the roof is no different, after the expiration of the service life, a new one is banally laid on the old one (without dismantling it), and according to their standards, this is allowed twice and only then full dismantling.
Maybe, of course, in Moscow, galvanizing looks tolerable, I don't remember, I haven't been there for a long time, and probably old masters with hands from the right place put it in old Moscow, not like the present, but in St. Petersburg, with our gavnoklimat, they constantly change galvanizing and after 3-5 years she is already with obvious streaks of rye.
I do not want to argue that MS is the best thing that mankind has invented, of course, like any other material, it has its pluses and minuses, this all means that you need to be objective, and comparing MS and roofing material only because in both cases there is bitumen, it is not correct ...
And by the way, about the roofing material. Often there is a desire of people to save money (not very clear, and the difference in price is not so big) and instead of a normal lining carpet for soft roof try to vpendyurid roofing material, you should not do this, roofing material does not stretch, with temperature changes (especially in hot summer) it goes in a wave, puffs up and all this will be visible under the tiles after the first good sun, although much less and thick lining carpets are prone to this, it is better choose thin ones on fiberglass.
07.10.2015, 08:26
arhara
Attachments: 1

Metal vs soft tiles ... the battle continues
I have part of the fence (from the side of large human traffic) made of corrugated board. Already 7 years ago, and there is not a single place where rust appears, it looks like new.
And on the roof of the house, the soft tiles lay for 5 years ... also no complaints. The little one is crumbling down, pebbles are visible in the area drain pipes, but from this "bald spots" did not appear anywhere.
Yesterday I took a picture with the first drizzle this year))

Igor, call my roofing felt roof, I'll give it to my eye: D
07.10.2015, 09:34
igorPNZ
Adventured roofing material :)
What pipe do you have?
and what is the period of exploitation of MS in Canada, for example? and the service life of the frame?
I do not have reliable information about how they build in different countries... I have infa only in my village :) and I've seen enough of everyone!
07.10.2015, 10:50
Dziko
Adventured roofing material :)
What pipe do you have?
And what is the period of exploitation of MS in Canada, for example? and the service life of the frame?
I do not have reliable information about how they build in different countries. I have infa only in my village :) and I've seen enough of everyone!
Another resource has a very sensible topic from professional builder from Canada (I'm not sure that you can post a link to it here, if you want I can throw it in a personal) has been building throughout the country for more than 20 years, as far as I remember he wrote about the average period of exploitation. MS at 35 years old, respectively, more expensive two-layer samples last longer, the most cheap option shingles of about 25 years.
I have not met any information about the service life of the frame, it is understood that a house built without violating technologies (and it is very difficult to build there with violations, after each stage of construction a state inspector comes and checks everything, only after that you can build further, otherwise big problems, fines and up to demolition if irreparable violations are detected) should serve for an unlimited time, but nevertheless, the firm's pages give a guarantee, of course, not for centuries.
Shl. I don’t understand what’s the matter, it’s not possible to write, it skips letters and slows down, while blinking and underlining everything in red, it takes 10 minutes for one message, tell me, maybe you need to change something in the forum or text settings when answering.
IMHO it is logical: usually after 25 years, children leave, and are no longer needed big house; the city is developing, where there used to be residential quarters, a business center can grow; a young family is unlikely to want to live in a house old building, in which modern goods are not available.
But myzh does not live in wild Japan, give us for centuries))
07.10.2015, 15:15
Dziko
I don’t know about Canada, but in Japan we were told that the service life of their frame frames is assumed to be 25-30 years. This is not due to the fact that after this period it will fall apart, but with life cycle people, city life and the development of technology.
IMHO it is logical: usually in 25 years the children leave, and a big house is no longer needed; the city is developing, where there used to be residential quarters, a business center can grow; a young family is unlikely to want to live in an old building, in which modern amenities are not available.
But myzh does not live in wild Japan, give us for centuries))
In Japan it is in principle logical, there on this piece of land the people live almost like we have on the sixth part of the land: cool: cities all creep, by the way can on this they have houses in the main small build, all the same to demolish. And in all the Americas with the Canads, the places are immeasurable and the secondary housing market is very developed, which means they are not particularly demolished.
About hurricanes (this of course concerns more southern states), by the way, I met funny information, houses made of aerated concrete during construction connect the foundation with the upper armopoyas met. with studs and to all this, plus mortgages, they fix the roof, otherwise the insurance companies refuse to conclude contracts, that is, if the house flies away, then only with the foundation: grin: Maybe, of course, these are new trends and we also practice this, but building 1 floor of aerated concrete like I studied everything about this case, but I have not met anything like it.
Shl. Thanks to everyone for the tips on the problem with the text, now I decided to insert a smiley and switched to the advanced mode, as a result, the whole problem disappeared, everything prints normally: grin:
07.10.2015, 16:47
igorPNZ
Well, the mortgages to the roof are obviously needed. but about the connection with the foundation - x3. or re-mortgage, or most likely "vertical reinforcement". so that the house does not squint and collapse under strong lateral load.
But the fact that in the states they build from foam concrete is news to me. I thought there were only frames, lined with bricks on the outside for strength ...

Soft roof in last years gained popularity among developers. But not everyone knows in advance that the base on which bituminous tiles are usually laid is very different from the crate on which slate, ondulin or metal tiles are mounted. Let's try to figure out how the lathing should be arranged for a soft roof and how its installation differs from the installation of a conventional lathing.

A kind of foundation for the roof is the Mauerlat, on which the entire rafter system rests. Flexible shingles do not tolerate irregularities, unnecessary bends, height differences and protruding nails in the base on which they will fit, therefore it is necessary to take the geometric parameters of the roof structure very seriously from the very beginning. All bars of the Mauerlat should lie strictly horizontally for any configuration of the structure. And the lines connecting the ends of the Mauerlats at the ends of the buildings should make an angle of 90 ° with them. If a device is also provided at the ends pitched roof, then the end Mauerlat should lie perpendicular to the longitudinal in the same horizontal plane with them.

Rafters - the frame of the future roof

If the Mauerlat is laid and secured correctly, then the installation of rafters prepared according to one template, even for curly roofs, will be easy. As a matter of fact, this is where the similarity with the frame for other roofing materials ends. For rigid roofing sheets, the sheathing can be made from non edged boards in one layer with an interval of 150–400 mm between the boards. For shingles, it is necessary to prepare a solid, even and smooth base in two layers:

The lathing itself is made of a calibrated (one thickness) edged board with a width of 100 mm, which can be mounted at intervals from 100 to 400 mm.

Solid base, on which soft tiles are glued, made of plywood or OSB-3 (OSB, OSB-3)

Plywood and / or OSB-3 board must be moisture resistant! Everything wooden structures roofs: mauerlat, rafters, ridge run, racks, struts, boards and timber for lathing, should have a moisture content of no more than 20%.

When calculating the distance between the rafter legs, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the board, plywood sheets or OSB boards. If the pitch is 500 mm, then the thickness of the board can be 20 mm, and the plywood or OSB board - 10 mm. At a step of 1000 mm, the thickness of the board should be already 25 mm, and plywood or OSB board should be taken with a thickness of 20 mm. The distance may be different, respectively, and the thickness of the boards and plywood sheets, or OSB-3 boards should also be taken differently. Here you need to understand that the board serves as a crate to support the board or plywood. If the distance between the boards is too great, sheet material can bend over time, sag between the supports, which will lead to deformation of the soft roof. The figures for the width of the board and the thickness of the materials used are named minimum. Therefore, with the availability of funds, you can purchase plywood or a plate with a thickness greater than required by calculations. In this case, the pitch of the board can be increased slightly. If the thickness is less than required, it will be better to make the sheathing of the boards solid. What is the reason for this? The point is in the mechanical characteristics of the materials:

The board can retain its rigidity for tens of years when the right conditions operation and will lie flat even with a rafter pitch of 1200 mm or more. Of course, the board must have a thickness corresponding to this step.
Plywood and OSB-3 board can sag over the years under the influence of temperature extremes and changeable humidity if it rests on points or support lines with a distance of even 500 mm between them.
With all its rigidity, the board can eventually "lead", warp, edges individual boards can get out of common plane surface. And shingles don't like that. It breaks, squeezes, wipes, which will cause the need to repair the roof.
Obviously, the use of only boards or only plywood or OSB boards will lead to the fact that very soon the bituminous tiles will begin to tear at the seams of the board or sag along with the boards or plywood. And this may mean that the installation of the roof will have to be done again.
Only the combination of the rigidity of the board and the flat surface of OSB boards or plywood will give reliability to the base for soft tiles, and there will be no need to repair the roof for a long time.

To find the best option, you need to find out the cost of all materials, and calculate the consumption for different options step. For example, the cost of the OSB-3 slab with a thickness of 20 mm is almost twice as high as the cost of this slab with a thickness of 10 mm. Training roof structures roofs for installation must take into account the fact that wood is a combustible material and subject to decay. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out appropriate treatment with fire retardant impregnations and antiseptics, and in places where rafter legs are in contact with the wall, it is better to lay waterproofing material... For example - roofing material. A layer of waterproofing must be placed under the Mauerlat.

Sheathing device

The sheathing for a soft roof must meet the following requirements:

Solid, even, smooth surface of the base without deflections, gouges, chips, cracks and protruding chips or nails.
The technical gaps between OSB boards or plywood sheets, necessary to compensate for their possible expansion, should not exceed 6 mm.
During installation, the edges of sheets and slabs must be cleaned so that they are not sharp, even if they lie close to each other.

Only if these conditions are met, shingles will serve for a long time and reliably. Another important condition is the possibility of ventilation of the roof space... If the attic is uninhabited, then under the cornice there should be a gap for air access under the roof, and under the ridge there should be "windows" for air to escape to the outside. When arranging an attic inner lining walls and ceilings will need to be done so that air can circulate freely in the space between the roofing "pie" and the cladding of the room from bottom to top. This space, by the way, will serve as additional sound and thermal insulation of the attic. Alternatively, with the initial planning of the attic with additional insulation, the best option there will be a waterproofing device under the roof. To do this, you need to pull the waterproofing membrane along the rafters, fix it with a counter-lattice made of timber with a section of 50 x 30 or 50 x 50 mm and already mount two base layers for a soft roof along the counter-lattice. The gap between the membrane and the boarding will serve ventilation duct for air circulation. In this case, remember to leave the air vents in the upper part of the roof so that the air coming from under the eaves and rising up under the roof has the opportunity to escape. Installation of a two-layer base for flexible shingles leads to an increase in the cost of the roof in terms of 1 m², but at the same time allows you to save on insulation. The finishing touch of the base device for soft tiles should be the installation of an eaves strip or a drip.

They will serve as protection against water ingress on wooden structures. rafter system... If at the same time it is planned to install gutters, then they must be installed before the drip.

02.12.2012, 21:08

Dear forum users need advice. For the winter, there is a roof under OSB 9mm. The house is made of gas silicate, there is a rafter covered with a Eurovent membrane, covered with a counter-lattice, a crate with a pitch of 30 cm. At the top of the OSB 9mm. Partially a valley carpet is laid, the roof is accordingly not insulated and the house is not heated. Roofers have received half of the money for the entire turnkey roof further work refused to conduct, citing bad weather.
Help to accept the right decision.
1 Cover the roof with cellophane with nailed slats (there are fears that moisture from OSB under unventilated cellophane will destroy OSB)
2 Cover the roof with some inexpensive membrane that allows air to pass through and retains water.
3 Recruit a new team and cover shingles before snow and frost, how many will finish (it is embarrassing that the base of the OSB is wet and under the sealed tiles it will trample and deform, then collapse)
4 Leave everything as it is. But none of the acquaintances have experience with an uncovered OSB.
Old roofers say to wait for spring and not cover anything, the new team - they really need work, they say that it is possible to lay down on a wet one and up to -5 frost with a hairdryer.
I would like to hear the objective opinion of a disinterested specialist, thanks in advance

Good day!
We build frame house, it is sheathed OSB plates, there is a roof - corrugated board, in the winter it will go in this form. During the summer, after several rains, the OSB stratified in some places. Is it possible to cover the walls with a windproof film under the future ventilation facade for the winter and will it not lose its properties by spring? And what material is better to take: Izospan A, AD? The facade will be a blockhouse.

It is possible to cover an unprotected facade with a windproof film, but this will not completely solve the problem of preserving OSB. The fact is that the windproof membrane is designed to withstand the effects of individual drops, which are the result of condensation on roofing... Good slanting rain, downpour, sleet is beyond her power, the windproof membrane will "cry" with inside... Undoubtedly, wind protection will reduce the wetting of the OSB, but it will not completely eliminate it.

A windproof membrane is a good thing when it is covered with an outer trim

OSB-3 boards, which, most likely, will sheathe the frame of your house, can be called moisture resistant only with a stretch. And then about their resistance to moisture can be said only in relation to chipboard, fiberboard, OSB-1 and OSB-2, which quickly collapse under the influence of water. OSB-3 is not intended to be used as a sheathing wall material without further finishing, unlike, for example, cement particle boards(DSP). By the way, in Canada and the USA, where did they come from? frame technologies, for the decoration of decent houses that must stand for a long time, use waterproof plywood, particle boards- the lot of the poorest.

Manufacturers give such characteristics as the degree of swelling of an oriented strand board when in water for a day. For OSB-3 it is 15%. This is not so little, contrary to the claims of sellers and manufacturers. Of course, on the walls, the particle boards are in an upright position and are only exposed to the slanting rain on one side. However, let us assume that there are showers, sleet, wet for a week or two. The low air temperature and the absence of the sun do not allow the walls to dry out.

OSB sheets that are not protected from precipitation will get wet and swell properly. At the same time, they will increase not only in thickness, but also in length and width, albeit not so significantly. As a result, the particle boards, which are rigidly fixed to the frame, will warp. And it's not a fact that when they dry they will take their original shape, permanent deformations are very likely. In addition, the attachment points will weaken, delamination of the ends may occur (it has already begun for you), the strength of the gluing will decrease. It is unlikely that critical damage will not be inflicted on particle panels in one season, but their service life will be reduced, the overall stability of the frame will decrease, this is a fact.

OSB is not completely waterproof material, with prolonged exposure to moisture, it inevitably collapses

In our opinion, the following options are possible for temporary protection of an unfinished facade from precipitation:

Stretch the Izospan A windproof membrane (18 rubles / m2) along the vertical crate, use a block 4-5 cm thick. The film is rather weak, it is not a fact that it will successfully survive the winter, it will not be torn by the winds.
Use Izospan AM (24 rubles / m2) or Izospan AS (35 rubles / m2). A three-layer windscreen is stronger, less water vapor permeable, but three times more waterproof, which means it will get wet less. Under the finishing (blockhouse), it could be stretched without lathing, right along the slabs. But in your case, a ventilated gap and crate are needed. It is necessary to ensure a free flow of air, the gap should be below and above, under the roof. Option number 2 is preferable.
Stretch along the lathing, observing ventilation, any vapor-waterproofing material is cheaper: roofing paper, construction reinforced vapor barrier, dense plastic wrap for greenhouses (enough for one season). When cladding the facade, the waterproofing will have to be removed.

While there is no finishing, plastic wrap can be used as temporary protection, with or without reinforcement.

The right decision would still be to tighten up with finances and finish by the fall. exterior decoration, sheathed the facade with a blockhouse along the vertical crate. As a result, it will come out cheaper, because the OSB boards themselves can serve as wind protection, if they are neatly fitted. You don't have to spend money on film.

The correct solution to the "puff pastry" frame wall... If the OSB boards are fitted well and the insulation is completely closed, they will also serve as wind insulation. There is no need to spend money on an additional membrane.