How to properly lay the floors in a wooden bath. The floor in the bath from which it is better to make: we understand the nuances and choose the best option

You can make the floor in the bath with your own hands, if you do everything carefully and correctly.

The long service life of your floor is fundamentally dependent on the quality of preparation of the base of your bath, the choice of insulating components and the final coating.

We will provide you and together we will consider the installation of the floors of the bath, as well as distinctive features installation and all sorts of technical errors that should be taken into account and not made.

Features of the structure of the floors in the bath

If you are building a bathhouse and plan to use it for all twelve months or more, then in this case we advise you to make a capital foundation with pouring a concrete screed.

There is an answer to the question of how to create a wear-resistant and strong floor in the bath - the construction of the bath itself as a whole is carried out taking into account a large number of different nuances. Premises with a rather specific microclimate can provide truly extraordinary operating conditions. floor covering.

Increased humidity, as well as changes in the temperature threshold and the contact of the subfloor with water, can significantly reduce the life of your floor.

The choice of a particular method of arranging the foundation in a very humid room mainly depends on the following factors:

Type of wooden floors

Base device with wooden flooring will be optimal for seasonal buildings. The tree itself has a small amount of thermal conductivity, which is why it helps to retain heat in a very humid room.

But a very high moisture threshold has the ability to provoke the process of rotting of wooden components. In order to avoid this, experts advise using floor logs, and, accordingly, flooring, which is made of coniferous wood. They are less hygroscopic because they have natural resins in the wood structure.

In general, absolutely all types of wooden coatings can be divided into 2 main categories: leaking and non-leaking.

Leaking

The first category is leaky. The boards are laid at a certain interval, which is why water is removed from the entire room as quickly as possible due to the various cracks formed in the coating, the dimensions of which range from three to seven millimeters.

The device of this base is very beneficial for the following reasons:

• Low price of floors;
• There is no need to install a drain system;
• Easy installation.

Non-leaking

The second category is non-leaking. So let's say, a monolithic coating, which is assembled from boards. You can use this category in buildings that are used all year round.

But in this embodiment, a water collector should be installed in the base, with the help of which the waste water would disappear into the sewer pipes.

The non-leaking coating device itself has the following advantages:

• Excellent thermal conductivity of the room;
• Possibility of collecting underfloor heating;
• Very long period of use.

Preparation of inventory and tools

The construction of a bath is considered a very responsible, accurate, time-consuming process, but one of the most important points is the improvement of the floors. The microclimate of the entire room generally depends on the quality indicators of installation work that are associated with the sewer system, as well as the laying of floor components.

In order to bring to life all the stages of floor construction neatly and correctly, first of all, you need to have at hand the tools you need for the job.

The device of a concrete base is possible only if you have the following tools:

To install wood flooring, you will need the following tools:

• Electric jigsaw - angle grinder;
• Roulette;
• Nails;
• Plane;
• Hammer.

In order to understand how to properly install the floors in the bath, we will provide you with step-by-step instructions for laying concrete and wooden floors.

Floor installation

Conventional floor construction

The base must be above zero level by eight to nine centimeters, in particular, it concerns the base, which is settled in the steam room. In this case, the temperature threshold in the room will remain at the same level for a very long time. At the same time, in the washing room, the base should be made a little lower than in the rest of the bath, which will make it possible to avoid water leakage, sweat, the floor into the shower room and dressing room, and so on.

Layers

The usual device of the floor in the bath is considered a very labor-intensive process:

Features of the preparation of the base

The usual construction of a warm floor in a bath begins with simple preparatory work. This requires the following: ensure a long service life of the final coating; To do this, in the process of preparing the foundation, the following work should be done:

1. First of all, a mineral pillow in the form of expanded clay granules or broken bricks should be laid in place of the floors. The usual thickness of such a drainage layer must be no less than fifteen centimeters;
2. After that, crushed stone or gravel should be poured on top, from ten to fifteen centimeters a layer;
3. Then the laid materials should be tamped.
4. The imposition of the so-called mineral cushion makes it possible to disrupt the capillarity, due to which the ground moisture increases and reaches the base, as a result of which it destroys and destroys it.

Preparation of the working mixture

In order to create a high-quality solution for pouring the screed, it is necessary to strictly observe the ratios, as well as the order of attaching the necessary elements.

In order to improve the thermal insulation qualities of this mixture, you can add to its composition sorbitol. The manufacturing process itself takes place in two stages.

The first step is to pour ten liters of clean water into a concrete mixer, then pour about two buckets of expanded sand and mix everything. Then you need to add cement (about five liters), the main point is that the cement must be grade M-300 and not lower.

After adding cement, mix again, then add about five liters of the same clean water, and all that remains is to mix all the components until a homogeneous mixture.

If necessary, you can improve the mixture, namely, increase its technical parameters by adding perlite. In order to do this, you must go through the following: ten kilograms of perlite and two to two and a half liters of water should be added to the already prepared solution. All this is very thoroughly mixed until the entire solution becomes free-flowing. After ten minutes, mix everything very well again.

At the very end, you will observe a loose composition, in its consistency it is a bit like a simple plasticine. After this stage, a screed is produced.

Filling the first layer

If the area of ​​​​the rough coating is very small, the screed should be carried out over the entire area. To fill the screed over a huge area, the room is divided into strips (conditionally), while everything needs to be processed in turn.

So, in order to lay your first layer of the mixture as accurately and correctly as possible, you need the following:

Hydro and thermal insulation of concrete floors

At the moment of hardening of the screed, it is necessary to proceed to the stage of hydro- and thermal insulation of the coating.

Before all insulating materials are laid, the concrete itself (surface) is checked for dents, bulges, cracks. If necessary, defects should be repaired.

As a simple waterproofing materials, as a rule, you can choose:

• polyethylene film;
• Rolled roofing felt;
• Bituminous mastic.

After you have already equipped the waterproofing, you need to make the floor insulation.

For these purposes, you can apply:

• Polystyrene;
• Granular expanded clay;
• foam concrete;
• Penoplex;
• Mineral wool.

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer must be from ten to fifteen centimeters. As practice shows, the most the best insulation for concrete surfaces, expanded clay is considered. It does not absorb moisture, weighs very little and has sound insulation.

Filling the final screed

Laying the final layer of the screed technologically differs very little from the previous version, however, in this case, the thickness of the screed can vary from eight to ten centimeters. With all this, it must be taken into account that in the process of pouring the mixture, it is necessary to monitor the observance of the slope towards the water collector.

However, the very arrangement of floors in small and large rooms quite different. For example, if the base area is very large, to give the structure high strength, it is worth laying a simple reinforcing mesh before pouring the screed. In this case, even with frequent use of the bath, the rough coating will not crack.

feature of wood floor

Wood flooring is considered standard view coating, which was used to equip the floors in the bath.

Despite its hygroscopicity, this species The material is still in great demand among consumers, due to the following features:

We make a wooden floor in the bath

How to carefully and most importantly, correctly lay a wooden floor? To do this, you need to mount a wooden base, which is actually very easy, but you must take into account a certain number of technical nuances.

Absolutely the entire process of arranging floors is divided into the following stages:

To build a bath, and even with a wear-resistant floor, is a very difficult task, unless, of course, the specific microclimate in the room is taken into account.

To increase the period of use of the floor covering, the following points must be considered during the installation process:

You can improve the water-repellent properties of the screed with the help of dedusting agents with the same features.

Conclusion

Installing the floor in the bath is a very long and laborious process, it will wait for a careful approach from you.

In the process of implementation of installation work, it is necessary to take into account a large number of factors:

• foundation type;
• base area;
• type of floor materials;
• microclimate;
• etc.

Only in this situation and in compliance with almost all technological rules, the floor mounted in the bath will be able to serve you for an incredibly long period of time.

This is a very difficult task, since it is necessary to take into account the numerous nuances of arranging all its premises. These "subtleties" are due, of course, to the specifics of bathing conditions. Specifically, it is expressed by high rates of temperature and humidity, direct contact of many surfaces to be finished with water, the need to maintain a special microclimate, increased sanitary and hygienic requirements for the arrangement of premises, and some others.

And one of the most "problem" areas are traditionally floors. Not only their own durability, but also the comfort of staying in bath rooms as a whole, most directly depends on how correctly their design is chosen and assembled. Therefore, the question - what is the best thing to make the floor in the bathhouse from, is one of the most important when planning such a building.

The main types of bath floors

To begin with, it is worth understanding what floor designs, in principle, can be equipped in a bath, and what material they are made of. Suitable Options not so much, since the specific microclimate has a very negative effect on most materials. In addition, the decoration of premises designed for permanent high humidity and sudden changes in temperature, should be environmentally friendly, not emitting toxic substances.

Therefore, today the floors in the bath rooms are still equipped with wood or concrete. An innovation in the design is the possibility of organizing surface heating using modern "warm floor" systems.

wooden floors

Be that as it may, wooden floors are still traditional for Russian baths. They were made in this building from time immemorial - they have not lost their relevance today. The only thing that many bath owners add to the usual wooden structure is their insulation in such a way. modern material like extruded polystyrene foam.

It makes sense to say a few words about the material that is chosen for arranging a wooden floor. In connection with Due to the fact that the flooring will be constantly exposed to moisture, it is advisable to choose hardwood for the floor of bath rooms, which absorbs less moisture, as it has a dense structural structure. These species include oak, larch or alder.

Oak boards are quite expensive, and it is not so easy to find them, therefore the best option there will be a board made of larch or alder. Both have good wear resistance and low hygroscopicity. Although we note here that this wood is also expensive, so many bathhouse owners prefer pine boards to them, as the most affordable material in terms of price. But the durability of such coatings is not outstanding.

For a flowing floor, a flat board is selected, without grooves and spikes. And for a non-leaking structure, it is better to purchase grooved boards, since only they, with a good fit in progress installation are able to create an almost hermetic coating.

Despite the fact that the wood will be in a room with high humidity, it must first be well dried, otherwise the board may “lead” after the flooring, and the floors will begin to deform.

The recommended thickness of the board for the manufacture of floorboards varies from 25 to 40 mm. The selected thickness parameter will determine the step with which the logs should be installed for fixing the boardwalk. The thicker the board, the greater the distance between the lags. So, under a board of 25 mm, it is necessary to lay logs in increments of up to 400 mm, and if a board with a thickness of 40 mm is chosen, then the distance between the logs can be increased to 600 ÷ 700 mm.

cutting board prices

edged board

So, wooden floors can be of two types, which differ in their design - this is a leaking and non-leaking floor.

Leaking wood floor

This type of floor is arranged in such a way that it does not retain moisture on its surface. To do this, a gap is left between the boards that form the surface, through which water escapes.

The flowing floor can be arranged approximately according to the following scheme:

1 — log wall baths.
2 - Plinth screen, enclosing lower part walls and corners of the room from direct water ingress. Made from board.
3 - Drainage backfill, consisting of crushed stone and gravel.
4 - Drainage pit for water runoff, filled crushed stone and gravel mix or waste building materials(for example, broken bricks, pieces of concrete, etc.)
5 - Leaking floor boardwalk.
6 - Bases for lan plank flooring. This embodiment shows the laid asbestos-cement. Instead, concrete or brick pillars can be installed as supports.
7 - Cut-off waterproofing between the base and lower crown walls.
8 - The foundation of the bath, columnar, pile or tape.
9 - Packed clay layer, redirecting spilled water from above into drainage pit(ditch).

The arrangement of the underground space of leaking floors can be done in different ways, using various materials:

• Previously, there was usually no special catchment area under the floor. The water from the bath drained directly into the ground. Therefore, the building itself was necessarily raised above ground level by at least 200 mm, usually on a columnar foundation. And a bath was built, if possible, on a slope, so that moisture would not linger under it.
• Another underground drainage system is shown in the diagram above. Under the leaking floors, a kind of drainage made of gravel and (and) crushed stone is equipped. Water flowing down through the cracks in the floor is distributed in the backfill and slowly sinks into the ground. If a rammed clay castle is made, then penetration does not go through all area - surplus water gradually flows into the drainage pit. Due to the fact that the underground has the ability to ventilate, part of the moisture simply evaporates. This is facilitated by internal channels and drilled holes in asbestos concrete pipes serving as a support for wooden flooring.
• If the bath is being built on sandy soil, then there will be no problems with water drainage, since it goes perfectly into the sand, and it will always be dry under the building.
• If the soil on the site is difficult to pass water, then under the floor you can dig a pit, a depth of 300 ÷ 400 mm, which is covered with sand. This option can be called the simplest in design. But with frequent use of the bathhouse, such drainage gradually begins to “bog down”, and it is better not to consider this approach as a serious measure.

• More complex structure the underground of a leaking floor involves the collection and drainage of water in drain hole, located at a certain distance from the bath, or into a drainage trench (ditch). In order to organize this version of the bath floor with a drain, the first step is to dig a foundation pit, the walls of which are located at an angle and converge to its central part. Then the slopes are covered with rubble, which is well compacted. After that, it is laid on gravel reinforcing mesh. Further, the slopes are concreted (pos.1). In the central part of the underground, along its entire width or length, a gutter (pos. 2) is also created using concreting, into which water that seeps through the floor will drain along the inclined walls. Instead of a gutter, also in the center or offset to one of the edges, a concrete pit can also be equipped, which is connected by a sewer pipe (pos. 3) to the drainage system (pit). The pipe is given the required slope (usually 5 cm per linear meter of length), and the water flows down it with a simple overflow.

And already above the concrete inclined base there are support pillars (pos.4). Through the mandatory cut-off waterproofing (pos. 5), beams or logs (pos. 6) are laid on them, along which the plank bath floor (pos. 7) is laid with a gap between adjacent boards of about 5 mm.

If there is a desire to somewhat reduce the cost and speed up the process of arranging the drain underground, then concrete can be replaced with a well-compacted clay coating. Compacted clay does not pass moisture well, so water will drain along such walls into a pit, and then into a drainage pit. But in this case, there will certainly be more dirt.

Now that the underground space and the water drainage scheme are organized, you can proceed to the formation of the floor itself. Its design consists of three layers:

- these are floor beams of the underground space (beam or log);

- logs laid on floor beams, perpendicular to them (sometimes logs are not mounted, they are limited to beams if they are located with a small step);

- boardwalk, the boards of which are fixed to the logs (beams).

A gap of at least 5 mm is left between the individual floorboards.

These gaps are necessary for the free flow of water down. And the width of the gap is selected taking into account the possible swelling of the wood with its constant waterlogging.

Some sauna owners make the leaking floor removable in order to provide the opportunity to take out the covering boards from time to time for airing and drying outside. If this option is chosen, it would be advisable to mount several shields from lag beams and boards, with such dimensions that it would not be particularly difficult to carry them to the place of flooring and back to the street. These shields are laid on top of the floor beams, but are not fixed to them.

The advantages of this design include the simplicity of its installation, as well as the relatively low cost of its arrangement.

The most obvious drawback of leaking floors is that the bath can only be fully used during the warm season or in regions with moderate winter temperatures. In winter colds, bath rooms will quickly cool down, and a large amount of fuel is required to heat them. Yes, and to catch a cold in such a bath, with a possible cold draft from below, is worthless.

Bar prices

Leak-proof design bath wooden floor

The design of a non-leaking floor involves the arrangement of a boardwalk underneath with a slope for water to drain. At the lowest point of this slope, there is either a gutter connected to a drainage pipe, or a drain is installed in the form of a hole covered with a grate (ladder).

Floor boards are laid immediately on the beams overlapping the space of the bath room, in the event that it is not planned to insulate the floors.

If the floor is insulated (and this is very important for a bath), then the structure is assembled from several layers - these are floor beams, a subfloor, insulation and a finished plank floor.

Boards in a non-leaking floor structure should fit as closely as possible to each other. Therefore, for flooring, as a rule, a tongue-and-groove board is chosen, which will become a guarantee of the “tightness” of the flooring. This is especially important if it is planned to lay insulation material under the coating.

In addition, it is very important in this design to correctly calculate the slope of the floor. Water should flow well through it, but one should not forget about the comfort and safety of people who will take bath procedures. Moreover, the surface can be slippery from water and soap. Usually, a finishing floor slope of 50 mm per linear meter of length is sufficient, which is, respectively, 5% or about 3 degrees in angular terms.

- To make it easier to form a slope, you can use a board or timber cut at the right angle and fixed to the subfloor boards. These elements will become a kind of lags for laying a solid finishing floor.

Prices for drain pipes

drain pipe

- At the designated location draft floor a hole is cut out for installing a drain pipe with a ladder. The drain hole itself should be located at the bottom of the floor slope or in its center if the floor slope is provided in this direction.

- The next step between the lags on the subfloor is the insulation boards - usually extruded polystyrene foam is used for this purpose, since it is not afraid of moisture. All gaps remaining between the lags and the insulation, as well as around the drain pipe, must be filled with mounting foam.

- Then, a waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation, which is sewn to the logs with staples driven in with a stapler and slipped under the frame of the drain hole.

- The edges of the waterproofing material must be raised on the walls, up 150÷200 mm and fasten with staples.

– The boardwalk is being installed, with the tightest fit of the floorboards. At the same time, they try to apply technology concealed fastening to fastener heads (nails or screws) were completely hidden (this is very important for a bath).

- The joints of the drain drain parts with the finishing floor boards must be treated with silicone sealant.

- Then, the walls of the room are sheathed, so that the waterproofing attached to them remains under the sheathing.

- At the final stage, the floor around the entire perimeter is framed with a plinth, which should also be located at an angle so that water falling on the walls flows down them onto the floors.

Wooden bath floors are not painted or varnished, they can be impregnated with drying oil or natural oils, which are applied in two or three layers.

The advantages of a non-leaking wooden bath floor can be called its following qualities:

• The possibility of creating an insulated structure.
• The possibility of using the bath at any time of the year.
• Creation of the most favorable microclimate in the bath rooms.
• Wood itself is a warm material, so it will be comfortable for sauna visitors to stay indoors.

The disadvantages of the wooden floor of this design include the following:

• With insufficient processing of lumber, as well as in the absence or improperly organized ventilation, the floors may begin to rot, or be covered with dark spots of mold along the edges.
• With its durability, wooden floors still cannot compete with concrete coatings.

Bath concrete floors

Concrete floors in the bath - also quite popular option. But their arrangement will require serious financial costs, it will take a lot of time. But, having made them once, you can be sure that the structure will last 30-40 years without repair. However, in order for the concrete floor to serve for such a long time, it is necessary to equip it in accordance with all the rules, using high-quality materials.

If you decide to make the floors in the bath concrete, you need to know how positive and negative qualities possess.

• As mentioned above, concrete pavement is the most durable in comparison with all others.
• The material is not subject to decay and resistant to moisture.
• The concrete floor after its arrangement does not require special care.
• A wide variety of concrete facing with decorative material is provided.
• Possibility of laying under a screed or under facing tiles water or electrical system"warm floor".

• This design will cost much more than wooden floors.
• The process of arranging the coating is more time-consuming and lengthy, since you will have to wait for the maturation of concrete before proceeding to its finishing and further operation.

• If you do not use the "warm floor" system, then the floors in the bath will turn out to be cold, even with the presence of insulating material. Therefore, it is necessary to install wooden gratings on top of concrete or tile.
• Concrete floor required decorative coating otherwise the floors will look unattractive.

Arrangement of concrete floors is carried out in several stages:

- The first step in the bathhouse is a sewer pipe, which will drain the used water. Its vertical branch pipe should rise above the rest of the preparatory layers.
- The surface of the earthen floor is leveled, carefully compacted. Sometimes it is necessary to make additional removal of soil, as under concrete screed it is necessary to equip sand and crushed stone (gravel) "pillows".
- The next step is to fill the earthen floor with a sand cushion 100 ÷ 1501 mm thick, which will serve as a good waterproofing layer. Sand must be well compacted.
On top of the sand, a layer of crushed stone or coarse gravel is laid with the same thickness, which must also be carefully compacted.
- For floor insulation, you can use bulk materials - the same expanded clay. It is distributed in the desired layer on top of the sand and gravel backfill.

cement prices

Quite suitable for insulation and extruded polystyrene foam. Their slabs break out a continuous floor covering of the entire floor area. If small gaps or gaps remain (for example, around the perimeter of the room or around the sewer pipe), they are filled with polyurethane foam.

— insulation material recommended from above waterproof. To do this, the thermal insulation stand is covered with a dense polyethylene film, roofing material or any modern waterproofing. Sheets of waterproofing material are overlapped and hermetically fastened between with moisture resistant adhesive tape or bituminous mastic. Cloths should be found on the walls above the future screed by 100 ÷ 150 mm.

- Then a reinforcing metal mesh is laid on top of the waterproofing layer.

- After that, metal beacons are placed on the floor surface, which should not only set the thickness of the future screed, but at the same time create the necessary surface slope to organize water flow. Lighthouses are mounted from the drain hole in the form of rays diverging towards the walls, or parallel to a slope to one of the walls, if linear water collection is organized in the form of a gutter.

- As with the option with insulation, and without it, before pouring the solution around the entire perimeter of the future screed, a damper tape is fixed to the lower part of the walls. This material is necessary to maintain the integrity of the concrete monolith during expansion under the influence of increasing temperatures.

- Now it is possible to pour the concrete solution with leveling its surface along the beacons. Alignment is done using building rule with the adoption of measures for the maximum compaction of concrete, so as not to leave air cavities in its thickness.

- The leveled screed will completely harden and gain brand strength no earlier than in a month. Finishing work, if they are planned, can be moved on in about two weeks.

- Further, if it is planned to tile the floors with ceramic tiles, then the surface of the screed is treated with a deep penetration primer, which is applied in one or two layers.
- After the primer dries, you can tile the floors with ceramic tiles.

“Today, many owners of bathhouses under construction are additionally equipping floors with heating systems. Most often, an electric "warm floor" is chosen - cable or using rod infrared mats. It is much easier to mount it, and for this it is better to choose those varieties that can be laid directly under the ceramic coating.

Prices for ceramic tiles

ceramic tile

Water heating implies connection to the heating system. That is, it is mono to resort to it only if the bath is located either directly in the house, or in the adjoining extension, or is in close proximity, where pipes from the heating circuit can be laid without difficulties and large heat losses. And the contour of the warm floor itself will have to be laid even before the screed is poured.

"Warm floor" - it's extremely comfortable!

But it also takes a lot of work! Before embarking on such a task, you need to read the instructions in order to realistically assess your capabilities. The publications of our portal dedicated to the independent creation of the system - the most difficult to implement, and electric "warmfloor" under ceramic tiles - here the task seems to be simpler.

How to cover the concrete surface of the bath floor?

The concrete floor in the bath rooms can simply "iron". That is, dry cement is rubbed into the wet surface of the screed, and left in this form. Pretty primitive, short-lived, and "gives away a public bath", whatever you say. For such a floor, wooden gratings are required, as it turns out to be cold and unpleasant for bare feet.

Much better quality, durable and simple beautiful option Finishing the concrete floor is a ceramic tile, which has all the qualities necessary for rooms with high humidity. In order for the tile to serve for a long time without the need for repair, it is necessary to produce its high-quality masonry.

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor - is it possible to master it yourself?

Of course, you can, if you are careful with and strictly follow the recommendations of the technological instructions. And you can find such instructions by following the recommended link to the article of our portal.

When choosing ceramic tiles for facing bath floors, it is necessary to take into account the features of its surface. In the bath, the pier can be both wet and slippery from soap or shampoo. Therefore, you should not choose a facing material with a smooth surface, since the likelihood of falling and getting injured increases many times over.

Today on sale it is easy to find floor tiles that suit the color and pattern. tile with a relief surface, which does not have a glazed finish. Such ceramic cladding practically does not slip, even when wet.

Another material option that can be used for flooring on concrete floors is a wood-polymer decking board, the so-called decking. This material has numerous advantages and qualities that are perfect for bath rooms,

TO positive qualities such flooring can be classified as:

• Environmentally friendly material that does not contain formaldehyde, lead and other toxic additives.
• Absolute moisture resistance. Lifetime terrace board even in more severe outdoor conditions is at least 30 years old.
• The material has high resistance to temperatures from -60 to 80 degrees.
• The boards have a well-designed embossed surface, so it is very difficult to accidentally slip on them.
• A fairly wide range of shades is on sale. The color of the coating does not change under the influence of an aggressive environment.
• The material is hygienic as it is not favorable environment for the appearance of mold or pathogenic bacteria.
• The board is easily cut into a tedious size, it is very easy to assemble. Its mass is small, and flooring can be done without special efforts take out on Fresh air for ventilation.
• The material is "warm" to the touch, and is able to fully replace the boardwalk.

Decking can be laid with shields on top of a concrete floor, or used in a leaking bath floor structure, replacing a regular board with it.

Garden parquet - this coating option can also be used for flooring on the concrete floor of the bath, in which the drain is equipped. The material has all the qualities of wood-polymer decking boards and has a very aesthetic appearance. The convenience of this material lies in the fact that, if necessary, the slabs can be dismantled very quickly, for example, for the convenience of cleaning the concrete floor, and then laid in place. The special system of their locking connections makes such laying or dismantling generally the simplest task.

Due to the fact that flooring manufacturers are constantly working on new materials, and they appear on sale from time to time, it is quite possible to choose a modern, original and affordable option for the floors in the bath.

So, the possible types of bath floor designs were considered, as well as the materials used forthem creation. Having such information, it will be easier to decide which of the options is most suitable for a particular room, will correspond to the wishes and financial capabilities of the owner of the bath

Some aspects of the creation of bath floors, obvious and rather controversial, are highlighted in the video presented to the attention of the reader:

Video: Options for creating high-quality floors in the bath

The bath belongs to the "wet" premises and all its structural elements should be built taking into account this feature. First of all, this applies to the floor in the steam room and the washing department, because it is he who is responsible for the drainage. Our conversation will focus on the types of floors for baths and the technology of their device with their own hands.

Types of floors for a bath

First of all, bath floors differ in material. As in residential premises, they can be:

The device of a concrete floor is an expensive, long and time-consuming process, but this option is also more durable: the service life is about 50 years. With a floor made of planks, it's the other way around: it's cheap, and you have to mess around less, but it will last only 7–8 years. After this period, the wood will need to be replaced.

There are no outsiders among these types, and both are quite in demand, so we will consider both options in detail.

plank floor

Floors of this type are further divided into two varieties:

In the first case, the floor is a kind of grate through which water flows directly onto the ground underneath. This is the simplest and cheap option. It is clear that with slots in the floor, the bath can only be operated in summer, that is, this design is most suitable for summer residents.

The non-leaking plank floor is solid. It is given a slope towards one of the walls, along which a plastic chute is installed to collect water. The gutter, in turn, has a slope towards the drain hole. Since the wetting of the underground space during correct installation is excluded, a heater can be placed here, due to which this type of floor can be considered acceptable for baths that are operated year-round.

Selection of materials and calculation of their quantity

Both leaking and non-leaking flooring is a covering of planks laid on beams called joists. The lags, in turn, rest on a foundation or grillage (if the foundation is columnar), and, if necessary, also on intermediate columns. Before starting work on arranging a plank floor, a number of parameters must be determined.

Section lag

The cross-sectional dimensions of the log are selected taking into account the expected distance between the supports. With a standard load on the floor (up to 300 kg / sq. M), the following relationship takes place:

• with a distance between supports of 2 m: section dimensions - 110x60 mm;
• at 3 m: 150x80 mm;
• at 4 m: 180x100 mm;
• at 5 m: 200x150 mm;
• at 6 m: 220x180 mm.

If the distance between the walls exceeds bearing capacity of the available beam, in the middle of the span, one or more intermediate supports - the so-called high chairs - must be installed on the soil base. Usually they are brick columns with dimensions in terms of 250x250 mm, mounted on a low concrete foundation size in terms of 350x350 mm.

There is also a simpler version of the “high chair”: an asbestos-cement pipe of sufficient diameter is dug into the ground, and then concrete or cement mortar is poured into it.

If there is no timber of suitable thickness available, the logs can be made composite by installing several thinner boards side by side, which in total will give the required thickness. Since such a structure, unlike a solid beam, is not monolithic, its height should be taken 10–20 mm more than indicated in the list just given.

Step between lags

Knowing the lag installation step, the builder will be able to calculate the amount of timber for their manufacture and the amount of materials for the support posts.

The step will depend on the thickness of the finishing boards. You should follow this dependency:

For the manufacture of flooring, you should use a smoothly planed board of the 1st or 2nd grade. Aspen is considered the most preferred breed - it is resistant to moisture and is warm to the touch. Oak also tolerates high humidity well, but it is colder.

You can also use conifers, but you need to be prepared for the fact that the resin protruding from them can appear in the form of ugly spots and even cause allergies in some users.

When calculating the number of boards for a leaking floor, the width of the gap between them should be taken into account - 5–7 mm.

Do-it-yourself leaky plank floor for a sauna or bath: a step-by-step guide

The technology includes the following stages: preparation of the base, laying the log and installation of the flooring.

Soil preparation

The method of preparation depends on the type of soil under the bath and how it is decided to dispose of the waste. There are two options:

• the soil has good drainage properties (sandy or rocky);
• the soil passes water poorly (clay, loam, sandy loam).

In the first case, it is enough to arrange a filter made of crushed stone or gravel covered with a layer of 25 cm under the floor. Excavation should be carried out to such a depth that there is at least 10 cm distance from the top of the filter to the bottom of the lag.

If the soil does not absorb water, do the following:

On the ground under the floor, a crushed stone pillow is arranged with a 10-degree slope towards the pit, and on top of it - one of two:

• a waterproof pallet made of roofing material, the sheets of which are welded or glued together with bituminous mastic;
• clay castle 80–100 mm thick.

To make a castle, you need to soak the clay with water and make a thick solution out of it. When laying it, it must be carefully leveled, and then, when the coating dries slightly, iron it out, slightly wetting it with water.

Important! Before backfilling the rubble, do not forget to install the support posts for the log, if necessary, and the foundation for the furnace.

Log laying

Logs should be laid so that the long side of the cross section is vertical. When installing a leaking floor, they are laid parallel to the shortest wall of the room. Logs should not touch directly the foundation or support posts. It is necessary to lay them on gaskets from 2 or 3 layers of roofing material, smeared with bitumen dissolved in diesel fuel or molten bitumen.

Advice. Anyone who is willing to spend a little more can be recommended to use a modern waterproofing agent - eurobitumen, as more effective.

Flooring installation

As already mentioned, the boards of the final flooring are laid with a gap of 5-7 mm. It is advisable not to nail the flooring to the logs, but to make it in the form of several removable shields, nailing several boards to two crossbars. The latter are arranged so that when laying the shield they are between the lags. The removable floor can be taken out to dry, which will significantly extend its service life.

Important! The boards should not come close to the walls - there should be a gap of 20 mm around the perimeter of the flooring.

Note! It is important to provide in the foundation of the bath, if it is solid, holes (air vents) through which the underground space will be ventilated.

Leak-proof plank flooring

The flooring of a non-leaking floor is made of a tongue-and-groove board, that is, one that has a groove along the edges and a corresponding ridge for a lock connection. Thanks to the lock, the cover is waterproof.

The step-by-step instruction looks like this:

1. As in the case of a non-leaking floor, a 25 cm thick bedding is arranged over the compacted soil, but since the non-leaking floor is insulated, it is better to use expanded clay instead of crushed stone. The soil must be taken out to such a depth that from the top of the backfill to the bottom wooden structures there was a distance of at least 150 mm. Although the penetration of water into the underground space is excluded, in this case it must also be well ventilated, for which purpose air vents must be arranged in the foundation. This will prevent the wood underneath from rotting.
2. We lay logs on the foundation and support posts. When installing a non-leaking floor, they should be directed across the water flow. With this design, moisture will flow down the boards along the wood fibers, that is, with minimal resistance.
3. Having set the logs, the so-called draft floor is nailed to them from below - a filing made of the cheapest, waste material, for example, a cut slab. On that structural element in the future, a heat insulator will be laid. It should also be treated with an antiseptic beforehand.
4. Next, the logs with a subfloor must be covered with a vapor barrier film. It is pressed into the gaps between the beams, as a result of which it fits both them and the filing. The edges of the film should go on the walls by about 100 mm.
5. Insulation is placed between the lags. In this case, it is better to use mineral wool as this, since it is of no interest to rodents. If the foam is laid and the mice manage to get to it, which is very likely in the conditions of a suburban area, then they will gnaw out whole holes in this material.
6. From above, the insulation is covered with a film with hydro-vapor barrier properties. It should also be released on the wall.
7. On top of the lag we fill a solid flooring from a tongue-and-groove board. Do not forget that a gap of 20 mm should be left around the entire perimeter. Each board is nailed to the joists with two nails, and they should be driven in at an angle of 45 degrees - then the boards will be pressed against each other as tightly as possible. At first, it is recommended to simply “grab” the boards, but the final fitting and fixing is best done after they are finished. Finishing work and the bath is dry.

Note! Before laying the logs, you need to prepare them in a special way, because it is with their help that the slope towards the gutter is formed. In the course of water movement, wood is cut off the beams, reducing their height more and more, and in addition, the cutting is increased on one side by 2–3 mm so that the logs lie with a certain slope. The slope should be 10 degrees. In addition, the wood must be impregnated with an antiseptic. For the treatment of bath floor boards, only an environmentally friendly antiseptic, for example, Neomid 200, should be used.

After installing the finished floor covering, you need to cut the film sticking out from under it and sew it to the walls.

Note! Wall sheathing should lie on top of the baseboard so that moisture flowing down them does not penetrate under it.

It remains to install an inclined chute with a drain hole connected to the sewer along one of the walls.

Please note that a conventional bath drain water trap is not suitable - during long downtime he will dry up. A so-called dry shutter should be used, the main element of which is a hollow light ball or a damper made of floating material. Water entering the drain will cause the ball or flapper to float, opening the drain hole. When the flow dries up, the locking element will lower under its own weight and close the hole, thus preventing the penetration of odors from the sewer.

Concrete base device

Anyone who preferred a concrete floor needs to do the following:

1. The soil base should be carefully compacted.
2. From above, fill and compact a layer of expanded clay with a thickness of 150 mm.
3. Pour concrete preparation with a thickness of 50 mm, after laying a mesh of fine reinforcement on expanded clay.
4. Treat corners between walls and floor waterproofing mastic or lay a strip of roofing material in this place, so that 500 mm of its width falls on the wall, and 200 mm on the floor. Such protection is recommended to be applied after each layer - it will not allow moisture to penetrate into the underlying layers, which could cause the development of mold and fungus in them.
5. Reinstall and connect the lower part of the drain to the sewer.

The drain consists of two parts, each of which has a flange. The part with the upper flange must be temporarily disconnected, and the lower one, which we will now install, must be closed with tape or polyethylene film so that the solution does not get into it.

Further actions depend on the installation site of the ladder. The ladder ladder (it looks like a long tray) just needs to be installed against the wall and connected to the sewer, having well lubricated the junction with sealant.

Saving sealant is not worth it: the pipe joint, being filled with a screed, will be completely inaccessible, so the likelihood of leakage should be minimized. Especially since the rubber sealing ring will dry out over time (natural aging of rubber) and will not be able to provide tightness. We remind you that the drain must be equipped with a dry valve, and not with a conventional water seal.

Similarly, you need to do with a point ladder if it is installed in a corner.

If you want to install a point ladder in the middle of the room, you need to calculate its location and installation height.

Location

This item is relevant if the concrete floor is supposed to be pasted over with ceramic tiles. From the point of view of aesthetics, it is important that the ladder is in harmony with such a coating. To do this, you need to calculate its location so that it:

• at small sizes tiles: installed instead of one of the tiles;
• with large tiles: it was installed at the junction of two or four tiles symmetrically with respect to them.

Installation height

Having determined the location, the ladder must be raised to such a height that the pipe connecting it with the sewer has the correct slope. Its value depends on the diameter of this pipe:

• with a diameter of 30 mm: the slope is 1:20 (5 cm per 1 m);
• at 50 mm: 0.02–0.03 (2–3 cm per 1 m).

To put the pipe and ladder on desired height, under them you need to put wooden linings or insulation.

Good to know: drains are available with adjustable height.

Further actions

The next step is laying the heat insulator. In this case, a material capable of withstanding loads should be used as a heater. The cheapest way is to use expanded clay, but you need to consider that its thermal conductivity is not the lowest. A more effective option is extruded polystyrene foam, which costs a little more.

Granulated polystyrene foam, which in everyday life we ​​call polystyrene, cannot be used, since it will collapse under the influence of a load. Extruded can withstand loads up to 50 t/sq. m. You can recognize it by its structure: it is homogeneous, while granulated polystyrene foam consists of many glued granules of different sizes.

The thickness of the insulation should be such that a distance of about 35-40 mm remains from its top to the bottom of the ladder flange. If expanded polystyrene is used, then in its sheets it is necessary to cut grooves for the ladder and sewer pipe.

1. We install a damper tape around the perimeter of the room immediately above the insulation. It will allow the screed to expand freely when heated. Such a tape should be installed both in the steam room and in the washing department, where the floor will be heated by hot water pouring onto it.
2. Lay on top of the heat insulator cement-sand screed. It fits under the very flange of the ladder, that is, its thickness is the same 35-40 mm. For reliability, this layer can be reinforced with wire. The solution is smoothed with a rule, after which it is left to mature.
3. We lay the waterproofing: a reliable waterproofing material, for example, roofing material or the Isoplast membrane, is laid over the entire screed with an outlet on the walls, while a hole corresponding to the inner diameter is cut out in it at the installation site of the ladder drain device. Thus, the flange of the ladder is covered with waterproofing.
4. For greater reliability, one or two more fragments of waterproofing material about 1x1 m in size can be laid on top of the ladder, cutting holes in them in the same way. Also in the waterproofing it is necessary to make small holes above mounting holes flange.
5. We screw the upper part of the ladder into place: first, the sealing ring supplied with the ladder is placed on the flange, then the upper part is installed and screwed tightly with screws. The next step will be to fill the screed again, so the ladder again needs to be covered with a film from the solution.
6. We fill in another layer of screed, forming a slope towards the ladder.

The required slope for the floor is 1 cm per 1 m of length, that is, 1:100. The shape of the surface will depend on the type and location of the drain:

1. If it is a long tray and installed along the wall, the floor is given the appearance of a single inclined plane.
2. If the ladder is point-shaped and stands in a corner, the floor is divided diagonally into two parts and each of them is given the desired slope.
3. When installing a point drain in the center of the room, the floor is divided by diagonals into 4 isosceles triangles with a slope towards the drain.

The slope of the screed is formed using plastic beacons - long rails, in which one of the faces is located at the desired angle. Often such beacons are even included in the ladder kit.

The thickness of the screed is selected so that near the ladder it is below its grate by a thickness finish coat.

At the end, lay the finish coat. The concrete floor is quite cold to the touch, so wooden grates are usually laid out on it in the bath. But even in this case, it is worth not limiting yourself to treating the screed with a deep penetration waterproof impregnation, but laying a waterproof coating on it, smooth, but not slippery. Thanks to him, the floor will be much easier to keep clean.

Can be used as a finish liquid glass or liquid rubber, but most often the floor is pasted over with waterproof ceramic tiles with an anti-slip effect. The grout should also be waterproof, and it is highly desirable to add an antifungal additive to both it and the tile adhesive.

The work on laying the tiles should start from the ladder, and if its location was calculated correctly, the tiles near the walls either do not have to be cut at all, or they will be cut at each wall in the same way.

Seams are made with a width of no more than 3 mm, grouting should be done one day after laying the tiles.

Video: installing wooden logs and warming the bath floor

You can often hear from masters: "Water will always find its way." This means that the construction of the floor in the bath, even the simplest, flowing one, must be approached very deliberately. Using our advice, you will be able to build reliable design that will serve you for many years.

You can equip the floor in the bath with your own hands if all necessary work. The service life of the floor depends on the quality of the base preparation, the choice of insulating materials and the finishing coating. We will consider the installation of floors for a bath, the features of their installation, as well as the technological nuances that must be taken into account.

Features of the device floors in the bath

How to make a durable and wear-resistant floor in the bath? The construction of the bath as such is carried out taking into account many nuances. A room with a specific microclimate provides extreme conditions operation of the floor covering. High humidity, constant temperature fluctuations and contact of the floor base with water can significantly reduce the life of the floor.

The choice of a specific method of arranging the foundation in a "damp" room depends on such factors:

• method of heat and waterproofing;
• type of foundation and the presence of an underground;
• seasonal use of the bath;
• type of soil under the building;
• structural features of the building.

If the bath is planned to be used throughout the year, in this case it is more expedient to make a solid foundation with pouring a concrete screed. In a frame building, which is used only in warm time year, it is best to make a wooden floor, since its assembly from an economic point of view will be more profitable.

Types of wood floors

The device of the base with the help of wooden flooring will be the most acceptable for seasonal buildings. The tree has a low thermal conductivity, therefore, it helps to save heat in a "damp" room. but high humidity can cause rotting wooden elements. To avoid this, experts recommend using floor logs and flooring made from coniferous wood. They are less hygroscopic due to the presence of natural resins in the wood structure.

All types of wooden coverings for baths can be conditionally divided into the following categories:

1. Leaking. The boards are laid at a certain interval, so water is immediately removed from the room due to the cracks formed in the coating, the size of which varies from 3 to 7 mm. The device of such a foundation is beneficial for several reasons:
   • simple installation;
   • low cost of floors;
   • no need to install a drain system.
2. Non-leaking. A monolithic coating assembled from boards can be used in buildings that are used all year round. However, in this case, it is necessary to install a water collector in the base, with the help of which the waste water would be discharged into the sewer. The non-leakage coating device has the following advantages:
   • long period of operation;
   • good thermal insulation of the room;
   • the possibility of assembling underfloor heating.

Necessary tools

The construction of a bath is a laborious and responsible process, but one of its most important stages is the arrangement of floors. From the quality of installation work associated with the device sewer system and laying floor materials, the microclimate in the room depends. To implement all the stages of floor construction correctly, first of all, you need to have the necessary tools at hand.

Device concrete base possible with the following tools:

• concrete mixer;
• lighthouses;
• rule (for alignment);
• building level;
• container for solution;
• shovel.

To make a wooden coating, you will need other tools:

• hammer;
• jigsaw (angle grinder);
• plane;
• roulette;
• nails.

To understand how to properly mount the floors in the bath, consider step by step guide laying wooden and concrete floors.

Standard floor construction

The base, equipped in the steam room, should be located 8-9 cm above the zero level. In this case, the temperature in the room will remain at the required level for a long time. At the same time, in the washing room, the base is made somewhat lower than in other rooms of the bath. This avoids water leakage under the floor into the dressing room, shower room, etc.

The standard flooring is represented by a multilayer cake:

• waterproofing layer (placed on the ground);
• bars under a wooden crate;
• draft coating;
• insulating materials (insulation, waterproofing);
• logs for assembling the crate;
• heat and water insulators;
• lining;
• air bag;
• wood and concrete layer;
• decorative coating.

Features of the preparation of the base

The traditional construction of a warm floor begins with preparatory work. To ensure a long service life of the finish coating, in the process of preparing the base, the following work is performed:

1. In place of future floors, a mineral pillow is laid, represented by broken bricks or expanded clay granules. The thickness of the drainage layer must be at least 15 cm;
2. Gravel or gravel 10-15 cm thick is poured from above;
3. Then the laid materials are well compacted.

Laying a mineral cushion helps to break capillarity, due to which ground moisture rises to the base and destroys it.

Preparation of the working mixture for concrete floors

To make a high-quality solution for pouring a screed, you need to strictly observe the proportions and order of addition necessary components. To improve the thermal insulation qualities of the mixture, perlite can be added to its composition. The process of preparing the solution is implemented in two stages.

First step:

1. 10 liters of clean water are poured into the concrete mixer;
2. Then about 2 buckets of expanded sand are poured;
3. The components are mixed;
4. Next, add 5 liters of cement grade M-300, not lower;
5. The mixture is well stirred;
6. Then add about 5 more liters of water;
7. Stir the solution until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

If necessary, you can slightly improve the technical characteristics of the composition by adding perlite to it. To do this, do the following:

1. 10 kg of perlite are poured into the previously prepared solution;
2. Add about 2-2.5 liters of water;
3. The components are mixed until the concrete mass turns into loose;
4. After 10 minutes, the components of the mixture are again well mixed.

Ultimately, a loose composition will be obtained, which in consistency will resemble plasticine. After that, a screed is made on the prepared base.

Filling the first layer

If the area of ​​​​the rough coating is small, the screed is made immediately on the entire site. For pouring screed on large area the room is conditionally divided into strips, processing each one in turn. How to lay the first layer of concrete mix?

1. The thickness of the "rough" screed must reach at least 12 cm;
2. The horizontality of the laid layer is checked with a level;
3. Level the mixture using the rule;
4. So that water does not accumulate on the surface of the finished floor, the screed is made with a slight slope towards the pit;
5. The slope of the screed must be at least 1 cm per meter of length.

Thermal and waterproofing of concrete floors

As soon as the screed hardens, you need to proceed to the stage of thermal and waterproofing of the coating. Before laying insulating materials, the concrete surface is checked for bulges, cracks and dents. If necessary, the defects on the coating close up.

As a waterproofing material, as a rule, the following are chosen:

• bituminous mastic;
• polyethylene film;
• roll roofing material.

After arranging waterproofing, it is necessary to make floor insulation. For these purposes can be used:

• mineral wool;
• polystyrene;
• penoplex;
• granulated expanded clay;
• foam concrete.

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be 10-15 cm. As practice shows, expanded clay is the optimal insulation for concrete surfaces. It does not absorb moisture, weighs little and also has good sound insulation.

Filling the finishing screed

Laying the finishing layer of the screed technologically differs little from the previous version. But in this case, the thickness of the screed can vary from 8 to 10 cm. It should be noted that in the process of pouring the mixture, it is necessary to monitor the observance of the slope towards the water collector.

And yet, the arrangement of floors in large and small rooms is slightly different. If the base area is large enough, to give the structure greater strength, it is worth laying a reinforcing mesh before pouring the screed. In this case, even with intensive use of the bath, the rough coating will not crack.

Features of wooden floors

Wooden flooring is a traditional type of coating that is used for arranging floors in a bath. Despite the hygroscopicity, this type of material is still in demand among consumers due to the following qualities:

• Wood is environmentally friendly and safe for health;
• The flooring has a low thermal conductivity, unlike concrete;
• Wooden flooring creates a more comfortable atmosphere in the room.

Also, do wooden base it is possible in just a few days, since the stage of “wet” work can be bypassed, which cannot be done when pouring the screed.

Laying wooden floors

How to lay wooden floors correctly? Mounting a wooden base is quite easy, but you need to take into account a lot of technological nuances. The whole process of arranging floors is divided into the following stages:

1. Construction of support posts. To install the supports, rather thick bars with a cross section of 15 cm are used. It is the racks that will experience the greatest load during the operation of the base of the floor covering. They are placed on metal or brick pillars secured with steel braces. When arranging floors in a bathhouse erected on a pile foundation, the lag is laid on a mortgage crown;
2. Underground installation. In the case of assembling leaking floors, a 20 cm layer of gravel or expanded clay is laid in the underground. If the soil is clayey and does not absorb moisture well, a reservoir is installed under the floor to collect runoff water, which by gravity flows into the sewer through a pipeline. If you need to make a non-leaking base, it is mandatory to insulate it (expanded clay, foam plastic). To ensure normal ventilation of the underground, they make ventilation holes for better air circulation;
3. Laying lag and finishing flooring. To arrange leaking floors, the logs are placed in random order, observing horizontality. When installing a non-leaking base, we make a slope from the log towards the pit. In the case of non-leaking floors, cranial blocks are nailed to the joists, on which they throw draft boards. Then they put a layer of hydro and heat insulator. Thereafter wooden crate sheathed with grooved board. Inside the "pie", between the finishing boards and the logs, there should be a gap of 10-12 cm for ventilation of the underground.

It is very problematic to build a bath with a wear-resistant floor, given the specific microclimate in the room. To increase the period of operation of the floor covering, during its installation it is worth considering such moments.

After assembling the log cabin of the bath and installing doors and windows, you need to think about installing the flooring. How to make a floor in the bath different ways, we will tell in this article. By following all the steps, you can complete the work without errors and with high quality.

Before installing the floor in the bath, you need to decide what it will be: wooden or screed. Several factors influence the choice:

1. The type of material from which the floor joists are made.
2. The material from which the bath is built.
3. What is the planned drainage system.
4. Purpose of the premises (steam room and washing room combined or separate, use dry steam or wet, etc.)
5. material side.

Wooden floor - features and purpose

The wooden floor in the baths is used in most cases. Such popularity is associated with the availability of material and the speed of installation (no need to take technical breaks in work). You can buy floorboards or logs already treated with an antiseptic and dried. And the laying process is simple, and even a beginner, after reading the step-by-step instructions, will be able to lay the floor. Of course, mistakes are made in any work, but if you watch the thematic video and read the article to the end, you can handle it. Flooring alone is difficult, so it is better to look for 1-2 helpers.

For a bath, there are several ways to lay floors, but the simplest:

• "cold" flowing;
• "warm" not leaking.

Let's consider each in more detail.

Cold floor - design features

Boards of "cold" coating are laid with a gap of 4-5 mm. It is necessary so that moisture does not accumulate in the baths, but flows into the underground. Since the floor of a similar design is cold all the time, it is recommended to use it only in the southern regions of the country or for a bath at a summer cottage.

The structure cannot be insulated, so it will not be comfortable to use the bath in cold weather. Of course, there is an option when the flooring is raised above the level of the pillow under the stove, and special ventilation is made. So the floor warms up during the firebox and dries quickly. We will talk in more detail about how to do this with your own hands in one of the following articles.

"Warm" floor - design features

The warm version is mounted from boards that are tightly adjacent to each other, which have a slight slope. The slope is mounted to a special drain, which, in turn, is built into the collector where all the moisture accumulates. From there, the water flows by gravity through inclined pipes, outside the bath. This design resembles a "pie". The upper boards are laid on the draft of the lower one, a heater is placed between them. It is hidden from moisture and steam is made into insulation.

The main advantages of this design:

1. moisture does not accumulate near the foundation;
2. the floor is additionally insulated, which means it will warm up;
3. because of the special drain system, the floorboards will last longer.

Concrete screed in the bath-features and purpose

Screeding floors in baths is a more time-consuming process that requires some skill and theoretical knowledge. A concrete screed for the bath floor can be made in several ways: pouring directly onto the ground, screed on the subfloor. It is easier to do the first method yourself.

Screed on the ground - features

A concrete screed is performed on previously removed soil and a sand cushion (this is shown in the photo). After drying, the coating has an unsightly appearance and needs finishing. Of course, you can just paint the floor with paint, but since the bathhouse will constantly be heated up to high temperatures, then chemical compositions in the use of baths are undesirable. The easiest way is to lay ceramic tiles or natural stone. But both options are expensive and labor intensive.

IN Lately know-how “warm floor” is used in the concrete screed. It is infrared, water and cable. But laying in damp rooms requires special knowledge, therefore it is not recommended to do it yourself.

It is important when using a concrete screed in baths to properly waterproof and heat-insulate the floor. The insulation is made from polymer material, for example PSB-S-35. The price of the material is from 70 rubles.

Installation of flooring in baths and saunas

Any of the options considered is suitable for a bath in a private house or cottage. And how to make the coating correctly, observing the basic rules and features of the technology, we will tell you in more detail.

Installation of a "cold" leaking floor

As lags for a leaking floor, you can use metal or wooden sticks of rectangular or rounded section. You need to choose depending on the material from which the log house was built. So, for a bath from a bar, it is better to use a tree with a cross section of at least 100 mm.

Before laying, the logs must be treated with antiseptics and impregnations. Used engine oil is used as an economy. Antiseptics take any, but better direct destination"for baths".

Wood before laying is dried to a moisture content of less than 12-10% or purchased ready-made, kiln-dried.

Laying the base under the floor

The installation of the log must be carried out parallel to the wall, which has a shorter length. To stiffen, columns of reinforced concrete are poured under them, the distance between them should not be more than 1 m. Spread out in the following steps:

• removable at installation sites upper layer soil and a pillow of crushed stone and sand (10-15 cm) and reinforced mesh is poured;
• columns of red brick are laid out or pieces of reinforced concrete slab are laid;
• the structure is waterproofed with bituminous mastic.

If the foundation for the bath was columnar, then the level of the log should be parallel and equal in level to the embedded log. With tape - the upper part of the foundation.

On top of the pillars, waterproofing is laid in 2 layers and logs are mounted. They need to be laid leaving a distance from the main walls of at least 4-5 cm, on all sides, these gaps are needed for ventilation.

Underground drain installation

It is necessary to implement a system that will quickly remove excess water and prevent it from accumulating near the foundation. To do this, you need to study the soil, since the design will depend on the absorption of moisture:

• With soil that is well absorbed by moisture, the top layer is removed around the entire perimeter of the bath and a cushion of crushed stone with a thickness of at least 250 mm is poured. It is used as a filter. Moisture will pass through the filter and be absorbed into the soil. This is the easiest way.
• With poorly absorbent soil, a slope of 10 ° is made towards a specially prepared drain (a pit at least 30–40 cm deep, in which a PVC drain pipe with a diameter of 15 cm or more, covered with crushed stone, is laid). In order for the water to drain more evenly, the soil can be covered with clay and compacted.

Laying floor boards

Floor boards can be used even without edged ones, the main thing is to level and trim them. Laying starts from the wall, stepping back 2 cm. Laying is perpendicular to the lags.

Boards can be fastened to the joists with screws or nails at an angle of 45 °. To make the gaps between the boards the same, use pieces of plywood 3-5 mm thick.

Installation of a "warm" non-leaking floor

Lags under the structure are laid in exactly the same way as in the first case. To organize the slope of the floor, you need to make cuts of 2-4 mm in each log, except for those located near the walls.

Installation of the drain system

A pit 400x400 mm and a depth of 300 mm is used as a water intake (the design diagram is in the photo above). You need to dig it between two supports. For waterproofing, a “clay castle” is made in the water collector or the walls are poured with concrete and coated with bitumen.

At the bottom, stepping back 2 cm, a drain pipe is mounted, which must be laid at an angle. Suitable for this PVC pipe with a cross section of at least 15 cm.

Laying floor boards

Floor installation begins with a rough bottom layer. For its fastening, 50x50 mm bars are attached to the beams on both sides along the entire length. Draft boards are laid on these bars, you can use any remaining after construction, even a small round timber. At least 60 mm must be retreated from the top of the beam, it depends on the thickness of the proposed insulation, it should not overlap the upper part of the log.

Waterproofing is spread on top of the subfloor. it must be overlapped, fasten the joints with bituminous mastic or adhesive tape (depending on the type of waterproofing). A heater is laid on top of the waterproofing (mineral wool, ecowool, expanded clay, sawdust with PVA, etc.). The insulation must be protected by covering it with a vapor barrier layer.

The vapor barrier is laid with an overlap of 15 cm, attached to the logs with a construction stapler.

A finishing board from the board is mounted on top. it is better to use tongue and groove with a tongue and groove. So water cannot get between the boards. It is better to mount boards by putting each subsequent one on a spike, so there is less chance of spoiling the lock connection. A pipe is mounted in an inclined drain, the end of which will go into the water collector.

It is important to leave a ventilated gap of at least 10-15 mm between the main coating and the insulation, where an additional exhaust pipe is led out.

As floorboards for a bath, it is better to use products that are resistant to water, such as larch, aspen. Otherwise, the floor will quickly rot, which will never happen with a concrete screed.

Installation of a concrete screed - features of installation in baths

The top layer of soil is removed along the entire inner perimeter, at least 30-40 cm. The soil is rammed. 100 mm of coarse-grained sand is laid on top. Then a layer of crushed stone 200 mm and two layers of roofing material. At the same time, it is important to leave space for future acceptance before filling the sand.

The next step is to dig out a place for acceptance, its walls must be concreted to a thickness of at least 50 mm. From above it is covered with rubble and a drain pipe is removed. Only after that you can proceed to the screed.

Filling the screed on the floor of the bath

The installation of the screed is carried out in the following steps:

1. The first layer is poured with concrete to a height of 5 - 6 cm, it is allowed to dry (but not completely dry);
2. A layer of thermal insulation PSB-S-35 is spread out (you can take any thickness, standard 5 and 10 cm);
3. To give rigidity, a reinforced mesh is laid;
4. The final layer of concrete is poured in 6 - 9 cm. To give hardness, you need to pour finishing layer, at an angle of 10 -15 °, towards the drain, where the pipe is mounted.

From above, a concrete screed is decorated with tiles, there are many of them in construction centers, the price starts from 210 rubles / m2. You can think of your own design and choose a cover for it. All depending on the size of the wallet and imagination.

All the options under consideration can be done by hand, and our experts are always happy to suggest how to avoid mistakes.