Do-it-yourself self-leveling polymer floors. The method of pouring polymer floors, consumer reviews and prices for materials How to make a polymer floor with your own hands

planning independent arrangement polymer floor, you need to remember that the work must be done with the highest quality so that the coating lasts as long as possible. The topic of today's article is the technology of pouring polymer floors, the procedure is complex and time-consuming.

Bulk polymer floor is the most common type of polyurethane and epoxy coatings, characterized by increased decorative properties.

The thickness of the fill in this case ranges between 2.5 mm and 5 mm. It is not advisable to make the layer thicker, because this will significantly increase costs, and the functional and decorative parameters of the floor will remain the same. Scope of application - residential and public buildings.

Types of self-leveling floors	Characteristics of self-leveling floors	Application
Thin layer floors	thickness 250-300 microns	Thin-layer coatings are used for industrial floors subjected to medium mechanical stress, protection of concrete floors from aggressive environments and dusting, giving a decorative appearance.
	thickness up to 4-5 mm, filling with sand by weight up to 50%	Self-leveling self-leveling floors are arranged in rooms with medium and high mechanical loads, where special, increased requirements are imposed on the floors. Such floors have a smooth surface (glossy or matte) with dirt-repellent properties, decorative, hygienic, easy to maintain, repairable.
Highly filled floors	thickness - 4-8 mm, filling with sand by weight - up to 85%	Highly filled floors suit in conditions with high humidity and extreme temperatures. These floors are characterized by particularly high impact and wear resistance. By properties they are close to polymer concretes.
Self-leveling, colorless epoxy	Density 1.10. Ratio A:B - 100:60. Life time 35 min Dry residue 100%.	A two-component, colorless, solvent-free epoxy system for high strength decorative topcoats.
General purpose epoxy filler	Density 1.50. Ratio A:B - 100:10. Lifetime 25 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	A two-component, colored epoxy leveling and finishing compound. polymer coatings on concrete, both under other ESP® coatings and as a stand-alone coating.
Conductive epoxy grout	Density 1.65. Ratio A:B -100:10. Lifetime 20 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	Installation of conductive protective coatings on concrete bases in warehouse, production, installation and other premises with requirements for electrical conductivity.
Polyurethane floor	Density 1.45. Ratio A:B - 100:20. Life time 30 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	These coatings, which are based on a heterochain polymer, are rigid-elastic, that is, at high mechanical strength they have a sufficient resource of elasticity. They arrange polyurethane flooring in a wide variety of premises - industrial and industrial, residential and public, in children's and educational institutions, in parking lots and in freezers, etc. According to the layer thickness, the polyurethane floor can be thin-layer (up to 1 mm), self-leveling or quartz-filled, with increased resistance to abrasion and impact loads. The polyurethane coating can be given various special properties (anti-static, anti-slip).

Among the other advantages of polymer floors, it is worth highlighting:

wear resistance;
dustlessness;
immunity to aggressive chemical compounds;
a wide range of colors - the coating can be both colored and transparent;
no smell when laying;
the possibility of drawing 3D-drawings.

Note! The quasi-3D image is made possible by the decorative polyurethane component. In such cases, the floor is poured in two stages - first, the polymer mixture is poured, then, after it dries, it is applied top coat(More on this at the end of the article).

Due to the high aesthetic level, polymer floors allow you to create full-fledged compositions using marble chips or colored sand. The filling procedure has its own nuances, we will consider them in more detail.

Stage 1. Preparation

The arrangement of a self-leveling floor made of polymers begins with preparatory work.

wooden base

Step 1. First, the room is cleaned of debris and dust, furniture is removed, decorative elements (such as skirting boards, cornices) are dismantled.

Step 2. Then everything necessary for work is prepared. To remove small debris, you can use a vacuum cleaner, and to remove glue and remnants of the old coating - grinder. By the way, the reliability and durability of the future floor largely depends on the quality of cleaning.

Step 3. Next is preliminary preparation grounds. At the same time, it is very important what material was used for the previous coating, because if it is, for example, a tree, then the base should be pre-sanded, all cracks puttied, treated with a degreasing compound - all these measures will improve the adhesion of the polymer to wooden boards. For degreasing, you can use gasoline, acetone or any other organic solvent.

If there is no difficulty in disposing of solvent residues, a surfactant or KM alkali solution can be added. Although today you can buy special means for degreasing wood (for example, Mellerud), which simultaneously protect the surface from fungus formation.

Step 4. The moisture content of the floor is measured using a moisture meter. It must not exceed 10%, otherwise polymer filling come out of poor quality.

The concrete floor is prepared for pouring in a slightly different way.

Step 1. The moisture content of concrete is estimated, if it is above 4%, then the surface is dried. To determine the humidity (in the absence of a moisture meter), you can use one old method: a rubber mat is placed and pressed tightly on the floor, and if the surface under it has not changed color after 24 hours, then the base is ready for pouring.

Moisture meter for concrete floor

Step 2. The compressive strength of the floor is also checked (the norm is 20 MPa and above). To do this, a chisel installed perpendicular to the surface is struck with a hammer. If the concrete did not crumble, and the chisel left barely noticeable traces, then the strength of the base is within acceptable limits.

Step 3. The presence of waterproofing is checked. If it doesn't exist, then further work to create a self-leveling floor are impossible, because the concrete will begin to flake off, which is especially important in the bathroom or kitchen.

Moreover, with poor-quality insulation, moisture will rise through the capillaries in the concrete coating to the polymer layer and sooner or later destroy it.

Note! Otherwise preparations for concrete base practically no different from those for a wooden base.

If the polymer floor will be poured onto the tile, then its voidness is first checked (it may appear after the tile adhesive dries). All components that have lagged behind the surface must be removed, and the voids formed must be puttied.

After that, the surface is degreased.

Stage 2. Level difference

This concept is used to denote the difference in height between the highest and lowest points of the floor surface. If the difference is 0.5-2.5 cm, then before applying the primer, the floor is poured with a mounting leveling mixture (sand and polymer self-leveling mixture in a ratio of 1: 2). A trowel is used to apply the mixture.

If the difference exceeds 2.5 cm, then the surface will need to be filled with a corrective mixture (sand with cement in a ratio of 2: 1).

Note! In both cases, instead of building mixtures you can use a special leveling solution designed for this thickness.

Stage 3. Materials and tools

After preparing the surface, you need to take care of everything you need. For work you will need:

polymer leveling mixture;
deep penetration primer mixture;
putty knife;
building level;
doctor blade;
electric drill with mixer nozzle m;
needle roller;
container for preparing the solution.

Stage 4. Primer

For applying the primer layer, it is better to use a roller. If the surface is porous, then the primer is applied in several layers and after each of them a short pause is made to dry the mixture.

Here are the main functions of priming:

improving the spreading of the polymer composition;
improved adhesion to the base;
preventing air bubbles.

If the floor will be poured in several layers, then the primer must be applied before each of them.

Note! In a room with a high level of humidity, the primer layer is covered with a waterproof composition.

You also need to remember that priming compounds are toxic, so you should take care of it in advance good ventilation premises. Moreover, the temperature should not be allowed to drop - if it drops below + 15ᵒС, then the adhesion efficiency of the primer will noticeably deteriorate.

A minimum of 24 hours is required for the primed surface to dry completely.

Stage 5. Thermal compensation

One of essential elements filler floor - a thermal expansion joint, which should be applied around the entire perimeter of the room. For this, they take wooden slats(required from hardwood). These seams will prevent deformation of the floor during significant temperature changes.

Stage 6. Solution preparation

The preparation of the solution must be taken seriously, since the poor quality of the fill will hopelessly ruin the polymer coating. It is characteristic that after preparation the solution must be poured as soon as possible, because it solidifies in a few minutes.

Note! Humidity in the room during pouring should be no more than 70%, otherwise moisture will condense on the surface.

All components are poured into the container in the ratio specified in the instructions for the polymer mixture. To avoid too rapid heating of the solution, the container can be placed in another, larger one, filled with cold water.

All components are mixed with an electric drill operating at low speed (no more than 400 rpm) until a homogeneous mass is obtained. To determine the readiness of the solution, you can use one simple method:

a small ring is cut out of the deodorant cap and placed on a flat surface (for example, a piece of sheet steel);
the ring is filled with a solution and rises;
with a uniform spread of the solution into a spot with a diameter of 3 cm, you can start pouring.

Note! If the mixture is too thick, then it will not be able to level out qualitatively, and if it is too liquid, then you will need to add a little more dry polymer.

Stage 7. Filling the polymer floor

Do-it-yourself polymer floors are poured in the same way as ordinary self-leveling ones.

Step 1. The first portion of the solution is poured along the wall farthest from the entrance with a strip 45 cm wide. Then, for better distribution, the solution is leveled with a spatula.

Note! The whole room is poured immediately, otherwise there will be drops.

Step 2. After leveling, the surface is rolled with a needle roller - this is necessary to remove air.

Step 3. After that, a new strip of solution is poured and leveled. The procedure is repeated until the entire room is filled.

Step 4. 48 hours after pouring, a polyurethane coating is applied. For the entire drying period, the floor must be protected from the sun, drafts and temperature fluctuations.

Note! If a "warm floor" is used to heat the room, then the first start of heating can be carried out only seven days after pouring. In doing so, you need to start with room temperature, gradually increasing it - by about 2-3ᵒС per day.

Also read the article on our website - do-it-yourself jellied floor.

There are two ways to create a decorative layer:

put the finished image in advance;
make a drawing on the cover.

In the first case, you need acrylic paints resistant to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation. It's more simple and cheap way, because today you can purchase the image you like in the form of a printout on a plotter (in this case, a banner fabric is taken for the base). When arranging, the fabric is covered with a thermally insulating vinyl film to increase the service life.

The dimensions of the image should exceed the dimensions of the room, because it is always easier to cut the fabric than to glue it.

Video -

The technology for creating a 3D image is as follows.

Step 1. First, the base is carefully primed. For this, the same leveling solution is used, but diluted with water just enough so that its concentration is halved. It will take a day to polymerize the primer layer.

Step 2. The image is glued to the primer and rolled with a dry, clean roller. It is characteristic that you can only move on the floor in special studded shoes.

Step 3. A transparent polymer layer 4-5 mm thick is applied. This happens in the same way as described above. After half an hour, the fill dries up and can be treated with a transparent varnish.

The complete readiness of the polymer floor for operation is determined by the drying of the varnish.

Video - Pouring polymer floors

AT recent times polymer floors are relevant and in demand Today, construction is the most important industry National economy. Special place in the industry took up work on the creation of flooring in a particular space. Today, to create a floor, you can use a variety of building materials - wooden boards, plywood, linoleum, concrete screed.

Advantages of a polymer self-leveling floor

AT last years the so-called liquid floor is becoming more and more relevant. It is also called bulk in another way. Unlike traditional building materials, it has some advantages. Floor polymer filling floors are a coating of synthetic material. They are most often used in large shopping malls, garage rooms, showrooms, etc.

Often, polymeric fill coatings are used in production due to their reliability and long service life.

Creating such coatings with your own hands is quite simple. It is necessary to consider in more detail how polymer coatings are poured, the main stages of repair, positive and negative sides bulk floor. Polymer fillings have a number of advantages, due to which the floors are in demand among the consumer.

The advantage of a polymer floor is that it is beautiful and practical.

The advantages are as follows:

Polymer coatings are various kinds(epoxy, polyurethane, methyl ethacrylate), depending on this, they can withstand the highest temperature conditions and are also moisture resistant.
Despite the fact that a polymer is used, they are clean, safe, and environmentally friendly.
The floors are very easy to clean, they are easy to wash and treat with a cleaning agent.
The polymer coating is resistant to various kinds of abrasive substances.
Self-leveling coatings can be with a glossy or matte surface, so you can choose a design that suits your taste, which will match the style direction.
Liquid coatings contain a liquid substance that rapidly hardens. Thanks to this, the floor dries quickly and adheres to any surface, whether it is wood or concrete screed. Unlike wood and concrete bases, this coating is created quickly and without much effort.

Thanks to all the above advantages, more and more people prefer to fill the coating, equipping the floors of apartments, private houses, offices, parking lots, etc. In addition, 3D coatings have been developed. They differ from the standard coverage by the presence of complex images, which not everyone can do on their own. House master.

Preparatory work for bulk coatings

The complexity of creating flooded coatings is that they need a perfectly even base. In the event that the base tiles, you will need to perform some roughness. This can be done using sandpaper or sandpaper.

Often problems can arise when leveling the base if it is made of wood. To do this, it is paramount to remove all uneven places, carefully patching them up.

The unevenness of the base of the floor surface can manifest itself well when the logs are disassembled and the old coating is removed. However, a height difference is allowed, and it is 4 mm. If possible, it is better to perform a concrete screed. If it is not done, then uneven places and defects can be removed using a special grinding machine or a grindstone.

You can install the polymer floor both independently and with the help of qualified specialists.

In order to determine the evenness of the surface, experts advise applying:

water level;
Building level;
Another measuring device.

It will also be useful to carry out a thorough priming of the surface. The primer increases the moisture resistance of the surface and increases the adhesion of the filler floor to the base. After the base is qualitatively prepared, special slats like a plinth need to be nailed along the perimeter of the room. This is necessary so that the liquid filling polymer does not spread into the voids between the floor surface and the walls. Reiki is attached to self-tapping screws, nails (if the wall is wood) or dowels (if the wall is made of concrete).

Polymer self-leveling floors: mixture preparation technology

In order to make your own PUR floor, you should carefully prepare the working liquid composition. You can buy a polymer mixture at any specialized store. After that, it must be diluted, as provided by the instructions and technology.

This is one of the most important steps of the entire repair, since the quality liquid composition outcome largely depends repair work.

You need to prepare the mixture only according to the instructions that are attached to the purchased product. The mixing process plays an important role. This must be done slowly, carefully so that not a single lump remains. In addition, absolutely all air bubbles must be removed from the solution. Mixing can be done with a special construction mixer or another suitable means. Next important step- pouring the composition. The liquid mixture should be applied to the floor base from the area of the room furthest from the doors and carefully move towards the doors. The correct thickness of the floor layer should be approximately 4 mm.

Before proceeding with the installation of the polymer floor, it is necessary to correctly select and prepare a special mixture for pouring

If the layer is thinner, then it will turn out:

Not durable;
Unreliable;
Not durable.

A very thin layer can only be poured onto a finished base as a supplement. It is best to pour the composition together. One home master holds a bucket of polymer composition and carefully pours it onto the floor, while the second smoothes the surface. For alignment, you can use a wood lath. After the polymer filler floor dries qualitatively, you can begin to apply varnish. Lacquer is necessary in order for the finished coating to be aesthetic, shiny, more protected. In addition, the varnish increases the wear resistance of the material, and makes it the smoothest. The time for the polymer to dry is approximately 30 minutes. But it is better to do everything in accordance with the instructions on the packaging of the material. The varnish is applied only on the already hardened surface. Laying the coating should be in 3 or even 4 layers. Walking on only a flooded filler floor is not immediately possible. So that there are no traces and defects, it is better to step on the finished floor after a day.

Do-it-yourself tools and materials for a polymer floor

In order to make a PUR floor based on a polymer composition, you should have a whole arsenal of tools and building materials available. The set should consist of certain items and materials.

You should prepare the necessary materials and tools in advance so as not to be distracted during the work

Namely:

Water or building level;
Rail for leveling the polymer solution when it is poured;
Brush;
Putty knife;
Primer;
The solution, if a concrete screed will be arranged;
Container for polymer composition;
Mixer.

In addition, it is necessary to prepare wooden slats for fencing the room around the perimeter for 3D flooding. In this case the most important detail there will be a film with a pattern or a coloring composition. In order to give the flooring aesthetics, you will need to varnish the surface.

Types of polymer floors (video)

As a result, one thing can be noted that the poured polymer floor is an innovative design decision for repair work in a cottage or apartment building. This technology has found wide application in production.

About the varieties of self-leveling polymer floors, their advantages and applications are described in.

Now it makes sense to learn about the technology of their filling, especially since it is quite peculiar, has many important nuances.

In addition, it will probably be interesting for readers to read reviews of such flooring from people who have already experienced them in everyday use, as well as to navigate the approximate price level for such materials.

Filling polymer floors involves several characteristic stages of work, carried out in a strictly defined sequence, in compliance with the technological requirements established by the manufacturer of the system.

It is clear that different types coatings, there can be significant differences in the nuances of preparing the mixture and the timing of its use, the time intervals for drying each layer, the use of special additives, fillers or coloring pigments.

However, the approximate sequence of actions is the same for all types of self-leveling polymer floors.

For example, we will consider the technology of pouring a two-component epoxy-based coating of the Elakor-ED system, which is widely used in industrial and private construction, includes all necessary components for all stages, and has earned the most positive feedback from consumers.

Materials and tools for work

The amount of material is indicated based on pouring 10 square meters. meters of floor with a thickness of 2.5 mm (this is the minimum allowable layer for this system). So, high-quality pouring of an epoxy polymer floor will require:

Soil two-component "Elakor-ED 2K / 100" - 3 kg.
Self-leveling floor "Elakor-ED" - 25 kg (7 kg per base layer, and 18 on the main one).
Purified quartz sand, fraction 0.3 - 0.6 mm - 23-25 kg.
Finishing polyurethane varnish "Elakor-PU - Lux" - 1.2 - 1.5 kg.

The necessary tools are prepared in advance:

Spatulas different widths, from 200 to 600 mm.
Synthetic rollers with a pile of 10-15 mm.
Needle roller.
Squeegee with adjustable clearance.
Drill with a nozzle for mixing building mixtures. The drill must have speed control and reverse.
If covered big square, you will need nozzles for work shoes - paint shoes.
A hard synthetic broom, a powerful vacuum cleaner (preferably an industrial one).
Containers for mixing the component solution.
Be sure to use protective equipment for the skin of the hands and face.

Foundation preparation

The pouring work begins with the preparation of the base. Polymer floors can be poured onto a concrete screed, wooden surface, old tile, but any kind of surface requires careful revision and appropriate preparation.

One of the most important requirements is the horizontal surface. Epoxy flooring is self leveling. However, large level differences will lead to serious overruns of enough expensive material and a general increase in the cost of coverage.

A height difference of up to 1 mm is considered acceptable. running meter. If it is larger, it makes sense to first eliminate it with a leveling screed.

The concrete floor should not have unsealed cracks, deep potholes, crumbling areas.

Absorbed oil or other stains are unacceptable - they are hollowed out to clean concrete, followed by pothole repair.

Used for repair work polymer putties, which can be supplemented with quartz sand.

The residual moisture content of the cement base must not exceed 4%. If the work will be carried out on fresh concrete, the minimum curing period must be at least 4 weeks.

When covering a wooden floor, pay Special attention on the stability of the base - it should not "play".

The tree must be cleaned of contaminants, old paint, sanded and sanded. Relative humidity of wood is allowed up to 10%.

When laying on a tile, all tiles must be tapped to identify loose ones.

They should be removed from the common masonry, and the resulting recesses should be sealed with putty.

Immediately before applying the primary primer layer (no more than 2 hours), the entire floor surface must be cleaned again of debris and dust with a powerful vacuum cleaner.

Conditions for work on pouring the floor

Filling technology involves compliance with certain conditions for work:

The air temperature in the room and the surface of the base is within +5 ... +25 degrees.
Air humidity - not higher than 80%.
The optimum temperature of the components during their mixing is 15-20 degrees.
To prepare the solution, it is necessary to choose a place that will exclude the possibility of accidental splashes on the surface to be poured.

Priming the floor is intended to clog the pores of concrete, improve adhesion, and prevent peeling or swelling of the future coating.

In this case, the primer is a two-component composition; in other systems, a ready-made deep penetration primer is often used.

The required amount of component "B" is added to component "A", and thorough mixing is carried out, using both the forward and reverse direction of rotation of the drill. The optimal speed is 500 rpm.

After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, an exposure of 2-3 minutes is made. to release air bubbles, and you can get to work.

The soil is poured over the surface with a snake and evenly distributed with a synthetic winterizer roller.

If areas with increased absorbency are detected, they are immediately primed again. Should be uniform and even. glossy surface. The primary layer of soil will require polymerization from 18 hours to a day.

If required, at this stage, you can carry out termination small bumps, mixing for this epoxy putty or even a small amount of the base composition of the self-leveling floor with 1-3 parts quartz sand.
After the primary layer, a second one is applied - a tread layer of soil, which is immediately sprinkled with a small amount of sand.

A day later, preferably no more, they move on to the next stage.

Create a base layer

The base, underlying, layer will become a reliable basis for the finishing, front surface. It will completely seal all the remaining pores, hide all the bumps and drops. It is also poured in two doses.

First, an abundant layer of epoxy primer is again applied to the surface, which is distributed with a spatula, so that no puddles form. Quartz sand is poured over the uncured soil in excess (about 1.5 kg per square meter).

After 15-18 hours, excess sand is removed with a stiff brush, the surface is dedusted.
Preparing the main composition for pouring the floor.

There are some subtleties in its preparation - first, component “A” is mixed, in the forward and reverse direction, and then, without stopping rotation, component “B” is poured.

A completely homogeneous composition should be achieved.

After mixing, again 2-3 minutes for anaeration - and immediately the mixture is put into operation. Leaving it in the container for more than 10 minutes is contraindicated.

The composition is poured on the floor in even strips and distributed to the required thickness using a doctor blade. In some hard-to-reach places you have to use a spatula.

The average consumption is about 400-500 ml per square meter.

If it is planned to decorate the floor with polymer inclusions (chips), then they are laid at this stage. Work is best done by wearing paint hoists on your feet and avoiding shuffling movements.

After leveling the spilled mixture, it is given 15-20 hours to solidify.

This layer will become the "face" of the future floor, so when pouring it, increased accuracy is required. In addition to the decorative function, this layer also bears the main mechanical load.

The composition is kneaded in the same way as described above, but the amount of the mixture per square meter will be greater - at least 1 liter per square meter at a surface temperature of about 20 degrees, or even 1.8 liters at 5 degrees.

With a smaller amount, the self-leveling effect may not be achieved. Preliminary leveling is also carried out using a doctor blade.

Time is limited - the prepared epoxy mixture must be worked out in 30 - 45 minutes.

10-15 minutes after uniform distribution composition on the surface, but no later than half an hour, is rolling with a spiked roller, which will free the layer from possible air bubbles.

Polymerization will last about a day, however, the floor should be subjected to mechanical stress no earlier than after 4-6 days. During this period, the surface must be open, but protected from dust, dirt, liquid.

A good addition would be the application protective coating polyurethane clear lacquer. It is applied twice in a thin layer with a roller or brush. Polymerization will take another day, and after 3 days the floor will be completely ready for full operation.

After complete solidification of all layers around the perimeter of the room, cut through expansion joints which are sealed with a special sealant.

How much does the material for a polymer self-leveling floor cost

For example, the prices for several popular systems of polymer self-leveling floors of various types:

System brand	Short description	Consumption per sq. m (with a thickness of 2.5 mm)	Packing	Price (rub/kg)
Elakor-ED		2.5 kg	comp. "A" - a bucket of 20 kg. Comp. "B" - canister 4 kg	225
Elakor-PU	polyurethane two-component composition	2.5-3 kg	comp. "A" - bucket 18 kgcomp. "B" - canister 6 kg	245
"Elakor-ED Transparent floor"	epoxy two-component self-leveling floor	2.1 (thickness up to 2mm)	comp. "A" - bucket 20 kgcomp. "B" - canister 10 kg	350
Evropoll "Pro Base EP"	transparent base two-component epoxy compound for the preparation of a highly filled quartz mixture	—	comp. "A" - bucket 20 kg.comp. "B" - canister 5 kg	200
Duracon TR System-205	Methyl methacrylate coating for medium and high loads, anti-slip effect	3.3 (with a layer of 6-8 mm with saturation with quartz sand)	universal compound - containers of 180 kg.	295
-//-	-//-	-//-	Hardener Duracon catalyst, 25 kg cans	645

Recently, new types of flooring have appeared on store shelves. An innovative discovery was the appearance of a polymer self-leveling floor, which appeared relatively recently on the market of building and finishing materials.

His path began with the use in industrial premises, where increased dynamic loads are used.

But also, they are often used where an aesthetic appearance and environmental cleanliness are required, this is the sector food production, sanatorium-medical institutions and so on. This type of flooring is poured, after hardening it becomes an absolutely flat surface and has no seams.

It looks like linoleum, so sometimes the self-leveling polymer floor is called " liquid linoleum". Due to its phenomenal properties, beauty and practicality, it has become widespread not only in industry, but also in general household consumption.

Types and classification of self-leveling floors

The most basic classification is by composition, and so they are divided into:

One of the advantages is that it is possible to carry out work in cold weather, not susceptible to low temperatures. There are also disadvantages, poor resistance to chemical active substances, and high cost.

Polyurethane floors- Shows resistance to everyday household damage. They are used in unusual cases when flexibility and elasticity with a combination of strength come first.

Due to the elasticity, it is able to withstand any dynamic impacts, without cracking and deformation. It is also resistant to chemical damage.

In industrial buildings, the first types of self-leveling floors are usually used. The following types of polymer self-leveling floor are widely used for finishing residential premises.

The following type of classification by layer thickness:

There is also a classification, depending on the properties:

Advantages and disadvantages of self-leveling floor

Like all Construction Materials, self-leveling floor has its advantages:

But, like all materials, it has its drawbacks:

Very high cost
Due to all its positive properties, it is very difficult to dismantle the self-leveling finishing polymer floor, it will require the use of specialized equipment.

Preparation for pouring a polymer self-leveling floor

As with any floor covering, surface preparation, tool preparation, preparation of the finished mixture is required.

We start with surface preparation. We remove garbage, vacuum. We carry out a visual inspection for the presence of defects, chips, cracks, height differences.

We eliminate defects, in the presence of minor defects we use putty, in the presence of rough irregularities we use a floor screed. Waiting for everything to dry.

In the process of mixing, an endothermic reaction occurs, you should be careful and accurate. We take a mixer or nozzle on a drill and mix the components, then pour ready mix to the prepared surface.

Polymer floor pouring technology

The filling process consists of three stages:

Stage - Preliminary or base layer.
Stage - Finishing layer.
Stage - Lacquer coating.

And so we start by pouring the preliminary layer. The pouring process is best done together, one prepares the polymer mixture, the second smoothes, the finished solution removes air.

In most cases, an epoxy polymer mixture is used as a subfloor, with the addition of quartz sand or granite sand. The pouring of the solution usually starts from the far corner, it is recommended to fill in stripes.

For a perfectly flat surface, it is possible to use beacons, which are previously set using a level. Ready solution poured onto the prepared surface, evenly distributed with a rule or a metal spatula.

After the aeration roller, air bubbles are removed, which are formed when the components are mixed. Rope casting is also possible. The thickness of this layer should not exceed 1-2 mm. Drying time is approximately one day.

After rough coating completely dry, you can start finishing pouring. It is important to thoroughly wash the instrument after each use to avoid mixing.

Decor elements can be used at your discretion. As elements, coins of different denominations, buttons different forms and sizes, small river pebbles, sea shells and much more.

It is also possible to use stencils, landscapes and drawings painted with paints. And recently the use of 3D films. The process of pouring the finishing layer is no different from the process of pouring the preliminary layer.

After the finish coat dries completely, a special varnish is applied.. That's all the floor is ready, after the varnish dries. Professionals warn that drafts and direct sunlight do not favorably affect the drying process of the flooded floor.

And it is also required to clearly maintain the time between filling each layer. When pouring the floor with your own hands, we recommend that you watch video tutorials on how to properly install a polymer self-leveling floor.

Prices for polymer self-leveling floors

The price will depend on the manufacturer, brand, region and place of purchase.

Now we will consider the average cost of one kilogram of the mixture:

Polyurethane mixture - 230-260 rubles.
Epoxy mixture - 250-280 rubles.
Methyl methacrylate mixture - 340-380 rubles.
Cement-based mixture - 310-340 rubles.

It is important to know that the price per square meter of a polymer self-leveling floor consists of the price of a primer, a preliminary layer, a finishing layer, and if required, the price decorative elements and varnish. And the thickness of the layer also affects the cost.

The average price per 1 sq.m. and a layer thickness of 1-2 mm. material is:

Depending on the complexity, the number of decorating elements, the amount of work, the use of 3d films - and the price of the work varies per 1 sq.m.

Currently, construction is an important branch of the national economy. A special place in this section is the work on the manufacture of the floor in a particular room. Today, for the construction of the floor, you can use a wide variety of materials: wooden boards, plywood, linoleum, concrete pavement. In recent years, the so-called liquid polymer floor is gaining more and more popularity. It is also called bulk. Unlike conventional materials it has a number of advantages.

Polymer floors are divided into such types as: epoxy, polyurethane, methyl ethacrylate.

Polymer self-leveling floors are synthetic coating. Most often it is used in large retail premises, garages, exhibition halls, etc. Very often, polymer self-leveling floors are used in production due to their strength and durability. It is easy to make such floors with your own hands. In addition, there are 3D floors. They differ from the previous coating in the presence of complex drawings, which not everyone can do with their own hands. Let us consider in more detail how to pour polymer floors, the main stages of work, the positive and negative sides of this coating.

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Advantages and disadvantages of self-leveling floor

Polymer self-leveling floors have a number of positive qualities which is why they are in high demand.
Firstly, polymer floors come in different types (epoxy, polyurethane, methyl ethacrylate), depending on this, they can withstand high temperatures, do not leak water.

Second, despite the use polymer base, they are hygienic, easy to process and wash. Thirdly, this coating is resistant to various chemical agents.
Fourthly, polymer floors can be glossy or matte, so you can choose the desired design in accordance with the interior of the room. Fifthly, polymer floors contain a liquid component that quickly hardens. This contributes to better adhesion of the liquid to any surface, be it wood or concrete. Unlike a wooden and concrete base, this coating is done quickly and without much effort.

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Preparatory work

The complexity of the construction of self-leveling floors is that they require a perfectly flat surface. In the event that the base is represented by tiles or tiles, you will have to create some roughness. This can be done with a skin or sandpaper. Often there are problems when leveling the base if it is made of wooden planks. To do this, first close up all the bumps. The unevenness of the base of the floor can be well manifested when disassembling the log and removing the old coating.

The permissible difference in the height of the self-leveling floor surface is 4 mm. If possible, then you can make a screed of concrete. If it is not done, then irregularities and defects are removed using grinder or grindstone. To determine the evenness of the coating, it is recommended to use a water or building level. It is also advisable to carry out surface priming. The primer prevents the penetration of moisture and increases the adhesion of the self-leveling floor to the base. After the base is made, along the perimeter of the room it is necessary to nail the slats like a plinth. This is necessary so that the liquid polymer mixture does not spread into the voids between the floor and the wall. The slats are fixed with self-tapping screws, nails (if the wall is wooden) or dowels (if the wall is concrete).

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Preparation of the mixture and pouring technology

In order to make polymer floors with your own hands, you will need to prepare a working solution. You can buy a polymer mixture at any hardware store. After that, it must be diluted in water. This is one of the most important stages of the whole work, since the result of pouring largely depends on the quality of the solution. It is necessary to prepare the mixture only according to the instructions attached to the product. The mixing process is of great importance. This should be done slowly so that not a single lump remains. In addition, there should be no air bubbles in the solution.

Mixing can be done using a special mixer or improvised means. The next stage of the repair is pouring the solution. Liquid polymer it is necessary to apply to the surface from the section of the room farthest from the doors and gradually move towards the exit. The optimal floor layer should be about 4 mm. If you make it thinner, then it will not have high strength and reliability. This option is suitable as an addition to the main coating. It is best to fill the mixture with two people with an assistant. One person holds a container with a polymer liquid and gradually applies it to the floor, while the second person levels the surface. For alignment, you can use a wooden lath.

After the polymer self-leveling floor dries, you can start applying varnish. Varnish is needed to give the coating a certain sheen. In addition, the varnish increases the wear resistance of the material and makes it smoother. The drying time of the polymer mixture is on average about half an hour. But it is best to read the instructions on the package. The varnish is applied only on a hard surface. It is recommended to paint the floor in two or even three layers. It is not possible to walk on a new self-leveling floor immediately, otherwise traces may remain on it.