The house is a budget option. What is cheaper to build a house from

Everyone who wants to settle outside the city or in a small village arrives. In megalopolises it is stuffy, morally and physically, from the inhaled air and extraneous noise. I would like, if not to move out altogether, then to acquire a recreation area in nature. As you know, we do not suffer from a surplus of funds, so the problem arises: how to build a house inexpensively? In a private house, you will have to bother with the housework more and its maintenance will cost a little more than paying for a communal apartment for a city apartment of equal area, but a healthy lifestyle is worth it. And if you start at least a small backyard garden with a greenhouse, then, without overstraining, individual housing can be made generally profitable.

Is it cheap fast?

A private residential building of a budget price segment may well be comfortable, warm, reliable. And if the arms grow as they should and there is a desire to apply them correctly, then they will look solid, see fig. However, building a house cheaply is not all. There are almost 7.5 billion people on Earth and everything is coming. Our "ball" is not rubber, so it would be simply naive to expect that taxes on real estate and rent for land will somehow decrease there over time.

Consequently, the cheapest house is not necessarily the one that will be cheaper to build: when choosing material for a house (see below), a project, etc., you need to keep in mind further operating costs. Especially if the construction is carried out on credit, you need to start repaying it immediately. That is, the period from the start of construction to the readiness of the house for moving in is of great importance: while the construction is underway, there will be no time to find additional income, but you have to pay for the old housing and take out and put the next loan payment.

The conclusion is obvious: Having conceived to build, first of all, we estimate - and how much will we eat until the house is completely ready? This moment may turn out to be significant even for a fairly experienced builder, if you need to decide whether to build with your own hands or to entrust some of the construction stages to a bona fide contractor with well-established production and well-equipped technically. Savings from a reasonable distribution of cash and / or available funds according to the stages of home readiness (see below) for contract and self-made work can significantly exceed all other possible articles of it and will certainly greatly facilitate and simplify the choice of the main structural material of the house and its foundation - the foundation.

What is a budget house?

We will consider a house as a budget one, the construction of which is up to full readiness (see below), but without heating, cooking and plumbing fixtures, it will cost 10,000 rubles. for 1 sq. m of total area or less. A house of 100 common squares in this case will cost up to 1 million rubles. or approx. $ 18,000 at today's rate (2019). Under certain local conditions, it is possible to reduce the cost of construction to 5500-6000 rubles. per square; if you build completely with your own hands, slowly only for your own; if there is an inexpensive former housing, then it is possible to keep within 4500 rubles. per square, but cheaper is already a fiction, who would not promise anything. Good contractors for 3000 rubles. you can still find per square, but - on a turnkey basis, and bringing the house to full readiness will require at least the same amount.

Note: the given figures, as well as further in this article, are averages for the Russian Federation. Here it is appropriate to recall an old anecdote, which is now altered in its own way in almost all countries: a nobleman eats meat, a peasant only has enough for bread. On average, they eat meat pie for two. So, finally, check the prices on your own - it is impossible to give a full review of them in one publication, and the next day after its publication, the situation on the market may change. But here we give mainly information on how to build a house cheaply and quickly with technical and organizational measures, without sacrificing its quality.

About the number of storeys

The problem of taxes and land rent can be largely solved, firstly, by building a house with 2 floors, which will save on land payments. Some prejudice against the upper floors in individual houses has remained from the Soviet era, when private construction of more than 1.5 floors was strictly prohibited. It makes no sense to build a budget 3-storey building: the staircase will have to give too much usable space, and strengthen the walls of the 1st floor, which will greatly complicate, lengthen and increase the cost of the work. And in a 2-storey building, a staircase to the 2nd, bedroom, floor can lead directly from the living room or hallway / hall.

Secondly, real estate tax can also be significantly reduced on a completely legal basis by completing a half-story bedroom in the form of a Siberian attic. A diagram of the pediment of a frame residential building with a Siberian attic is given in Fig. on right. Not everyone likes houses with Siberian mansards because of the faceted roof, but in fact they are economical and convenient, and in budget construction there is no time for sophisticated architectural solutions. For a budget frame house (see below), the Siberian attic is practically the only way to increase its actual number of storeys.

Note: for a house made of foam or gas blocks, there is another non-trivial opportunity to increase its living space without a significant increase in taxation and land lease, see below. This factor can be decisive in regions where individual construction of 2 or more floors is prohibited due to natural conditions, for example. in seismically dangerous places or on permafrost.

Home readiness stages

The stage (stage) of the readiness of a residential building for settlement means a completely completed cycle / complex of construction work, after which the construction can wait for the start of the next stage for a certain or indefinitely long time. A technological break between stages is most often necessary for the shrinkage of the structures of the previous cycle, but sometimes (see below) it is unacceptable or possible only in the warm dry season. Work at the next stage of construction can be carried out both independently and under a contract from the same or another contractor, regardless of how the previous one was performed. The stages of bringing the budget residential building to readiness are as follows:

Zero, or zero cycle - the foundation was laid, gained at least 75% strength and gave the design draft. This is the most responsible, difficult and time-consuming stage, at which it is most often advisable to hire an experienced team on a contract basis. Technical break before the next. stage is necessary in any case.
Box - there are walls with openings for windows and doors, covered with a roof. Bearing partitions were also erected inside. Communications have been brought up, but so far drowned out. Mandatory maintenance break is required only for heavy (brick, stone, concrete) buildings, for their own shrinkage. In budget construction, the box stage as such is most often not distinguished, and for a house it is generally excluded from SIP panels.
Turnkey - doors and windows are in place, the box is stable. The house can hibernate up to several times. Perhaps the floors are also laid, but the communications are not divorced, there is no interior decoration and insulation. A favorite bait of overly clever contractors "for cheapness", so at this stage you need to carefully calculate how much it will take to eat up the rest of the work, as well as their cost, and compare it with the cost of bringing the house to full readiness by the hired workers.
Full - communications are divorced, stationary household appliances are in place and ready for use. The interior decoration has been done, but the exterior and insulation may not be provided for by the terms of the contract (see below). The kitchen, bathroom and boiler room / furnace are fully equipped, you can cook, wash, start the boiler and heat. All that remains is to bring in and arrange furniture, lay carpets, hang curtains, paintings, arrange trinkets, etc., so that you can live in the house - not grieve.

About contractors

A bona fide contractor, firstly, must be properly registered legally - as an individual entrepreneur, LLC, etc. accordingly, must immediately, without a reminder, present to the customer a package of documents confirming state registration. Special licenses for ordinary construction work are not required, professional certificates ("crusts"; nowadays - cards) of executing workers are enough.

Secondly, the customer must be offered a contract on paper. An offer (public standard) or individual, it does not matter, the main thing is that the rights and obligations of the parties must be clearly spelled out there. Thirdly, the warranty period for this stage (stages) of work and the conditions for compliance with warranty obligations must also be indicated there.

Good budgetary contractors give a 2-5 year warranty. Less is impossible due to technical breaks. More in conscience, too, is impossible, tk. the local operating conditions of the building may change for the worse. They can be taken into account ("laid down" constructively) by using more expensive materials and technical solutions, but this will no longer be a budget construction.

About annexes

In popular sources and brochures of contractors, you can come across recommendations on your mind, accompanied by sketch (without reference to the place) projects: they say, we first build a 6x9 house very cheaply, and then, as we accumulate funds, add more rooms to it (the original layout allows), while children-grandchildren will not be left with a huge mansion. This approach is fundamentally wrong.

Anyone who is in the slightest degree familiar with construction knows that adding a residential building to an existing one is a difficult and not always feasible technical task. First, the old foundation has already completely settled, and the new one will give the calculated shrinkage only under the weight of the structure being carried. That is, the extension cannot be immediately attached tightly to the main structure, you need to wait to see if the cracks will go and seal them up. It is difficult to find publicly available information about extensions to existing buildings in common runet; you can look for a small but explanatory book by dr. tech. sciences Ferenc Segi "How to avoid mistakes in the construction of an individual house." There was a Russian translation, M., Stroyizdat, 1987... Curiously - this little book then cost as much as 90 kopecks. Soviet.

Third, even if the house is rubber on a gimbal, it is unacceptable to allow it to sway and sway to the beat of seasonal ground movements from year to year. A kind of virtual (invisible) warm "pit" is formed under the house, erected on a correctly chosen and laid foundation, in which it is never below zero; the blind area around the house expands it to the sides. An extension to a house can disrupt the established thermal balance in the bearing soil, which is fraught with an accident rate of the main building. Therefore, bona fide contractors expose one of the conditions of the guarantee - no extensions that have not been agreed with them.

Garage in the house, or the role of planning

One of the ways to get an inexpensive home for permanent residence in relation to available living space is to build a home on a common foundation with a garage. Perhaps this is only for houses made of non-combustible materials; regarding the budget - foam and gas-block, otherwise the firefighters will not allow the project to be approved or to legitimize the squatter.

However, it makes little sense to simply attach a garage to the house, as on the left in the figure, it will give almost nothing to save costs for construction and further maintenance of the house. It is necessary to enter a garage of a typical size 4X7 m inside into the constructive scheme of the house, taking into account the following:

there is no need to put the garage on the basement, because then you will have to fence an access ramp to it;
the ceiling height in the garage is permissible 2.5 and even 2.2 m, it is simply impossible to lower it;
it is highly desirable to have an entrance to the garage from the house, but then it is permissible only from the hallway / hallway and should be with a vapor-tight fire-resistant door.

In this case, the garage floor slab will serve as the floor of the one and a half floor, less taxed, but quite spacious. An example of this kind of layout is shown on the right in fig. The area utilization factor is not so hot there, but there are a lot of amenities:

The one-and-a-half superstructure is not an extension; no special measures are required for its construction on an existing well-established building, i.e. you can build on the garage later, as the family grows.
The staircase to the one and a half floor turns out to be low and fits into the existing hall without any special difficulties.
Heating the garage is also arranged without problems, and economically, because it is slightly warmed up from the hall and kitchen.
In the lobby of the 1.5th floor, the pressure tank of the autonomous water supply system is perfectly located under the ceiling; you can also move the dressing room there, increasing the area of the living room and bathroom.
Since the bedroom floor is heated to some extent, in turn, from the garage, it can be done with a French window in a rather harsh climate.
One basement wall is shared with the garage. Communications are brought, of course, to the basement. That is, a sewer riser can go from the bedroom to the basement, to which a washbasin, a shower and even a jacuzzi are connected upstairs.
Access to the basement is also internal, through a hatch in the lobby or from the garage.

Agree, a house for 4-5 people with a separate dressing room, a living room of more than 25 squares and a French bedroom, in which there is also a hydromassage - this is really really cool. And the total area on the land is much less than 180 sq. m, from which the increased taxation begins. Even if in your state the base area norm is 150-160 sq. m, the tax authorities will still have to register the house as a budget house.

Foundation and soil

When choosing the base of a house or checking the option offered by the contractor, you need to comply with the geology and soil mechanics of the construction site. The factors of soil mobility that most of all affect the cost of the foundation of a house are as follows:

Load bearing capacity.
The degree of heaving (the amount of frost heaving).
Standard frost penetration depth (NDF).
The highest groundwater table.

Carrying capacity and heaving

Massive low-cost development is possible on non-heaving and slightly heaving soil with a bearing capacity of up to 0.7 kg / sq. cm, but only based on the results of careful preliminary surveys over the entire building area with a decent margin around the edges. An experienced contractor can build a separate reliable house on medium-heaped soil with a bearing capacity of 1.1-1.3 kg / sq. m. Self-construction can be practiced on the ground up to medium heaving with a normal bearing capacity of 1.7 kg / sq. cm or higher. On strongly and excessively heaving soils, budgetary development is impossible with rare exceptions (see below).

Note: the bearing capacity of the soil directly at the building site can be determined on your own without complex instruments, but how - this is already a special article.

NGP and groundwater

Some potentially low-cost houses cannot be erected on an unburied foundation (see below). The heel (sole) of the foundation should be deepened below the LHP by at least 0.6 m on medium heaving soils and not less than 0.3 m on slightly heaving and non-heaving soils. The base of the foundation should not reach the level of standing groundwater by 0.5 m or more. Typical extreme cases for budget building: dry sandy loam (slightly heaving), NGP 1.5 m, water standing 2.5 m; deepening of the foundation 1.8-1.9 m. Or - moderately moistened podzol (medium-porous), oil-and-gas mixture 1.2 m, standing water 3.5 m. Deepening of the foundation from 1.8 m.

What if there is a fire?

The question of what will be cheaper to build a house in a given place must be resolved without fail taking into account the fire hazard. Hoping for the best, preparing for the worst is a universal principle, and the harmfulness (or accommodatingness) of firefighters is in fifth or seventh place after their own safety. Regarding the possible harm from a fire, the properties of materials for budget construction are divided into a trace. way:

Fire safety (this is not the antipode of fire hazard) - how difficult it is for a given material to ignite and whether it is capable of burning outside the source of ignition. In fact, is it possible to extinguish a detected fire source in a timely manner with improvised means without significant damage to the structure of the building.
Fire resistance - how long a material is able to resist fire without losing its mechanical properties before the structure collapses and / or without emitting toxic gases. In fact, how much time do you have, if extinguishing on your own is impossible, to evacuate and take out the property.
Fire resistance - how much, after being on fire for at least 20 minutes, the material restores its properties. In fact - all of a sudden the box of the house is completely burnt out, is it possible to re-equip it for housing.

Materials (edit)

So it's time to choose material for a house in a budget price category. Unfortunately, houses made of bricks, profiled beams and chamber-dried rounded logs are excluded from the budget category. They have a lot of advantages and relatively few disadvantages, but it will be possible to move into a brick house no earlier than the 3rd year from the beginning of zero: a year for the shrinkage of an expensive buried foundation, a year for the shrinkage of the box, and only then can it be handed over on a turnkey basis, plus time for internal finishing. In addition, at current energy prices, a brick house needs expensive outdoor insulation.

Note: houses made of wood concrete (fiber-reinforced concrete), reeds, straw blocks, etc. are not considered, because their reliability has not yet been confirmed by time and there is no well-established construction industry for their construction.

Chamber profiled beams and logs impregnated with harmless antiseptics and fire retardants are expensive in themselves and require solid carpentry experience to build a residential building. The houses of them are considered prestigious; as a consequence, the cost of the work is high. Also, prefabricated panel houses do not fit into the budget category: they are erected very quickly, but their construction requires qualified personnel and a high degree of mechanization of work. Given these circumstances, the choice of widely available materials is rather limited. To compare the cost of a fully finished house per unit (100%), you can take a frame house made of non-glued beams and conventional air-dried boards. The result looks like a trace. way:

Country wooden frame house only from a board - 0.6-0.8
House on a steel thin-walled frame - 0.85-0.9.
Residential wooden frame house made of beams and boards - 1.00.
A log house from a conventional air-dried log - 1.4-1.8.
House of SIP panels - 1.9-2.00.
House of foam or gas blocks - 2.00-2.15.

Frameworks and lumber

General advantages and - low sensitivity to ground movements, they "play" with it. Therefore, it is possible to build such houses on an unburied columnar foundation, the simplest and cheapest. It is also possible to build a residential frame / timber budget house on strongly heaving soft soil, laying a TISE pile-strip foundation under it. A 2-storey frame house cannot be built without a detailed design, but in budget construction this problem is solved by the Siberian attic, see above.

A log house is good because in regions with a fairly mild winter it does not require additional insulation: a log 200 mm thick is equivalent to a brickwork of 600 mm. Internal cladding in both timber and frame houses is possible with plywood or non-combustible materials: chipboard, OSB. Outer cladding made of OSB (oriented strand board, OSB, Oriented Strand Board) will give the house additional rigidity in the wind and resistance to weather conditions. The plaster inside here and there is dry, with gypsum plasterboard (GKL) along the shreds (15-20) x40 mm; it is impossible to sheathe the gypsum board without lathing even completely flat walls.

The design of a timber frame house is well known (left in the figure). Without impregnation with biocides and fire retardants (which can be done independently), all the fire-fighting qualities of such houses are low, and the fire resistance is generally zero, they burn out completely. Fire safety and fire resistance can be increased to an acceptable level (10-15 minutes for evacuation) if the insulation is made with ecowool (cellulose insulation). It will cost approx. 25% more expensive than mineral wool, but when heated, ecowool emits a lot of water vapor, which retards the fire. In addition, ecowool does not allow wood to rot: it contains an antiseptic - borax. Wet ecowool does not collapse and retains 75% of its insulating qualities, while dried out completely restores them. Thermal insulation with ecowool is possible manually without experience; no fasteners or lathing are required. Waterproof and vapor barrier for ecowool need inexpensive simplified ones. The estimated service life of an all-wood frame or log house with mineral wool insulation and without outer cladding is 25-40 years, depending on the quality of the wood and local conditions; the same, with ecowool insulation - up to 70 years or more.

Inexpensive house for cottage frame construction with dimensions of example. up to 4x6 m, it is possible to build from boards alone with your own hands without experience, as well as air-drying logs. But if the total area of the house exceeds approx. 25 sq. m and / or the number of openings in it is more than 3-4, an experienced carpenter should build. In this case, the frame of the house is needed with the main load-bearing elements made of timber from 150x150 mm.

First, it is impossible to place openings of windows and doors in a house, any size of which exceeds 6 m. Computer programs are of little help here: you need to enter initial data into them and choose a calculation method based on your own experience. There is no computer construction program that would “do everything by itself” yet.

Second - in a residential frame / timber house there must be at least two load-bearing partitions. Their location can be taken from a typical project, but a beginner is unlikely to be able to correctly connect partitions to external walls; especially if the house is timber.

In a log house built without experience, the problem of caulking can also arise. Only a very experienced specialist is capable of rejecting when buying a beam that is highly susceptible to warping. If the seasonal dacha house splits, the trouble is not great, you can just plug the cracks. In a large residential building with split walls, it will be possible to survive 1-2 winters, having spent a lot on heating, and then it will quickly go to accidents due to weakening of the structure.

Houses on a steel thin-walled frame (on the right in the figure) may be somewhat cheaper than solid wood, but this is seemingly cheap. The main thing is that the fire resistance of houses on a steel thin-walled frame is zero: in a flame, the frame instantly (in less than 3 minutes) loses its strength, and the house collapses. In addition, it is very difficult to take into account the fatigue of elements of a complex thin-walled structure, and cases of sudden collapse of such houses for no apparent reason are not rare in the world. In general, the service life of 100-120 years declared by the manufacturers is not maintained, therefore, in a number of states, only non-residential small architectural forms are allowed to be built on a steel frame.

SIP

Structural Insulated Panel (SIP) is a pie of plywood or OSB with extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) or polyurethane foam in between. SIP made of OSB and polyurethane foam are suitable for housing construction; CIP in EPS filler in the fire emit a huge amount of poisonous gases. The main advantages of SIP houses, firstly, the speed and ease of construction, see the video:

Video: an example of building a house from self-supporting insulated wire

The fact that they can be built on an unburied foundation such as a Swedish or Finnish slab reduces even more the period of bringing the house from the self-supporting insulated wire to readiness for moving in. These foundations are cheap, the term for their "maturation" fits into the warm season, so a slab foundation for a house made of self-supporting insulated wire can be ordered / laid with a margin for future extensions or under an extensive veranda, see fig. on right. The exterior decoration of the house made of self-supporting insulated wire can be anything and it will look more than decent, see in the same place.

It is equally important that the self-supporting insulated wire is an excellent heat insulator in itself and no additional insulation is required for the house. The disadvantages of SIP houses include the need for a ventilation system, because the walls don't breathe. In Russian conditions, it is significant that SIP houses are unsuitable for stove heating, the panel filler heats up and gradually exudes toxic substances. The manufacturers also declare the service life of the self-supporting insulated wire to be small, 40-70 years. Finally, the SIP box cannot be left to winter, the house must be built at least on a turnkey basis during the warm season.

Foam blocks and gas blocks

The box can be very inexpensive, doing construction on weekends, folded from spring to the end of summer on glue, without being a bricklayer at all; she can hibernate once under a roof and wrapped in plastic. A technical break for shrinking the box is not needed.

The main enemies of the foam / gas-block house, firstly, moisture. There are plenty of pores for condensation in its walls, and it is difficult and long to dry a damp house made of foam / gas blocks. Therefore, in this case, a complete (and not cheap) vapor barrier is needed both outside and inside (there are household and breathing vapors) and good external thermal insulation, "preventing" the dew point from entering the walls. As a result, the statement that a house made of foam / gas blocks breathes is, to put it mildly, just talk. Who lived in such a house is unlikely to argue.

In fact, the only way to 100% prevent a house made of foam / gas blocks from dampness in any conditions is a ventilated facade. Which works great, but does not apply to budget construction. Comfortable and even elite houses from foam / gas blocks can be built and built, but in warm regions and not in the budget segment.

The second enemy of the foam / aerated house is the natural wear and tear of concrete. Let's say it only crumbles 0.01 mm per year. In this case, 300-400 years will pass before the reinforcement is exposed in the concrete monolith, which can be ignored in the calculations of conventional structures. But the partitions between the pores of the foam / gas blocks are of the order of 1 mm, and their safety margin of 100% will be exhausted in 20-25 years, because destruction comes from 2 sides. Therefore, the estimated service life of a house made of foam blocks or gas blocks up to 60-100 years is clearly exaggerated. Confirmation of this is the massive (and unsuccessful) sale of aerated concrete villas in Spain, not even at cost minus depreciation, but for how much they will take. When they were building, you forgot about the micro wear of blocks, and now what to do with all this?

Summing up

So, in accordance with all the attendant circumstances, we have few options for a really budgetary construction:

The main one is a solid wood frame house, insulated with ecowool.

For me, it was a matter of principle to choose exactly the option when, with the least labor and material costs, you can quickly and efficiently build a full-fledged residential building for a family.

Having studied several sources and many options, I decided to stay on the option, and took as a basis the typical project "Canadian - 1".

I really liked this compact two-storey house of 7x7.5 m, and after making the necessary calculations, I decided that such a project was quite within my power and resources.

In the presence of a sufficient number of living rooms and utility rooms, it looks relatively small, and the cost of construction is several times less than when building a brick house of the same dimensions.

A typical project involves the consumption of materials in the following sizes:

Edged boards 5x15 cm - 25m3;

Roofing board 2.5x15 cm - 3m3;

Expanded polystyrene for insulation - 25m3;

Rolled isolon for insulation - 5 rolls;

Polyurethane foam - 30 fl;

OSB - 200 sheets;

Roof waterproofer - 3 rolls;

Soft roof - area 70 m2;

cement, tar, solvent, antiseptic, anchor bolts.

According to the project, on the ground floor there is a living room with a kitchen and a large dining room, a bathroom and a small hall with a vestibule from the front door. The second floor consists of three living rooms, a small common hall and a fairly spacious bathroom. The project was also attracted by the fact that the garage has a common wall with the house, which saves materials and additional thermal insulation.

I chose a project, prepared the necessary materials for the first stage of work and began construction.

Before you build a house with your own hands, we put the foundation

A properly set foundation is a guarantee of how long the house will last, and how comfortable it will be to live in it. Since my site is on the bank of a river and the groundwater is high, in order to avoid dampness, I did not make a basement and decided to make a foundation according to TISE on concrete piles.

My task was to build a house with my own hands cheaply, and therefore the option on the pillars also came up to me because of its low cost.

For the piles, I used second-hand asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 250 mm., 2.5 m long. The pipes were deepened into the ground by one and a half meters, so that a column 1 meter high would emerge above the ground. He reinforced them with fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 16 mm, poured concrete mortar and reinforced anchor bolts No. 22 at the top of each column.

In a month, I put up 24 pillars with my own hands - the basis for the future home. The concrete in each column hardened for two weeks. This time was spent on the purchase and delivery of materials for strapping the foundation.

As soon as the concrete finally grabbed, I started strapping - I first chose the grooves for better strapping from the ends of the timber with a section of 15 cm, and deepened the sockets for fastening the anchor bolts at the joints.

According to my calculations, it took me a little more than 30,000 rubles to build one - the cost of the material.

In order to fix the frame as reliably as possible when assembling the strapping, I put a wide washer under each nut - this way I tightened the nuts all the way without the risk of unnecessarily damaging the bars. In the course of work, he simultaneously processed the entire structure with tar antiseptic and made waterproofing with construction tar.

In this form, the foundation easily survived the winter, and I was convinced that I made the right choice.

To build a wooden house with our own hands, we begin to erect the frame of the first floor and make its strapping

You can see from my step-by-step photos how to build a house with your own hands, without using heavy equipment, additional labor and unnecessary funds.

With the onset of the first fine spring days, I took up the installation of the walls of the first floor. The principle of erecting a frame dwelling is that the finished frame parts are installed in their proper place and fixed there.

I assembled the structural elements piece by piece on a flat area, and then lifted them to the foundation and fastened them one by one to the base and to each other. In addition, I assembled technical openings for windows and doors separately and also raised them to the walls for fastening.

Since the structures are relatively small, I practically did this work alone, I only resorted to the help of my wife to hold the structure while I was doing the fastenings.

Sheets of roofing material must be laid between the foundation and parts of the structure.

In a month, I managed to put three walls on the first floor.

When installing the structures, I adhered to the fact that the racks of the frames were at a distance of 60 cm from each other, since the standard width of the OSB sheet is 120 cm.

I adhered to the same principle when installing floor transfers.

It took me two more days off to bring out all the walls of the first floor - I really wanted to quickly build a house with my own hands.

Of course, thinking about how to build a beautiful house with my own hands, I studied a lot of reference material, including the book “Individual house“ platform ”- it inspired me to be creative!

Taking the "Canadian" project as a basis, during construction I made a frame in accordance with the provided assembly technology. And although I changed something in the course of the work at my own discretion, I did not change the basis of the project in order to avoid incorrect distribution of the load on the supporting structural elements.

As a result, I got such a frame of the first floor:

Simultaneously with raising the walls of the first floor, I began to assemble the frame of the future interfloor staircase.

The next step in solving the problem of how to build a frame house with your own hands is the process of strapping the first floor.

To do this, lay an isolon folded in two layers on all the upper edges of the structure and then lay a board 5 cm thick around the entire perimeter.

Our ceiling joists are also floor translations for the second floor. Therefore, we lay them apart from each other with an interval of 60 cm, fastening to the harness.

Good weather works well, and the results are obvious.

Now I know for sure that anyone can build a wooden house with their own hands. This is a job, the main thing in which is to comply with all the required standards and do everything with the utmost care - only then can you build a house correctly with your own hands.

For those who are interested in this issue, my step-by-step photos will help you build a frame house with your own hands.

In this photo of mine, you can see that the frame of the first floor and the floors are fully completed. This is such a beautiful "platform" I ended up with.

The work does not always go fast, and on the next weekend I was able to do little - the intense heat prevented. But the staircase, which I did install, served as an additional anchorage and added rigidity to the overall structure of the first floor.

A lot has been done in a relatively short period of time, considering that I worked practically alone.

By the way, since according to the project there should be a two-meter-wide balcony-terrace over the southern side of the house, I set the ceiling joists above this part of the first floor of the required length so that they protrude 2 meters beyond the boundary of the wall structure.

Wooden parts in the right places were additionally fastened together with metal corners. To screw in the screws, I used an electric drill with a special mount for self-tapping screws.

As a result, the translations of interfloor floors look like this:

Of course, it is difficult to calculate all the construction costs in advance - there are a lot of factors that affect the change in the final cost of the project. Moreover, you still need to solve the problem of how to build a beautiful house with your own hands, and not just put a wooden box.

When building the foundation, frame of the first floor and floors, I spent about 80,000 rubles on materials.

The approximate amount that I plan to meet in order to build a house out of wood with my own hands is 500 thousand rubles.

The next stage in completing the task of how to build a frame house with your own hands - we begin to build the second floor, and sheathe the structure with OSB sheets

It is very hard to work in hot weather, especially at altitude. Therefore, construction is progressing slowly. I assemble the wall frame on the ground, then lift it up and put it in place. With careful work during the assembly of structures, their docking at the place of fasteners does not present any difficulties.

The photo shows how the first wall of the second floor was installed:

On hot days it was impossible to work more than three to four hours, so in the very middle of summer work slowed down a little. But as soon as the intense heat subsided, work continued at the same pace. Simultaneously with the side walls of the second floor, I brought out the end walls "under the roof".

It was already difficult to work here alone in order to build a house out of wood with your own hands, so he invited two assistants, and the heavy facade structures were lifted with a rope and inclined guides.

Together with the installation of facade structures, we made a screed for the ridge and starting rafters.

Having finished assembling the wooden structures of the walls and the ridge, I proceeded to paneling the walls - it went much more fun. To begin with, I paneled the corners of the walls.

OSB tried to do the work on sheathing with sheets in a few days - he did not want to risk it and decided to protect the inside of the structures from the threat of getting wet during the rains. You can see from my photos how I managed to build a house with my own hands almost alone.

How to build a roof of a house with your own hands?

This was the very question I faced as soon as I finished building the walls.

Before that, I did almost all the main work myself, occasionally resorting to outside help when it was necessary to support part of the structure or raise heavy facade parts to the second floor.

And now, in order to solve the question of how to build a roof of a house with our own hands, when it came to the roof lathing, I had to call another assistant, since he is not very successful in working on the rafters alone. Together, the work went much more fun.

Just like the ceilings on the first floor, I put a 5 cm thick board onto the rafters, and installed the rafters also at intervals of 60 cm, so that then lay the OSB sheet on a base of three boards.

On top of the rafters, my assistant and I made the installation of a vapor barrier, using 3 rolls of a hydrotechnical membrane for the roof.

OSB sheets were laid on top of the vapor barrier material. They were lifted to the roof in the same way as the facade frames.

One side of the roof was already covered with OSB. There are small areas and one more slope. Since autumn is approaching and the rains are frequent, I dropped all other things and came to grips with the roof - to protect the frame from excessive wetting. The work is hard, but perseverance wins everything, and the assistant is very helpful.

At this stage, it took me to build 7 cubes of a 150x50 board; almost two - 200x50; and 65 sheets of OSB - for the outer cladding, without floor and partitions.

All the sawn timber has practically gone into business, only the smallest cuttings - no more than 20 cm, I put for further use as fuel - on a fire or in a smokehouse. If you use the material sparingly and carefully, then you can build a house relatively cheaply with your own hands.

But since this season I am physically unable to sheathe the house with siding, so that heavy and frequent rains do not spoil the material, I decided to process the slabs with tar diluted in a solvent.

The house has temporarily acquired a gloomy black appearance, but now it is reliably protected from moisture and destruction.

How to build a house made of wood with your own hands: insulation and sound insulation

When I finished the exterior work, during the rainy weather I did a little work on the interior as well - I insulated and at the same time made soundproofing of the floors with foam plates.

The cracks between the joints and the walls are propenylated with polyurethane foam using a pistol. From the bottom I hemmed OSB sheets with wood screws to the floor slabs of the first floor, having previously supported them with spacers. This is very important in order to properly build a house with your own hands - in this way, I not only protected the internal structures from a strong temperature drop, but also protected the foam plastic from destruction by mice, which are very fond of settling in it.

The floor inside the room was covered separately in rooms, so as not to damage the foam in the ceilings.

On top of the log on the floor he laid an isolon and attached it with a construction stapler, and on top - sheets of OSB, which he laid on the floor in a checkerboard pattern. This is important because the floors will squeak heavily when stacking sheets that are joined at the four corners.

Gradually, the interior of the house is transformed and takes on an attractive appearance. Here you can already come to grips with internal work on wall insulation.

The work in the construction season was completed, I closed the window openings for the winter with OSB sheets and tightened it with a film, and mothballed the construction of the house until next spring.

So, I coped with the main work and my dream - to build a house out of wood with my own hands - is close to completion. In winter, weather permitting, I will take on the interior finishing work, and with the onset of spring, the work will boil with renewed vigor.

I hope I told in detail and proved with the help of a photo - you can build a frame house with your own hands!

Perhaps some of you, after reading my article, will be eager to build, and the photos given here will help him with this.

Few can afford to buy a ready-made house, and it is difficult to find a layout suitable for themselves. At the same time, there is an option construction personal real estate according to your own project. Modern industry provides a lot of unique materials that can contribute to the embodiment of any individual idea.

Yet most land owners are wondering, what is cheaper to build a house from and how not to lose in the quality and reliability of the whole structure. Let's try to figure out the choice of the optimal project and materials for the organization construction.

Project selection: main criteria

The main goal is to build a dwelling for which the average resident of the country will have enough funds. There is no point in planning a room with the possibility of subsequent expansion or extension - no need to waste years on a grueling series of reconstruction works. Significantly more rational initially build more modestly, but more efficiently, this is the only way to get the maximum pleasure from living in your personal "apartment".

Among low-rise housing projects of one- and two-storey buildings, sometimes with an attic floor, are very popular. The main criterion when choosing a technology construction is the price for 1 m². Consider which house is cheaper to build of the most common materials:

brick;
gas blocks;
timber.

Another popular method of erecting a building is wireframe... It should be noted that the material for the walls is not the main indicator that affects the total cost when construction.

When making an estimate taken into account:

the entire structure and thermal insulation must comply with all heat conservation standards;
the project must be efficient in terms of economy and labor costs;
the foundation structure must be optimally sized for the soil and the selected material.

When drawing up a rough estimate we will take such indicators as a fact:

the groundwater level is at the level of 2.5 m;
freezing depth - 1.5 m;
the soil is homogeneous-sandy loam with the presence of clay less than 10%.

Materials and structural elements will be calculated for a one-storey building with an attic residential floor.

Available options: what is cheaper to build a private house from

We will preliminarily clarify that the premises are intended for year-round living that especially important for calculating the price for 1 sq. meter for frame or paving construction... For all of the above materials from which the walls are made, pile-grillage foundation is ideal.

Brick walls

This option is recognized one of the most efficient in terms of the ratio of labor costs and financial investments... The construction is based on single-layer walls made of porous ceramic bricks, for example Porotherm 44 M-100... The calculation below demonstrates the answer to the question, which house is cheaper to build, and basic materials for the implementation of the process.

V cost of 1 square meter of wall includes:

brick - 20 pieces - 1790 rubles;
masonry mortar - 26 liters - 60 rubles;
plaster - 280 rubles

The total amount without taking into account the work - 2330 rbl... If you plan to use labor of hired workers, then about 1000 rubles should be added to the announced figure.

Aerated concrete block walls

Aerated concrete block can be a worthy alternative to traditional brick. Its manufacturing technology allows you to achieve amazing characteristics: low weight, low thermal conductivity and excellent sound insulation. A small load on the foundation makes it possible to reduce the cost of its arrangement.

By all indicators, aerated concrete block D500 400 mm thick exactly the material what makes it cheaper to build your house, which is confirmed by calculations:

blocks - 7 pieces - 1076 rubles;
masonry glue - 10.5 kg - 85 rubles;
reinforced concrete anchor, mesh - 220 rubles;
support belt under the Mauerlat made of reinforced concrete - 200 rubles;
columns of a monolithic frame made of reinforced concrete - 120 rubles;
plaster - 280 rubles

Price per 1 square meter walls from block D500 excluding work - about 2000 rubles... It should be borne in mind here that this option has a greater amount of labor, therefore when using hired labor, the price will increase by an amount in the range of 1300-1600 rubles.

Timber walls

This type of construction made of natural material in terms of heat-saving characteristics is practically a standard in comparison with the above walls. For example, a spruce wall with a thermal conductivity of 0.16 W / (m * C) and a thickness of 220 mm will match the parameters of a brick one only when the thickness of the masonry is at least 600 mm. Therefore, to meet the question of which house is cheaper to build, you need to consider a more economical option than brick. It is based on the use of 200 mm timber, 100 mm insulation and 20 mm plaster.

Exemplary cost of 1 square meter timber walls:

timber 200x200x6000 mm - 0.8 pcs. - 1416 rubles;
insulation (mineral wool and vapor barrier) - 0.1 cubic meters m - 400 rubles;
plaster - 70 rubles.

The total amount is about 1900 rbl., when using hired labor workers will have to pay another 1,700-1800 rubles.

This option is perfect for building a small cozy house in the mountains for family holidays and skiing or spending a romantic evening by the fireplace.

Frame construction

The essence of this technology lies in the use of a wooden frame, thermal insulation and cladding (softboard). To erect the frame, you need dry planed timber 150x50x6000 mm... Calculation of materials for construction 1 square meter of wall from the materials given:

timber - 0.05 cubic meters m - 375 rubles;
insulation, waterproofing, vapor barrier - 270 rubles;
softboard - 230 rubles.

Total amount - 875 rbl., for work, you should pay about 1500-1700 rubles.

Final review: which house is cheaper to build and why

Judging by the results of the calculations, wooden bar is an the most expensive material... The most affordable in terms of price and time erection should be recognized frame structure... However, it is impossible to make a hasty conclusion that a dwelling from a bar will cost more than all the above options.

Here you need to consider wall thickness - the larger it is, the wider the foundation should be... If we take into account that a pile-grillage foundation was chosen in absentia, then the width of the grillage for stone walls should be wider than for a timber structure. Based on this, it must be said that the total cost of all buildings will be in the same price range.

Where else can you save

At first before thinking what is cheaper to build a country house from for all-season living, you need to decide on dimensions... Naturally, the smaller the size of the room, the lower the costs will be.

Secondly, the total cost of construction is greatly influenced by foundation construction and its optimal calculation. Therefore, it is better to turn to professionals who can accurately determine the planned load and calculate the best option.

Thirdly – the simpler the cheaper... That is, complex roofs, bay windows, balconies - all this significantly increases the total amount for their implementation.

Before deciding on independent work on the construction, you should take into account all the nuances: the presence of certain experience, free time and, of course, the necessary tool. Perhaps, having soberly assessed your abilities, the best option would be to hire experienced craftsmen. In this case, the above calculations will also come in handy - they will help to more productively negotiate with any builders.

The dream of owning a home is often shattered by the financial capabilities of a person and his family, since many cannot afford the construction process and the cost of materials. But modern builders argue that everything is not so deplorable, and building your own housing is a very real task. Which house is cheaper to build, we will consider in the article.

What affects the cost of a cottage?

It is important to understand for what purpose you want to acquire a country house: for permanent year-round living or for staying in it only during the summer cottage period. The following factors completely depend on this:

space-planning solution;
type of construction of the house;
materials for the construction of building elements.

Which house is cheaper to build? If it is a country house, there is no need to arrange rooms in it for each family member, there are enough common areas with sleeping places, a kitchen, a bathroom. If you want to build a house for permanent year-round living, it requires heating systems and walls made of more reliable and functional material that will prevent the premises from freezing in the winter.

Selecting and creating a project

In order to build a house as cheaply as possible, without once again resorting to the services of professionals, it is important to correctly develop the future schemes of the object and think over how the work will be performed.

An affordable cottage should have a compact layout. The main principle is the maximum combination of the total and usable area. How can this be achieved?

1) Combine the hallway and the vestibule, make the room insulated. This is a great solution as they carry the same functional load.

Panel length - up to 3000 (3500) mm, depending on the manufacturer's capabilities.
Width - 1250-1500 mm.
Thickness - 168, 174 mm for external walls; 118 mm - for the partition; 174, 224 mm - for intermediate floors.
The weight of a standard plate 2500x1250x174 mm is about 50 kg. It turns out that a house with an area of 150 m 2 will weigh about 15 tons, which is 4-5 times lighter in comparison with stone materials.

The thickness of the panel is calculated taking into account all the temperature effects of the middle zone and the north; an additional thermal protection device is not required. For clarity, a 120mm slab is equivalent in heat preservation capacity to a 2.5m brick structure.

The disadvantages of the element include the inability to pass air and accumulate moisture with expanded polystyrene. However, when protected with OSB boards and external cladding, this practically does not happen.

The price of the issue

On the question of what is cheaper to build a house from, sip panels definitely win.

The average cost of 1 plate of 2500x1250x174 mm is about 3000 rubles. (on average - 1200-1300 rubles / m2). This is much more affordable than the most famous traditional material - wood, therefore, you can build a frame house cheaply.

Do not forget that the cost of erecting such a structure, in addition to the sip panels, includes the cost of the skeleton itself, which can be made of metal or wooden beams. It is obvious that the use of the latter is more profitable - natural raw materials are more accessible, it is easier to assemble them.

It is possible to build a cheap turnkey frame house in many companies that provide such a service. The price of a small two-storey cottage with a terrace is about 1,000,000 rubles. If you neglect the services of professionals, you can save up to 30-40% of this cost. True, the timing will not be the same ...

We build ourselves

Finally, the most important saving point is work without the participation of professionals. How to cheaply build a house with your own hands? Let's consider in order in general terms using the example of a frame structure.

The first step is to decide on the materials. We examined what you can build a cheap house from, so choose what you can afford. The most accessible type of structure is frame with vulture panels, therefore, determine the required number of slabs and the volume of beams for the frame according to the previously drawn up layouts and types of structures.

Foundation

The correct choice of the type and material of the base is the first stage of the algorithm on how to build a house cheaply. The price of a foundation is about 20-30% of the total cost of the whole house.

There is no need to arrange a massive base for a frame house: as already mentioned, the mass of the entire structure is about 15 tons (and in the case of an economy layout, even less: 8-10 tons). The best and cheapest option can be considered the installation of a columnar foundation. It can be mounted both independently and with the help of professionals. For concreting, it is enough to use a mortar of the M200-M250 brand.

Walls

To build a house as cheaply as possible, you will have to try and carry out the most capacious part of the work with your own hands - the installation of the frame.

For the lower strapping, beams with a section of 150x50 mm are taken and laid on the edge on the surface of the finished foundation, covered with roofing material. In the corners, they are connected with screws 100-120 mm, must be attached to the base itself using anchors or large self-tapping screws. Boards of the middle and outer straps are attached to the inner beams. You can use the punching method at the ends of the boards, then they are mounted end-to-end.

Then the surface of the resulting level is leveled, with a jigsaw, they make recesses for the floor joists and install them.

Bars 50x50 mm are fixed to the inner side of the lower strapping - floor boards will be attached to them.

Next, they put vertical posts: on the outside of the strapping, recesses are made and the timber is fastened with the same self-tapping screws. Along the perimeter, the step between them is from 1 to 1.2 meters - it is easier for an inexperienced assembler to combine all the components together and not make a mistake.

The fastening of the upper harness is similar to the lower one; installation is carried out using metal corners.

Cross-boards can often be seen between the uprights. They are mounted to strengthen the structure with large spans or complex solutions, for an economy house this is not so important, we will do without them. But the slopes at the top and at the base of the rack can be installed.

When the frame is ready, the panels themselves can be cladding.

Thus, it is possible to build a frame house cheaply. The prices for materials are not too high, and you will do the work on your own.

Finishing

To prevent a stingy person from paying twice, it is necessary to carefully isolate the external walls from environmental influences that can soak or destroy the structure of the sip panel. Plastering can be a budget option for finishing, but first, the surface must be pasted over with expanded polystyrene. The price of 1 m 2 of such a cladding is about 700-900 rubles.

It is also good to use vinyl or PVC siding. Perhaps this is the cheapest way - about 400 rubles. per square meter.

Decorating with decorative slabs or artificial stone will cost 900-1200 rubles / m 2. Such cladding of frame houses is rare: many believe that sip panels are not able to withstand this load, but this is a delusion.

The most expensive, but the most reliable and durable type of cladding is brick.

How to cheaply build a house with your own hands, we have considered. Everything is much simpler than it seemed.

To build or not to build?

We found the cheapest way to build your own cottage. There is nothing complicated in this process, the main thing is to start. Then you can build a frame house cheaply in a relatively short time. Prices per square meter of such housing can be different, on average 11,000 - 15,000 rubles, which is very cheap compared to other types of real estate.

Many people criticize this kind of houses, believing that the material is short-lived and impractical. We examined some of the properties of sip panels, they are more effective than other materials in some properties. Each material has weaknesses, and concrete can be criticized.

What material is cheaper to build a house from firsthand know the inhabitants of America. This type of housing is widespread on the continent in the northern regions, which clearly demonstrates its ability to withstand both temperature extremes and the effects of precipitation. Hence the name - "Canadian House".

Don't limit yourself in fulfilling your dreams of your home! There is always a solution.

Quite often, when designing a private house, the future owner thinks about the optimal choice of materials for its construction. What is it cheap to build a house from, so that it does not affect the quality, thermal insulation, visual appeal and durability of the building. The correct selection of materials will help not only build the desired house with your own hands, but also save a lot of money.

Construction stages

From the very beginning, you should determine the order that you need to adhere to when conducting construction with your own hands:

The very first construction of the foundation begins.
They begin to build walls after checking the readiness of the base.
The next in order will be communications (heating, water supply, sewerage, electrification, gas supply) and floor filling.
The next step will be laying the floor.
The last thing to do is to build a roof. This type of construction work is carried out in spring or autumn.

The level of costs is influenced by the project of the house, the foundation, materials for construction, materials of hydro and thermal insulation, installation of doors and windows

The following factors affect the level of costs:

effective planning of the building;
the depth of the foundation, materials for its construction and the equipment used in its construction;
use of inexpensive and high-quality wall materials;
heat-saving and waterproofing materials;
type of heating system;
installation of door and window blocks;
use of heat-saving and waterproofing agents.

Any construction should begin with drawing up a project. This approach makes it possible to avoid unnecessary expenses at the initial stage and optimize the project area. You should also decide what material the house will be built from.

Project creation

To reduce the cost of construction and materials, you can calculate the area of the house in such a way as to comfortably place all the necessary premises in the smallest possible area and decide which material will become the basis for the walls.

To save money, when building a house, make an extension - a veranda, it will protect the building and will serve as a wonderful place for summer holidays

To reduce heat loss, you can abandon pillars, bay windows, as well as all kinds of decorative partitions, as well as insulate basements, roofs and walls. The fewer walls a building has, the easier it is to heat it.

An excellent solution would be the construction of verandas and balconies, which will protect the building and serve as a resting place in the summer. It is also recommended to combine the hall with the dining room and the kitchen, in this case the total area will reduce heat loss, and minimal zoning will help create a cozy and original interior of a small room.

You can resist the cooling of the rooms from the roof side by arranging the attic.

It is recommended to use reliable tile materials or shingles as roofing materials. You should not save on roofing material, since the service life of the structure and the possibility of rational use of the attic floor directly depend on it. In addition, these materials look very decorative, improve the overall appearance of the structure and are very durable, which more than pays for their high cost.

Materials for walls

Since inexpensive construction is designed not only to create beautiful and comfortable housing, but also to do it in a short time with your own hands with reasonable savings, you should, if possible, use modern materials for interior decoration.

Scheme of the insulated frame house

For the construction of a strong frame, concrete, metal, brick or wood are used. One of the options for economical construction is the installation of a frame made of wood, which is then sheathed with soft insulation. This allows you to significantly lighten the structure and save on the construction of the foundation, as well as significantly reduce energy consumption for heating.

Another advantageous option for the construction of walls is the construction of aerated concrete. A house from such material is very quick and easy to build, while you can reduce the cost of mortar and labor. The material is lightweight and dimensional, and after finishing work it will take on any desired appearance, and will not differ in any way from brick structures.

Wood is a favorite raw material for construction, but it is hardly possible to save on it. The material itself is not so expensive, but since it is constantly subject to deformation, shrinkage, the appearance of cracks and gaps from the effects of weather conditions, and also needs careful insulation, its costs increase significantly.

Only the typesetting system is an economical material for a house made of wood. It is assembled in production conditions by specialists from solid structural elements.

In addition, such a house periodically requires sealing cracks as a result of building subsidence, as well as other expensive maintenance and control.

Foundation type

It is possible to reduce the cost of building a foundation by using highly efficient structures that can reduce the weight of the walls of the house and allow you to use a lightweight version of the foundation.

The ability to build a low-depth foundation is determined by the condition of the soil and the proximity of the groundwater.

A shallow foundation will significantly save money

Under what conditions can a low-buried foundation be built:

Such a foundation is used only on non-porous soils. Coarse sand is an ideal base for a low buried foundation.
Subject to the arrangement of the drainage system. This will prevent the rise of groundwater and protect the basement of the building from excess moisture.
It is also advisable to use waterproofing.

If the architect decides in favor of building a low buried foundation and decides in favor of using lightweight materials, then the savings will be quite significant.

In order to determine the appropriate type of foundation with your own hands, you should dig a hole about one meter deep. If there is no water in the pit, and the composition of the soil is represented by sand, clay and stones, then we can definitely say that it is possible to build an unburied foundation (60-80 cm). If water appears in the pit, then the bedding of the base should be at a depth of more than one meter.

Roofing material is used for waterproofing the foundation

The mortar should be thick enough and consist of cement, sand and gravel. Before pouring, formwork is constructed from boards. The width of the base should be 20 cm wider than the width of the walls. The use of reinforcing mesh is mandatory.

To ensure waterproofing, roofing material is laid in two layers in the foundation at ground level and then built to the required height.

After the completion of construction work, the foundation should be given several months to mature, and only after that the walls should be built.

Window systems

When choosing and installing window systems with your own hands, you should pay attention not only to the quality of the window block itself, but equally to the condition of the seals and fittings. They must provide a snug fit, high-quality heat and sound insulation.

Poor-quality double-glazed windows will contribute to the cooling of the room and the formation of drafts.

The number of windows required for optimal lighting is calculated by the formula: floor area divided by 8. For example, a room with an area of 40 meters requires 5 windows.

Heating system

The finished building needs installation of a gas or electric heating system. Measures to insulate the walls, floors and basement of the building significantly reduce heat loss, but they are not able to provide a comfortable temperature at home in the cold season.

The "warm floor" system is one of the most effective ways to heat a room. There are two types of such a floor: electric and water. This system is quite cheap and provides pleasant warmth and comfort in the room. The purchase and installation of such a system with your own hands will allow, without causing a significant increase in the cost of the project, to provide savings and organically fit into the interior of the house.

The distribution of warm air from the bottom up, comfortable for heating of this type, is the most correct in comparison with other types. Whereas heating from radiators can be minimized by drafts walking inside the room.

Knowing what is cheaper to build a house from, you can save a good amount and make your dream home project come true with your own hands. Tips for arranging an inexpensive home will help you build a comfortable, beautiful and ergonomic structure with your own hands, in which you can pay maximum attention to the interior decoration of the room with the remaining funds.