What kind of board to take on the subfloor. Do-it-yourself floorboard laying

The floor is one of the important elements of the building. There is a wide variety of finishing flooring, one of which is the floorboard, its sizes are made in various sizes.

It is necessary to select material depending on the functional purpose of the room and the patency of people.

The optimal thickness of the floorboard for private housing construction is from 35 to 45 mm, depending on the load on the floor. Let's consider how to choose the right size of the floorboard and the type of wood for a high-quality coating.

Batten

The regular board is wetter than the euro version

This is a wood material designed for rough and finish flooring. It is made from solid wood or by gluing several boards, visually looks like a milled board.

A regular and euroboard is produced, produced according to a special technology on European equipment.

Euro material has a lower moisture content, higher requirements are imposed on it: there should be no blue spots, rotten knots, core, holes.

The material produced according to European technology has a smooth surface, is well polished, and due to its advantages has a higher cost.

From array

Tongue and groove create a strong connection during installation

It joins together in a lock connection: on one side there is a comb, on the other - a groove. Such a connection gives the coating additional strength, even slightly dried out boards will have a beautiful appearance.

The optimal shape of the comb is a cone, it is easy to work with such a lock, even if a long material of 5-6 m is used.

If the spike is made in the shape of a rectangle, even with a slight curvature of the material, it is problematic to join it into a groove so that the boards lie close to each other.

Pieces look less aesthetically pleasing than whole boards

Sometimes it is necessary to cut boards to a length of less than 3 m in order to complete their connection. A floor covering assembled from pieces looks much worse than from solid parts.

Another type of locking connection is a material with a quarter: one board is cut ½ of the width from the top, the other from the bottom. A floor made of such material looks beautiful and is distinguished by the easiest installation.

More rarely, material with edges beveled at an angle of 45 degrees is used, although such a coating looks no worse than other types and is quite easy to install.

For a rough coating, an ordinary edged board is suitable, it is laid right next to each other and fastened with nails. In baths, it is used for finishing floors.

According to the standard, the presence of knots, bluish spots and resin is possible in a board made of solid wood. The euroboard has ventilation grooves, thanks to which the life of the wood is extended.

glued board

Glued board does not lose integrity for a long time

It is produced by gluing several boards under pressure, their fibers are positioned so that the material does not lose its geometry over a long service life.

Such material is guaranteed not to dry out, and the floor will remain flat. The manufacturing technology is labor-intensive, due to this, glued wood has a high cost.

Laying the joist under the finger jointed wood should be carried out in increments of 400 mm.

Terrace board

It has a wavy upper surface. It is most often used in rooms where the floor is often wet: baths, rooms with bathrooms and a swimming pool.

It is more difficult to slip on a relief wet surface than on a flat board.

The board is selected depending on whether it will be used for the rough or finish coating device. Before you go shopping, you need to decide which type of wood is most suitable for this type of work, and what dimensions the floorboard should have.

The service life of the coating will depend on the correct choice of the floorboard and its dimensions, because it accounts for the bulk of the load.

Board selection scheme:

Board thickness, mm	Distance between lags, mm	Cross-section of a bar for a log, mm	Room length, m
20	300	110x60	2
25	400	150x80	3
30	500	180x100	4
35	600	200x150	5
40	700	220x180	6
45	800
50	900

The length must be selected based on the fact that there is a minimum number of joints and waste in the form of scraps of material.

The thickness of the board for a country house should be at least 35 - 50mm

The optimal thickness of boards for flooring in a country house is 35-50 mm, a floor board with a thickness of 50 to 70 mm will be the best option for floors in gyms and rooms with high traffic.

The width of the floorboard should be taken with a margin, taking into account the fact that the floor is periodically polished to update the appearance.

Wide boards tend to lose their shape faster than narrower material.

board quality

Wood, depending on the quality requirements, is divided into the following classes:

№	Class	quality requirements
1	Extra	It has a smooth front surface without defects and knots.
2	BUT	It has a smooth surface without a core, fallen knots, cracks, chips. The content of knots located no more than 150 cm apart, small blue spots, 2 small surface cracks and the presence of resin is allowed.
3	AT	4 knots per 150 cm, 2 surface cracks, slight surface damage and resin are allowed.
4	With	Belongs to the lowest class, may contain 2 knots, surface cracks, contrasting stripes, blue, mechanical damage.

Wood species

Before you purchase material for flooring made of natural material, you need to study its properties and choose the material that is optimally suitable for the operating conditions.

Types of wood:

№	wood species	Characteristics
1	coniferous trees	The most in demand, as they have the best price-quality ratio. Pine and spruce contain a large amount of resins that protect the material from destruction under the influence of moisture and protect against the formation of mold, as they are a natural antiseptic. Fir requires treatment with antiseptic agents, as it contains an insufficient amount of resin in its composition. Conifers emit a pleasant smell into the air, which has a beneficial effect on the human respiratory system. This material has good vapor permeability, which allows you to maintain a normal level of humidity in the room.
2	Aspen and alder	They do not have a significant service life, they have insufficient strength. But they have a positive effect on human health, as they release useful tannins. Most often used for flooring in children's rooms, baths and private saunas. Not suitable for installation in rooms with high traffic and high loads.
3	Linden	Requires treatment with an antiseptic, as the wood has insufficient strength and is prone to the formation of fungi and decay. It is inexpensive, retains heat well in the room, emits a fragrant smell, has a beautiful structure.
4	Cedar	It has a very beautiful structure, has high strength and resistance to high humidity. In addition, the essential oils that make up wood have a beneficial effect on health and help maintain a healthy microclimate in the room. This type of wood has a high cost, but pays off due to its unique qualities.
5	Siberian larch	It has 12 shades, has high strength and durability. Larch is resistant to moisture, is not subject to rotting and mold. It emits aromas into the air that have antiseptic properties, thanks to which a healthy climate in the house is maintained.
6	Oak	It has long been famous for its durability and long service life. The material under the influence of moisture does not lose its properties, is not subject to putrefactive processes and the formation of fungal infections. It has high rates of heat saving and sound insulation. It has a high cost, but due to durability it pays off in the process of use.

Determine how many boards per 1 cube

When buying floorboards, take the material with a margin

All lumber is sold in cubes. To calculate the amount of material per 1 cubic meter, you need to calculate the volume of one board. To do this, you need to multiply the dimensions of the purchased lumber: width * thickness * length.

Let's say we use material 35 X 100 X 6000 mm. We translate the data into meters: 35 mm = 0.35 m, 100 mm = 0.1 m, 6000 mm = 6 m.

We find the volume of the board: 0.035 * 0.1 * 6 \u003d 0.021 cubic meters. m.

We determine how much material is in the cube: 1 cube: 0.021 cube \u003d 47.62 pcs.

Table of the amount of standard lumber in 1 cube:

The size	The volume of one board	Number of pieces in a cube with a length of 6 m
25 x 100	0,015	66,6
25 x 150	0,0225	44,4
25 x 200	0,03	33,3
40 x 100	0,024	41,6
40 x 150	0,036	27,7
40 x 200	0,048	20,8
50 x 50	0,015	66,6

Usually, when shipping, the number of boards in a cube is rounded down. It is recommended to purchase the material with a margin of 15-30%, since a certain amount of material may go to waste.

In addition, over time, it may be necessary to replace some board, and material from another batch may not be suitable.

Uncured material will begin to crack and warp.

Humidity for the floor board in the house should be no more than 12-14%. A board for use in the bath can be purchased with an average humidity level of 20-25%.

If well-dried lumber is used in a humid environment, it may swell in high humidity conditions, causing warping of the flooring.

You should not buy wet lumber in the hope that it will dry out before installation. Improper drying leads to deformation of the wood. Drying should be carried out in special chambers at a certain temperature and drying time.

The best quality will be the material collected in the autumn-winter period. The more resin and tannins in the composition, the less susceptible the material is to deformation. For information on how to determine the moisture content of wood, see this video:

You can check the moisture level yourself with a wood moisture meter.

What to look for when choosing

When buying, check the evenness of the edges of the board

Floor installation is an important step in construction, so the choice of material must be approached responsibly.

How to choose the right board:

1. First you need to check the correspondence of geometric parameters: the edges must be even and the thickness along the entire length must be the same.
2. On tongue-and-groove lumber, we pay attention to well-made elements of the interlock: the groove should be deeper than the ridge in height. If the ridge is larger than the groove, it will not work to join the floor boards without the formation of gaps. How to choose a floorboard, see this video:

Looking at the end of the material, you can immediately see if there are any flaws. Before buying, it is recommended to selectively check several boards for high-quality docking with each other.

Properly selected material guarantees the life of a wooden floor 30-50 years.

They are becoming extremely popular at the moment. It's all about their environmental cleanliness and aesthetics. Floor boards must be selected in such a way that they meet certain operational requirements. First of all, they should not sag when walking and under fairly heavy furniture.

When buying, you need to pay attention to both the type of wood from which the boards are made, and their thickness.

For example, boards made of soft wood are quite suitable. Usually it is inexpensive pine or spruce. In addition, quite valuable species of European trees are often used for these purposes. Floor boards, if it is fair, must be made of hard rocks. It can be beech, oak, yew, merbau. Mahogany floors look great, as well as larch.

As for the thickness, it is chosen, first of all, taking into account the step between the lags. In the event that the distance between them is 80-85 cm, you can take boards with a thickness of 3.5-4 mm.

With a step of 1 m, you will need a thicker material. If the logs are laid at a distance of 50-80 cm, thinner floor boards can be used. In addition, when buying, you must consider the quality of the material. It should have as few knots as possible. Rot and wood-boring beetles, of course, should not be at all.

When laying, it is necessary to adhere to a certain temperature and humidity regime. The fact is that the tree is able to absorb moisture from the surrounding air. Therefore, the humidity in the room should not exceed 60%, and the temperature should be below +8 degrees. The floor board, the price of which is quite high, requires careful handling during operation. The above mode will be optimal for further use of the coating. It must be said that in modern apartments the humidity index can be in the range of 18-70%.

Therefore, it is better not to use breeds that are capricious in this regard.

In stable - those that practically do not react to such changes in the microclimate, contain a large amount of tannins. Floor boards made of oak, ash, teak or merbau can be the best option in this regard. If the owners of the apartment want to see wooden floors in their house, they should consider purchasing an air humidifier. Using it indoors can significantly extend the life of such a finish.

For the installation of a monolithic coating, a grooved floor board is suitable. Its difference from the usual one is the presence of a spike / groove device. Such a coating is considered more durable. When installing it, the first board is laid with a comb against the wall. The material is nailed to the logs, sinking their hats into the wood.

In order for the floors to last much longer, it is necessary to provide additional protection for them. First, the boards are treated with an antifungal agent. One of the disadvantages of wood is its combustibility. And therefore, it is also desirable to process it with a special composition that increases the fire-resistant properties of this material. Well, at the final stage, you should varnish the boards or paint them.

The arrangement of a long-term and high-quality wooden coating includes not only the issues of compliance with the technology, but also what boards are needed for the floor, based on the characteristics of its operation in each room.

Each type of board has its own specifications and is designed for different types of floors. The right choice will be confirmed by a long service life, the absence of creaking, cracked cracks and warping.

Usage Criteria

For the installation of the finish coating, materials with appropriate quality indicators must be used.

For a wooden board, these will be the criteria:

For different types of wood, these characteristics differ over a fairly wide range. In addition to massive boards made from natural raw materials, there are more than 20 types of various wood-shaving materials used to cover the base.

A solid board differs from a glued product in the absence of synthetic fumes and the possibility of repeated grinding of a worn surface (repairability).

Influence of wood species

Plank coverings are laid not only inside buildings, but also on open verandas, balconies and terraces. The internal location also differs in temperature and humidity, walls, ceilings (kitchen, library, basement and utility rooms).

Exotic hardwood boardwalks have proven themselves in difficult outdoor conditions. Due to their good physical and mechanical characteristics in terms of resistance to climatic influences, they serve in the local area for at least 20 years.

Rosewood has special decorative qualities.

The following breeds have gained practical distribution:

• rosewood;
• bamboo;
• zebrano;
• bunga;
• merbau;
• sucupira.

Of the local species, Siberian larch is used for such purposes.

For interior work, it is advisable to use more affordable domestic materials of common breeds with selected properties:

Hard rocks are designed for places with high traffic and high loads.

Conifers are used in conditions of humid air for subflooring and budget coverage options.

Solid dock is laid in places of high loads from furniture, frequent walking, attractive appearance of the texture. Soft wood is used for finishing recreation areas where there are no intense loads.

The normal moisture content of wood should be in the range of 8 - 10% and certainly not exceed 12%. Otherwise, shrinkage will lead to a change in linear dimensions, gaps or weakenings will appear in the locks of the elements. Excessive moisture retention will cause parts to warp.

Additional treatment with antiseptic compounds, stain and flame retardants extend the service life with fluctuations in humidity and temperature.

Board types

Qualitative indicators of materials can be generally determined by referring to a certain class.

In relation to floorboards, this affects not only the strength, but also the appearance, the cost of a cube of material.

I distinguish 4 classes of wood products:

1. Higher. The surface does not contain the slightest scratches, knots, traces of veneer, color transitions.
2. A (grade 1). There are heterogeneities in the structure, slight color differences, traces of knots.
3. B (grade 2). On the surface of the boards there may be knots, minor cracks, resin pockets, color stains.
4. C (grade 3). There are defects larger than 3 mm, the curvature of the plane is possible.

Boards belonging to class "C" are used for filing the subfloor due to their unattractive appearance and low technical characteristics.

This material performs a finishing coating in a budgetary version, if additional grinding and painting is done.

The grade of the board affects the design of the future floor, since the number of defects directly proportionally reduces the performance of the flooring:

The thickness of the most commonly used floorboard for residential premises is 2-4 cm, the width is within 10 - 30 cm, the length depends on the size of the room 3 - 6 m. A parquet board acts as a separate position in terms of dimensions and installation technology from floor coverings.

Influence of the thickness of the parquet variant on the applicability

A ten-millimeter board can be sanded once

In addition to decorative features and hardness index, an important parameter will be the thickness of the parquet board for the floor, which one should be chosen for specific room conditions.

The main criteria will be the expected wear and the prospect of repair associated with this factor:

1. A solid solid board 10 mm thick can be sanded (with the removal of the top layer no more than 2 mm) once.
2. A thickness of 12 mm allows the board to be scraped and used for flooring over a warm floor.
3. The most common thickness of wood material in individual construction will be 15 mm. This is determined by the presence of special locking joints in the products and the possibility of repeated repairs.
4. Thick parquet boards (up to 2 cm) are usually used in the installation of capital floors in offices, social and cultural institutions. It is characterized by high strength, the ability to withstand variable loads for a long time, conditions of high humidity.
5. The maximum thickness of the parquet plate is 2.2 cm. This type-setting element is laid in public buildings in which there is a constant high load from the movement of human traffic. Installation is carried out by the deck method, which is more suitable for long-term operation. For more information about the properties of parquet boards, see this video:

The quality of installation and the further behavior of wooden type-setting surfaces directly depend on the preparation of the base for their laying.

Types of bases

The supporting plane for the boarding must be level and correspond to the maximum design loads.

The types of bases can be of the following type:

• concrete floor slabs;
• cement strainer;
• wooden logs;
• old wooden floor;
• plywood sheets laid on a screed;
• GVP sheets on a dry screed.

According to the method of attaching the board to the base, the following designs are distinguished:

• fixing to the lags with self-tapping screws (nails);
• adhesive compositions;
• floating setting.

The tree is easy to process, but requires additional protection from the constant action of a large amount of moisture. For this, waterproofing is provided inside the room and water drainage for outdoor installation.

When building and repairing a wooden floor, it is important to choose the right boards (floorboards), as well as to lay them correctly. Usually tongue-and-groove boards are chosen for the floor, with ventilation slots on the back side.

Now you can choose and buy boards that do not require additional processing - with impregnation and paintwork on the outside.

Depending on the design of the floors, the boards must be selected in size.
Which floor boards to choose in which cases, what to look for when choosing floor boards - let's take a closer look.

What thickness of floorboards to choose

Often, logs are the basis of a wooden floor; a thick board is laid on them, which is not only a beautiful floor covering, but also a supporting structural element.
The usual thickness is 32 - 45 mm.

Another option - the board serves only as a decoration, it is not a carrier. It is laid on a subfloor - a solid plank, plywood coating or on a concrete base. In this case, a parquet board with a thickness of 15 - 25 mm is selected.

If the board will bear the bending load, then it is impossible to save on its thickness. In such a design, the main thing is to ensure stability and rigidity so that the floor does not vibrate underfoot. No one will like flimsy floors in the future.

It is important that the span between the supporting pillars for the lag, and the distance between the lags, are optimal. These parameters depend on the height of the lag and the thickness of the covering boards - i.e. load-bearing strength.
The height of the lag and the distance between them are dictated primarily by the standard dimensions of the sheets or insulation mat.

For example, for an average climatic zone, at least 16 cm of glass wool should be placed above the ventilated underground, the usual width of its mat is 60 cm, therefore, the lag between the centers should be 75 cm, with their width being 15 cm.

Thickness savings are closely related to wood species. After all, it is the value of a tree that determines its price.

Dimensions and design of boards

Boards for the floor (floorboards) are joined together by a tongue and groove. Each board has a tongue (comb) on the side end on one side, and a groove on the other. Usually the sheet pile has a trapezoidal bevel - then the boards are easy to join even of long lengths, which is important for the quality of the flooring.
Simplified versions with square tongues are now considered obsolete.

The length of the boards is selected according to the size of the room. The standard length of floorboards that can be found on sale is 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5 and 6 meters.

It is known that the orientation of the boards in the room is chosen from the window, according to the beam of the main lighting. Consequently, the logs are parallel to the wall with the window.

It is desirable that the laying is carried out only with a solid board along the length, i.e. The length of the board would be enough for the size of the room.

But if the room is large, then you have to lay two, or even three boards along the length. At the same time, a gap of 3 mm must be left between their ends. In the future, it is likely to increase due to the drying of the wood. At the junction, the ends of the floorboards may bulge. In general, the end joint of the boards is a problematic place on the floors and should be avoided, even if you have to buy larger boards.

If there is an end joint, then it is important to alternate boards of different lengths when laying, so that the seams between them are alternately on two different logs, and even better, alternately on 3 logs.

The width of the boards for laying on the logs can be in the range of 70 - 200mm.
But the wider the board, the more possible warpage. Usually, a material with a width of 100 - 120 mm is selected for a wooden floor. Wider ones - only the highest grade and with special training.

A gap of 1 - 1.5 cm is left between the boards of the wooden floor and the wall.

Wood species

The cheapest boards are made of pine or spruce. But they are soft, it is easy to leave a mark in them with both the heel and the leg of the furniture, they are not the most durable.
Nevertheless, this is a popular option for laying on logs - creating a finishing floor immediately from a carrier board along the logs above the insulation, which, together with the underground, is protected by a vapor barrier.

Usually, pine boards are purchased in a semi-finished state, initially laid with fastening of every 4 boards, and after six months or a year, the floor is re-laid, the boards are rallied, and each board is already fastened.

It should be borne in mind that valuable hardwoods of this thickness are not actually used. After all, the total price will be very significant. Oak, beech, hornbeam, larch, and various other exotic - boards from these types of wood are usually selected with a thickness of 16 - 20 mm. This board is laid on a solid, even base.

Now it is more convenient to buy boards of valuable breeds in finished form- with completed surface treatment, with varnishing, than to do painting and sanding on your own.

Also, many believe that the use of pine and spruce is not entirely environmentally friendly, due to the significant release of various substances from the resin. Hazardous concentrations may occur in unventilated spaces.
Wood resin is a very rich mixture of resin and fatty acids, esters of these acids, sterols, alcohols, waxes and resins. It is known that the content of the essential extract is maximum in autumn-winter and minimum in spring-summer, since the resin is consumed during the intensive growth of the plant. You can focus on the time of harvesting wood. Therefore, soft non-resinous rocks are widely used - alder, and others ...

The technology of laying thin hardwood boards is not complicated, but it has its own specifics. The nuances depend on the size of the board. Next, consider the laying of thick load-bearing boards along the logs.
Optional -

Humidity

Humidity is a key parameter. Boards that are sold in packages, completely ready for laying on the floor, usually have a moisture content of no more than 10%. Large companies adhere to the standard - no more than 7% for a finished painted floorboard or parquet set.

It is recommended to lay boards with humidity up to 15%. You can measure it with a special device. By eye, you can only evaluate "wet - dry" - if the board makes a ringing sound when struck, it shines - it means dry.

Usually wet boards are dried before laying for at least six months in stacks. Laying in stacks with three to five transverse bars, allows you to minimize the distortion, warping of wood during drying.
, - this is especially true for logs, which may be in high dampness and must be ventilated through the underground.

Quality classes

Floorboards differ in quality classes.

• Higher - no knots, cracks, uniform shade, humidity up to 12%.
• A - perhaps a discernible change in shade and structure, knots, cracks are absent.
• B - single cracks, white knots, spotting in color are allowed.
• C - cracks, knots, irregularities are allowed.

Class C material is used only to create subfloors for high-quality flooring.

How flooring is done on logs

Distinguish between the primary laying of boards along the logs and the final one. Primary is done in the first half of the year until the final drying and changing the size of the boards. After that, gaps may appear between the boards.
Therefore, the boards are rallied again, while each board is attached to the lags (with the primary one, each 4). It is possible to fasten "through the log", the fastening points on each board alternate in a checkerboard pattern.

There are curved walls, so in order to withstand the general direction of the flooring, the first board is cut along the wall configuration. The first board is aligned along the stretched cord, which sets the general direction.


The first board is laid with a groove to the wall and is fastened along the edge with screws into each lag, so that the screw heads are closed by the plinth. The last board will also be attached.
The remaining boards are attached to the lags with screws screwed in at 50 - 60 degrees to the horizontal along the border of the tongue. At the same time, a hole is pre-drilled in the floorboards for the screw. The screw must go into the lag at least 3 cm.

For flooring, it is advisable to use a screwdriver, otherwise the work will be long.

The quality of laying will depend entirely on the evenness of the base. The lags are set at the same level, and this is mandatory.

The rallying of boards can be carried out by various lever devices, both with a vertical arrangement of the lever, and with a horizontal one. In this case, the device can be attached to the logs with a screw or by hammering spikes.

It is also possible to rally the old fashioned way - with the help of two wedges resting on brackets driven into the lag.

Choosing the right floorboard is just as important as the design of the floor. After all, the final result largely depends on the board that was laid on the logs.

In the general case, the floor board can be any lumber fixed on the logs. Most often, this name is understood as a tongue-and-groove board. This is lumber that has three processed "finish" sides - two ends and one plane - the front side. On the sides, tongues are formed with a special machine: a groove on one side, a spike on the other. When laying, the spike is driven into the groove, which gives the coating additional strength and can partially hide the cracks formed during drying. Moreover, even a slightly dry tongue-and-groove floor looks good.

A board with a tongue and groove can have a comb of various shapes. It is most convenient in laying if it has a conical shape. The cone easily enters even in the presence of a slight curvature of the boards. It is much more difficult to fight with a rectangular spike. If there are deviations, the board is not perfect, then you either have to suffer with it for a long time, or cut it into pieces no more than 2-3 meters long, and then join the segments. It turns out a completely different, untidy look.

Also, floor boards come with a quarter-shaped protrusion. This is when half the width of the board is removed on one side from below, on the other - from above. This type is even easier to install than a traditional tenon-groove board, while the floor looks just as good.

There is another type of floorboard - with edges beveled at 45 °. It is also not very common, although it is no worse in operation and aesthetics.

Sometimes an ordinary edged board is laid on the floor - it has a rectangular shape in cross section. It is placed close - end-to-end - and so fixed with nails or self-tapping screws. If we talk about baths, then when installing leaking floors, it is the edged board that will be the best option. In other cases, you need to give preference to options with any kind of locks: when drying, cracks are not so noticeable.

In addition to the grooved board from the array, there is also a glued one. It consists of several boards glued together. At the same time, the wood fibers are arranged in such a way that under any conditions its geometry remains practically unchanged. If it does change, it is many times less than massive. But due to the complexity of manufacturing such material, its prices are high. But the floor of the glued board is almost guaranteed to be flat.

Types of floorboard locks

There is another type of lumber that is laid on the floor. This is a deck board. It differs in that its front part is not even, but wavy. And even if the board is wet, it is not slippery to walk on it. It is rarely used indoors, mainly due to the fact that it is very difficult to bring an uneven surface to an ideal state. But when building a bath, it can come in handy if you arrange a pool or font on the porch. Having laid a decking around the pool, you can not be afraid that someone will slip.

Terrace board looks very attractive on the floor

Any kind of lumber is in the category "euro". There is a floor board, grooved or not, there is a terraced one. The whole difference is in the presence of a longitudinally located groove on the back side, which contributes to better ventilation. There must be a difference in the quality of the wood: no knots. But the best quality is not always available, and higher prices are always available. If you decide to take the option with a groove, be sure to meticulously check the quality of the material, geometry.

Types of wood for the floor

Any wood can be laid on the floor. The only question is your preferences and material possibilities. The purpose of the space can also play a role.

For baths, a coniferous board is traditionally placed on the floor. It is the most inexpensive, and its quality indicators are not bad. Coniferous species contain a large amount of resins (pine and spruce), some contain tannins (larch), which prolongs their life in conditions of constantly changing temperatures and humidity. The only drawback of pine and spruce is that they are soft rocks and if there are a lot of people steaming, they are quickly erased. But if the bath is family, occasionally visited, then such wood will stand for a long time.

If we talk specifically about the premises, then larch will behave better in “wet” conditions: it only becomes stronger from water. It is better to lay pine and spruce in a locker room or a rest room. They cannot stand the constant presence of water, especially since not many people want to treat the wood for steam rooms with antiseptics, and without them they will most likely begin to rot.

They put wood and hardwood on the floor, but it is more prone to decay, and even more often darkens from water. There are still some nuances that are determined only by experience. For example, oak wood is durable, not afraid of water. But it is better not to put it on the floor in wet rooms: it is very slippery when wet. It is impossible to walk on it, so you will have to cover this beauty with anti-slip rugs.

It looks like a tongue-and-groove euro-board in profile

When installing a double plank floor for roughing and finishing, the boards must be taken from the same wood. For the subfloor, unedged will go (be sure to remove the bark and process from bugs), for the finishing - edged, tongue-and-groove. But only from the same wood. Otherwise, due to different amounts of expansion and contraction with changes in temperature and humidity, the floor may lead.

Floor board dimensions

The minimum thickness of boards for laying on the floor is determined by the step of laying the lag. The greater the distance between two adjacent supports, the greater the thickness of the lumber needed.

Table of the dependence of the thickness of the floorboard on the installation step of the lag

But this is the minimum thickness. It is advisable to take with some margin: taking into account the fact that periodically it will be necessary to update the appearance - to grind, removing the top layer. If the thickness is taken "back to back", after one or two grindings, the floorboards will begin to sag underfoot and creak - not the greatest pleasure. To get rid of the "dancing" boards, you will have to lay new, thicker boards, or reduce the lag step (increase their number), which is also not fun.

The width of the boards can be different - from 30 mm to 120 mm. In general, it turns out like this: the wider the board, the fewer joints and the faster the installation. Therefore, for ordinary dry rooms, you can choose a wide board. But it must be said that a cube of a wide board costs more than the same volume of a narrower one: there is more waste.

When choosing the width of the boards in the bath, there are also some nuances. It is better not to take wide boards: with increasing humidity, they change their geometry more strongly. Sometimes it is so strong that it becomes problematic to walk. Therefore, in the steam room or shower room, a narrow or medium-width board is used.

How many boards in one cubic meter

Having decided on the size of the floorboards, you need to calculate how many of them you need to buy: lumber is sold per cubic meter.

There are no strict standards in this industry, just as there is no clear distinction between varieties. Some producers distinguish only two varieties, others may have five or six. You have to focus on the spot.

The only thing that is clear is that higher-grade products should not have knots at all. It is advisable to buy them if you want to varnish the board. If you plan to paint, then there is no point in overpaying for the absence of knots: they are still not visible under the paint. The only thing you need to pay attention to is that they are not "dead" - black. Black knots crumble and fall asleep, but we don't need it.

There is only a more or less established standard in length: 6 meters. But many sawmills make both three and two-meter boards. Moreover, a cubic meter of three meters will cost less than six meters. So if you do not need a long board, look for the right size: it will be cheaper.

Now about how to count the number of cube boards. To do this, you need to calculate the volume of one board. You have decided on the width and thickness of the board, knowing the standard length, you can calculate its volume: you need to multiply all the dimensions. But they must be expressed in meters.

For example, we will lay a board 40 * 150 mm. Convert millimeters to meters:

40 mm = 0.04 m, 150 m = 0.15 m

We will take a standard length of 6 m. The total will be 0.04 m * 0.15 m * 6 m = 0.036 m 3. One board is 0.036 cubic meters. Now we find how many such boards will be in one cube (we divide the unit by 0.036) we get 27.7 pieces, but 27 pieces will be shipped.

Knowing this algorithm, you can calculate the number of any board or beam. To make it easier for you, the volume of one board of the most popular sizes and their number in a cubic meter are calculated and listed in the table (for six-meter lumber).

Now about the volume of purchases. Having calculated how many boards you will need, take with a margin of at least 10-15% (and preferably 30%). Firstly, marriage always occurs, and secondly, most likely in a year or two the floor will have to be sorted out - cracks will appear, some boards will be unscrewed with a “propeller”. And then you will need to change or add boards. If there is nothing left, then those bought from another batch are unlikely to become normal. There will definitely be problems: either it will not work in thickness, or there will be problems with the tongue and groove. In general, a few pieces should lie in reserve for a couple of years.

How to choose

First of all, you need to determine the humidity. The best option for baths is an average humidity of about 20-25%. If you take a board of natural moisture, it will lead during drying, there will be many “skis” and “propellers”. Then they can only be used in the construction of fences. If you take overdried - chamber drying - in conditions of high humidity in the bath, it will begin to swell, the floor will warp and rise. So the best option is the average humidity.

First of all, when buying, you need to check the geometry. When choosing an edged board, pay attention to the fact that the edges are even. And the thickness on one side was equal to the thickness on the other side. In principle, you need to check this parameter when buying any sorted lumber (except for unedged boards). Take a caliper and measure in several places along the board on one side and the other. There shouldn't be any difference.

When buying tongue-and-groove boards, you also need to pay attention to the geometry and dimensions of the tongue and groove. In order for everything to connect without problems, the groove is made a little deeper than the height of the ridge. Then everything fits together easily. On an incorrectly tuned machine, the opposite is often the case. Then, no matter how hard you try, you won't be able to make a floor without cracks. You will either have to change the boards (if possible) or remove part of the spike.

There is another mistake that is made in the production of grooved boards: the upper edge above the spike (crest) is more profiled than the lower one. With such a defect, gaps are generally inevitable: it is more difficult to deal with this drawback. Only special equipment is required.

You also need to check how much the boards sagged during drying. They are stacked in piles, shifting with bars. Sometimes they become uneven. Then, when laying, it will be problematic to dock them.

All these shortcomings are revealed quite simply. First you need to inspect the ends of the boards. If you know what to look for (and you now know), the flaws are immediately visible. Estimate the dimensions of the tenon and groove, and also see if the edges are evenly located above the tenon. If everything is fine, take two boards and join them, as when laying. If their geometry is not broken, they are combined easily and without gaps. If the tests were successful, the grooved floor board can be taken: you will lay it quickly and easily.

How and what to fix

A few years ago, there were no discrepancies: the floorboard was nailed to the joists with nails through and through. Sometimes the hat was flattened and then driven deep into the chisel - this was so that nothing could be seen. Today you can do the same. And save at the same time: nails are cheaper. But after a while, a large number of cracks appear in the wooden floor. To get rid of them, the floor is dismantled, compacted, one or two boards are added near the wall - as it will. This is where self-tapping screws have an advantage: they are easier to dismantle without damaging the wood. And you try to get a nail with a flattened head and not break the wood. No way. Therefore, more and more often they “sit” on self-tapping screws, although the option is ambiguous: nails are stronger, and hats often fly off on self-tapping screws, especially hardened ones.

In a thorn or in a groove?

For hidden fastening, self-tapping screws are not fixed through the boards, but into a spike or groove. It is possible through and through, into the face, but then the hats will need to be drowned in the board, and the holes should be covered with putty. Even if the floor is painted, although this is done very rarely in baths. If you take wood putty of the appropriate color, and mix some wood dust from your boards into it, then almost nothing will be visible even under light varnish.

If the screws are screwed into the groove, then at an angle of about 60 °. If in a spike, then the angle is smaller - it can be almost perpendicular to the plane of the floor. The second option holds the board more securely (captures ¾ of the thickness), although the “groove” method is more common.

In any case, you first need to drill a hole for the cap with a larger diameter drill and a smaller one for the screw shaft. This operation, although time-consuming, serves as a guarantee that the board will not burst.

Hidden fastening technology

The technology of hidden flooring is as follows: the first board is nailed tightly through and through. The second and subsequent ones are attached, beaten with wedges, or better, they are attracted with clamps so that there are no gaps anywhere. Then fasteners are screwed into the groove or spike at an angle or clogged. If the wood is dense, the screws go hard. To make the process easier, the threads are lubricated with soap (it can be slightly moistened to make it easier to smear).

With this method of fastening, neither nails nor screws are visible. But, if there is one drawback: only one edge of the board turns out to be attracted to the log. With changes in humidity, shrinkage or movement of the foundation, the other may rise. It turns out the floor is uneven, and it creaks more often. Although, it is never too late to drive a few nails or screw a few self-tapping screws into the face.

What to take self-tapping screws

What screws to use for flooring in the bath? Preferably with a thread that does not start from the cap itself. This will make it safer to keep. And it’s better to take non-hot ones - they are stronger. For a bath, it is better - galvanized - they will not rust. The length of the screw depends on the thickness of the board: it should be 2.5 times larger. It seems that according to the parameters of self-tapping screws - everything. With nails, everything is simpler: you need ordinary ones, but not screw or corrugated ones - it is almost impossible to pull them out without damaging the wood.

It is better to take self-tapping screws with a thread that does not start from the cap itself

There is one secret inherited from the ancestors. It will allow you to use ordinary nails in the bath, but they will not rust: they need to be boiled in drying oil. Once dry, you can use. Such nails were used to nail the shingles to the roofs, and they did not rust for decades.

So: with the method of fastening and the choice of fasteners, you need to decide on your own. There are different opinions, and they are all based on experience - one's own or ancestors. But it has long been known: how many people, so many opinions. Add more of yours. But remember that in a year or two the floor will have to be sorted out. So for the first time it is worth fixing on a minimum of nails or self-tapping screws - as you decide. Then, already shrunken, it will be possible to fix it thoroughly.

How the floorboard is installed and how clamps are used to eliminate gaps, see the video.

A device for tightening floor boards can be made by hand according to the attached video instruction.