Do-it-yourself molds for cladding tiles. Types of forms for the production of facade tiles and methods of its manufacture

A large number of facing building materials are produced for facade finishing. Each of them has its own characteristics and advantages. But many are often stopped by the cost of the material.

Therefore, they resort to an alternative solution - making facade tiles with their own hands. This saves you money and gives the building facade the look you like. In this article, we will share some of the secrets to the process of making tiles at home.

The choice of material - what influences it

When choosing a material for making tiles with your own hands, you need to understand that it plays a role not only in decoration. The decoration must reliably protect the facade from the negative effects of the environment.

In order to minimize the cost of producing façade tiles, the following factors are taken into account:

The cost of the material for manufacturing.
Cooking technology availability.
The shape and dimensions of the product.
Availability of decor and color shade.

Important! For the production of cladding, you can use different dry mixes, ranging from ordinary concrete to special compounds.

Selecting shapes

It is important to understand that the factory technology for the manufacture of facade tiles is not suitable for home conditions. The only thing that can be implemented is the vibration casting method. As for the forms, the cost of a quality product is high.

The purchase decision depends on the scope of work. One quality mold is designed for up to 1500 tile-making cycles. If you need to produce up to 20 squares of tiles, then buying an expensive mold will not justify the investment. In this case, it is better to do it yourself. Therefore, it is important to make correct calculations.

Important! It is not always possible to make the shape at home so that the tiles are of high quality, which will affect the aesthetics of the final result.

Therefore, if there are no abilities and opportunities to make a high-quality form with your own hands, it is better to purchase it.

Necessary equipment

The complete set of equipment for the manufacture of facade tiles with your own hands depends on the raw materials used. The easiest way is to use concrete. A good shape and a vibrating table are required for the production of tiles.

The mold can be made of plywood, plastic, wood or polyurethane. The best material is polyurethane. Through it, you can convey the texture of the future tile in the smallest detail. Due to this, you can ideally create an imitation of natural stone and other building material.

A large number of home craftsmen make a vibrating table on their own. This requires a metal frame, a sheet of metal or other material for the table top, a motor from a washing machine and a spring.

Vibration pressing technology is also used in the manufacture of facade tiles. Thanks to its use, the density of the raw material is reduced without a large amount of water.

In some cases, a kiln is used to ensure that terracotta, clinker or porcelain stoneware is fully cooked. In these furnaces, the workpiece is fired at a temperature of 1,000 to 3,000 degrees.

note

The main advantage of self-made tiles is the ability to give them the desired shape and texture. You can experiment to make exclusive products, for example, make a non-standard shape or use a different composition of raw materials.

Two easy ways to make

Step-by-step instruction

Now let's look at the step-by-step process of how to make facade tiles with your own hands. All work must be carried out at temperatures from +15 to +30 degrees Celsius. This temperature range will provide ideal conditions for the product to cure.

note

For the purpose of protection, gloves and goggles must be used. The room must be well ventilated.

To begin with, the casting molds are prepared. A vibrating table is also installed. You can use a regular table.

Further work has the following sequence:

The full hardening period can be up to two days. During this time, the forms must not be touched. After this period, the molds are immersed in a container with warm water up to +60 degrees Celsius for three minutes. After they are removed from the water, as well as the tiles from the mold.

It must be removed carefully so as not to damage the workpiece. You can use a rubber mallet or light hand movements. The facade tiles will be completely ready for further cladding after 10 days.

Conclusion
As you can see, DIY tile is a doable task. By making it yourself, you will save your family budget, but at the same time you need to spend time and effort on the production process itself.

But the end result will not leave you and those around you indifferent. To consolidate all the material presented, we recommend that you watch the prepared video.

Tile is a versatile material that can be used for facing work, bringing beauty to the home and ensuring a long service life.

Often, when it comes to tiles, the product is used to ordering from manufacturing firms or buying in hardware stores.

However, there is a way to make a tile yourself, while it is possible to create your own type of tile.

To do this, you just need to make a mold and a high-quality solution.

It is better to consider this issue in detail in order to make high quality tiles.

It is mainly used if it is not possible to carry out facing work using bricks. The load-bearing function is unusual for the tile, and when a wall is being erected, such material does not participate in the installation. The cladding is carried out after the wall has been erected..

The thickness of mainly facade tiles is 14mm. Given this thickness parameter, the method of wall cladding using this material can be called gluing. For reliable fastening to the wall surface, a special adhesive is applied to the tiles. Using tiles, you can clad not only the outer part of the building, but also the inner one.

From the variety of tiles, the following can be distinguished:

... Has a high level of density, has a wide variety of geometric shapes in which it is produced.
... Has become quite popular in recent years. The shape in which it can often be seen is a square or rectangle. It has a fairly large size, thanks to this, it is not only profitable to use, but also convenient, since installation with the help is simple and does not take much time.
Polymer sand. The main purpose of this type of material is decor. Due to this type of tile material, a wide variety of design ideas can be realized.

They also distinguish less popular ones, such as:

Manufacturing process

Before embarking on the process of creating tiles for facade cladding, it is best to have an idea of what the technological process is.

The temperature regime at which it is necessary to carry out all manufacturing work should be in the range from plus 15 to plus 30 degrees Celsius. This temperature regime must be observed in order to ensure the highest quality solution hardening process. In addition, work requires the use of protective clothing and devices, it is imperative to wear protective glasses and gloves.

The room in which the work is carried out must be constantly ventilated. The first thing that the tile making process requires is making the molds. They are installed on a vibrating table or on any flat hard surface.

They are lubricated with a small amount of vegetable oil or liquid soap. This allows you to easily separate the finished product from the mold in the future.... A solution made according to a special recipe is poured into molds and left for the required period of time until the moment of complete hardening.

Forms for facade tiles

One of the main points in the process of creating a tile or artificial stone for is the form. Such a device is made of ABS plastic.

This material is the most widespread among others, but silicone, polyvinyl chloride or polyurethane can be used for such purposes. These materials are capable of providing a high-quality result that will have the desired degree of haze or will be glossy on the surface.

As for the forms made from PVC or plastic, they are convenient to use, because they do not need lubrication and steaming, since the mixture that is poured into them from concrete is not able to stick.

A good option for the material from which the molds can be made is polyurethane. It is characterized by good strength and durability.... If the form is made of polyurethane, then it can be used for a fairly long time, making 1000 or more tiles with it. In addition, this shape gives the tiles a glossy ideal surface:

There are a wide variety of types of shapes that are used to create façade tiles.

The main ones are:

limestone ore;
marble;
faceted limestone;
cliff;
dolomite.

By independently creating a tile, you can make a shape that is not similar to any of the listed ones. Thus, the facing facade of the building will be unique and inimitable of its kind.

Manufacturing process

The whole process that is required to complete in order to create a facade tile with your own hands can be divided into several stages.

Such as:

creation of forms;
preparation of the solution;
the final stage;
directly receiving the finished product.

Making molds from polyurethane

Initially, you need to decide on the appearance of the tiles that you want to make. In addition, you need to determine all the parameters of its dimensions. ... It is very important to correctly make its front surface.... For simplicity, you can use ready-made products from natural stone, which must be imitated.

In order to make the mold, you need to use a two-component polyurethane potting compound. Such solutions have the required level of performance characteristics that remain with the finished product.

The whole process can be represented as follows:

For the base, you can use a piece of plexiglass, the size of which is slightly larger than the area of the stone. Attach it face up.
After that, it is necessary to measure the level at which the sample exceeds the stone and draw a contour for the construction of the future formwork. The height of the formwork should exceed the sample by 2 cm.
The stone, removed from the base, using silicone sealant, is attached to the plexiglass, adhering to the applied contour on the formwork.
After the solution has been poured into the formwork for the form, it is necessary to wait a while for solidification. It often takes 24 hours for such a process.

Solution

The solutions that are used to make tiles with your own hands are very diverse.

In this case, an example of the most popular mortar is given, which is based on cement.:

it is necessary to pour 1 part of sand and 0.5 water into a container suitable for mixing the solution. It is necessary to stir the composition for 1 minute;
after that, cement (2 parts) and water (1 part) must be added to the resulting mass. Mix everything thoroughly;

NOTE!

The consistency of the mortar after mixing should be similar to the mortar intended for sculpting. The mass must not be liquid.

when the desired consistency has been reached, a coloring pigment can be added. After stirring the composition for 2 minutes, we can assume that the solution for the facade tiles is ready.

Unfolding into forms

The process of unfolding the prepared solutions into forms must be carried out on a vibrating table, which must be turned on during the process. It is necessary to fill the forms with the composition in portions, for this you can use a trowel or a wide spatula.

The composition in the process of laying out must be subjected to vibration... This removes air from the mass.

After the mass has been spread over all forms, it is necessary to additionally level the surface using a wide spatula. It is also necessary to remove the composition that fell on the sides of the molds.

The last thing to do at this stage is to remove the filled containers with the composition in a drying cabinet or put them on a rack.

The duration of the period that is required for the tile to harden is two days. During this time, the molds with the solution must not be touched..

After the specified period, you can start removing the finished tiles from the molds. To do this, they are first immersed in water, the temperature of which is 40-60 degrees Celsius and left for 2-3 minutes. After the tiles are taken out of the water, the mold should separate well.

To facilitate the process, you can use a rubber mallet and tap it lightly on the surface of the mold..

Conclusion

Making facade tiles with your own hands is quite a fascinating process. In addition to the fact that it is possible to make the tiles you like most, which will imitate an artificial stone or brick, you can significantly save money on repairs.

You can start the process of decorating the walls using handmade tiles after 7-10 days. The quality of the do-it-yourself tile material is not much different from that offered on the construction market.

In contact with

For the exterior decoration of building facades, a special facing material is used - facade tiles. It is made from mineral mixtures, which may include cement, quartz sand, shale or clay. Do-it-yourself facade tiles are made on special equipment, which allows you to achieve the desired technical and decorative qualities of the coating.

What are facade tiles?

The service life of tiles is significantly longer than that of facade plaster

Facade tiles are an environmentally friendly facing material that is used not only for finishing the facades of houses, but also for paving open areas or paths. The service life of such a coating is much longer than that of facade plaster. That is why facing materials have become so popular in the exterior decoration of buildings.

What types of facade tiles are there?

terracotta;
clinker;
with glass cover;
with ceramic coating;
double layer with decorative ceramic finish.

Features of facade tiles

Self-production of facade tiles is fraught with some difficulties, you need the right equipment

Whatever materials you decide to make the facing material, it will have the following qualities:

high strength;
low level of water absorption;
frost resistance;
wear resistance;
long service life.

By choosing the shape of the corresponding configuration, you can create coatings with different shapes (triangular, square, multifaceted, asymmetric). This allows you to decorate buildings in almost any style. However, it should be understood that the independent production of facade tiles is fraught with some difficulties. In particular, this applies to the acquisition or assembly of the necessary equipment.

The nuances of the production of tile materials

If you want to get a really high-quality and durable material at the output, in no case try to save on raw materials. Making facade tiles at home is already a rather risky undertaking for those who first encounter a similar process. But if you strictly follow the recommendations of experienced craftsmen, as a result of molding a properly prepared solution, you will certainly get a durable facing material.

What points should you pay special attention to?

When choosing tiles, pay attention to the composition of the components

Amount of water - solutions that are too liquid in consistency, as a rule, solidify unevenly, which leads to cracking of the material. To avoid this, do not add too much water to the mixture;
Adding plasticizers- to improve the physical and mechanical properties of the coating, add plasticizers to the raw material;
Cement is the strength and, accordingly, the coating is largely determined by the quality of the cement. In the production of tiled flooring, it is advisable to use cement not lower than the M200 grade.

Necessary equipment

Example of a plastic mold for facade tiles

What equipment is required for the production of facade tiles? To create a high-quality coating, you must purchase the following equipment:

Concrete mixer - if the volume of work is small, you can also use an ordinary construction mixer to mix the components of raw materials. But in the case of using such equipment, mixing the components of the solution should take no less than the amount received;
Vibrating table - the vibrating surface of the table during the forming process allows the solutions to be tamped, which affects the density of the future coating. If necessary, you can assemble it yourself by attaching a construction vibrator to a metal table;
Molds - directly in the molds and the raw material will freeze. To make such structures, it is enough to assemble a wooden frame of the required shape, fastening the parts with metal corners.

Of course, by purchasing professional equipment for the manufacture of facade tiles, you can achieve much better results. In particular, this applies to forms. If you need to create tiles that imitate natural stone or brick, you will need matrices with a corrugated surface.

Tile making process

Facade tiles are usually made by vibration casting or pressing

The technology for manufacturing facade tiles is quite simple, but it requires careful implementation of all stages of work. What materials will be required to pour concrete into a mold?

containers for diluting the solution;
construction mixer and spatula;
cement (not lower than the m500 brand);
plasticizers;
pigments for dyeing raw materials;
sand.

So, the direct process of production of tile materials consists of the following stages:

A solution of the above components is diluted in a container;
Using a construction mixer, the components of the mixture are mixed until the mass is homogeneous;
Forms are laid on a vibrating table and a concrete mixture is poured into them;
So that when removing the tile does not get stuck, the molds are initially coated with soapy water;
The semi-finished product is covered with polyethylene and left for several days;
Then the dry tiles are laid out and left for another couple of days until complete hardening.

The production process of tile materials is shown in more detail in the video clip.

Manufacturers overview

To select a really high-quality tile, you need to give preference only to the most popular and well-established manufacturers. These include:

Stroeher, a German manufacturer of tile materials, adds mineral granules and modifying components to the composition of raw materials that improve the frost resistance of the coating. Stroeher façade tiles have a 25-year lifetime warranty;
King Klinker is one of the best Polish cladding companies producing high quality tiles with very low water absorption. Polymeric compounds are added to the solution before molding, which form a protective film on the tile surface;
Litos - facade tiles are made by hyper-pressing from a cement composition with the addition of kaolin substances. Thanks to this, the coating has high technical indicators, such as strength and frost resistance.

Making facade tiles is a relatively simple process that requires a master to accurately perform work at all stages. At the same time, the quality of the future coating is largely determined by the composition of the raw materials and the homogeneity of the prepared solution.

Despite the huge selection of ready-made finishing materials, various homemade products are always relevant, giving an exclusive interior or facade. Various variations of decorative tiles that imitate brickwork, which decorate any room, are constantly popular with home craftsmen. In this article, we will consider two methods of making such an imitation - with completely different raw materials and technologies, they are united by simplicity and availability.

DSP decorative tiles for interior and exterior decoration
Decorative plaster brick

Decorative tiles from CBPB for interior and exterior decoration

This method was shared in his comment by a member of our portal with the nickname Albeduin.

Albeduin FORUMHOUSE Member

A method of making a decorative stone without pouring each into a mold, such a tile can be made in the simplest way. The cost of consumables per 1 m² is within 15-30 rubles.

DIY decorative brick.

The price was relevant three years ago, even taking into account the rise in price, it did not fundamentally increase, especially when you consider that not only raw materials are becoming more expensive over time, but also the square of the finished tile is worth a lot today.

Solution

The solution is prepared from sand, cement, water and acrylic primer (concentrate) - it is the primer that provides the solution with homogeneity and elasticity, and the finished tile has increased strength. The ratio of cement and sand is 1/3, the primer is about 100 ml per bucket (half a glass, added after mixing the DSP). The solution is made quite liquid, and it keeps its shape and does not float thanks to the primer.

Equipment

The process of making tiles consists of several stages and does not require expensive equipment or special materials, but you will have to make a couple of special devices yourself.

Frame- base and sides made of plywood, 6-8 mm thick, ends of wooden bars. To provide the tile with high adhesion to future substrates, the back side is also made textured, with characteristic roughness, laying a substrate under the laminate on the plywood. The dimensions of the frame are arbitrary and are tied only to the result - for what purposes and what sizes the tiles are needed.

Masher- assembled from wood and plastic, designed for cutting the total mass in the form into tiles. A frame made of wooden slats, on which a plastic cutting part protruding to the thickness of the tile is fixed. Topikstarter suggests using school rulers as knives, but there are a lot of variations.

Albeduin Simplified the task for everyone interested as much as possible, accompanying a description of the procedure for working with graphics.

Tile making

The form is laid on a table, workbench or any other flat surface and filled with a solution - it must be laid out from one edge and level it with a rule or a spatula, bringing it to the end. To give the relief to the front tiled surface, after leveling the mortar, they pass over it with a trowel "to touch", after which they are again leveled along the edges of the frame. Voids and grooves are obtained, but with a smooth edge.

After about 15-20 minutes, when the solution begins to cool down, the tiles themselves are molded with a press, they can not be cut through, a seam half the thickness is enough. The hardened tile will easily break into segments, and less effort will be spent during molding. After shaping with a spatula, cut the solution around the perimeter of the frame - to avoid problems with the extraction of the blanks. In the frame, the blanks are left for three days, if the volume is needed large, several frames are made and stacked on top of each other during drying.

After three days, the extraction of semi-finished products begins - the frame is removed and the workpiece is pulled out by the backing until the edge of the base coincides with the seam, and gently break off. Albeduin advises to break off in fragments of four tiles, this will simplify painting, and after that break into segments. The tiles are stacked and left for another four days to dry.

The tiles are painted with tinting pastes, but they are added not to the paint, but to the acrylic primer. There are no exact proportions, since there are a lot of producers and different concentrations. The approximate ratio is an eighth of the tube per liter of primer, but pay attention to the recommendations for use, you should not exceed the maximum share. To obtain a shade close to ceramic brick, three colors are used - yellow, red and black. The paste of each color is mixed separately and applied to the tiles with a brush alternately.

The first is yellow, this will be the base, it will be completely absorbed into the surface. After it dries, red is applied, since the tile has already absorbed the yellow primer, the permeability has deteriorated, and the red will partially spread over the voids. The black color is diluted thinner, and it is practically not absorbed and will collect in voids, giving a light shade.

This layer-by-layer coloring not only gives a more natural color, but also protects the tile from external influences, and it can be used both indoors and on the facade.

If you wish, you can "play" with any shades, adjusting to the interior.

A broken tile is obtained by cutting the segments not with a crusher, but with the edge of a spatula; otherwise, the technology is no different. You can grind the seams with the same mortar from which the tile is made - DSP with a primer. You should not use ready-made grouting compounds, as they are designed for a smooth surface, and they will be hammered into the relief of homemade tiles and spoil the whole look. When grouting with a solution, after drying, an indelible plaque is also formed, but it is easily removed - after the seam has dried, they pass through it with a brush dipped in a primer.

Corner tiles

Corner tiles are also made using this production technology, it is more difficult, but it is also quite possible at home. Depending on the desired angle, the frame is assembled not rectangular, but triangular. For those who know how to work with wood and have an electric jigsaw, it will not be difficult to assemble a mold from plywood and timber. Especially having a visual aid from Albeduin.

But not only the form is different, there are nuances in the manufacturing process.

The substrate is not only laid separately in each cell, but also positioned so that the grooves on its surface run horizontally. This is to keep the mortar on an inclined base.

The mortar is made thicker than for flat tiles and with a double dose of primer, since it should be more elastic, not bulge behind the rule and not fall out of the cells. On a thick solution and texture, it will not work to get slaps, the relief is pressed arbitrarily with the tip of a trowel or spatula.

Removing - as in the first option, the blanks are taken out of the mold after three days, carefully prying them together with the substrate, but for drying, they are not folded in a pile, but placed on the edge and the substrate is torn off. If it does not go away (due to an increase in the amount of primer in the solution), leave it for a couple of days.

Division - break the tiles into segments when they are lying on the edge, pulling (you cannot pull) on the short side (up). To simplify breaking, even during the molding process, through notches are made along the edges, and not just trimming along the perimeter of a large segment.

The strength of such a facade tile is best evidenced by the fact that it has been feeling great on the basement of its own topixarter house for the seventh year already. And on the wall in the unheated utility room, nothing happened to her for several years.

Decorative plaster brick

And for the manufacture of imitation of brickwork by the method from the participant of the portal with the nickname Vodnik-k2 even simple fixtures are not required - gypsum "bricks" are made directly on the walls.

Vodnik-k2 FORUMHOUSE Participant

I would like to present to your attention a gypsum plaster under the old brickwork with my own hands. Choosing a decorative finish that matches the coffered ceiling made in the hallway, we settled on the old brickwork. But they decided not to use ready-made materials, but to make a plaster for a brick.

Vodnik-k2 offers its own solution to the issue, embodied in the corridor - gypsum plaster for old brickwork, the cost of which is about 70 rubles per m² (the price of plaster, pigment and protective coating).

Although the technology itself is absolutely simple, the monotony of the process somewhat strains "the very thing for knitting lovers."

DIY gypsum brick. Training

Prime the walls, beat off (using chalk laces or draw according to the rule) borders on them, observing the dimensions of a real brick (every second row is enough). Make a stencil: into four bricks, you can cut it out of plexiglass (plexiglass) 5 mm.

Preparation of the mixture - a bag of dry gypsum plaster (25 kg), dry pigments: ocher (1 l), red (0.5), brown (0.6). All dry components are thoroughly mixed in a large container (for convenience), the gypsum base is poured first. The easiest way to measure the pigment is with a measuring cup (kitchen utensils). The mixture is closed with water (you can add a little primer, the composition will be more elastic) until the consistency of sculpted clay (thick, but easily molded). The resulting effect on the consistency depends, a thick solution - under an old brick, thinner - under a new brick.

Application

The stencil is applied to the wall and the solution is applied, it does not matter what tool is used for laying, even with your hands, if it is more convenient, the main thing is to rub in properly. The surplus is cut off with a spatula, and since the batch is relatively sticky, it stretches after the tool to tear off, resulting in a characteristic relief of ceramic bricks. Before removing the stencil, the borders of the "masonry" are cut with an awl (spatula, knife) so that the edges do not rip up. After removing the stencil, lightly smooth the surface of the tiles with the flat part of the trowel. The process of making decorative bricks is repeated over the entire surface set aside for imitation.

For sealing joints Vodnik-k2 used a homemade grout from a mixture of gypsum assembly glue and dry sand (fraction 0.75), taken in equal proportions and sealed with a primer. The mixture was squeezed out of the bag (if not a pity, a large culinary syringe will do), if necessary, trimmed with a spatula and a brush.

After the plaster has completely dried, the walls are covered with protective and decorative compounds. Which one depends on the desired effect. Topikstarter covered with butediene styrene latex diluted with water 1/6. The products can be applied with a brush, roller or garden spray. If the coverage is small, a plastic bottle attachment will do. Latex increases the adhesion of the plaster to the wall, evens out its permeability. To make the plaster moisture resistant and provide the possibility of wet care, it is coated with a water repellent after latex. You should not abuse latex impregnation - one layer allows you to decorate the product, gives a pleasant, silky shine, after two there will be a gloss that will not add a look to the brick.

Semi-dry pressing method

These technologies differ in the method of molding clay products.

In the first method, a slightly moistened starting material is pressed on special equipment, after which the molded product is placed in an oven for firing without preliminary drying. The resulting product has a low density, which significantly reduces its strength. But, this production technology makes it possible to obtain clinker with low thermal conductivity, which in many cases is valued more than resistance to mechanical stress.

It is this temperature that ensures the transition of the starting material into stronger physical states. It should also be said that the main component of the cost of clinker tiles falls precisely on energy resources, the consumption of energy carriers for such firing is 4 times higher than the need for conventional processing of clay products.

09/11/2013 at 17:09

Materials and equipment
Production technology
Wall decoration

Every owner of suburban real estate wants his house to be not only strong, warm and comfortable, but also to look attractive from the outside. There are many beautiful and durable materials for decorating the outer walls of the house. These are facade tiles, vinyl, plastic, metal, polymer and insulation facade panels, fiber cement and porcelain stoneware slabs of various sizes, colors and textures. They can be attached to the walls using self-tapping screws, or mounted on special glue. Facade panels, the price of which, although not high, require certain skills and the involvement of specialists for their installation. The best solution for decorating the walls of the house will be facade tiles. Its installation on the wall does not require the involvement of specialists and specific construction equipment.

Today, construction stores offer for sale various types of facade tiles, which are distinguished by a wide variety of colors and unexpected design solutions. In these stores you can buy, among other things, plastic molds for them. The Forteza panel is distinguished by the most interesting execution and design. These products are clinker façade tiles made in the form of blocks. Despite the affordable prices, in order to cover the entire house with facade tiles, a considerable amount will be required, which not everyone has.

Modern technologies can significantly reduce the cost of facing a private house.

It is quite possible to make tiles with your own hands at home, and for this you do not need special equipment for production.

Materials and equipment

To make tiles with your own hands, you do not need industrial-sized premises. This work can be organized in a barn, garage or even outdoors under a canopy. Tiles can be made from a variety of materials. So, the following types of material can be the basis for manufacturing:

Concrete.
Starting putty.
Alabaster.
Gypsum.
Clay.

At home, it is preferable to make facade tiles using vibration casting technology. Clinker tiles, despite their obvious quality and strength, require firing. This requires special equipment that is incompatible with economy.

The solution, which is poured into molds, may contain various fillers that give the finished product a certain look and feel.

Materials such as:

Sand.
Small seashells.
Plasticizers.
Dyes.
Sequins.
Glass chips.

Considering that no load will act on the tile, the main task in its production will be to get rid of air bubbles, which can cause cracking and destruction in extreme cold.

Based on this, the following tools and equipment will be required for the production of facade tiles with your own hands:

vibration table;
concrete mixer;
perforator with mixer;
trowel;
wide spatula;
plastic mold pallets;
an old tub or plastic water tank with a capacity of 100 liters;
form;
drying cabinet for placing molds.

If the owner of the house does not have a big rush, then there is no need to purchase a concrete mixer to make the solution, but to prepare the solution in small portions of 10-12 liters in buckets using a perforator with a nozzle. The vibrating table is a fairly convenient equipment for the production of facade tiles. But given its cost, you can either make its analogue yourself, or manually vibrate it.

Production technology

Work on the manufacture of facade tiles should be carried out at temperatures from + 15 ° C to + 30 ° C. This temperature range contributes to the highest quality solidification of the solution. In order to comply with safety measures, it is necessary to use protective goggles and gloves. The production area must be well ventilated. First of all, the forms are prepared. They are installed on a vibrating table or on the surface of a conventional table. The inner surface is lubricated with vegetable oil or liquid soap.

Business: production of clinker bricks and tiles

This will make it easier to separate the tile from the mold. After that, a solution is prepared for pouring into molds.

Preparation of the solution

Solution recipes may vary. In the case of preparing tiles from cement, the technology is as follows: 1 part of sand and 0.5 parts of water are poured into a concrete mixer (bucket) and mixed for 1 minute. Then 2 parts of cement and 1 part of water are added. After stirring for 2-3 minutes, 4 parts of sand and 0.5 parts of water are added. The solution is mixed. It should not be liquid, but resemble a sculpting solution. When the solution has reached the desired consistency, dye is added. After 1-2 minutes of stirring, the solution is ready.

Unfolding mortar and hardening period

The next step is to lay out the solution into separate forms. This is done with the vibrating table running. The mortar is gradually added with a trowel and spread between the individual molds with a wide spatula. All this time, the form is subjected to vibration. You can easily see the air bubbles coming out to the surface. When all the individual forms are filled in, they are smoothed out with a wide spatula. Along the way, the solution is removed along the sides of the mold. Then the mold is placed on a pallet in a drying cabinet or on a rack. It is possible to provide holes in the forms for self-tapping screws.

The hardening period lasts 2 days. All this time, the forms do not disturb. Then the form is lowered for 2-3 minutes into a bath of warm water with a temperature of + 40 ° C to + 60 ° C. After removing the mold from the water, the tiles are removed from it. This is done by hand or by tapping with a rubber mallet. The tile is ready. It will be suitable for fixing on the wall in 7-10 days.

Wall decoration

Installation of facade tiles on the wall is not difficult. Vertical and horizontal frame elements are attached to the wall on self-tapping screws. The tiles on the frame are fixed with clamps and self-tapping screws. Basalt mineral wool slabs can be placed between the frame elements. This will significantly insulate the house. After that, sequentially screwing the clamps to the frame with self-tapping screws, the house cladding is mounted from the facade tiles of our own production.

In case of breakage of one or more tiles, such a facade will be easy to repair. To do this, you should have several dozen facade tiles in stock. You need to store them indoors or under a canopy.

Clinker tiles owe their unique qualities to the manufacturing technology, which makes it possible to obtain such a material from ordinary clay. The technology for the production of clinker tiles was developed several centuries ago, and today there are practically no changes in it, although the equipment used has significantly improved.

What are clinker tiles made of?

In the manufacture of clinker tiles, a natural material such as clay is used; for a variety of colors, natural dyes can be used. You can get a quality product only if you use clay, which has a minimum amount of impurities and is refractory. There are deposits of such material in few countries, which is why a number of states can be distinguished, on whose territory enterprises for the production of high-quality clinker operate. These include Germany, the Netherlands, Poland, Spain and a number of other European countries.

The main technologies for the production of clinker

In industrial production, two technologies are used for the manufacture of clinker tiles:

Semi-dry pressing method
Extrusion technology for the production of clinker tiles

These technologies differ in the method of molding clay products. In the first method, a slightly moistened starting material is pressed on special equipment, after which the molded product is placed in an oven for firing without preliminary drying. The resulting product has a low density, which significantly reduces its strength. But, this production technology makes it possible to obtain clinker with low thermal conductivity, which in many cases is valued more than resistance to mechanical stress.

Extrusion technology involves the use of a special device - an extruder. In essence, it is a large screw meat grinder through which wet plastic clay is passed. After crushing the material, molding is performed using a special, most often a vacuum press. The resulting billet is subjected to preliminary drying and only then is sent to the kiln for firing. It is in this way that most clinker materials are produced, they are distinguished by high density, which provides high strength, resistance to abrasion and other types of mechanical and chemical influences.

The main feature of production, which distinguishes clinker tiles, is the technology of firing at high temperatures. Ordinary clay products are exposed to temperatures of the order of 800-900 degrees. In clinker production, furnaces are used, the operating temperature of which is 1100-1450 degrees.

It is this temperature that ensures the transition of the starting material into stronger physical states.

Manufacture and manufacturers of clinker tiles as a universal facing material

It should also be said that the main component of the cost of clinker tiles falls precisely on energy resources, the consumption of energy carriers for such firing is 4 times higher than the need for conventional processing of clay products.

Clinker production equipment

The production of high-quality clinker tiles is impossible without the use of special equipment. To provide quality, the technological line should include:

Extruder (with appropriate technology).
Forming and pressing equipment. Various designs of pressing equipment are used, most often these are vacuum, belt, lever and rotary models.
Pre-drying chambers are now mostly electric, varying in power and volume of feed material.
The main equipment for the production of clinker tiles is undoubtedly the kiln. Serious enterprises use the so-called tunnel kilns, the time when clinker was made in small kilns using coal has passed. Although such devices can be found in small private factories for the production of clinker products, this is mostly an exception.

The tunnel kiln is a structure with a length of 150 meters or more. It is equipped with a heating source, which is an open fire. Blanks of clinker elements are placed in special trolleys, which move at low speed through the furnace. Due to this, a gradual heating, burning and cooling of the clay occurs. Furnaces of this type operate in a continuous mode maintaining a constant temperature required for high-quality firing of products.

The production of clinker tiles requires significant energy costs, in addition, the delivery of material for production is also expensive due to the geography of high-quality clay deposits. All this has a significant impact on the pricing of the final product. But the increased price of clinker is more than offset by its performance, which makes its use quite popular in various areas of the construction industry.

09/11/2013 at 17:09

Making facade tiles with your own hands

Making facade tiles with your own hands is one of the options that are resorted to to save money. For this production you need:

Buy and prepare molds for tiles;
Purchase and assemble a vibrating table;
Knead the mixture for making;
Form a shape on a vibrating table;
For several days, keep the products directly in the forms;
Make the formwork of the finished tiles;
Use ready-made tiles for their intended purpose.

Do not forget that before pouring the mixture into the molds, they should be treated with an antiseptic preparation or an anti-sticking compound.

In such conditions, you can reduce the cost of the facing material, however, the facade tiles themselves are likely to be far from ideal.

Stages of manufacturing facade tiles

Career work

Work on the extraction of material, its transportation and storage.

Clinker tile making process

To increase elasticity and improve formability, the material is soaked and frozen in open air for about a year.

Treatment

For the mechanical processing of the material to be successful and efficiently, clay processing machines are used. They are needed for processing and isolating excess inclusions.

Molding

For molding, the following methods are used: casting method, semi-dry pressing, plastic molding.

Drying

Drying is carried out so that the formed facing tiles do not crack during firing and give uniform shrinkage.

Burning

The final stage is the firing process, during which the structure of the facade tiles and their technical properties are formed.

The video below shows how do-it-yourself facade tiles are made.

What is the facade tile made of?

To create facing tiles, both clay and concrete mixtures are used. For concrete mixtures, the vibrocasting method is relevant. This method makes it possible to obtain concrete tiles with a low level of porosity. This technology makes it possible to use crushed stone, sand, plasticizers, cement, pigment and standard home-made equipment: a concrete mixer and a vibration platform as raw materials.

Plastic molds are suitable for making plaster and concrete artificial stone. However, it should be remembered that you cannot make plastic molds that will absolutely repeat the natural stone, since later you will not be able to pull out gypsum or concrete stone from the plastic mold.

Forms for facade (facing) tiles.

Concrete tiles: a short tour

Forms for the production of concrete tiles

We offer plastic forms for facade tiles at the manufacturer's price. In the manufacture of forms for facing tiles, we use ABS plastic 2 mm thick. Products made in ABS molds acquire an aesthetic appearance, strength and durability, which is especially important for outdoor decoration.

Our catalog contains the most popular forms for tiles: facade stone (artificial stone) of various types, brick-like tiles, wood, sandstone and other materials. We can also manufacture products according to your individual design, of any complexity and geometry, in any volume.

Our molds for the production of tiles can withstand up to 200 concrete pours, while the manufactured products have a flawless appearance and do not require additional external processing. Strong, wear-resistant, but light and comfortable forms of facade tiles allow to speed up the production process, and the resulting high-quality product is sold more easily and costs 40-60% more.

If you want to buy forms of facade tiles, but did not find the required models in the catalog - contact us. We will advise you on our products and make the products you need.

Form for tiles No. 1
"Puzzle brick"
640x445x20 mm
4.32 plants / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 520 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 2
Facade "Sandstone"
510x480x18 mm
4.1 plants / m2
ABS 2,2 mm -450 rub / pc

Form for tiles No. 3
"Brick smooth"
500x500x18 mm
4 plants / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 450 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 4
"Large brick"
500x500x18 mm
4 plants / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 450 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 5
Facade "Old masonry"
500x500x18 mm
4 pcs / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 450 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 6
Facade "Booth"
500x500x18 mm
4 plants / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 450 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 7
Facade "Chipped Stone"
500x500x18 mm
4 plants / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 450 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 8
Facade "Chipped brick"
500x500x18 mm
4 plants / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 450 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 9
"Antique brick 1"
500x500x18 mm
4 plants / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 450 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 10
"Antique brick 2"
500x500x20 mm
4 plants / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 450 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 11
Facade "Smooth stone"
500x250x16 mm
8 plants / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 210 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 12
"Torn stone"
500x250x16 mm
8 pcs / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 240 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 13
Facade "Manhattan"
500x500x20 mm
4 pcs / m2
ABS 2,2 mm -450 rub / pc

Form for tiles No. 14
"Stone siding"
600x200x20 / 10 mm
8.3 pcs / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 400 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 15
"Brick smooth"
1000x500x18 mm
2 pcs / m2
ABS 2 mm - 650 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 16
"Brick bassoon"
1000x500x20 mm
ABS 2 mm -650 rub / pc

Form for tiles No. 17
"Smooth puzzle brick"
640x445x20 mm
4.32 pcs / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 520 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 18
"Three boards"
900x445x20 mm
2,2 pcs / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 600 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 19
"Block puzzle brick"
1125x500x40 mm
1,77 pcs / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 820 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 20
Molding for openings
500x90x50 mm
ABS 2.2 mm - 500 rubles / comp

Form for tiles No. 21
Wave
1000x500x20 mm
2 pcs / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 650 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 22
Clinker brick
1000x500x20 mm
2 pcs / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 650 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 23
Sandstone
1000x500x20 mm
2 pcs / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 650 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 24
Smooth
120x60x2 /4.5 cm
1,39 pcs / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 850 rubles / piece

Form for tiles No. 25
Smooth
60x30x2 cm
2.78 pcs / m2
ABS 2.2 mm - 450 rubles / piece

Pano Form No. 31
1020х340х25 mm
ABS plastic 2mm
Price: RUB 680 / pc

Pano Form No. 32
1020х340х25 mm
ABS plastic 2mm
Price: RUB 680 / pc

Technological features

When choosing ABS molds for facade tiles, pay attention to how the finished cladding panels will be joined. There are forms with a groove lock, which creates fewer problems when sealing joints, but adds difficulties when formworking and transporting tiles (more scrap). Rectangular ABS shapes are easier to manufacture and practically not damaged during transportation, but they require effort and time when sealing joints, since the joints have to be putty in order to give the facade of the building an aesthetic appearance.

Finished facade panels are fixed to the wall with glue and special anchors, for which some of our forms are provided with marking for holes.

Do-it-yourself paving slab production at home

The production of paving slabs using vibration casting technology is an interesting home business with little investment. This business idea has 2 main advantages: 1 good profitability, 2 an exciting production process itself (I want to work more and more).

You don't need self-motivation to overfulfill production targets. If you adhere to all the rules of technology, then the entire production process resembles a game. The tile is made so simply, quickly and beautifully that it is impossible to come off. The more you “play”, the more you earn. Probably, this is an ideal business with elements of gamification.

It does not require large expenditures, while its profitability is higher than 100%.

Paving slabs are a building material that has a stable demand and the longest period of the active sales season. After all, tiles are laid at temperatures below zero. Moreover, this business has no production waste. Defective products can be recycled. This is a very important advantage.

Organization of home production of tiles

This business idea is optimized for home business and is not difficult to implement with minimal investment. Stages of organizing a manufacturing business at home:

We do the vibrating table with our own hands (the diagram is shown below).
We also make polyurethane molds ourselves (detailed description in the business idea).
Concrete mixer for 130 liters. better to buy (this is the most expensive equipment in this business).

cement grade A-Sh-400 (you can also have a higher quality, do not save on cement!);
screening out;
pigment dye;
plasticizer C-3 liquid (you can analog or substitute, the main thing is quality);
water.

Additional tools:

bucket 10l.;
picking shovel;
trowel;
latex gloves.

To make the entire production process like a game, we need to prepare everything correctly without any compromises. Consider the basic stages of production:

Preparation of semi-dry colored concrete for vibration casting.
Vibration casting of paving slabs and curbs in molds.
Daily exposure and stripping.

Mix for the manufacture of paving slabs

Before starting work, the walls of the concrete mixer should be moistened with two buckets of water. After 2 minutes of moistening the walls of plain water, pour out all the water from the concrete mixer. This technique will allow us to better mix the semi-dry concrete mixture. In addition, the concrete will not adhere strongly to the walls of the mixer and it will be easy to clean after use.

Production stages in detail. The proportions of the components of the mixture for the manufacture of colored paving slabs and curbs.

Colored semi-dry concrete for vibratory casting. The recipe for the preparation of the composition of colored semi-dry concrete:

buckets of cement A-Sh-400;
buckets of water;
dropout buckets;
200g. pigment dye;
plasticizer in accordance with the instructions for use indicated on the canister (different manufacturers of plasticizers are diluted with different concentrations).

First, we prepare the pigment dye. It should be at least 2% by volume in the mixture in order for the color to be of really high quality. We dilute it in a separate container with water 1:10 (for 200 ml of dye, 2 liters of water). Mix thoroughly with a mixer. If the dye powder is poorly diluted with water, it will not only give a bad color, but also form clumps of shells in the structure of cast concrete products. They will have to be discarded and sent for recycling.

When preparing semi-dry colored concrete, it is very important to precisely adhere to the ratio of all components and knead them thoroughly in a concrete mixer. If there is 30% more water than the norm, then the strength of the finished product will drop 2 TIMES!

Too much colorant has a negative effect on strength. In general, the presence of a dye negatively affects the strength, therefore, colored tiles should be made in 2 layers (the top layer with a dye, and the bottom one without).

Such a technique will not only increase the strength of thin concrete products, but will also reduce the consumption of the dye by 2 TIMES! This is a significant saving because this component is the most expensive in this mixture. Such savings significantly affect the cost of paving slabs. Moreover, the color quality remains the same.

Add plasticizer for paving slabs C-3. Thanks to the plasticizer, the concrete plasticity properties, which are needed to create complex shapes, are improved at the micro level. The quality of the plasticizer is easy to check if you make a hotel test composition and increase its dose by 10 times. Then plasticine is obtained from concrete. This is a good example of what is happening at the micro-level. But the plasticizer brings several other benefits. Firstly, the tiles made with a plasticizer will dry faster and are ready for demoulding in a day (without a plasticizer in 5 days). The plasticizer also gives strength to concrete products. It is important that it is of high quality.

Pour 2 buckets of water (20 liters) into the concrete mixer. We start the concrete mixer and add 3 of the same buckets of cement. Stir until a homogeneous suspension is formed. Then add the dye prepared in advance. Then we add screenings - 4 buckets. Follow all of these tips in a sequence of actions. After all, it is very difficult to mix a semi-dry concrete mixture with high quality. Semi-dry concrete for vibratory casting - ready!

Technology for the production of thin-walled concrete products

Vibratory casting technology for paving slabs:

Lay out the polyurethane molds on the vibrating table. Polyurethane is neutral to concrete, which cannot be said about plastic. Polyurethane molds do not need to be washed (which will save 2 TIMES production cycle time!). It is more durable, and the concrete products made in it acquire a glossy effect (with a very smooth surface). You can pour polyurethane products with your own hands at home.
Semi-dry concrete is poured using a construction trowel. When all shaping containers are full, the vibrating table turns on. Under the influence of vibration, liquid is pushed out of semi-dry concrete and the concrete already acquires an elastic form (in appearance it resembles a vein). When you look at this process, it seems as if a stone is turning into water. The vibration should be continued until a milky foam begins to form in the center of each mold. This takes about 3-4 minutes. Then we turn off the vibration and, to make sure that everything is done correctly, we turn over one of the forms. Content should not fall out. This is how low liquid concrete compresses. Accordingly, the strength of such a concrete product is very high.
Paving slabs should be placed in an area protected from moisture and sun for grasping and drying. In a day, she is ready for demoulding.

After removing the formwork, we wipe the container and repeat this creative process in a repeated cycle.

DIY vibrating table

We make a working vibrating table for the production of paving slabs and other thin-walled concrete products using vibration casting technology. For this we need:

A sheet of metal with a thickness of 5mm and dimensions of 1.5m. x 1m. for the manufacture of countertops.
Squares with a thickness of 3mm, side dimensions 5cm x 5cm.
Springs - 4 pcs. with an outer diameter of 5cm and an inner diameter of 4.5cm. The coil pitch is approximately the same as that of motorcycle shock springs. But the height of the springs is no more than 8 cm.
Pipe lengths - 4 pcs. to create bowls for springs. Their dimensions: inner diameter - 5.2 cm, height - 3-4 cm.
Electro-emery with a capacity of 1 kW. with two white emery stones (stone diameter 10-15 cm., thickness 2-3 cm.) on the through shaft and with protective covers.
Galvanized sheet (10cm x 50cm) and two large bolts with pot caps (diameter 10mm, length 10cm with fine thread, step 1) to attach the emery to the table.
Two counterweights (diameter 12cm, thickness 2cm). They should be secured to the through-shaft of emery and covered with protective covers.
Toggle switch, cable and plug.

We assemble all the parts into a whole device, as shown in the schematic drawing. 2 holes are drilled in the center of the worktop for fixing on the underside of the electric motor with counterweights. From the bottom, with the help of a welding machine, cups are welded at four corners opposite the table legs. The lower part of the table is made from the squares - the legs, which are interconnected for strength. Springs are attached to the legs, on which cups with a table top are mounted.

Making and laying facade tiles with your own hands: step by step instructions

From the underside of the table, using a galvanized sheet (which plays the role of a clamp), a 1 kW electric wire is screwed on. It also creates vibration by rotating the weight with an offset center. The further from the center, the stronger the vibration.

A homemade vibrating table is several times cheaper than a factory one. But its capabilities are quite enough for home production.

When loading the table with molds with concrete, it is important not to overload it and take into account that the less weight is on the table, the higher the vibration. The vibration level should be such that the concrete in the molds does not bounce off the walls.

Attention! The vibration weight must be securely attached to the emery shaft. Safety comes first!

Too much or little vibration will negatively affect the quality of the products. There will be especially low vibration in the center of a homemade table. Whereas in places where springs are installed, vibration can be increased due to accumulation. Therefore, a homemade vibrating table should not be loaded on 100% of the surface. When unfolding the forms, do not put them in the center and in the corners. Thus, the table will be loaded by about 70%, and the vibration in the molds will be even.

Most importantly, do not forget to follow safety precautions!

DIY molds for paving slabs

Polyurethane molds have a number of advantages over plastic.

Polyurethane is absolutely neutral to concrete. This eliminates the need for a lubricant for plastic molds. But the main advantage of polyurethane molds is the elimination of the laborious process, such as washing each dish.

Regular plastic containers should be washed every time before vibrating. This takes up the largest part of the work time. In home production, washing plastic molds will reduce productivity by 2 TIMES! Polyurethane molds only need to be wiped with a slightly damp cloth.

To pour out the mold itself from polyurethane, you must:

a collapsible box that will play the role of formwork;
finished concrete product (tiles, curbs, ebb, etc.);
release agent that is neutral to polyurethane;
components A and B for the preparation of the polyurethane itself.

Step-by-step description of cold casting of polyurethane molds at home:

Preparation of a product that will act as a reference model for the form. Wipe and dry thoroughly the sample model and the formwork. Then evenly apply the release agent with a brush to the surface of the model and the formwork. The layer of the release agent should be so thin that it is possible to transfer the structure of the decorative pattern to the shape (for complex patterns, the separator can be heated with a hairdryer after application to increase the efficiency of the transfer of the relief). Then let the grease dry for about 10 minutes.
Preparation of liquid polyurethane before mold casting. On an electronic laboratory balance we weigh the components (polyol part A) and (isocyanate part B) for mixing in a 1: 1 ratio. The temperature of the components should be at room temperature plus 21-24 degrees. When mixing, it is better to use the same volume of dishes with the components. For 2 to 4 minutes, mix with a mixer at medium speed, rotating counterclockwise to prevent the formation of air bubbles.
Filling the formwork with liquid polyurethane. After mixing, we have no more than 10 minutes to properly fill the formwork while the "lifetime" of the compound continues (the process of transition from a liquid state to a gel-like state). Advice: it is better to pour from one corner so that the polyurethane evenly covers the surface of the sample model like a volcanic lava flow until it is filled to the required level in the formwork.
Stripping. After casting, the product should not be disturbed throughout the day. And after 24 hours, the stripping must be done very carefully so as not to damage the still fresh form. The resulting mold can be used no earlier than 4 days later, so that the mold gains its maximum strength and lasts several hundred shaping cycles.

Advantages of curly paving elements

Paving slabs are the most rational coverage for territories for a number of main reasons:

Mobility. The tiles can be removed and moved to another location. Can be replaced in parts if damaged during operation. For example, the appearance of greasy stains from car oil, etc.
Health safety. The tiles do not emit a toxic odor in the heat like asphalt.
Strength. Plants do not penetrate the tiles as in asphalt. It does not crack under the influence of temperature extremes like concrete casting.
Aesthetics and beauty. Thanks to creative ideas, a whole technology has been created in landscape design FEM (curly paving elements). Whole masterpieces can be paved with different colors and shapes of thin-walled concrete products.
Affordable price per square meter.

There are many other minor advantages in the FEM coating (water absorption between joints, high-quality distribution of the load on the surface, etc.). The list can be continued. But even this is enough to assess the benefits of this building material and its demand in the construction market in the long term.