How to make a potbelly stove in the country. Long burning potbelly stove: a simple design for making by hand

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The first launch of the stove

The gate valve allows you to control the draft in the stove, thereby affecting the fuel consumption and temperature.

Installation is complete - you can perform the first launch. To do this, put a small amount of wood chips and paper inside, light a fire. Next, we put a small amount of firewood and wait for the stove to warm up. The firewood must be dry (no more than 15-20% moisture), otherwise the soot from them will quickly contaminate the entire stove and chimney. We make sure that the smoke regularly goes into the chimney, add more firewood, close the firebox door and open the ash pan door (it works like a blower).

After 20-30 minutes, the temperature will rise to a comfortable level. To save fuel, close the blower - the flame will die out. This achieves temperature control. You can also retrofit the chimney with a gate damper.

Assembling a stove-stove from a pipe

In this case, you cannot do without a welding machine. The function of the base of the structure will be performed by a segment of an ordinary metal pipe. Even an old barrel will do. The assembly will be carried out according to the scheme you are already familiar with. Make a grate from the bars and fasten it to the body. The connection is made by welding ... This potbelly stove will have 2 dampers at once: a blower and a firebox. The model can be successfully used both for heating various rooms and for preparing a variety of food.

Assembling a stove-stove from a pipe

Potbelly stoves are appreciated precisely because they are able to warm up the room in the shortest possible time. But at the same time, there is also the main disadvantage of such stoves is that after stopping combustion, they cool down as quickly as they heat up... Metal practically does not accumulate heat.

To eliminate the above disadvantage, it is enough to impose a home-made potbelly stove with refractory bricks

To eliminate the above disadvantage, it is enough to impose a home-made potbelly stove with refractory bricks. It accumulates heat well and continues to give it off to the surrounding space for a long time after the stove is finished. However, in order for the room to warm up, the stove will have to be heated longer than without such a brick fence. But this drawback can be easily eliminated. You just need to make a few ventilation holes in the brick screen. Such systems are often used in saunas.

The brick screen is laid out at some distance from the walls of the unit. This is a very important point. When choosing a suitable distance, one should be guided by the area of the heated room and the dimensions of the oven itself.

The potbelly stove, fenced with a brick screen, will use fuel as efficiently as possible and heat the room with high quality for a very long time.

Basic models of homemade stoves

According to its principles, the potbelly stove is practically no different from the models of a special solid-fuel device. This is a specific variation of a very simple stove in the fireplace category. There are also special models that are equipped with cooking hobs and special bath devices.

The material used to make the stove
Often a potbelly stove is made of high quality steel, but in some cases cast iron can be used. For different types of metal, elements made of natural stone are often used. If cast iron is used, then you should count on low heat capacity parameters, it is very difficult to find it and it is not easy to cook it. For this reason, many people prefer steel, it is much easier to work with. Moreover, the thicker the material, the longer it will last. If you plan to make a device for rare use, for example, for emergencies with a heating system, then make it from simple iron, whose thickness is 1 mm.
In the process of making the furnace, all the fittings may well be used from the factory. This applies to elements such as grates, necessary doors, burners and latches. Many craftsmen make them with their own hands using steel.

Shape and material for the body
If you want to make a potbelly stove using drawings or photos, you must use the method of cutting a metal sheet.

In addition, elements such as:
Molded profiles;
Square tube;
Special corners;
Armature;
Rod.

All this is required to make a rectangular oven body. Due to the presence of special planes, the case will be distinguished by ideal ergonomic properties. In other words, the potbelly stove will be as stable as possible, it is easy to handle and veneer. The stove can be easily and simply docked with a variety of structures, objects and details.

As a basis, various cabinet products and boxes made of metal can be used. Often these are elements of a cylindrical shape, for example, large-diameter pipes, cans, gas cylinders.

In the process of making a furnace with your own hands, you will definitely need to use welding

If the metal is not very thick, the furnace can be made using bolts, screws and a drill. Regardless of the model chosen, it is important to use drawings in the basis of manufacturing, because despite the relative simplicity, it is required to follow certain instructions for the implementation of the heating means.

DIY making

There are many different variations of garage ovens, which can be quite simply constructed on your own from the materials available.

The most popular and popular model of a potbelly stove is a stove made from a metal barrel. This is an extremely simple design, which is a barrel on legs with a door. Such an oven is quite well suited for waste disposal. The main advantage of such a furnace is its simple manufacture. But such a potbelly stove has several disadvantages.

The walls of the barrel are thin, and it is unlikely that it will be able to serve for a long time, since the walls can quickly burn out. Also, the disadvantage is the bulkiness of such a structure, which will take up a lot of space in the room.

You can make a stove from a metal can. There is even less work here, since the can already has a door that can be used without modification.

Another popular option for making a potbelly stove is a gas cylinder. Such cylinders have a fairly good level of heat capacity and thick walls, allowing the furnace to serve for a long time. It must be remembered that the gas cylinder must be prepared in accordance with fire safety rules before proceeding with the manufacture of a stove

It is extremely important to remember that such a cylinder may contain the remainder of explosive vapors.

For fire safety purposes, it is strongly recommended to fill this container with water and leave it overnight.

When doing this oven with your own hands from a cylinder, it is worth weld the blowing system to it in the lower part, and in the cylinder itself, drill several holes that are connected to this system.

Let us consider in more detail the stages of making a furnace from a gas cylinder.

When using a potbelly stove in a garage, it is extremely important to follow fire safety rules. Therefore, it is necessary to choose the right place for installing the oven. To put the stove, a garage corner is very suitable, which is located near the walls opposite to the door of the room.

First step. It is best to make a preliminary drawing and calculate the dimensions of the future product. But such a furnace is quite simple to manufacture, you can do without it. Next, it is worth making markings on the product. Using a felt-tip pen, the contours of the future doors, blower and combustion system are applied to the cylinder body. The compartment with the firebox will be located approximately in the center of the structure, and the blower will be placed at the bottom. The distance between them should not exceed 100 mm. Next, a marker draws a solid line in the center between the doors, and then you should cut the balloon along the marked line using a grinder.

Second phase. It is necessary to take iron rods with a diameter of about 14-16 mm. Then weld a lattice from them and fix the resulting structure by welding to the bottom of the cylinder. And then the cylinder is welded again into one structure.
Stage three. It is necessary to cut the holes for the combustion compartment and the holes with the pressurization, and then the doors are attached to them with hinges.

Stage four. At the final stage, it is worthwhile to work hard on the installation of the chimney, since this is a very important part of the stove device. For these purposes, using a grinder, you need to cut off the valve on the cylinder, welding in its place a long metal pipe with a diameter of 9-10 cm. The chimney itself should be taken out of the garage through a hole in the wall or onto the roof. It is not necessary to connect the chimney with the general hood of the room, because its draft may not be enough, ventilation will not cope, and carbon monoxide will penetrate into the garage.

And this is all pretty simple instructions for making a stove-stove on your own from an ordinary gas cylinder.

Also, at the end of this work, an additional heat-resistant compound can be applied to the furnace.

If a potbelly stove is used for heating or cooking, it is very important to follow the rules of its operation. Their implementation, in addition to fire safety, will help to increase its service life.

Before the first kindling of the stove, it is imperative to check and make sure that all connections and assemblies are tight, immediately correct all imperfections in order to avoid the penetration of combustion products and carbon monoxide into the garage.
For certain reasons, the chimney must be brought out. The part of it inside the garage space must be sealed.
It is strictly forbidden to discharge the chimney into the ventilation system. Even if the stove is installed in a basement, it must have a separate chimney.
Passages of the wall or ceiling of the flue pipe must be insulated with refractory, non-fire-hazardous materials.

A sand box and a fire extinguisher must be kept in the garage, in accordance with fire safety regulations.
A stove-stove is also used as a stove and for boiling water. To do this, a hob with burners is installed on it (usually it is made of a cast-iron stove) or a tank for heating water.
The stove-stove heats up quickly, but also cools down quickly. This disadvantage can be partially compensated for by a brick screen that accumulates heat and returns it to the room as it cools down after the potbelly stove goes out.

Direct contact between the screen and the stove is prohibited. The gap between them is left at least 10 cm.

Typically, a brick screen is heavy, so it will most likely need its own foundation. Consider the stages of its manufacture.
1. Dig a hole about 50 cm deep.
2. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand (average consumption of sand 3-4 buckets), tamped.
3. The next layer is 10-15 cm of crushed stone, which is also tamped.
4. The laid layers are leveled, then poured with a layer of cement mortar.
5. A complete hardening of the cement layer is expected. The longer the hardening time, the better (usually the period of time is more than a day or longer, this will give the foundation additional strength).
6. Then several layers of roofing material are laid.
7. The screen itself is laid out in half a brick, the initial two rows are made with continuous masonry on roofing material. In rows 3-4, it is necessary to make ventilation gaps, then again continue to lay the brick in a continuous layer.

The correct methods of cleaning a stove stove mainly boil down to removing dirt inside the chimney, which is relatively rare. Mostly they use a brush. It is quite possible to make it with your own hands from a cylinder-shaped brush, tying it to a rope.

It is best to use brushes with plastic or iron wire bristles. The diameter of the brush is selected in such a way that there is no significant resistance when passing through the chimney.

Cleaning is used in order to increase the passage of the smoke flow through the pipe, to improve heat transfer. The sequence of the cleaning process:

plug the furnace hole with a rag;
make 2-3 careful movements with a brush so as not to break the tightness of the chimney (make stops if the brush moves freely);
repeat step 2 the required number of times;
remove coals, ash and soot from the ash pan.

For information on how to install a potbelly stove in a garage, see the next video.

Making a rectangular stove

What do they not make of burzhuekas! The imagination of folk craftsmen is not limited. But for those who have never undertaken such a design, it is worth starting with a more simplified version - a rectangular potbelly stove. This is the most popular model, which, moreover, is quite easy to assemble.

In order to make a potbelly stove yourself, you will need to prepare the following material and tools:

plan drawing - the dimensions of each element are noted in it;
metal sheets - their number depends on the desired size of the stove, the main thing is that the material is not thinner than 4 mm;
steel corners;
metal pipe (30 mm);
pipe (180 mm);
welding machine.

To create such a variant, you will need to do the following:

The metal sheets must first be cleaned and degreased, otherwise the welding machine will not be able to reliably join them. To do this, you can use an ordinary soap solution or special cleaning agents.
On a sheet of metal that will serve as the front part, it is necessary to cut two holes - one will serve to collect ash, and the other as a firebox door. The size of the door should be 3-4 cm less than the width of the future potbelly stove. As for the height of the location, it is usually made 1/3 lower than the top edge. Do not forget that there will be another rectangular hole for the ash pan at the bottom. It is desirable to separate them.
To make the door, you need a slightly larger metal than the resulting window. Steel hinges can be used to connect two elements. There must be a handle on the door that will allow you to open and close the stove.
Now the metal sheets are welded together to form a rectangular box. It is worth starting with the side walls, which are fixed to the bottom. To control the vertical and horizontal direction, it is worth using a building level during such work. Next, the back wall is welded. The internal space is divided into three parts - a chimney, a firebox and an ash pan. A grate is installed between the last two parts. On the side walls 10-15 cm are measured and the corners are welded to the entire valley. Pre-prepared strips of the same sheet steel with a width of 2.5-3 cm are fixed to them.As for the length, then you need to focus on the available dimensions of the potbelly stove. Distance - 5cm. all elements are welded to two rods. Here you need to do this work as efficiently as possible, since such strips additionally perform the function of stiffeners.

The grate itself should not be welded to the walls, because when you need to clean or replace any element in the stove, you will have to disassemble the entire structure. And that's enough and just pull out the grate.

Now you need to fix two metal rods in the upper part of the side walls. They will support the reflector. It is positioned in such a way that there is a channel in front through which the smoke will leave the potbelly stove. The reflector has to withstand the highest temperatures. Therefore, for its manufacture, it is better to choose a metal with a thickness of 1.5 cm.

Now you can proceed to the top cover. Here it is better to make a hole in advance for the future chimney. Next, a jumper is cut and welded. You will need to make it even narrower, which is placed at the level of the grate. It is she who will separate the grill and ash pan door.
Now handles for doors, latches and curtains are welded. As for the latter elements, for reliability it is worth using a thick rod and a steel pipe.

As soon as the structure is ready, it is installed on the legs. For such purposes, a metal pipe (diameter 8-10 cm) is perfect, which is cut into pieces of 2-4 cm.On each end, a nut with a screwed-in bolt is welded. This will provide reliable stability.
The last stage is the arrangement of the chimney. Here you need a pipe 15-18 cm in diameter. If we talk about the length, then it should be enough to bring the chimney outside. Therefore, in order to avoid overspending of material, it is worth considering the location of the stove. Since the chimney implies bends, each such angle should be equal to 45 degrees. A rotary damper is provided at the lower end. The chimney itself is placed on a sleeve 15-20 cm high. For this purpose, use a product with a diameter smaller than the main pipe. For connection, cooking is used.

After the product is ready, it can be installed and started to operate.

Principle of operation

Let's take a closer look at the scheme of work of a home-made potbelly stove:

combustion air is supplied to the furnace through the blower;
in the process of combustion, heat is released, which heats the bricks and walls of the furnace;
smoke, soot and combustion products are drawn out through the chimney;
combustion regulation with obtaining the necessary heat transfer is carried out by increasing / decreasing the open gap of the blower door;
a potbelly stove is heated using various types of both liquid and solid fuels (firewood, mining, diesel fuel, coal, peat).

Potbelly stove on working off

The potbelly stove, which is fueled not by wood, but by waste oil, has its own characteristics. It can be both a small stove for an ordinary garage, and a device designed to heat large areas. In any case, all models work according to the same principle and have similar designs and operating principles.

The potbelly stove has 2 parts. Used oil is charged in the lower part, where it is ignited and brought to a boil.
Vapors are drawn through a perforated pipe for oxygen access, where their initial afterburning takes place.
The vapors are completely oxidized and burned in the upper part connected to the chimney.
The temperature in the lower tank is relatively low, the upper chamber heats up to the maximum, heating the room. Its walls can even glow from the heat. Accordingly, this affects the choice of material for the manufacture of cameras.

A schematic drawing of a potbelly stove for mining with conventional dimensions and proportions.

Consider the merits of the burzhuykas for mining.

Unpretentiousness and "independence". It is not necessary to constantly add firewood or perform any actions, the main requirement is the correct adjustment of the filler neck gap (10-15 mm).
Effective heat dissipation.
No soot from the chimney, the stove does not smoke.
Relative fire safety, since fuel waste is hardly flammable, and only oil vapors burn.

Disadvantages:

noisiness;
a characteristic odor (sometimes they get rid of it by installing a water circuit or an air heat exchanger with a blower fan, which directs part of the air from the chimney to another room for heating);
the combustion chamber (connecting pipe with perforation) and the chimney have to be cleaned quite often;
the coke layer of burnt oil in the lower chamber is also quite problematic to remove.

When using a stove-stove with waste fuel, it is necessary to adhere to the mandatory rules.

It is not allowed to use oil processing with gasoline or other combustible impurities.
Filtration of working off from solid particles is obligatory.
Do not allow water to enter the mining.
Strong drafts are not allowed.
Compliance with all fire safety rules when installing the stove in the room.
Compulsory availability of reliable ventilation.

It is strictly forbidden to leave the stove unattended, to sleep when the stove is working.
Do not use water for extinguishing!
Horizontal chimney exhaust sections are prohibited. The admissible angle of inclination of the chimney is 45 °.
The chimney must have a length of 4 to 7 m.
It is recommended to pour mining into the furnace at a height of less than? the volume of the lower chamber.
It is necessary to have a dry powder fire extinguisher and / or sand in the immediate vicinity of such a furnace.

How to drown a potbelly stove

The bourgeois who invented the potbelly stove knew how to work not only with their heads, but also with their hands in the laboratory. Therefore, in order for their stove to show all its advantages, it is necessary to determine the minimum and maximum filling of each type of fuel. The heat from the overfed / underfed potbelly stove will fly out into the pipe due to the fact that circulation does not form in the firebox. In the first case, the excess of gases simply will not leave room for it, and in the second there will not be enough gases themselves.

Fortunately, the potbelly stove is also unpretentious here: the range of fuel mass at which the efficiency is maintained is very wide. You can immediately define it like this:

Preparing a bucket of fuel.
We literally lay a handful, fire up.
We put in a little until the beginning of the hog glows cherry.
Let's see how much is taken from the bucket, this is the minimum bookmark.
We add more, in larger portions, until 1 / 5-1 / 6 of the far part of the hog remains dark.
Let's see how many have been selected now, this is the maximum tab.

Note: it is necessary to determine on a cloudy winter day or in weak diffused lighting of the same strength.

On high-quality fuel (anthracite, pellets), the hog can be heated in a ring that changes in width and “walks” along its length. In this case, several fireboxes are required to determine the volume / mass of the tabs. As the fuel burns out, the ring will narrow and move towards the beginning of the hog. At the maximum tab, it at the beginning of the firebox will take up to a third of its length at the far end, and at the minimum it will appear in the middle of it and will be 3-4 palms wide.

Video: potbelly stove in garage heating

Option from a wood-fired receiver tank

The receiver tank is perfect for making a furnace. The door for loading firewood can be omitted. A hatch cover opens from above, through which firewood will be loaded. It is equipped with a handle for ease of use. An ash intake hole is cut out at the bottom. We advise you to study in more detail the scheme of a wood-burning stove and find answers to your questions.

This is what the water receiver tank looks like.

This option is not difficult to manufacture, but requires caution in use. The disadvantage of this model is the inconvenience of cleaning the ash pan

But for use in the garage or in the country, this is a great option.

The tank sections are separated by a homemade grate, which can even be made from fittings

Alternatively, a small potbelly stove with your own hands is made from sheets of steel. Below is a drawing of a simple pre-fabricated steel plate stove. The figure contains all dimensions. Two baffles will allow to extract the maximum efficiency from the fuel, because, thanks to the labyrinth inside the chamber, the combustion products slowly leave it. We advise you to also explore brickwork in addition to this article.

Sheet metal can be used to shape and size the stove

The thickness of the metal sheets must be at least 4 mm. The grate can be a metal plate with drilled holes or even fittings.

The housing can be clipped into a 2 mm steel casing. This will avoid the following problems:

the hot surface of the stove will not cause burns or accidental fire;
the amount of infrared radiation will decrease several times;
an air gap between the casing and the surface of the stove will allow it to heat up evenly and heat the room better.

Potbelly stove in the garage pros and cons

Car enthusiasts install a homemade stove in the garage for several reasons:

the stove heats the room in winter;
on a stove, you can cook food or warm up a kettle;
a home-made heater, with a design approach, can become a decoration of the garage.

The stove-stove has a number of advantages in comparison with other heating devices:

For kindling, you can use a variety of fuels - firewood, coal, construction waste, oil products, waste oil, etc.
The main advantage of a potbelly stove is the speed of heating the room. Due to its high efficiency and power, the stove will heat up a garage with an area of 50-60 sq. m. in 15-20 minutes.
The stove distributes heat evenly no matter where it is located.
The potbelly stove is an economical heating device. For example, heating a garage with a potbelly stove will cost several times less than with an electric heater.
An additional advantage of a potbelly stove in the garage is the ability to cook or warm up food. When creating a stove yourself, it is enough to fix a metal hob on its upper part.
A homemade stove will cost a car enthusiast almost free if an unnecessary barrel, sheet of metal and a pipe are lying around in the garage.

Earlier we already wrote an article about installing a stove for heating and recommended adding it to your bookmarks.

The stove stove will harmoniously fit into the interior of any garage. In addition to the heating function, the heater has a “cooking mode”. A hob is installed in the upper part of the stove, where you can warm up the kettle or cook food.

The disadvantages of a potbelly stove in the garage are:

the need for a chimney in the garage;
periodic cleaning of the chimney;
the need for constant fuel supply;
inability to accumulate heat.

Readers find these materials useful:

Making a miracle stove for heating with your own hands: features of the furnace from a cylinder

Potbelly stove on waste oil products

The waste oil furnace is a device consisting of two chambers. In the first, oil burns, and in the second, the gases formed together with air.

Advice! Petroleum engine oil, diesel fuel, diesel fuel, kerosene, fuel oil, transformer or transmission oils are often used as fuel. Under no circumstances should acetone and gasoline solvents be burned.

What does such a potbelly stove look like on waste oil and its main components

To cook such a furnace, the master will need no more than 2-3 hours. It is made from the following materials:

chimney pipe;
fuel tank / finished metal box;
sheet metal.

Video: review of a stove stove for a garage

Of the tools you will need:

welding machine;
Bulgarian;
chisel;
sledgehammer;
tape measure, marker / chalk;
hammer;
puncher;
rivets.

Drawing of a potbelly stove "on working off". The figure shows two sections, in the first, oil is supplied and burned, in the second - the combustion of gases together with air.

To make such a stove with your own hands, you should proceed in stages:

First, they make a drawing of a potbelly stove for a garage. In the figure, all parts and workpieces with dimensions are schematically marked.
A ready-made tank or metal box with a cut-out hole for fuel supply is used as a fuel compartment. Legs are attached to the tank using a welding machine.
The upper section is made in the form of an elongated cylinder. It is connected to the lower chamber using a pipe. To do this, cut a small round opening in the box. All joints are checked for tightness. Holes (10 mm in diameter) are made in the pipe for secondary air to enter the channel.
The chimney is made in the upper part of the structure at an angle at a height of several meters.
The upper surface of the stove can be used as a "cooking stove". This is the hottest place in the oven.
To light the stove, several liters of "working off" are poured into the chamber, a little heating oil is added, paper is put and set on fire. Add oil in small portions as needed.

Read the article on the construction of a mini-stove and find the answers to your questions.

Advice! To make the stove last several years longer, a three-millimeter steel sheet is attached to the upper platform.

A waste oil potbelly stove is made from a metal box or tank. The upper chamber must be cylindrical.

The following publications will perfectly complement this material:

Review of heating stoves thermophore for home and baths - the best from Siberia

Calculation of basic parameters with drawings and dimensions

The high efficiency of a stove-stove can be obtained only if all the basic parameters of the structure are correctly calculated.

Pipe

In this case, the diameter of this element is very important. The throughput of the chimney should be less than the capacity of the furnace, which is the main distinguishing feature of the potbelly stove. This will allow warm air not to immediately leave the stove, but to linger in it and heat the surrounding air.

It is very important to make an accurate calculation for it. The diameter should be 2.7 times the volume of the furnace

In this case, the diameter is determined in millimeters, and the volume of the furnace in liters. For example, the volume of the combustion part is 40 liters, which means that the diameter of the chimney should be about 106 mm.

If the installation of grate is provided in the stove, then the height of the firebox is considered without taking into account the volume of this part, that is, from the top of the grate.

Screen

It is very important to make the hot gases not cool down, but completely burn out. In addition, the fuel must be combusted by partial pyrolysis, which requires an extremely high temperature. A metal screen, which is located on three sides of the stove, will help to achieve this effect. It should be placed at a distance of 50–70 mm from the walls of the stove, so that most of the heat will return to the stove. This movement of air will provide the required high temperature, and will save you from fire.

Red brick stove screen is able to accumulate heat

Litter

It must be there. There are two reasons for this:

some of the heat is radiated downward;
the floor on which the stove is standing heats up, which means there is a risk of fire.

Litter solves both of these problems at once. It can be used as a metal sheet with an offset of 350 mm (ideally 600 mm) beyond the contour of the furnace itself. There are also more modern materials that do an excellent job with this task, for example, a sheet of asbestos or kaolin cardboard, at least 6 mm thick.

For the litter under the stove, you can use an asbestos sheet

Chimney

Despite all the calculations, gases sometimes go into the chimney not completely burned out. Therefore, it must be done in a special way. The chimney consists of:

the vertical part (1–1.2 m), which is recommended to be wrapped with heat-insulating material;
hog (slightly inclined part or completely horizontal), 2.5–4.5 m long, which should be 1.2 m from the ceiling, which is not protected by heat-resistant materials (1.5 m from the wooden surface), from the floor - by 2.2 m.

The chimney must be brought out into the street

Photo gallery: diagrams of a potbelly stove device for a garage

On the diagram, you need to indicate all the exact measurements.

The chimney must be brought out to the street

The potbelly stove can be round or square

The volume of the furnace depends on the presence of grates. The scheme of the stove depends on the material used

Assembling a potbelly stove

The installation of a stove begins with its purchase or self-assembly

When choosing a purchase option, pay attention to the Soviet-style cast-iron model.

They began to be produced in 1955 and are still stored in army warehouses. We will not delve into where they came from for sale. But let's say that these are excellent ovens. Judge for yourself:

The cast-iron potbelly stove has a very impressive appearance and, due to its thickness, can serve for more than a dozen years.

Thermal power - about 4-5 kW, which is enough to heat a garage up to 40 sq. m;
Reliable cast iron - its thickness is 10 mm;
Soviet assembly - here comments are superfluous, then they knew how to do quality things;
Omnivorous - works on coal, wood, sawdust;
Suitable for installing a cauldron instead of the top cover.

The cost of the unit is in the range of 4-5 thousand rubles. The thing is really cool, but hellishly heavy, its weight is about 60 kg.

You can also assemble a potbelly stove for the garage yourself. For example, according to this scheme:

The assembly diagram of one of the simplest and nevertheless quite effective and reliable stoves.

It is assembled from sheet steel. The recommended thickness is 4-5 mm. This is enough to keep the steel from burning out in the next few years. The statement is most relevant when using coal that burns at a higher temperature. For assembly, you need to cut the metal on a machine or using a powerful grinder. Legs can be made, or you can not do it - in this case, the stove is installed on a stone base.

To assemble the furnace, additional materials will be needed - this is a metal pipe, doors and fittings for assembling the grate. The pipe is necessary to create a chimney - the chimney is connected to it. You need two doors - one large, the second small. The large one is welded in front of the combustion chamber (firebox), the small one is welded between the bottom and the grate. If you are making feet for floor installation, use sturdy metal corners or reinforcement with a thickness of at least 15 mm.

The chimney diameter according to this scheme is 100 mm - this is quite enough (for this drawing). The potbelly stove is assembled using a welding machine. Special attention is paid to the welds so that they can withstand heating and do not let smoke into the garage itself. When assembling the body, do not forget to install the grate and chimneys.

Smoke turns improve heat transfer and are a backlog for pyrolysis combustion - in this case, a pipe for supplying secondary air is welded into the back wall above the level of the first turn.

Potbelly stove from a barrel

This option is suitable for those who are not particularly concerned with aesthetics, but only require warmth. This option is suitable not only for drums, but also for very large diameter pipes.

In order to get such a stove, you need to follow these steps:

from the outside, two rectangular holes are cut out - the entrance to the combustion compartment and the ash pan;
"Extra" pieces of the barrel are framed with strips of metal and equipped with a handle with a latch - in the future, these will be doors;

10 cm down from the furnace hole, corner brackets are welded on the inside of the barrel, on top of which the grate is laid (purchased separately or made independently);
from the outside, the legs are welded to the bottom - for this you can use pipes or metal corners;
further, near the holes and on the doors, hinges are attached and the elements are connected;
it is recommended to clean up all the seams at the end so that the stove looks more neat and less traumatic;
as soon as everything is ready, the device can be connected to the chimney, which is taken out into the street in advance.

This method of making a potbelly stove is great for a pipe. Only after the grate is installed, do not forget to weld the bottom of the pipe and the upper part. And so nothing complicated!

In fact, there are many options for how you can make a potbelly stove with your own hands. Sometimes craftsmen come up with such masterpieces that store design devices simply cannot even stand nearby. But you need to chase not for beauty and originality, but for safety. Indeed, during the operation of the stove, carbon monoxide gases will be released, which can even poison a person. Therefore, working in a room heated by such a device, every 30-40 minutes you need to go out into the fresh air and ventilate the space.

Varieties of cast iron stoves

A cast-iron potbelly stove for a summer residence is the simplest option for heating a country house. But when you start choosing a stove, your eyes start to scatter. There are dozens and hundreds of types of cast iron stoves on sale. Therefore, now we will try to understand all this diversity.

Differences in shape and design

Cast iron stoves for country houses are made in a variety of form factors. For example, they can be rectangular or barrel-shaped. Some units have horizontally elongated housings, while others vertically. The choice of a suitable option is carried out depending on the operating conditions - if there is free space, you can do with the horizontal option. If there is not enough space in the country, it is better to take a closer look at the vertical unit.

There are also design differences. We have already said that cast iron stoves are extremely simple. But many people don't like this simplicity. Especially for such people, designer stoves with beautiful bodies with monograms and drawings were created. They look really impressive, so they will be a worthy decoration for your interior.

Loading door

People often go to the dacha for rest - they want to take a break from the bustle of the city and be in silence

Therefore, they pay special attention to the arrangement of their country houses. In order to make the country interior more interesting and comfortable, you can decorate it with a cast-iron stove with a fireplace door

In most cases, the doors are made blind - they serve exclusively for loading fuel. In some models, they play not only the main, but also a decorative role.

Choosing a cast-iron stove with a fireplace door, make sure that it is equipped with a "clean glass" system. Otherwise, you will have to constantly clean the glass in your oven from soot.

Hob

When equipping their dacha, people often build one-room houses, dispensing with kitchen facilities. Cooking under these conditions is difficult. But if you buy a cast-iron stove-stove with a hob, then the problem will be solved - at least during the heating season, when it is cold outside. You can put a kettle or a pot of soup here, you can even cook something in a frying pan.

The hob is a great addition to cast iron stoves. But you need to be careful. The fact is that if you accidentally spill cold water on cast iron, the stove can burst. When heated, cast iron becomes more brittle, so strong shocks and sudden temperature changes lead to its destruction.

Pyrolysis ovens

A cast-iron stove-potbelly stove for a summer residence can operate using pyrolysis technology. This scheme allows you to slightly increase heat transfer and efficiency. Firewood is burned here in an oxygen-poor atmosphere, emitting pyrolysis products, which are burned in the afterburner. The design of such cast-iron stoves is more complex, but it can increase the efficiency by about 5-10%. An additional plus is the increase in the duration of the burning of the cast iron stove.

Long-term combustion in cast-iron stoves like a potbelly stove is realized in another way - with the help of large combustion chambers. The larger the chamber, the more firewood will fit into it. And 10-12 kg of firewood will burn obviously longer than the unfortunate 1.5-2 kg. Thanks to this, the operation of the stoves is greatly facilitated - this is most important at night, when you want to sleep, and not deal with laying firewood.

Safe operation

Homemade products are always dangerous in that during their construction, a person may lose sight of any details that seem insignificant to him. But in fact, it is they who will be responsible for the injury hazard of the final product. The same applies to do-it-yourself stoves.

In order for the home stove to bring only warmth, you should pay attention to the following points:

the stove should stand on a refractory surface - tiles, brickwork, a metal sheet of good thickness, etc.;

if the stove is near the walls, then it is also recommended to secure them - for such purposes, you can use the same tiles, fireproof drywall or any other material that is not afraid of contact with high temperatures;
there should be no flammable materials or substances near the device - the maximum allowable distance is not closer than 1.5 meters (firefighters generally recommend not to keep such objects in the room);
since the potbelly stove was assembled on its own, it is not safe from the production of harmful substances, therefore, there must be good ventilation in the room (both artificial and natural);
in the manufacture of a product, it is better to choose only high-quality material - at least, such a product will last longer, and as a maximum, it will not bring any harm to its owner.

The service life and quality of heat directly depends on how a person approached this issue. Therefore, it is better to spend a little money, especially since a couple of sheets of metal will definitely come out cheaper than a full-fledged heater. But the room will be warm and cozy.

Making a potbelly stove is half the battle. We still need to enjoy using it. It would seem that it’s difficult - I threw the wood and basked. But not everything is as simple as it might seem at first glance.

Why are finished devices more expensive? Because the assembly engineers have provided all the amenities. To make a homemade stove also enjoyable, you should think about the following points:

protection - during fuel filling, old coals can fall out, which is quite traumatic, therefore, a small grid must be built in front of the combustion chamber;
since the stove gets hot, it should be slightly insulated from the outside, or at least insulate the approximate surfaces - this will reduce the risk of fire;

it is advisable to cover the potbelly stove with heat-resistant paint or anti-corrosion coating - this way the product will last much longer;
it is worth attaching handles to the case, since during the combustion of fuel, the walls of the device will be very hot;
you definitely need a traction adjuster through the wheels - this makes the work of the stove more comfortable;
if a potbelly stove is made from an old gas cylinder, then it is important to make sure that there is no dangerous substance left inside the container - otherwise there is a high risk of explosion.

Pros and cons of bourgeois

Heating garages with stoves is quite justified. Electric heating leads to high energy costs, given the large amount of heat loss. The same applies to heating with diesel fuel and liquefied gas. It remains to heat the garage with a potbelly stove. This simple oven can operate on wood, coal, fuel briquettes and other fuels. ... It is omnivorous and does not require permission to install and operate.

Consider the positive qualities of bourgeois:

The stove has a very reasonable efficiency indicator - it varies between 70-80%, depending on its design and the type of fuel used.

Suitable for heating garages and any other technical premises;
They give a large amount of heat, which depends on the type of fuel used - using firewood with a high calorific value, you will achieve a good heat;
Quick warm-up - we scoop out the ash remaining from the last kindling, load fresh firewood, wait 15-20 minutes. After this time, the garage will become noticeably warmer. After 30-40 minutes, the temperature will reach a comfortable limit (you should not raise it above + 23-24 degrees);
Easy installation - you need to mount it on a non-combustible base and connect the chimney;
Possibility of modernization - the stove can be easily converted for liquid and gas burners. There are also certain methods for increasing efficiency - we will touch on these points in the review.

Disadvantages:

Not the most presentable appearance, but in a garage and other technical room it does not matter in the least;
An improperly assembled potbelly stove may turn out to be too gluttonous and ineffective - 40-50% of the heat will fly out;
It is necessary to install a high chimney - proper draft is ensured by installing a chimney up to 4-5 meters in height.

In addition, potbelly stoves need regular cleaning. It is one thing to remove accumulated embers and ash, and another thing to remove tar from the pipe.... The problem with resins is solved by installing a chimney from a pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm (or preferably 120 mm).

Modernization of a potbelly stove

Installing a stove in the garage will give you warmth and comfort. But the efficiency of this oven can be increased by 10-15%. Here is a list of technical solutions:

Installing a brick shirt from the back and sides - we've already talked about this. The thickness is half a brick;
Installing a chimney with a long horizontal section - it will keep some of the heat escaping into the chimney. We put the stove in one corner, stretch the chimney to the other, and then take it up;
We sheathe the walls with steel sheets - they will reflect infrared radiation back into the room;
Installation of a steel jacket around the furnace - we surround the stove with steel sheets located at a distance of 40-50 mm from its walls. This solution forms a convector that makes air circulate through the garage.

Making a potbelly stove.

I bought 12 meters of a profile pipe to fit into the car, asked to cut it into 6 pieces of 2 meters each.

Immediately I bought cast iron grates 270 x 270 mm.

I cut the pipes into pieces 50 cm long and began to cook the side walls.

I decided to bend the back wall.

Here are the approximate dimensions of the firebox:

height 50 cm,
length 55-60 cm,
width 40 cm.

I set the side walls in parallel, measured the diagonals, sawed 4 identical rods and welded them in. They will hold horizontal partitions

Then I cut out the lower partition from 4 mm sheet steel. It is moved forward, behind the stove there is a 33 x 12 cm gas passage.

The upper second baffle is the same size for the gas passage, but it is already displaced back. There is a small gap at the back to reduce aerodynamic drag.

These partitions are removable and will be slightly reinforced with a corner. Easily removed through the firebox.

The next stage is the manufacture of the top cover. The shape was made in such a way as to increase the passage of gases, and to reduce the aerodynamic resistance at the entrance to the pipe.
A tube with holes will be located in the chamber above the firebox, through which warm secondary air will be supplied for afterburning.

I found a piece of a square shaped pipe 100 x 100 mm in the garage, the flue at the exit from the furnace will be square at the beginning.
This makes it even easier to make a damper. We need an axle (I used a long bolt), a spring to fix the damper, the damper itself and a handle with a counterweight.

The damper is 4 mm thick.

Then he welded the pipe to the top of the stove, made a smooth transition for gases.

Made a tube for secondary air.
The bottom line is that hot air is supplied to the area behind the firebox, and flue gases are burned out. In theory, this results in an increase in temperature in the second chamber.
To prevent the tube from burning out, he protected it with a corner. The nozzle itself was flattened and welded for greater strength.

Well, and welded on the pipe.

I also sawed the reinforcement and made an insert from a thick-walled pipe. On one side I welded a pipe, the other end is free. This is done for thermal expansion of the reinforcement.

I made a tight hatch for ash removal, I reinforced the walls of the ash pan with a corner. The cover is inserted very easily, the gap was set using thick paper.

I made 4 holes in the hatch and fixed the lower part from the carburetor with dampers. They will regulate the air supply very precisely.

I made the front wall, cut out a window under the firebox door and reinforced it with a frame.

Next, I made a door from a cut out piece of the front wall, corners and a sheet of metal. Outside there are holes in the lower part, from the inside too, but already on top. This is how the door cools! Of course, the design is not very successful, you need to fix the inner sheet on hairpins, and not scald it around the perimeter. It heats up more, expands and bends the door outward. I will fix it!

Made 4 legs. 3 of them are height adjustable.

I welded the legs into place, made a door locking mechanism. A piece of power steering plate, fittings, ball.
I also made stops for the door, it is hinged.

I am making an air circuit to make forced airflow. I bought a sheet of tin 0.5 mm, fastened with screws and rivets.

The fence will be at the bottom, and will be fed along the corrugation along the garage.

In the garage were started thermal paint cans, I decided to use it.

He melted the stove. I'll say right away with paint, I got excited, the spray can says 400 degrees, but Fahrenheit. The paint burned out, stank.

Homemade potbelly stove from an old can

The work on the independent manufacture of a stove begins with the choice of the type of construction. The stove can be round or rectangular. For the assembly of such a unit, even an old can for water, milk and other liquids is suitable.

Homemade potbelly stove from an old can

No expensive materials and hard-to-find tools are required. All you need can be found in the barn or purchased from the hardware store.

Decorating a homemade potbelly stove

Tools and materials for assembling a potbelly stove

The can.
A metal bar with a diameter of 0.6 mm.
Hammer.
Chisel.
Smoke exhaust pipe.
File.

To assemble some models of potbelly stove, you will need a welding machine, but if you want to, everything can be done without the use of welding. The advantage of using a welding machine is that it can provide higher reliability and rigidity of the structure. Recommendations for any specific dimensions are not given, since in the case of homemade potbelly stoves, everything is selected individually. When choosing the size of additional units, be guided by the dimensions of the main tank.

Potbelly stove from a can

First of all, you need to prepare a blower... Take your can and make a hole in it. It should be arranged just below the neckline. The cut hole should be shaped like a regular rectangle. To do this, take a file and carefully sand the edges of the resulting connector.

The next hole must be prepared in the bottom of the can.... It should be of such a diameter that in the future the pipe for the removal of combustion products will enter it with sufficiently great efforts. Determining the appropriate size is extremely simple. Prepare the markings in the place of the chimney device. Mark a hole about 15-20 mm smaller than the chimney diameter. Next, you will need to arm yourself with a chisel and an ordinary hammer. With these simple tools, you can punch out the hole you want. In the end, all that remains is to align it with a file.

Take the flue pipe and try to drive it into the prepared connector... If the chimney does not go through, you will have to work with the file for some more time. However, you don't need to be too zealous either. The chimney, as already noted, must enter the connector with a sufficiently large effort.

Take a metal rod with a diameter of 0.6 mm and try to bend it with a snake. In the future, you will use this snake as a grate... The prepared grill must be bent so that it can be properly positioned in the neck. In the end, all that remains is to align the grate in the container, and the homemade stove will be ready.

Experts recommend installing such stoves on special stands. So it is more reliable and safe.In addition, the design of a homemade potbelly stove can be improved by installing a damper on the blower. It will allow you to adjust the intensity of traction, fuel consumption and heating level.

Thus, an elementary potbelly stove can be collected even from an old can. No expensive special tools are required for such work. In the end, all that remains is to place the stove in a suitable place and connect the chimney. A homemade stove will provide quality room heating until you decide to install a more functional and efficient system.

A homemade stove will provide high-quality room heating until you decide to install a more functional and efficient system.

Development and improvements

The "bourgeois" potbelly stove was designed most of all for dry firewood or peat: it was born when the hawks squeezed Soviet Russia from all sides. All coal-mining areas and suitable for development woodlands were in the hands of the enemy. Only later, when the Soviet Union was already on its feet, the stove was adapted for other types of solid fuel.

We had to do quite a bit for this: to add a grate and horizontal partitions to the firebox that form smoke channels. At the forward bend of the channel, the pressure in the presence of thrust will always be below atmospheric, which was not provided by the original potbelly stove. Therefore, it became possible there to equip the stove with a burner, turning it into a heating and cooking stove. If the pipe is brought out at least 1.5 m above the ridge of the roof and equipped with an aerodynamic mushroom umbrella, then, without fear of waste, such a stove can be made with a two-burner stove. A drawing of the improved potbelly stove is shown on the left pos. rice.

Improved potbelly stoves

With the development of heating technology, slow-burning furnaces, very economical and easy to use, have become more widespread. The potbelly stove turned out to be suitable for this mode of the furnace: it was enough to remove the grate, returning to the deaf hearth, and supply the blower with an air choke that regulates the combustion mode and thermal power. On the right pos. rice. a stove-stove with a convenient and technologically advanced air regulator by V. Loginov is shown.

About grates and blower

To turn the potbelly stove from an ordinary stove into a slow one, the grate must be removed. Slow combustion is ensured by supplying air to the fuel from above, so that the smoldering mass itself sucks in as much as it needs. When air is supplied from below through the grate, either the top layer of the fuel will decay, and the bottom will remain intact, or, if the fuel is air-permeable and dry, combustion will turn into a fiery one. Remember the chores with barbecue on the grill: you have to blow on the coals, then extinguish the flared ones.

Therefore, the grate in a multi-mode potbelly stove must be made not one-piece from a steel sheet, you cannot pull it out through the firebox door in any way, but type-setting from individual cast-iron grates. They can be supported by steel corners welded to the walls of the furnace from the inside or (better) pieces of reinforcing bars 10-15 mm in diameter.

But in any case, the blower should be made round, like in Loginov's stove, and equipped with an M60x1 pipe installed on screws or rivets. From welding, the thread will lead completely, and, as you know, large threads do not pass with taps, only on the machine.

A potbelly stove with a round threaded blower becomes truly universal:

The blower was completely open - potbelly stove, coal, peat briquettes, pellets.
The Loginov choke is screwed onto the blower, the grates are removed - a slow burning stove on sawdust, wood chips, waste paper / cardboard and other waste fuel.
The grates are installed, the gasifier outlet is introduced into the blower (see below) - a potbelly stove on working off, dark heating oil.

Water

The rooms in the bourgeois apartments (in the mansions lived those who draped) were, according to the present ideas, very large. Therefore, in the stationary combustion mode, an essential role in their heating was played by the IR from the screen. In today's housing, convection heating is sufficient, thermal radiation will only overheat the walls, increasing heat loss to the outside.

The excess of IR rays is best used by surrounding the potbelly stove instead of the screen with a U-shaped hot water boiler. It will not knock down the combustion mode in the stove, because IR is reflected by the inner surface layer of the metal of the screen, and its reflectivity is almost independent of the surface temperature.

The share of IR from the screen to the outside is for a potbelly stove 1 / 5-1 / 7 of its thermal power, therefore a water stove will provide only hot water supply with a storage tank. But for a summer cottage or a rural house, and this is already a godsend.

How to install

Experts with experience recommend placing the stove stove approximately in the corners of the room, and leading the chimney to the other side. By using this arrangement, you can achieve maximum heat transfer from the oven. To prevent the heat from escaping along with the smoke, the pipe should be extended at an angle that is 30 degrees. You should also try to avoid straight pipe sections located horizontally.

To place a stove-stove in a garage room, a supply ventilation system and a good exhaust system are required.

The oven should never be placed close to the vehicle. The potbelly stove should be at a distance of 1.5, or even 2 meters from it. Also, any highly flammable objects and compositions must be moved from the stove to an approximately similar distance.

Brick walls should be installed on the sides and in front of the oven. This not only provides protection against unintentional touches to the hot structure, but also ensures the accumulation of heat, which is provided by the stove, which makes it possible to significantly increase the level of efficiency of the stove-stove.

If the walls of the garage are made of wood, then there should be about 100 cm of free distance between them and the stove itself. The wooden walls themselves must be covered with asbestos sheets, bricked or protected with some other fire-resistant means.

It is extremely important to place an iron sheet up to two cm thick at the base of the stove, or pour a concrete screed, which will help to avoid the spread of fire in the event that sparks, coals and so on fall out of the stove. ...

The potbelly stove should be used exclusively in rooms where good ventilation is provided. The main fire factor is oxygen. Therefore, fresh air must enter the garage in good volumes, otherwise the fire simply will not ignite, and there will be a minimum of heat from such a stove. Sometimes it is quite enough for this purpose to leave a not very wide gap between the garage door and the ground. If there is no such gap, then you must either make it yourself, or make a supply ventilation system.

In no case should you leave flammable materials near the stove.

If there is wood next to a burning stove, containers with gasoline and oils, then their ignition can lead to extremely negative consequences.

We select the design of the stove

Since there are enough drawings of ordinary stoves on the Internet, we will offer a choice of 4 original designs, one of which will certainly suit your conditions:

Double pass wood and coal fired oven welded from sheet metal.
Vertical heater from a gas cylinder with an air or water circuit.
Long burning pyrolysis stove from a cylinder or pipe installed horizontally.
Dripper for the development of automotive and other oils.

Unit with two smoke circuits

Note. A heating stove can also be built from ceramic bricks, as described in this topic. Such a heat source will fit well into the interior of the cottage, but it is inconvenient for a garage due to the size of the brick structure, long warm-up and lack of mobility.

Wood heater with air chamber at the top

If you spend a little time in the garage (1-3 hours a day), then you will need to quickly heat the room, and it will be provided by a vertical wood-burning stove with an air heat exchanger (option No. 2), shown in the photo. With a fan blowing air through the upper chamber, it acts like a heat gun.
The same second option is suitable for large boxes (standard dimensions of a garage are 6 x 3 m). Then the air chamber turns into a water circuit connected to the heating registers.
For constant heating of a standard garage, option No. 1 is suitable - an effective two-pass wood-burning stove, or No. 3 - a continuous burning unit. The choice depends on the material you have: the first is made from a propane cylinder, the second is made of sheet iron 4 mm thick.
For those who plan to burn waste oils for heating, it is recommended to weld a drip-type stove from a round pipe (option No. 4). If desired and skillful, it can be modernized - converted into a boiler by making a water jacket.

Two-chamber pyrolysis oven

Reference. Of the popular garage homemade products, it is worth mentioning 2 more designs: the famous stove - a top-burning Bubafon stove and a small heater made of wheel disks. The manufacture of the first is described in detail, the second is shown in the video:

Which stove is better cast iron or metal

A cast iron stove has many advantages over an iron stove. Thin-walled steel heats up quickly and easily carries internal heat to the outside. As soon as the fuel burns out, it cools down very quickly.

Cast iron stove stove is durable

Unlike steel, thick cast iron has a fairly high heat capacity, but a lower thermal conductivity. In other words, it slowly heats up, accumulates heat in itself and, due to its heat capacity, gives off heat for some time after the combustion of all the fuel.

In addition, the cast-iron walls reflect some of the heat back into the combustion chamber. This creates ideal conditions for long burning and complete combustion of any type of fuel.

To obtain the same conditions in a steel stove, additional heat-reflecting screens have to be installed. And cast iron does not need screens by definition.

Sometimes situations arise when it is necessary, without significant material costs, to heat a small room (garage, workshop or warehouse) as efficiently and quickly as possible. An excellent solution to the problem will be a compact do-it-yourself stove, which requires ingenuity, desire, tools and metal to create.

A simple potbelly stove can be built from materials that are at hand. You can use a regular can or a thick-walled barrel. Long-term practice has shown that very thick metal (over 8 mm) is too difficult to warm up. Thus, efficiency decreases and most of the heat is not used for heating.

If the metal turns out to be too thin, under the influence of high temperatures, it will begin to deform and quickly lose its original shape. The best option is walls of about 3-4 mm.

Oven Introductory Video

Rectangular potbelly stove with reflector

When deciding what shape and size the finished potbelly stove should take, everyone must independently. A person with engineering education and skills can take any, even the simplest design, and make the desired changes aimed at improving it.

Drawing of a rectangular potbelly stove:

A simple and multifunctional do-it-yourself stove is made from the following materials:

Outline and simple design drawing showing all basic dimensions
Sheet metal (its quantity depends on the desired dimensions of the furnace)
Steel corners (thickness 4-5 mm)
Metal tube 25-30 mm
Pipe 180 mm
Welding machine
Working hand and electric tool

The furnace body will be made in the form of a rectangle with steel sheets, which are butt-welded to each other. It is necessary to cut the workpieces under five main planes (bottom, top, side and back walls). On the front panel there will be a blower and a door for the furnace, so it will be possible to resolve the issue with it later.

First, the side surfaces are welded to the bottom. It is necessary to ensure that they are located strictly vertically, using a level or square, and docked at a right angle. Having grabbed in 2-3 places, once again we are convinced of the correctness of their location and cook.

After that, the back wall is welded. All internal space must be divided into three parts:

Smoke turnover
Firebox
Ash pan

The last two must be separated by a grate, on which solid fuel (peat, firewood) will be laid. It is done as follows:

From the inside on the sides at a certain height (10-15 cm), the corners are welded to the entire length
For the lattice, it is necessary to prepare strips of thick sheet steel with a width of 25-30 mm and a length corresponding to the width of the stove

The distance between the plates is about 5 cm
Strips are welded to two metal rods with a diameter of 15-20 mm as reliably as possible, since they have another role to play - stiffeners

There is no need to weld the grille to the inner corners. If necessary (cleaning the stove, repair) it can be easily obtained. After some time, some of the plates may burn out and will need to be replaced. There are many more reasons to leave the grille removable.

In the next step, you need to weld two metal rods on top, on which the reflector will be located. The latter is a metal sheet that separates the smoke flow and the firebox. The reflector is removable.

It is necessary to position the reflector so that a channel is formed in front, allowing the smoke to escape. It will warm up inside the most, so it is made of very thick metal (12-16 mm).

It's time to start the final stages of work. First, the stove is welded. It will not be superfluous to provide an opening for the chimney in advance. Then the upper lintel is cut out and welded, then a narrower one, placed at the level of the grate and separating the doors of the grate and ash pan.

You should not bother much about the size of the doors. The main thing is that it is convenient to lay firewood through them and remove ash and ash. The door for the firebox is made, as a rule, almost the entire width, so that the reflector and grate can be removed, for the ash pan - narrower.

Having collected everything together, it is time to think about how to install the finished structure on the legs. They are recommended to be made of a metal tube 2-3 cm in diameter and 8-10 cm in length with a nut welded at the end and a screwed in bolt. This will allow you to adjust the height. To many, such a step may seem strange, but during the installation process, everything will become clear.

It's time to think about the chimney, which will be made of a pipe with a diameter of 15-18 cm. At the same time, it should be led out through a hole in the wall. Bends are made at an angle of 45 degrees, there should not be any areas located horizontally.

A rotary damper must be provided at the lower end of the chimney. For it, a circle is cut out of sheet metal, with a diameter slightly less than the similar characteristic of the pipe, in which a hole is drilled for the handle for rotation. The latter can be made from a metal bar.

It is necessary to place the chimney on a sleeve 15-20 cm high. It is made from a product with a diameter slightly smaller than the chimney and is welded along the hole to the top cover. It's time to install the stove, adjust the height and that's it - you can heat the room.

Simple potbelly stove from a can

The simplest do-it-yourself potbelly stove is made from an ordinary can. There is no need to talk about the durability of such a structure, but it is quickly built, easily assembled and gives enough heat.

All work consists in the installation of the legs, the arrangement of the outlet pipe and some cosmetic operations. For work you need:

Can
Chimney pipe
Grate wire
Welding machine
Tools

Getting Started

Set the can horizontally and mark where the blower will be, in the shape of a rectangle or sickle. Place it under the lid
A hole is cut in the wall or bottom of the can, equal to the diameter of the chimney pipe
To make a grate, you need to stock up on steel wire. It is bent, carried through the lid into the inside and gently unbent so that the zigzag is in the desired position, while it remains convenient to lay chips, firewood, etc.
The can must be fixed on legs that are cut from tubes or corners and welded
The chimney is welded

A reflector can be mounted on the outside of the tank, thanks to which less heat generated will escape. Having welded the handles from the sides, the structure can be transferred to any other place.

Pros and cons of homemade bourgeois

Among the many advantages of such a nondescript, but useful installation, there are:

Complete autonomy and energy independence
Work on any solid fuel, including plant residues - this saves a lot of money
Versatility of design, which can not only be installed in various rooms, but also used for cooking
A simple design that you can build yourself from the materials available in the garage
There is no need to erect a monolithic foundation and install a capital chimney

But despite the significant and numerous advantages, there are a number of disadvantages of bourgeois:

The high thermal conductivity of the metal leads to rapid fuel burnout and cooling of the furnace
If the wall thickness is insufficient, soon they will begin to burn out and the furnace will fail.
You need to watch the combustion process and throw up firewood in time, control the traction
Tarry and damp logs cause stubborn soot in the chimney

Video - another option for making a furnace

In custody

A homemade potbelly stove is a reliable and effective assistant in a cold workroom or your own garage. Its manufacture is not difficult, and there is no need for large material investments to start work.

Very often, it is the stove stove that is used to heat the garage. And you can do it yourself, but you don't need to spend money for this. It is enough to look for unnecessary metal parts in the bins.

Advantages and disadvantages of a potbelly stove for a garage

A stove-stove is considered to be the most practical way of heating in winter. This is a small structure, which is practically portable, capable of heating any room in terms of area, regardless of the outside temperature and other climatic conditions. This is its main advantage. However, in modern conditions, a stove-stove is used exclusively for heating outbuildings, for example, a garage. And this is due to a large number of disadvantages:

the stove cools down quickly, which means that in order to maintain a constant temperature in the room, it must always burn;
uneconomical for the same reason;
is fire hazardous, therefore, when installing it, you need to take care of protecting the nearby wall and floor.

However, its omnivorous nature allows you to save a little on the purchase of fuel, especially if you take into account the almost 100% efficiency of such a device.

The potbelly stove has a special design, thanks to which you can get high efficiency.

Design and principle of operation

The peculiarity of the stove-stove is that it does not require the construction of a foundation and the arrangement of a capital chimney. In most cases, it is because of this that it is chosen for use in the garage. This room does not always have electricity or a gas pipeline, which means that a stove-stove is the only solution to the heating problem.

Potbelly stove does not require the construction of a foundation

This design is a metal box with a door and a pipe, which is brought out of the heated room.

The pipe can also serve as a heated element, if it is slightly modified. Make it stepped, not straight, which will allow hot air to linger a little in it.

Calculation of the main parameters (with drawings and dimensions)

The high efficiency of a stove-stove can be obtained only if all the basic parameters of the structure are correctly calculated.

Pipe

It is very important to make an accurate calculation for it. The diameter should be 2.7 times the volume of the furnace. In this case, the diameter is determined in millimeters, and the volume of the furnace in liters. For example, the volume of the combustion part is 40 liters, which means that the diameter of the chimney should be about 106 mm.

If the installation of grate is provided in the stove, then the height of the firebox is considered without taking into account the volume of this part, that is, from the top of the grate.

Screen

Red brick stove screen is able to accumulate heat

Litter

It must be there. There are two reasons for this:

some of the heat is radiated downward;
the floor on which the stove is standing heats up, which means there is a risk of fire.

For the litter under the stove, you can use an asbestos sheet

Chimney

Despite all the calculations, gases sometimes go into the chimney not completely burned out. Therefore, it must be done in a special way. The chimney consists of:

the vertical part (1–1.2 m), which is recommended to be wrapped with heat-insulating material;
hog (slightly inclined part or completely horizontal), 2.5–4.5 m long, which should be 1.2 m from the ceiling, which is not protected by heat-resistant materials (1.5 m from the wooden surface), from the floor - by 2.2 m.

The chimney must be brought out into the street

Photo gallery: diagrams of a potbelly stove device for a garage

On the diagram, you need to indicate all the exact measurements. The chimney must be brought out to the street The potbelly stove can be round or square The volume of the firebox depends on the presence of grates The potbelly stove scheme depends on the material used

Required materials and tools

To make a potbelly stove with your own hands you will need:

welding equipment (or any other welding machine, if you have relevant experience);
chisel;
soft cloth (you can use a rag);
hammer;
sandpaper (fine-grained).

The list of materials depends on which container the stove will be made from. This can be a gas bottle or a milk bottle. If you have some experience with metal, then a potbelly stove can be made from sheet material. However, you definitely need to take care of the availability:

refractory bricks;
steel pipes;
metal wire;
grate bars (in some cases, you can do without them);
a branch pipe with a weather vane;
door hinges.

Preparatory work before assembling the oven: choosing a place

Using a potbelly stove in the garage, like any other heating device, requires compliance with safety rules. First of all, this concerns the place of installation of the device. Ideally, the corner of the garage is suitable for this, which is located near the walls opposite to the door of the room.

Remember not to put the stove in the immediate vicinity of the car. The distance between them should be at least 1.5 m. There should be a similar distance from objects that are flammable, for example, from barrels of gasoline.

Walls near the stove must be protected with fireproof material

The distance from the stove to the wall depends on what material the garage is built from. If it is a tree, then there should be at least 1 m from the stove to the wall. Additionally, it is recommended to protect them with asbestos plates.

DIY step-by-step instructions for making a potbelly stove for a garage

The method of making a stove-stove depends on its shape and the material used.

Classic stove-potbelly stove

For the manufacture of such a structure, it is necessary to have certain skills in working with a welding machine. All work consists of several steps:

Make 5 blanks from sheet metal.
Blanks must be cut from sheet metal
Weld the side surfaces to the bottom. Make sure that they are located strictly vertically relative to each other, which will help the use of a level or construction square.
Weld on the back wall.
The internal space is conditionally divided into three parts: the smoke circulation, the furnace part and the ash pan. Install a grate in the last two. To do this, at a height of 10-15 cm, the corners must be welded to the entire length. For the grating itself, it is recommended to use 25–30 mm thick sheet steel from which strips must be cut. The distance between the plates should be 5 cm. The rods themselves must be welded to two rods, which give rigidity to the lattice.
From above, it is necessary to weld two metal rods, which are needed for the location of the reflector (the sheet that separates the firebox and the smoke circulation), the reflector must be placed in such a way that a channel for smoke is formed.
The grate and stove are optional elements.
Weld the stove cap, not forgetting about the hole for the pipe. Cut and weld the top link. Do the same with a narrower part.
Make a door. It is recommended to do it over the entire width of the stove so that the grate and reflector can be removed without problems during cleaning and repairs. Do not forget that the door must be equipped with a handle, latch and curtains.
Install the structure on the legs, which can be made of a metal pipe with a diameter of 2-3 cm. You should not make them too high. 8-10 cm will be enough. If desired, you can equip them with bolts, which will allow you to adjust the height.
Make a chimney from a pipe with a diameter of 15-18 cm. For its outlet, you need to make a hole in the wall of the appropriate size. The pipe consists of three parts, which are interconnected at an angle of 45 °.
The pipe must not have horizontal parts
At the lower end of the chimney, it is necessary to make a rotary damper. You can also make it from sheet metal, but the diameter should be slightly smaller than the hole in the pipe. It is also necessary to provide for a handle that would move this damper.
The pipe must be fixed on a sleeve 15–20 cm in size, which is welded along the hole to the top cover.
Install the stove, adjust its height.
When using sheet metal, you can make a stove of any size

Video: original do-it-yourself garage stove for a garage

Milk can oven

It is quite easy to make such a furnace, you just need to follow the step-by-step instructions:

Video: stove stove for a garage from a gas cylinder

Features of operation

During the operation of a homemade stove-stove, it is very important to follow certain rules. This is necessary not only for the safety of its use, but also for a long service life. These rules are:

it is necessary to maintain a safe distance between the walls of the furnace itself and the walls of the room (a distance of 50 cm is considered ideal);
the chimney must be brought out to the street, in no case should it be coupled with the garage ventilation system (very often this desire arises when the stove is installed in the basement of the garage), since this is the only way to guarantee sufficient traction for full combustion;
places where the pipe is taken out into the street must be insulated with asbestos or other non-combustible material;
it is possible to increase the efficiency of a potbelly stove by insulating the room itself;
next to the potbelly stove, it is necessary to install a box with sand and a fire extinguisher, since this is required by fire safety rules.

How to improve oven performance

This oven has one significant drawback - it cools down very quickly. However, it is very easy to fix this with a brick screen that is installed on three sides of the structure. This will allow you to accumulate heat and give it to the room even after the stove stops burning.

It should be located at a distance of 5–7 cm from the walls of the stove, in no case right next to it. In this case, you need to take care of the presence of ventilation holes.

The screen should not be close to the walls of the stove

A structure with a brick screen will weigh much more than an ordinary metal stove-stove, therefore it is recommended to first build an individual foundation.

In some cases, it may be necessary to install an individual foundation. It's very simple to make it:

Dig a hole about 50 cm deep. All other dimensions depend on the dimensions of the stove itself and the screen.
Fill the bottom of the pit with sand (usually it takes about 3-4 buckets), after which it needs to be tamped. Cover the sand with a 10-15 cm layer of crushed stone, also tamp it.
Level the backfill, fill it with the prepared cement mortar. Leave it for a day (it is possible for a few, the foundation will only benefit from this).
Cover the base with several layers of roofing material.
Now you can start laying the screen on the brick floor. In this case, the first two rows should be laid out with continuous masonry directly on the roofing material. In rows 3-4, it is necessary to make ventilation gaps. Continue continuous laying.
It is recommended to make the screen without top overlap.

How to properly clean a stove stove

The design features of such a stove make it possible to clean it quite rarely.

This is one of the advantages of a potbelly stove. However, from time to time, the chimney must be cleaned of soot residues. For this, you can use a special brush. You can do it yourself. Attach a cylindrical brush to the rope. It is recommended to take a brush with plastic or iron bristles. In this case, you need to pick it up in such a way that it squeezes into the narrow chimney pipe without any problems.

The cleaning process itself takes place in the following sequence:

Close the opening of the firebox and plug it with a rag.
Make several movements with the brush (you need to stop when the brush began to move without resistance). Wait.
Remove all food that has gone down to the sump.

All this must be done extremely carefully, since the chimney of the stoves is not very strong.

A homemade potbelly stove in the garage can be a reliable and effective assistant in the fight against winter frosts. And if you do it yourself, then the efficiency of the device can be increased many times.

A compact stove for heating a small room, in the common people simply called a potbelly stove, will soon celebrate its 100th anniversary. Appearing in the 1920s, such metal stoves with a chimney became simply irreplaceable during the Great Patriotic War. The stove-stove does not give up its positions to this day, remaining a necessary attribute of a garage, greenhouse or country house. Such a stove is needed wherever people need to warm up and cook food, despite the lack of central heating.

The potbelly stove has its advantages and disadvantages. The undoubted advantages of such a heater include:

energy independence and autonomy;
cheap fuel in the form of coal, firewood, sawdust, wood chips, peat, waste industrial oil, diesel fuel, paint waste, etc .;
quick warm-up;
small size;
installation without foundation;
no capital needed;
ease of use;
low financial costs in the case of making a stove with your own hands.

However, the potbelly stove also has disadvantages:

good ventilation in the room is required;
high fuel consumption;
the need for constant monitoring of the fuel level;
rapid cooling (however, we can fix this drawback - to increase the efficiency, the stove can be overlaid with a brick).

Note: If you feel the need for such a device, then you have two options - to buy an industrial-made metal stove or to make it yourself.

First, let's talk about purchased stove-stoves, the cost of which starts from about 4,000 rubles (for example, the Ugolek stove) and rises to 40,000 rubles and above (this cost is typical for stove-stoves with beautiful names "Bavaria", "Baron" and NS.).

With heat exchanger

In the middle of this price range there are, for example, stove stoves with a water heating circuit and a heat exchanger, an army cast-iron stove, and a long-burning stove stove of the "Klondike" type.

The materials for stoves and fireplace stoves, manufactured in workshops, usually become stainless steel and cast iron. The standard drawing assumes the presence of a bunker with a firebox door, an ash pan, a chimney pipe. However, it happens that a stove stove is equipped with a hob, burners and even an oven. At the enterprises, they also make heaters-heaters, as well as stove-stoves, in which a ceramic or steel casing is installed to increase the efficiency, which significantly increases heat transfer. If you wish, you can buy a stove-stove or just a stove with a gas generator for your home.

Homemade potbelly stove

Making a potbelly stove with your own hands is not difficult even without a drawing. The materials at hand are suitable for work, be it a gas cylinder, a milk can, a barrel, a piece of pipe or sheet metal lying around in the garage. Having decided what you can use, choose a drawing of a rectangular or circular section of the combustion chamber for the stove with your own hands.

For example, you need to make the heating in a country house yourself and you have an unused milk can (for arranging the stove itself), a bent piece of pipe (to create a chimney) and a piece of metal fittings with a diameter of at least 6 mm (for a grate). To make a stove out of all this, it is enough to be friends with the tools, and also apply a little ingenuity.

The can is installed on its side - this is the basis of our handmade potbelly stove, its combustion chamber. A rectangular blower is cut out under the neck, the edges are processed with a file. The blower can be left in this form, or you can attach a damper to it, having received a stove with an adjustable draft at the exit.

In the upper part of the bottom of the can, you need to make the markings for the chimney yourself (it should be 2-3 mm less than the diameter of the pipe). We cut out a hole and tightly drive a piece of pipe adapted for a chimney into it. Half of the work is done.

Next, we are engaged in the insides of the stove-stove. With our own hands we make a grate in the form of a "snake" from a metal rod. We insert the rod into the neck of the can and place it so that the grate stands horizontally in the future combustion chamber. That's all! If you wish, you can put the resulting stove on an iron pallet and a brick rack. This will help to avoid heating the floor and will also minimize the likelihood of fire.

Note that a similar algorithm of actions can also be applied if you want you to have a potbelly stove from a barrel. Such stoves cannot boast of long burning, but they cope well with the function of quickly heating the room.

The second life of a gas cylinder

A good idea for a small stove is to recycle containers that can handle high heat. We have already spoken about barrels, but how do you, for example, have a stove from a gas cylinder or even two? These containers are good because they allow you to make a stove yourself for a country house or garage, both vertical and horizontal.

To create such a stove-stove, you will need the following tools:

welding machine;
grinding machine with wheels;
drill with drills;
brush with metal bristles;
tape measure and construction pencil for marking;
hammer, chisel, pliers.

Materials for making do-it-yourself stoves are needed as follows:

1 or 2 gas cylinders;
Metal sheet for ash pan and hob (thickness must be at least 3 mm);
cast-iron doors (old ones are suitable, for example, from a wood-burning stove, or made by hand from sheet metal);
chimney pipe;
thick metal fittings for making legs and grate.

Before starting work in a gas cylinder, open the valve and leave it in this state for at least 12 hours to ventilate the container. Another way to clean the bottle is to fill it to the top with water and then empty it completely.

For a vertical stove-stove, the gas cylinder is placed in a standard position for it, the neck is released and the markings are made for the future firebox and blower. The marked pieces are cut out with a grinder. The grate is manufactured separately - for this, the fittings cut to the required dimensions are welded in the places marked on the bottom of the cylinder.

Hinges are welded to the cylinder, on which the doors are hung. Further, the heck is equipped, which are designed to secure and increase the efficiency of the stove. A pipe is welded to the top or side of the cylinder to remove the smoke.

For a horizontal stove-stove, the cylinder is installed on the "legs" sideways. A square hole for the door and a round hole for the chimney pipe are cut in it. Instead of a grate, a number of holes are drilled at the bottom, and a rectangular container for collecting ash is welded below the cylinder. The stove is almost ready, it remains to hang the door with your own hands and install the chimney.

If desired, the complete set of vertical and horizontal stoves from gas cylinders can be expanded with a hob made of a sheet of metal attached from above.

Free fuel

Note: If you want to minimize the cost of fuel for the stove-stove, consider making a homemade structure for heating with car oil drained from the car.

The potbelly stove for mining is especially good for garage owners. The design drawing includes two tanks connected by a pipe, as well as a chimney.

To create a working stove, you will need the following materials:

Metal 4 mm thick for a potbelly stove.
6mm metal for the top tank lid.
Metal rods for stove legs (3-4 pieces of suitable thickness).
A pipe made of heat-resistant material for connecting tanks (diameter not less than 100 mm, length about 400 mm).
Chimney pipe (length at least 4 m).

Work on the formation of a potbelly stove during mining is carried out in the following order:

Legs are welded to the lower tank.
A lid with holes for oil and air is welded onto this tank from above.
At least 50 holes with a diameter of 9 mm are made on the connecting tube.
Weld the tube to the bottom tank lid.
A second tank with a filler neck and a chimney pipe is welded on top.

It is easy to use such a stove-stove. Oil is poured into the cold apparatus through the filler neck almost to the top, just a few centimeters short of the reservoir lid. Firing material in the form of rags or newsprint is also laid there. It remains to ignite, and soon you will enjoy the warmth.

As a rule, such stoves "consume" from 700 to 2000 ml of waste oil per hour. Potbelly stoves on working off allow you to boil water and cook simple food. However, their operation presupposes the obligatory presence of good ventilation in the room for the removal of carbon monoxide, as well as adherence to fire safety rules (you cannot place combustible materials near the stove, use flammable materials such as gasoline, acetone, etc.). The waste reservoir must be protected from water ingress. Refueling with oil is carried out only after the stove has completely cooled down.

Sheet metal

How to make a potbelly stove from metal? You can implement this project yourself if you have experience in welding, as well as the necessary tools. From the materials you will need the following:

sheet metal (its quantity determines the size of the stove);
steel corners 5 mm thick;
metal tube about 30 cm long;
pipe with a diameter of 180 mm.

To obtain a stove-stove, you need to weld a rectangle of metal sheets joined end-to-end (so far without a lid). On one side, place the blower and the furnace door. The inner space of the stove is divided into smoke circulation, firebox and ash pan.

In the last two compartments, a grate is installed, which will hold solid fuel. To do this, steel corners are welded inside the stove on the sides at a height of up to 15 cm. A pre-welded grid is laid on them (it can be made from steel strips welded to thick metal rods at a distance of about 5 cm). It is better to make the grate removable so that later, when it burns out, it would be possible to replace it without any problems. In addition, the removable structure of the grill makes it easier to clean the heating appliance.

Let's go back to the construction of the stove. For the sake of increasing the efficiency of the stove, you can make mounts for a removable reflector (metal sheet with a thickness of at least 12 mm), which will separate the firebox and smoke circulation. For this, two metal rods are welded on top. After installing the reflector, you should get a smoke channel.

Having equipped the insides of the stove, you can weld on the upper metal sheet, which will become the cover of the structure. In advance, a hole is made in it to fix the chimney. Further, jumpers are equipped in the stove, delimiting the doors, made for the ash pan, reflector and grate. As a rule, a small door is equipped under the ash pan, but two steel ones are made in the full width of the stove, so that it is convenient to get the reflector and the grate.

The next stage is welding to the structure of latches and legs (metal pipes with a diameter of up to 3 cm and a length of 10 cm are suitable for them), as well as chimney pipes from a curved pipe with a diameter of about 18 cm (note that the chimney is placed on a 20-cm sleeve ). The sheet metal potbelly stove is ready.

Warm brick

A potbelly stove fired with wood, coal and other types of fuel can significantly increase its efficiency. To do this, it is enough to erect a screen of fired clay bricks around it with your own hands. If you look closely at the drawings of such a mini-building, you can see that the bricks are laid at a short distance from the walls of the stove (about 10-15 cm), and, if desired, around the chimney.

Bricks require a foundation. Do you want the masonry to last a long time? Then fill the base at a time to form a monolith. It is better to take concrete as the material for the foundation, which should be reinforced with steel reinforcement with your own hands. It is advisable to make a layer of reinforcement at a distance of approximately 5 cm from the surface of the concrete pad.

At the bottom and top of the brickwork, holes are made for ventilation, which will ensure the movement of air (heated masses will go up, and cold air flows from below). Ventilation also prolongs the life of the metal walls of the stove, postponing the moment of their burning due to cooling by circulating air.

The bricks laid out around the stove accumulate heat, and then give it away for a long time, warming the air in the room even after the stove has gone out. In addition, the brickwork additionally protects the objects surrounding the stove from fire.

If desired, the stove can be completely laid out of bricks. Such a structure is beneficial in that it will last for many years without additional efforts on the part of the owner. However, there are also certain disadvantages. The disadvantages of this option include the following:

the process of laying out such a stove is quite laborious and is suitable only for those people who have experience in masonry with their own hands;
a brick stove is quite expensive, since it requires the use of refractory materials, including special clay for mortar.

In order to get a small potbelly stove on wood, it is enough to lay out a cone measuring 2 by 2.5 bricks, 9 bricks high. In the combustion chamber 2-4 rows are laid out of fireclay bricks. Ordinary fired clay bricks are suitable for a chimney, into which you must remember to insert a stainless steel sleeve.

Whatever the method of making a miniature stove or a stove-stove with your own hands, you make them according to a drawing or by eye, the main thing is that at the output you get an effective heating device, and in the extended configuration there is also a hob for cooking. Look around in search of suitable materials (barrels, sheet metal, etc.) and forward to your own homemade stove or even a stove-stove!

A do-it-yourself potbelly stove is great for heating garages. With its help, it is possible to organize the heating of the summer cottage in which they live on shortcuts, it can act as a temporary heating unit until the main heating is established.

With this design, you can not only heat various rooms, but also cook food. And one of the main advantages of this stove is that, with a strong desire, almost every person can cook a potbelly stove correctly, having done everything himself and saving on the services of third-party craftsmen.

You can make a potbelly stove with your own hands from almost any available metal products. For this, an old milk can, a pipe cut, a barrel, sheet metal, etc. are suitable. A correctly made potbelly stove warms up pretty quickly. At the same time, it cools down quickly, but to eliminate this drawback, it is usually sufficient to more thoroughly insulate the room.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a potbelly stove from a can

To properly cook a potbelly stove, you must first prepare a suitable drawing. There are drawings of units of rectangular and circular cross-section. So, you can make a potbelly stove with your own hands, even from an ordinary milk can. A diagram of this design is shown in Fig. 1.

Figure 1. Potbelly stove from a can.

To cook such a potbelly stove with your own hands, you do not need any expensive and hard-to-find materials and tools. The following will suffice:

A metal bar with a diameter of 0.6 mm.
An old milk can.
Chimney. With a great desire and the appropriate skills, you can do it yourself.
File.
Chisel.
Hammer.

Some of the variations discussed below will require the use of a welding machine. If you wish, you can do without it. But welding allows for a more reliable design. Any specific dimensions will not be given, because in the case of a potbelly stove, everything is purely individual. Also, the dimensions depend on the capacity you have.

The work begins with the preparation of the blower. To do this, you need to cut a hole in your can a little below the neck. Give it a rectangular shape. Finish the edges of the hole with a file. Cut a hole in the bottom of your can so that in the future the chimney will enter it rather tightly. It is extremely simple to do this:

First, prepare a marking at the bottom of your can, where the chimney will pass in the future. Make the hole diameter approximately 1.5-2 mm smaller than the diameter of the future chimney.
Take hammer and chisel. Use them to make a hole according to the previously prepared markings.
Take a file and line up the resulting hole. The most convenient way to do this is to use a file with a round cross-section.
Drive the flue pipe firmly into the hole. If it does not fit, you will still have to work with a file over the hole. The pipe should go in rather tightly.

Figure 2. Potbelly stove from a barrel.

Next, you will need to take a metal rod and bend it into a snake. In the future, the snake will serve as a grate. Bend the finished grill so that it can later be inserted into the neck. Align the inserted wire rack already inside the container. On this do-it-yourself potbelly stove is ready.

If you want, you can make a secure stand for it. And if you make a damper for the blower, you will get a potbelly stove with your own hands with the ability to regulate traction. The damper is extremely simple.

Thus, you can make the simplest potbelly stove with your own hands without any problems. This does not require any special materials and tools. All you have to do is install a homemade stove where you need it and connect the chimney. Such a homemade unit will regularly heat the room until you want to replace it with a more advanced system.

Guide for the manufacture of a stove stove from a pipe

This option will require welding. Such a potbelly stove is assembled with their own hands from a piece of metal pipe. The unit diagram is shown in Fig. 2.

If desired, it can also be made from an old barrel. Everything is done in a similar way. First you need to take the reinforcement, make a grate out of it and weld it to the body. In the above diagram, you can see that this do-it-yourself stove is equipped with two doors for the combustion chamber and the blower. A similar stove can be used not only for quick and high-quality heating of the room, but also for cooking.

Figure 3. Brick screen.

It is very fast heating that is one of the most important advantages of such stoves. However, this also implies their main drawback - they cool down rather quickly. Metal is not the best heat accumulator. However, you can easily fix this flaw. You just need to impose a brick on the potbelly stove with your own hands. This material, unlike metal, accumulates heat very well and retains it for a long time.

The only drawback of the design is that it will have to be heated for a long time to warm up the room. But you can easily get rid of this minus. You just need to create a special brick screen with ventilation holes. Systems of this kind are used in saunas. You can familiarize yourself with the diagram of such a brick screen in Fig. 3.

In the above diagram, you can see that the installation of the brick screen is performed at a certain distance from the stove body. This is a non-random and well-grounded decision. This design ensures the most efficient and rational use of the heat generated by the furnace unit.

Guide to Correct Screen Installation

By correctly making a brick screen, you will save your homemade potbelly stove from the lack of rapid cooling. During operation, the stove will emit heat, it will heat the brick, and the brick, as you know, is able to accumulate heat and keep it for a long time. As a result, you have already turned off the stove, and the room will be warm for quite some time.

Figure 4. Potbelly stove with smoke turns.

The masonry must be erected at a distance of about 10-15 cm from the walls of the stove. There should be ventilation holes at the top and bottom of the masonry. Air will circulate inside the brick screen. The warm one will be discharged into a heated room, and the cold one will cool the walls of the furnace, protecting them from rapid burnout.

Sometimes a brick is laid out around the stove in a checkerboard pattern or without a gap. This approach is absolutely wrong, forget about it. If you do the masonry without a gap, then the efficiency of heating the room will significantly decrease, and the excess heat will literally fly away into the chimney. The checkerboard pattern is bad because, if it is present, the air cannot circulate normally. The area of the bricks is much less solid.

As a result, it will cool down very quickly. The heat from the potbelly stove will simply pass through the masonry, as if through a sieve. Heat loss in such a situation is 50% or more. The room, of course, heats up pretty quickly. But it will also cool down at a very high speed. This method is well suited for new buildings, in which the main heating is not yet available, but the room needs to be heated. In finished buildings, it is better to refrain from it.

If there is no money at all, then you can not buy bricks, but even use broken products. But this option will only work for temporary use.

Improved design of a homemade stove

If you wish, you can make a potbelly stove of a more complex design, using metal boxes or sheet metal for this. You will get a good rectangular unit. A diagram of a rectangular stove is shown in Fig. 4.

This design assumes the presence of smoke circuits. Thanks to this solution, fuel consumption is significantly reduced. Traction control doors can be installed. This will save even more fuel. Dampers and smoke circulation ensure the most efficient operation of the stove and allow you to significantly save on fuel.

Thus, the historical name of this furnace has absolutely nothing to do with reality, since there is simply no excess fuel consumption during operation.

The name "potbelly stove" stuck to this beautiful stove only because of a misinterpretation.

It is important to be able not only to properly cook a potbelly stove, but also to know the features of its installation and operation.

If the walls of the house are made of wood or panels, then the stove should be installed no closer than 1 m to them. The rules for the safe operation of such units provide for the mandatory installation of a smoke exhaust pipe. It should consist of one section.

If necessary, it is of course possible to assemble a pipe from more than one section. But here it is important to adhere to the rule that one section of the structure should fit tightly into another. In this case, the lower one must be entered into the upper one. If the pipe has to be passed through a wall, a thermal barrier must be installed at the point of passage. It is usually made of bricks. It is better not to use concrete. With constant temperature drops, it will crumble rather quickly.

If you wish, you can buy or make additional accessories for storing fuel. For safety reasons, they must be installed at a certain distance from the stove. A modern unit will not only be able to warm up the room with high quality in just 15 minutes, but will also become an excellent interior decoration. Happy work!