The installation of window frames, of course, does not end with the work in this area of ​​the facade. Ahead is a rather complex and responsible operation of finishing window slopes. And this is not only in order to give the appearance of the building a finished look, the conceived design. There are more important ones from a practical point of view, the reasons.

Decorating the slopes of windows outside can be done using several technologies and using different materials. To determine their choice, it is necessary to consider the most affordable options for independent conduct.

What is the need for finishing window slopes outside

So, finishing the slopes of the windows from the outside is necessary not only because of the aesthetics of the facade. Much more serious goals are pursued that directly affect the comfort of living in the house.

When new window frames are installed in openings during construction, or when they are replaced during reconstruction or repairs, they are never mounted close to the wall structure. It is imperative that certain gaps are left on all sides, which are necessary to compensate for possible "movements", for example, when a building shrinks or even during seismic shocks. Otherwise, even a small change in the geometry of the walls, including a temporary one, can distort the windows, completely deform them, squeeze out the glass, etc.

Naturally, such gaps become loopholes for the cold. For a long time, during construction, they were filled with natural insulation - tow, felt, wool, etc. But if you leave these insulating padding without the necessary protection, they will not last long. They quickly begin to age, are taken away by birds to their nests, under the influence of precipitation and simply atmospheric humidity, they get wet, losing their qualities, they begin to rot and rot.

Over time, industrial materials, such as mineral wool, have come to replace such natural insulation materials. Even if it is not so attractive to birds, and does not lend itself to rotting, the ingress of water on it, combined with the effects of frost, leads to felting, increased fiber fragility and a sharp loss of insulation qualities.

Recently, polyurethane foam has been used to seal and insulate such deformation gaps. This is great stuff. that does an excellent job. But it also cannot boast exemplary durability if it is not protected. The consolidated effect of ultraviolet rays, humidity, wind and temperature changes can very quickly "age" the frozen polyurethane foam - the foam begins to crumble, and there will be little use from such sealing.

Therefore, the insulated seams between the wall and the frame must be closed with a material that is more resistant to natural influences. This, by the way, will further increase the thermal insulation qualities of this area. And since it is natural for a person to reach for beauty and neatness, they also try to give such a finish the most attractive look. That is, the work is planned and carried out taking into account the decorative qualities of the created facade appearance.

Methods for finishing external slopes and materials for these purposes

Not so long ago, the only ways to finish slopes were leveling them with mortar, followed by whitewashing or painting - for stone houses, or wood sheathing - for, respectively, wooden ones. Nowadays, the owners are provided with a fairly wide selection of materials that can not only aesthetically transform the appearance of the facade, but also create reliable protection for the thermal insulation layer around the perimeter of the window frames.

So, the following materials can be used for finishing slopes:

• Cement mortar. This trim finishes cannot be excluded from the popular methods, as many homeowners consider it to be the most reliable and durable. In addition, with the help of this material, the slopes are leveled for other facing materials.
• Moisture resistant drywall. This material will perfectly level surfaces, but it will require additional plastering and coating - it can be decorative plaster, tiles or painting.
• Plastic slopes. This option can be used not only when the walls of the house are faced with vinyl siding, as many people think. It is also widely used when decorating the facade with other materials.
• Panels of expanded polystyrene (better - extrusive) are quite suitable for the formation of slopes, and in addition, they have very high thermal insulation qualities. True, just like drywall, they will require additional finishing.
• Clinker tiles. This option is usually used in cases where the facade walls are built of bricks and decorated for joining, or are faced with clinker bricks or tiles.

Prices for plastic windows

plastic windows

• Natural wooden lining is suitable when the walls are built of timber or logs, or are faced with wood (natural block house). The lining will be in perfect harmony with these materials, especially if it is used in combination with platbands.

• Sandwich panels are PVC plates, between which one of the rigid insulation materials is laid. Such panels can be used for both internal and external finishing of slopes. They will harmonize very well with almost any facade wall decoration.
• Vinyl lining, which is produced in different shades and can be used in combination with insulation material, will also look good with any decoration of the exterior walls of the house.

You cannot achieve a beautiful interior without finishing the window slopes in the premises!

The methods of finishing the slopes outside and inside are in many ways similar, and differ in most cases only in the weather resistance of the materials used. So it makes sense to familiarize yourself with this type of work. About technologies - in a separate article on our portal.

How to independently trim window slopes outside

Finishing of external window slopes with plastering

Finishing of external slopes should be done immediately after the foam hardens. Its protruding excess is cut off with a construction knife flush with the window frame.

Cement or other mortar for external use is used both for the main finishing and as preparatory work for preparing the surface for fixing ceramic tiles, foam or drywall, since a flat surface is required for the installation of these materials.

When using solutions as the main finish, it is necessary to prepare for a rather complex work. The fact is that it is not easy at all to bring to the ideal a surface that is sometimes uneven in all directions.

The finishing process itself includes several stages, the sequence of which must be followed. Otherwise, the solution applied to the wall will very soon begin to crack and flake off.

Tools and materials

The first thing to start with is to prepare everything you need, that is, tools and materials.

Of the tools you will need:

• A trowel, a set of spatulas of various widths, including an angular one.
• Capacity for mixing the solution.
• Building level, plumb line.
• Soft, wide brush.
• Construction grater.
• Electric drill with an attachment for mixing solutions or a construction mixer.

Of the materials for finishing the slopes, it will be necessary to purchase:

• Cement and sand or ready-made plaster mix for outdoor use.
• Finishing putty - also for outdoor use. A mixture of decorative plaster can be used for the final outer layer.
• Priming compound.
• Reinforcing fiberglass mesh.

Plaster mixes

You can mix cement with sand in a certain proportion (for example, 1: 3) for plastering slopes, and thereby try to save on material. However, in order for the finishing layer to serve as long as possible, also coped with the function of additional insulation, it is recommended to use a special facade plaster, and it is better that it be "warm" .

Sandwich panel prices

sandwich panels

In addition, such plasters become a reliable waterproofing barrier, performs noise-absorbing functions. As a rule, such mixtures, in addition to binder gypsum or cement, contain natural bulk insulation materials, such as perlite, vermiculite, foam glass, reinforcing additives (cellulose fibers or fiber), special plasticizing additives.

The production of working solutions containing gypsum must be carried out strictly according to the instructions posted by the manufacturer on the packaging. Due to the fact that gypsum sets quickly, it is not worth kneading a large volume of the mixture. If there is no sustainable experience in plastering work, then it would be better to choose a mixture made on a cement basis.

Ready-made mixtures will cost more, but it is much easier to work with them, since they have a higher level of adhesion compared to cement-sand mortar. It is a very well balanced material with a homogeneous finely dispersed consistency, therefore it has excellent adhesion to surfaces.

For finishing the slopes, a large amount of material is not required, since their area is very small. Therefore, you should not save and suffer with concrete mortar, which is difficult to use. The optimal solution is to purchase an easy-to-use and multifunctional ready-mixed mixture for this purpose.

Slope plastering process - step by step

The first, perhaps, stage of the preparatory work will be the cleaning of surfaces from old, peeling plaster on the slopes, if necessary. It is best to clean the surface of it completely, otherwise it is she who can give impetus to cracking and shedding of new finishing layers. If the surface, cleaned of old plaster or whitewash, turns out to be smooth, for example, made of concrete, then notches are applied to it to increase its adhesion ability. After that, the slopes must be cleaned of dust.

It is clear that if we are talking about new slopes, then there can be no remnants of the old finish on them. But it will still be required to clean up, remove possible drops of frozen masonry mortar, remove dust.

Illustration
	The excess foam, which came out after filling the gaps along the perimeter of the frame, must be cut off, otherwise it will interfere with the plastering of the surface.
	Installing an ebb tide can be the next step. This element of the external window frame is mounted under the window frame and fixed with self-tapping screws to its lower part. Such an installation will help to avoid the ingress of moisture that flows down the frame under the windowsill, it will immediately fall on the inclined plane of the ebb. By installing the ebb in advance, you can also avoid unnecessary work to seal the gaps between it and the side slope. In this case, after plastering the slopes, the attachment of the ebb tide will be more durable.
	After installing the ebb, both it and the entire plane of the window, together with the frame cover, should be covered with plastic wrap so that the solutions during priming and plastering do not fall on their surface. It will be quite difficult to clean these materials from the frame and from the glass, and why ask yourself unnecessary dirty work. The film can be fixed to the frame using masking tape.
	The next stage of work will be the priming of all cleaned surfaces - this is a necessary process for any finishing of both internal and external slopes. The primer has several functions that are necessary for high-quality plastering. This is the impregnation and bonding of the materials of the surface of the slopes, which prevents shedding, imparting good adhesion to the materials, that is, the plaster composition will have excellent adhesion to the wall. The third function of primers is antiseptic surface treatment, that is, it will protect the wall from the appearance of fungal or mold colonies. For surface treatment, various primers can be used, but it is better to choose deep penetration solutions with an antiseptic additive. Apply the primer to the slopes with a wide brush.
	The next step is to strengthen the outer edge of the window opening with a special perforated metal or plastic corner. It is better if the corner is equipped with a serpentine mesh or a metal perforated section in the form of stripes on both sides - this will make the corner much stronger. The corner, as a rule, is fixed with a quick-drying gypsum mixture, which is applied to the wall pointwise, approximately every 300 ÷ 350 mm. If a corner with a serpentine (or metal mesh) is used, then you can glue ales mesh "wings" on a thin layer of applied tile glue for outdoor use.
	After the fixing mortars are dry, you can use a wide trowel or a regular wooden lath and attach them to the outer corner of the opening and the junction of the window frame with the wall to determine the thickness that the plaster layer should have. Thus, the largest thickness of the plaster layer will be located at the junction of the window frame with the slope, and the smallest - along the outer edge of the window opening.
	If it is impossible to fix the metal corner due to strong irregularities, then a flat wooden rail is fixed to the wall along the outer edge of the opening. This will become a kind of beacon, that is, it will determine the outer angle of the slope. Therefore, the rail must be set strictly according to the building level.
	Further, when everything is ready for plastering the slopes, it is recommended to make a tool called "malka", which will help level the walls at the desired angle, creating the necessary layer of plaster on them in a certain place. Malka can be easily made of plywood or a flat board with a width of 150 ÷ ​​200 mm, its length should exceed the width of the slope by 50 ÷ 100 mm. A cutout is made on one of the end sides of the bevel, so that when this "rule" is moved, no shifts occur and the required thickness of the plaster is set along the line of junction with the window.
	Another version of the malka is shown in this illustration. Here the cutout is made in the opposite direction - to abut against the edge of the closed window sash. You can think over on the spot which option would be more appropriate in your case. When plastering the slope, the cutout will rest on the frame or closed sash, and with the second edge - on the outer corner of the slope, reinforced with a metal or plastic corner. The malka will need to be pressed against these guides and, moving upwards, to align the solution thrown onto the surface. It is clear that when making such a template, it is necessary to make its end surfaces as smooth as possible. Craftsmen who professionally do this work have in their toolboxes made of aluminum, lightweight and with perfectly smooth surfaces. It is much easier to work with such tools than with wooden bevels.
	The plaster mixture is made strictly according to the instructions supplied by the manufacturer, that is, in compliance with the proportions of the dry construction mixture and water, as well as the holding time of the ready-made mortar and the period of its use. Work must be carried out at an air temperature of at least five degrees, otherwise the solution will quickly lose its plasticity. Do not immediately knead a large volume of plaster mixture, as it, as well as from a low temperature, will lose its plasticity and proper adhesion. Due to the loss of these properties, it will be difficult to work with the mixture. The quality of the layer applied to the surface will be low. When mixing the plaster solution, the dry mixture is poured into the water prepared in the container (and not vice versa) and thoroughly mixed with a construction mixer.
	Further, the ready-made mortar is applied with a layer of 10 ÷ 12 mm on the upper horizontal part of the slope. This is done with a spatula or trowel. Then the solution is leveled with a bevel or a wide spatula. It should be noted that leveling this surface is a very difficult process, therefore, it may be necessary to apply the solution in several thin layers. Each coat must adhere well before applying the next one.
	It is somewhat easier to plaster vertical slopes. The solution is poured onto the wall from the bottom of it, starting from low tide. Having thrown the mixture to a height of about 200 ÷ 300 mm, it must be immediately leveled with a small one. Then, in the same way, the mortar is applied to the section of the slope located above and is also leveled. And so on to the very top.
	The joints of the horizontal and vertical planes of the slopes are formed with mortar using an angled spatula. Traces from its edges are leveled with an ordinary spatula or trowel (trowel).
	When the main leveling plaster layer is dry, the surface is smoothed out with a putty for facade work. The mortar is applied to the slopes with a thin layer of 2 ÷ 2.5 mm. Sometimes the top decorative layer is applied in two layers. The necessary alignment is performed - the work requires accuracy, since it is desirable to ensure that no traces of the tool remain at all.
	As a finishing of slopes, decorative plaster can also be used, which has a shallow relief, which is able to hide the shortcomings made when applying the base leveling layer of plaster. If a smooth version of the slopes is chosen, then the applied putty is processed using a construction float, which will remove possible irregularities, and then smooth the surface. Then, the slopes must be primed again, and after the primer has dried, painted.
	In addition to decorative plaster or putty, an artificial stone or its polymer imitation can become the finishing of the slopes. Today on sale you can find corner elements made of artificial stone or plastic (polyurethane or expanded polystyrene) specially designed for slopes, having a protective and decorative coating that imitates a stone surface.

Facade plaster prices

facade plaster

Decorative plaster is an excellent tool for interior and exterior decoration

With the help of this material, you can give both the facade and interior design a special originality. Technological methods of working with it are described in detail in a special article on our portal.

Finishing slopes with expanded polystyrene

Recently, the technology of finishing slopes with expanded polystyrene plates with a thickness of 15 ÷ 20 mm has become quite often used. The advantage of this method is that the slope is immediately not only leveled, but also insulated with high quality. However, installation of this material is possible only if the slopes have a relatively flat surface, since expanded polystyrene is a hard and brittle material, and when pressed against significant irregularities, it can simply break.

Installation work in this case is quite simple and may well be done independently.

To perform the facing work, the following materials will be required:

• Polyfoam or extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 15 ÷ 30 mm.
• Cement-based tile adhesive for outdoor use.
• Metal perforated plaster corner.

From the tools you need to prepare:

• Spatulas of different widths.
• Styrofoam cutting knife.
• Electric drill with mixer attachment for mixing tile adhesive.
• Building level.
• Ruler, building corner.

The work on facing the slopes with foam is carried out after the walls of the house are insulated and are carried out in the following order:

Illustration	Brief description of the stages of work
	If the slopes around the windows are very uneven, it is recommended to "refine" them in advance with a cement-based plaster mortar. In this case, the leveling layer should not be too thick, since expanded polystyrene will be fixed on top of it. If the slopes are relatively flat, then the application of the leveling layer can be excluded from the list of operations.
	When the leveling layer hardens, you can proceed to the installation of polystyrene foam fragments. The best option would be to first fix the expanded polystyrene on the slopes, and then close the joint between the panels and the wall with a casing made of the same material. However, in some cases, craftsmen prefer to join the cut out parts of the slopes with the platbands along the outer edge of the window opening, as shown in the illustration presented. Therefore, work can be started both with finishing the slopes and with fixing the platbands.
	Styrofoam sheets are marked, drawn and cut into strips of the required length and width using a knife. The edges of the facing strips must be perfectly flat, so the cut must be done as carefully as possible so that the knife does not wiggle to the side. An uneven edge will definitely stand out after installing the cladding parts on the wall and spoil the whole look of the finish.
	When assembling cut out parts, the process should be controlled with the help of a building level, especially in cases where several fragments of material have to be combined in one line. The foam is glued using tile adhesive - it has excellent adhesion and therefore creates a good adhesion of the material to the wall. The glue is usually applied only to the wall, but if it is not even enough, then additionally it must be applied to the foam. It is advisable to distribute the adhesive over the surface with a comb-type trowel - this is how optimal uniformity is achieved. It is necessary to press the material to the surface carefully in order to avoid its breakage.
	The seams between the individual foam panels are filled with the same tile adhesive. As a result, the platbands fixed along the perimeter of the window opening should look something like the one shown in the illustration.
	A glue solution is applied to the horizontal surface intended for installing the ebb, which will level it and close the joint between the wall and the expanded polystyrene panel. When the mortar sets, the ebb is installed in place and fixed on the window frame. After that, flush with the platbands, the cut strips of expanded polystyrene are fixed to the slopes with the help of glue. The joints of platbands and slopes should not have gaps between them, they must be completely closed with mortar.
	After the glue under the foam dries, the next stage is the finishing of the upper horizontal part of the slopes. An adhesive mass is applied to the front surface of the cut out part and its joint with the casing, on which a metal corner with a serpentine mesh is fixed. This element must be pressed tightly to the surface so that the solution protrudes through the holes of the corner and mesh. Then another layer of mortar is applied with a spatula on top of the corner and mesh, which should completely cover the reinforcing element.
	If the ebb is not planned to be installed, then the outer window sill should be strengthened, also by fixing a metal perforated corner with a serpyanka mesh along the outer edge of the window opening. On top of the corner and serpyanka, a layer of adhesive solution is applied and leveled.
	Further, the mortar is applied with a spatula to vertical and horizontal panels of platbands and slopes. After that, perforated corners are glued to it, which will strengthen the protruding corners of the fragile polystyrene foam. The corners are lightweight, so they will stick well to the plastic glue solution.
	The next step is to apply a layer of glue on top of the corners, which should cover them completely.
	On top of the applied glue, between the corners installed on the outer and inner edges of the platbands, a reinforcing mesh is glued, which will make the final finish strong and resistant to mechanical stress. The mesh is first slightly sunk into the fresh mortar with your fingers, and then completely drowned in it by the efforts of a spatula. It should be completely submerged in the adhesive layer, although it usually remains visible.
	On top of the serpyanka, another thin layer of glue is applied, but already completely hiding it. After that, it is necessary to give time to dry it.
	In the same way, the slopes are finished, that is, glue is applied to the surface of the expanded polystyrene, then a reinforcing mesh, after which another layer of glue. After the solution dries, another layer is applied on top of it, which will completely hide the protruding edges of the corner and the protruding relief of the mesh.
	The photo shows how a window with slopes and casing made of expanded polystyrene will look like.
	To make the window look neat, the platbands are first covered with a primer, and then with paint for facade work, which will be in harmony with the color of the walls of the house. Hydrophobic paints are best suited for painting plaster surfaces, which will protect the finish from moisture and other adverse effects.

Decorating slopes with plasterboard or sandwich panels

These materials can be combined in a general section, since their installation is carried out according to one simple scheme. Therefore, if you understand the technique of using materials, then it will not be difficult to cope with their installation.

Prices for moisture resistant drywall

moisture resistant drywall

1 - Moisture resistant drywall (or sandwich panel).

2 - Adhesive solution.

3 - Mineral wool.

4 - Starting L-profile made of plastic or metal.

5 - Outer corner or F-profile for finishing the outer corner of the slopes.

It is necessary to immediately clarify that polyurethane foam can be used as an interlayer between the wall and the panel, which will simultaneously serve as glue and insulation.

When choosing for finishing slopes of one of the named materials to carry out the work, the following tools are required:

• Sharp knife for cutting panels.
• Ruler, square and marker for line marking.
• Building level.

A few words must be said about the panels used for decoration, since they differ from each other in the material of manufacture. Therefore, for example, it requires additional finishing, and the sandwich panels are ready for use immediately after their installation.

Features of finishing slopes with PVC sandwich panels

Sandwich panels consist of two plastic sheets (polyvinyl chloride), between which there is an insulation filling made of expanded polystyrene.

The material has a number of positive qualities, thanks to which it is most often chosen for facing slopes:

- ease of installation;

- ease of maintenance;

- excellent thermal insulation qualities;

- resistance to external influences;

- durability;

- a fairly wide selection of material colors.

Sandwich paneling of slopes is carried out in stages.

• The first step is to prepare the surface - dirt and dust are removed from it.
• Further, the slopes must be treated with an antiseptic primer and wait until it dries.
• In the next step, using self-tapping screws, the starting profiles are fixed to the frame, into which the ends of the drywall panels or sandwich panels will be installed. The width of the L-profile is selected depending on the thickness of the selected facing material. The profile is mounted around the perimeter of the entire window frame. Self-tapping screws are screwed in with a step of 200 ÷ 250 mm.

• A wooden leveling strip is fixed along the outer corner of the slope - this is a strip having a width of 100 ÷ 120 mm and a thickness of 10 ÷ 12 mm. It is necessary to secure the outer profile, which will close the gap formed between the wall of the slope and the sandwich panel.

• In order to close the end side of the panel, there is a special profile, which consists of two parts. One of which is fixed to a wooden plank, and the second is put on the end of the panel. These elements of the finishing profile are connected by snapping in the “thorn-groove” lock located along the entire length.
• If there is a desire to simplify the task of decorating the outer corner, you can get by with the usual corner, which can be fixed on "liquid nails" or on self-tapping screws screwed into the wall. However, in this case, the caps of the self-tapping screws will remain in plain sight, which not everyone likes.

• Then, according to the dimensions taken from the slopes, the facing panels are prepared.
• Mineral wool is fixed to the wall with the help of "liquid nails". It should be noted here that this material must be set so that it has a varying thickness. So, closer to the window frame, a thicker material will be required, and along the corner, the thickness of the insulation should be minimal. Another option for insulation is to fill the space between the panel and the wall of the slope with polyurethane foam, which must be applied directly to the panel before installing it in place. But experience is needed here, since it is even easier to make a mistake with the amount of foam, and the lining of the slope can be "inflated". And the excess polyurethane foam that gets on the front can leave traces, which will be difficult to completely remove.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

• Further, on the end top side of the side panels on "liquid nails" a profile is fixed, called the "inner corner" - it is necessary for joining the vertical and horizontal top panels at the corners of the slopes.
• After the side cladding parts are installed, mounting foam is applied to the upper horizontal panel, and then it is inserted into the grooves of the "inner corner" profiles and pressed against the slope wall. Temporarily, until the foam expands and dries, the panel should be fixed to the wall with masking tape or even supported with wooden racks.
• The top panel can be finished with an F-profile or an ordinary decorative corner, which are fixed in place with the help of liquid nails glue.
• The protective film is removed from the panels before installing them in place of the cladding.

The specifics of using drywall for facing slopes

Probably everyone who has ever renovated an apartment or house knows about this material. GKL sheets consist in the same way as sandwich panels, of three layers - two outer cardboard and inner gypsum.

Drywall gained its popularity due to several features. It:

- affordable cost;

- ease of processing and installation;

- the ability to manufacture curved structures;

- moisture resistance of sheets of gypsum plasterboard;

- durability of the material with proper processing and subsequent finishing.

It is perhaps even easier to mount plasterboard slopes than sandwich panels, since there are several options for fixing it:

• Installation of plasterboard parts on fixed on the slope of a wooden crate. But this option is possible if the slope has big enough width.

• Fixing the cut-out panels on a special corner, which is screwed along the outer line of the frame.
• If the wall is relatively flat and the gap between the wall and the window frame is small, then the plasterboard panel can be fixed directly to the wall.

When installing drywall, the screws are screwed directly through it. You don't have to mask them, since this material somehow requires additional finishing, which will hide the fasteners and joints between the parts underneath.

If it is planned to create an insulating layer, then the mineral wool is fixed in the same way as in the case of sandwich panels, and the foam can be launched into the gap between the wall and drywall through the holes drilled in the panels after the slopes have been installed in place.

Unlike sandwich panels, drywall installed on external slopes requires strengthening, therefore it is recommended to reinforce its surface with fiberglass mesh, according to the same principle as in the case of slopes insulation with foam plastic.

The corners of the slopes must be reinforced with metal corners, which are fixed to a finely dispersed cement mortar (tile adhesive can be used for outdoor work).

Then, on the entire surface of the drywall, it is necessary to apply the plaster solution selected for the work, on which the reinforcing mesh is glued. The rest of the work is carried out according to the same principle as when finishing the slopes with foam. It is quite obvious that the advantage of drywall is that when using it, you can significantly reduce the time for leveling the surface.

Find out how to make internal ones with step-by-step instructions from our new article on our portal.

There are other ways to finish external slopes. So, plastic or metal panels with a set of profiles specially designed for their installation are gaining more and more popularity. Such slopes are mounted according to the same principle as sandwich panels, and the empty space between the wall and the cladding is also insulated with mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam.

Thanks to modern materials and various auxiliary elements that appear at the disposal of home craftsmen, it is possible to choose the most suitable option - according to the degree of complexity of installation, in terms of operational and decorative qualities, and simply in terms of affordability.

As an example, take a look at another interesting technology - ready-made profile "thermo-slopes" made of expanded polystyrene.

Video: A quick and convenient way to insulate and finish external window slopes

Separately on each wall separately, working along the horizontal guide strips. Be careful when installing horizontal rails on adjacent walls - they must be at the same level. Even with a slight mismatch in levels, the vertical rows will diverge, and when reaching the ceiling, the horizontal rows will not coincide along the joint line above the door.

Facing the window opening

When facing a window opening, first cover the front wall with whole tiles, then lay and tile the side walls of the niche and the window sill.
If the door is in the center of the wall and you are tiling up to the ceiling, position the tiles to avoid narrow tiles next to the door and in the corners of the room.
If the door is in a corner, tile the two walls first, then trim and tile over the door.

Methods of facing a window niche are also used for facing a doorway.

Facing the window niche - step 1

If you are tiling a wall to a ceiling, install all full tiles to the side of the window, but not above the window. Attach a plank to the wall so that its top edge is flush with the bottom edge of the bottommost row of full tiles above the level of the top of the window. This strip will serve as a support for the whole tiles laid over the window.

Step 2

Place the trimmed tiles on the sides of the window. Start at the windowsill.
You may need to make an L-cut or use wire cutters to fit the tiles to the windowsill. To make trimming your tiles easier, plan your placement in advance.

Step 3

If you want to make an L-cut in the tile, mark the cut lines on the face of the tile. Hold the tile in a vise between the pieces of wood and make the first cut with the saw. Make a second cut and break off a piece of tile; clean the edges with a file. Clamp thin tiles horizontally so that they do not crack.

Step 4

Let the mastic set, then remove the plank at the top of the window and place the rest of the tiles on the wall. Corner tiles may need to be trimmed in an L. To avoid the need for narrow strips that are difficult to cut, plan your tile placement in advance.

Step 5

If you want to cut a narrow strip from the tile, make a notch along the cut line with a cutter, then break off the excess pieces with pliers. Clean the edge with a tile file. (After making a curved cut with a hand cutter, you can make a cut of the corresponding shape with pliers.)

Step 6

Lay entire tiles inside the window niche. If the tiles do not have spacers, use spacers to create a cemented gap between the lower tiles and the window sill.

Step 7

• Finally, measure and cut each tile to fit the adjacent window frame portion of the sidewall of the window niche. After the mastic has set (after about 4 hours), the joints can be cemented.
• In the inner corner, cut and lay the tiles of the last vertical row on one wall so that they fit into the corner.
• Then lay the last vertical row of tiles on the second wall, using the spacers to create a cemented gap in the corner between the two vertical rows.
• At the outer corner, lay whole tiles on each side of the corner.

Drawings of tiling in the corners

Tiling window and door slopes in the kitchen and in the bathroom can become one of the most noticeable "highlights" of the created interior. In this case, all requirements will be taken into account, and practicality will become one of the main advantages of the design.

Ceramics has many positive qualities: strength, high wear resistance, durability, minimal water absorption, hygiene, does not allow electric current, fire safety, environmental friendliness, affordable cost, decorative effect and a wide selection of colors, shapes and sizes.

The main condition, without which the work will not be performed efficiently, is a good preparation of the base for the tiles. Slopes and other surfaces to be trimmed must be flat. You need to prepare them in advance. There are several methods for leveling slopes: using plaster, drywall or chipboard. It is especially important to make competent insulation and exclude the possibility of freezing of corners or any other parts of the slope. In bathrooms and other damp areas of the house, you will need to pre-treat the base with impregnations or primers that create additional protection against moisture.

It is impossible to do without trimming some parts and therefore it is necessary to have a special tool and skills in handling it. In the absence of experience, it will not be possible to perform a high-quality finish, and in such a situation it is better to entrust the matter to professionals, or pay attention to the mosaic or small-sized details. In most cases, they are easier to work with and virtually no pruning is required.

In general, a "tile" can mean many types of coating. Some are more suitable, others less. You will have to choose from the following types of tiles:

Tile. Traditional ceramic tiles, suitable in all respects. Easy to clean, looks beautiful, huge range of colors. Sometimes you can get by with the minimum number of cut parts if you choose the right size.

Porcelain stoneware is more difficult to process, almost all elements will require trimming due to their large size. However, you can search for a suitable model. Finishing with such a tile is suitable, mainly for wide door slopes, where a minimum of parts will need to be cut. It looks beautiful and lasts a very long time. It is worth stopping at models with a glossy or glazed finish.

The design of doors and windows with brick-like tiles looks beautiful. If the interior is decorated in a style that assumes the presence of brick surfaces, such a decor for a window or doorway will be very appropriate.

It is better not to use tiles imitating stone for interior slopes in the kitchen. The surface of such a tile, as a rule, has a complex texture and gets very dirty. The grease and grime typical of kitchens will quickly spoil the appearance of the surface. If you paint the parts with varnish, it will be easier to clean them, but still it is not the most suitable option.

Mosaic. One of the best options if you have no experience in finishing and tiling. The dimensions of the individual elements are small, which allows for precise fit without trimming parts and simplifies work. At the same time, it looks original and beautiful. This tile trim on door slopes looks good in the bathroom.

Clinker clinker slopes are most often used for outdoor decoration. Some types of exterior design of the house provide for framing windows and doors with brick or stone, clinker in this case will be an excellent choice. Only you need to choose products for outdoor facing work.

Before starting work, try on the parts locally and decide on the layout. The layout scheme should be selected in such a way that the width of the tiles coincides on both sides and the tile joints coincide in all planes.

It is necessary to lay out the tiles, starting from the corner. The principle is the same as when laying tiles on the wall - first, the first bottom row is laid out.

Before gluing the tiles, special metal or plastic perforated corners are attached to the corners, giving the edges the correct shape.

To make the corners look pretty, you can use corner trimming to create even corner joints (the joint will be almost perfect), or you can use special decorative elements for corner joints.

Remember to prime all tiled surfaces first. start from the corner. When laying, the masonry elements are tightly pressed against each other, leaving no seams. If you want the seams to be, plastic pegs are inserted between the parts.

Seams are filled with grouting mixture using a construction syringe. The grout is spread over the joint with a brush.

During the repair or replacement of a window, questions about finishing the slopes always arise quite acutely. And the main one is which material to choose.
There can be many options from simple plastering and painting to finishing with plasterboard or sandwich panels. No less popular is the facing of windows with tiles - tiled, ceramic or imitating natural stone.
We will talk about it further.

The choice of this or that tile and the method of its installation depends on such factors as the purpose of the room, the requirements for its sanitary condition, the general design, and the personal preferences of the owner.
For example, in the kitchen, an artificial stone with a chipped surface is unlikely to be appropriate, since it will be difficult to wash it from grease and soot. But in the living room, decorated in the appropriate style, or on the loggia, it will look great.
But smooth tile or ceramic tiles for window cladding are great for kitchens and bathrooms, they can also be used in residential and public spaces for finishing slopes, if it fits into the overall concept of the interior. The advantages of this material are obvious.
It:

• Excellent appearance, variety of colors and textures of the decorative surface;
• Resistance to mechanical damage;
• High hygienic properties, easy care;
• Strength, reliability and durability of the coating;
• Additional fixation of the window frame in the opening.

Unfortunately, the advantages of the tile do not include the low price and ease of installation - some experience, patience and accuracy are required for its implementation. But the result will compensate you for all the costs and labor costs.

Methods for cladding window openings with tiles

Depending on the type of tile selected, it can be used to veneer only slopes or slopes and the perimeter of the opening. Often, the entire wall with a window is finished with tiles.
Let's start with the simplest option.

Facing the opening with brick or stone tiles

The basis of raw materials for the production of such tiles is gypsum or cement, mixed with various fillers and dyes. It can imitate brick or sawn stone with smooth edges and standard dimensions, or it can be deliberately rough, with ragged edges and "chipped" surface.
Decorating slopes with textured tiles is easy enough to do with your own hands, since it is not necessary to level the surface for this. And special corner pieces eliminate the need to join the tiles at the outer corners.

Advice. Look for decorative tiles that have been painted over their entire thickness, not just the front surface. In the event of a chip, scratch or other damage, these defects will be almost invisible.

The sequence of work is as follows:

• Make notches over the entire surface to be coated to ensure good adhesion to the adhesive;
• Prime the window slopes;
• Apply to the surface the glue recommended by the manufacturer for the selected material. It can be either cement-based tile adhesive, or liquid nails or sealant;
• Glue the tiles in horizontal rows, starting from the corners and fitting them tightly to each other, leaving no seams;
• If tiles need to be cut to length, use a regular hacksaw (for plaster products) or a circular saw (for cement products);
• Remove any glue on the front surface immediately with a cloth.

With such a finish, as a rule, only the tiles adjacent to the window frame have to be cut. And on the plane adjacent to the slope of the wall, it is laid out in a free order, forming an uneven edge.

Facing slopes with ceramic tiles

If you only intend to clad window openings with tiles with wall decoration with another material, then you will have to decide how to decorate the joints in the corners. But first, the slopes must be carefully leveled, achieving the verticality of the side and the horizontalness of the upper plane (and the lower one, if the tiles will also be laid on the windowsill).
Leveling can be carried out both with a plaster mixture and with sheet materials - drywall, chipboard, DSP, OSB, etc.

Advice. If you are attracted only by the appearance of tiled slopes, you can simplify your task by using moisture-resistant fiberboards lined with decorative film under the tiles for leveling and simultaneously decorating window openings.

Before finishing, consider the following guidelines:

• After leveling the slopes, it is necessary to lay out the tiles without glue in order to determine its best location. Avoid narrow elements at the joints of adjacent surfaces - it looks ugly.
• For example, if the height of the side plane is not a multiple of the dimensions of the tile, then you will have to start facing not with a whole, but with a tile cut in height so that the top piece has the same size.
• If the width of the slopes is greater than the width of the tile, then the whole is laid along the outer edge, and the space between it and the window frame is filled with pieces cut to size.
• Tiling the window sill is carried out last, when the upper and side slopes are already pasted over.
• Some difficulties may arise when facing the upper plane - the tiles, under the influence of their own weight, may not be held by the glue. To prevent this from happening, use wooden struts, which must support the tile until the adhesive sets.
• Grout the joints after the glue has completely dried - the next day.

As for decorating the junction of the tile with the wall, this can be done in two ways - using overhead corners or special layouts.
In the first case, corners made of plastic, aluminum or MDF are cut to size and sawn down on the front side at 45 degrees. Then they are glued to the acrylic sealant.

Aluminum or plastic layouts, which come in a wide variety of colors, are selected based on the thickness of the tiles. They are planted on glue along the entire perimeter of the opening even before the tiles are laid, as shown in the figure.

The whole process of finishing the slopes with tiles is well shown in the video posted in the article. If you want to do this work yourself, be sure to check it out.

Wall tiling with window

The most difficult thing is to tiling a window opening with tiles, if the entire wall with a window is finished with it. Here it is very important to choose such a layout scheme so that the width of the tiles on both sides of the window is the same, and very narrow strips do not have to be glued on top and bottom.
In this article, we will not describe in detail how to properly paste over the wall so that all horizontal and vertical seams match perfectly - instructions for performing this work are given in the corresponding material on the site.
Let's go directly to window decoration:

• When the entire wall up to the window sill is tiled, continue laying along the sides of the window, using only whole tiles, until the horizontal row rises above the top edge of the opening.
• Take a flat wooden plank and fix it over the opening so that its top edge coincides with the line connecting the bottom edges of whole tiles located above the opening level.

• After laying the whole tile around the window, you can start cladding the areas around the slopes with cut pieces. You need to start from the bottom, pasting the wall under the windowsill. Here, the extreme tiles will have to be cut with a corner, so a tile cutter will not help you - use a grinder.
• Then the sides are veneered. While you are doing this, the adhesive under the top row of the tiles will set and the support bar can be carefully removed and glue the space above the window.
• Further - the direct facing of window sills with tiles, side and upper slopes according to the scheme indicated in the previous chapter.

It should be noted that in addition to the two ways of decorating corners already described above, in the case of wall tiles, a third option is also possible. This is a docking of perpendicular tiles at an angle of 45 degrees.
It is important to say that this method is available only to experienced professionals, since only a specialist who has performed this procedure more than once will be able to accurately remove the chamfer without damaging the front decorative enamel.

Conclusion

There is no doubt that facing tiles for windows are a very practical and beautiful material that allows you to refine the interior and simplify window care. But not everyone will undertake to work with it, guaranteeing the perfect result.
If you like this particular finishing option, but you are not confident in your abilities, do not risk it - use the services of an experienced master.

DIY window slopes and window sill

How to make slopes and a drywall window sill with your own hands, photos of the phased production and finishing of slopes and a window sill with ceramic tiles ...

Many homeowners, when replacing a window, come to the idea of ​​how to finish the window slopes, and the prospect of installing a white plastic window sill does not please everyone.

An alternative to plastic is a window sill frame made of a metal profile, followed by plastering the frame and window slopes with gypsum plasterboard, after which ceramic tiles are laid on the plasterboard base.

The strength of such a window sill is not inferior to a plastic one, and the possibility of finishing the slopes and window sill with tiles, of any shade and texture, will allow you to create a beautiful and unique window in your home.

Someone will say that such slopes are cold, and the sandwich panel slope is much warmer, this is not the case.

The plasterboard slope is attached with a gap from the stone opening, and the free space is filled with foam, the foam creates a barrier to the cold, so the inside of the slopes is protected from freezing.

The main advantages of tile: not afraid of moisture, does not get dirty and is easy to clean.

DIY windowsill and slopes

When making a wide window sill, one must not forget about the access of warm air from the heating radiator to the glass; for this, special technological holes for the passage of air can be provided in the window sill.

The air holes can be covered with a decorative grille.

When ordering a window, you need to take into account the gaps along the frame, since gypsum boards are wound behind the frame.
An old concrete sill, in this case, will serve as a good foundation.

Window sill installation

The distance from the old window sill to the window frame should allow the installation of a metal profile.

The foam that has emerged during the installation of the window unit is removed. For this, a knife with replaceable blades was used.

A metal profile is mounted under the window frame with a preliminary clearance for gypsum plasterboard, in place for a plastic window sill, using self-tapping screws.

Small pieces of the profile are mounted on the old window sill after 20-25 cm, they will hold the upper part of the window sill.

Cross sections are inserted into the bottom profiles and fastened with self-tapping screws. The upper profile is made with a ledge outside the old window sill. The main thing is not to forget to check the level, all the guides must be in the same plane.

To give the window sill additional rigidity and give it a non-standard look. The window sill will go to the wall, where a piece of the profile is attached to its continuation.

A horizontal guide is put on short profiles (the end of the window sill). Control is carried out using a level.

This is what the upper part of the window sill frame looks like.

To strengthen the structure and add volume to the window sill, another profile is screwed to the lower end of the guide using self-tapping screws.

We screw in the missing screws.

Using a metal profile, we form the lower part of the window sill.

To prevent the window sill from appearing thin, we make it more massive. To do this, it expands using vertical guides that are fixed to the upper profile.

From the bottom, on the vertical guides, put on a long profile (bottom of the window sill) and screwed onto the short vertical guides.

The lower part of the structure is manufactured locally. And it is fixed to the wall and the end of the new window sill.

The window sill frame is ready

The frame of the window sill from the metal profile can be made in any other way, reducing or increasing the number of stiffeners.

The meaning of the frame is that it creates rigidity and withstands the load exerted on the windowsill.

Installation of drywall on the window sill frame

Cut out the upper part of the window sill from the drywall. For this, it is convenient to use a fine-toothed hacksaw for wood.

We mark on the gypsum where the guides from the metal profile are located, this will help not to miss when screwing in the screws.

To eliminate the likelihood of the slightest drafts, the joint between the gypsum wall and the window is coated with a sealant.

Having previously secured the lower part of the gypsum board to the window sill frame, we fill all the space between the guides with foam.

Polyurethane foam must be used with a low coefficient of expansion, otherwise, the foam will squeeze out the plasterboard, and the work may be ruined.

After filling with polyurethane foam, the upper part of plasterboard is laid and fixed on self-tapping screws.

The end part is also made of plasterboard, and is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. A temporary profile is attached to the bottom of the window sill, it will prevent tiles from vertical sliding during installation.

Installation of plasterboard slopes

Having cut out the upper part of the slope from drywall, having previously placed it under the frame, we fix it to the base using self-tapping screws and dowels. Between the plasterboard slope and the wall, there should be a gap that will subsequently be filled with foam.

We check the surface of the slope using a level; the slope should be strictly vertical and not have dips and bumps.

Thus, all window slopes are fastened.

The gap between the wall and the plasterboard is foamed with polyurethane foam, to fill the gaps, it is better to use low expansion polyurethane foam. When filling the gaps with foam, be careful and remember that the foam expands very strongly, so you need to fill the space in a dosage.

Tiling slopes and window sills

If desired, the window sill can be finished with anything: plastic, natural wood, etc.

In this case, it was decided to use tiles, since they are not afraid of moisture, sunlight and temperature extremes.

For finishing the edge of the window sill, you can use a special metal profile.

We prepare blanks for laying the profile along the perimeter of the window sill, for mating the profile at the corners, we saw it down with a miter box.

You can cut a corner, or any other fragment, on a ceramic tile using an angle grinder (grinder); for cutting tiles, we use a stone disc. When cutting, a lot of dust is generated, a respirator and goggles must be worn.

We prepare tile glue, and apply it to the window sill using a notched trowel, lay a decorative corner around the perimeter of the window sill.

We put the tiles on the glue, from the side of the window, the tiles are placed in the butt to the frame of the window block.

Having laid the tiles on the surface of the windowsill, you can lay out the end part using pre-cut or ready-made tiles.

Side slopes can be tiled using decor, or a different shade of tiles.

The protruding polyurethane foam is cut off, the wall around the slopes, if necessary, is leveled along the slopes using a plaster mixture and putty.

The seams between the tiles are rubbed, the seam between the window and the tile is filled with a sealant in the color of the grout.

The corner of the slopes is closed with a plastic corner that is glued to the mounting glue, in addition, the window can be framed around the perimeter, using, for example, a wooden platband.

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Nickname:

 

	Cool. But it really decorates the room so cool. And all non-standard and no one will have such a thing.
	I wanted to ask if such a window sill is durable? It just seems to me that the construction of plasterboard is not very credible.
	Giprok and metal profiles are much stronger than a plastic window sill, but it is better not to lean on a plastic one if it is wider than 25 cm.
	Fine! If with the same ease it was possible to howl without reagents between the glasses to remove air, for self-production of a double-glazed window!))
	the principle of a double-glazed unit is the distance between the glasses, and in it there is an ordinary selikogel, the space between the glasses is poured with melted thermal glue.
	You can't stand on such a "horse-drawn" one ... Although it's cool.
	I have a window sill made according to this principle and also trimmed with tiles, I can say that it is many times stronger than plastic. But you can hardly stand on the plastic one.
	Window sills and countertops in the modern world can be made from epoxy resin. Design options are countless. Photo and manufacturing technology is on (LINK REDACTED BY MODERATOR)
	what are the dimensions of the profile?
	So this is how you can see in the picture the guide ceiling profile 27x28, because the economical one looks much less.
	I chose a window sill from Hanex for the loggia. I fell for the price. Well, I bought it, installed it, but it began to fade in the sun specifically. As a result, now the window sill is spotty of some kind, there is no kind
	Normal option for an outstanding homeowner. Plastic window sills look wretched and begin to sag at great depths. Here, in principle, if there are concerns about strength, you can insert an iron channel, but I think it is already strong enough.
	This option is feasible only for people with hands, and a common man has to call window-operators and put plastic. It's simple - a slope and a window sill made of tiles will take at least TWO days to work (for 1 day we make a window sill body and put slopes, for 2 day we put tiles and grind the seams) And the foremen told me so: We only benefit from what can be done in one day! So ask them to plaster the outer or inner slope! They will tell you that no one is doing it now)))

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