How to make a sealing gasket or ring from assembly (construction) silicone. How to drill hardened steel at home How to cut a hole in thick rubber

Modern industry produces many different types of rubber used in the most unexpected industries. Quite simply and quickly, you can find the right rubber gasket or the necessary rubber blank at the nearest bazaar. However, if you still need to make a rubber product with your own hands, then a couple of simple tips on how you can simply and accurately cut rubber will come in handy.

How to cut rubber with a knife:

Rubber can be quite diverse in its properties, ranging from a very elastic and rather pliable material to elastic, durable rubber plates. The use of rubber can be found in a wide variety of ways, for example, to cut a suitable plumbing gasket, a heel for boots, or a non-slip support for a glass surface. Many carve out various kinds of animals from car tires, swings, or make interior items. You can make flower beds from car tires, but for this you need to know how and with what to cut a car tire.

The secret is very simple, in order to carefully and simply cut a piece of rubber, you will need a sharp knife, of course 🙂, and ordinary water.

A piece of elastic rubber, a sharp knife and water.

First you need to outline the line of the cut (it was enough for me to simply set the knife blade evenly).

We begin to cut the rubber with a knife.

Cutting thick rubber with a knife becomes quite difficult as the blade deepens into the thickness. Rubber starts to become viscous, and if overzealous, the rubber can even melt. To prevent this from happening, and the knife went through the rubber like clockwork, it must be moistened with water (and not with oil, in no case should it be moistened with oil).

Wet the rubber with water and cut with a knife.

The rubber becomes slippery when wet, and the blade of the knife will not get stuck and melt the rubber, thus you will get a smooth and high-quality cut without much effort.

A rubber block cut with water.

How to make a round hole in rubber:

Sometimes there is a need to cut rubber circles, for example, for non-slip legs under a stool, heels, or for gaskets between two glasses. In order to cut rubber mugs of an even shape, you need to choose a metal pipe of a suitable diameter, you will also need a piston that is suitable for the diameter of the tube.

A - metal tube, B - piston

You need to sharpen the edge of the iron tube with a sharpener or file.

Sharpened Iron Pipe

After you sharpen the tube, you need to insert it into the drill chuck, moisten the rubber with water and just start drilling holes, after laying the piece of wood.

Drilling round rubber gaskets

With the help of such a simple device and water, you can drill as many smooth, neat rubber rounds as you like (I use them to make non-slip legs for appliances). The sharpened tube acts on the principle of a drill, but as the circles are drilled, it is filled with them, and in order to pull them out, a special piston is needed. You then simply push the rubber rounds out of the sharpened tube.

Squeezing the rubber bands out of the tube with a piston

The main thing is not to forget to wet the rubber with water when drilling or cutting. It should be noted that cutting a circle using a sharpened tube is much easier and more convenient than using a drill in the classical way. However, if you need to drill through the rubber with a drill, it is also quite simple to do this by first sharpening it sharply, and periodically dipping the drill into the water.

It is necessary to drill rubber at low speeds and periodically wetting the cutting edge. However, if you need to drill through a large block of rubber at high RPM, you may want to submerge it completely in water.

Drilling rubber in water with a drill.

In the most extreme case, holes in thin rubber, as in plastic, can be melted by heating the drill shank or iron tube with a lighter.

Holes melted into the rubber

Most importantly, be careful when working with hot metal. Also remember that rubber can release toxic substances when overheated, so melt holes under a hood or in a well-ventilated area. Follow all safety regulations even when drilling rubber.

To improve the basic characteristics of the metal, it is often hardened. This technology provides for increasing the hardness of the product due to the strong heating of the metal and its rapid cooling. In some cases, after heat treatment, it is necessary to perform drilling. By increasing this characteristic, it becomes more difficult to drill hardened metal. Consider all the features of drilling hardened steel in more detail.

Drilling a hole in hardened steel

The spread of the question of how to drill hardened steel can be attributed to the fact that when using conventional technology, the tool quickly becomes dull and becomes unusable. That is why it is necessary to pay attention to the features of drilling a hardened alloy. Among the features of the technology, we note the following points:

It is necessary to properly prepare the hardened workpiece.
In some cases, a special tool is required.
coolant is used.

If necessary, you can make a drill for hardened steel with your own hands, which requires certain equipment and skills. However, in most cases, a purchased version is used, as it will do a better job when cutting hardened steel.

Nuances when drilling

The technology under consideration has a fairly large number of features that need to be considered. Drilling of hardened metal is carried out taking into account the following points:

Before carrying out work, attention should be paid to the hardness of the surface. According to this parameter, the most suitable drill is selected. Hardness can be determined using a variety of technologies.
During drilling, a large amount of heat is generated. That is why there is a rapid wear of the cutting edge. In this regard, in many cases, a liquid is supplied to the cutting zone for cooling.
When cutting difficult-to-cut material, it is necessary to sharpen the cutting edge from time to time. For this, a conventional grinding machine or a special tool is used. Only a diamond-coated wheel is suitable as an abrasive.

There are various methods for cutting hardened steel. Some of them greatly simplify the processing. Only when all the nuances are taken into account can the quality of the resulting hole be improved.

Useful tips for drilling

A variety of technologies can be used to work with hardened steel. The most common technologies are characterized by the following features:

Acid surface treatment. This technology is characterized by long-term use, since it takes quite a long time to reduce the surface hardness. For etching, sulfuric, perchloric or other acid can be used. The procedure involves the creation of a ledge that will contain the applied substance in the cutting zone. After prolonged exposure, the metal becomes softer, it will be possible to drill using the normal version.
You can use the welding machine to achieve your goal. When exposed to high temperature, the metal becomes softer, which greatly simplifies the procedure.
Most often, a special drill is used. On sale there are options that can be used for processing hardened steel. In their manufacture, metal is used with increased resistance to wear and high temperatures. However, the complexity of manufacturing and some other points determine that the cost of a special tool is quite high.

In addition, a punch is often purchased to achieve the goal. With it, you can make a small hole, which will simplify further drilling.

Use of lubricants

When drilling hardened steel, serious friction occurs. That is why it is recommended to purchase and use various lubricants. Among the features of this processing method, we note the following points:

To begin with, the drilling zone is processed. A small amount of lubricant is applied to the surface where the hole will be.
Oil is added to the cutting edge. To process hardened steel, a small amount of substance is required, but it must be added from time to time, since it scatters when the tool rotates.
During operation, it is recommended to take breaks to cool the cutting surface and the work surface.

Special oil allows not only to simplify drilling, but also to increase the service life of the tool used.

This is because the oil can lower the temperature of the cutting edge.

Drill selection

Quite widespread are twist drills, which are represented by a vertical rod with two grooves. Due to the specific arrangement of the grooves, a cutting edge is formed. Among the features of the choice, we note the following points:

Quite a wide distribution was received by a victorious drill. It can be used to work with various hardened alloys. However, a surface with too high hardness cannot be machined with such a tool.
The choice is also made according to the diameter. It should be borne in mind that getting a large diameter hole is quite difficult. The larger diameter version is much more expensive due to the use of a large amount of material in its manufacture.
Attention is also paid to the angle of sharpening, the purpose of the product and the type of material used in the manufacture. For example, cobalt versions are characterized by higher resistance to high temperatures.
It is recommended to pay attention to products of exclusively well-known manufacturers. This is due to the fact that Chinese versions are made using low-quality materials. However, such an offer is much cheaper and can be used for short-term or one-time work.
When choosing a drill, you can navigate by the applied markings. It can be used to determine which materials were used in the manufacture. The diameter of the hole that can be obtained using the tool is also indicated.

In a specialized store you can find almost everything you need to carry out the work. However, the rather high cost of the product and some other points determine that some decide to make a drill on their own from improvised materials. Similar work can be carried out with the required tools.

Making a homemade drill

If necessary, it is possible to manufacture a drill from hardened steel. Among the main recommendations for carrying out such work, we note:

Rods are selected, which are made of tungsten and cobalt alloys. In the people, such a metal is called victorious. Compared to a conventional drill, this version is characterized by increased wear resistance.
To process the workpiece, you need to fix it in a small vise. Otherwise, the work will be quite difficult.
To sharpen such a surface, a diamond stone is required. Ordinary will not withstand long-term work.
The end surface is sharpened in such a way that a surface resembling a flat screwdriver is obtained. After that, the cutting edges are sharpened to obtain a sharp tip.

In order to reduce the degree of surface machinability, oil is added. This ensures long-term processing due to the reduction of the friction force and the decrease in temperature.

In conclusion, we note that the processing of hardened steel should be carried out exclusively with the use of special tools. A drilling machine is required for work, since a manual one will not allow you to get the required hole.

As an experiment, I decided to try to make o-rings for this faucet spout, since purchased oil seals have been more and more disappointing lately. I thought about replacing the factory seals with ordinary rings of a suitable diameter, but somehow I couldn’t find them at the nearest auto parts store. It is possible, of course, to increase the diameter of the seat under the gland in the body of the mixer, so that the factory gland sits more tightly in its place and adjoins the spout. But for starters, I decided to try out the rings of my own production, if it doesn’t work, then I’ll have to deal with the mixer or spout itself.

I borrowed the idea itself from the Internet, where a person machined a mold for rings in a piece of plexiglass. I decided to use ordinary paraffin for this, so that in case of an error, refill it and start sharpening again. Since the rings I need are not particularly thick, I decided to pour paraffin into a regular canning lid. We mark the center on it, for this I just stuck it with a magnet on the jaws of a screwdriver. After that, periodically turning on the screwdriver, he centered the position of the cover on the jaws in order to get rid of strong beats. Then, on the rotating lid, I put a ring mark in the middle with a marker.

We punch the center in the lid with an awl, after which we drill a hole for a suitable screw. Since the lid tin is thin, it is better to put washers under the nut and bolt. Let's tighten it all up.

We clamp the thread of the screw or bolt into a screwdriver and check for possible runout. We do not need special accuracy, since we will sharpen at low speeds. The main thing is that the plane of the cover is strictly perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the screwdriver. For this reason, it is better to use something thick-walled or put washers under the nut and bolt.

If everything is within the normal range, then put the lid on the fire and melt the paraffin in it. It should be borne in mind that the paraffin is significantly precipitated during cooling. Therefore, the thickness of the paraffin filling should be made almost twice as thick as the silicone ring we need.

After filling the lid with paraffin, leave it to cool.

We clamp the lid into the drill and make a trial inclusion. We do not set high speeds, since paraffin is easily and quickly processed at low speeds, moreover, there is less chance of making a mistake. If necessary, with a knife or some kind of scraper, we level the plane for future marking. If there is a beating of the plane, then when leveling you will feel them, since the knife at the beginning of the leveling will only remove one side of the plane.

I need to get almost the same ring as the factory one, maybe a little thicker. Therefore, I decided to cut a groove of such a size that the factory ring would simply sink flush into it. We put the old ring on the paraffin, center it, periodically turning on the screwdriver.

Moving it a little to the side, we put a mark on paraffin under it.

Then, turning on the screwdriver, we beat off the circle along this mark.

After that, we transfer the dimensions of the ring we need to paraffin, starting in size from the circle that we beat off earlier.

After we have done all the markup, we proceed to turning work.

With a screwdriver or some kind of scraper, we grind the groove to the desired depth, periodically checking its dimensions.

Five to ten minutes of work and the groove is ready. What is good about paraffin is that it is easily processed, you can almost sharpen it with a fingernail. But this is also its minus, you need to do everything very carefully, since you can easily ruin everything with one awkward movement.

We take out the form from the drill, after which we carefully fill the groove with silicone, trying to smooth the silicone flush with the paraffin. All this is best done with a piece of even plastic or cardboard, but relatively soft, so as not to damage the paraffin form. When filling with silicone, we try to avoid the formation of air bubbles.

We dry for a week, after which we remove the ring.

From acid silicone, some kind of slippery substance remains on the form. It is easily washed off in lukewarm running water and soap. You don’t even need to touch the form, just pour soapy water from your hand onto the form until this fat stops shining on paraffin.

Then we fill the mold with silicone again and dry it.

Cut off the excess film and the gaskets are ready.

In general, now these rings are waiting for their turn to be installed in the mixer, since the factory ones (which I recently installed) have not yet worn out. In addition, there is time to see what will happen to them in a couple of months, since some silicones tend to shrink in size. I thought that paraffin dissolves with little, but still noticed that it turns slightly white from contact with silicone, perhaps some kind of reaction occurs. But this did not seem to affect the shape of the rings in any way, the second ring was the same as the first, nothing corroded and did not dissolve. It seems like there are neutral silicones, most likely nothing will happen to paraffin with them. But if you need a lot of spacers, then it is probably better to grind the mold in some kind of plastic (plexiglass, etc.), then this mold will be more durable and strong.

The design of a bidet for an ordinary toilet turned out to be quite simple and accessible for repetition by almost any home master.

Eyeliner in the toilet bowl water for the bidet fountain

The first and most difficult question was the question of how to bring water into the toilet bowl. I did not want to fix the tube with the fitting on the toilet lid, since the lid periodically has to be removed for washing. Drilling a hole in a faience toilet is not an easy task, and the toilet can crack. Another visual inspection of the toilet to find a way to lay the bidet conduit suggested a simple solution.

Since the tube is flexible, it, having passed through the winding conduit of the toilet bowl, at the entrance to its bowl, was oriented arbitrarily with the end face. To give the desired direction and the possibility of fixing the tube, as well as to be able to fix the nozzle on it, one of the brass knees of the aforementioned telescopic antenna with a diameter of 4 mm and a length of 150 mm was inserted inside the tube after threading, from the side of the toilet bowl. With an internal diameter of the bidet tube of 4.5 mm, the knee was easily inserted, but it could be removed only with considerable effort.

Next, the bidet tube with the inserted antenna elbow was pushed back into the toilet water conduit. Since the conduit is not rectilinear, but the tube is straight, then, resting against the walls of the conduit, it was firmly fixed in it, even slightly bent. It was a pleasant surprise, the issue of fixing the tube for the bidet was decided by itself.

Previously, in the immediate vicinity of the end, a rectangular hole was made in the brass tube on the side surface for the passage of water into the nozzle.

In the photo you can see how the tube for the bidet fountain was installed in the toilet bowl. It turned out much better than I expected. It remains to invent and make a nozzle.

One of the main requirements for the materials of the bidet conduit is corrosion resistance, so plastic and brass were used. There are additional requirements for the fountain nozzle, the material must be antibacterial. From the available materials, meeting all these requirements, it turned out to be fluoroplastic, also called teflon. Fluoroplast is resistant to the external environment, it does not dissolve even in aqua regia. Nothing sticks to it, not even bacteria and fungi. Has a snow-white color and is easily processed. The ideal material for making bidet nozzles.

A hole 4 mm in diameter is drilled along the center of a rectangular blank made of fluoroplastic 10 × 10 × 30 mm in size, to a depth of 25 mm. To determine the angle at which it will be necessary to drill holes for the fountain, I put the future nozzle on the installed brass tube in the toilet bowl, attached the ruler to the workpiece so that its edge passed through the center of the toilet bowl and drew a line on the workpiece. If the workpiece is weakly held on a brass tube, then the end of the brass tube needs to be slightly flared.

First, one hole with a diameter of 1 mm for the fountain is drilled in the workpiece, then after testing, if the jet hits where it was intended, this hole is reamed to 2 mm (determined empirically). To check the correct angle of drilling holes, the workpiece is put on a brass tube, voltage is applied to the solenoid valve, the desired pressure of the fountain is set with the valve.

After giving the nozzle the desired shape with the help of processing on the emery column, you can proceed with the installation of the bidet system in the toilet.

The removable design of the nozzle allows you to choose the optimal angle and number of holes in it during operation. At the same time, thanks to a rectangular hole in the brass tube, it is possible to drill holes in the nozzle from four sides and turn it 90 ° to select the washing mode you like.

Installing a bidet in a toilet

To install the proposed design of the bidet in the toilet, it is necessary to dismantle the drain tank. The flush tank is attached to the toilet seat with two M10 threaded bolts. Bolts with rubber gaskets dressed on them are inserted from the inside of the drain tank, pass through the holes in the toilet bowl and from below also through the rubber gaskets, are tightened with nuts.

Difficulties may arise when performing this work if the bolts are made of steel and are heavily corroded. It is necessary to prepare a set of fasteners for replacement in advance. When I installed the toilet, I immediately replaced the steel bolts with stainless steel studs, and replaced the nuts with caprolon nuts. For 12 years of operation, the appearance of the fasteners has not changed, and the nuts were unscrewed with ease.

After releasing the drain tank from the bolts, you need to remove it from the toilet bowl. If a flexible hose allows, then you can put a stool next to the toilet and temporarily place a drain tank on it. A picture will open before your eyes, as in the photo below.

White marks on the site, this is silicone applied when installing the cistern. Before installing a new rubber gasket, they must be removed. The gasket was in excellent condition and could be left on. But a hole had already been drilled in the new one, and it had to be installed.

Before installing the gasket, you need to thread the bidet tube into the drilled hole, pass it through the drain hole and the toilet water conduit into the bowl, insert the brass tube into the bidet tube. Next, fix the resulting structure in the water conduit of the toilet bowl, as in the experiment.

Just in case, it is advisable to give slack to the bidet tube in the form of a ring placed in the toilet drain hole.

When installing the drain tank on the toilet bowl gasket, it was found that the saddle of the drain hole in the tank acts as a ring with a nut fixing it from the tank and squeezes the hose for supplying water to the bidet. I had to make a sample in the plastic ring and nut with a round file at the place where the tube passed.

After that, the drain tank is installed in place, fixed with bolts and the water supply through the bidet tube is checked. Further, the fittings removed earlier are installed in the drain tank and the tank is closed with a lid.

The mechanical part of working with the toilet to equip it with an additional function of a bidet and water supply is over.

Outwardly, the toilet bowl has not changed, only a small snow-white bidet nozzle in the form of a drop has appeared in its bowl, a fountain of water from which will always be ready to satisfy your hygiene needs.

In the cold season, the water in the water supply is cold and can cause discomfort during hygiene procedures. To do this, water can be passed through a buffer tank, in which it will be heated to room temperature.

You can not install a solenoid valve, controlling the water supply by rotating the faucet valve. But it is much more convenient to solve this problem remotely, with the help of

How to cut rubber with a knife:

The secret is very simple, in order to neatly and simply cut a piece of rubber, you will need a sharp knife, of course. and ordinary water.

A piece of elastic rubber, a sharp knife and water.

First you need to outline the line of the cut (it was enough for me to simply set the knife blade evenly).

We begin to cut the rubber with a knife.

Wet the rubber with water and cut with a knife.

The rubber becomes slippery when wet, and the blade of the knife will not get stuck and melt the rubber, thus you will get a smooth and high-quality cut without much effort.

A rubber block cut with water.

How to make a round hole in rubber:

A - metal tube, B - piston

You need to sharpen the edge of the iron tube with a sharpener or file.

Sharpened Iron Pipe

After you sharpen the tube, you need to insert it into the drill chuck, moisten the rubber with water and just start drilling holes, after laying the piece of wood.

Drilling round rubber gaskets

Squeezing the rubber bands out of the tube with a piston

Drilling rubber in water with a drill.

In the most extreme case, holes in thin rubber, as in plastic, can be melted by heating the drill shank or iron tube with a lighter.

Holes melted into the rubber

How to make a sealing gasket or ring from assembly (construction) silicone

As an experiment, I decided to try to make sealing rings for this faucet spout, since purchased seals have become more and more disappointing lately. I thought about replacing the factory seals with ordinary rings of a suitable diameter, but somehow I couldn’t find them at the nearest auto parts store. It is possible, of course, to increase the diameter of the seat under the gland in the body of the mixer, so that the factory gland sits more tightly in its place and adjoins the spout. But for starters, I decided to try out the rings of my own production, if it doesn’t work, then I’ll have to deal with the mixer or spout itself.

We punch the center in the lid with an awl, after which we drill a hole for a suitable screw. Since the lid tin is thin, it is better to put washers under the nut and bolt. Let's tighten it all up.

After filling the lid with paraffin, leave it to cool.

We clamp the lid into the drill and make a trial inclusion.

Drilling plastics and rubber.

We do not set high speeds, since paraffin is easily and quickly processed at low speeds, moreover, there is less chance of making a mistake. If necessary, with a knife or some kind of scraper, we level the plane for future marking. If there is a beating of the plane, then when leveling you will feel them, since the knife at the beginning of the leveling will only remove one side of the plane.

Moving it a little to the side, we put a mark on paraffin under it.

Then, turning on the screwdriver, we beat off the circle along this mark.

After that, we transfer the dimensions of the ring we need to paraffin, starting in size from the circle that we beat off earlier.

After we have done all the markup, we proceed to turning work.

With a screwdriver or some kind of scraper, we grind the groove to the desired depth, periodically checking its dimensions.

We dry for a week, after which we remove the ring.

Then we fill the mold with silicone again and dry it.

Cut off the excess film and the gaskets are ready.

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How to drill (cut) a hole on F32 in a 40mm rubber sheet

chopokapra 30-09-2014 09:01

Kind vreieni of the day, actually the question is in the title of the topic. I have a piece of 40mm rubber just for the F200 circle, so I’m thinking how and with what to make a hole in it, I will be very grateful for the advice. Thanks in advance!

BOLT2000 30-09-2014 09:21

notch.

Anton42 30-09-2014 09:22

And it won't tear?
IMHO it is necessary at high speeds starting with a smaller diameter, again, HZ can melt. listen to smart people!

comrade Beria 30-09-2014 09:34

A familiar turner once mentioned the method of freezing rubber blanks. That is, he froze, and until she, hardened, did not move away, with her incisor, incisor In this case, with a crown.

kukobara 30-09-2014 09:36

Chemists have tubular rubber drills to make lab stoppers. It is a thin-walled tube with a sharpened edge. Holes are not cut, but drilled by hand. It is easy to make such a tube yourself. The difference from punching is that the hole is cylindrical, not conical.

sergVs 30-09-2014 09:40

The notch is definitely gut. If you find or have a place to do it. If not, then a circular cutter should help. Although at 40mm thickness you will have to work hard. Crowns are also an option, but the result strongly depends on the type of rubber (hard is most likely normal, soft - xs) and the edges will not be smooth. You have to try and maybe pick up the pace. Might not fit. There is an option to cut it out with a manual cutter, but the shape will most likely be far from ideal and take some time (but save on finding and buying special tools). Until nothing else comes to mind. Something like this.

Xoma Minsk 30-09-2014 09:41

The crowns can “chew” .. I made punctures with a narrow knife (on both sides), combined them into a “hole” of a much smaller diameter of arbitrary shape, then on the engraver I made a hole out of the hole with a drum with sandpaper. After that, I turned the outer diameter of the circle, putting it on the engine, the same engraver so as not to hit) Only the circle was F160.

Kromeshnik 30-09-2014 09:50

In 40 mm rubber, it will be difficult to cut at a time, repeated blows can take the center of the axial. At the time, in such a ballerina, I made cutters from fur fabric and drilled holes. Clean, even in rubber with non-metal cord, only you need to try to adjust the diameter.
Sincerely

alex-wolf 30-09-2014 10:01 Quote: Originally written by ktt:
http://www.bigturtle.ru/koronki-po-derevu-11.html
I think this is what it should be
this is a simple solution and the correct answer.
the ballerina (as in the picture from the previous post) will not help, the incisors will be clamped with rubber, this is only for wood, plastic and drywall.
a crown for metal, the very thing, with such a thickness. Wolf5862007 30-09-2014 10:02 quote: At the same time, in such a ballerina
+ 1. you can still use a drill bit at high speeds, unless of course the rubber is hard. max12312 30-09-2014 10:18

lubricate the tool with lard. if you cut by hand, take care of your hands, the cutter flies, where it was not pushed through.

Veger 30-09-2014 10:45

drill a thin hole, thread the file from the jigsaw and, with the control of both sides of the sheet, slowly cut it out. But, probably, the file will wedge. With butter?

sergVs 30-09-2014 10:58 Quote: Originally posted by Veger:

pass the file from the jigsaw and, with the control of both sides of the sheet, slowly cut out

But this is an interesting option. Not fast, but it should work. I would try. Laundry soap is often used as a lubricant when cutting rubber. That is, before sawing, rub the file with a bar of soap and repeat in the process. Something like this. Kromeshnik 30-09-2014 11:13 quote: ballerina (as in the picture from the previous post), will not help, the incisors will be clamped with rubber
I described it from personal experience, I tried to make typesetting rollers from sheet rubber, from conveyor belts, etc., the crowns do not give smooth edges, it is necessary to further process them later, the height of the crowns is limited. Again, I have not seen crowns for 200. An electric jigsaw, even with oil or solarium (as I was advised), is only suitable for cutting blanks because of the not very high cutting accuracy. "a cutter is a workpiece, it is possible in a lathe not with a cutter, but, let's say, with a large sandpaper (exactly but for a long time).
I made cutters for a ballerina with a rhombus (you can experiment, of course) lubrication is needed, in a machine tool (a drill is not needed)
Something like this.
Sincerely alex-wolf 30-09-2014 11:45

Although this will not get rid of the balancing problem ... .. as I understand it, the task is to adapt the wheel to an endless belt. So? the problem of balancing in this case can be solved in only one way, to reduce the speed of the grindstone ... .. and so, you get to balance a piece of rubber, and a heavy circle will turn out, which will create even greater and dangerous prerequisites. it’s better if you really want such a wheel, carve a lightweight one from lumin and rubberize it ...... something like this.

Xoma Minsk 30-09-2014 13:02

I made a rubber wheel with a diameter of either 160 or 180 for a long time. I described the technology above. I leveled it on the turned on grinder with the help of an engraver. At 1500 rpm. vibrations and beats were not found. And then it’s up to everyone to think or try) Rubber is not the most difficult material to process, and it takes a couple of hours. If you don’t like it, you can always throw it away)

Semyon Mikhalych 30-09-2014 14:00

I also have this circle.
But the hole was made not on the bushing on the grinder, but on the shaft itself, diameter 16.
The hole can be made on a lathe, or on a drilling tube drill, lubricated with water during operation.
By the way, this work will take less time than we spent here on posts.))

Shukher 30-09-2014 14:38

Fountain drill
Centering on small files.

serega91 30-09-2014 17:26

I cut this out using a sharpened piece of pipe of the desired diameter, an aerosol silicone lubricant and a 10t press.

Dmitry-471 30-09-2014 17:52

I cut holes up to 80mm in diameter on a lathe, just 40mm thick. I made a fixture for the tailstock, in the form of a thin-walled pipe sharpened from the inside and with a cutout for removing a drilled rubber chop. I poured it with ordinary machine oil, which was at hand. Up to 50mm leads are smooth. The heating is quite strong, with smoke, the smell of burnt rubber. The result suited me.
Sincerely, Dmitry.

arcuda 30-09-2014 17:57

About 25 years ago, on a lathe, various rotation bodies were sharpened from very dense rubber (as dies for casting), with a diameter of 150-200 mm. The professors gave up, and the old turner Uncle Vanya made a thin cutting tool and, with the help of SOVIET laundry soap, worked wonders

Dmitry-471 30-09-2014 17:58

I cut holes up to 80 mm in diameter on a lathe, just 40 mm thick. I made a fixture for the tailstock, in the form of a thin-walled pipe sharpened from the inside and with a cutout for removing a drilled rubber chop. Watered with ordinary machine oil, which was at hand. Up to 50 mm holes are even. The heating is quite strong, with smoke, the smell of burnt rubber. The result suited me.
Sincerely, Dmitry.

vityuxa 30-09-2014 18:57

Still a ballerina! at the plant, "vacuum workers" cut thicker sheets, and not pancakes, but rings! Both from black and from vacuum rubber. The cutter itself is a very thin millimeter - one and a half, like a knife in shape with a file width, and constantly emulsifies into the working area. I don’t remember the speed, but rather slowly 300-400 no more, I don’t remember in short. Rovnenko at least 500x5, as cast. It seems that it will not be difficult to make a ballerina, the principle is the same for everyone. And only on a professional machine, the more ....

Gunmen 01-10-2014 04:08quote:Originally posted by alex-wolff:

ballerina (as in the picture from the previous post), will not help, the incisors will be clamped with rubber

that would not pinch the place of the cut is wetted or lubricated.

himself a vacuum cleaner in the past. white cut into seals.

rubber stopper

if something complex in shape - they poured a sheet of rubber with liquid nitrogen and almost processed it with a file
revolutions on a twist-cutting 100-200. depends on tire and diameter.

Al.P 01-10-2014 06:52

I cut it several times with a diameter of 22mm, a thickness of 30mm with a cheap Chinese drill bit for wood, wetted with water, at Jet-8, at the lowest speed.

chopokapra 01-10-2014 08:22 quote: Originally posted by Dmitry-471:
I cut holes up to 80mm in diameter on a lathe, just 40mm thick. I made a fixture for the tailstock, in the form of a thin-walled pipe sharpened from the inside and with a cutout for removing a drilled rubber chop
Sincerely, Dmitry.

ktt 01-10-2014 09:01 quote: As far as I understood (guessed) from the TS post, he wants to make a wheel on a grindstone, so .... okay, a hole, another thing is how he will balance on this circle? that's where the hemorrhoid is, and then drilling a hole is not such a big problem.
Can I immediately dissuade the person so that the person does not get hurt? ... .. although my assumptions may not be correct, but it really looks like it .... the wheel is 200mm, the hole is 32mm (under the mandrel sleeve) ... .. maybe it’s easier to sharpen the shaft right away? it’s easier to drill 17-19mm than for a 32 adapter sleeve.
Although this will not get rid of the balancing problem ... .. as I understand it, the task is to adapt the wheel to an endless belt. So? the problem of balancing in this case can be solved in only one way, to reduce the speed of the grindstone ... .. and so, you get to balance a piece of rubber, and a heavy circle will turn out, which will create even greater and dangerous prerequisites. it’s better if you really want such a wheel, carve a lightweight one from lumin and rubberize it ...... something like this.
fully agree with Alexander
Dmitry-471 01-10-2014 16:58quote:Originally posted by chopokapra:

How was the rubber fixed in the chuck - in the jaws of the chuck or on what mandrel?

I have a lathe, but there are no reverse cams to clamp such a diameter

Krepil not in the cartridge. made a mandrel, since the rubber was rectangular

Roman_Dyagelev 04-10-2014 21:00

I cut the diameter a little less with a sharpened pipe with sharpening from the inside. And at the end I welded the "worked out" socket head and put the ratchet on 1/2 and, pressing it, scrolled strongly. Carefully and quickly. But it needs to be sharpened well.

TRYP 04-10-2014 22:24

The question is about the seat? if yes, then I advise you to reduce the diameter of the hole and press the rubber onto the shaft, or is it a roller from Nikitin's grinder? before drilling the landing, I recommend marking not only the landing but also the outer diameter, it will help with finding the optimal location of the center.

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Cutting rubber or silicone is not a trivial task, because the question immediately arises - what to cut and how. The use of a laser cutter is not always a suitable solution here. We will try to dispel the myth that materials of this kind are difficult to process mechanically.

The properties of silicone known to us - its elasticity, durability, low electrical conductivity - make this material indispensable in the manufacture of various substrates, seals, gaskets, rings, elastic bands, belts for transmission mechanisms and assemblies, etc.

Tube drills for rubber

But during processing, you can often encounter a number of problems associated with violations of production techniques, improper storage, and overheating. Porosity appears, hardness decreases, strength decreases, deformation increases.

The efficiency of laser cutting directly depends on the thickness of the material being cut and its combustibility. And the thicker the material, the more likely it is to damage the product, violating its geometry by thermal action, which ultimately spoils the presentation and quality of the product. Due to the action of the laser beam, a hole appears on the material with a diameter exceeding the thickness of the cut line. The entry point is shifted to the side, and the inlet hole is burned in the material outside the contour of the product or in its drop-down, non-working part, which leads to additional waste of consumables and an increase in the cost of the final product.

Another problem is that cutting rubber with a laser beam can be accompanied by charring of the end surface. This usually happens with a large thickness - more than 20-25 mm - of the processed material. And if, for example, rubber insulators are cut with a laser, an additional check for the conductivity of the resulting products may be required, since the insulating properties of the charred material deteriorate significantly.

CNC cutting

Rubber plotter cutting is a way to get around these problems, and in our factory we have been cutting rubber and similar materials like silicone, neoprene, etc. for several years with a CNC plotter. Products processed on the plotter are obtained with a clean, even and neat edge without soot and soot.

Cutting silicone or rubber is carried out with high-alloy steel knives that leave a perfectly smooth surface that does not require additional processing on cutting machines with a working table size of 1330 × 800 mm and 1800 × 3200 mm. The material is pressed by vacuum, which completely eliminates deformation of any kind. The beam height of 60 mm allows cutting thick rubber - up to 50 mm thick - or cutting in several layers, and the processing speed can be faster than with a laser. In our work, we use specialized software, with which you can arrange the sketch as efficiently as possible in order to save material and, consequently, reduce the cost per unit of product.

Sheet rubber cutting or figured cutting according to a sketch of any complexity is carried out in strict accordance with the layout provided by the customer.

If you are not sure that the material is suitable for this type of processing, then we recommend that you use the free test cutting service before ordering.