Do-it-yourself scaffolding. Scaffolding installation rules

Building a house is a responsible event that requires a deliberate approach, materials, tools and devices. It is to the latter that scaffolding can be ranked. These structures serve to make it possible to do finishing work at high heights.

Scaffolding allows to carry out the following works at a height of 4 to 10 meters:

• hem the gables,
• make siding,
• install a drain and so on.

In fact, there is more than enough finishing work. Not only that, scaffolding can be made even higher than 10 meters, but there is one thing, such a structure requires industrial capacity and appropriate engineering knowledge. It is unlikely that you will be able to do it yourself in accordance with all the norms.

Attention ! You should be aware that working on scaffolding involves risks. Therefore, their strength should not be doubted.

Many people decide to make scaffolding with their own hands because renting them is still a very expensive pleasure. Moreover, you have to pay a lot for delivery. Taking into account the fact that finishing work can last about several months, it is more profitable to build the structure yourself.

Choosing a material

Basically, there are only two alternatives. You can make your own scaffolding from metal or wood. Moreover, each option has both its pros and cons.

Let's take metal scaffolding as an example. Making them with your own hands is not so easy. Moreover, it requires special equipment and materials, which most likely will have to be bought. But at the same time, this type of structure has incredible stability and durability. It allows you to do the most difficult work at a considerable height.

Advice ! Once completed, the metal scaffolding can be rented out. In extreme cases, they can be untwisted and put in the garage.

If you rely on the experience of people who have come across this issue, then the majority is inclined to believe that metal scaffolding can only be made if you have the necessary metal. The purchase turns out to be quite costly. But if you want to make a business out of it, the costs must pay off.

Do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood is quite simple. In addition, after use, they can be easily disassembled, and the boards, for example, can be burned in a fireplace or stove. In fact, it is a disposable structure that is destroyed after one cycle of operation or given to a neighbor.

Of course, in terms of reliability, wooden scaffolding that can be made with your own hands is at times inferior to a metal analogue. But they cost practically nothing. In addition, suitable materials can be found at each summer cottage. Your main tools in this context will be a hammer and nails.

The main disadvantage of wooden scaffolding is their low strength and low stability. Of course, if you do everything soundly, then this design can be used. Therefore, it is so important to follow the instructions exactly.

Attention ! Hand-made wooden scaffolding is rather difficult to preserve, since wood without processing is easily rotting.

Plastic - reality or fiction

Now more and more often, in construction forums, you can see whole topics dedicated to plastic scaffolding. Of course, they exist and have a lot of important advantages over wood and metal products. But it is not yet possible to manufacture them outside of industrial conditions.

Attention ! Of course, if you have a 3-D printer, you can make your own plastic scaffolding.

Construction of various types of structures

We make wooden scaffolding

This is the simplest design that you can do with your own hands in just a day. To end up with a solid and reliable structure, just follow these instructions:

1. Take a board six meters long and place it against the wall.
2. Place a second board in parallel.
3. Fasten them together with crossbars. Make the second support in the same way.
4. Install the flooring.
5. To provide increased rigidity, take diagonal boards. Use the ground as a stop.
6. Build level by level until you reach a sufficient height.

As you can see, making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is not so difficult, but there are many nuances that need fate. Otherwise, the structure may not stand for several days.

It is very important to make spans of optimal dimensions for the design. The canon is considered to be the distance of two meters between the risers. If necessary, it can be increased to two and a half. The width of the deck is exactly one meter.

Another important nuance in the construction of scaffolding is which fasteners to use. Usually there are only two options: nails and screws. Admittedly, both have their pros and cons.

Take self-tapping screws, for example. At first glance, these are ideal fasteners for making do-it-yourself scaffolding. But not everything is so simple. Their main disadvantage is excessive fragility.

Also, self-tapping screws, with which you can make scaffolding with your own hands, are quite susceptible to shock loads. Their hat just flies off. Naturally, this can lead to complete destruction of the structure.

Therefore, the best option for making scaffolding with your own hands will be nails. Moreover, it is best to use 120 mm products. For better fixation, their ends are curved.

The main reason for the brittleness of self-tapping screws is that they are made of hardened metal. That is why, under heavy loads, they often break. Nails are quite another matter. They are based on soft metal. It can bend, but not break. That is why, if you want to make your own scaffolding, it is best to use them.

Unfortunately, despite their undeniable merits, nails are not perfect. The main disadvantage of these fasteners is that it will not work neatly to disassemble the structure. We'll have to break it. Naturally, the product cannot be used a second time.

Therefore, experienced builders recommend to all those who decided to make scaffolding with their own hands the basic version to fasten with self-tapping screws, and fix the final one with nails.

Do-it-yourself metal scaffolding

First, you need to give one important clarification. In this version, the main structure is made of metal, and the flooring is made of wood. This is the optimal combination to achieve high performance.

Attention ! Exclusively metal scaffolding is not made by hand.

Aluminum can be used as the metal for the frame. It is lightweight, so there shouldn't be any difficulties with installation. However, it is not able to withstand too heavy loads and this must be taken into account. It is best that each span has the following parameters:

• width - 100 cm;
• height - 150 cm;
• length from 165 to 200 cm.

This is the canon that will provide the necessary stability for a self-made building.

When creating a metal structure, you need to properly prepare, since the quality of materials is of particular importance here, you will need:

• square profile,
• pipes for spacers,
• profile for connecting inserts,
• floorboards,
• ladder,
• connecting elements.

Naturally, it will not be possible to limit yourself to materials alone; in order to create the intended project with your own hands, you will also need a number of tools, including:

• hacksaw for metal,
• drill,
• Bulgarian,
• welding machine.

With this toolkit, you can build your own metal assistive device.

The construction of a scaffold with your own hands begins with tamping the ground where the product will stand. This will provide increased reliability of the entire structure. Moreover, it will not hurt to make a drainage system.

Attention ! Drainage is a necessary element if facades will be finished for a long period of time.

Where the supports will stand, you must place the boards with your own hands. This will provide more stability. In this case, no precaution will be superfluous, since the slightest play can lead to the fact that the scaffolding collapses, and you cannot do anything.

To make scaffolding from a profile pipe with your own hands, follow this algorithm:

To protect the scaffolding from corrosion, a protective coating must be applied. Enough anti-corrosion liquid and special paint.

Outcomes

You can make scaffolding with your own hands. The complexity of the design directly depends on the material that you choose, for example, plastic structures can only be made in an industrial environment. The simplest option is a wooden structure.

All photos from the article

When carrying out various works at a height - from laying walls to cladding the facade or applying plaster, it is necessary to build structures that will allow you to perform work comfortably and at the same time ensure safety.

Professional builders use metal scaffolding, which is a pre-fabricated modular system that can have a wide variety of sizes, but for private use it is easier to build a structure from boards, this is what we will consider in the article.

What is required for work

Before you build scaffolding from planks with your own hands, you need to prepare all the required materials and tools:

Important!
Do not forget about the tool, as you will need to cut wood, hammer in nails or twist self-tapping screws, as well as take measurements, for this the easiest way is to use a tape measure, a square and a construction pencil.

The working process

The instruction on how to make scaffolding with your own hands from boards is quite simple, it is important to follow all the recommendations and requirements, it is with them that we will begin to consider the issue.

Basic design requirements

There are several generally accepted rules, the observance of which guarantees the reliability of the forests you collect and ensures the highest safety:

• The distance between the posts should not exceed 2-2.5 meters, since with a longer span, the wood will not be able to provide adequate rigidity, especially under high loads;
• The width of the decks to ensure comfortable work should be at least 1 meter, but making the structure wider than one and a half meters is also not recommended, as the stability of the system will suffer;
• The maximum safe height of the structure is 6 meters, this is due to the fact that the maximum length of sawn timber is the same, and it is not recommended to build up elements.

Stages of work

The whole process consists of several operations that must be performed in a specific sequence:

• First you need to connect the first 4 racks, for this, first the long side is fastened, this is done with the help of diagonal spacers, the second element is assembled in the same way, after which the end sides are connected with the help of all the same spacers, then the resulting structure must be placed and checked for stability, if necessary, it is reinforced with additional jumpers and perforated corners;

• Next, you need to fix the jumpers, their location depends on the level at which the work will be performed. It is important to calculate everything correctly in order to ensure the convenience of the process, if two rows of flooring are used, respectively, two rows of jumpers are made, they will also serve as elements providing rigidity, for additional reinforcement of the support it makes sense to fasten it to corners with stiffeners;
• The flooring is arranged along the fixed lintels, for its device, only a reliable board is taken without cracks and damage, it is necessary to cut it into pieces of the required length so that excess parts do not stick out at the edges, these elements are best fastened with self-tapping screws, since the wood cracks from them much less, and fixation is obtained much better;

• Next, you need to attach the fence elements, their location directly depends on the place of the decks. The general rule is that the elements should not be below the waist level, sometimes it makes sense to nail in two rows of boards to provide even more safety. Here lumber is used with a thickness of at least 30 mm, so that, if necessary, it can withstand a sufficiently large force and not break;
• The next step is to install the support elements, their number and configuration depends on the characteristics of a particular situation, the height of the forests and the reliability of the soil around the house. Here it is important to learn one simple rule - as many supports are installed as necessary to ensure the best stability of the system you have built. The elements rest well against the soil, after which they are attached to the support posts;

Advice!
If the structure is wooden, then for additional reliability the system is attached to the walls, this will significantly strengthen the structure, everything is very simple: the bar is fixed with one end on the rack, and the other on the wall.

During the construction or finishing of a house, scaffolding is indispensable. For their construction, it is not necessary to contact the professionals, you can easily do everything yourself. The structure can be erected either from wood or from a profile pipe. The first structures will be disposable, but the second can be used a large number of times. Next, we will consider how to properly build both those and other forests with our own hands.

What does the structure consist of?

Before proceeding to the construction of scaffolding, it is necessary to clearly define what elements they consist of. So, the structure includes:

various braces that give rigidity to the structure;

cross members for the floor;

boards that will serve as the floor of each floor;

supports that will give stability;

fences;

ladder for climbing the floors of the building.

Homemade construction - isn't it dangerous?

Making scaffolding with your own hands is very simple, but is it worth it? First of all, I would like to note that this is not a small portable structure, but a rather voluminous structure, which then needs to be stored somewhere. Even if you disassemble it, then the existing boards and pipes will need to be attached somewhere. Well, if the house can be heated with wood, then they can come in handy, and if not, the wood will simply deteriorate over time. With metal scaffolding, everything is somewhat simpler - it will be possible to lease them, but again, if there is a demand for them.

It is also worth noting that the use of self-made structures is possible no higher than the second floor. Scaffolding, especially of wood, at higher heights can be hazardous to health. In addition, you need to understand that if the structure will no longer be used, then is it worth spending a lot of time on its construction. It may be easier to rent it. After evaluating all of the above, you can decide whether homemade scaffolding is needed during the construction or renovation of a house. If the answer is yes, it will be necessary to create drawings, where not only the appearance of the structure should be drawn, but also the amount of required material should be indicated.

Installation of a wooden structure

In order to create a structure made of wood, it will be necessary to prepare the following materials:

wooden boards for racks approximately 5x10 centimeters thick;

boards for the floor and crossbars with a thickness of 5 centimeters;

wooden boards for fencing and braces with a thickness of at least 3 centimeters;

In this case, the step between the posts should be approximately 2.3 meters, the width of the floor, in order to walk on it safely, should be at least 1 meter, and the height of the structure should be no more than 5 meters. So, in order to create scaffolding from boards with your own hands, you need:

using braces to fasten four racks together;

fasten the crossbars at the required height;

fix the floorboards on the crossbars;

attach boards that will play the role of a fence;

carry out the installation of supports;

fix the ladder in the right place;

check the drawings.

All work on creating a structure made of wood is carried out only with nails and a hammer (see video).

Metal construction

A structure made of a shaped pipe is more reliable than a structure made of boards. When constructing a structure, it must be borne in mind that the dimensions of one section should be approximately 1.5x1x1.6 meters (see photo). You also need to prepare materials such as:

pipe for supports with a cross section of 3x3 centimeters and a length of 1.5 meters;

pipe for braces with a diameter of 1.5 centimeters;

pipe for connections with a cross section of 2.5x2.5 centimeters;

a floor of boards about 5 centimeters thick and about 2 meters long;

So, in order to create a structure from a shaped pipe, you must:

cut pipes for braces for horizontal elements of 1 meter and for vertical elements of 2 meters;

cut two-meter braces from each end, which will greatly simplify their fastening;

connect two supports each with horizontal braces, the distance between which should be about 30 centimeters;

fix the connecting elements;

drill holes for bolts on the braces and supports;

assemble a structure from a shaped pipe to the end;

clean the structure and paint it;

check the available drawings.

How can we do without forests?

It is worth thinking about scaffolding even at the stage of creating house drawings, but if this has not happened, what is the right thing to do? If the work on the construction or finishing of the building will be carried out by professionals, then there is no need to think about them, because every brigade should have such structures. If the chance of their independent construction is lost or no more work is planned wherever they might be needed, the structure can be easily rented.

But in order for scaffolding to really no longer be needed, all finishing work must be carried out immediately with the highest quality. For example, it is better to use facing bricks or other similar materials as finishing materials, because, for example, plaster and siding will require additional attention.

If you are building a small one-story house, then you most likely do not need forests. Everything can be done using trestles and ladders. But when the structure stretches out into one and a half or two floors, and even with a pediment, then it will not work out so easily. Forests will definitely be required, if only because with them the productivity, safety and quality of work increases significantly.

Mostly they come in handy in the following cases:

• Wall construction (for example, brickwork);
• Facade decoration and repair (plaster, various types of cladding, painting ...);
• Arrangement of external slopes on window openings;
• Creation of some types of chimneys, for example, wall chimneys that go along the outer wall;
• Installation of the roof and the first rows of roofing in particular.
• Sewing the "wind" board;
• Assembling a roof gutter system ...

And here the painful question arises, where to get the forests. Metal factory pipe models are a great time-tested option. But they are expensive. Even if you rent several sections at a height of 6-8 meters, this can significantly undermine the family budget, given that they can be in demand at the facility for several months in a row. Whether you have a construction company or a more or less serious "team" - then the purchase of your own metal scaffolding is quite justified and pays off, because their use (including delivery / removal, assembly / disassembly / rearrangement ...) is usually set in the estimate and paid by the customer. And if you are a customer and a contractor in one person, then you have to look for an alternative.

It is there - scaffolding can be collected from sawn timber. Such a structure will have the following advantages:

• Low price;
• The ability to flexibly approach the choice of configuration (standard steel sections can be very difficult to squeeze in some "clamped" places);
• A small mass of auxiliary structure that can be safely placed on the roof or relatively soft substrates / grounds;
• No problems with logistics (it is enough to buy a board or timber with delivery from us);
• Availability of options for using lumber used to create forests for other purposes.
• Reliability.

It is not for nothing that forests are called forests. From time immemorial, auxiliary building structures were made of wood (logs and beams, boards), on which even cathedrals of several tens of meters were built calmly. In China, using bamboo and ropes, skyscrapers are still being erected in some places. But! To get truly reliable and safe structures, you need to have more than minimal skills in working with lumber and have a clear idea of ​​the mechanics of work, as well as the boundary capabilities of this type of structure.

What design of wooden scaffolding to choose

There are two options in total, within which you can find a number of varieties. These are wooden scaffolding:

• Framed, which stand independently and are installed near the walls.
• Envelopes (wall-mounted) that are pressed against the house and usually do not have vertical support posts.

The structure of the first type is, in fact, an analogue of factory metal scaffolding, only here, instead of rolling, beams and boards are used. In this case, square or rectangular spatial "sections" are assembled near the wall, each of which has support posts oriented almost vertically and tying diagonal braces. Decking boards are placed on the crossbars between the uprights.

Such scaffolds are more difficult to manufacture than envelopes, but they are spaced from the walls and allow you to freely perform any work over their entire area - it is enough to create flooring at each height. Also, such a structure can be much more loaded and, if properly executed, can be used to store heavy materials. Free-standing scaffolds are wider than envelopes, which is why they are much more convenient for moving several people and performing various work operations.

Wall scaffolding is much simpler in design. They are L-shaped brackets that are held in place by means of a diagonal support from a log or a powerful bar that goes straight into the ground. In addition to the operation of this support, the retaining effect is provided due to friction, therefore it is not necessary to mechanically fix the envelope to the wall, although if there is such a possibility, then this is only better.

Masons are very fond of such forests. After all, it is very easy to assemble and rearrange them to the required height, only by replacing the support with a longer one. It requires very little lumber. There is no need to worry too much about ensuring that all legs are well supported. However, there are also disadvantages:

• Small floor width,
• There is only one tier on which to work - the entire wall is not accessible,
• Lack of fencing,
• Tighter restrictions on height and load,
• Several places on the wall are always inaccessible for marking or decoration due to envelopes.

Features of assembling wood scaffolding

Frame scaffolding

Free-standing forests can be partially made on the ground. For this, frames are assembled from two support legs, which are spaced about one meter from each other and are connected by at least two jumpers and, very preferably, with at least one diagonal brace. In this case, 1 meter is the width of the scaffolding being built.

Racks with a height of 6+ meters, ideally, should be made of large lumber - logs with a diameter of 100 mm or beams with a section of 10X10 centimeters. For smaller scaffoldings, a 75x75 mm timber will go; you can also twist racks from several edged boards with layers to each other.

It is not recommended to assemble auxiliary structures made of wood designed to work at a height of over 10 meters. In no case should the racks be extended along the length.

Once the cross frames have been assembled, they can be lifted and installed on site. The distance between them should not exceed 2 meters (when creating reinforced platforms, a span of up to 2.5 meters is allowed). This creates a span, which we will cover with shields, the weaker the shield and the greater the load, the less the distance between the frames needs to be done.

It is necessary to collect frame scaffolding at a given distance from the wall. If work is being carried out on the facade, you need to consider how far the finish will be from the base, what tool you need to use. For example, for plaster it is better to take the scaffolding 30 centimeters away from the wall or more, so that you can work freely with a trowel, a rule, etc. Do not neglect the fastening of free-standing scaffolding to the structural elements of the building, even if it is temporary. Always install brackets (not on scaffolding) to be able to fasten the harness cable.

The frames are fastened together by horizontal spacers from the board, which must hook at least 3 frames (they are fixed on the stands). Several such spacers are needed (somewhere every 2.5 meters), the highest located of them can work as a fence in the area of ​​the upper deck.

In addition to horizontal struts, diagonal ones are also needed. They are made from a board with a width of 75 mm and a thickness of 25 mm. The block works as well, but the thickness makes it harder to properly secure in place.
Ideally, if the diagonals go from the bottom of the racks to the very top, it is better to put them in pairs - with crossing. It is difficult to indicate the specific location of these elements and the exact number, because a lot depends on the height of the scaffolding, length, width, as well as the length of the boards available.
Also, stabilizing struts that go from the forests to the ground will not be superfluous. They are placed in the direction "from the wall" and "right / left" - to the sides. They prevent the structure from swaying and toppling over.

Racks and frames are not quite parallel to each other. In fact, it is necessary to assemble trapezoidal structures that are more resistant to folding, which taper in the upper part. For example, the width of the forest near the ground will be 1 meter, and at the very top - 80-90 cm. The extreme frames are also slightly inclined towards the center of the forests, which in the upper part makes their length 40-50 cm less than at the base.

The floorings are made from a board with a thickness of at least 30 mm, and better - from 35 to 45 mm. Their length should be such that the shield fits at least 3 jumpers. It should be noted that it is advisable to twist a flooring consisting of several planks using wooden pads. The resulting shield works much better in bending and twisting than scattered boards. It is advisable to install limiting bars along the edges of the board, which prevent the flooring from shifting in the horizontal direction. It also makes sense to nail / screw the flooring to the supporting frame of the scaffolding. Running shields for wall scaffolding-envelopes are assembled in a similar way.

Envelopes

As we have already noted, the wall auxiliary structures are kept on the wall, first of all, due to the diagonal support, rested against the ground. However, there is nothing stopping them from completing them with vertical racks for each envelope. So you can make the system more reliable and use a wider flooring - up to a meter.

The usual width of the boards for such scaffolding is limited to half the size (45-50 mm), which is explained by the increasing leverage during thoughtless expansion of the flooring, which can lead to the possible destruction of the envelope.

The base of the envelope consists of a bar with a section of 50-75 by 75-120 mm. Two segments (down about a meter, from the wall - up to 70 cm) are connected at right angles. Then the resulting L-shaped bracket is stabilized on both sides with diagonal spacers (3-4 pieces each or a whole triangle made of reliable sheet materials: plywood, OSB). The role of these elements is extremely important, as they prevent the envelope from folding under pressure.

In total, you need to put at least 3 envelopes on the wall, only in very short sections you can get by with two. The main requirement is that the spans should not exceed a distance of 2-2.5 meters, which, however, is more accurately determined by the strength of the flooring.

A lot of questions for home craftsmen are caused by the problem of choosing a method of joining parts of wooden scaffolding in general and fasteners in particular. It can be said unequivocally that black phosphated self-tapping screws cannot be used due to their fragility. Heavy-duty, galvanized screws with a thickness of 4.5 mm and above, when correctly assembled, will withstand all loads. There will definitely not be any problems with steel nails 90-120 mm long, which are generally immune to shearing forces. Unless it will be difficult to expose the structures and disassemble them without damage. In this case, no cuts and cuts should be made so as not to weaken the bearing capacity of the structure. The entire assembly must be overlaid, an excellent option to strengthen the frame and speed up the work would be to use perforated fasteners.

What lumber to buy to create wooden scaffolding

We have already spoken about suitable sections, we will not repeat ourselves. Of the breeds, of course, it is better to use needles: pine or spruce. Aspen has also proven itself well here, both in strength and in price.
The main thing is that the board and timber do not have large knots that can weaken the structure. You should not use lumber with a cracked structure here, through cracks are not good, and heavily warped products are difficult to assemble into a reliable frame. Lumber of the second grade is quite suitable, including TU sawn timber. In many nodes, it is even allowed to use an unedged board, but it is worth removing the bark from the wane and from the edges untouched by the equipment before installation.

It should be borne in mind that it will not be possible to disassemble the wooden scaffolding so that all the lumber remains unharmed. But with some effort, the percentage of boards and beams remaining intact can be very large. Therefore, some forest developers buy good first grade material, expecting in advance to reuse it in other works.

The natural moisture content of sawn timber in the region of 20 percent is quite enough, dry wood for such purposes would be wasteful, but too "wet" products can give an unpleasant surprise.

When erecting walls or exterior decoration of buildings, scaffolding is used. This design makes it possible to safely carry out work at height and keep the necessary tools and stock of used materials close at hand.

Types of scaffolding

Despite the fact that scaffolding is presented in many types, their structures contain identical parts that carry the same purpose:

• Vertical supports.
• Ties connecting the supports horizontally and vertically.
• Crossbars.
• Flooring.
• Support slopes.
• Handrails.
• Ladders.

Material for making

In the manufacture of scaffolding, they use:

• lumber;
• metal.

A wood structure is much cheaper than a metal one, but it can only be used with two or three assemblies. In the future, it is only suitable for "discharge".

Scaffolding made of metal pipes, although much more expensive than wooden ones, are not limited in use. They are easy to dismantle and move as needed. In addition, pipe scaffolding can be increased in height by complementing the tiers.

Making scaffolding out of wood

To make scaffolding from wood and pallets with your own hands, it is necessary, first of all, to develop drawings and determine the dimensions.

You don't need to come up with anything in this regard. Long-term practice itself has determined and established the dimensions that are convenient to use:

• the maximum height of the structure is 6 meters;
• the distance between the supports can vary from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
• working platform width - 1 meter.

Manufacturing of scaffolding

DIY step-by-step scaffolding:

• On a flat surface of the ground, two supports are laid out, preferably from a bar, but it is also possible from a fiftieth board, parallel to each other, of the same height.
• The supports are fastened horizontally with crossbars, on which the work platform will subsequently be laid.
• The resulting two fastened structures are installed vertically against each other and connected diagonally and horizontally with crossbars.
• Planks are covered and fixed on horizontal crossbars, which will subsequently serve as flooring.
• To fix the scaffolding, side stops are installed.
• A cranial block is nailed to the supports, which will play the role of a railing.
• At the last stage, an ascent ladder is installed and fixed.

If you need to install two or more sections, then they are connected to each other with a wide board, which is stuffed onto adjacent supports. To prevent nails from splitting, you must first drill holes for them.

The specifics of the manufacture of scaffolding from pipes

When starting to make collapsible scaffolding from pipes with your own hands, you need to know that in terms of their design data they are identical with wooden scaffolding. The difference among them is represented by adapters that are used to increase the height of the structure.

Detailing for the assembly of one metal section

To assemble one section, you will need:

• Profiled pipe for supports 40x40 mm - 4 pcs. 1.5 m each.
• Profiled tube for crossbeams - 4 pcs. 1 m each.
• Thin-walled pipe with a diameter of 20 mm - 4 pcs. 2 meters diagonally for the screed.
• Profiled pipes 35x35 mm - 8 pcs. 10 cm each, which will play the role of adapters.
• Profiled pipe 35x35 for handrails - 1pc 2 - m.
• Steel plate for foot pads 10x10 cm, 3 mm thick - 4 pieces.
• To connect the crossbars diagonally to the frame, you will need 10 bolts with nuts and washers.

Assembling metal scaffolding of the same level

To assemble the structure, you must adhere to the instructions: how to make scaffolding correctly.

Assembling scaffolding from pipes includes the following operations:

• The scaffold supports are fixed to the OSB sheet using clamps.
• The crossbars are welded to the supports horizontally by welding.
• Adapters 5 cm in size are welded to the upper end of the racks.
• Having lifted the racks with crossbars from the shield, they must be turned 90 degrees, put back on the shield and fastened to the shield with clamps.
• The edges and the middle of the pipe, intended for diagonal stretching, are flattened and a slot for the bolts is drilled.
• Two diagonal beams are tightened in the center with a bolt, applied to the posts and the location for drilling is determined.
• The crossbars are bolted to the uprights and tightened with nuts.
• Holes are drilled on the supports and handrails and connected to each other with bolts.
• The thrust bearings are welded to the base of the pipes.
• The finished structure is installed vertically.
• Boards are laid on the side beams, which serve as the basis of the working platform.

A photo of how to make scaffolding can be seen below.

It is important to remember that diagonal beams must be fixed on one side of the structure, and horizontal beams on the opposite side. Then, when assembling, they will not interfere with each other.

DIY scaffolding photos

Note!

Note!