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Content

Not only comfort, but also the health of people depends on the microclimate in the house. Optimum temperature for residential premises is 20–25 ° C, and the humidity level is 50–60%. If the winters are severe, a significant part of the heat energy escapes through the walls, roof, door and window openings. To retain heat as much as possible, wall structures must be insulated.

Choosing insulation for the walls of the house outside

It is recommended to insulate a private house outside, since internal insulation has many disadvantages. Heaters for the exterior walls of the house are not uncommon on the market. Therefore, in order to select a quality material, it is enough to take into account when choosing technical specifications and installation features. So you can choose the perfect thermal insulation.

Principles of insulation of the outer walls of the house

It is important to understand why the insulation of the facade is a priority over the thermal insulation of residential premises from the inside. There are situations when it is not possible to mount outside thermal insulation material and exterior finish buildings, in these cases, internal insulation is the only possible option.

The problem lies in the location of the "dew point" - the place where heat meets cold, which provokes condensation. And in a residential area, moisture in the air is always present due to the evaporation of bodies, respiration, and the use of water for domestic needs.

The dew point in an uninsulated wall is located approximately in the middle of the building envelope. This means that the wall is gaining moisture from the side of the room. If you mount thermal insulation on the inner surface of the walls, the structure will freeze through and the slightest access of warm humid air behind the insulating layer will lead to condensation - the wall will get wet under the insulation.

Experts say that it is better to insulate the house from the outside. In this case, the wall structures will be isolated from contact with cold air, as a result of which the walls will not freeze. Depending on the insulation technology used outer side, moist warm air that passes through the wall:

will not come into contact with the cold, since the insulation layer is mounted directly on the wall structure;
gets into ventilation gap between the wall and the heat insulator, the moisture will quickly evaporate, so that there will be no conditions for the wall to get wet - when external insulation the dew point is outside the structure.

To choose the option of external insulation, which is the best, you need to take into account the characteristics of the materials from which the house is built, as well as specifications heat insulators.

Properties of heat insulators

Thermal insulation with mineral glass wool

Insulation for the house, regardless of the type of construction, is characterized by a low thermal conductivity. But heat insulators are compared not only by this parameter. It is equally important to evaluate other characteristics that affect the durability, safety and functional properties of the material for external insulation:

indicators of vapor permeability and water absorption;
impact on the microclimate of the room;
resistance to aggressive environments;
resistance to fire;
environmental friendliness and safety for health;
resistance to biological damage (mold fungus, rodents, insects);
physical and mechanical parameters (including the tendency to shrink, resistance to mechanical stress, elasticity, etc.);
noise-absorbing properties;
installation technology and convenience during work;
the possibility of creating a seamless thermal insulation coating;
the ability to use on surfaces of complex configuration with a large number of hard-to-reach places;
strength and durability.

When designing wall insulation, it is necessary to calculate the thickness of the heat-insulating layer using the thermal conductivity value of the selected material. Pay attention to the indicators of water absorption and vapor permeability of the insulation, because they affect the technology of installation work.

Types of heat insulators

Examples of various heat insulators

There are various types of wall insulation on the market, each of which has its own advantages. Thermal insulation of the facade is most often carried out using:

polystyrene (expanded polystyrene);
extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex, epps, extruded polystyrene foam);
sprayed polyurethane foam;
mineral wool (basalt);
liquid insulation.

To choose good thermal insulation should take into account the material from which the wall was built, as well as the planned version of the exterior finish.

Styrofoam

Thermal insulation of external walls with foam

Expanded polystyrene boards are actively used for external thermal insulation. building structures. The advantages of polymer material: light weight, easy installation, moisture resistance, reasonable price. In addition, the heat insulator does not become a refuge for fungus and is not damaged by pests. If you prevent ultraviolet radiation from entering the insulation, the material will last more than 50 years.

At the same time, the material also has a number of serious drawbacks - it is combustible, it is easily damaged by rodents. At a density of less than 35 kg/m3, the foam has a loose structure, and it is vapor-permeable due to the pores between the interconnected foamed polymer granules. The denser the material, the higher its thermal insulation properties.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

EPPS, penoplex is foamed polymer material with a closed cell structure. Polymer heaters for thermal insulation of a house have the same advantages, but extruded polystyrene foam differs from polystyrene for the better:

low flammability (combustion is maintained only when constant contact with a flame, in the absence of a source of fire, the material self-extinguishes);
vapor tightness;
resistance to rodent damage.

XPS is widely used as an external insulation, if graphite nanoparticles are used in its production, the material has higher energy-saving properties and strength.

Sprayed polyurethane foam

Example of insulation with sprayed polyurethane foam

PPU is a heat-insulating material with a closed cell structure. Due to the fact that 90% of the weight is air contained in the cells, modern insulation characterized by low thermal conductivity.

PPU is resistant to biological damage, does not spread combustion, due to its low weight, such wall insulation does not load the structures and the foundation. The material is moisture- and gas-tight, provides an airtight coating.

The spraying method allows the use of polyurethane foam to create a seamless elastic thermal insulation on surfaces of any configuration. Polyurethane foam has high adhesion and securely adheres to any type of base - wooden, brick and block structures.

The disadvantages of PPU include high cost and the need to use professional equipment during installation.

Mineral wool

Wall insulation with mineral wool

Fibrous materials for wall insulation from the outside are stone wool, slag, glass wool. The type of mineral wool depends on the raw materials used. They can serve as waste from glass production and the metallurgical industry, a melt of stone (basalt) rocks.

In order to choose the right mineral wool heat insulator, it should be borne in mind that slag wool is not environmentally friendly, it is better for it to insulate non-residential buildings. Glass wool tends to caking over time, losing its thermal insulation properties. Perfect option- basalt wool, which holds its shape well, does not burn, is easy to install, dampens sound waves, is not afraid of biological damage and is durable.

Basalt wool can be used to insulate walls made of building blocks, bricks, and timber. Works on the thermal insulation of the facade are carried out at any temperature.

The fibrous material is vapor permeable and able to absorb moisture, which requires its reliable vapor barrier during installation. internal insulation and external thermal insulation under the skin. Moisture condensation reduces the thermal insulation properties of the material.

However, vapor permeability useful property if the thermal insulation of external walls from "breathing" materials is carried out using the "under plaster" technology. In such a situation, moist warm air from the room passes through the mineral wool and is expelled outside, and a favorable microclimate is maintained in the house.

Liquid thermal insulation

Application of liquid insulation

Liquid thermal insulation is an innovative material for insulating wall structures from the outside. Used for processing metal elements structures (prevents the occurrence of cold bridges), as well as for insulation of walls made of foam blocks, bricks, wood.

The ceramic multicomponent composition visually looks like paint, but has a porous structure with vacuum voids. The total volume of voids reaches 80% of the material, due to which thermal insulation properties are provided.

The list of advantages of the material includes:

the integrity of the coating, the absence of seams;
a simple way to apply to the walls from the outside (using a roller, brush or vacuum sprayer);
possibility of application on surfaces of any configurations;
resistance of the heat-protective layer to external influences (high and low temperatures, moisture, ultraviolet, mechanical damage);
decorative look (the building does not need finishing on top of the insulation layer);
protection of structures (protects metal from corrosion, wood - from UV radiation and moisture);
resistance to biological damage.

With the help of liquid thermal insulation, it is possible to successfully insulate the facade of a residential private house, an outbuilding, an industrial facility.

External insulation methods

The materials used to insulate the house from the outside are for the most part universal and suitable for wall structures built from any materials. But it is important to understand how insulation will affect the wall's ability to "breathe" with a particular installation technology. Pay attention to the exterior finish on the outside of the insulation. As a rule, plaster, facade panels, siding, facing bricks are used.

There are three main ways to insulate a building from the outside:

fixing the heat insulator under the plaster;
arrangement of a non-ventilated three-layer system;
installation of a ventilated facade.

The application of a liquid heat-insulating composition has not yet become widespread.

Insulation of walls under plaster

"Pie" of the wall with thermal insulation with mineral wool

For installation under plaster are used plate heaters for the outer walls of the house. The material is attached with special glue and “umbrella” fasteners to aligned walls (wooden structures are pre-treated with an antiseptic). The cladding elements are mounted "in a run-up" so that there are no long butt joints.

Then plaster is applied with the obligatory use of mesh for reinforcement. To prevent the plaster layer from falling off the polymer insulation over time, it is recommended to treat its smooth surface with an abrasive for better adhesion and use a plaster material with high adhesion.

When choosing a heat insulator, it is important to consider:

If foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam is used as an insulating material, the house turns into a thermos, as these materials are vapor-tight. To prevent the walls from dampening from the inside, effective exhaust ventilation must be provided in the house.
Using mineral wool, you will maintain the vapor permeability of the wall, but provided that the plaster is not painted acrylic paint because it creates a film.

Non-ventilated 3-layer system

Wall section when installing a non-ventilated three-layer system

Used if wall material bricks or blocks. The procedure for wall insulation when installing a three-layer non-ventilated system:

a heat insulator of any type is attached to the wall with glue or spraying;
with an indent for the air gap, the outer cladding of the house is made of decorative bricks.

If you insulate a house using this technology with a foamed polymer, you need to take care of good ventilation, since the walls stop "breathing". The advantages of the technology include the ability to make a beautiful brick facade of the house. It is also possible to mount facade panels.

Ventilated facade

Wall insulation with a ventilated facade

The most common option, provides for the possibility of sheathing the house with siding, decorative panels, clapboard. The material for thermal insulation of the facade can be mineral wool, XPS boards, foam plastic.

The construction of the "pie" is as follows:

crate of boards to create a ventilation gap;
fastening of hydro-vapor barrier;
crate (on boards) for laying a heat insulator;
insulation in the resulting sections;
windproof film;
counter-lattice to create an air gap;
finishing cladding with selected material.

Note! A common mistake is to install waterproofing directly on the wall of the house. In this case, the vapor permeability of the structure is lost.

Conclusion

In order for the wall insulated from the outside not to become damp and not covered with mold, it is required to use a technology that does not violate its vapor permeability, or it is necessary to install a high-quality ventilation system.

September 3, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

It is no secret that the external insulation of the walls of a house or apartment is more effective than internal thermal insulation. By installing materials with low thermal conductivity on the outside, we not only reduce the heat loss of the building, but also normalize the humidity regime, providing natural ventilation of the room and preventing the formation of condensate inside the house.

There are many technologies for insulating finishes, among them there are quite simple ones that are affordable for do-it-yourself implementation. In any case, I managed to cope with such work on my own, without involving outside specialists. I will describe successful examples of the implementation of insulation in the article below.

Two insulation options

Reducing the thermal conductivity of the wall fencing is one of the ways to reduce the heat loss of the building as a whole. And we are talking not only about improving the microclimate by raising the temperature in the house or apartment.

From my own experience, I know that even a thin layer of insulation on the walls can significantly save on space heating. In private houses, this savings will be more noticeable due to a reduction in the consumption of heat carriers, but in an apartment with central heating, we will feel the financial effect - at least due to the fact that in the cold season we do not have to spend money on additional heating, and in the summer heat - for air conditioning.

Today, experts practice different types of thermal insulation works, the main difference between which is:

in the method of installation of heat-insulating material;
in the insulation that is used.

And if there are quite a lot of materials on the market, I performed the insulation of the outer walls with foam plastic, polystyrene foam, mineral wool, ecowool, etc. - then there are only two installation methods that are fundamentally different from each other. Conventionally, they are called wet and dry - according to the method of finishing:

Methodology

Peculiarities

Wet

Thermal insulation panels synthetic material or mineral fiber are glued onto the prepared base and additionally fixed using mechanical fasteners.

After that, the surface is plastered, puttied and treated with decorative compounds.

Dry

On load-bearing surfaces it is mounted from a wooden beam or a steel profile.

Heat-insulating material is laid in the cells of the frame. Most often, mineral wool is used for this, but sometimes, in order to save money, foam plastic with a density of about 20-25 kg / m3 is taken.

Facing is mounted on top of the heat-insulating layer - siding, wall paneling, block house, etc.

Sometimes a false wall of decorative brick is erected as a cladding.

By by and large, it is the finish that determines which method we will use:

if we want to plaster and paint the walls of the house, then wet technology is used - with foam plastic or polystyrene;
and if we want to sheathe it with siding or imitation of a bar, then we mount a heater with a frame, be sure to leave a gap inside for ventilation.

Both methods have a right to exist, and therefore below I will describe in detail my own experience of their implementation, adding some helpful tips from craftsmen.

wet technology

What to insulate?

"Wet" insulation assumes that we will stick heat-insulating boards on a pre-treated wall, and then plaster them. A variety of materials can be used for this process, and I will describe the most commonly used below:

Styrofoam is the cheapest, but at the same time the most popular variety. Most often it is used for thermal insulation of outbuildings, as well as for insulation of the facade of high-rise buildings. The thing is that the mechanical properties of the material do not provide the heat-insulating layer with a sufficient margin of safety, therefore the facade of a private house will be regularly damaged during operation.

For work, we take exclusively architectural foam, with a density of about 25 kg / m 3. Building varieties PSB-S 15 or PSB-S 10 do not have delivery strength, and packaging grades not only crumble under more or less intense impacts, but also are characterized by increased flammability. In general, this is the case when saving is clearly inappropriate.

Expanded or extruded polystyrene is a more expensive alternative to foam panels. It has a higher density, but at the same time it conducts heat worse and does not burn so intensely (or rather, it almost does not burn on its own, but melts when exposed to high temperatures). The price is higher than that of polystyrene, but at the same time, the increase in price is offset by an increase in the service life of the insulated facade.

Expanded polystyrene derivatives - Technoplex, Penoplex, Sanpol and analogues - have approximately the same list of advantages and disadvantages. Most of them are characterized by low thermal conductivity, because, for example, insulation brick house Penoplex thickness up to 100 mm allows to reduce the total heat loss by about 15 - 20%.

Mineral wool is another material that is used for "wet" thermal insulation. Unlike polymer plates, it does not burn and does not melt at high temperatures, provides natural ventilation and does not reduce the vapor permeability of walls, and retains heat well.

Many are interested in what density of mineral wool is optimal for plastering, and on this score I fully agree with heating specialists: the minimum limit is approximately at the level of 50-65 kg / m3, and for a guarantee it is better to take products from 80 kg / m3. So the best choice is ISOVER Stucco facade boards, ISOVER OL-Pe, etc.

Ultimately, the choice of material is determined by our financial capabilities. Yes, mineral wool is more reliable, more durable and more efficient, but if the choice is between no insulation at all and thermal insulation using foam, then, it seems to me, it’s still worth gaining at least some savings.

Wall preparation

In order for the outer wall insulation to hold firmly to the base and effectively protect the building from heat loss, the walls themselves must be carefully prepared for work. I usually follow this algorithm:

The wall is cleaned of the old finish, since attempts to stick heat-insulating material on old plaster end the same way - the insulation falls off along with fragments of the base and the decorative layer.

All cracks and cracks identified under the plaster are sealed with a repair compound. Deep cracks before this are cleaned and embroidered, which helps to prevent their further expansion.
The wall is treated with several layers of a penetrating primer with antiseptic components - this not only improves adhesion to the heat-insulating material, but also protects against the development of fungal colonies in a warm and humid environment.
When preparing for insulation in panel houses Special attention Seams are sealed: they are cleaned, embroidered and filled with special mastics that tightly clog all voids. The efficiency of thermal insulation works largely depends on the quality of sealing interpanel seams.

All work - and preparation, and insulation, and finishing - can be performed independently no higher than the second floor. For work at height, it is necessary to invite specialists with the appropriate permit and professional safety equipment at their disposal.

Gluing and fixing the heat insulator

After preparing the base, you can stick insulation for external walls. I act like this:

In the lower part of the wall I fix the base profile, the width of which corresponds to the thickness of the heat-insulating material. I set the profile according to the level strictly horizontally, fixing it with anchors recessed into the wall by at least 40-50 mm.
I am preparing an adhesive composition based on a dry mix of Ceresit CT-85 or its analogue. I pour the powder with a high content of cement and plasticizers into cool water (the instructions from the manufacturer will tell you the proportions) and mix at least twice with a mixer nozzle installed in an electric drill chuck.

I lay the panel of thermal insulation material face down on the ground. On the wrong side, using a knife or a needle roller, I apply embossed notches that will increase adhesion with the adhesive composition.
I apply an adhesive mass to the insulation - with a strip around the perimeter and several slides in the center of the panel.

I attach the panel to the wall, setting the lower edge into the basement profile. I level the insulation and press it to the base for 30-45 seconds for primary polymerization.
I paste over the selected section of the wall according to the same scheme, placing the panels in a checkerboard pattern - so that the joints between them do not coincide.
Through the panels I drill holes with a diameter of 10 mm. The penetration into the wall fencing should be at least 50-60 mm. For reliable fixation, holes are needed at the corners of the panels, as well as one or two in the center.

The length of the drill used depends on the thickness of the thermal insulation panels used for cladding. In any case, it is useful to have at least two or three drills for concrete with a length of 20 cm or more in the tool kit - they definitely will not be superfluous!

I drive plastic dowels with a dish-shaped neck into the drilled holes. In this case, the wide part of the dowel should be recessed into the insulation by about 2-3 mm.
After installing the dowels, I fix them with special nails (express installation) or locking screws with a conical point.

I fill the gaps between the panels with scraps of insulation, fixing them with adhesive. I blow out small voids with self-expanding polyurethane foam.
I putty the seams and hats of the anchors, using the same mixture for sealing as for gluing.

Finishing

All insulation for the exterior walls of the house, used for "wet" finishing, must be protected from external influences. Most often, plastering technology is used for this, followed by staining.

The technology of plastering on insulation has its own characteristics: we have to work with a base that is not the strongest, therefore, we cannot do without reinforcement to increase adhesion and improve mechanical characteristics:

I glue the corners of the structure and all the joints of the planes with perforated corners made of aluminum or plastic. If there is no corner, you can use a strip of reinforcing mesh.

Then, with the help of a plaster mortar for facade finishing, I glue alkali-resistant paint on all surfaces. polymer mesh for outdoor work. For gluing, I use a spatula, with which I press the mesh into a thin layer of solution applied to polystyrene foam, polystyrene or mineral wool.

In order to avoid delamination, the mesh rolls are overlapped with an overlap of approximately 40-50 mm.

After partial polymerization of the composition with which the mesh was glued, I perform surface grouting. I make grout plaster float without abrasive element.
Then I apply a second leveling layer. facade plaster. After drying, I also rub it, but this time using a plaster mesh or sandpaper. During grouting, I smooth out all the bumps as much as possible, achieving a perfectly smooth surface.

Before finishing, I prime the facade. Under decorative plaster or light facing material the primer Ceresit CT-16 is used, for painting - Ceresit CT-17.

After the polymerization of the primer, I perform the final finish - I paint the facade with pigments for outdoor use (using a roller or spray gun), line it with decorative panels, fixing them with glue, or apply a layer of pre-tinted decorative plaster, forming an attractive relief on its surface.

Dry technology

Foundation preparation

Other methods can be used for external thermal insulation of walls, and one of the most popular is the arrangement of the so-called ventilated facade. This technology involves the installation of heat-insulating material under the cladding, fixed on a special frame, and therefore here it is necessary to pay all attention to preparing the walls for finishing.

By and large, brick walls with insulation are in contact in almost the same way as in the case of a “wet” finish. But a wooden house - from a log or timber - is prepared a little differently:

To begin with, the wood is cleaned, which consists in removing all weakly holding elements - wood chips, bark residues, etc. For a freshly built house, this operation is not mandatory, but it is better to clean up the old back.

The next step is sealing the joints. We pick up a special spatula, a hammer and caulk all the cracks - both the gaps between the crowns, and the cracks in the logs themselves or the bars, formed due to uneven drying. For caulking we use jute, linen tow or special cords made from a mixture of natural and synthetic fibers.
After sealing the cracks, we treat the tree with an antiseptic. Under the layer of thermal insulation, we have an area with increased temperature and humidity, so it is very important for us to protect the tree from the effects of microorganisms, fungi and insects.

Frame installation

Next, we proceed to the installation of the crate, on which the facing material will be held. It can be made either from a wooden beam impregnated with an antiseptic (it will turn out cheaper), or from a galvanized steel profile (it is more expensive, but it serves more and is less prone to deformation).

We work like this:

From the outside of the building, we install brackets on the wall, fixing them with anchors.
To reduce heat loss at the point of contact between the wall and metal, we place either a layer of roofing material or a paronite gasket under the base of each bracket.

We choose the length of the bracket so that it is 10-20 mm more than the thickness of the heat-insulating panels used. This margin is necessary to organize an internal ventilation gap.
On the brackets we install the bars themselves or the profiles of the crate. Their location depends on how they will be attached. finishing panels: for horizontal finishing we need a vertical frame and vice versa.

The use of a metal profile allows you to finish the wall with heat-insulating panels without cracks and gaps. In this case, the frame is attached to the brackets after the installation of the heat insulator.

When installing the crate, we control the position of its elements using a level and a plumb line. It is extremely important that a flat plane is formed - it depends on this how neatly the facade cladding will look.

After completing this stage, you can proceed to the actual insulation.

Insulation and cladding

thermal insulation outer wall at home on the crate is carried out as follows:

Panels of heat-insulating material based on mineral fiber are cut through, forming holes in the places where the brackets pass.
We put the insulation on the brackets and press it tightly against the wall.

For added strength, you can use adhesive compositions, as well as dowel-umbrellas with metal locking screws.

An alternative to this method can be laying mineral wool panels in the cells of the crate, where the heat-insulating material will be held due to its own elasticity. In order for us to succeed, we need to think in advance about the placement of the frame parts, making the cell width equal to the width of the heat-insulating panel.

Another way of warming is spraying the so-called ecowool. This material is a loose substance based on cellulose fiber impregnated with glue. Ecowool is sprayed inside the frame with the help of special pumps and forms an inseparable layer with low thermal conductivity.

We mount a windproof membrane on top of the insulation, which will prevent the wall from blowing through and reduce the risk of wetting the thermal insulation if the cladding loses its tightness. For wind protection, it is worth using special membranes with high vapor permeability: if we take ordinary polyethylene, then condensate will inevitably collect under it, moistening the insulation and reducing its effectiveness.
After that, we install the frame guides (if this has not been done before) and attach the facade trim to them.

For sheathing a ventilated facade over a heat-insulating layer, you can use:

siding (PVC or metal);
block house;
false beam;
durable lining;
planken ( wooden panels heat treated);
products made of wood-polymer composite;
corrugated board (suitable for outbuildings and industrial facilities);
ceramic and porcelain stoneware panels, etc.

When choosing a finishing material, we focus on our financial capabilities, on the complexity of installation, and also on the overall stylistic decision of the building. It is important that the facade looks attractive and lasts long enough, because we provide it with a basic level of energy efficiency thanks to the insulation hidden under the finish!

Materials and tools - reference information

Thermal insulation of walls is a rather laborious process, therefore, it should only be undertaken with proper technical equipment. And first of all, you should think about how we will work on the upper tier, because even in the case of a one-story house, the height turns out to be decent, and neither sticking insulation nor plastering from the ground will work.

So first you need to either purchase or (preferably) rent suitable scaffolding or at least goats with a changing platform height.

In addition, we will need:

perforator with a set of concrete drills and a chisel attachment;
drill;
screwdriver;
foam knife;
a set of spatulas for glue and plaster;
brushes for priming and painting;
measuring tool;
saw for wood or scissors for metal for mounting the crate;
graters with abrasive elements for grinding the surface.

Naturally, each master will add something of his own to this basic set, but the minimum must be at our disposal for sure!

Separately, it is worth talking about the cost of insulation. In the case of centralized facade thermal insulation work, their cost is calculated according to the elemental estimated standards (the collection of GESN 2001-26 "Heat-insulation work" is used). But for private construction, the proposed method is hardly suitable, therefore, when working independently, you need to start from the cost of materials first of all.

In the table below, I will provide an indicative list of prices that you can use when budgeting for thermal insulation work:

Material	unit of measurement	Average cost, rubles
Mineral wool ISOVER stucco facade, 1200x600x100 mm	pack of 4	1400 -1700
Polyfoam facade PSB-S 25, 1000x1000x50 mm	sheet	170 – 220
Expanded polystyrene sheet, 1250x600x50 mm	sheet	180 – 220
Facade mesh alkali-resistant 160 g/m2, 1m	roll 50 m	1200 – 1600
Facade plaster corner	m.	45 – 70
Dowel plate 100x10 mm	100 pieces.	250 – 350
Primer Ceresit CT 16	10 l.	780 — 900
Plaster Knauf Diamant	25 kg	350 — 420
Glue for expanded polystyrene Ivsil Termofix-P	25 kg	350 — 400
Windproof membrane for walls ROCKWOOL	70 m2	1500 — 1700
Sliding bracket for ventilated facade	PCS.	25 -35
Profile for purlins, panel 3 m	PCS.	200 – 350
Vinyl siding, 3500x205 mm	PCS.	120 – 450
Facade porcelain tile, panel 60x60 cm	PCS.	500 – 1200
Larch block house, 22x90 mm	1 m2	650 — 1200

Conclusion

Effective insulation of the outer walls of a brick house, just like the thermal insulation of buildings made of wood or, provides us with a normalization of the microclimate and solid energy savings.

So if you do not want to overpay for heating (and in the summer - also for air conditioning!), Then you should think about how to equip the heat-insulating circuit yourself. This will help you enough. detailed video in this article, as well as advice from practitioners (including mine), which you can get by asking a question in the comments.

For owners of country houses and especially country houses With year-round living Ensuring a constant comfortable temperature in all rooms is always very important. No matter how effective various systems heating, the main factor is always the ability of house structures to retain heat inside the building. First of all, this applies to walls that have largest area the surface of the house and, accordingly, giving out the maximum heat loss of the building. The simplest and most effective method in terms of results is the insulation of walls from the outside. What materials for insulating the walls of the house are the most effective, as well as learn about the technology for performing such work, you can by studying this article.

Heat loss through the wall

The goal of any insulation is to minimize heat exchange with the environment.

Based on this, we can safely say that the external insulation of the walls of the house is very milestone construction work:

Reduce heating costs in winter and air conditioning in summer.
Comfort and coziness in the house not only at the peak of frost and heat, but also in the off-season with minimal use of household heating appliances.

Even quality construction houses from any building materials cannot completely solve the problem of saving heat inside them. There are always invisible gaps between rows of logs or wooden beams, heterogeneity and voids in brick or block masonry, lack of insulation, air cavities, expansion joints in panel and monolithic housing construction.

All the shortcomings of the walls can be clearly identified only with the use of thermal imaging technology. This service is provided by some specialized and construction organizations to assess heat losses during heating of buildings and develop solutions to eliminate them.

The traditional solution to eliminate heat loss are various ways of external insulation of the walls of a private house:

Plaster with various fillers.
Wall cladding with lumber.
External single-row masonry with brick or stone for wooden buildings with filling the resulting gap with heat-insulating materials.
Facing sheet materials() with the use of insulation.
The use of modern hinged facades.

Sometimes the insulation of the walls of a private house with their own hands is also performed from the inside of the premises using sheet or rolled heat-insulating materials, cladding, cladding with a gypsum-fiber sheet,.

The materials and substances used to reduce heat loss are characterized by both their own low thermal conductivity and additional heat retention when they are used due to the multilayer structure (hydro, sound and heat insulation) of wall insulation. After all, such a structure contains air layers that conduct heat poorly.

Advantages of outdoor insulation

Structurally, there are three possibilities for insulating the external load-bearing walls of any building:

Placement of insulation elements inside the wall. Perhaps at the stage of construction or reconstruction of the building. Most often requires design solutions to ensure bearing capacity, constructive and thermal calculation.
From inside the premises. This type of insulation reduces the area and volume of the room, and also creates certain difficulties in carrying out work under cramped conditions in a populated residential building.
Outside the wall. This method is usually not limited by the space for work, delivery and storage of the necessary materials, devices scaffolding and use of lifting mechanisms. Depending on the materials used for insulation and finishing, it is possible to perform work at almost any time of the year.

Important! With external insulation of the walls of the house, moisture condensation due to the temperature difference outside and inside the building does not occur inside the room or wall structure, but outside. This not only solves the problem of sweating and the inevitable formation of fungus when the walls freeze, but also significantly slows down the process of wall destruction due to the cessation of the regular formation of moisture and ice crystals inside the structures. For reliable protection walls outside the house from exposure external factors, it will not be superfluous to use a hinged ventilated facade.

In addition, by insulating the walls from the outside, along the way you will solve at least two more problems - improving sound insulation and appearance building, which is often just as important to the owner and family members. Thermal insulation perfectly absorbs background noise and harsh sounds, and a variety of facing materials of various textures and colors can protect the walls from external influences and radically change the look of the house.

This method of insulation with optimal investment will help to significantly reduce heating costs, which is important given the cost of heating at ever-increasing prices for any energy carriers: firewood, coal, gas and electricity.

You can qualitatively insulate the walls of the house with the help of liquid polyurethane foam. To do this, using special equipment, it is pumped through external holes into air layer between the wall of the house and the interior lining of the room.

Wall materials and methods of their insulation

For the construction of load-bearing walls of buildings, various materials and ready-made structures will be used, as well as different ways and methods of laying, assembly and fastening, binders and fasteners. Physical properties of these substances and materials directly form the dynamics of temperature changes inside the house under the influence of external and internal factors.

Brick and wood, foam and reinforced concrete, blocks of cement mixture with a variety of fillers, prefabricated puff wall structures have different thermal conductivity, thermal inertia, density and strength. Factory building structures made of reinforced concrete have the worst thermal insulation properties, which is most often aggravated by shortcomings and violations. technological process at all stages of the construction of buildings from it. This also applies to precast concrete buildings. All this is important for the correct choice of material and method of external wall insulation.

Materials used for the construction and insulation of the walls of the house

Material name	Density	*Thermal Conductivity Coefficient (W/mK)**
concrete block	2100-2200	0,8-1,74
Brick (red)	1700-1900	0,55-0,96
Wood (pine, spruce)	450-550	0,10-0,18
Polystyrene concrete	900-1100	0,25-0,39
mineral wool	50-100-200	0.045-0.055-0.06 (respectively)
Styrofoam	30	0,04
Styrofoam	100-125-150	0.039-0.051-0.055 (respectively)
Polyurethane foam (PPU)	50	0,033

The main task of the external insulation of the house is to protect the building structures of the wall from contact with too hot or cold outside air and precipitation. In practice, this range varies from traditional sheathing with planed boards, clapboard to the installation of ventilated facade systems.

wall facade

Sheathing and cladding of the external walls of buildings for wind protection and insulation using lumber, roofing felt, technical cardboard, profiled metal sheets, various types of siding with mineral wool mats or foam plastic sheets are the most common way of external insulation.

No less common and still in use today decorative plaster various mixtures with subsequent surface painting. The disadvantages of this type of insulation have always been high labor intensity and fragility of work without constant supervision, current repair of the coating, which is quickly destroyed by temperature extremes and precipitation. The effectiveness of insulation by this method also leaves much to be desired.

The lower the density of the heat-insulating material (the more air closed cells in it), the better properties for insulation it has.

The most popular and used types of thermal insulation of walls today are various mineral wool in rolls or ready-made mats of different sizes, expanded polystyrene sheets, often called polystyrene, fiberglass materials.

More rare are foil polyethylene foam, wood fiberboard, various liquid polymer compositions that foam in the volume to be filled, organosilicon heat-resistant paints, cellulose insulation called ecowool, sprayed polyurethane foam.

On top of the layers of insulation and waterproofing, walls are lined with sheet and tile materials:

professional sheet;
Siding;
Hanging facades.

Good to know! Profiled sheet and siding are the most sold and used facing materials. In addition to their excellent appearance, they qualitatively protect the insulation between them and the wall of the building from all external influences.

outside wall insulation technology

To insulate the surface of the walls of buildings from the outside, several methods and technological methods are used:

Fastening heat-insulating materials to the facade with glue or mechanical fixation. This is followed by a reinforcing mesh, a layer of plaster and a finishing coat. This method is called a wet facade.
Thermal insulation is attached to the wall in the same way as the first method. Then a wall is erected with an air gap in one brick from a facing or ordinary brick, followed by painting.
Fastening alternately the waterproofing layer, insulation, wind protection. On a frame made of a mounting metal profile or wooden block fasten decorative trim from profiled sheet, siding, ceramic tiles.

The choice of wall insulation method depends on many factors:

Type and height of the building;
Material and wall area;
Degrees of freezing and heat loss;
Funding allocated for these works.

It is up to the owner with family members and friends to insulate the walls of a country or country house with their own hands, but it is worth entrusting a specialized construction organization with the work on warming a multi-storey building.

The best option for performing work on external insulation:

It is better to carry out the whole range of works when there are design solutions, thermal and structural calculations, as well as specifications of building materials and fasteners. You can make them yourself or order documentation from specialists. construction organization involved in building insulation.

This approach will save you from a lot of problems: the choice of a suitable certified material, its delivery, installation work, especially at height, which requires mandatory qualifications and permits for such work.

If the owner of a private house is confident in his abilities and building skills, then he can choose the most acceptable method from his point of view, buy materials available everywhere today and insulate the walls outside the house on his own. So you can not only save money, but also enjoy the result.

Unfortunately, quite often there are situations when the walls of the house are not effective enough or do not at all cope with the task of keeping the heat inside the room assigned to them. To solve this problem, the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside will help. The insulation layer will thus become the missing barrier between the cold outside air and the internal microclimate of the house. At the same time, the main wall of the building will be additionally protected from moisture and sunlight, which will positively affect its service life.

Popular insulation options

There are several options for organizing external wall insulation:

fastening the heat insulator to the wall with an adhesive solution and finishing with plaster;
three-layer non-ventilated wall. The insulation is fixed with a solution and, observing air gap, the outer wall is mounted in one brick;
ventilated facade. The wall is protected by waterproofing, on top of which the insulation is strengthened, then the windscreen is mounted and the outer skin of the lining or any other siding is installed on the frame.

Each option has its own nuances in execution. Also on sale are combined or modified insulating materials, for the use of which one should adhere to one's own technology. The technology of warming a house such as a ventilated facade allows you to carry out work even in winter due to the lack of the need to use adhesive solutions.

Examples of wooden wall insulation:

Examples of wall insulation made of brick and concrete:

Features of the choice of material for insulation

Whatever material is chosen for thermal insulation, it will cope with its main task, however, there are a number of features of each of them and a difference in price that must be taken into account. You have to choose from:

(styrofoam), EPPS (extruded polystyrene foam);
mineral wool;
polyurethane foam;
basalt slabs;
cellulose insulation.

The main differences are moisture resistance, vapor permeability and thermal conductivity. The first two parameters are selected taking into account climatic conditions and a suitable installation method to ensure reliable protection of the walls from moisture. Thermal conductivity is important in the calculation required thickness insulation to achieve the desired effect.

It is with the calculation of the required thickness of the insulator that one should begin. To do this, you must use the instructions of SNiP, GOST and SP, or contact the design organization for correct calculations. In this case, all possible heat losses of the house through external walls, window openings, ceilings and roofs, foundations, etc. are taken into account. Only on the basis of the received data, taking into account the power used heating system a decision is made on the choice of the thickness of the layer of heat-insulating material for each type. After that, you can already make a choice and start warming the walls with your own hands. It is important to consider the available material sizes and the number of required layers. For example, it is not at all necessary to dwell on the choice of foam concrete, if, according to calculations, it is required to lay it in two or even three layers, it is better to choose mineral wool or polyurethane foam several times less thick.

The stage of preparing the wall for insulation

Having finished with the choice of materials, you can proceed to the main work on the insulation of the house. The first step is to prepare the surface for further work. If necessary, the old layer of plaster or insulator is removed down to the base. As a result, a flat surface of a brick, block or wooden wall should remain.

Due attention should be paid to the priming of the surface. If there are significant differences in the levels on the wall, that is, recesses or protrusions over 1-2 cm, then they should be repaired with mortar or combed to an acceptable level. It is best to use a primer with deep penetration. Before priming, the wall is cleaned of dust and dirt.

In order for the insulation layer to turn out to be even and not interfere with the subsequent stages of the construction of the outer wall of the facing brick or plastering, a system of lighthouses and plumb lines should be mounted in advance. They will determine the plane of the outer edge of the insulation, which will facilitate installation.

A strong thread is tied to anchors or screws fixed along the upper edge of the wall and lowered with plumb lines to the very bottom. Horizontal threads are also tied between them. As a result, a control grid is obtained, along which you can navigate when installing a heat insulator or frame.

After that, you can proceed to the next steps, which are somewhat different for each type of material.

Insulation works: expanded polystyrene, EPS

A special shelf from a corner is installed along the bottom of the wall to align the first layer of foam sheets. The fixing of the material is carried out on special adhesive solutions. Next, the sheets are applied and pressed against the wall. The correctness and evenness of the installation is controlled by a grid of plumb lines and a level.

The next layer of foam should be mounted after the previous one has set. In this case, it is desirable to shift the sheets by half relative to the previous layer. Sheets are fixed with special anchor fasteners "fungi" at four corners and in its center. Due to the displacement of the rows, the corner anchor of each sheet will also hold the middle of the lower or upper. At the corners of the building and in places around the window openings, the foam is fixed with metal corners. All joints between sheets should be glued with reinforcing plaster tape.

A reinforcing mesh is fixed on top of the expanded polystyrene or EPS layer and plastering is performed. It is best to use polystyrene foam to insulate brick walls or monolithic concrete. A significant drawback in this case is only the low vapor permeability of the material, which can interfere with the normal removal of moisture and condensate from the wall. Mandatory requirement before using polystyrene foam is a quality drying of the walls. Otherwise, it is better to use partially ventilated or ventilated facades. At the same time, moisture will not linger on the surface of the main walls, and spoil their mechanical properties.

Ultimately, after the completion of the work, there should be no gaps or open spaces with access to the foam. This is necessary to protect the material from damage by rodents.

Insulation works: mineral wool

Methods for mounting insulation using mineral wool are similar to those for use cellulose insulation and basalt slabs.

In order for the sheets and mats of mineral wool to be securely held, a frame system and a crate made of wooden beams are mounted on the wall. The width of the crate should be 2-3 cm less than a sheet of mineral wool. In this case, it will fit tightly between the bars without gaps. In addition to the crate, anchors are installed on which sheets of material will be put on. At uneven wall a two-layer mineral wool is best suited, in which the layers differ in density. A soft layer is directed to the wall, which ensures reliable adhesion to the wall.

In terms of external cladding, mineral wool is the most versatile. Many of its types allow plastering using a reinforcing mesh. In addition, it is possible to fix the insulation with an external horizontal crate, under which a wind protection in the form of a dense polyethylene film is laid, and use various types of cladding: Brick wall, clapboard lining or other siding. This results in a ventilated three-layer insulation that is suitable for most types of climate. This is how walls should be insulated. wooden house so that the wood has the ability to breathe and not accumulate moisture.

Insulation works: polyurethane foam

The option of using polyurethane foam is similar to the principle of installing mineral wool when building frame structure with external wind protection. The polyurethane foam solution is poured directly into the frame between the wall and the film. Adhesion to the wall is maximized, which ensures best indicator thermal insulation. However, in modern construction, polyurethane foam is more widely used in the insulation of attics and roof slopes. This is argued by the fact that it is more difficult to form a layer of insulation on vertical surfaces, because initially it is a foamed liquid.

Video: instructions for insulating walls outside with your own hands

Many are faced with such a problem, heat is not stored in a heated room, the reason for this may be the dissipation of thermal energy through the walls. How to deal with it? How to keep warm inside the house? How to insulate a house? What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? For this, the house is insulated. The most correct solution would be to insulate the walls of the room, their outer part, you can use any heat insulator for this.

He will be able to create protection for warm indoor air from the outside cold and will effectively maintain the necessary microclimate of the room. Also, the advantages of insulating external walls include their protection from water vapor and light radiation, which will significantly extend their service life.

What is the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the outside? What is the best way to insulate a house? How to insulate stone house, brick or wooden? High-quality thermal insulation is the key to comfort and coziness of a private or country house.

How to insulate a house with your own hands? How to carry out good thermal insulation and do it in the best way?

In total, there are three main types of thermal insulation work in a private house:

The insulation is fixed directly to the wall using special glue or other devices. Then it is covered with a construction mesh and plastered for finishing materials.
In this case, the heat insulator is also mounted on the wall of the room, but then an additional brick wall is installed on the foundation. A small air space or gap is left between the insulation and the wall. With this method, the heat insulator is not plastered.
This insulation option consists of several phased work. First of all, the walls of the house are covered with a special waterproofing film, then the material selected as a heater is mounted, after which it is necessary to install protection against water vapor and wind. And only after that, with the help of a special frame made of wooden beams or metal guides, materials for the external cladding of the premises are installed, such as various siding, lining, ceramic tiles and much more. The use of this variant, the so-called ventilated facade, can be carried out at any time of the year, since there is no need to use any mortar.

The considered options represent a general direction, in each of them there may be certain changes associated with the use of certain materials as a heater. The modern market for thermal insulation materials is quite wide and some of them may require a different installation method.

Also, the choice of a heat insulator, its parameters depend on the material from which the walls of the house are made. As an example, consider the principles of installing insulation for wooden, brick and concrete walls.

Installation of heaters

What to insulate? Any heat insulator has certain properties, but in any case, it will be able to keep your home warm. They differ in price, in the material from which they are made and in such parameters as moisture resistance, vapor permeability and thermal conductivity. Heaters, which are presented on construction market: expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, polyurethane foam, basalt slab and cellulose insulation.

The use of one or another insulating material is associated with climatic conditions, the method of installation work and the coefficient of thermal conductivity. The calculation takes into account the width bearing wall, the thermal conductivity of the insulator, the internal temperature of the room. Then you can start installing the heater. How to prepare a wall for the installation of insulation?

Consider the instruction:

First of all, you need to clean the wall from old plaster and other materials up to the material from which it is made.
After that, it is necessary to level the wall surfaces, close up cracks and pits and chop off protrusions, clean dust and dirt, and carefully apply a primer, not missing a single centimeter of the area.

A primer should be used that has the property of deep penetration into the wall, choosing one or another type depending on the material from which the primed surface is made.

Installation of insulation should be done in an even layer without surface curvature, depressions and protrusions, using the tools provided for this: beacons, plumb lines, levels, corners and others. Otherwise, you may encounter problems with further wall plastering or installation of facing material, that is, applying different thickness plaster material and installation of additional guides. What does the beacon system look like? Screws are screwed on the upper edge of the surface, several pieces depending on the length of the wall, on which a dense thread with a metal plumb line is hung at the bottom.
After that, horizontal threads are installed that connect all the vertical ones. Thus, a network is formed that will determine the level during the installation of a heater or frame system. After carrying out such preparatory work, you can proceed with the installation of a heat insulator.

Can be made with different materials. How to insulate the walls of the house from the outside? How do materials differ from each other?

Use of Styrofoam

Use of expanded polystyrene as a heater. How to insulate a house from the outside with polystyrene foam? You need to properly insulate according to the instructions.

Installation instructions for this thermal insulation product:

At the beginning, it is necessary to install a corner along the lower edge of the wall, observing the desired level - the first layer of heat insulator will be aligned along it. It is installed using special glue, glue for ceramic tiles is also suitable.
The sheets are pressed tightly against the wall and leveled with plumb lines and a level. The second layer of material is applied after the final drying of the first, so as not to knock it off the level.

It should be noted that the sheets of each subsequent level are mounted in a brick order, that is, the seam of the lower level is located in the middle of the sheet of the next row. This is done so that the sheets of the bottom row hold the top ones.

From the second row, expanded polystyrene is attached using special anchors, "umbrellas", as they are called differently. They are driven into each of the four corners and into the center of the sheet.
Vertical and horizontal seams are glued with construction tape with reinforcing properties. AT window openings and at the corners of the walls of the heaters it is additionally fastened with corners made of metal.
After the wall is completely covered with insulation, a building mesh is mounted on it, then plaster can be applied.

Expanded polystyrene is best suited for insulating walls made of brick and concrete. This installation of insulation has its negative sides. So, for example, this material has a low permeability to water vapor, as a result of which the condensate that will accumulate in the wall can eventually lead to it getting wet.

To avoid this, before installation work to establish a heater, the walls must be dried qualitatively. It is also important to keep them dry during operation. If all this cannot be achieved, then in this case it is better to use the method of installing insulation, which provides for its ventilation.

Remember that in the end there should not be a place where there will be access to polystyrene foam, otherwise small rodents can damage it, it will also be affected environment resulting in damage and loss of performance.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of the house can be carried out using polystyrene foam.

The use of mineral wool

Many are inclined to believe that it is better to insulate the walls with mineral wool. Mineral wool - another popular insulation. How to insulate a private house with mineral wool? Mounting this insulation similar in its technological procedures to thermal insulation made with basalt or cellulose slabs.

Installation instructions for mineral wool:

In the beginning, wall preparation is always required. We will clean the walls of old plaster and try to level the surface.
Then you should proceed with the installation of the frame. It is made of wooden beams, by creating a vertical and horizontal lathing. At the same time, the width and length of the empty space should be less than the insulation sheet by about thirty millimeters - this the necessary conditions so that the mineral wool sheet enters it easily and does not form a large gap.
As fastening sheets of mineral wool are mounted anchor bolts, on which the material is hung. Since most often the walls remain uneven, it is better to use mineral wool, consisting of two layers. At the same time, a softer layer is installed directly on the wall, thanks to its structure, the most excellent connection of sheets with a heat-insulated surface occurs.

On some versions of mineral wool, plaster can be applied after installing the building mesh or a special vapor-permeable insulating film can be installed. Then you need to strengthen it and the heat insulator with additional wooden beams, after which the facing material is installed. Suitable lining, various siding, tiles and facing bricks.

This type of home insulation, three-layer ventilated, has proven itself in all climatic zones. It is especially suitable for walls made of wood, as it allows this product breathe and not get wet.

Use of polyurethane foam

How to properly insulate a house with polyurethane foam? When mounting this heater, you must adhere to the same frame structure, as with mineral wool insulation with the installation of wind protection. At the same time, polyurethane foam is foamed onto the wall in a place free from the frame under the film, forming a very strong connection with the wall, thanks to which an excellent result is achieved in preserving heat inside the premises.

But there is one drawback - when using this type of insulation, when mounted on vertical walls, it is difficult to form a layer of the same thickness, so it is most often used on horizontal surfaces such as ceilings or sloped roofs. Insulating walls with polyurethane is not difficult. It is necessary to insulate the house (booth) using additional products.

The use of basalt slabs

The insulation of the walls of the house from the outside can be carried out using basalt slabs. During the installation of this thermal insulation product, it is necessary to additionally apply a vapor barrier film.

Laying this protective film is carried out on the bars, which have a horizontal position, and between the rafters. Then it is necessary to seal the formed joints. Sealing is carried out using a specially designed tape. The layer should be 200 millimeters. Next, a layer of wind protection is laid, and a coating of purlins is made thanks to the beams. This is done in order to provide ventilation.

Before starting the insulation of external walls with this material, it is necessary to make a coating of purlins - this is different from the thermal insulation of the internal walls of a building. Leave a gap for ventilation. Attachment of basalt slabs is carried out thanks to self-tapping screws. The final stage of installation includes finishing the surface with siding or some other coating.

To insulate walls from the outside with basalt slabs, you must strictly follow the rules. Warming of a private house is often carried out using basalt slabs.

Cellulose use

How to insulate walls with cellulose? Cellulose can be mounted using three methods: mechanical, dry, wet.

The first method of mounting involves the use of dedicated hardware. Do-it-yourself wall insulation mechanically from the outside is quite expensive. The mechanical method has a high performance. This method allows the walls to "breathe". Therefore, it is not necessary to apply a vapor barrier layer.

The dry mounting method is used only for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces. How are walls insulated from the outside using this method? The insulation product is applied to the walls manually without the use of special equipment. First, the pulp must be fluffed, this is done with a drill.

Then it must be poured out of the container to the surface. Next is its tamping. If, nevertheless, the insulation needs to be applied to a vertical surface, then the work will take place in two stages. First you need to build a wall from the frame, the height of which should be 50 centimeters. Then you need to pour in a heat-insulating product and tamp it. So other parts of the walls are also insulated.

Wet method - it is used for thermal insulation of vertical structures. First, the cellulose must be moistened with water. Thanks to this procedure, the cellulose will seize without problems.

All methods of insulation can be used to insulate a private house from the outside. Or it will be the insulation of a country house.

What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? There are various materials for insulating walls outside. Each thermal insulation material has its own advantages and disadvantages. The main thing is to be cheap, inexpensive, but of high quality. Use the material for warming the house outside, which has high technical characteristics.

We hope the description of each of them will help you to make right choice. Wall insulation from the outside important element in achieving general comfort. You can insulate the house from the outside with your own hands without anyone's help. You will achieve maximum comfort and coziness in the house.