Fastening the lining in the room horizontally. Sheathing of walls with clapboard on the crate

Nowadays, the range of finishing materials is very diverse. High-quality and beautiful products can be selected for both outdoor and indoor use. Separately, it is worth highlighting such a popular material as lining. Today we will consider in detail how to fix it correctly.

Peculiarities

The rooms, finished with wooden materials, look incredibly cozy and hospitable. That is why many buyers opt for such design options.

For such an attractive performance, you can use the most different coatings , from special wooden panels to wood grain laminate. However, one of the most popular and sought after are recognized different types lining. This material is not uncommon - it is easy to find in specialized stores.

High-quality lining made of wood is distinguished by an impressive service life. According to manufacturers, such products can serve without problems from 15-20 years, without losing their original appearance.

The durability of the lining largely depends on proper care by the owners of the home. Such coatings should be treated from time to time with special antiseptic compounds. They are necessary to protect the natural material from the appearance of fungus or mold. It's no secret that wood is a favorite "dish" of various insects, but with the use of special impregnations, such problems can be forgotten.

As a rule, lining is processed by similar means at the stage of its manufacture. However, over time, the material will still need self care. Fortunately, the stores sell a lot of suitable products and varnishes that will provide the lining with excellent protection from negative external factors.

Advantages and disadvantages

Lining is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular materials. Consumers choose this finish because it not only has a harmonious and natural appearance, but also a number of other positive qualities.

• The main advantage of lining is its environmental friendliness. Currently, not every finishing material can boast of such quality. The lining does not emit dangerous and harmful substances, even if it is at high temperatures.
• The lining can be given a perfectly smooth and pleasant to the touch surface.

• To install such wooden panels, it is not at all necessary to involve professional teams of finishers. Fastening such materials can be done on your own, following simple instructions.
• Many consumers note the pleasant woody aroma inherent in such finishing materials. Thanks to this property, an indescribable atmosphere is created in the room.
• High-quality lining boasts resistance to mechanical damage and strong shocks. It is not so easy to break or damage.
• The lining is not a easily soiled material, however, if contamination appears on its surface, then it will not take much effort to remove them.

• Worth noting are the excellent thermal insulation properties lining. A room in which such a finish is present will always maintain a comfortable microclimate.
• The lining also has soundproofing properties. Thanks to such materials, the audibility of extraneous annoying noises in the room is significantly reduced.
• Under the lining, you can hide unpresentable elements such as wires and various communications.

• This finish can be used not only in a country or village house, but also in an ordinary city apartment.
• Clapboard can finish not only the walls, but also the ceiling. Ceilings designed in this way look very aesthetically pleasing and neat.

Of course, lining has its drawbacks. You should also familiarize yourself with them if you want to refer to this material in the design of your home.

• To install the lining often requires a frame. Most often to such mounting structures have to apply if we are talking about the ceiling finish. Also, you can’t do without a frame if the walls in the room are too uneven and have noticeable differences.

• The disadvantages of lining include the fact that it is not fireproof. Certainly, given quality can be corrected if the material is processed by special means, but even they will not make such raw materials 100% non-flammable.
• Over the years, lining can change its geometric parameters. Most often, such deformations occur if the owners improperly looked after the finish or mounted it incorrectly.
• Lining cannot be called a cheap material. Moreover, many consumers consider it quite expensive.
• It was mentioned above that the lining must be periodically looked after, treated with special protective compounds. Most consumers consider this feature to be a disadvantage.

Kinds

There are several types of lining. They are made from different materials and have different performance characteristics. Let's consider them in more detail.

Wooden

The most popular is rightfully recognized lining made of wood.

The process of its manufacture is quite complex and takes place in several stages. Due quality of such finishing material can be achieved only if you strictly adhere to a certain technology:

• first, the edged board is prepared;
• after that it is dried in a special industrial way;
• further work is carried out on cutting grooves;
• then the wooden lining is carefully polished;
• at the end of all production processes, the resulting panels are always sorted.

The properties of wooden lining largely depend on the type of wood from which it is made.

Aspen

Aspen boards are distinguished by a light shade. There are practically no resins in their composition. Such materials boast good thermal insulation characteristics, so they are often used for interior decoration premises.

Aspen lining can also be installed in baths or saunas. Of course, in such cases, one should not forget about the high-quality processing of the material so that it does not rot.

From spruce

As a rule, northern spruce is used for the manufacture of lining. It is quite dense and hard wood. Such finishing materials can decorate not only the walls in the dwelling, but also the ceiling.

Spruce lining is not afraid of dampness and moisture. However, it should be borne in mind that over time it changes its color and becomes darker.

from pine

Pine lining is one of the most common. It is inexpensive, but has excellent quality, so many consumers choose it.

Pine lining is distinguished by a beautiful natural structure, which also becomes darker over time.

from oak

Oak lining is expensive, but this does not affect its popularity. Such a finishing material is not subject to decay and is easy to process.

The main advantages of oak lining are its amazing color and structure. With the help of such decoration, you can transform the interior, making it richer and more solid. Experts say that oak lining must be stained and pickled.

Hardwood

Lining made of hardwood practically does not emit resins and is characterized by low density. Thanks to these characteristics, it can be safely used in the lining of a bath or sauna.

Wooden lining can also have a different cross section.

• Standard. These panels come with standard lock system thorn-groove. As a rule, the spikes in the lining are always slightly shorter than the grooves. This is necessary so that with a strong drying of the wood, deformation of the material does not occur. Panels with a standard section have good sound and heat insulation.
• "Calm". Otherwise, panels with such a cross section are called "collective farmer". They have rounded outside corners. Such materials look very neat and tidy.
• Eurolining. Such types of wooden lining have a longer groove, so as a result the surface acquires a completely different appearance.
• Softline. Such finishing materials also have rounded bevels and a long groove.

Also lining made of wood is divided into classes.

• "BUT". Panels belong to this class. High Quality. Small knots are sometimes visible on their surface, but they do not fall out. Also on such materials you can find a few small slits and cracks. Clapboard class "A" can be safely used for interior decoration.
• "AT". Planks of this class have a length of 1.5 m. On their surface there can be no more than 3-4 knots. Also, these types of lining have small resin pockets and non-through slots. Experts do not recommend the use of such materials for interior cladding.
• "WITH". Materials in this class are not of high quality. As a rule, they decorate outbuildings for which design is not so important. In such slats, noticeable knots can fall out, and also there are often through cracks. Their color is far from the standard.
• "Extra". Clapboard class "Extra" is an ideal finishing material. There are no defects on the surface of such panels.

metal

Instead of wood, you can use metal lining. Most often to such facing materials apply when you need to arrange the base, which is in conditions of high humidity. Such panels are not afraid of negative external influences and protect the base on which they are installed from them.

Many consumers opt for a metal lining, as it has an almost unlimited service life. She does not require complex and regular care, which speaks of her unpretentiousness.

Metal lining is good because it is presented in a very rich color spectrum. In addition, this finishing material may have a different texture.

advantage metal panels is that they are non-flammable and do not support combustion. Popular wooden coatings cannot boast of such qualities.

Such materials are also environmentally friendly. They do not contain hazardous compounds that are harmful to human health. You can install a metal lining with your own hands. Moreover, this material can be mounted both on the wall and on the ceiling.

plastic

If metal and wooden types of lining seem too expensive to you, then you should look for more affordable ones. plastic options. Such coatings are made of polyvinyl chloride. This material is safe for human health, so you don’t have to worry about the well-being of household members.

As a rule, the width of PVC lining is 10 cm. Similar parameters are also wooden elements. In addition, plastic panels can be used not only for interior, but also for exterior decoration of the home.

Plastic lining is not only monophonic, but also multi-colored. In some shops you can meet even more original materials having interesting prints or patterns. Especially popular today are panels that imitate natural wood.

For exterior finish it is recommended to use a special frost-resistant lining. For its manufacture, special plastic is used, supplemented with the necessary additives. Such a finishing material easily tolerates both low and high temperatures.

Plastic lining for outdoor work cannot boast such a wide selection different colors. Here, as a rule, monochrome versions of soothing tones are used, as well as wood-like coatings.

The advantages of PVC lining include:

• heat and noise insulation properties;
• fire safety;
• resistance to high temperatures;
• resistance to mechanical damage;

• moisture permeability;
• light weight;
• democratic cost (especially when compared with natural wood materials);
• unpretentiousness.

Plastic lining does not need to be regularly looked after using expensive products. In addition, it is very easy to remove dirt and dust.

Wall preparation

Before mounting the lining (especially if it is wooden), it is necessary to prepare the walls with high quality. After purchase, the lining itself should be placed in a dry room for at least a day. There she must settle down and adapt to room temperature. Only after that you can start cutting the finishing material to give it the desired length. If you neglect this stage of work, the panels will not be tightly attached to each other.

As for the walls themselves, they will need to provide good vapor barrier. To do this, they first need to nail the slats. Their width should not be less than 3 cm. These elements must be nailed in 1 m increments. Then you need to take a film of polyethylene, foil or roofing felt and install it on fixed rails. Small holes should be made at the top and bottom of the vapor barrier to provide better ventilation.

This stage cannot be called strictly mandatory, however, experts recommend using it if we are talking about a room with a high level of humidity from the outside.

Next, you need to build a high-quality crate for wooden lamellas. Reiki with a cross section of 20x40 cm must be screwed with a screwdriver. Keep a step of 40-50 cm (horizontally). Constantly check the correct installation of all parts using the mounting level.

With the help of rails, you can qualitatively level the wall before installing the lining. Thus, the boards will be much easier to attach to the base. In addition, such a frame should also be assembled so that the gap between the ceiling and the wood trim is ventilated.

If the walls do not have a flat surface, then something additional needs to be laid under the crate. You can also build a crate of greater thickness. For lining, a sheet of plywood, a block of wood or a mounting wedge is best suited. The crate should be fixed with long self-tapping screws and dowel-nails. The lower rails should recede 5 cm from the floor, as there will be a plinth in this area. The same indentation should be followed in the upper part of the structure, since there will also be a plinth, but already a ceiling one.

The crate must be mounted around the door or window openings. Such structures are made not only from wood, but also from metal or plastic.

If you did not install a vapor barrier on the base, then the crate should be mounted directly to the wall. If it is present:

• if the rails to which the vapor barrier was attached were fixed vertically, then the details of the crate should be installed horizontally and vice versa;
• fastening the crate to the rails, on which the vapor barrier layer lies, must be done with long self-tapping screws.

In the "windows" that appear, insulation should be laid. Experts recommend purchasing mineral wool for this. The insulation should be fixed with polypropylene spar so that it does not shrink over time.

On the insulation, you can lay another layer of vapor barrier. It should be attached with the rough side to the insulating layer.

Instruments

For the installation of the frame and wall cladding with clapboard, you must have the following devices:

• screwdriver;
• perforator with the necessary nozzles;
• building level;
• a hammer;
• mallet;
• jigsaw;
• electric stapler;
• wooden corners;
• self-tapping screws;
• mounting gun;
• nails;
• profile (for the frame);
• staples.

Mounting methods

In total, two main options for fastening the lining are used. They differ from each other in directions. Let's consider them in more detail.

Vertical

The vertical fastening of the lining occurs in this way:

• The starting part is installed in the corner. To do this, use nails, which are then hidden under decorative corner. If you don’t have this item, then you can simply “bite off” the hats with side cutters. Hammer nails as carefully and carefully as possible.
• Always check if you are doing the vertical laying of the lining correctly - any errors can lead to the fact that the following lamellas will curve more and more.
• The fixed part must be attached with clamps. After that, you can proceed to the installation of the remaining lamellas. However, they must first be inserted into the grooves, and only then fastened.
• Every 5 elements, it is necessary to check the evenness of the surface using a level and a plumb line.
• The final lamella must be sawn to the required dimensions.

Horizontal

To lay the lining in a horizontal way, the following rules should be observed:

• In this case, the slats must be fixed, starting from the ceiling. The groove must point down. If the finish looks like a round log, then it should be installed with the groove up to hide the docking points.
• Fasten the parts together according to the same principle as with the vertical installation method. It should be borne in mind that for a more reliable fixation, the boards should be lined with dies.
• Gradually descending from top to bottom, it will be much more convenient to fasten all the lamellas with carnations. It is very important to hammer them in such a way as not to harm the front side of the lining.

Material Quantity Calculation

When choosing a lining, you need to understand the amount of finishing material that you need. As a rule, the cost of wooden lamellas is indicated in square meters (less often in cubic meters). However, an elementary mathematical calculation in this case will not work, since the quadrature will be influenced by such parameters as the length of the lamellas, the height of the ceilings in the house, the dimensions of the door and window openings.

There are two ways to help calculate the amount of lining.

• Intuitive. Following this method, you should calculate the perimeter of the surface area that is planned to be finished with lamellas. From here you need to calculate the dimensions of the openings. Add to the result 10-30% for waste. This calculation method is simple, but not the most accurate.
• Mathematical. This method of calculation is more rigorous. To do this, you need to count the lamellas individually, taking into account their length and width, as well as the size of the openings. For calculation, it is necessary to divide the parameter of the surface length by the width of the lamella. So you can determine the required number of lining. As a result of all calculations, it will be possible to obtain enough exact value. In this case, no more than 10% can be left for waste.

If you decide to sheathe the walls in the house with clapboard with your own hands, then you Some simple guidelines should be followed:

• During installation, make sure that there are no ugly gaps between the lamellas. You can avoid these defects if you constantly monitor the level of laying the material.
• When calculating the required amount of material, do not forget about elements such as doors and windows. You need to build a frame around them. Slopes from the lining can also be built with your own hands. The main thing is to adhere to the correct dimensional parameters.

• If you want to refresh the atmosphere, then you need to create various geometric images on the floors with your own hands. To do this, you need to adhere to several options for the layout of the lamellas at once.
• In winter, laying lining on the walls is not recommended. It is better to postpone such work until summer or spring so that the material does not undergo deformation.
• If you chose a lining for finishing, which has the shape of a rounded log, then you should install it with the groove up. This is necessary to hide the docking of individual parts.

• Many users are sure that lining can only be mounted on a metal profile. Of course, such structures can be used, but they are more suitable for those cases where the floors in the room have too strong irregularities and drops.
• The diagonal upholstery of the walls with clapboard looks original. It should be made on a frame in which the racks are located at a closer distance to each other.

• After installation, the lining will require regular maintenance. To do this, you need a primer on wood, antiseptic compounds, bio-oil, alkyd varnish, antipyrine forming a refractory layer and other similar substances. According to experts, the lining must be processed before its direct installation.
• When choosing suitable material pay attention to its class, since it is recommended to sheathe living quarters with some lamellas, and outbuildings with others. Of course, for interior cladding it is best to use the most quality materials extra class.
• Stock up on all the necessary tools in advance. Self-tapping screws should be screwed with a screwdriver, as this will take a minimum of time. However, do not forget about accuracy. Work carefully so as not to damage the finishing material.
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It is difficult to find a more common finishing material than lining, which people fell in love with largely because of its versatility and low price. Meanwhile, it has another noticeable plus, which is impossible to pass by - this is the ease of fastening. Almost every person, armed with the necessary tools and materials, can independently attach it to the wall. However, in order to be sure of the result, especially if you are doing it for the first time, it would be useful to learn about the main intricacies of this simple operation. Our today's step-by-step instruction is devoted to how to properly fix the lining to the wall.

Characteristics of the material. All the pros and cons

Materials of natural origin have always been held in high esteem by people. Even at a time when environmental safety issues were still of little concern. Basically, modern lining is made from tree species that grow almost everywhere:

• aspen;
• cedar;
• Linden;
• coniferous species.

also in recent times plastic lining has gained particular popularity. It imitates wood, but is cheaper. Someone looks at such a "surrogate" with a fair amount of disdain, but as sales of finishing materials show, they are a small minority.




Let's take a look at its main trump cards:

1. simple processing;
2. long-term preservation of operational properties;
3. disguise of engineering communications;
4. high soundproofing performance;
5. visual appeal.

What can be said about the shortcomings? Every material has them, and lining in this sense cannot be an exception.

1. susceptibility to moisture and temperature changes;
2. the possibility of drying and cracking under the influence of specific temperature conditions;
3. the potential for the appearance of fungus (how to get rid of fungus on the walls);
4. combustibility:
5. the presence of harmful substances (for plastic lining)

Do not rush to get upset: almost all of these pluses are easy to fix if you take care of preventive treatment with antiseptics and water repellents in time. Only after that you can confidently attach the lining to any wall surface, knowing that nothing bad will happen to it over time.


There is another option for using a metal lining:

• steel;
• aluminum.

Such material will definitely not rot or deform, and will not emit substances hazardous to life. However, it tends to get hot, so you should avoid placing it in places exposed to the sun, as well as near light sources and water pipes (read how to hide pipes without mounting them into a wall).

A few tips for choosing the right material will definitely not be superfluous. Moreover, there are a lot of options on the market, and it will not be easy for a beginner to figure out which material is better to attach to the wall.

1. try to choose boards with a maximum width - it is easier to carry out subsequent installation of the material;
2. in the case of vertical fixation of the lining, ensure that its length matches the height of the room;
3. the optimal choice of wood species for a bath is deciduous for a steam room and coniferous for a shower or dressing room;
4. the main criterion for the purchase is the dryness of the material, if you notice even slight moisture, refrain from buying, as installation will be impossible.

Preparatory moment. Markup and counting

It is present in every type of installation work.

• do everything necessary measurements in room;
• calculate the required amount of finishing material;
• decide how many consumables you need to buy for the frame structure;
• equip your working area, getting rid of all that is superfluous, if there is some kind of overall furniture nearby, then it is better to cover it with a film to avoid contamination.

Preparation of tools and materials

Here, even a beginner, who has never taken on any home editing, is difficult to surprise with something. All the same classic set of tools:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• level;
• cord plumb;
• meter;
• pencil.

And here is necessary materials:

• bars for crates;
• dowels;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• kleimers.

And, in fact, the lining itself. Nothing would be possible without her!

Frame installation

The main thing to face at this stage is the choice of location. battens.

• horizontally;
• vertically.

To do this, proceed from how you will attach the material to the wall:

• if the lining is located vertically, then the crate must be fixed in a horizontal position;
• if the lining is placed horizontally, then, accordingly, the frame must be fixed vertically.

Everything else - according to the scheme:

1. prepare wooden blocks with a thickness of 1 centimeter and drill holes in them with a minimum step of 50 centimeters, they should be about 1.5 mm smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screws;
2. attach the bars to the wall and mark points through the holes for subsequent drilling;
3. drill holes in the wall according to the marks made and insert the prepared dowels;
4. fix the bars to the dowels, controlling the accuracy of fixing with a level, you can also make a plywood gasket under the rail for convenient operation or buy leveling wedges in the store and install the battens in this way with minimal effort.

Installation of lining

We have already noted above that lining boards can be mounted on the wall both horizontally and vertically. Each option has its own nuances, due to the specifics of use in a particular room.

Vertical arrangement

• visually increases the height of the room;
• pushes its upper and lower boundaries;
• recommended for use in bath rooms, as it promotes optimal air circulation.

Fixation method: finishing nails, kleimers, decorative screws.



Installation nuances:

1. fixing should start from the corner;
2. after the board is leveled, it is nailed, and the hat is bitten off with a side cutter, if kleimers are used, then they are nailed to the frame, and the second part into the groove of the board;
3. when fixing the lining on the wall, check every 5-10 boards whether evenness is observed, a corded plumb line is ideal for this;
4. the last lining is adjusted to the desired size with a hacksaw.

Horizontal arrangement

• increases the width of the room;
• suitable for high rooms;
• emphasizes the visual volume of the room.

Fixation method: finishing nails, kleimers, self-tapping screws.




Installation nuances:

1. fixation should begin from the ceiling and gradually go down;
2. every ten boards check the evenness of the fit;
3. the last board is cut to the right sizes with a hacksaw for wood;
4. all fragments are knocked close to each other with a hammer;
5. the joint between the wall and the floor can be closed with a beautiful plinth.

Informative video dedicated to the features of lining installation:

Of course, having carefully studied the proposed step-by-step instructions, you are unlikely to become a pro, but for your first "acquaintance" with the material, definitely prepare. Here are a couple more good tips to help you avoid common mistakes among beginners when attaching popular material to the wall:

1. the lining bought in the store should be unpacked and laid face down on any flat surface - it is advisable to let it stand for a couple of days and only then proceed with the installation;
2. minimal allowable temperature indoors with direct installation - 5 degrees Celsius, if lower - any operations with the material should be postponed until "better times";
3. after the lining is already fixed on the crate, it is recommended to varnish it - this way you can achieve different type textures on the surface: glossy, matte, with the effect of wet asphalt, stone, etc.;
4. you should not attach hardwood lining to the wall when it comes to outdoor work - only conifers are used for this purpose;
5. if you plan to use the lining in the bathroom, toilet, balcony or kitchen, then it is best to use an alternative made of plastic or aluminum - it will last much longer;
6. but for a bedroom, hall, hallway, a classic wooden lining is ideal;
7. do not use plastic elements in the steam room - heat provokes the release of chemical reagents that can adversely affect the health of you, your guests and loved ones.

Conclusion

Of course, knowing how to properly fix the lining to the wall can come in handy more than once in your life. Especially if you get own house- and you will systematically equip all these countless square meters under yourself. There is absolutely nothing complicated about this - mounting a lining on a wall is one of the simplest finishing operations, and visible difficulties are nothing more than fleeting moments that easily go away with the accumulation of your experience.
You can improve your skills all your life - and why not start learning new things with the operation we were talking about today? To further expand your installation skills, we advise you to read the article: "How to fix drywall to a wall: 2 ways with photos and videos".








Photo: vk.com

Clapboard - versatile material. With its help, you can decorate a house or apartment, attaching it to the ceiling, external and external walls, upholstering doors with it. Installation of lining does not take much time and does not require special knowledge, so a beginner can do it.

Peculiarities

By itself, fastening the lining does not cause any particular difficulties. Mounting it is easy, especially if you have experience in the construction industry.

Speaking about the merits of this material, we can cite the most important of them.

• Environmental friendliness. Lining is made on special technology. Whatever material it is made of, you can be sure that the lamellas will not emit harmful substances. They are absolutely safe for humans, animals and the environment.
• aesthetic appeal. Visually, the lining is rated as stylish and solid. It brings comfort to any room. Depending on the installation method, using the lining, you can expand the room or increase the height of the ceilings in it.

• Ease of installation. This is one of those properties that attract every owner who decides to do the cladding or interior decoration of the house with his own hands.
• Strength. Lining well transfers mechanical influences, without being afraid of blows and friction. It is not so easy to scratch it, and in which case you can quickly eliminate the flaw by simply sanding it and varnishing the area.
• Ease of maintenance. The lining is easy to clean. In addition, it is practically not subject to pollution.

This material also has one drawback - high cost. High-quality lining is expensive, and low-quality material is not worth buying.

Kinds

Today there are a large number various kinds lining. Classify it by material, cross section and classes. All these parameters are equally important, since they affect the appearance of the lining, its performance characteristics, as well as the ability to mount it inside or outside the house.

According to the material of manufacture

One of the fundamental classifications is the division according to the materials from which the lining is made. So, the material determines the appearance, scope of use and cost. It is worth noting that there is both a budget lining and an expensive one made of solid wood.

Based on financial capabilities, the style of the house and where the clapboard will be finished, and you need to choose its type.

plastic

Plastic lining belongs to the budget and is often used in the decoration of village or country houses in which they do not live permanently.

The material has many advantages:

• suitable for wall and ceiling decoration;
• it can be fixed so that there will be no seams;
• a wide range of colors;
• light weight.

To the advantages can be added a relatively low price.

Unfortunately, this species has many more disadvantages than advantages.

• fragility. PVC lining is easy to deform, bend and break. In this regard, it is recommended to use it only for interior decoration.
• Poor UV resistance. Being in direct sunlight, plastic lining quickly fades and turns yellow, which negatively affects its appearance.
• Does not tolerate cold well. In the cold, PVC lining is covered with cracks, into which dust is subsequently clogged.

If use plastic model only for interior decoration, all these shortcomings disappear.

metal

The material for lining this type is aluminum. The result is durable, lightweight and inexpensive specimens. The color of the aluminum lining can be any. Often a coating is applied to it that imitates wood.

Unfortunately, metal lining is easily damaged during transportation and installation: it easily bends and deforms, and it will not be possible to straighten it back. In addition, it cannot be scratched. aluminum profiles covered with a special composition that prevents corrosion. If it is damaged, then rust will not be slow to appear.

Typically, metal lining is used for facing works because inside the house it looks a little rough. In addition, it is not recommended to use it on the ceiling. During installation, it is necessary to strictly follow the technology so as not to damage the lamellas, otherwise the lamella will corrode over time, and it will have to be changed.

Wooden

This type is the most sought after and popular. This is not surprising, because the wooden lining looks status and impressive. In addition, it most of all helps to create a feeling of home comfort.

If we talk about the shortcomings of wooden lining, then there are only two of them.

• Exposure to climatic influences. Changes in temperature, pressure and humidity can cause the lining to deform and lose its attractive appearance.
• The need for care. To avoid damage to the lining, you need to monitor its cleanliness, the absence of cracks, and also take care to negate all negative climatic influences.

Wooden lining is made from wood of the following species:

• Linden;
• aspen;
• alder;
• ash;
• cedar;
• larch;
• pine;

By cross section

On this basis, several types of lining are also distinguished.

"Standard"

This type of lining is equipped standard system"thorn-groove". To prevent deformation in case of drying out of the tree, the spike is made slightly shorter than the groove. After all the installation work is completed, the lined lining lies end-to-end, and the surface is smooth. Keep in mind that there should be no gaps or gaps between the planks.

The advantages of this type include good heat and sound insulation properties. The presence of compensation gaps makes it possible to install it in rooms with high humidity, so lining of this type is often chosen for baths and saunas.

"Calm"

Other names for “calm” lining are Russian, simple, “collective farmer”. She is popular for her neat appearance. It cannot be said that the “calm” lining is very different from previous version. The difference is only in the beveled corners of the slats. So, if when laying the “standard” lining, a flat wall without gaps is obtained, then in the case of “calm” there are beautiful concave lines along the entire wall.

Good heat and sound insulation functions are retained here as well.. In addition, only high quality wood is taken for the production of this type of model, so it looks more attractive than the “standard” version.

Eurolining

This type differs from the rest in that it has the best ventilation properties. This is achieved through spikes and larger grooves. Such properties are important if eurolining is used for facade cladding. Therefore, the masters recommend choosing this particular option for facing work.

The possibilities of interior decoration with this sample are also unlimited: you can mount it on walls or ceilings. However, keep in mind that eurolining is one of the most expensive types among others, so it is recommended to use it only for the facade, and for interior work it is easier to choose an option.

"Softline"

The name of this model comes from the English "soft line", which characterizes its appearance. It has rounded edges that look noble and fit well into some interiors. She found her buyer precisely because of this feature.

As for performance, they are not much different from the qualities of other types. "Softline" provides good sound and heat insulation. It is suitable mainly for interior decoration, as it does not look so attractive as an exterior cladding. Good for finishing ceiling spaces.

"Landhouse"

Lining "landhouse" differs from all others in that it has a beautiful figured surface. In this case, the inner surface is flat. A wide variety of shaped surfaces are available. The photo below shows just a few of them.

"Landhouse" is used mainly for interior decoration, and they make not only wall cladding, but also the ceiling. By combining slats with different patterns, it is possible to achieve an interesting effect and create a unique atmosphere in the interior. Such solutions look especially unusual in baths and saunas, making them look like a steam room in a spa.

"Block house"

Lining "blockhouse" is one of the best solutions when it comes to façade decoration. In appearance, it is an imitation of a rounded log. "Blockhouse" is supplied not with individual lamellas, but with whole slabs.

There are options from plastic, metal and wood, while metal and wooden lining is almost always stylized as a tree. Unfortunately, one of the most important drawbacks of the "blockhouse" is poor cross-country ability. Simply put, the material does not "breathe". Therefore, it is necessary to make ventilation gaps.

If done incorrectly, water can seep under the lining and over time lead to mold or destruction of the walls of the house.

"American"

This type of lining exactly imitates siding panels, but made of natural wood. The panel has an unusual beveled shape, thanks to which the “American” fits as if overlapping.

In most cases, the “American” is sheathed with facades, placing it horizontally. So water flows from the walls - a kind of self-cleaning function is obtained. However, in the case of wooden lining, everything is not so rosy, because exposure to moisture is not very useful for it.

bilateral

This variety is named so because the slats do not have a wrong side - both sides are front. This is convenient because you don't have to worry about correct location slats. It is also always possible to choose a more beautiful side by placing a knotty pattern from the rear.

The disadvantage of this type is the installation limitation. So, double-sided lining cannot be placed in rooms with high humidity, because it does not have expansion gaps. Here, both the tenon and the groove are of the same length, so when the tree expands, it is irreversibly deformed.

By wood class

Class A

First class lining is great for wall and ceiling cladding in rooms. There are no falling knots on it, there are subtle non-through cracks and resin streaks. The slats are one color, they have a beautiful pattern.

In general, class A lining can also be used for facade works, but it is expensive, so this is not always justified, given how much material is required for outer cladding. Sometimes such a lining is used to place accents, highlighting one wall or part of it. This approach saves money, while the mounting technology does not change.

Class B

The class B lining looks less attractive than the first class examples. This is due to the fact that darkening and cracks occur twice as often. Captive knots and resin pockets are also possible, and therefore such a lining looks untidy.

Despite the fact that, in general, everything is not so bad, the lining of the second category is not recommended for finishing residential premises. However, it is perfect for technical rooms, such as a dressing room or veranda. Also, with its help, you can make a beautiful facade cladding. The cost of class B lining is on average 180 rubles per cubic meter.

Class C

This lining belongs to the worst class. On it you can find all the shortcomings that there are. These are falling knots, and resin pockets, and through cracks, and heterogeneity of color, and an unattractive woody pattern. Such lining is rarely used in construction, preferring better options.

Nevertheless, many will appreciate the low cost of this material, which partially atones for external shortcomings. In terms of service quality, this class is no worse than the others, it is inferior only in aesthetic terms. Clapboard of the third class can only be found in types such as "standard" and "spire".

Class "Extra"

This lining belongs to the premium class. There are no knots, resin pockets or cracks on the boards. All lamellas are even, the same color. This type best suited for decorating residential premises, as it looks respectable, expensive and neat. During operation, there are no problems either: the lining is varnished, so it is only necessary to wipe off the dust from it from time to time. Since such panels are the rarest, the price for them is much higher than for class A.

After reviewing the types of lining in more detail, you will know what difficulties you may encounter during installation, as well as which of the options and when it is better to use.

What rooms to use?

Clapboard trim is used everywhere, but most often it is chosen for the design of the following rooms and premises:

• bedroom;
• balcony;
• living room;
• terrace;
• veranda;
• bath;
• kitchen;
• attic

The lining also looks great on the facade, which can be seen in the following examples:

Fastener selection

It is important not only to choose the right lining, but also to decide how you will fix it. Several popular types of mounts should be considered.

Kleimers

Metal clamps (you can also find clamps) can be bought at any hardware store. Fixing with their help is considered the most difficult, but at the same time the most accurate. Nails or screws are completely hidden by the clapboard. Due to the fact that they are not visible, the lining does not look like a fence, but looks like a solid slab. From the side it seems that the lamellae are glued on.

It is important to choose the right nail size. It is necessary that his hat be slightly wider than the holes in the kleimer, but at the same time it should not stick out much, otherwise it will not work to fix the panels.

Staples

To fix the lining with brackets, you will need to use a special mounting gun. It takes skill to work with it, so first practice on an unnecessary plank. Few people succeed in correctly attaching the lining with brackets the first time.

screws

Decorative screws are often used by beginners, as they are easier to use than a mounting gun and clamps. They do not violate the overall visual concept, because they are not very striking. In general, this option is more preferable than fastening with screws, precisely because of the aesthetic appeal.

self-tapping screws

One of the easiest ways to fix the lining on the ceiling and on the walls. The nuance is that the screws must be screwed in diagonally so that they capture the spike in the groove. It is difficult to drown the hat in the future so that the surface of the lining is smooth.

In this method, nails are used along with self-tapping screws. Try first to fix both with the help of one and with the help of another, and then decide what is easier for you.

Material Quantity Calculation

For example, let's take small room, the lengths of the walls of which are 2 m and 3 m, and the height is 2.7 m.

• Wall areas. For this, we alternately multiply each of the lengths by the height: 2 * 2.7 \u003d 5.4 square meters. m. and 3 * 2.7 \u003d 8.1 square meters. m.
• Total area. To do this, you need to sum up the obtained values ​​\u200b\u200band multiply by 2 (after all, there are 4 walls in room): 8.1 + 5.4 \u003d 13.5 square meters. m.
• Area of ​​door and window openings. Suppose that the room has a window 1x1 m and a door 0.7x2 m. Then their area will be equal to 1 sq. m. and 1.4 sq. m., respectively.
• The area covered by the lining. This area without openings: 13.5-1-1.4 \u003d 11.1 square meters. m.
• Lamellar area. Dimensions fluctuate, but for example, let's take 96x2700 mm. We translate into meters - 0.096x2.7 m. The area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe lamella is 0.2592 square meters. m.
• The number of lamellas. Now the area covered by the clapboard is divided by the area of ​​the lamella: 11.1 / 0.2592 = 42.8. Rounding up, we get 43 lamellae. You should also lay down 10% for marriage.

Instruments

To attach the lining, you will need some tools.

All of the listed equipment, as a rule, is already available to the owner, and you won’t have to buy anything expensive.

• A laser level, which is needed to determine how evenly you fasten the lining. A mounting level or spirit level is also suitable. For vertical alignment, you need a plumb line.
• An electric jigsaw or hacksaw is designed for sawing the details of the crate and the lining itself.
• Depending on how you will fasten the lining, you will need a hammer (if fastening with nails or clamps), a screwdriver (when fastening with self-tapping screws), an electric stapler or a staple gun (if you plan to fasten with staples).
• Perforator and drill for holes in the base. Depending on what the walls are made of (stone or wood), choose the right tool.

Mounting methods

Lining can be fixed in two main ways: vertical and horizontal. Preparatory work for both methods will be almost identical.

Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the lining, if this was not done at the factory. Treat it with an antiseptic, cover it with paint or stain. Dry the material thoroughly.

Sheathing with clapboard is always carried out on a crate, which is made of slats, the fastening step between which is 50 cm.

In the world of metal, plastic and concrete, it is quite difficult to feel comfortable. It is prestigious to live in a house finished with technological materials, but the feeling of cold will haunt you.

The presence of wood in the interior will bring the missing warmth and create a natural microclimate. And if you decide to sheathe wooden slats walls, the issue of wall decoration and comfort is solved simultaneously.

Lumber is suitable for both indoor and facade decoration. But you should not make the entire wall of the same type, relying on the decorative features of the sheathing, because the fine texture of the boards in small spaces does not look interesting. It is welcome in the form of panels, and goes well with other textures, like plaster or wallpaper. The balcony looks worthy, where such a lining is especially appropriate.

The material of natural origin is made from well-known tree species that grow everywhere.

The ennobled type "Extra" - from coniferous species and aspen, is considered elite and is suitable for interior design.

Facing boards of grade A also belong to the highest class. B and C are in demand in outdoor use. In addition to eurolining, there are decorative types(block house).

Reiki differ in length, and are presented in 4 sizes: 2 100 mm with a subsequent increase in parameters by 30 mm - 2400 etc

In general, the range allows you to choose the material in relation to the possibilities and ideas about the practicality of the cladding.

In addition to eco-friendly lining, a polymer analogue is also produced. For a particular room, suitable slats of a certain type of wood are selected, and the priority depends on the purpose of the room. So, a bath is not trimmed with pine for the reason that it reacts to high degrees by releasing resin.

For bathrooms and kitchens, plastic panels are relevant - they are beautiful in appearance, but do not claim to be compared with the natural energy of wood.

Walls made of natural boards are:

• warmly
• good sound insulation
• the smell of the forest
• long service life

It is not difficult to make facing if you have patience and have at least approximate skills in working with tools.

At the stage of preparation, the boards are coated protective composition(basic "Pinotex"). For a shade, they are treated with stain or azure (for example, Belinka), but this is already on finishing stage.

After the process, they need to be dried well, and brought into the house a day before the start of work so that the tree does not dry out later.

Mounting with clamps, nails and staples

The lining is installed on the crate. To do this, you need to buy slats or cut them yourself from inch boards of the required length.

Finished sections should fit snugly against the wall with a fixation step of 50 cm. Initially, the frame of the structure is leveled using a level or plumb line.

The space between the battens will provide air circulation and long and high-quality operation. A heater is laid out over the entire area, and waterproofing is applied to it. Both layers not only retain heat, but make the walls soundproof. In our case, the lining is attached to the crate, which necessarily processed antiseptic primer.

The choice of mounting is up to you. In fact, there are several of them, and you will determine for yourself how it will be convenient to insert the spike into the recess of the board.

Fastening happens:

• secret
• outdoor

performed:

• staples
• screws
• nails
• kleimers

What will we mount?

Regarding fixation, it should be noted that you should be careful in your actions, otherwise you can split the bar. For the version with nails, use a doboynik - this will help to completely drown the hat in the canvas, but try not to damage the groove.

If you have decided on this moment, it's time to go directly to the process. Even before the construction of the crate began, it was necessary to determine the vector direction of the sheathing, and now it only follows align the guides.

If you want to lay the lining horizontally - create a visual impression wide room. With the vertical aspiration of the planks, the ceiling will rise, but the space will narrow. Your preference.

Horizontal version

The principle of slats arrangement starts from the ceiling with advancement to the floor with the same direction of the grooves. This will exclude the ingress of debris and small fragments from the outside, as well as the possibility of moisture penetration.

A note on working with a block house clapboard that looks similar to rounded log.

• The groove should be directed upwards and the side of the board, according to the idea, is obliged to hide the border of the connection. In principle, there should be no gaps, and in order to avoid them, the strips are adjusted with a hammer or a piece of rail.
• The details are connected to the crate with nails with small hats, which are successfully hidden under the next element.

It remains to tidy up the corner. To decorate it, a beam is inserted between the planks, masking the longitudinal gap, and also protecting it from drafts. The cladding is ready.

The layout of the lining with aspiration upwards starts from the corner. It's simple: clamps are inserted into the first facing part and nailed to the crate. The hats will then hide the inserted corner or it is permissible to bite them off with side cutters

Further actions completely duplicate the above principle, and an even canvas forms an impeccably designed wall.

At the finishing stage, beautiful slats, skirting boards and corners are nailed.

We mount the lining on aerated concrete walls

Consider the option of facing directly to the surface without a wooden structure.

1. From the collection of material, we select the strips with a defect for the guides, pre-treated with a protective compound.
2. We take a drill for concrete in 6 mm and make holes.
3. We set the first bar according to the level in both planes.
4. Insert the dowel into the finished hole NAT 6.
5. We screw the screws into the grooves of the slats and insert them into the nylon dowel.
6. We control the exact location of the guides. For correction, we insert fragments from hard linings.

For fasteners, we will prepare clamps, and we will fix each 3rd carnations. The way to work with them is as follows:

• A fastener element is inserted into the groove and nailed into the open holes. In the process, we use an extension cord - an inverted nail with a tip sticking forward. This technique will eliminate the deformation of the wooden edges;
• Having drowned 2 nail, turn the clamp according to the vector directed to the skin. We track the vertical of the bar;
• Left to score 3rd nail in the center. We nail the finishing detail with a thin nail along the edge, and the imperfection of the fasteners will hide the decorative plinth;

Before you is a solid surface where you need to cut out a place for an outlet.

Since it was provided in advance, you took care of the cable and only covered it with cardboard for the duration of the work.

At the time of facing, its location was marked on the boards in the neighborhood. Therefore, to bring the system outside will not be much effort. Now we cut the opening with a wood cutter. We mount a box for a tree in a gaping space, and now only electrical work remains.

Decorative moments of toning are left to the last stage. Actual translucent glaze, creating a protective barrier, with a translucent structural surface.

Everything is learned in practice, and the experience gained and self-confidence will move you to other achievements in home improvement. Go ahead and let your design be unique!

Wooden lining is beautiful and environmentally friendly. Similarly, ceilings and walls are trimmed in baths, saunas, country houses and city apartments. U, and one of the most significant is the ease of installation, if, of course, high-quality materials were used, so you should find in advance a responsible supplier of fasteners for lining and, of course, the lining itself. Today, clamps, nails and even staples are used to fasten the material. What type of fasteners for lining will be most appropriate in each case?

No. 1. Features of installing lining

Lining is recommended to be mounted on previously installed frame . If the walls or ceiling have a perfectly flat surface, it is allowed to install the lining without building a frame, but the crate still helps to extend the life of the base surface and allows you to create an additional layer for laying in the space between the lining and the main surface.

The crate is fastened in increments of 50-60 cm, it is imperative to use a level to achieve a perfectly flat surface and compensate for the unevenness of the base ceiling or wall. The frame may be metal profile or timber. When it comes to wooden lining, it is better to stop the choice on a beam. It's all about the ability of wood to absorb and release moisture, changing in volume. Lining and timber will react in a similar way, but the metal does not change in volume, and with a rigid fixation of the profile to the surface, the lining can lead. Of course, this risk remains when using wooden frame, but still to a lesser extent.

Between the bars of the crate, you can lay heat-insulating material, which is important not only for residential buildings, but especially for saunas.

You can mount the lining in one of the following ways:

The direction of the battens will be perpendicular to the direction of the lining, this goes without saying.

No. 2. Types of fasteners for lining

Traditional ways execute lining fasteners several:

Regardless of which type of fastening is chosen, it is recommended to mount the first and last board using nails with small heads - they are easy to drown in the lining body. They fasten the lining first to the middle bar, then to the two extreme ones, carefully controlling the verticality or horizontality. Then there is an attachment to the intermediate bars.

No. 3. Fastening lining with clamps

Kleimers allow you to install the lining, completely preserving its integrity. They represent metal plates with tongue and holes. The tongue is designed to hold the lining, and thanks to the holes, the kleimer is attached to the frame. Such simple, but at the same time ingenious, fasteners allow you to perform a hidden fixation of the lining - no fasteners will be visible from the outside. At the same time, the wood is protected from cracks that can appear when nails are driven into it, and the entire installation process is quite simple.

The main difference between all kleimers on the market is tongue height. The choice of this parameter depends on what type of lining will be mounted: for euro lining, the necessary brackets with a tongue 4 mm high, for block house lining - 6 mm. As for the material, the kleimers are made mainly of galvanized iron and steel. Consumption This fastener depends on many factors, but on average, about 20 kleimers are used per 1 m 2 of lining.

The sequence of work is as follows:

It is necessary to install the boards tightly to each other, leaving no visible gaps. The last board will likely need to be cut to fit the width. In baths and saunas, it is recommended to retreat 2-3 cm from the ceiling and floor so that the wood can easily expand.

Kleimers provide a detachable fastening, so in which case the lining can be easily dismantled and the coating can be assembled in a new place.

No. 4. Fastening lining with nails

With the help of fastening the lining is the easiest and fastest way, because there is no need to use any intermediate fasteners, but there is a risk of splitting the board, so you should be prepared for a certain amount of marriage. For fastening, nails 5-6 cm long are used, they are in increments of 25-30 cm, so a lot of fastening material will be needed.

Usually nails driven into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees. To reduce the likelihood of damage to the lining, the nail is carefully placed in the right place with a hammer, and then hammered with a blunt hammer. An alternative is to pre-drill the holes. During installation, the nail head must be properly sunk into the tree so that the next lining element can be freely inserted into the groove.

It is allowed to drive a nail at a right angle into the tongue.

No. 5. Fastening the lining with a stapler

This is a variation on the theme of the previous method: instead of studs and a finisher, a construction stapler is used here, which has enough power to drive the bracket into the lining. This device greatly facilitates the work, but requires some skill, so it's better to practice first. If everything is done correctly, then the bracket will fit tightly into the wood without interfering with the installation. next element lining. The stapler can also be used when fastening with clamps.

No. 6. Through fastening of lining with self-tapping screws

Through fastening is usually used for mounting the last lining boards. In this way, lining is also fastened in steam rooms and saunas. In this case, the fastener does not enter the spike, but passes through the entire lining. This is a fairly reliable and durable installation method, but if we are talking about using it in a bath, then the wood must be covered and do not forget to renew it every three months.

Holes are made in the boards first, and then fasteners are screwed in with the help, which should go as deep as possible. To cover the resulting hole, wooden pins are used, however, over time, all attachment points can become noticeable, no matter how carefully and regularly protective agents are applied.

This method has one interesting variation. Some experts drive nails into the crate, but not to the full length, so that they can be planted on them in the future. The length of the protruding elements should be less than the thickness of the lining. Nail heads are bitten off, and lining panels are carefully stuffed onto protruding nails with a mallet. The result is an aesthetic surface.

Over the years of working with lining, experts have accumulated decent experience and are ready to share advice:

The process of fastening the lining cannot be called too difficult, but it still requires accuracy, attentiveness and certain skills, so if you are not completely confident in your abilities, it is better to immediately call professionals for help and not spoil the material.