At what angle to install the bath. How to install a bathtub without outsourcing

Step 1. We print the purchased bathtub and the factory frame and lay it out on a clean floor, having previously laid a soft cloth or cardboard. In the set of fasteners, you will find short and long metal profiles, self-tapping screws, legs and pads for them (thrust bearings), dowels, pins, washers, nuts, racks. Depending on the configuration, the number of parts may be different, for example, there are more metal profiles in the reinforced frame, or the bathtub is supplied immediately with an all-welded frame.

Usually, holes have already been drilled in the fittings and dowels are inserted. This eliminates the need to make markings and drill holes yourself.

Acrylic bathtubs for the most part are installed not only on the frame, but are also fixed along the line of abutment to the walls with metal hooks-suspensions.

If the kit does not include drain fittings, it must be purchased, taking into account the height of the legs and comparing it with the dimensions of the siphon.

For work, you will definitely need screwdrivers, wrenches and pliers. Also, don't forget the silicone-based sealant, bubble level, tape measure, and pencil.

Step 2. We start by assembling the frame and legs. We turn the bath over without removing the protective film from the inner surface. We provide easy access to either side of the bowl.

Using long self-tapping screws, we connect the profiles. We rely on the instructions attached to the acrylic bath and the correspondence of the holes in the longitudinal reinforcement with the dowels installed in the transverse strips.

Place the assembled frame exactly in the center of the bath bottom.

Step 3. We proceed to the installation of the legs. We will install three pieces on the front edge of the bath, two - under the bottom of the bowl and two more at the edge, which will adjoin the wall.

We begin to fasten the racks with the profile and the side of the bath. We install the stand on the side, screw the first long hairpin into it, and a nut onto the hairpin. The resulting stud with the rack is inserted into the hole of the longitudinal metal profile. We fix the stud with a nut and a lock nut. We fasten the plastic support-bearing on top.

Similarly, we collect the remaining support legs. We adjust the height of the legs depending on the dimensions of the decorative screen. The approximate height from the floor to the edge of the side board should be 60 cm.

For the legs located under the bottom of the bathtub, there are short hairpins. We insert them into the holes of the transverse profiles, fasten them with nuts and screw on the plastic supports.

Step 4. Check the assembled frame with a bubble level.

If necessary, tighten the studs with a wrench, aligning the position.

We take short self-tapping screws and fasten the racks with the sides of the bath.

Step 5. Turn the bath over. We take the level and once again double-check the horizontality of the sides. There is no need to make slopes for better water flow.

Step 6. Now you can connect a siphon with an overflow, relying on the manufacturer's instructions. The general principle for connecting revision siphons (strapping) of the knee type is as follows:

Note! Before the stage of the final installation of the bath and the screen, you can insulate the bottom of the bowl with foam, applying it in a thin stream to the sides, the bottom and partially capturing the fasteners in order to further fix them.

Step 7. When the siphon is assembled and the bath is level, it remains to make markings on the walls, drill holes and fix brackets or hooks on the wall that will hold the bath. We put the edge of the bath on these hooks, and insert the free end of the thick corrugation of the siphon into the sewer hole. After docking, apply a strip of silicone sealant to the place where the bath adjoins to the wall and attach the plinth or protective strip.

Note! To check the quality of the installation of the siphon and the correct installation of the structure, you should take a full bath of cold water and wait a few hours. If no leaks or distortions are found, you can drain the water, install a decorative screen and use the bathroom. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble and assemble all products in order to eliminate defects.

Step 8. Install the decorative screen. Clips are included. First, the upper fasteners are screwed on, after which the opposite ones are the lower ones. The decorative panel simply snaps onto them.

Attach the squeeze plates to the embedded elements, setting a distance of 2 mm between the side of the bath and the edge of the squeezing plate

You can also make a frame for a decorative panel from wooden bars or metal profiles.

Installing the bathtub on bricks

No factory frame? No problem! We can install acrylic bathtub on bricks. This option is even more reliable compared to the method of installing the bath on a factory-made frame.

The support can be solid or columnar.

Installing the bathtub on a solid brick substrate

First step. We temporarily install the bathtub in the place of its future installation and project the drain hole onto the base. This will give us the opportunity to leave a gap in the substrate for connection.

Second step. We spread the bricks on the area of the entire supporting part of the container. We select the height so that the sides of the bathtub rise above the floor by no more than 600 mm. At the same time, we take into account that we will still have a 2-3 cm pillow made of polyurethane foam.

We lay the bricks on traditional cement mortar.

Third step. We assemble a plywood frame around the perimeter of the brickwork. The height of such sheets should exceed the masonry by the thickness of the foam backing. Do not forget to leave the drain hole empty.

Fourth step. Foam the surface of the substrate evenly with polyurethane foam, without going beyond the frame. Immediately apply pre-prepared sheet plywood onto the foam. We use moisture resistant sheets 10 mm thick.

Fifth step. We seal the drain of the acrylic bathtub tightly. At the same stage, we prepare about a liter of water and wooden supports to adjust the level of the container installation.

Sixth step. Pour the previously prepared water into the container and put the bath on a substrate at the building level.

Seventh step. Until the polyurethane foam hardens, adjust the evenness of the bath installation using the props. As a result, the water in the tank should be evenly distributed around the drain, and the level should show "0".

Eighth step. Putting the bath on a level, pour water into it about half the volume. Under the weight of the water, the foam will not be able to raise the container, and the bath itself will take the required slope.

Ninth step. Let the foam dry and remove the bath. If the edges of the container are to be recessed into the wall, we first outline the contour of the edge on the surface, and then make a recess in the wall for the edge of the bathtub. A puncher will help us with this. If the arrangement of the groove is not provided (this is not recommended if the walls are made of blocks, drywall or other light material), at the level of the lower cut, we simply fix the impregnated timber, or a steel corner. We will additionally reinforce the support bar at the end with stops.

Tenth step. We return our container to its place and connect it to the sewer. Blow out the cracks between the container and the bricks with foam. Installing a decorative screen and skirting boards.

An example of a bathtub installed on bricks with mosaics

First step. We bring the container into the bathroom.

Second step. We mark the base at the place where the brick supports are installed. The most correct option is to erect pillars closer to the edges of the bend of the acrylic bathtub. If the container is long, an additional support can be erected in the middle.

Third step. Having outlined the places for laying the supports, we proceed to the preparation of the cement mortar. We don't cook too much - we have to lay out no more than 20 bricks, so we don't need extra expenses.

Fourth step. Let's start laying. We spread the support for the back of the bath to a height of 190 mm, and erect the pillar for the front edge of the tank by 170 mm. The height of the middle support, if necessary, is selected according to the situation, depending on the design of the bath being installed. The difference in the height of the pillars will provide conditions for an effective drainage of water from the tank.

Important note! Many modern acrylic bathtubs initially have a sloped bottom to allow water drainage. If you have such a bath, we set all the supports in level, focusing on the upper part.

Fifth step. We give the masonry about a day to dry and install the bath. We set the container slowly, pushing it tightly against the walls. Fill the gaps between the bricks and the bathroom with sealant.

If desired, you can additionally fix the bathtub to the wall using dowels and a metal profile. Such a mount is rarely used, but it still occurs.

After making sure of the correctness, stability and evenness of the bathtub installation, we connect the sewage system, install, mount the decorative screen and lay the plinth on the bathtub.

Video - Installation of an acrylic bathtub with a combined method

Video - How to install an acrylic bathtub yourself

Video - We put an acrylic bath with our own hands

In arranging his home, each person wants to create in the interior of his living space unique comfort, beauty and coziness. The arrangement of the dwelling assumes with special attention and care to treat each stage of the bathroom design, the sewerage and water supply systems installed in it, the work of which must be absolutely serviceable, carrying out exactly those functions on which all hopes are pinned. Otherwise, damage to property will occur. Therefore, you should carefully follow all the requirements, the installation rules described in the instructions, especially if the repair of the room is done by hand. This article describes in detail how to properly install a bathtub in the bathroom yourself and without the help of professionals.

The bathtub is the center of the bathroom and the size, shape and color of the bathroom affects not only mood but also performance. Today the market is replete with a wealth of plumbing equipment, which can be roughly divided into three types: cast iron, steel and acrylic. You are probably thinking, but what about hydromassage? That's right, they also have a place to be, but they belong to the class of "elites", so the installation of such baths is most often entrusted to specialists.

One of the most popular models on the plumbing market is steel and acrylic bathtubs. They are characterized by lightness, hygiene, durability, reasonable price, they can be easily installed even alone. Cast-iron structures are very heavy, but they are distinguished by their durability, strength and installation is carried out exclusively with an assistant.

Before you install a bathtub in a specific place, you need to think carefully about everything. First of all, you should decide what size the bathtub should be, material, color, and then buy it. It is important that it does not block access to other plumbing in the bathroom, while maintaining absolute functionality and comfort.

After buying a new bathtub, you should get rid of the old one. Cast iron drain is usually cut out, plastic can be broken. Further, the legs break, knock out from under the bath, tilt it on its side and take it out. After that, the sewer socket should be cleaned, into which the corrugation should then be inserted and covered with sealant in the joints to completely seal the corrugation.

For a cast iron bath, it would be ideal to use a cast iron collar installed inside the drain hole.

How to install a cast-iron bath on the legs

Installing a bathtub on legs in a bathroom is quite easy. Modern bathtubs are usually equipped with a support with an adjustment mechanism. Such knives can be mounted on a concrete screed or on the floor, if the bath screen is not intended. At the same time, it is important to understand that the installed structure will not stagger to the sides, tilt, well, but it should be placed strictly horizontally - in level.

If you decide to change the location of the bath, this will require additional measurements, purchase hoses, pipes, so that the installation of the bathroom is carried out as correctly as possible and without subsequent unpleasant surprises.

Important! Do not gently remove the bath protector during work to avoid damaging the smooth surface.

Installing a steel / acrylic bathtub

Installing a steel bathtub with your own hands or an acrylic bathtub is carried out in an identical way. The work is absolutely simple and even a beginner can do it. The three sides of the bath should be supported against the walls for better fixation. Well, the installation of the bath under the tiles, of course, is carried out before the laying of the tiles itself, moreover, it is best to leave a distance of up to 5 mm between the bathroom and the walls.

To attach the supports to the bathtub, it must be turned upside down. Some are attached closer to the drain, others to the opposite side. At the points of attachment of the supports, everything is pre-degreased, after which the protective films are removed from the overhead elements in order to press them more firmly to the surface. For bolt posts, install engraving washers before tightening the bolt nuts.

If the supports were installed on the bathtub in the corridor, then it is most convenient to bring the structure into the opening sideways. The bathtub is installed in the space provided for it, moving it close to the walls. The level should be set to horizontal, but the structure itself, after installation on the legs, must be carefully checked so that it does not stagger.

After that, the siphon is connected to the bathroom and the sewer, treating all joints and cracks with a sealant to avoid leaks. When all the fastening and connecting work has been carried out, you can safely proceed to the tiling.

Installing a steel bath in the bathroom

Important! After the tiles are laid on the walls, it is necessary to check the legs again, tightening them all the way.

Sometimes it can be a problem that the sewer hole is located high enough. Sometimes in some houses, both old and new, the sewage system can be installed illiterately. Therefore, installing a bathroom with your own hands involves additional elevation. For example, if you have a steel or cast iron bathtub, you can place it on blocks of wood or even bricks. Some threaded rods are exchanged for elongated elements. The latter can be purchased at building stores or markets.

Installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks

The acrylic construction is light enough to stand on its legs without any problems.

Important! After 10 years, the legs may deteriorate somewhat: rust, bend, as a result of which the slope necessary for the bath may be lost and the water will not completely go into the sewer. The bathtub itself may also crack because of the legs, therefore, it would be better to install the bathtub with your own hands on bricks.

You will need:

20 pcs. red bricks;
cement mortar;
metal profile;
hammer and trowel;
tape sealant, silicone and level;
container for solution;
grinder, screws and hammer drill.

The bottom of acrylic bathtubs can be either round or rectangular, triangular or beveled. Therefore, the form of laying out bricks must correspond to it.

Important! The height of the bathtub should not be more than 60 cm from the floor.

When installing an acrylic bathtub on bricks, the structure should be easily tilted forward so that the water can easily flow into the sewer. For example, the height of the back rack of the bathtub will be 19 cm, and the front - 17 cm, between the racks there will be a distance of 50-60 cm.

How to install a bathtub on legs and bricks

on bricks;
on legs and bricks (combined installation).

Combined installation involves screwing the legs first and only then paving the intended space with bricks. To do this, it is necessary to perform the markup, along which the brickwork is then made.

Important! Never mount the bathtub on wet cement screed. She needs to be given a day or more to dry out.

On top of the dried masonry, an assembly foam is applied. After that, the bath is installed. The correctness of the installation of the structure is checked using a level.

For better shrinkage, water is poured into the bathtub on the polyurethane foam. The joints between the walls and the product are sealed using tape sealant or silicone.

You can also implement a solid brick base.

Installing a cast iron bath

The cast iron bathtub is a high-quality, heavy model that retains heat for a long time. Before you install the bathtub with your own hands on bricks, you need to bring it into the room in height, turning it on its side and laying it in place of destination with the bottom against the wall so that the outlet is in a certain direction.

The installation of a metal bath involves fixing the supports with a tie bolt. The wedges are attached by tapping from the center to the edges until they are firmly in place. Each support must be equipped with an adjustment screw and nut.

We install the cast-iron bath on the legs

After that, the bath is turned upside down to install side supports. Use the level and adjustment screw to avoid any kind of tilt when setting the horizon. Smooth legs should be fixed using polymer glue in the work so that they do not slip on the surface, or, alternatively, put plastic plugs on them.

After installing the bath on the legs, the water supply is connected, waterproofing all gaps, cracks and butt joints. At the end, a faucet with a shower is installed.

Installing a cast iron bath on bricks

As already mentioned above, a cast-iron bath is quite heavy and it is not possible to cope with it alone. Therefore, experts suggest using a combined installation option: on legs and bricks.

After installing the bath on its side, it is better to immediately connect the siphon.

Important! The siphon for cast iron baths must be purchased at once of a high quality. Otherwise, replacing it will be extremely difficult.

As for the dimensions of the racks, they are indicated above. A cast-iron bath can also be supported on racks, vertical posts installed along the perimeter of the structure. Mounting on supports assumes that the height of the outer edge will be 0.5-1 cm higher than the edge in contact with the wall. This should be done to avoid spilling water onto the floor.

How to install a bathtub on bricks

We will not talk about how to install a steel bath on bricks, since the process is identical to that described above. In view of the fact that steel structures have a tendency to bend, it is, of course, better to make support along the entire bottom.

There is another method for installing the product: this is when several welded pipes are laid on the supports. Such baths need grounding. If the wiring suddenly fails, grounding can be life-saving.

Finishing

As for the decor, this process is carried out at the end of all work with the bathroom, when it is already fully installed and fixed. Bathtub cladding can be carried out using tiles, drywall, a special protective plastic screen, depending on your desire and capabilities. But, when sewing a bath, a window should be provided for changing the siphon or cleaning it. If you close the screen tightly, you will not be able to eliminate the leak, or you will have to break everything.

The question of how to install a bathtub with your own hands is not as difficult to solve as it might seem at first glance. It's all about the possession of information that many masters hide - ignorance of the intricacies is precisely the very stumbling block that makes most people refuse to install this plumbing fixture on their own and turn to the help of professionals. In this article, together with the website, we will tell you about the correct sequence for installing the bath and the subtleties that are inherent in installing the bath, depending on the material from which it is made.

Do-it-yourself bath installation photo

How to install a bathtub with your own hands: the sequence of work

To understand the general principle of installation for all types of baths, first consider the sequence of work, which remains unchanged both for cast iron and even acrylic. The subtleties of the work concerning each separately taken type of baths, we will leave at last.

Assembly and installation of a drain siphon. I will not get into the intricacies of installing a siphon for bathtubs, I will only say one thing - as a rule, all products of this type are assembled using union nuts using rubber seals. There is no need to perform any additional sealing of the joints - this will at least lead to product breakdown. The siphon assembly diagram is usually supplied by the manufacturers of these products.
Installation of supports on the bathtub. Here, too, not everything is unambiguous - there are a lot of support element structures for a lot. There are both complex and simple ones - some craftsmen refuse factory legs altogether and prefer the so-called ones. In some respects, they are right - for example, steel baths are best installed in this way. We will talk a little further about how to install a bathtub on bricks.
How to install a bathtub with your own hands photo
Thermal insulation and soundproofing of the bath. This step in the execution of work applies only to steel and acrylic baths - cast iron products are already warm enough and do not make excessive noise during the filling process. Sound and heat insulation of the bath is carried out using mounting foam, which is applied to the bottom and sides of such products. Depending on the size of the bath, you may need from 4 to 5 large cans of polyurethane foam.
Positioning the bath relative to the horizon. A bath prepared and installed in the required place must be exposed to the horizon. It is not necessary to lay any slopes during its installation - this nuance is taken into account by the manufacturer and is incorporated into the design of the bath. The positioning of the bath is carried out using, the device of which provides for these purposes with adjusting screws. By unscrewing and twisting them, you can easily achieve the desired position of the bath. First, the long side of the bath is set relative to the horizon level, and then the short side. The progress of this process is controlled by the rack level.
Do-it-yourself steel bath installation photo
Bath fixing. This nuance applies exclusively to a steel or acrylic bathtub - such a step does not provide, since its weight is quite enough so as not to bend and not shift under the mass of water and a person. The exposed acrylic and steel bathtubs are attached to the walls using metal hooks, which are often used to mount hot water tanks or special brackets supplied by the manufacturer with the bathtub. Such fastening is necessary in order to exclude depressurization of the connection between the wall and the bathroom itself during operation.
Sealing. This is the final stage in solving the question of how to install the bath correctly? It can be solved in several ways. In one situation, it will be advisable to use a special white corner, in another - a self-adhesive border tape, but in a third, even a tile can be used. In some situations, when there is practically no gap between the wall and the bathroom (this happens when the bath is installed even before), one cylinder of white sanitary silicone will be enough to seal it.
How to install a bathtub to the wall photo

This is how the solution to the question of how to install the bathtub to the wall looks like? It remains only to study the subtleties regarding the installation of the bath, depending on the material from which it is made. What we will do next.

Subtleties of installing a steel bath: two important points

In addition to the above, you can add only two points - this is the height of the installation of the bathroom and the manufacture of a brick pillow. Let's start in order.

You can watch the nuances of installing a steel bath in the video below.

Features of installing an acrylic bathtub: four decisive factors

This plumbing product has a little more installation subtleties. In general, acrylic is a rather capricious material. In the process of solving the question of how to properly install an acrylic bathtub, you need to take into account the following nuances.

The nuances of installing a cast iron bath: what you need to know during installation

There are practically no nuances of installing this product. Rather, they are, but they are all described above. This bath does not need to be fastened to the walls. All that is needed is to put it in place, move it as tightly as possible to the wall and adjust it to the level. Adjustment is carried out using steel foot pads. And in general, cast-iron baths are used extremely rarely in modern repairs - they are expensive and do not differ in a variety of forms. The only obstacle to the installation of a cast iron product for a bath is its significant weight. If you are going to install such a bathtub, then enlist the help of an assistant.

Well, in conclusion of the question, how to install a bathtub with your own hands, I want to say a few words about corner structures. You don't need to be afraid of them - they are mounted in almost the same way as ordinary rectangular bathtubs. The only exception is their shape and, as a result, the technology of attachment to the walls. Corner bathtubs are fastened to the walls in three places - at two points along the long side and one on the short side.

Have you started a major overhaul of your apartment? Then the bathroom will require special attention. In addition, the choice of plumbing solutions today is as diverse as possible - acrylic baths, cast iron, metal. And everywhere there is a wide selection of all kinds of shapes, colors, sizes. The installation of your bathtub can be done in different ways. It depends on the material and on other characteristics such as shape, size, installation location. In order for the correct installation of the bathtub to be performed with high quality, special knowledge and special professional skills are required. Therefore, you will be absolutely right if you contact a specialist in this field.

Nevertheless, some aspects will not hurt to find out for yourself in advance.

What you need to know at the preparatory stage

Bathroom renovation begins with the main questions: "what to put", "where to put" and "how to put". First of all, you need to decide how to put the bath, establish and regulate the water supply and sewerage. And also, align horizontal and vertical surfaces. Experts recommend covering the walls and floor with tiles. How to install a bathtub in an apartment? The easiest way to work is when a new bathtub is installed in place of the previous design. But if you started a global rearrangement of plumbing devices in the bathroom, then you need to correctly arrange all the water inlets and outlets and calculate the installation options. Most likely, you cannot do without a plumber.

How to install the bathtub correctly? It is advisable to place it at an angle, depending on the place of discharge. This will ensure complete drainage of the water. Any plumber will explain to you that, otherwise, water (albeit in small quantities) stagnates, and this leads to the appearance of all the hated "yellow spots".

How to properly position the bath, depending on the shape? For corner and rectangular models - your preferences. But the main thing is that the assembled structure should not interfere with the approach to important communications and valves.

Installations of different types of baths

Let's consider the most popular options for installing a bath. The easiest way is to install a cast-iron bath. This bath is very heat-resistant, the water in it stays warm longer. In addition, it has excellent sound insulation characteristics. And, of course, very hard. But this is even a plus, since due to its severity, the bath does not require additional experiments with the installation. With the help of a specialist, select the right size bath - and off you go. As for the size, the main thing is not to miscalculate, otherwise you will have to adjust the walls or reduce the sides of the bath.

The steel bath has thinner walls. By the way, this is why when water is pouring, we hear a loud sound. The lack of such a bath will immediately be felt by a person whose dimensions cannot be called miniature. The fact is that under the weight of a heavy host or a large amount of water, the metal itself will most likely begin to bend and can damage the enamel.

This is why proper bathroom installation is important. To prevent deflections from happening, the installation of the bath and the decoration are accompanied by the installation of an additional foundation. Alternatively, bricks are placed under the bottom and the free space is filled with polyurethane foam. Less often, but still use, the technique with sand: the bath itself is inserted into a container filled with sand. In such cases, bending of the metal can be avoided.

For your information: The walls of acrylic bathtubs do not withstand heavy loads. Professionals recommend placing it on a metal base. Or reinforce the stability with polyurethane foam. In addition, additional connections to the wall are also required.

It is better to install the bathroom as tightly as possible to the wall. Where the wall meets the edges of the tub, a good quality waterproofing is needed. Professionals advise using a special tape, all kinds of putties and baseboards (better, of course, ceramic, not plastic).

As we can see, the methods of installing the bath can be different. And everywhere there are professional nuances.

The installation of a bathtub in a bathroom is usually carried out by a specialist. Or at least in his presence. It will be difficult to do this on your own. Only a representative of a company with the appropriate profile will be able to give you a guarantee of a quality installation. Or recommendations on how to properly install the bathroom.

Basic installation rules

Like any other professional, the plumber knows by heart the control rules for installing the bathtub and the installation requirements. Let's take a look at some of them:

According to SNiP standards (building codes and regulations), the surface on which the bathroom structure is installed must be perfectly flat. It is recommended to pre-lay the floor with tiles;
In order to protect the bath from damage as much as possible, its installation takes place last, that is, when the rest of the repair work has already been completed;
Not only the place for installing the bathtub is selected in advance, but also the height of the structure. It should be taken into account whether the tiles will be laid under the bathtub and what kind, the font will stand on the floor or on a special podium, etc.;
Every professional will tell you that the included installation parts are not always ideal for a particular design. For example, you bought a bathtub made of thin steel. After some time, the enamel near the legs is likely to crack. Here you should know about alternative fastening options - special corners with a lining.
Designer models are usually equipped with attractive legs. Therefore, the task of how to install your new bathtub is much easier to solve. Here it is enough to buy the bath itself, put it on a flat floor and connect it to the sewer system;
Otherwise, you may need to build a brick "foundation".

Even these examples are enough to entrust the installation of the bath to a qualified installer. You can make not just a base for a bath, but complete its lining.

Work order

Briefly answering the question "how to install a new bath", in response you will hear a list of actions. So, the order of installing the bath looks like this:

floor preparation;
calculation of dimensions and alignment of the bath relative to the height;
installation of a siphon, its connection to the sewer;
installation of the structure;
tightness check;

But this is clearly not enough for a complete understanding of how to properly install a bathroom. That is why we do not recommend experimenting with such painstaking work. Moreover, if you have no practical experience in the repair of bathrooms.

When buying a bathtub, be sure to check the availability of documents such as installation instructions and quality certificate. Manufacturing documents, for example, indicate what the slope of the bath should be.

So what exactly do we need for a quality bath installation? Mandatory assembly kit: screwdrivers and gas wrenches, hacksaw, chisel and hammer, pliers, hammer drill. And also insulating tape, polyurethane foam, sealant, cement, corrugation drain and funnels.

Features of installing a steel bath

The lightweight model, in contrast to the cast iron bathtub, requires a solid installation. How to put a bathtub? Necessarily her adherence to the walls. Otherwise, the bath will not be as stable as possible. Installing a bathtub on a tile is inappropriate here. The bath is placed even before the tiling and is regulated by additional supports. Self-adhesive pads are the best option. If bolts are used, the enamel may be damaged.

The preparatory stage is not much different from installing a cast iron bath. Just before installing the bathroom, do not install the tiles. The installation of pipes relative to the mixing system is not carried out outside, but in the wall;
It is no secret that the question of how to assemble a bath begins with the construction of a support. Assembling the bathtub requires laying the plumbing upside down. The first support is made near the drain hole, the second is closer to the opposite edge. The main thing is to fix it on a flat surface. Aligning the channel with a hammer will maximize the support to the bath. Alcohol treatment is carried out where the bath will come into contact with the linings (acetone can be used). Before removing the protective film from the pads, warm them up with a hairdryer;

Important: The bath should be brought into the room vertically, holding it by the sides (do not take it by the legs!).

As soon as the bath is in the prepared place, the height adjustment is carried out. How to align the bathtub? Wedges are driven between the sides of the plumbing and the walls (they will be removed a little later). All gaps are filled with polyurethane foam. If suddenly you get dirty with foam, you should clean it immediately, since then it will be impossible to do this. After the foam filling, the wedges are pulled out;
We do the tile pasting close to the bathtub. Cover the plumbing with foil so as not to get dirty or scratched. The joint between the bathroom and the tile is treated with a waterproof structure grout or silicone. The fact is that the polyurethane foam allows water to pass through.

Follow the installation sequence of the bath indicated in the documents.

Features of mounting a bathroom made of acrylic

In fact, the bath installation technology does not differ much from the one discussed above. Only the supports do not cling to bolts, but screws. The space between the screws and the bottom is filled with polyurethane foam. If suddenly the device does not have production grooves for supports, use a drill. It is very important not to pierce the tub through.

A particularly popular solution is the installation of a corner bath. Such plumbing is usually sold complete with a plastic screen, which is mounted after the completion of the main installation work. A screen is installed with a gap of about 2-3 mm.

There is a special video tutorial on this topic on our website. As well as a bath installation diagram.

Bathroom cladding tiles

Installing a bathtub under the tiles is the optimal solution to the question of how to make the bathtub stable. Such material is considered to be more hygienic and practical. For tiling the bath itself, you cannot do without installing a screen. Moreover, you can enclose absolutely any bathtub with tiles. Such a cladding will be very harmonious in the bathroom interior. And, most importantly, it has maximum resistance to the kind of special connection with the floor. The screen under the tiles can be erected from brick or cement.

How to put a bathtub on a tile

Let's say you already have good floor tiles in your bathroom. How to install a bathtub on a tile? To place the bathroom on a sliding base, you will need to secure the base with waterproof polymer glue. In order not to scratch the tile, experts recommend dressing the legs of the bathtub with plastic tips.

To learn more about how to install a bathtub on a tile, you can watch a photo, video on our website. Also, detailed instructions have been prepared for you.

Important installation nuances

The legs are attached to the bathtub so that the outlet of the siphon can easily flow into the sewer pipe. If your siphon is made of cast iron, then you will need to screw a steel tube into it;
The bath must be installed with a slope;
It is important to take into account the parallelism of the sides of the bathtub relative to the floor;
How to install a bath hermetically? The sealing of the joints is subject to mandatory verification. Small spaces between the wall and the plumbing board need to be cemented with a triangular recess. And apply a layer of acrylic paint on the outer surface;
The tightness of the places of contact between the bathtub and the sewer system is also a must!
If the installation of the bath takes place not against the wall, but in the center of the room, sealing the edges of the bath is not important at all;
Large gaps are filled with bricks, plastic plates or pipes with a special sealing layer;
It is also recommended to connect the bath to an electricity recovery system. A professional installer makes this connection with copper wire or steel strip;
Before using new plumbing, it is worth pouring about 10 liters of water into it. First hot, then cold;
The installation of a new bathtub with hydromassage requires you to follow the connection of additional communications.

Conclusion

Such subtle technical moments once again prove the need for professional intervention. They will explain to you in an accessible and understandable way how best to install the bath. For example, whirlpool baths are so difficult to install that a layman simply cannot cope with installing such a luxurious bathtub.

You can only tell the plumbers about your preferences, for example, where to install the bathtub. How to hide the visibility of pipes and wires. On these topics, professional installers will also give you a couple of useful tips.

Self-arrangement of a bathroom is more difficult than repairs in other rooms of apartments and houses with all the amenities. The main difficulties are caused by laying pipes in a closed circuit, installing a steel bath and other containers for personal hygiene. Bathroom and toilet are the most visited rooms in the apartment, and by their interior furnishings guests judge the cleanliness and real prosperity of the family. It is important to learn how to install the tank for taking water treatments without leaks, and the fastening of the steel bath must be reliable and stable.

What is important to know about installing a steel bath?

The bathroom is the place where the working day begins with a visit in the morning, where everyone takes turns putting themselves in order. Taking a bath in the evening upon returning home is not only a hygienic need, but also a place where you want to relax and tune in to your home rhythm of life. Someone refuses large containers in favor of a shower tray, but it is better to "relax" in a bathroom filled with aromatic foam. This is especially loved by women who simultaneously perform a number of face and body treatments. For general convenience, a comfortable steel bathtub and a cozy indoor atmosphere are needed.

The old bathtub, reddened from time to time, does not look against the background of new tiles or other cladding. It's not such a value to leave it after a major overhaul, and then spend a lot on grueling whitening and cleaning. It is much easier to buy a new tank and start installing a steel bath with your own hands. But it has its own characteristics, which is important to know for simple installation and effective use.

Any DIYer knows that buying new containers for personal hygiene is a very costly business today, and the service fee for an installer is often half the price, or even more. Therefore, it makes sense to start installing the steel bath yourself.

The modern building materials market offers bathrooms from different materials:

steel;
cast iron;
acrylic;
polymer concrete (artificial marble);
wooden (made of durable wood);
stone (carved from a solid block);
porcelain;
ceramic;
fiberglass;
composite (steel plus acrylic, acrylic plus quartz powder, fiberglass).

The steel bathroom is one of the most affordable containers. But it has some drawbacks that are eliminated during installation. There are options for installing a steel bath:

on a special frame or frame;
on finished metal legs;
on brick supports or podium;
on welded corners.

Attention: A full thin-walled steel container with a mass of water up to the brim may deform slightly, therefore it is not superfluous to make additional reinforcement - for an even load.

Features of the steel tank for installation in the bathroom

Steel fonts are available in different shades, shapes and sizes. The most popular example is an oblong rectangular tub, which is produced by stamping molding methods. This design comes with a set of sturdy feet for a secure fit. The inner surface, as a rule, is covered with a layer of smooth enamel for easy maintenance of the container.

The market also offers corner options with a curved outer edge, but these tubs are more expensive due to the more complex molding. They require a frame structure or are mounted on a special pallet with a large number of supports. And the installation of a steel bathtub on a frame is a new expense, for example, for a brick plinth with mosaic tiles.

Modern steel bathtubs are available with interior color options. Elite imported models do not visually differ from expensive products, but are much cheaper than luxury products. Their shape is extruded from a sheet of metal under high pressure and high temperature. Then a facing polymer layer, enamel is applied or combined with an acrylic container of the same shape.

Tip: When buying, carefully inspect the purchased product - the enamel should be smooth, without sagging and edges at the junction of the base and coating. Ask for a certificate from the manufacturer and a warranty card. The thickness of the bath depends on its susceptibility to deformation and overall service life. The thicker, the more expensive, and the cheapest bathtubs are used for temporary use - the enamel in them gradually cracks.

Attention: With a smaller distance between the walls of the bathroom than the dimensions of a steel bathtub up to 3-4 cm, it is quite easy to install it, but it is important to properly close the slots for sealing. If the edges of the tank are 2-3 cm wider, then recesses are cut on opposite walls to start its sides. Wall defect can be easily eliminated by tiling, but sealing is not required.

A steel bath differs from cast iron products in its low weight, so the installation of a steel bath can be done independently, without the help of assistants. A steel bath is stronger, and under strong mechanical stress, it deforms, and cast iron will crack.

Advantages and disadvantages of a steel bath, ways to eliminate them

An inexpensive steel container has a lot of advantages and small disadvantages, there are few of them, and they are eliminated during installation. Main pluses:

light weight;
easy transportation;
self-assembly is available;
quick warming up when filling before taking water procedures;
low cost with a decent design;
dense smooth enamel does not peel off, is easy to wash and clean, does not form a persistent calcium deposit, retains "new" shine and whiteness for many years with reasonable use;
due to the ductility of steel, variations in the shape of the container provide the largest selection on the market;
possibility of installation in several ways.

The main cons:

a thin-walled bath is susceptible to cracking of the enamel layer under heavy load or careless handling;
high heat transfer (the bathroom cools down quickly), thermal insulation of the outer layer is required;
shorter service life than cast iron or stone;
noisy filling with water;
thin-walled containers can deform if they are ineptly mounted on the legs for a steel bath and if they are overfilled.

Tip: To prevent the bath from "humming" when filling, not to cool down quickly, cover it with foam outside. This will not be visible when the catwalk is trimmed. When drawing water, use the mixer attachments with a rubber hose for silent filling.

Features of installing a steel tank in several ways

The installation method depends on the type of mounting hardware. The most common way is to mount on paired self-adhesive supports. The fastening for a steel bath in the form of an arc-shaped channel is questionable by some buyers. But if you follow the accompanying instructions, and the bathtub will rest against the wall with 2 ends, then such a fastening is quite reliable.

Calculations and measurements are made based on the future location of the steel tank. The bathtub cannot be wider than the place where it should stand. Ideally, the dimensions of the tank coincide with the place where the product is located, resting against the walls on three sides. Such fastening is the most effective and does not depend on the type of fastener.

The most even distribution of the load is when fastened around the entire perimeter to the frame or frame. It seems to sag, and so that when it is filled with water to the top, it does not deform, supports from below are also needed. In any case, the screws are additionally adjusted from the bottom if it is planned to install a steel bath on the legs. Each leg is individually adjusted in height and fixed to the floor.

When fixing to the wall is planned, experts must level the floors in the room and make markings on the walls strictly horizontally. This guarantees the absence of distortions and redistribution of the load at maximum filling. If a steel bath is installed on the corners for the frame, then it is sawn at its junction with a hacksaw for metal at 45 °. After preliminary fitting, welding will be required, and the resulting frame is fixed with brackets to the wall.

Attention: The more support zones, the more reliable the installation of the steel bath. If the container does not have legs, it is important to take into account the height of the supports when marking, so that there is a gap between the bathtub and the floor under it.

Insulation, soundproofing and sealing of a steel bath

Elimination of the shortcomings of the steel tank is carried out along the way with its installation. Noise insulation of the tank is made when processing with polyurethane foam or porous insulation, which is applied by spraying.

To make a quality finish, the steel bath is turned over and laid on the floor. A noise-absorbing fiber is glued on the previously degreased surface. In this case, it is important to carefully process the ends and securely fix with any sealant.

As mentioned in the section on disadvantages, the steel bath heats up quickly, which is good, but it cools down just as quickly, giving off heat. For this reason, they are trying to make high-quality thermal insulation or insulation of a steel bath. The same polyurethane foam will help to cope with this task. The foam is released in small portions from the can and the back of the font is evenly treated.

It is best to cover the surface with foam with polyethylene, smoothing and leveling the foam. When the foam has completed the expansion and hardening process, the bath is turned over and the installation is completed.

In production conditions, Vibroizol, which is well known to motorists, is used for noise and heat insulation. Good results are also obtained by treatment with sealants such as bituminous resin, which is used for general waterproofing in the bathroom.

A sealant is also needed to seal the gap between the bathtub and the wall. And there are many ways to prevent water from entering outside the container along the walls. Use:

construction silicone;
polyurethane foam;
duct tape for the bath;
plastic skirting boards;
special ceramic overlays in the form of skirting boards, etc.

Attention: If the foam has not yet dried, and the gap between the bathtub and the floor is minimal, then the expanding substance is capable of pushing out the container, disrupting the accuracy of installation. To prevent this from happening, it is advisable to make the light steel bathtub heavier by filling it to the brim with water. But this can be done only after installing the siphon and connecting to the sewer.

Siphon selection and installation method

A bathtub of any type is installed in a place where the closest exit to the sewer and connection to the water supply. The assembly of all components of the siphon is carried out in accordance with the instructions that are attached to any product. A detailed description and a diagram shows all the stages of the assembly. No matter how reliable the connection is, it is recommended to seal the seam with silicone or other sealant.

Attention: Any bathing container must have not only an opening for draining through a siphon, but also a hose for draining water through the overflow funnel. A conventional washbasin siphon is not suitable, only with a tee.

Semi-automatic siphons are now available for draining a full bath without having to find a gag. One turn of the washer and the water is drained. This is convenient for large containers, although this siphon is more expensive. The most practical are siphons with a bolted metal outlet, which are easier to install than plastic ones. Metal fasteners are coated on the outside with grease so as not to rust.

Fixing the bathtub to brick supports

Experts recommend installing a steel bath on bricks - the easiest and most reliable method. If the container rests on a solid support, like a podium, then this is the most stable position. But most often only the lower brick supports are used, and the bathtub is attached to the wall with brackets.

If you do the installation according to all the rules, the bathtub will be motionless, and this is not only comfortable when landing in the hot tub, but also guarantees the longest service life. An ordinary red brick is suitable, from which two lower supports or a podium-type perimeter are constructed.

It is very convenient to make 2-3 wide steps out of bricks with handrails, along which it is easier to climb into and out of the bath. When properly tiled, it looks very expensive, like a mini-pool in luxury hotels. A corner steel bathtub with a rounded edge is best suited for this purpose, and it is better to choose a mosaic cladding.

The supports are formed from 2-3 rows of red bricks so that they recede from the edges of the container from the bottom by 15-20 cm. From the brick, they form something like a recess under the bottom, so that its supports, as it were, cover a little from the sides on a half-brick. It is laid using an ordinary cement mixture with sand, after which the cement should harden within 2 days.

When installed on the lower brick supports, the niche under the bathroom is closed in front with a shield and covered with tiles or other facing moisture-resistant material. For example, bath steel installation, video: