Plaster grater - varieties and technology of work. Do-it-yourself wall plastering - all the secrets of the craft

Plastering is the most effective method of preparing a wall surface for topcoating, and is also one of the options decorative finishes. To give the top layer the necessary texture, it needs to be processed, grouted with plaster. By itself, this process is not very complicated, but it requires compliance with some rules. Without this, it will not be possible to achieve a high-quality result.

What is the grouting process

This is the last stage. It consists of eliminating minor flaws. The walls are leveled and smoothed by rubbing the previously applied composition with a special tool. Before grouting, a “coating” is applied to the working surface - this is the finishing layer of the plaster mortar. The grouting process is performed after the composition has set, but before it dries.

Tool selection

A trowel is an item used when applying a mixture and to eliminate defects made during the plastering process. With it, you can remove excess mortar from the surface and slightly level the base. However, it is impossible to achieve complete smoothness with it; this requires a grater. This tool has large quantity positive characteristics:

Ease of use. The design is made in such a way that even with many hours of continuous work, a person does not experience discomfort.
Light weight. For the production of graters, light materials are used so that the hands do not get tired of the weight during work.
Low cost.
Long service life. Subject to the application technique and careful attitude, one grater is enough to process thousands of square meters.
Big choice. On the construction markets the most different variants grater: wooden, plastic, metal, large, small and so on.
Waterproof. The tool for grouting plaster is made of materials that do not absorb moisture.

Varieties of graters

Previously, tools for grouting plaster were made exclusively from wood. A piece of wood was taken as a basis and a plane with a handle was cut out of it. But such a product has a significant drawback - natural material quickly absorbs moisture, therefore, during prolonged work it becomes very heavy, and after drying, the base is deformed and cracked.

Modern manufacturers produce graters different kind. They are classified depending on the material from which the work surface is made. It can be wood, plastic, polyurethane, latex, foam, rubber, sponge or metal. When choosing, you should rely on experience with these materials or on the recommendations of specialists.

Tool selection

Each type of grater has its own purpose:

Spongy. Used for grouting decorative plaster.
Styrofoam. The cheapest and most fragile material that breaks with any careless movement.
Metal. It is used for leveling porous plaster compositions, as well as for preparing the surface for applying paint.

A novice repairman is best to give preference to a polyurethane grater, which is strong, durable and light. But plastic product more suitable for professionals. Such a grater is most often used for one-time work on grouting plaster.

Preparing a coating solution

For this purpose, the composition is kneaded in the same proportions as for the main layer:

A mortar of cement - three parts of sand and one part of cement.
Cement-lime composition - one part of cement with lime is mixed with three parts of sand.

The only feature of the preparation of such solutions is to use as fine sand as possible. The grain size should not exceed 1.5 mm. Coarse sand can only be used if, as top coat walls will be used tiles.

In order for the plaster grout to be of high quality, it is necessary to monitor its fat content (content of binders). The greasy mixture will be poorly leveled and leave streaks, and if this indicator is insufficient, the plaster will begin to crumble during surface treatment.

Solution preparation

The process consists of the following steps:

Sand is sieved through a fine sieve optimal size cells - 1.5 * 1.5 mm.
Cement, sand are poured into the mixing container and all this is thoroughly mixed.
Water is poured in in small portions. This should be done until the solution acquires the desired consistency.

If a cement-lime mortar is mixed, then the lime must also be sifted through a sieve. If there are even small grains, traces will remain on the plastered surface, and subsequently it will not be possible to achieve perfect smoothness.

Procedure

The grouting process after plastering consists of several stages, the first of which is the application of a coating.

The plastered surface is wetted with a spray gun. This is necessary in order to increase the degree of adhesion of the primer layer to the coating. Humidification should be carried out evenly, without gaps. At the same time, the surface should not be heavily wetted, water should not drain in streams. This is done 15-20 minutes before applying the composition. If a work zone very large, then it must be divided into sections and wet only the one that will be processed. If you don't have a sprayer handy, you can use a brush. Soak it in water and spray on the wall.
To apply the coating, you will need a trowel and a wide spatula or metal rule. The solution is poured onto the work surface in small portions. You should start from the top, gradually distributing the composition as a rule over the entire wall. The tool must be pressed with force so that the solution clogs more densely and penetrates even into microscopic irregularities. Excess is removed immediately. The maximum thickness of this coating is 2 mm.
After coupling the solution, you can pick up a grater and start grouting cement plaster. Some masters prefer to do this at the same time as applying the composition.

When to do this - there is not much difference, and the result is not affected. The main thing is to distribute the composition well over the surface so that all irregularities disappear. Let's consider each of the methods in detail.

dry method

If you decide to wait until the plaster on the wall dries, and grout later, the process will be carried out as follows:

A polyurethane or metal grater dipped in water is taken.
The tool is pressed against working surface and with the help of circular movements, the process of leveling the plaster begins.

It is not necessary to press hard on the grater, otherwise there is a risk of tearing off the fresh composition, but too weak movements will not bring results.

Efforts must be distributed evenly, slowly moving along the surfaces from top to bottom or horizontally. At the joints of the walls, the base of the grater is applied parallel to the corners, and the direction of movement of the hands changes from circular to vertical. Where tubercles are visible, the tool should be pressed harder, and in deepening zones, the pressure force, on the contrary, is reduced. In the process, a solution is collected on the sides of the grater, so it needs to be removed from time to time. You can do this with a wet brush.

When grouting gypsum plaster on the large area the cover dries quickly. As a result, the job becomes more difficult. To correct the situation, the solution must be moistened with water. For this purpose, you can use a wet brush or spray.

Grout with mortar

When using the method with the application of the composition, the process consists of the following steps:

A small amount of mortar for grouting plaster is collected on a grater (its consistency should be slightly thinner than for plastering walls), after which the tool is applied to the surface and the contents are evenly distributed over the plane. In this case, the grater must be kept at an angle.
After applying the solution, the tool blade is pressed against the wall, and the grouting process begins. Movements can be arched or circular, but always careful and uniform.

With this method of application, the solution for grouting walls after plastering is spent very economically, but it takes a lot of time. To avoid solidification of the composition, it is better to knead it in small portions. If one is processed large plane, then the intervals between grouting adjacent sections should be as short as possible, a break is allowed only to prepare a new portion of the solution. When moistening the next square of the surface, it is recommended to moisten the edges of the already rubbed, this will increase the degree of adhesion. After drying, the transitions will not be noticeable.

You can check the quality of the work performed in the following ways:

Directing the light of the lamp along the work surface will help to identify any bumps and errors.
The building level applied to the surfaces will accurately “show” whether there are any irregularities. You can eliminate the shortcomings with the help of a grinding bar (grater).

Before proceeding with the grouting of the surface of the walls, it is necessary to take measures to protect other rooms of the residential building from the smallest dust particles that inevitably form during the plastering process. The following steps will help keep you clean:

Wrapping all furniture and items in the room, plastic wrap. For more thorough protection, secure the material with tape.
Window covering with polyethylene. The film is fixed along the width and length of the openings with adhesive tape.
hanging on front door wet fabric. A wet cloth is also laid under the threshold so that dust does not fly out into neighboring rooms.

Also, take care of your own safety. In the process of plastering and grouting walls, it is recommended to wear a special mask, goggles and clothing. Before sending items to washing machine they must be shaken out thoroughly.

Conclusion

Grouting plaster with your own hands is, of course, a laborious process, but not very difficult. Almost anyone can master the work, even without the appropriate skills. To get a good result will require patience, practice and quality materials. If you take the matter seriously, then, in the end, you will get beautiful and even walls, completely ready for further processing.

To eliminate the remaining errors on the leveled surfaces, the plaster is grouted. The technology lies in the fact that with the help of a special tool smoothing and complete leveling of the coating is performed. It should be noted that this process is typical for work with decorative mixtures to give the required texture.

Grouting is carried out at the last stage of finishing work. Standard technology assumes that the event will be performed after some time on a dry surface.

For work, a special tool is used - a grater. Exist different kinds this fixture:

The tool is prepared in advance. If a used grater is used, it should be thoroughly cleaned of all contaminants. When purchasing a new tool - especially one made of fragile materials - it is wise to make sure that the base is perfectly flat and undamaged.

Peculiarities

It is necessary to take into account certain nuances that will help achieve the desired result:

To obtain a perfect coating, the coating method is used. This method consists in the fact that a thin layer of a solution similar in composition is applied to the dried plastered surface. The thickness should not exceed 2 mm. This option is suitable in situations where the previously used mixture included large fractions. This is typical for draft cement compositions.

Wall grouting after gypsum-based plastering can be carried out without coating. Due to the structure of the solution, the coating is smooth and without preliminary manipulations.
Exist various options final alignment. Each of them is selected based on what facing material will be used in the future.

In any case, the work will require a sufficient amount of strength and utmost accuracy.

Standard grout options

If the plastered surface will be used as a base, then there are several basic options for doing the job.

Dry grouting

This process is started after the initial setting of the coating. For work, a metal or polyurethane type of grater is used.

The technology is:

Thus, it is possible to obtain a wall that, after drying, will be ready for laying. ceramic tiles or wallpaper stickers.

The method of "overclocking"

How to grind plaster for subsequent painting of the surface? If you use exclusively the previous method, then it will be impossible to completely get rid of the smallest flaws. For such a case, the "overclocking" option is used. This procedure is started immediately, as dry grouting is carried out.

For work, a special grater with rounded edges is used, the surface is not wetted. An important nuance is that the movements should be carried out only in one direction - vertically. That is, the coverage is divided into conditional sections, approximately 1 sq. m, the grater is installed in the selected place, pressed and successive movements up and down are made. All walls are gradually processed.

Naturally, you can get the perfect result only when the plastering is initially carried out according to the rules.

Wet grout

There is another option for grouting - directly with a plaster solution. The principle is as follows:

A little prepared mixture is collected on a grater. It is important to consider that in its structure it should be quite liquid.
The tool is applied at an angle to the surface, the composition is evenly distributed.
The sole of the grater is cleaned of excess.
Next, the tool blade is installed on the coating and arcuate movements are made.

On a note! This option takes a lot of time. Adjacent areas should also be moistened if they are drying out.

VIDEO:

Methods for decorative grouting

Grouting plaster with floats, provided that the composition used is used as a decorative one, is carried out by two methods. The tool in both cases is selected individually. To obtain a soft relief, a device with a smooth sole is purchased, and for a more expressive texture, special textured graters are purchased.

The process of grouting textured plaster

Method One

You can wipe the coating as follows:

The prepared plaster solution is applied to the base. In this case, the mixture is not smoothed. But it is important to observe one condition - the layer must be evenly spaced, without skipping sections.
It is necessary to wait some time to allow the composition to seize. Readiness is easy to check, if you press a spatula to the surface, the mixture should not stick.
The grater is slightly moistened and moved with light pressure in one direction. Strong pressure should not be allowed, this can smooth out the created relief. The main thing is to remove excessively protruding areas.

The result will be a coating with a texture that is close to natural in appearance.

VIDEO:

Method two

The principle is:

The selected composition is laid with a layer of no more than 3 mm. Unlike the previous version, it is evenly smeared over the surface, you need to get an almost even coating.
After preliminary drying of the solution, grouting is carried out. In this case, the movements can be multidirectional.
The grater is sometimes moistened and excess composition is removed.

On a note! If you use a textured tool, the relief will be even more pronounced.

Grouting in a mechanized way

Process if necessary large area or to reduce the working time, a trowel for plaster is used. It is a power tool on which special disks are installed.

The process goes like this:

The circle necessary for work joins the machine. There are varieties with a water supply hose for wetting the surface.
The device is connected to the mains. When turning on, you should wait until the disks gain required amount revolutions.
The rotating circle is gently pressed against the surface and evenly moved.
If water supply is not provided, then some places are wetted on their own.

This option greatly simplifies the workflow, but some experience is required to use the machine.

Often modern masters began to use plaster for the manufacture of the finishing layer. In this case, the surface must be subjected to special processing in order to give it a good appearance or the necessary texture.

This process is called grouting plaster, and it is performed both during the application of the material and after it has solidified.

Types of work and their execution

To begin with, it must be said that professional craftsmen treat this stage of work very responsibly. The fact is that it cannot be carried out along certain guides or focusing on the markup. All work is carried out in visual control with properly selected lighting.

Smooth surface

The usual grouting of walls after plastering involves the creation of a perfectly smooth surface on which paint or varnish can be applied. Also, similar techniques are used when choosing wallpaper as a finish coating.
It must be said that gypsum mixtures are best rubbed due to their viscosity. cement mortars at the same time, they can crumble heavily, and in order to eliminate this phenomenon, professional craftsmen recommend adding a small amount of plasticizer to the solution when mixing it.

The question of how to overwrite the plaster deserves special attention, since it causes a lot of controversy among the masters. However, the answer to it is quite simple, especially if you come across such work every day.
The fact is that in order to apply a uniform layer, which in itself will be perfectly smooth, it is best to use a metal grater. In this case, to work with a hardening surface, it is worth using a tool made of polyurethane. It is strong enough not to rub off in one go and will not damage the plaster as it is malleable.

Produce this work when the surface of the plaster begins to harden. In this case, you can slightly moisten the grater with water and proceed with vertical and horizontal movements, the purpose of which is to smooth out small particles, distributing them evenly over the entire area.
Professional craftsmen recommend using a primer instead of water after plastering. It will serve as an excellent binder and create a kind of film. At the same time, the installation instructions say that in this case the surface must be treated completely so that there are no dry spots left.

Advice!
Special attention must be paid to the corners.
When working in their location, it is better to use measuring tools in the form of corners.
Otherwise, even a small defect will be noticeable in this area.

decorative surface

If everything is clear with a flat and smooth surface, then it is rather difficult to answer the question of how to rub plaster when creating decorative systems. This is due to the fact that there are a huge number of different types of similar materials that have their own unique installation method. Also, some masters use when grouting homemade tool, which creates unique coatings.

Considering this feature, for example, it is worth considering the process of installing bark beetle type plaster in order to understand the manufacturing principle.
It should be noted right away that such a surface is very easy to create with your own hands, which is why craftsmen use such compositions so often.

First, using a metal grater, the composition is applied to the wall. At the same time, it should be said that it contains rather large inclusions of auxiliary elements that begin to scratch the layer. Therefore, the work is done in small jerks so that solid lines are not obtained.
As a result, such scratches very much resemble traces in wood from a bark beetle. However, the surface itself remains rough and not suitable for indoor installation. Therefore, it must be treated with a grater for plaster.

It is worth noting that a special tool is needed for such a wall. Its price is not very high, since in fact it is sandpaper or a grid for grouting putty. However, it is best to purchase a special device to hold the replaceable abrasive segments.
This work should be done only after the surface has completely hardened, so as not to damage the previously created pattern.

After that, a brush or brush is passed along its surface to remove all debris and dust from the furrows.
At the final stage, professional craftsmen advise to treat with a primer in order to fix the relief, protecting it from shedding small particles. Also, such an action will significantly reduce the level of absorbency of the material, which will significantly reduce the cost of dyes or glue during the subsequent stages of installation.

Advice!
Start work with decorative species coverage is best from places that are not conspicuous or will not be visible.
So you can practice the technique of applying and grouting.

Conclusion

By watching the video in this article, you can get more detailed information about how such a procedure is performed, and find out all its features. Also, based on the text presented above, it should be concluded that there are several options for the work of this work, which directly depend on appearance final product.

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Selection of a grater for grouting plaster

One of the stages plastering works is the selection of a grater (grinding block). This tool can be either wooden or polyurethane. In general, a plaster grater consists of a cloth (sponge or felt material) and a handle. At the same time, the handle of the grater for grouting the plaster should be such that when working with it, the fingers pass through the grater freely, that is, it is matched to the hand.

The best option for manually grouting gypsum plaster is a wooden grater, to the handle of which the fabric base is fixed (using wooden pins or other ordinary hardware). At the same time, it should be remembered that when the canvas is abraded, hardware or wooden pins, with diligent execution of the process, can leave scratches on the rubbed surface. In this regard, they (fasteners) must be methodically periodically deepened into the fabric base.

For the best result, the fabric base of the plaster layer can be upholstered in special cases with felt or felt material.

On a note: correct selection tool will save not only your strength, but also time. For example, when the wall surface is small, it is better to use a sanding bar. In the case when the wall area is large and even, it is advisable to use an electric surface grinder. more complex uneven surface Sanding is best done with a powerful eccentric sander. However, in any case, smoothing the corners will have to be done manually.

Stages of grouting plaster

Of course, after the final application of the layer of plaster, the question arises of how to overwrite it. Indeed, with the main covering of the walls with plaster, it is impossible to exclude the smallest irregularities. In this regard, it is recommended to qualitatively and reliably wipe the surface of the walls or ceiling after working with a spatula or trowel in two stages:

Rough grout of the plaster layer;
smoothing down.

Depending on what it is planned to cover the rubbed area of the surface of the room in the future, the quality of grinding can be different. For example, if it is being prepared for painting, then it will need to be polished several times (first, rough sandpaper with a grain size of up to 60, and then with a sanding mesh with a grain size of 100 to 120). These actions help to give the sanded area a perfectly smooth surface. However, if it is planned to subsequently paste over the sanded surface with wallpaper, then the second stage of grouting the plaster can be omitted.

Rough work

This stage of grinding the surface covered with plaster is carried out as follows:

The layer of plaster on the treated area is slightly wetted with water from a spray bottle.
Grater or bar with wooden surface make a rough grout, that is, in a counterclockwise circular motion, grind a rough wall or ceiling. At the same time, it is necessary to observe the pressure force so as not to tear off the layer of coating (finishing layer of plaster).
With a grater with felt, which will need to be slightly moistened with water, make the final mashing with direct movements (the so-called mashing “overclocking”).

In places where the treated area is small (between the door jamb and the corner), it is recommended to use a trowel, this is the same sponge trowel, only smaller.

After rough grinding of the plaster, you can start smoothing its surface.

Smoothing the plaster layer

Smoothing is done with a grater with a flat rubber or metal layer. In this case, a grater with an elastic band is used when grinding the surface prepared for the subsequent coating of the plaster layer with adhesive paint, and with a metal layer - with ordinary oil.

The smoothing of the plastered surface itself is carried out by the following actions:

First, a grater with a metal or rubber layer gently makes vertical movements from the ceiling to the floor.
Then, with perpendicular, that is, horizontal, movements, the same grater is manipulated from one edge of the surface to be treated to the other.

In no case is it allowed to make circular movements with the tool during the final smoothing of the plastered surface, it is forbidden to smooth the surface in reverse order. Until the vertical movement of the grinding tool over the entire surface being machined is completed, it is forbidden to start a horizontal move.

If the plaster was grouted on the ceiling, then smoothing should be carried out initially in the direction of the line of window openings, and only after that - across.

In the event that all the manipulations performed during the plastering of the walls or ceiling were performed correctly, a very, very even, as well as beautiful surface should come out in the repaired room.

You can verify the correctness of the work performed:

Using lighting, direct the light of the lamp along the wall and inspect the treated surface, that is, see the result.
By applying a building level to the surface, it is precisely to determine whether there are irregularities on it somewhere. In this case, all the shortcomings can be eliminated with the help of the same grinding bar (grater).

Before overwriting the plaster, it is necessary to take measures to ensure that the smallest dust particles that inevitably arise when plastering surfaces do not penetrate into other rooms of the residential building. For this it is recommended:

Thoroughly wrap all the furniture in the room with protective plastic wrap, while fixing its edges with adhesive tape.
Hang the window openings with the same film, that is, fix it in the same way with adhesive tape along the entire length and width of the openings.
Hang an unnecessary towel moistened with water on the front door, and additionally put similar material under the threshold and cover the door opening with another towel;

Among other things, you need to take care of yourself: during the plastering of the surface, you must wear special goggles and a mask. Before washing dirty clothes soiled with dust must be thoroughly shaken out.

Upon completion of the grouting of the plaster, it is recommended that the entire treated surface be cleaned of fine dust before painting or wallpapering with a conventional vacuum cleaner or soft brush.

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What is grout

Grouting is the final stage of plastering work, which consists in eliminating the smallest errors, leveling and smoothing the surface by rubbing the dried mortar with a special tool. When using decorative plaster, the main purpose of the grout is to form a certain relief of the working plane.

Before grouting, a “coating” is applied to the base - the finishing layer of the plaster mortar. base layer, or soil, is very durable, and therefore difficult to process, while the coating provides uniform filling of irregularities and maximum smoothness during grouting. Rub the plaster after setting the solution, but before it dries completely.

Tools for the job

In principle, only one tool is used for grouting plaster - a grater, which is a rectangular canvas with a handle. Graters differ in size and material of manufacture, and depending on this they are used for a certain type of work.

Types of graters	Characteristics
	A wooden grater is suitable for cement and gypsum plaster, it makes it possible to smooth the surface as much as possible and eliminate minor irregularities. It can be made independently from an ordinary bar. At the same time, it has significant drawbacks - the tree is saturated with moisture, which complicates the work, the lower part is quickly erased, after drying the canvas can be deformed
	As a rule, plastic floats are used to distribute the plaster mixture in small areas, with the subsequent formation of a smooth or embossed surface texture. Their use requires certain skills in plastering.
	Easy to use, lightweight and durable. Differs in low abrasion, suitable for all types of plasters
	Affordable, easy to use and light grater, but very short-lived. It is mainly used for final grinding of the plaster layer.
	The working surface of such graters is made of a sponge of various densities, as well as latex and rubber. It is used to form a decorative texture on the surface, finishing smoothing
	Metal graters are designed to compact the plaster layer, forming a perfectly smooth base for painting.

Preparation of coating solution

The coating solution is kneaded in the same proportions as for the base layer:

cement mortar - part of cement and 3 parts of sand;
cement-lime - 1 part of cement and slaked lime, 3 parts of sand.

The only difference is that the finest sand is used for covering, with a grain size of not more than 1.5 mm.

Coarse sand is allowed only if the base is plastered under the tile. For high-quality grouting, the solution must have a normal fat content: lean mixtures do not have sufficient strength and crumble during surface treatment, and excessively greasy ones are poorly leveled and leave stripes.

Advice. It is not difficult to determine the fat content of a plaster mortar: if it sticks strongly to the trowel, it is a greasy solution, and you need to add sand, if it does not stick at all, it is a lean mortar that lacks cement. The normal solution is easily stirred, has a uniform consistency, leaves an even thin mark on the trowel.

Sand is sifted through a sieve with a mesh size of not more than 1.5x1.5 mm.

Pour cement into the mixing container, add sifted sand and mix dry. Next, pour water in small portions to achieve the desired consistency.

When mixing a cement-lime mortar, the lime dough should also be filtered through a sieve. The presence of even small grains will lead to the formation of marks on the surface, and it will not be possible to achieve perfect smoothness.

Procedure for grouting

Coating application

Step 1. The plastered surface is moistened with a sprayer. This increases the adhesion of the coating to the primer layer. It should be moistened evenly, without gaps and not too abundantly so that water does not flow from the wall in streams. This should be done 15-20 minutes before applying the solution. If the working area is large, you should divide it into squares, and wet only the area that will be processed.

Step 2 To apply the coating, you will need a trowel and a metal rule, or a wide spatula.

The solution is thrown in small portions onto the wall, starting from the top, after which it is distributed by the rule over the entire plane. The rule must be pressed well with your hands so that the solution is more densely clogged into the slightest irregularities. Excess mixture should be removed. The thickness of this finishing layer should not exceed 2 mm.

Step 3 When the coating is slightly seized, take a grater and begin to rub the surface. Some plasterers prefer to grout at the same time as applying the mortar.

There is no fundamental difference here, and this does not affect the result in any way, the main thing is to grind the composition along the plane with high quality in order to eliminate irregularities. Let's take a closer look at both options.

Dry grout

So, if you decide to wait for the plaster to set, the grouting process is carried out as follows: they take a polyurethane or metal grater, moisten it with water, press it to the surface and smooth the plaster in a circular motion. You don’t need to press hard on the grater - this way you can tear off a fresh solution and have to repair scratches, but it makes no sense to rub too weakly.

Perform movements with the same effort, slowly moving along the plane from top to bottom or horizontally. At the joints of the walls, apply the grater blade parallel to the corners and rub vertical movements, not in a circle. Where elevations are noticeable, the tool is pressed harder; on the recesses, on the contrary, the pressure force is reduced. A solution is collected on the side of the grater during operation, so it must be cleaned periodically.

When grouting a large area, the coating can dry out quickly and become more difficult to work with. To soften the coating, it is periodically moistened with water. You can use a spray bottle or put a bucket of water next to it and prepare a wide brush with long bristles. With the same brush it is convenient to remove excess mortar from the grater.

Grout with mortar

If grouting is carried out with the application of a mortar, the procedure will be as follows: the mortar is made a little thinner than the plaster mixture, they are picked up a little directly on the grater, the tool is applied to the wall and the composition is distributed over the plane with pressure. The grater must be held at an angle to the surface. Having smeared the solution, press the cloth of the grater against the wall and carefully rub everything in circular or arcuate movements. Try to rub intensively, applying uniform efforts, then smoothing is faster and better.

Very little solution is required for this application, and it takes a lot of time to grout, and it is better to knead in small portions to avoid solidification. When processing one plane, the intervals between grouting adjacent sections should be minimal - take a break only to prepare the solution. Moisturizing each subsequent square, moisten the already worn edges a little - this will increase the adhesion of the solution and transitions will not be visible at the border of adjacent sections.

Grout "round" and "overclocking"

Surface treatment in a circular motion is called "circular" grouting. This method allows you to well compact the plaster layer, get rid of all the tubercles and depressions. But it still does not give ideal smoothness, since noticeable arched traces remain from the circular movements of the grater. Of course, such a base is quite suitable for tiles or textured paint, but under ordinary paint, these irregularities are clearly visible. Where the smoothest possible surface is required, it is necessary to grout in another way - “overclocking”.

Grouting "overrunning" must be carried out necessarily on wet plaster and immediately after grouting "round". Only under these conditions can an excellent result be achieved. A solution is no longer needed here, and moisturizing is performed only if necessary. Another important point- the grater must be absolutely clean, even, with rounded edges. If the tool is not cleaned of the solution, hardened crumbs will leave scratches on the plane, as well as the sharp edges of the canvas.

For convenience, the surface is treated small areas- about 1 m2. The grater is pressed against the wall and driven up and down the plane with measured, precise movements. During grouting, try not to tear the tool away from the plaster, and keep the same pressure all the time. Horizontal or circular movements are not allowed here - only vertical ones.

Surface Smoothing

Smoothing is the final, but optional, step in smoothing the surface. Some master plasterers replace grout with it, but only if factory plaster mixes High Quality. For smoothing, use a grater covered with felt or rubber, or metal. In general, the process resembles “overclocking” grouting, only the surface is treated twice: the first time the movements are performed strictly vertically from top to bottom, the second circle - horizontally.

Grouting decorative plaster

The pattern of decorative plaster is formed in two ways - during application and after the mortar has set. In the first case, smooth trowels are used for grouting, which allow you to remove sharp protrusions on the surface and soften the relief of the pattern, in the second case, both smooth and textured trowels can be used, depending on the composition of the plaster.

1 way

A solution is applied to the prepared base with a spatula or trowel, making strokes in a certain order or randomly. Nothing needs to be leveled and smoothed, the main thing is that the layer of plaster lays down in approximately the same layer over the entire area, and there are no missed sections left. After application, you need to wait about 20 minutes until the solution grabs so as not to stick to the instrument. Next, they take a grater, moisten it with water, apply the canvas to the surface and, with light pressure, very carefully perform movements in one direction.

If you apply too much pressure, the plaster will smooth out and the pattern will be smudged. And so only sharp protrusions will be smoothed out, the recesses will take on a slightly more rounded shape. Periodically, the grater needs to be moistened for easier sliding.

2 way

The plaster is applied in a layer of 2-3 mm and carefully distributed over the plane with a metal spatula or a rule. The surface should be as smooth as possible, without traces from the spatula, transitions and other defects. Allow the solution to dry a little (15-20 minutes), and proceed to the grout. Here it is more convenient to use a plastic grater. Grouting is carried out in strips with a width of not more than 1.5 m.

Movements can be circular, vertical, horizontal, oblique and even zigzag, but always in one direction. Only in this way a clear pattern will appear on the surface.

Be sure to moisten the grater, and in the process of work, periodically clean it from adhering plaster - its particles fall into the recesses and lubricate the pattern. Perform movements carefully, trying not to cling to already completed sections. After processing one strip, immediately begin to overwrite the next. So that transitions between the strips are not visible, moisten the joints well with water. Do not allow interruptions in work, because the plaster dries quickly, and it will be impossible to form the desired pattern.

After grouting is completed, wait for the surface to dry completely and treat the walls with a foam grater. Such grinding will give the coating smoothness, remove excess particles of the solution, and at the same time will not damage the pattern at all.

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Tool

For work, a special tool is used - a grater. There are different types of this device:

Peculiarities

It is necessary to take into account certain nuances that will help achieve the desired result:

To obtain a perfect coating, the coating method is used. This method consists in the fact that a thin layer of a solution similar in composition is applied to the dried plastered surface. The thickness should not exceed 2 mm. This option is suitable in situations where the previously used mixture included large fractions. This is typical for draft cement compositions.

Wall grouting after gypsum-based plastering can be carried out without coating. Due to the structure of the solution, the coating is smooth and without preliminary manipulations.
There are various options for final alignment. Each of them is selected based on what facing material will be used in the future.

In any case, the work will require a sufficient amount of strength and utmost accuracy.

Standard grout options

If the plastered surface will be used as a base, then there are several basic options for doing the job.

Dry grouting

This process is started after the initial setting of the coating. For work, a metal or polyurethane type of grater is used.

Dry grouting plaster with a metal float

The technology is:

Thus, it is possible to obtain a wall that, after drying, will be ready for laying ceramic tiles or wallpapering.

The method of "overclocking"

For the overclocking method, a grater with rounded edges is used.

Movements when grouting plaster

Naturally, you can get the perfect result only when the plastering is initially carried out according to the rules.

Wet grout

There is another option for grouting - directly with a plaster solution. The principle is as follows:

A little prepared mixture is collected on a grater. It is important to consider that in its structure it should be quite liquid.
The tool is applied at an angle to the surface, the composition is evenly distributed.
The sole of the grater is cleaned of excess.
Next, the tool blade is installed on the coating and arcuate movements are made.

On a note! This option takes a lot of time. Adjacent areas should also be moistened if they are drying out.

Methods for decorative grouting

The process of grouting textured plaster

Method One

You can wipe the coating as follows:

The prepared plaster solution is applied to the base. In this case, the mixture is not smoothed. But it is important to observe one condition - the layer must be evenly spaced, without skipping sections.
It is necessary to wait some time to allow the composition to seize. Readiness is easy to check, if you press a spatula to the surface, the mixture should not stick.
The grater is slightly moistened and moved with light pressure in one direction. Strong pressure should not be allowed, this can smooth out the created relief. The main thing is to remove excessively protruding areas.

The result will be a coating with a texture that is close to natural in appearance.

Method two

The principle is:

The selected composition is laid with a layer of no more than 3 mm. Unlike the previous version, it is evenly smeared over the surface, you need to get an almost even coating.
After preliminary drying of the solution, grouting is carried out. In this case, the movements can be multidirectional.
The grater is sometimes moistened and excess composition is removed.

On a note! If you use a textured tool, the relief will be even more pronounced.

K category: Plaster work

Grouting and smoothing plaster

Having leveled the soil well, proceed to its covering and grouting. The solution prepared for covering is filtered through a sieve with a mesh section of 2X2 mm and applied in a thin layer, carefully leveling to a thickness of 1-2 mm.

Rice. 1. Husks, whiskers, chamfers and the technique of rubbing them: 1 - husks, whiskers and chamfers; 2 - shaped trowels

As soon as the solution seizes, proceed to the grout. Grouting is done by hand with a wooden float. For the cleanliness of the grout, the grater cloth is sometimes upholstered with dense felt or felt. The order of grouting is as follows. AT right hand the plasterer takes a grater, in the left - a petrified stone. A bucket of water is placed on the floor or on a stand near the workplace to wet the plaster. If the plaster is wet and soft, then it is overwritten without wetting with water. From water, dry plaster becomes softer and rubs faster.

Grouting can be done with a grater in a circular motion, directing them counterclockwise. Such a grout is called round.

The solution, which has accumulated on the edges of the grater, is periodically scraped off on the handle of the stone.

During grouting, a certain force is applied to the grater. The pressing force depends on the hardness of the surface. If the surface is dry, then the pressure on the grater increases. If there is a bump under the grater, then it is compared by increasing pressure on the grater. On even and smooth places, the pressure is correspondingly weakened. During grouting, the grater is not torn off on the surface immediately, but is gradually shifted and one edge is raised.

After grouting, the surface of the plaster should be clean, even, without dents, sags and missing places. Grout round leaves a mark from the work of the grater. To get a cleaner grout, without highlighting the annular marks from the trowel, the rubbed around the plaster is additionally dispersed, or, as they say, overrun.

Grouting is carried out after grouting in a circular manner as follows: Take a grater with your hand, lightly press it against the surface and make large rectilinear movements with it, sweeping, thereby comparing all the irregularities (annular stripes). When working on the walls, the worker swings the trowel to its full height, smoothing the plaster in two strokes from the ceiling to the scaffold and from the scaffold to the floor level (with a room height of up to 4 m). If the room is higher than 4 m, the grout is dispersed in three strokes.

When grouting the ceiling, the length of the overclocking strips is equal to the possible length of a wave of the hand. Dispersal is carried out along the length of the ceiling. The strips from the grout round must be rubbed in such a way that they converge without layers and joints.

Rice. 2. Plaster smoothing

In addition to grouting, the surfaces are smoothed with trowels. The trowel is a wooden trowel upholstered with rubber. The length of the trowel for trowels is on average 50 cm. When smoothing the surface of the plaster with a trowel for covering, it is recommended to prepare more greasy solutions filtered through a fine sieve. The applied coating is preliminarily leveled with an ordinary trowel, and then they are cleaned and smoothed out with a trowel and smooth out all the roughness.

The smoothing technique consists in the fact that the applied coating is first smoothed vertically and then horizontally, thereby cleaning off the remaining traces from the first operation (Fig. 2).

The methods of working with a trowel and the technique of pressing it are no different from working with a trowel when leveling the solution. In the process of smoothing down, the cavities are smeared with a solution and immediately smoothed out. If, after drying, shells form in some places, they are covered with a solution and smoothed down. The cleanliness of smoothing depends on the skill of the plasterer.

- Grouting and smoothing plaster