How to build a brick heating stove with your own hands. Brick kilns: types, device, calculation, construction technology independently

In the last century, the Russian stove was a multifunctional device. It is heating rooms in winter time, at the same time, it is hot and healthy food, the ability to preserve the harvest due to drying, and household amenities in the form of hot water. It cannot be argued that the Russian brick oven is an ideal device. The disadvantage of the stove as heating is uneven heating. Modern stoves are designed to warm up the room to its full height.

The Russian stove consists of the following parts and elements:

1. Opechek- used for storing and drying wood.
2. Cold stove- a slight depression in which various dishes are stored.
3. Six- the area on which the pot can be placed.
4. Under- this is the floor of the cooking chamber. Has a slight slope towards the mouth, for easy movement of heavy dishes. It needs to be polished with high quality.
5. Cooking chamber- a place for laying firewood, and cooking food. The vault of the furnace also has a slope.
6. Overtube- a camera above the pole. The chimney pipe is located higher.
7. Strangler- a special hole for connecting a samovar pipe.
8. View- overlapping door.
9. Lounger- horizontal surface, located behind the chimney. You can easily sleep on it in the winter.

The improved Russian stove is now more common.
It differs in the heating of the underfloor part, due to which the heating of the room becomes more comfortable.

For the masonry of the furnace part, a refractory brick made of chamotte clay is used. The rest of the structure is made of ceramic bricks.

Almost every stove has metal or cast iron parts, such as doors and dampers. They can also be prepared in specific quantities. You will need the following items:

1. Doors: furnace and blower, as well as a cleaning door, ventilation for the chimney.
2. Grate;
3. Metal latches;
4. View;
5. Crucible damper;
6. Hot water box;
7. Plate;
8. Steel strips.

To bookmark certain details - arches and vaults - you need easy-to-use templates. They are produced from wood and plywood elements and parts.

Preparation of masonry mortar

Masonry mortar, unlike ordinary mortar, is much more difficult to prepare for oven work. You can buy and ready mix in the shop. But, if you decide to build a Russian stove with your own hands, then you can prepare the solution yourself.

Masonry solutions for stoves are selected depending on:

• If used for masonry solid brick brand M150, then apply clay-sand solution... It is also used for lining the oven with special ceramic tiles;
• For laying refractory bricks, use based on special refractory clay with the addition of sand;
• When using fireclay bricks, use refractory clay mortars;
• In the interval of the attic, brick pipes are laid using cement-sand mortar;

Usually, the stove is located against an inner wall, which has a shallow foundation. For the independence of the foundations, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5 cm between them, and fill it with sand. And the upper edge of the foundation should not reach the floor level by 14 cm.

If the oven is placed near outer wall, on a deepened strip foundation, it will be necessary to expand the pit and make sand and gravel backfill with careful tamping. Next, a stove is arranged with a certain gap from the base of the house, the so-called retreat. Sand is poured into it, and its end walls are formed with brickwork.

If you decide to install the stove in the opening, then you just need to connect the ends of the lower crown. This can be done using strips of steel, which are placed on the logs on both sides and tightened with special bolts. Further, the opening is framed with special wooden racks. There must be a circulation gap between them and the future furnace, also called cutting. There should be a gap under the wall in the foundation of the house, which will be equal to the width of the base of the furnace on each side.

DIY Russian stove masonry ordering

The main requirement for the laying of the stove is tightness. That is why only whole bricks go to the stove without any cracks, and the seams are made thin - no more than 5 mm. It is not necessary to achieve airtightness by coating all the walls of the furnace with clay from the inside - this will reduce thermal conductivity and increase the deposits of soot and soot. In addition, the clay flakes off and clogs the channels inside the oven, which will be quite problematic to clean. To date, the following methods are used:

• brickwork- at this method the wall thickness will be equal to the length of the brick;
• half brick masonry- here the brick will be laid flat along the wall;
• quarter masonry- i.e. the brick will be placed on the edge.

The dressing of the seams will be due to the use of bonded and spoon masonry or not full-size building material in the corners.

If using ceramic brick, it must be pre-soaked, as it will "pull" all the moisture from the solution.

During installation, be sure to remove excess mixture, and especially on the inside of the oven. Lay the outer walls of the oven “in brick”, and the inner ones “in half a brick”. Row masonry is the order of masonry operations in each subsequent row. Due to this process, anyone can build a Russian stove.

First row are laid from burnt bricks, it absorbs little moisture. For the first row, the corners are laid out from cut bricks.

Second row begins with the laying of the walls of the furnace, cleanings are laid in the front and on the left side. As a rule, an ash pan is formed on the front part on the right side of the furnace.

V third row cleansing on the left are laid without solution. From the front side, the blower and cleaning doors are installed. The doors are mounted using baked steel wire, which is installed in the cuts in the bricks and fastened with masonry mortar.

V fourth row hearth channels overlap.

On the fifth row install the grate of the small firebox. To install the inside of the firebox, refractory bricks are used; it is also laid without using mortar.

V seventh row the grate of the stove is being installed, the walls of the first firebox are being mounted. The right wall must be reinforced with a steel strip.

V eighth and ninth row masonry of walls and internal channels continues. The doors of the stove and small firebox are mounted.

V tenth row the vaults of the first and second firebox will be connected. Cover the bottom of the crucible. And the smoke channels are taken out into the crucible.

V next row a steel corner is mounted on the front edge of the masonry, a plate is installed on top. The space of the right firebox is covered with a special removable grate.

V twelfth row the laying of the front walls of the furnace and the side walls of the slab begins using refractory bricks. The furnace flap is mounted. To the left of the stove, the lower part of the chimney begins to form.

WITH 13 to 16th row the laying of the walls of the furnace continues and the mouth of the furnace is closed.

V seventeenth row at the beginning of a certain narrowing of the arch of the furnace and expansion of the main chimney. And the back wall of the oven is reinforced with a steel tie.

V 18th row the roof of the furnace will overlap, and the front wall of the furnace will begin to be laid, which forms an overtube.

V 19th row the front wall of the crucible is strengthened with a screed, the walls are being installed above the crucible, forming a certain space for backfill.

V 21st row the stove is closed, and the overtube will gradually narrow towards the chimney.

The stove brings coziness and comfort, so rarely what private house does without it. The services of professional stove-makers are quite expensive and not everyone can afford. We will tell you how to properly build a brick stove.

Furnace types - classification depending on the parameters

Stove masonry is not an easy task, but anyone with the knowledge and patience can handle it. When choosing a furnace, take into account the parameters by which they are classified. The first step is to pay attention to its purpose. Heating stoves are designed only for heating, they can accumulate heat and give it away for a long time. For this external walls spread in half a brick, or even a whole one. They slowly warm up and slowly cool down, they do not heat up much, massive, high consumption of bricks. They also arrange fast heating heating stoves, which are less massive, give off heat well, but cool down quickly.

The most common type in Russia is heating and cooking stoves. They not only heat the room, but also prepare food. In addition to a cast iron stove, they almost always have an oven. In addition, they can be built into: a boiler for water heating, a container for heating water, niches for drying, beds. A Russian oven of this type has a chamber for baking bread and pies. They differ from ordinary kitchen stoves in high efficiency, high heat capacity, keep heat for a long time, and the draft is stable.

For greater heat transfer, a heating shield is connected to ordinary kitchen stoves. This is the cheapest construction in relation to material costs and labor: it will take up to 200 bricks, it will heat small room... A very good option for small summer cottages. The stove, in addition to the heating shield, can be equipped with an oven, a water heating boiler, a tank for heating water.

Firebox - heat transfer and fuel affect the device

The simplest device is for a heating stove, which has two parts: a firebox and smoke chimneys. Other types of ovens contain additional devices. The main part of any stove is a firebox. Certain requirements are imposed on it, in particular, it must be of sufficient size: for one tab it can hold almost all the fuel. Air must be supplied in the required volume, a high temperature must be constantly maintained.

With insufficient dimensions of the firebox, low heat transfer is observed. The width depends on the required heat transfer: up to 1 thousand. kcal - 12 cm, up to 3 thousand - 27 cm, if more - up to 50 cm. For convenience, the dimensions of the firebox are taken as multiples of a brick. The length is made from 26 cm to 51 cm, the longest is for firewood. The fuel used affects the height: 6-15 rows (42-100 cm). The grate is placed a row or two below the door to prevent coals from falling out. Often the rear is tilted higher than the front for better combustion.

Fuel tanks: a - wood-burning; b - peat; c - coal.

Fireclay brick is used for the firebox, with which it is laid out or lined from the inside. The total thickness of the walls is not less than ⅟ 2 bricks. The firebox, made in the form of a vault, improves the quality of combustion. All types of fuel burns well in the wood-burning firebox. For coal, a reinforced grate with a thickness of 4 cm and a good blowing are required, for which the dimensions of the grate are equal to the length of the ash pan under the firebox.

Chimney - the advantages and disadvantages of different systems

The smoke circulation system increases the efficiency - gases, when moving from the firebox through the channels and chambers, give off heat to the walls. It is important to observe the ratio between the volume of the firebox and the inner surface of the smoke channels. With an excess of the area of ​​the gas channels, the temperature drops so much that condensate appears. Small internal area reduces efficiency - hot gases escape into the pipe.

In the best way, heat is absorbed when the ratio of the areas of the outer walls of the stove, which give off heat, and the inner part of the chimneys is 1: 3.

The section, number and location of the flue gas turns determine their internal area. It is better to fold the channels in multiples of the size of the brick, they should provide free passage of gases. The cross-section must correspond to the thermal performance of the furnace: it smokes when there is an insufficient cross-section and does not heat up well when it is excessive. A section of 170–250 cm 2 is used for heat transfer from furnaces of 3 thousand kcal and less, from 3 to 5 thousand kcal - up to 300 cm 2.

Chimneys can have channels (one or more) and be channelless.

Various types of smoke circuits: a - multiturn vertical; b - multiturn horizontal; в - single-turn vertical; d - multichannel single-turn; d - channelless.

As part of a single-turn system, one lifting channel and the same or several parallel lowering channels. Parallel channels have low resistance gases, the furnace mass is warmed up more evenly. The single-turn system has a drawback, which manifests itself in a significantly greater heating of the upper part than the lower one. V small ovens it is compensated by a significant heating of the fuel walls. For large furnaces, a scheme is used according to which hot gases flow through the channels from below, thus ensuring normal heating of the room.

A multi-turn system consists of vertical or horizontal channels in series. The first drawback of such a system is that the gases have to experience considerable resistance in numerous corners. The second drawback is the strikingly unequal heating of the walls of the first and last channels, which often causes cracking of the masonry. Vertical channels provide good heat transfer, horizontal channels - traction, which helps with the pipe of insufficient height.

Fire safety requires that the top of the stove ceiling be 40 cm from the ceiling made of combustible materials. The chimney section from the stove to cutting in the ceiling is called a neck, it lowest height- three rows of bricks. Neck - a place for installing valves or views, which are closed at the end of combustion. If these appliances are installed lower, a lot of heat is lost. The gases are thrown out through the chimney, the construction of which will be described below.

Choosing a stove - economy, heat transfer, simplicity and design

Determining the design of the furnace, take into account its ability to meet certain requirements. Important role plays an economic role when low fuel consumption provides an acceptable room temperature. Few people want to heat the stove even twice a day, so preference is given to structures that evenly give off heat over 24 hours. These include ovens that warm up well at the bottom.

The maximum surface temperature must not exceed 95 °, otherwise a burning smell will be felt. Simplicity of design, compliance with fire safety requirements also play an important role. Finally, the design of the stove must match the overall aesthetic appearance of the room.

But the most important requirement for any oven is the ability to warm up all rooms. For this, heat loss is determined based on the volume, size of windows and doors, the characteristics of the material from which the house is built. Calculations show that each m 3 of the room with brick walls at an average winter temperature of -25 °, it loses 60 kcal / h. One square meter of the oven is capable of delivering 500 kcal / h.

When calculating, we first determine the heat loss at home. Suppose you have an ordinary 7 × 9 brick dacha with a ceiling height of 2.5 m. There are 4 separate rooms in total, which are planned to be heated by one stove installed in the middle of the room. First, we determine the cubic capacity: 7 × 9 × 2.5 = 157.5. We multiply by the heat loss of one cube. meters: 157.5 × 60 = 9450. This means that a furnace with a heat transfer rate of 1000 kcal / h is needed, a certain reserve must always be made. A simpler calculation is based on the fact that one square meter of the floor area occupied by the stove heats 30–35 m 2 of the room.

Accommodation - how to determine the best location

The location of the stove is chosen by everyone at their own discretion, but, nevertheless, general recommendations should be taken into account. First of all, the stove in the house should give off maximum heat. If you plan to heat one room, the stove is installed at a short distance from the wall, at least 15 cm, but it can also be placed close to the walls. Then the heat energy will be given off by two of the four sides. In diagrams a, b, you can see the location options with air gap at the wall, which is also called a retreat.

If the stove structure will heat two adjacent rooms, then the most effective option is when it is built in a partition (the same figure, c). Heating is also possible in three adjacent rooms, as in the picture d. The stove is also located in the common room for all three rooms. In one room there is one side of the stove, on the others there are two. Figures e, f show options when the firebox is located on the veranda or in the utility room. This is a good option for small houses.

In a dwelling of four rooms, it is recommended to install the stove at the junction of two internal partitions so that one wall of the heating device exits into each of the rooms. This option provides an opportunity to heat from the kitchen, living room, veranda, without bringing garbage into the bedroom. Rough with a couch is great for a summer residence with several rooms. The lounger is taken out to any room that the owner prefers.

Foundation device - a reliable base for the furnace

After determining with the design and choosing a place, you can begin to bring the project to life. We start with the foundation, which is best done at the same time as the foundation of the building. In the case of building a stove in an already erected house, we disassemble the floor and do the filling. Put even the smallest and lightest oven on wooden floor does not make sense. In just a few years, even the thickest boards and logs begin to deteriorate, sag, and the oven will have to be rebuilt.

The size of the foundation makes the furnace larger by 30 cm in all directions.

It is imperative to make a foundation for a brick oven. It should not come into contact with the foundation of the walls, we provide a gap of at least 5 cm between them.Fill the space between the two foundations thermal insulation material... Separate foundations will provide independent upsetting of the building walls and oven. If you connect both foundations, this often leads to distortion.

So that less heat from the stove goes into the ground, we put heat insulation on top of the concrete. It can be as follows: first, a slab of mineral fiber or basalt insulation, then a choice of foil, tin. Insulation is again on top, sheet metal on top. We soak the felt in clay milk and crown it with a layer of insulation. When it dries up, start laying. Such reliable thermal insulation protects against heat loss even in the most severe conditions.

Clay mortar for masonry - cooking secrets

Brick ovens are laid out on a clay-sand mortar. Clay has unique properties, turning into stone after exposure to fire, adheres perfectly to brick. To achieve maximum qualities from it, the solution should be prepared from pre-prepared ingredients with an optimal ratio.

First, we remove impurities from the clay. Grind and place in an oblong container, concentrating only at one end. Raise the part of the container where the clay is a little, pour a little water from the bottom. Gradually take the clay with a spatula and mix with water until a homogeneous paste-like substance is formed. We transfer it to another dish until the required volume of solution is collected.

We soak the purchased dry clay in a wide and deep bowl. We fall asleep 10–20 cm, cover completely with water. Stir after a day, add water if necessary and leave again for a day. When a paste-like mixture is obtained, the oven solution is considered ready. For strength, add a little salt to the solution: up to 250 g per bucket. The mass should slide off the trowel without traces. Water should not appear on the surface of the solution, if this happens, we add washed sand to the solution.

For 50 pieces of bricks laid flat, you will need a bucket of mortar with a joint thickness of 3-5 mm.

The solution must be of the required plasticity and fat content. To determine the quality of the solution, take the clay in five equal portions. Add to four different amount sand: 0.25, 0.5, 1, 1.5, and leave the fifth without adding sand. We knead the solution from each part, make pancakes from them and dry them. We determine the quality by touch and by appearance. If the pancake crumbles, there is excess sand in it, there is little of it in the cracked pancake. If the sample does not crack and is homogeneous, it has an optimal ratio of constituent parts. It is in this proportion that we prepare the solution.

In the laying of brick ovens with your own hands there are many secrets that only know experienced craftsmen, and unknown to beginners. First of all, this concerns the choice of bricks. Ceramic bricks of the grade not lower than M-250 are used, which are more expensive than the usual M-100, M-150, but more homogeneous, capable of withstanding constant heating and cooling. You can make decorative elements from it, ordinary brick is of little use for this.

The inner walls of the firebox are lined with refractory bricks that can withstand 1200 °. But behind it is a ceramic brick that can only withstand 650 °. When the firebox is very hot, the temperature is transferred to it, shortening its service life. To extend the life of the red brick in the firebox, it is insulated from refractory basalt with 5 mm cardboard.

It takes a lot of time to control the mortar on the facing row. To make the work go faster, masking tape is glued to the front of the brick, which is then removed. The facing row comes out nice and neat. Experienced stove-makers advise not to bother with preparing a clay-sand mortar, but to buy a ready-made sand mixture for ovens. It is packaged in 5, 10 and 25 kg.

It is more convenient to lay out any jumper, overcoat and other elements if you use a metal corner. It is laid out from the inside, pressing the brick on both sides. The length of the corner should not exceed 0.8 m, otherwise it may sag from heating. Avoid using front corners. In addition to being ugly, there is a high probability of getting burned if accidentally touched. Instead of corners on the front side, 16 mm threaded studs are used, which fix the front finish.

You can extend the life of the oven if you hide all the fittings in grooves with a depth equal to the thickness of the products.

Every stove-maker strives to lay out a row with a perfectly even seam, but not everyone succeeds. There is a simple technique: 8 mm metal rods are laid on each row, preferably rectangular ones. A mortar is laid between two rods, then bricks. When the last brick is laid, the rods are removed. Bricks must not be upset, otherwise the masonry will go in waves. The rods are lubricated with machine oil before use to make it easier to remove them from the masonry. Their length should not exceed 1 m, otherwise the masonry will be damaged when they are pulled out.

Chimney - how to ensure safety and good draft

On the stove in the house, a packing pipe is usually installed, which consists of a neck, a fluff at the ceiling, a riser in the attic, an otter at the roof and a head. The fluff protects wooden crafts ceiling and roof from heating and possible combustion during the firebox. In these places, the pipe is made thickened, gradually letting in bricks. Metal can be used to support the brick rows, but these should not overlap the interior of the chimney.

At the place where the riser passes through the roof, an otter is made, which will not allow rain and snow to penetrate into the attic through the cracks. They are covered with roofing steel - a collar, the ends of which are run under the otter protrusions. The chimney is crowned with a head. Its height is determined by its location on the roof. In the middle of the ridge and at a distance of no more than 1.5 m from it, it should protrude 0.5 m above the ridge. At a distance of up to 3 m from the ridge, the top of the head is leveled with the ridge. At greater distances, ensure the height at an angle of no more than 10 ° in relation to the ridge.

The chimney is designed to provide good traction... It rises with an increase in the temperature of the outgoing gases, but it is not economically feasible to do this, so the pipe is driven to the required height, which should be 5–6 m from the grate to the top of the head. The plaster inner surface also increases traction, there are no gaps in brickwork... To eliminate the influence of the wind, which can interfere with traction, a deflector is installed on the head.

Shvedka - the best option for a heating and cooking oven

The design has been proven for centuries, small and economical. With dimensions of 880 × 1010 mm and a height of 2170 mm, it is capable of heating more than 30 m 2. Typically, a firebox with a stove is located in the kitchen, and the back wall of the stove opens into the living area. It works great on wood, coal and briquettes. In summer, it is recommended to heat with small portions of coarse coal or pellets, firewood burns too quickly in hot weather. Coal consumption in heating season 1.5 tons.

We stock up for construction:

• brick M-150 - 570 pieces;
• 200 kg of dry mortar;
• 1.7 m of steel angle 40 × 40;
• 0.65 m steel strip 5 × 50;
• roofing iron for installation in front of the firebox;
• flat slate to cover the cooking chamber.

You will need standard appliances for the stove: grate, firebox door, blower, cast-iron stove with burners, valves - 2, cleaners - 3. The order of a Swedish stove with a hob is presented below.

Important structural element is an oven that plays the role of an automatic switch between summer and winter running. It works as an aerodynamic barrier for gases escaping from the firebox. The gases are retained in it, completely burning out under the hob. They come out hot into the smoke circulation channels, they warm up the stove well. For this reason, the wall farthest from the firebox is sometimes made double and a heat exchanger with a hot water tank is placed in it.

Excessive heating of the hob is not observed, hot air from the niche goes into the room. In the summer, the kitchen, with the correct firebox, heats up no more than from gas stove... Fuel in small quantities warms up well in summer hob as the gases are trapped in the oven. The hotplate on the left heats up more, on the right less, but enough for cooking.

Hollandka - a small-sized furnace device with high heat transfer

This is a unique, simple structure of colossal efficiency. Compared to the classic Russian stove, it has more modest dimensions and a smaller wall thickness, which contributes to rapid heating. Even the owners of stylish modern cottages she attracts with her grace and efficiency. When laying a Dutch stove, any variations are possible, which will not negatively affect its efficiency.

This is a purely heating stove, but, if desired, it can be equipped with a hob. The smallest structure is 0.5 × 0.5 m, for the most massive one will need only 650 bricks, including 200 refractory bricks. The main material is brick of any quality, which does not affect its stability and functionality. But for the firebox, it is imperative to use refractory bricks. It warms up quickly, cools down slowly, fuel is consumed economically. The Dutch woman is capable of heating up to 70 m 2.

As can be seen from the diagram, the Dutch stove does not have a grate, the fuel is loaded into the furnace, and the combustion intensity is low. Efficiency is achieved due to a special smoke circulation device. Gases from the firebox rise through the first channel and return back through the second channel. There they heat up again and go into the third channel. In the fourth and fifth channels, the same principle is repeated, and only through the sixth channel gases go into the chimney.

Hello, in today's article we will describe in detail the scheme and sequence of masonry of the simplest oven I know, measuring 890x510x770 mm. If you have never dealt with practical side masonry ovens, but if you want to start somewhere, then this oven is suitable for these purposes in the best way, or choose one of ... If the requirements described below are met, it is not realistic to make a mistake in something this-time, the stove will have 100% good draft-two, the stove will not smoke-three. In addition, it is so small and lechka in the design that if mistakes are made (for example, a too greasy clay solution, or an incorrect calculation of the strength of the floor in the absence of a foundation, which can lead to the mobility of the furnace and further deformation), it can always be sorted out over a new one in 2-3 hours work. In general, anyone armed only with a general can practice on this stove. no practical experience.

In general, the features of this stove include a low efficiency below 75%, a low heat transfer of 700 kcal / hour caused by a small furnace volume (only 118 bricks), a low weight of about 540 kg, the presence of a two-burner cast-iron stove and 1 cleaning door.

So, for laying a simple kitchen stove, we need:

1. solid ceramic brick grade> М100 -118 pieces;
2. clay-sand mortar - about 80 kg
3. grate grate 180x250mm-1 piece;
4. furnace door-250x180 mm - 1 piece;
5. blower and cleaning door measuring 140x130 mm each - 1 piece;
6. cast iron stove with 2 burners 720x410 mm or similar - 1 piece;
7. gate valve 130x130 mm - 1 piece;
8. felt, steel tape, corners as required according to the drawing.

The sequence of laying a simple brick kitchen stove

As a basis for this stove, the slab is allowed, with a strong field, to lay out 1-2 layers of a felt impregnated with a clay solution on top of a sheet of any steel, all this is fastened with self-tapping screws. A separate foundation is not required.

1st row simple solid brickwork

2nd row The same as in the 1st row, when laying, we observe the dressing of the seams parallel to the diagonal and corners.

3rd row We spread the blower and install the door 140x130 mm, fix it on the sides with 3/4 bricks.

4th row On the left side we lay out a channel of 140 mm, from which the flue gases are directed into a pipe or a heating shield. We install a cleaning door opposite the channel.

5th row Laying as well as 4th row. We close the blower door, thus a 260x260 mm hole is formed for the installation of the grate.

6th row The smoke channel is narrowed to 260x260 mm, the blower is up to 200 mm - this is slightly more than the width of the grate.

7th row We continue to narrow the smoke channel to 260x130 mm. We do everything according to the drawing; bricks in contact with the grate must be hewn out on the diagram, this is indicated by strokes, the side bricks will have to be pressed into the masonry a little closer to the grate.

8th row We get the size of the firebox 520x260 mm. We install the furnace door

9th and 10th rows In accordance with the order, we observe the dressing of the seams.

11th row Install the cast iron pit on a weak earthen solution. For greater strength, we tie the brick around the perimeter with a frame from a corner measuring 30x30x4 mm

At the end, we remove the remnants of the clay solution (snot) through the cleaning door, and dry it with the doors open for 1-2 weeks after which we are present at the firebox, first with a partial one (torch, birch bark) and then with a full one. We also advise you to familiarize yourself with the drawings and others. and .

If in the process of reading you have any questions, write in the comments, we will write it down.

Do-it-yourself oven, drawings, videos that you watch will help you get an idea of ​​how a three-channel heating kitchen brick oven is made.

Consider the order of the oven, which we will do with our own hands:
First

Second

We install a blower door with a size of 130x140 (mm)

Third

Fourth

Instead of cast-iron doors for cleaning channels, we will install two halves of a brick on the edge.

Fifth

Sixth

We lay the grate 370x240 (mm). To install it, we cut a niche in the bricks so that there is a one centimeter gap around the grate perimeter.

Seventh

We cut two bricks at an angle of forty-five degrees towards the grate to roll the coals into the firebox.
We install the first smoke damper, which, when open, provides summer mode ovens.
We will install a furnace door with a size of 250x180 (mm).

Eighth

Ninth

Tenth

We will grind the edges of the brick in the form of an oval, for better passage of gases with the least resistance.

To clean the channels, place half a brick on the edge.

Eleventh

Let's cut grooves in bricks for installing a 300x720 (mm) kitchen stove.

Twelfth

Thirteenth

Fourteenth

Likewise, the twelfth.

Fifteenth

Let's grind off the edges of the brick in the shape of an oval.

Sixteenth

Seventeenth

Eighteenth

Nineteenth

We install the second smoke damper.
Twentieth, ordering as in the eighteenth.

Twenty first

In addition, you can watch a video for a complete perception of the masonry process

So, you can assemble an inexpensive oven with your own hands.

The device and diagrams of ovens for the home

1.Scheme of masonry heating stove from two tiers
2. Laying a square stove with bottom heating
3. Schemes of ovens for a house with a predominant bottom heating
4. The brickwork of the furnace, developed by V.

Grum-Grzhimailo
5. Bricklaying of the stove, created by the Thermal Engineering Institute

Conventionally, heating stoves can be divided into two categories: modern devices and outdated designs. Instead of imperfect heating units used for a long time, manufacturing companies produce improved models of heating devices based on the latest technologies.

But in private households and suburban country buildings heating brick stoves are still widely used, and the schemes of stoves for the home are very diverse.

Unfortunately, from year to year, less and less experienced stove-makers able to repair or alter them.

Nowadays, classic wood-burning stoves for houses, which have characteristic advantages, are not used to heat rooms, but to make the interior unique and distinctive.

Layout of the heating stove masonry from two tiers

The device of bunk heating stoves, shown in the photo, is a structure of two parts, located one on top of the other.

The parameters of each of them are 165x51x238 centimeters. The heat transfer from the bottom of the furnace is 3200 kcal / hour, and the top is 2600 kcal / hour.

In furnaces for private households, brick lining with voids is provided in order to lighten the weight of the structure and save material consumption. Both parts of the bunk ovens have exactly the same design.

In such heating units, a channelless smoke circulation system is used. According to the layout of the stove, gases from the firebox enter the upper bell with a nozzle. After cooling down, the gases go down and, at the location of the bottom of the firebox, they go through the roll-up into the stacked chimney.
At the lower furnace, the chimney passes through the upper half of the structure. For this reason, the latter has a smaller heating surface.

The upper part of the structure has a separate chimney.

The device of a two-tier heating furnace is distinguished by the simplicity of laying bricks, and the gas movement scheme is simple. The lower half of the unit is cleaned through a door located in the rear wall, and for the upper part, such a door is located in the side wall (in more detail: "Heating stoves for the house - do-it-yourself masonry").

For the functioning of the heating structure, coal or anthracite is used. The pipes for both parts are equipped with two smoke dampers.

Usually, the upper part of the voids in bunk heating furnaces is covered with solid reinforced concrete slabs, which contributes to the strength and stability of the entire structural mass.

The laying of such stoves must be carried out at a high professional level, since their alteration or repair is not an easy task (read: "How to repair a brick stove with your own hands").

Carefully lay out the chimney for the lower part of the heating two-tier structure.
If leaks are allowed in the masonry, the wall separating both pipes in the upper part will allow heat to pass even if the two smoke dampers are closed.

If desired, you can combine into a single array different types ovens having a rectangular or square shape and functioning on different types fuel.

Diy oven laying schemes

Masonry of a square stove with bottom heating

The stove in the photo is distinguished by a combined or mixed system of smoke circulation. The parameters of this design are 102x102x238 centimeters. Its heat transfer is equal to 4200 kcal / hour.

Device heating furnaces a square shape with bottom heating suggests that the firebox in it has a relatively large height.

Arranged symmetrically on both sides side holes(2 pieces each) are used to drain gas into the chambers. They are located in the outer side walls of the structure.

The gas is then lowered through chambers connected by a channel under the firebox behind the ash compartment.

From the side chambers, gases enter the risers through the lower rolls and go up through them.

There, the side chambers all together form the so-called upper dome, which consists of three U-shaped cavities. These cavities are located in parallel. The heated gases are retained in the upper part of the middle and rear of them, and the already cooled waste products pass through the holes into the front plane, which at the top is connected to the stacked chimney and escapes into the atmosphere. See also: "Heating stoves for mining."

Consequently, the schemes of furnaces for a square-shaped house with a bottom heating have 3 hoods - an upper hood and 2 large chambers.

Any type of solid fuel can be used in such a heating structure.
If it is planned that the stove will operate on coal or anthracite, the walls of the firebox should be laid out exclusively from refractory bricks.

Furnace schemes for a house with predominant bottom heating

If the heating structure has a predominant bottom heating, its size, as a rule, is 115x56x231 centimeters with a heat transfer rate of 2640 kcal / hour.

In accordance with the smoke circulation system, this stove is classified as a combined channel heating unit with bottom heating.

When a scheme for stove heating of a private house is created using such a design, it is understood that flue gases will first descend from the firebox, and then rise up the riser to the ceiling (see also: "Kuznetsov's heating stoves: do-it-yourself drawings and ordering").

From there, along two parallel passages, they will go down to the 16th row of brickwork, and then go to the last of the risers, which turns into the chimney.

The above design is different rational decision and simplicity, since it can provide good heating of the furnace in its lower part and it has self-regulation of gas movement in both channels located in the upper part, which acts as a bell with a nozzle.
The principle of operation of the structure allows air to pass through the bottom of the hood and at the same time it does not cool down.

The brickwork of this stove is simple to implement and it can be built in the partition of the room in such a way that the fuel door and the front wall will go out into the corridor.

The unit can be operated on coal and wood.

Furnace masonry, designed by V. Grum-Grzhimailo

Shown in the photo, a channelless scheme for laying a heating stove was developed by Professor V.

Grum-Grzhimailo. There is no smoke circulation in this heating structure. It has a rounded shape and is housed in a case made of sheet steel. The gases move in the furnace not due to the draft created by the chimney, but due to the force of gravity. As a result, cooled and heavier gases descend to the bottom, and hot light ones rise to the top.

This device of a stove for a house consists of two parts - a firebox is located at the bottom.

In its ceiling there is a small hail (mouth), which ensures the passage of flue gases to the upper part, which is a chamber without smoke circulation.
It looks like an overturned cap, shaped like a glass.

Due to this feature, such heating structures are called channelless or bell-type.

The heated gases in them do not enter their mouths into the chimney, since they first go up under the ceiling, and when they cool down, they descend along the walls to the base.

From here they enter the chimney and, under the influence of the draft, are carried away into the atmosphere. One vertical cut is located across the firebox, and the second horizontal cut along it.

Along the walls of the structure, from the ceiling in the direction of the vault, there are buttresses designed to increase the internal surface of heat absorption and for better heat absorption by the brick mass from the exhaust gases.

The fins heated by gases allow the stove to retain heat for a longer time.

The efficiency of the structure developed by Grum-Grzhimailo reaches 80%. The iron case allows you to carry out masonry with a thickness of only a quarter of a brick, moreover, the unit heats up quickly enough. See also: "Which brick oven for the house is better - types, advantages and disadvantages."

The creation of this oven is not difficult.

Its advantages are as follows:

- in the event that the smoke damper on the chimney is not closed tightly, the upper part of the device will not cool from cold air entering the firebox.

Air entering the fuel compartment through the slots in the ash pan and fuel door rises through the mouth. But since it is heavier than the hot gases in the bell, it immediately overflows into the side channels and goes into the chimney. As a result, the entire part under the high is not cooled.

As for the disadvantages of the scheme of stoves for a house of this design, the main one is the predominant heating of the upper part. To slightly level this minus, it is necessary to arrange holes in the walls of the firebox in the 5th row of brickwork.

The stove functions perfectly on lean coal and anthracite. If the unit is heated with wood, especially damp wood, the gaps between the buttresses will be clogged with soot. It will be quite difficult to clean them, since the cleaning doors are located in the 8th row, which does not allow to completely get into all the gaps of the buttresses and then the smoke will enter the main pipe.

Channelless structures, created on the principle of free movement of gases, are made rectangular or square.

They are performed either in a metal case or without it. In the second case, the walls of the hood should be made thicker up to half a brick. See also: "Brick shield for a metal oven."

Furnace masonry, created by the Thermal Engineering Institute

Furnace schemes for the home, developed at the Thermal Engineering Institute by engineer Kovalevsky, have a size of 100x85x217 centimeters.

They use a mine-type firebox designed for the use of coal.

Through the channel, flue gases enter under the ceiling, from where they enter two side channels. Then they follow to the very bottom and move along the collecting channel into the smoke stack. If the smoke damper is open, then the gases are vented to the atmosphere.
The peculiarity of the furnace arrangement scheme lies in the different thickness of the walls of the smoke circulation channels.

The first of them, coming from the firebox, is called the fire channel. It has a 3/4 brick outer wall. The rest of its walls are placed in half a brick.

This heating structure does not fit into an iron casing. Its masonry is simple.

The efficiency of the furnace of engineer Kovalevsky is 75-80%. The disadvantage of the heating unit is the possibility of overheating its upper part, since the hottest gases are sent to it. Down the oven, they will fall completely cooled, as a result of which the degree of heating of the lower part is insufficient.

A certain amount of gases from the firebox enters the side channels through the screws, which increases the heating of the lower part of the outer walls (read also: "Gas stove for the house - comfortable heating").

Smoke systems are freed from soot deposits by cleaning them. The grate can be pulled out and thereby facilitate the maintenance of the combustion chamber by draining slag into an ash pan or a steel box located under the grate. Smoke in the structure is discharged into a casing pipe.

To date, these brick ovens are preferred by owners. country houses and suburban buildings.

In the struggle to save fuel, and therefore money, improved designs began to appear.

There are now a considerable number of different types new heating devices, which you can also pay attention to.

An interesting diagram of a stove for a home is shown in the video:

Furnace masonry

First we lay out the bricks of the first row without mortar, taking into account the seam according to the order. Having determined the position of the corner bricks, we put them on the mortar, using a level, checking the horizontal position. With light blows from a mallet, we upset the protruding bricks. Having achieved horizontality, we fill the perimeter of the first row with bricks and mortar, controlling the masonry with a level.

Using a tape measure, we check the dimensions of the oven in plan and diagonal. The diagonals in the rectangle must be equal. If the diagonals are not equal, then we knock out the corner bricks until we achieve their equality, thereby obtaining the parallelism of the sides of the perimeter. After that, we lay the middle of the first row with a brick on a mortar.

Having laid the first row, we put the corner bricks of the second row, controlling the verticality of the corners using a level or plumb line. Similarly to the first row, we first lay out the perimeter, and then the middle of the second row according to the order.

Having laid out the second row, we hammer in the corners into the seam between the first and second row nails 80-100mm long.

Then we lower the plumb line alternately at all corners of the second row and mark the points on the ceiling from which the plumb line is lowered.

Then we hammer the same nails into these points, tie the nylon cord to the corresponding nails and pull it.

We check the verticality of the cords with a plumb line. If there are deviations, then we eliminate them by bending the upper nails. Thus, the contour of the furnace is obtained in space. We carry out the laying of subsequent rows, controlling the verticality of the corners along the cords, which significantly reduces the time required for control.

We put the subsequent rows in the same way as the first two, checking each row with the order.

In the course of masonry, we clean the inner and outer surfaces of the excess of the squeezed out solution with a trowel. After laying out every 4-5 rows, wipe the walls of the chimneys with a wet rag.

The thickness of the seam of the oven masonry should be as thin as possible.

How to fold a brick oven with your own hands

In thick seams, the mortar crumbles and the masonry becomes fragile. The mortar should fill the seam tightly, squeezing out of it. During laying, we observe the rule of binding bricks. Each vertical seam should be covered with bricks from the next top row.

Typically, such a seam runs in the middle of the brick lying above. This, however, is not always possible to achieve. In some places it is necessary to lay bricks so that the overlap is less than half the length of the brick. In any case, it should be at least a quarter of the brick length.

It is better to lay out the firebox of the furnace from fireclay bricks, because

it can withstand higher temperatures. Ligation of seams of fireclay and oven bricks not desirable due to different linear expansion coefficients.

Therefore, either a whole row is laid out of fireclay bricks, or the firebox is lined on the edge. Between the lining and fireclay bricks leave a gap of at least 5 mm.

Installation of cleaning and blowing doors

Before installing the door, we check for the tightness of the canvas to the frame, free rotation of the canvas in the hinges, the absence of distortions, the possibility of fixing their closure and the presence of holes for fastening in the masonry.

We eliminate any defects found before installation or replace the door.

We insert a knitting wire 50-60 cm long into the openings of the doors, fold it in half and twist it.

Apply mortar to the brickwork at the door installation site. We install the door, check the verticality and horizontalness and fix it with bricks.

Then we put the ends of the wire into the seams of the masonry.

Installing the grate

When installing stove appliances, it must be remembered that cast iron and brick do not expand equally when heated.

This is especially true for the behavior of devices installed in a high temperature zone. If they are tightly walled up in the oven masonry, then when heated, the cast iron will tear the masonry. Therefore, the grate, furnace door and stove should be installed with gaps. We lay the grate without mortar with a gap of at least 5 mm on all sides. It should be freely removed for replacement in case of burnout or breakage.

Installing the firebox

The combustion door is installed in the same way as the blower door, only it is wrapped in asbestos to fill the temperature gap.

We check the verticality and horizontalness of the door and fix it with bricks and boards.

If the oven is used intensively, the wire may burn out. To prevent this, the upper part of the door can be secured with a clamp. The clamp is made of strip steel with a section of 25x2.0 mm. The ears should protrude from the door frame by 100-120 mm.

The clamp is attached to the door using rivets or bolts with nuts.

The door is closed by hanging half a brick on each side

or brick in the castle.

For an opening larger than 250 mm, the overlap is made with a wedge lintel.

Installing the stove

The row on which it will be installed, we lay out the plate first without mortar.

We put the plate on top and outline its location. Then we select a groove in the brick, taking into account a temperature gap of 5 mm in all directions from the slab. We spread the brick on the mortar. We fill the groove with a solution, put an asbestos cord in it along the perimeter of the slab, lower the slab into place and upset it with a mallet, making it horizontal in level.

Installing the oven

The oven is also wrapped with asbestos around the perimeter and half a brick wide.

The side of the oven facing the firebox is laid out with a brick on the edge, and on top it is covered with a layer of solution of 25-30 mm to prevent the oven walls from burning out.

Laying of arches and vaults

When laying stoves, it is often necessary to close various furnace openings, fireboxes and all kinds of chambers, using simple and complex shape... The overlap in the wall is called an arch, and the overlap between the walls is called a vault.

The number of bricks in the arch and rows in the arch must be odd. The middle odd brick is a castle brick.

Any jumper begins with the laying of heels, which are performed according to the template. Since the height of an arch or vault is different, the angle of the heel also changes.

You cannot use one heel shape for all arches and vaults.

These photos show the installation of the circle and the laying of the arched ceiling of the barbecue firebox.

And the following photos show the laying of the vault to cover the niche for firewood.

They say that it is better to see once than read 100 times, so especially for you, I have prepared a video guide "Do-it-yourself ovens", which shows all the nuances of laying a brick oven in video format.

I define the basic rules for laying the stove, which may not even be known to the stove journalist or to the person who decided to turn on the stove:

The weight of the oven with the pipe installed without a base must not exceed 750 kg.

This is about 0.5 m of walls or 200 bricks.
If you lay the base of the stove, you should check the possibility of switching the chimney between load-bearing beams in the attic and tiled.
The base of the stove should not be tied to the base of the house, and the structure of the stove must not be covered by the supporting structures of the building.

You can let them sit at the cut and swelling sites. This is done in order to avoid damage to the slab in the event of unequal settlement of the house.
Wooden elements houses and smoke should be at least a quarter of a meter.
If the oven is not to be closed, the water for the wall mortar must be potable or rain water without salt, otherwise all the salt on the brick surface will appear as a white coating.
The mortar sand should be used by the quarry (not the river) because the river sand particles have a rounded surface which makes the mortar brittle.
Stove and fireplace - brick column on clay mortar.

And even the smallest heels or side impacts load-bearing structures home cracks form, which can cause a fire.

What to look for when making brick bricks

Protect yourself and make sure that the oven lasts as long as possible - this is the main task of building a solid base, horizontal wall and verticality of the massage itself.

Therefore, after laying the foundation, the upper platform must be carefully planned. A layer of roofing felt is applied to it, 1-2 cm of sand is poured from above and leveled, and the first colorless brick is placed. Repair the gasket and press the hammer on the protruding bricks. The horizontalness of each line is checked using the level specified in the rule. The squareness of the first line is checked by comparing the length of the diagonal.

As you place each line, check for flatness using a rule on the wall. After installing the two types, in order to ensure that the furnace box is vertical, you need to pull out strings with a thickness of 1-3 mm at the corners of the wall.

The ceiling attachment points are defined by the tow line. Above, the water line descends so that the weight drops to the top of the outside corner of the oven. On the floor on the ceiling, from which the groove descends, the nail tilts, a rope is attached to it. At the lower end, the second nail is tied and pulls the rope, insert the nail under the corner brick of the first row so that the cable is strictly stretched along the corner.

Then the vertical line of the rope is exposed to the action of the tray, which bends the top nail in the desired direction. So repeat all four corners.
The seams should be 5 mm thick. To do this, place the strips for laying around the edges of the joint, spread the mortar, place the brick and place it in place with a kick from the handle. Remove the spacers after the solution has dried.
External walls should not have more than two types without stitching, otherwise cracks may occur.
The proportion of bricks can be obtained with the help of the Bulgarian, and the wall should be kept to a minimum, as the brick is more susceptible to collapse.
Parts of the cigarettes are located side by side in the seams.
In the area that changes the direction of the flow of the smoky bottom, the door is always defined as a cleaning hole, or better "brick pushing" that extends 5-10 mm from the wall is easier to understand than necessary cleaning chimney.
The gasket should be planned so that the brick does not rely solely on the doorframe or oven, but is locked over them or made with a wedge-shaped lock or vaulted roof.

This is done to facilitate the replacement of unsuccessful furnace equipment.
Clamps (narrow metal profiles) as well as other steel parts should be used less as metal takes longer to heat up than clay and can no longer break from this coupling. To avoid this, place the steel strips loosely, without mortar, or wrapped in a layer of asbestos.

The oven door, including the oven, is positioned so that it can be heated without touching the wall. If you want to do this, you can use 5 mm asbestos that you come into contact with in the vineyard.
The grate and cast iron plate are placed with a minimum pitch of 5 mm on all sides so that they can be easily removed for replacement.

Place them without mortar (you can place the plate on the asbestos or asbestos layer) and fill the slots with sand.
The grates should be placed in the firebox under the smoke of smoke up to 70-150 mm, so as not to fall out when the coal door is opened and laid along the grooves of the firebox, and the ash will be difficult to clear when preparing the stove for subsequent ignition.
Doors and corners must be fixed to the wall, which is screwed into the holes and steel wire with two-core wires.

At the other ends of the twist, past the nail and pull the wire, hold it in the nearest vertical seam.
The space between the oven and the side of the oven should be covered with bricks.
The length of the chimney, regardless of the chimney frame, should not exceed 7 m, otherwise the sediment will be insufficient and smoke will occur in the chimney.
The walls of the chimneys must be flat and level.

The vertical channels do not get to the solution in the chicken inside the oven, and the foam plug is wrapped in a damp cloth and suspended inside the chimney by a wire.

Remove and clean it periodically, make canopy out of the canal with a damp cloth.
For fire safety the distance from the ceiling of the oven to the ceiling must be at least 35 cm.
For the same purpose, the overlap must consist of at least three types of continuous blocks.
Place a metal heating sheet to protect the floor under the stove's fireplace.
The approximate ratio of the size of the fireplace inlet to the surface of the heated area is 1:70.
Area ratio cross section a rectangular pipe at a height of 5 m to the fireplace entrance area should be about 13%, a chimney height of 10 m - about 10%.
In case of prevailing wind, a fire must be installed (or, as you call it, a smoke chamber, an umbrella on a pipe, a cap on a pipe).

Protects the oven from smoking in windy conditions and protects it when it rains. Tags:

Knowledge, Domostroy

Heating stoves made of bricks

Since ancient times, brick has been used to build a furnace. Thanks to modern technologies, it has become possible to use other building materials for these purposes.

Despite this, brick remained in the leading position among all masonry materials; brick heating ovens are in great demand.

Many people build stoves for the house on their own, since this process simple enough.

To build a brick oven with your own hands, you need to have a little understanding of construction. It will not be difficult to install such a stove, since it does not require further cladding. (See also: Brick sauna stove)

Such work requires a small number of tools, namely:

• Capacity for solution preparation.
• Emery tool.
• Construction pencil.
• Pliers.

Types of brick ovens

Currently, there are certain types of brick heating stoves, some of which are intended for heating homes, others for cooking tasty and healthy homemade food, and still others perform only decorative functions.

There are also known models that perform several functions at once, these include a brick heating and cooking stove. This type of oven is also called "Swede", and in some areas they are called "Dutch".

Fireplace stoves are no less famous.

In this case, opinions different people are separated. Some people think that the fireplace should be separate, others are quite satisfied with the built-in stove.

The second option is the most economical in terms of space and use. Supplies... Such an oven heats up the room quickly enough. In addition, a brick mini-oven with your own hands does not require much knowledge and skills in construction.

This means that it can become a decoration for absolutely any home.

A brick brazier oven is a simple device, although it looks quite complicated. This stove can be used as an alternative to an ordinary barbecue.

Therefore, its construction in the yard of your own house will not be difficult. (See also: Brick stoves for summer cottages)

It is important to remember: the orders of brick ovens belonging to a particular type are strikingly different from each other.

Requirements for ovens

Most of the sites that are dedicated to this topic set themselves the task of selling already finished project ovens. And what about people who decide to build a stove on their own, but they do not have enough experience and knowledge to create projects of brick heating stoves.

To make your job much easier, you need to understand what the requirements are for modern brick ovens.

It is worth noting that these parameters are used by professional architects when drafting projects of absolutely all types of brick ovens. The list of requirements includes: (See also: DIY oven construction)

1. Profitability.
2. The ability to keep warm for a long time.
3. Compliance with fire safety standards.
4. Good heating of the entire oven volume.
5. Easy to operate.
6. Serviceability.
7. Durability.
8. Beautiful design.

Preparing for the construction of the furnace: determining the location

The laying of brick heating stoves begins with determining its location, based on their purpose.

It is best to place the heating stove in the center of the house, since if at least one side of it adjoins the wall facing the street, its efficiency will be lost. In addition, unwanted temperature changes may occur, which negatively affect the life of the hearth. And also on the efficiency of the chimney.

The combination oven should be located in the same way as the heating one.

The only condition is that the brick fireboxes face the kitchen. A fireplace stove should be located in the living room as a fireplace.

Preparation of the solution

Next, you need to make a cement mortar. To prepare it, the clay is filled with water. Moreover, it must be sifted in advance, without stones. This will make the masonry more durable. (See also: Brick oven for a summer residence)

Important: a properly prepared clay solution is a guarantee of the stove's durability.

The soaked clay is mixed with the same amount of sand.

After that, water is poured into the container, the volume of which is equal to ¼ of the volume of clay. The solution must be thoroughly mixed so that there is not a single lump. The mortar must have a liquid consistency, so that when pressed on the brick, it squeezes out of the seam.

Dry masonry

Before you start laying bricks on the mortar, it is recommended to make dry masonry.

ATTENTION: in no case is it allowed to take measurements by eye, as this can lead to a disastrous result.

To keep right direction when laying, it is necessary to check its verticality, the dressing of the seams, the internal structure, the correctness of the seams and the horizontal laying. (See also: How to lay the stove)

Furnace erection

Before using the brick, it is immersed in water for a few seconds. As a result, it will not absorb the moisture that the clay gives off.

When laying a brick, it is necessary to press it as hard as possible so that the mortar is squeezed out strongly.

Thus, a more durable construction can be achieved.Small-sized brick heating stoves require compliance with the thickness of the mortar due to their design features. It should be at least 3 and no more than 5 millimeters.

The excess solution is removed with a trowel, this will save it.

The oven door is secured with wire.

If this is neglected, play can form, which will lead to the door falling out. For a more secure fastening, the wire is inserted into the box and twisted in half. After that, you need to make a cut in the upper edge of the brick bar, into which the wire will be inserted.

Important: the connectors must line up with the door frame.

Even one millimeter gap should not be allowed to form.

At the end of the masonry, you need to dry the oven. To do this, you need to open all windows and doors. The oven will completely dry out only after 15 days. The fact that the stove is ready for use is evidenced by the disappearance of all damp traces.

Detailed instructions for laying a brick stove

After determining the place, the first row is placed, on which a sheet of thick plastic film, roofing material or waterproofing material is subsequently laid.

This is necessary for the waterproofing device. The size of the site should be 780 by 350 millimeters. After that, sand is sifted, which is then poured into a layer of one centimeter. To avoid the formation of protrusions, the platform is carefully leveled. The check is carried out by the building level.

In order not to be mistaken with the constructed structure, dry masonry is also checked by the building level. On this, the most important row can be considered ready.

After that, the entire surface is filled with a thin layer of mortar and a blower door is placed, which must be wrapped with asbestos cardboard and cords made of the same material.

The door is secured with annealed wire, after which you can prepare for the formation of the next row.

The third row must be laid out of fireclay bricks, which are painted yellow.

The grate is laid on the same row. The fourth row is laid on the edge. Also at this stage it is necessary to make special supports inside the chimney. It should be noted that the bricks back wall put without using a solution.

Due to the fact that this space is made for wells, which are called areas for cleaning the furnace from soot, they are called knockout.

A little later, the furnace door is installed.

So that it can open from bottom to top, it is wrapped with an asbestos cord, and then fixed with wire. For some time it is propped up with bricks. So that it is installed strictly vertically.

The back wall is made with two bricks placed on the edge.

And already from the next row, the layer is laid out, starting with three fours.

Scheme and laying of brick ovens

This will allow the sutures to be bridged more firmly.

On the eighth row, the beveled brick is installed, which acts as a smoke tooth. Row 9 needs to be pushed back a little to provide support when opening the door. Before installing the hob, an asbestos cord is installed, which is pre-soaked in water. From the same row, a chimney is formed, which should expand into the fuel chamber.

This is done in order to prevent the passage of smoke into the room. At the very end, a chimney is mounted, which must be docked with metal pipe... If it moves to the side, an overlap of three rows of bricks is required.

At the end of the work, the inside of the stove is cleaned from clay and water through the knockout brick.

On the hob put a piece cut from polyethylene material. This is done in order to avoid the appearance of yellowness in the future. This completes the brick oven with the stove. We must not forget that it will be possible to use it only after it is completely dry.

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Drawings of the stove for a brick bath

Drawings of a brick bath stove of a simple and compact design, which is used to generate steam and heat water.

The figure shows the construction of a brick oven, in section along two sections.

How order drawings help lay out brick ovens for the home

1. Red oven brick laying.
2. Refractory (fireclay) brick laying.
3. Furnace door.
4. Blower door.
5. Grate.
6. Metal tank for hot water.
7. Metal bunker for bath stones.
8. Smoke damper.

A drawing of the furnace, where its overall dimensions are indicated.

The firebox inside the furnace is made of refractory heat-resistant bricks. The gap between red and refractory bricks is 15 ... 20 (mm). A metal water tank is installed at the back of the firebox, at the level of the grate.

A metal bunker is installed on top of the firebox, into which stones are placed with a slide. The presented design with an open stove quickly heats up the steam room, and if the stones have cooled down, you can burn fuel while taking bath procedures.

Material specification:

• red brick, 65 х120 х 250 (mm) - 181 (pcs.)
• refractory refractory brick, 65 x 114 x 230 (mm) - 72 (pcs.)
• clay - 60 (kg)
• refractory clay - 35 (kg)
• sand - 32 (kg)
• smoke valve - 140 x 270 (mm)
• furnace door - 250 x 205 (mm)
• blower door - 250 x 135 (mm)
• cast iron grate - 250 x 252 (mm)
• water tank - 250 x 555 x 760 (mm), stainless steel sheet 3 (mm)
• bunker for stones - 260 x 320 x 350 (mm), stainless steel sheet 3 (mm)
• square metal mesh, wire diameter 2 (mm), mesh size 15 ... 20 (mm)

The laying of the stove for a sauna heater designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin.

1st row. Solid brick masonry is displayed at or above the floor level.
2nd row. They install the blower door, start laying from refractory bricks, while strictly observing the rules for bandaging bricks.
3rd row. According to the order.
4th row. The blower door is laid with three bricks, the edges of which are cut off at an angle, as shown in the figure.

5th row. Grooves are cut out in refractory bricks and a grate is installed in them.
6th row. They put the firebox door and install a metal tank for hot water.

Reference:
Odd rows of red brick masonry, tied with a strip of welded square metal mesh.
At the corners, the mesh strip bends at a 90 ° angle.

The width of the groove for the grate should be 5 ... 8 (mm) larger than the outer dimensions of the grate.

7th and 8th row. According to the order.
9th row. The firebox door is laid with three bricks, the edges of which are cut off at an angle.
10, 11, 12th row. According to the order.

13th row. According to the order.
14th row. A metal tank for hot water is laid and a metal bin for stones is installed.

Drawing of a metal bunker for stones.

15, 16 row. According to the order.
17 row. Grooves are cut out in the bricks and a valve is installed in them.
Row 18. Closes the smoke damper.

Drawings of the stove for a brick bath, designed by E.Ya.

Kolomakin and the ordering scheme are considered in the presented material.

Reference:
Heating time for water and stones is 150 ... 180 (min.)

In the next article, you can familiarize yourself with the device of a sauna stove with a heat exchanger.

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For a long time, stoves for heating a house have been traditional heating structures and in many respects they cannot be compared not only with boilers, but also with various other heaters. They provide "living" heat, in addition, they are distinguished by their practicality and unpretentiousness in the use of solid fuel. In addition, a self-built stove will last for many years.

Stoves for heating a private house are considered perfect choice for suburban real estate. A well-designed heating structure is able to provide residents with a comfortable stay in each of the premises of the building. Read also: "".

DIY stove: how to do it right

At a time when stoves were the main heating method in houses, they were built and repaired by masters - stove-makers. Now, with certain skills, home craftsmen have the opportunity to fold the stove with their own hands. In the absence of experience in carrying out construction work, it is advisable to entrust the arrangement of such a heating structure to professionals. It should not be forgotten that the stove belongs to the objects of increased danger.

Before proceeding with the independent construction of brick heating units, it is necessary to understand their main types and operating features:

• heating stoves - they are intended exclusively for heating the house. Their masonrycarried out quickly, since their device is simple (in more detail: "");
• heating and cooking ovens - today they are considered the most popular and demanded. In addition to heating the premises, you can also cook food on them, saving good money on gas and other modern heat carriers (read: "");
• for cooking, a special stove is built into the heating structure, and, if desired, even an oven;
• fireplace stoves - thanks to the installation of such units, you can save space in the house, thereby creating more comfortable conditions accommodation and provide efficient heating of rooms (read: ""). It takes a little time to ignite them. Fireplace stoves have a presentable appearance that can decorate any room, as in a small country house and in a luxurious country villa (read also: "").

Do-it-yourself stoves for home are distinguished by their shape. For country houses, rectangular, square or round structures are most often chosen, and such a variety of models allows you to choose the best option, based on the purpose and interior of a particular room.

In addition, regardless of the type, type and size of the fuel used, the stove must meet certain fire safety requirements. The base for a brick heating structure must certainly be concrete. Read also: "".

Location of heating stoves

At self-arrangement furnace heating, it is necessary to provide the most optimal location for the installation of the heating unit. If, for example, you place a structure in the middle of a room, then it will have the maximum possible heat transfer, since it will heat the space from all sides, while evenly giving off heat to the air.

In the event that the stove is placed near the wall, convection currents of cool air emanating from doors and windows will actively move around the house. As a result, with such an arrangement of the heating structure, residents will constantly feel the cold, "stretching" along their legs.

Before laying the furnace device, it is required, according to the installation rules, to provide for the location of the combustion chamber door (read: ""). This is necessary so that you do not have to carry armfuls of firewood across the room, carrying dirt and soot. You can avoid such problems by installing the stove in the kitchen or in a little-visited room.

Types of bases for heating structures

In the drawings of furnaces for heating, the arrangement of a concrete floor or the presence of its own foundation is provided. In the latter case, the base is made in such a way that it is designed for the installation of the body of the structure and the walls of leaning against the chimney pipe, as shown.

Main components:

1. Toplivnik... When a stove is created in a house with your own hands, this element is one of the main parts of the heating unit. It must hold the volume of wood or other fuel to the maximum to ensure the highest performance of the structure. The size of the firebox can be different, because this parameter depends on the type of solid fuel (for firewood, the height of the chamber ranges from 40 to 100 centimeters), volume, performance. The firebox is laid out exclusively from refractory bricks, and the thickness of its walls should be at least half a brick.
2. Ash pan... This chamber is equipped with a door and is located directly under the grate. It is designed to collect ash and supply air to fuel. The height of the ash pan is equal to three bricks.
3. Chimney... One of the main elements that are found in every modern brick oven. Outwardly, it is similar to a coil along which flue gases move, heating the air in the room. When a stove is created for heating a house, such as in the photo, when designing a chimney for a modern heating structure, experts do not recommend providing a large number of turns and bends, since they create additional resistance to the movement of flue gases, which results in a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.

Preparation of the solution

The stove can serve reliably for a long time if the mortar is properly prepared for the masonry. It is made from sand, clay and water. It must be tough, strong and durable at the same time. Preparing a clay-sand mortar is simple: it requires clay, which is poured with water and soaked for at least a day. Then the mixture is passed through a sieve and stirred to the consistency of "clay milk" and only then add required amount sand (read also: "").

The stove with your own hands will be durable and reliable design, will last more than a dozen years if the solution is made correctly. In the event that the building materials turn out to be of poor quality, and the brick was laid without observing the technology, the heating unit will quickly fail and may even collapse.

Features of the oven masonry process

Before making a stove with your own hands, you should make a foundation for it in advance. Usually bricklaying begins one month after the foundation is created. It is necessary to withstand a certain time so that the stove turns out to be efficient and of high quality, and the heating structure lasts a long time, without overhaul and alterations while maintaining functionality and high performance.

Work on laying a brick oven is carried out in several stages:

1. First of all, lay out the ash chamber and the bottom of the first bell with a roll-up. Usually, a clay-sand mixture with high viscosity and strength is used for masonry.
2. The doors are mounted in brickwork, and they are fastened using galvanized wire.
3. A grate is installed over the ash pan. Then they proceed to the installation of the firebox, which is lined with fireclay bricks from the inside, placing it on the edge. In the manufacture of the solution, sand and chamotte clay are used. Fireplace door fixed with wire and a steel plate having a thickness of 2.5 millimeters. Read also: "".
4. On the 12th row of brickwork, close the combustion chamber and then, using a level, mount a cast-iron stove with burners. On the left side of the structure, the first hood and the channel intended for the summer run are laid.
5. After completing the installation of the plate, lay out the walls of the cooking chamber. On the left side, the erection of the lower cap is continued.
6. In the cooking chamber in the inner row, a summer valve is installed, which is necessary for kindling the furnaces.
7. In row 20, the first of the hoods and the cooking chamber are covered. In solid brickwork, it is necessary to leave openings for an air vent for the brewing compartment, a summer run and a lifting channel. For this, the bricks are supported on steel corners in order to strengthen the heating structure and thereby increase its reliability.
8. At the cooking chamber, the portal should be closed with hinged fireplace doors. Good decision the doors will be supplied with inserts made of heat-resistant glass. If they are available, it becomes possible to exercise control over the combustion process and at the same time observe how the tongues of flame look. Read also: "".
9. After overlapping the cooking chamber and the lower bell, the upper bell is laid out with the help of two brick rows. Cleaning doors are installed in convenient places to help remove soot.
10. The walls of the hood are erected almost to the top of the wall opening. At the top, the oven is covered with two brick rows. For additional thermal insulation, the hole between the top of the unit and the overhanging lintel must be filled with mineral wool.
11. If you make a stove with your own hands, a decorative belt is placed along its upper perimeter and the installation of a pipe that removes flue gases begins. The perfect solution counts brick chimney as metal and asbestos pipes often burn out over time. Read also: "".

An originally made stove with your own hands is shown in the video: