Step-by-step instructions for laying furnaces. How to make a small brick oven with your own hands

In this article - a clear, very detailed photo instruction of masonry brick oven with your own hands, tips on how not to make a mistake when choosing necessary materials and how to properly place the stove in a private house for optimal heating of a larger area.

Options for installing a stove in the house

The placement of the stove depends entirely on what exactly the owners expect from it. If it is installed in a house of a small area and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. Such a stove is a good option for barbecue on the grill or shish kebabs.

Options for placing a brick oven

The second scheme is for a solid quadrature house. In this case, the front side of the fireplace stove opens into the living room, the stove walls heat both bedrooms, and the heat in the remaining rooms is maintained by heat exchange.

The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking - a budget option housing for a bachelor or a small family. Pluses - a warm couch and the possibility of placing a dryer in the hallway.

Important: it is worth taking care of external insulation at home, because it greatly increases the efficiency of stove heating.

Selection of bricks, sand, mortar

In order for the oven to serve for a long time, you need to correctly select all the materials. Bricks are of three types:

Ceramic - can be used to build a furnace.
Silicate - not suitable at all in this case, even double M150.
Refractory - ideal, but they are more often covered only with a firebox and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.

Tip: when choosing a brick for the stove, you need to completely abandon its hollow types.

The solution is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, special fireclay clay is required. Individual stove-makers still, in the old fashioned way, independently make a solution of river sand with a grain of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5: 1) and water. It is advisable to use an angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called greasy clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy ready-made oven mixture in the store, having prepared it according to the instructions.

From the fittings you need to purchase grates, blowers and furnace doors, soot cleaners, gate valves or dampers.

Preparation, list of tools

Before starting work, you need to determine and mark out the place that the new stove will take.

The chimney pipe must be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.

If you are laying for the first time, professional stove-makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model of the future furnace from the prepared brick. Naturally, without solution. This minimizes the possible risks in real laying, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.

The furnace foundation requires preliminary waterproofing, in area it must exceed the area of \u200b\u200bthe stove.

During the laying of a new row, it is necessary to control the absolute verticality of the walls.

For the construction of a brick oven, the following tools are needed:

plumb;
trowel;
roulette;
putty knife;
Bulgarian;
knitting wire;
building level;
metal strips, corners;
containers for cement and clay mortar.

Step-by-step instructions with a photo for laying the stove

Different stove-makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that have come with years of experience. Here is information about enough easy way creating a fireplace stove for heating two-story house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even for beginner stove-makers.

Foundation masonry

The base row of brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is carried out with any brick, some stove-makers even fill this level with rubble.

When laying the base row, cement mortar is used.

The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.

The erection of the furnace body

The first oven row is marked. The horizontal, from which they repel when marking, is the wall of the room.

Where the fireplace is planned to be placed, a grate is placed. From this row, the bricks are already laid on the furnace mortar.

An important stage of work is the scrupulous alignment of each new row by level.

Second row laying. The stove wall closest to the wall of the room is reinforced with an additional brick to increase fire safety.

The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the furnace is completely laid. A door is mounted through which the owners will clean out the ashes.

The door is installed on the solution, leveled. For a more reliable fixation, it is fixed with a wire that must be laid between the bricks.

The grate is laid not on a simple, but on a refractory brick. In order for it to lie on the same level as the bricks, holes are cut out in fireclay bricks.

The size of the brick is easily adjusted - the excess is measured and carefully cut off.

The large door is mounted next to the installed grate.

The large oven door is similarly fixed with wire fasteners.

The first firebox row is placed exactly above the fireplace, it is reinforced with metal corners and a strip or thick tin. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut with a grinder, then the slots are brought manually to the desired size.

The next brick row is laid.

A fireplace grate is laid on a refractory brick along with a brick row.

The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to it.

The firebox of the new stove with a fireplace is ready.

Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed over the furnace furnace.

The body of the stove is built.

Creating a chimney

The place left under the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.

Brick chimney wells are being laid.

Soot cleaners are mounted above the furnace roof.

The wells are again divided, the first rows of walls should be reinforced with strips of metal.

After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The space related to the chimney remains empty.

The cornice of the body is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.

The final stage of work on the first floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and exits at the top left. The final separation of the wells is closed with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace stove, 2 brick rows are laid on the tin.

Two chimneys stretch to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. Each chimney requires a separate damper.

Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is mounted here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. In order to save money and not build a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will go through it like a snake, having time to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is laid in the area of \u200b\u200bthe second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 bricks.

A hole for the stove chimney is carefully sawn out in the roof.

Before bringing the chimney to the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.

If the chimney is located in close proximity to the roof ridge, it must be laid out above the ridge by at least 0.5 meters. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed, equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the stove draft, lifting the smoke up.

Even a small oven in the house is a cosiness and comfort. Larger stoves require more skill and additional materials, however, the principle of their construction is similar to the above method.

Figure 1 - Stove with fireplace and stove

The stove is a very popular option for heating private houses. Of course, there are now many variety of options heating, but still the stove remains a very popular option for heating a house, it private rooms. In addition, you can cook food on the stove, use it as a dryer, steam room in the bath, make a lounger and sleep on it. In addition, you can come up with a number of other applications and bring them to life.

What are the advantages of brick ovens?

It has a number of positive aspects and in many situations outperforms its competitors. Here are the main advantages of this option:

This heating option is environmentally friendly: when laying stoves, only Construction Materials natural origin, when heated, they do not emit any harmful substances and carcinogens.
After heating, the stove keeps heat for a long time.
It can harmoniously fit into the interior of the room.
It is a multifunctional product - in addition to heating rooms, you can cook food on it, use it as a dryer, and the healing properties of therapeutic sleep on the stove are generally known.

What should I pay attention to when choosing the parameters of the furnace and its location?

The stove is a multifunctional element, with its help you can maintain comfort in the room, cook food, heat, dry, etc. Therefore, the choice of the dimensions of the furnace and its placement in the house must be approached as seriously and responsibly as possible. The larger the stove, the more heat it will give, and the longer it will cool down after the heating is completed. If the house has several separate rooms located opposite each other, then it is advisable to position the stove in such a way that its sides, giving off maximum amount heat, looked towards these rooms. It is no secret that the sides of the oven emit 3-4 times more heat than the front and back side. This must be taken into account when designing the location of the furnace in the room.

What kind of brick should be used in the construction of the furnace?

Different parts of the furnace are laid out with different bricks, depending on the temperatures that will affect it:
1. The lower rows of the furnace, which will not be exposed high temperatures, as well as parts of the chimney, the smoke temperature in which will not exceed 80 degrees, can be laid out from building red brick.

2. Furnace red ceramic brick. Has the best features. Furnace brick withstands high temperatures up to 800 degrees without destruction. This brick lays out the furnace part.
3. Chamotte brick. This brick lays out the inside of the combustion chamber. It withstands temperatures up to 1600 degrees. It has a high heat capacity and thermal conductivity.

It is impossible to lay out the furnace only with fireclay bricks. It heats up very quickly and cools down just as quickly. In order for the oven to give off heat for a long time, outer layer the furnace must be laid out with oven bricks.

What mortar is needed to bond bricks?

Different parts of the furnace are laid out with different types of bricks. Solution in different parts will also be different:

Cement-sand. Parts of the furnace, which are laid out with ordinary red brick, are placed on an ordinary mortar.
Mortar based on M400 cement. A mortar based on cement of this brand and high-quality mountain sand is used in the construction of those parts of the furnace where the temperature will not exceed 250 degrees.
clay solution. Also mixed with mountain sand. However, expensive mountain sand can be replaced with sand from ground oven or fireclay bricks.
Clay is a very important component of the solution. It is best to use a red oven. When frozen, it should not crumble and crumble.
The solution should be of medium density - like thick sour cream in consistency. The layer thickness should be minimal - no more than 5 mm. This is necessary so that the precious heat from the stove does not leave too quickly.

How to fold the oven with your own hands?

To do this work, it is best, of course, to resort to the services of a qualified professional - a stove-maker, but this is not a panacea. The work can be done on your own. You just need to stock up on knowledge and boldly get to work.
Laying can be divided into stages. We offer step by step instructions.

Stage 1 - Choosing a place for the furnace

The first step is to choose a place where it will stand. This should be a place closer to the center of the room, so that when the stove is heated, it evenly gives off its heat even to the most remote corners of the room. The location of the stove should be such that it does not interfere with the passage, does not block the light. There should not be any furniture or combustible utensils near the stove, which can ignite when the stove is very hot and cause a fire. Also, the place where it is installed should be such that it is convenient to work near it: lay firewood, take out and throw away ashes, work on the stove, etc. Also, next to the stove, there should be a place for storing a small pile of firewood, so that at any time you can add a couple of poleshin to the fire.

Step 2 - Sizing the Furnace

Everything is simple here: the larger the stove, the more heat it will give off, the longer it will cool down and give off heat to the room large quantity time. However, such a stove needs to be heated up longer and more firewood is needed for heating.
A small one is faster to drown, but there will be less heat from it and it will be faster.

Stage 3 - Choosing a brick and its quantity

Next, you need to choose a brick from which the furnace will be laid out. It is best to take red. The number of bricks is determined by multiplying the number of bricks in a row by the number of rows. You also need to take into account possible errors and additional branches during masonry.

Stage 4 - Site Preparation

If the stove is massive and heavy, then it is advisable to make a separate foundation for it. If not, then you need to prepare a flat, clean surface, cover it with roofing material. If necessary, formwork can be made from boards. The first row sets the tone for all future work, so everything must be done in good faith.

Stage 5 - Laying the first row - the underfloor part

The first row is the basis of the future design. Therefore, it must be approached very responsibly. We arm ourselves with a level, if necessary, we make formwork. It is best to first lay out the first row without mortar and see what happens, and then fasten the bricks with mortar.

Stage 6 - Installing the blower

After laying two rows, you need to install a blower door and make a cavity into which ash from the combustion chamber will pour. To fix the door, the hardened wire is fixed at one end into special holes in the door, the other end is fixed between the bricks on the mortar.

Stage 7 - Laying out the flame section

The fire chamber is laid out from heat-resistant furnace and fireclay bricks. You also need to install grates through which the ashes will fall down.

Stage 8 - Installing the combustion chamber door

Important milestone construction works. It is installed by analogy with the blower door. The furnace door must be securely fastened as much as possible, because. it will open and close for years to come.

Stage 9 - Laying the rows of the furnace part

Stage 10 - Installing the plate

The slab must be laid evenly, all seams and joints must be very well smeared with mortar and be sealed so that when the stove burns, smoke does not go through the cracks into the room, and flames do not fall on hob.

Stage 11 - Laying the chimney

Different parts of the chimney that will be affected by different temperatures are laid out again different types bricks. In the process of laying the chimney, you must not forget about the view and the chimney valve. The view is installed by analogy with the blower door. A narrow slot in the chimney must be provided for the valve.

When the stove is on, the damper is extended and allows smoke to escape through the pipe to the street; when it is not in operation or the heating is completed, the damper is in the retracted position.

Stage 12 - Exit the chimney through the roof

One of the most difficult and responsible stages. The pipe through which smoke will be removed outside the house can be of the following types:

Asbestos cement is one of the cheapest and most affordable options.
Metal.
Stainless steel.
Brick. The laying of the furnace continues after the chimney, which smoothly passes into the pipe and exits above the roof.
Ceramic pipe is an expensive option.
Vermiculite pipe is a new modern solution.

Necessary tools, materials and fixtures for work

To perform the work you will need the following tool:

Master OK.
Pick.
Building level.
Owl shovel.
Plumb.
Putty knife.
Roulette.
Pliers.
Bulgarian.
Sieve.

Figure 11 - Tool required for construction work
You will also need the following materials and fixtures:

Brick (furnace, construction, fireclay).
Formwork boards.
Ruberoid.
Chimney damper.
Chimney flue.
Form for mixing the solution.
Blower door.
Furnace door.
Cement.
Mountain sand.
Red clay.
Water.

Conclusion

Laying the stove in your private home is a very big and responsible job. First you need to develop a project, choose a place, make sure the foundation is reliable, or make a new foundation for the furnace. It is necessary to correctly choose the dimensions of the furnace based on the size of the room and the purpose of the furnace, correctly position it in the house relative to the rooms. To lay the furnace, you need to prepare different types of bricks, knead a quality mortar. After completing all the work, you need to heat the furnace and see how it works, whether the stove, valve, doors work properly, whether the structure is hermetically folded, etc. In case of finding minor flaws, they will need to be eliminated as soon as the heating is completed and the furnace has cooled down.

Despite the fact that many today are equipped with one or another heating system, brick heating facilities do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and craftsmen all new models of furnaces are being developed, more compact, including various functions. Really, stove heating will never be superfluous for a private house, as it can help out the owners in different situations. For example, in autumn or spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems to be too early to turn on heating system, a heated stove will create a cozy atmosphere in the rooms and save them from excessive moisture. The stove will help maintain an optimally favorable atmosphere in the house and a temperature balance that is comfortable for a person.

Therefore, a search query on how to fold the oven with your own hands, the drawings of which will tell you in detail about the correct sequence of masonry work, does not leave the Internet. Today, even those people who have no experience as a stove-maker at all are showing a desire to try their hand at this craft. If a decision is made to install a stove in the house on their own, then beginners are recommended to choose a simple version of this structure with a clear order.

In addition to the availability of the design, when choosing, you should pay attention to its heat capacity, that is, what area it is designed to heat. It is important to consider functionality structures and decide what you would like to get from it.

Varieties of brick ovens

There are several main types of stoves - some of them perform only one main task - this is home heating, others are used only for cooking, and still others include several functions at once in their "feature set". Therefore, in order to determine the desired model, you need to know what each of the varieties is.

the structure can not only heat one or two rooms, but also help cook food and boil water. If the model is equipped with an oven and a drying niche, then it becomes possible to bake bread and dry fruits and vegetables for the winter.

The heating and cooking stove is often built into the wall or acts as a wall itself - for this it is turned with a stove and firebox towards the kitchen, and with the back wall into the living area of the house. You can solve two problems at once - heating the premises and getting the opportunity to cook in a separate room.

If the design is additionally equipped with a fireplace, then the stove will work not only as a functional structure, but will also become a decorative decoration of the house.

The heating type of stoves is designed only for heating the premises of the house. Some models have not only a combustion chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the oven can operate in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are both active at the same time. Most often, heating stoves are built into the wall between rooms or installed in the middle of one large hall, dividing it into zones.

A similar structure is being built both for the main heating of the house, and as an additional one, which is used in spring and autumn period to maintain normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. Heating stoves they are usually installed when the kitchen has already realized its ability to cook, or in a large house in terms of total area, where several stoves are being built that perform various functions.

On the suburban area in small house it is better to install a multifunctional building that can help out in several situations at once.

The cooking oven is being built in the kitchen, and its design is designed specifically for fast cooking food. However, this function does not deprive it of heating capabilities either, since its entire body, back wall and cast-iron stove warm up well, giving off heat to the room.

The main function of this stove is cooking

The cooking stove is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in a country house or in a small kitchen of a private house.

Having such a compact but functional unit, you can eliminate the risk of freezing or being left without dinner and hot tea even if the electricity and gas supply is turned off.

A lot has been developed various models all listed types of furnaces. They can be quite miniature, and occupy large area. Therefore, having settled on one of the models, before stocking up on materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw its base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to be installed. Thus, it will be possible to visually determine how much free space will remain in the room.

How to choose the right place to install the oven?

In order for the stove to work efficiently and give off heat as much as possible to the premises of the house, and also be fireproof, you need to choose the right location for it.

It is especially important to think about this point if the stove is built into a finished building, since the chimney must pass between the ceiling beams and not accidentally stumble upon them, so the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.

Furnace brick structure can be installed in different places rooms or between two rooms. Which place is better to choose will be discussed later.

To obtain maximum effect from the stove, do not install it near outer wall building, as it will cool quickly and is unlikely to be able to heat more than one room.
Some models of stoves are installed in the center of the room or offset from it to one side or the other. This location is chosen if the room needs to be divided into separate zones. Moreover, different sides furnace facilities may have a different decorative trim, made in a style that matches the design of a particular area of the room.
Quite often, the stove is built into the wall between two or even three rooms, which makes it possible to use the generated heat as efficiently as possible. In this case, for the purpose of fire safety, it is very important to provide reliable insulation of walls, ceiling and attic floor at the passage
When choosing the installation site, it is also necessary to provide for the fact that each side of the foundation for the furnace must be 100 ÷ 150 mm larger than the base of the furnace itself.
In order to accurately determine the size of the base and the height of the oven, it is recommended that you always choose the model to which the ordering diagram is attached.

Having chosen a place for its installation, you can purchase all the necessary materials and prepare the right tools. The amount of materials will depend on the size and functionality of the stove model, and the masonry tools used are always the same.

Tools needed for masonry work

To work, you will need to prepare a very “solid” set of tools

Of the tools for laying bricks and pouring the foundation, you will need:

Rule - this tool is used to level the surface of the foundation poured with concrete.
A pickaxe is needed for splitting and hewing bricks.
Veselka - a wooden spatula that is used for grinding clay and lime mortar.
The furnace hammer is used to split the brick and remove the dried mortar that has protruded beyond the masonry.
A whisk made of bast is intended for cleaning the internal channels of the furnace from sand and mortar that have entered them.
Lead scriber is needed for markings if the stove is finished with tiles.
The building level is necessary to control the evenness of the rows and the surface of the walls.
Scriber - a rod used for markings.
A plumb line is a cord with a load, designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
Construction angle with a ruler for checking the correctness of external and internal corners as they must be perfectly straight.
Pliers are used to bend and cut off the wire to fix the cast-iron elements of the furnace in the masonry joints.
Rasp - This tool is used to remove sagging and lapping lumps in dried masonry.
The chisel is used for splitting bricks and parsing old masonry.
A rubber mallet is needed to level the brick laid on the mortar by tapping.
(trowels) of different sizes are used to apply mortar when laying bricks and remove the mixture that has come out of the seams.
Jointing - a tool for leveling the mortar in the seams of the masonry. It is used in the event that the masonry is made "for jointing", without further cladding.
A manual rammer will be required to compact the soil and backfill layers into the foundation pit.
Containers for mixing mortar and clean water.
Sieve with a metal mesh for sifting sand.

Stand for the convenience of working at height, called "goats". The surface of this device is of sufficient size not only for the comfortable movement of the master, but also for installing a container filled with a solution.

Arrangement of the foundation for a brick stove

The foundation for the furnace is usually prepared together with the foundation of the house, but they should not be in contact with each other, and even more so, be combined into a single structure. New foundations tend to shrink, which can lead to deformation of one of them, and this will cause damage to the other. That is why they must be installed separately from each other.

In the case of building a stove in an already built house with a wooden floor, you will have to do a fairly large-scale work. In the place where the stove will be installed, the floor boards will have to be removed by cutting a hole to the size of the future foundation.

If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the chosen furnace model is not too massive, then the structure can also be erected on it, having previously laid waterproofing material at the installation site.

The foundation must have the shape of the base of the furnace, however, as mentioned above, each of its sides is made larger than the side of the furnace by 100 ÷ 150 mm.

If the floor in the house is wooden, markings are made on it, along which the boards will be cut.
Then, in the soil of the subfloor, a pit is dug in the shape of the future foundation, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
The bottom of the pit is compacted, and its walls are lined plastic wrap or ruberoid.

Then, laid out on the bottom sand cushion 100÷150 mm thick, depending on the depth of the excavation, and is well compacted with a manual rammer.
The next layer, on top of the sand, is filled with gravel, which, if possible, is also compacted. This layer can be from 150 to 200 mm.
Further, along the perimeter of the pit, a wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed. Moreover, polyethylene or roofing material remains inside it, and then fixed to the walls with a stapler and staples. This waterproof material will keep the solution poured into the formwork, preventing moisture from leaving it, which will give the slab the opportunity to dry and harden evenly.
The foundation should be approximately 250 mm below the level of the "clean" floor, that is, two rows of bricks will need to be laid on the finished base so that it rises flush with the floor surface.
Some craftsmen, in order to save bricks, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80 ÷ 100 mm. The convenience of this solution also lies in the simpler docking of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor covering.
The next step in the formwork, at its entire height, is a reinforcing grate made of steel reinforcement with a thickness of 4 ÷ 6 mm. The rods are connected to each other by wire twists.
Next, in lower part formwork, for a thickness of 250÷300 mm it is possible to pour concrete mortar, mixed from cement and gravel in proportions of 1: 3, or cement, crushed stone of the middle fraction with the addition of sand, in a ratio of 1: 2: 1. But, in principle, you can use an ordinary concrete mortar from sand and cement.
If a coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for it to set, a finely mixed solution is laid out on top.
The flooded one is leveled by the rule along the upper edges of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to lay and drown a reinforcing mesh with 50 mm cells into the solution by 15 ÷ 20 mm.

The surface of the foundation is again leveled, and if necessary, a concrete solution is added to the formwork on top of the grid.
Further, the foundation is left to harden and gain strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layers of the poured mortar. To make the concrete more durable, it is recommended to spray it with water every day during the first week, starting from the second day.
On top of the frozen foundation, waterproofing is laid, consisting of two or three sheets of roofing material, which are stacked one on top of the other.

To start laying the first row, it is recommended to do on waterproofing material markings, indicating the location of the base of the furnace. Thanks to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to install the first row of bricks and keep the sides and corners even.

After these preparatory work, you can proceed to masonry.

Dry masonry

Even experienced craftsmen, starting the laying of a previously unfamiliar design, they first produce it dry, that is, without mortar. This process helps to understand the intricacies of the internal channels of the furnace and not make mistakes during the main masonry. The whole building rises dry, and each of the rows must be laid out in accordance with the order applied to the furnace model.

When performing dry laying, it is necessary to observe the thickness of the horizontal and vertical rows. In order for this parameter to be maintained the same throughout the entire masonry, slats 5 mm thick can be used. Of course, it will be difficult to measure vertical seams with small pieces of laths when laying dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, laths must be used. Applying them, after laying out the last row of the structure, you can see the actual height of the furnace.

As an example of the use of rails, you can consider this photo.

It is especially important to adhere to a single thickness of the seams if the masonry is made for jointing, and will not be further finished with additional decorative materials.

When laying dry, it is important to understand the configuration of the channel through which the smoke will leave the furnace and rise to the chimney. If a mistake is made when laying out this passage, then it will be necessary to shift part or even the entire structure of the furnace, as it may form reverse thrust, and smoke will go to the room during kindling.

Having lifted the stove dry before laying the chimney pipe, the structure is dismantled. Moreover, if not only whole ones, but also their small fragments were used in the rows, then when disassembling each of the rows can be folded in a separate pile, putting the row number on one of the bricks. Sometimes, in addition, the number of the brick in each of the rows is also affixed. Such a system will speed up the work, since all the material will be adjusted and laid out in right order, and it remains only to soak it alternately and lay it in the rows of the oven, but already on the solution.

Performing the main masonry, two slats are installed on the edges of the previous row, between which a solution with a thickness of 60 ÷ 70 mm is applied. Then a brick of the upper row is placed on it, leveled and tapped until it rests on the slats. It is necessary to have such calibration devices for three rows, since it can only be pulled out of the seam after the mortar has set. So, having laid out three rows, the slats are pulled out from the lowest seam, cleaned and laid on the fourth - and so on. If there is no certainty that the vertical seams will be of the same thickness, a short rail can also be prepared for them, which will be rearranged into the next seam immediately after the alignment of two adjacent bricks.

After pulling the calibration rails out of the seam, a sufficiently deep gap will remain between the bricks. It is filled with mortar, the excess of which is removed with a trowel, and then put in order with the help of jointing.

Processing of seams "under jointing"

If the calibration rails were laid on both edges of the brick, then with inside the walls will also remain indentations between the seams. They also need to be carefully sealed, since the seams must be sealed, filled with mortar over the entire width of the brick.

It is very important, when laying on a mortar, to check each of the laid rows with a building level so that the entire structure does not skew.

Simple aids such as sizing bars will help you lay neatly with even joint widths. Therefore, the entire surface of the furnace will look as if the design was made by a professional master.

These nuances will help simplify the process of building a furnace structure, avoid mistakes that may lead to the need to redo all the work.

Schemes for the construction of brick kilns

Furnace Yu. Proskurin with heating and cooking functions and a drying chamber

The model developed by engineer Yu. Proskurin can be called one of the simplest designs of heating and cooking stoves, which even a novice master can quite master. Despite the compact size of the structure, the stove is able to perform all the functions necessary for a small house, as it is equipped with a hob and a drying chamber, which, if desired, can be replaced with a hot water tank.

Such a stove is able to heat one or two rooms with a total area of 17÷20 m², so it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small spaces Houses. At the same time, it, of course, must be oriented in such a way that the structure is turned by the plate towards the kitchen room.

Dimensions of this heating facility, without the height of the chimney, are 750×630×2070 mm. The stove has two modes of operation - winter and summer, which allows you to warm time year use only hob, without unnecessary heating of the whole house. The heat transfer from the furnace with its full heating is 1700 kcal / h.

For the construction of this heating structure, the following materials will be required:

Name of materials and elements	Quantity (piece)	Element dimensions (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe laying)	281÷285	250×120×65
Fireclay bricks refractory grade Sh-8	82÷85	250×120×65
Furnace door	1	210×250
Doors for cleaning channels	2	140×140
Blower door	1	140×250
Summer damper for chimney	1	130×130
Firebox valve	1	130×130
Stove valve	1	130×130
grate	1	200×300
Single burner hob	1	410×340
steel strip	1	40×260×5
	1	40×350×5
	1	40×360×5
steel corner	1	40×40×635
	3	40×40×510
	4	40×40×350
roofing iron	1	380×310
Pre-furnace metal sheet	1	500×700

To fill the foundation, it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, roofing material, reinforcing bar or steel wire 5÷6 mm thick. If it is decided to replace the drying chamber with a hot water tank, then you will have to purchase or manufacture it as well.

In order for the work to be successful, it is strongly recommended that you carefully study the order before starting it, and keep this scheme always at hand during the masonry process.

In this illustration, this furnace is schematically represented in several sections. Here you can clearly see how the chimney channels pass inside the structure, trace the movement of smoke from the furnace to the chimney.

Illustration (order)	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first row is solid, it is laid out according to the configuration shown in the diagram. The row must be perfectly even, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend on its correct laying. The row consists of 15 bricks.
	Second row. At this stage, the shape of the ashpit (blowing chamber) and the bottom of the two channels are laid, which will run vertically. Laying out a row, leave openings for installing the doors of the blower and cleaning chambers. On the same row they are installed. A row is laid out of 13 bricks.
	In cast iron doors, for their fixing in the masonry, special ears are provided into which prepared pieces of wire are inserted. Further, their ends are twisted together and embedded in the seams between the rows of side walls. To prevent the door from moving from the installation site until it is completely fixed, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
	The third row is laid out according to the scheme. The walls of the blower and cleaning chamber rise in it, and the ends of the wire are fixed in the seams between the rows of bricks, with the help of which the doors are fixed. To lay a row, you will need 13 red bricks.
	Fourth row. The chamber of vertical channels is divided into two, since further they will be laid out separately. The cross section of the channels along their entire height will be 80 × 120 mm. In addition, in this row, the installed doors overlap. It is necessary to prepare 13 red bricks.
	The laying of the fifth row is made with refractory fireclay bricks, since the formation of the lower part of the furnace takes place. In the bricks that determine the place of laying the grate, from their inner edge, a cut is made at a right angle. The size of the cutout should be approximately 10×10 mm ± 1 mm. Prepared bricks are laid over the blower chamber. For laying a row, 16 fireclay bricks are required.
	After that, on the fifth row, a grate is installed in the prepared recesses in the bricks. It is sometimes mounted on clay mortar, but often - completely without a solution. In the latter case, the gaps between the grate and the brick, which should be on the order of 3÷5 mm, are filled with sand.
	Sixth row. The walls of the two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the furnace begin to be erected. Masonry is carried out only with fireclay bricks. The row consists of 12 fireclay bricks.
	Further, on the sixth row, a furnace door is mounted, which, like the blower door, is fixed with a wire in the seams of the side walls. However, before installation, the furnace door is equipped not only with wire fasteners, but is also wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a thermal gap, which will allow the metal to expand when it is strongly heated.
	The seventh and eighth rows are laid out of 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to the ordering scheme. During their laying, the walls of the firebox continue to rise and vertical channels form. It is clear that the laying of bricks in the rows is tied up.
	When laying the ninth row, the door of the combustion chamber is closed. To relieve the load from the cast-iron door, from the bricks installed on the side walls, the edges turned towards the combustion chamber are cut off at the same angle of 30˚. These cuts will serve as a kind of stand for the middle brick, cut from both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should fit perfectly between the two extreme bricks. A row will require 12 fireclay bricks.
	On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with the extreme vertical channel, since the smoke formed in the furnace was directed into this hole. In order to ensure the smooth running of hot air, a protruding corner is cut on the middle brick separating the furnace hole and the closed channel. This row will require 11 fireclay bricks.
	On the eleventh row, the masonry going around the combustion chamber is different in that it uses bricks with a cut to the depth of the brick by 10 × 20 mm. This step is designed for laying hob. For masonry, you will need 11 fireclay bricks.
	After the 11th row is laid out, the step on the bricks is laid with asbestos strips or a layer of clay, 3 ÷ 4 mm thick (assuming the thickness of the hob is 5 mm). These spacers will serve as a cushion and thermal gap for the hob. Then, a hob is installed on the place prepared for it. From the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the corner part of the masonry is reinforced with a metal corner.
	From the twelfth row, masonry will be made only with red brick. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and the previously opened vertical channel is again closed with a jumper. For laying this row, you need to prepare 10 bricks.
	The 13th row is laid out according to the scheme, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel a place is formed for installing a valve designed to switch the furnace modes to winter or summer. To do this, cutouts are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Further, on the prepared place, on the clay-sand mortar, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed. A row is laid out of 10 bricks.
	14th ÷ 18th rows - each of them will require 10 bricks. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber.
	On the 18th row, the cooking chamber is covered with three steel corners, which form the basis for laying the next rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the "ceiling" of the cooking chamber, the second turns to the first and is installed at a distance of 250 mm from it (brick size), and the third corner is pressed against the second with the back side. Looking at this design, it is quite possible to understand how the bricks should be laid.
	19th row. Laying it out, the cooking chamber is covered with 12 bricks, but a steam exhaust hole is formed above it, into which the valve will be installed. To mount this element, cutouts are made in the edges of the bricks installed on three sides, and a layer is removed from the outer brick, making its thickness smaller. Next, a valve is fixed to the prepared site on the clay solution.
	The 20th row is laid out according to the presented scheme. At this stage, the installed valve is closed, and channel openings are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is crimped for a smooth flow of heated air. A row will require 15 bricks.
	On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and the hole for removing steam from the cooking chamber are combined into a common space. The laying is carried out around the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and the second vertical channel is also framed. And the corner interior brick cut to ensure smooth escape of steam into the chimney. For laying, you need to prepare 11 bricks.
	Further, on the same row, the resulting space is covered with steel strips, which will provide the basis for installing a metal plate and laying the next rows.
	The next step, which is carried out on the same row, is the installation of a roofing iron plate. With the help of it, a chimney opening is formed, located on the opposite side of the window for steam to escape from the hob.
	On the 22nd row, a metal plate is covered with brickwork. Further laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only the openings of the channels remain open. Then with outside oven, a metal corner is installed, which will strengthen the front part of the bottom of the drying chamber. 15 bricks are required for laying a row.
	23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its back wall is made of brick, installed on its side - it will separate the chamber from the opening of the chimney channel. 12 bricks are used.
	On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels, as well as the drying chamber, are formed.
	25th row - work continues according to the scheme, masonry is made of 12 bricks. Second brick rear wall The drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first one, on the side.
	26th row. At this stage, the vertical channels are prepared to be combined into one space, therefore, in order to direct the smoke in the right direction, the bricks in the vertical channels are cut at a slight angle. For laying a row, 11 bricks are required.
	On the 27th row, with the help of masonry, two vertical channels are combined, and a cleaning door is installed on this common chamber. The rear wall of the drying chamber is raised by another brick, which is installed on the side. The row consists of 11 bricks.
	On the 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, laying is carried out according to a scheme similar to the 27th row. And then three metal corners overlap the space of the drying chamber.
	On the 29th row, almost the entire area is covered with brickwork, which is mounted in accordance with the scheme. Only the hole above the drying chamber is left open, where the valve will be installed into the cuts made on the bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut off, making its thickness smaller. A valve is installed in the equipped "nest" on the clay solution. The row consists of 17 bricks.
	The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely covers the surface of the furnace. The only exception is the chimney hole, the size of which is equal to half a brick.
	On the 31 ÷ 32nd rows, a chimney begins to form.

If it is decided to do it yourself, then the work should be carried out slowly, approaching each stage of the process with all responsibility and maximum accuracy. Subject to following all the recommendations and the provided ordering scheme, even a novice master will be able to cope with this work and gain experience for new creations.

And at the end of the article - another example of laying a miniature brick oven for a country house.

Video: compact brick oven for a small kitchen

As a rule, small brick ovens are installed. You can easily make such stoves on your own, having previously studied the technology of laying stoves.

Choosing a brick oven for the home

First you need to decide on a specific type of furnace. And for this, study in detail existing types stoves and choose the most suitable option for you:

Dutch channel type ovens are small and easy to build. The efficiency is not high, about 40%. These ovens operate in slow burning mode.
Swedish brick oven chamber-channel type has a higher efficiency compared to the Dutch ones. dimensions are also not large, but the design itself is more complicated in execution. In addition, all building materials for this furnace must be selected more carefully.
Russian oven has the highest efficiency, over 75%, but the laying of such a furnace is very difficult, and you are unlikely to be able to do without the help of professionals.
Brick heating and cooking stove- a more common and simple heating option. This oven requires a small amount of building materials, and simple design you can do it yourself.

If you are building a stove for the first time, then for self-building, choose a Dutch oven or a cooking brick oven, because building Swedish ovens is more difficult and requires some experience in this matter. As for the Russian stove, you should not take on its construction on your own.

The next step is to determine what size your oven will be and how many rooms it will heat. IN small house the stove can be placed in the wall between rooms.

The main condition for the placement and construction of the furnace is very simple: direct heating from the walls of the furnace must cover a large number of rooms.

If this is not possible, it is better to use furnaces with built-in hot water coils. With this type of stove, the remaining rooms will be heated by special ones.

Brick for laying the oven

For extended service life and correct operation furnaces, it is necessary to carefully approach the choice of building materials, namely bricks. In addition to strength and durability, its thermophysical properties also depend on the choice, providing warmth in your home.

For a Swedish stove it is very important to choose high-quality building materials, but for a Dutch stove the quality requirements are not so high.

Heating brick ovens used to be made of red brick, but today it is possible to distinguish 2 main types:

red ceramic brick grade 150;
refractory fireclay brick.

The bricks must be the same size;
The use of hollow bricks or silicate bricks is strictly prohibited. Full-bodied ceramic brick is required;
For cladding, choose decorative bricks;
For the combustion chamber, choose refractory fireclay bricks.

Instructions and drawing for ordering brick ovens

Now let's take a closer look at the masonry itself. All sides of the masonry brick have their own name, and they determine the type of masonry. The most common masonry of brick ovens is tychkovy and spoon. Those. from the front side brick wall we will only be able to see these two sides of the brick. There is also bedding, but it is extremely rare to find it, because. it is not used for bricklaying furnaces. When laying the vertical seams between the bricks should not match.

Brick laying of furnaces begins from the first row, constantly checking according to the scheme where the masonry is located. In this work, haste will be a bad helper, the main thing is quality. If you are new to construction, then it is better to initially lay each row without mortar, referring to the drawings. And only after making sure that the entire laying is correct, apply mortar to the bricks and lay them finally.

The thickness of the seam should be at least 2 mm, but not more than 3 mm, so it is better to remove excess clay immediately. In some cases, the thickness of the seam is even 5 mm. The brick must be placed immediately in the right place, its further movement and tapping is unacceptable.

Excess clay mixture removed from bricks cannot be reused.

Below are the instructions for masonry:

For laying a brick oven for the house with your own hands, you will need a lot of free time. Each brick has its own importance. If you approach the issue qualitatively and responsibly, then the end result will be warmth and comfort in your home.

This article contains an understandable, very detailed photo instruction for laying a brick oven with your own hands, tips on how not to make a mistake when choosing the necessary materials and how to properly place the stove in a private house for optimal heating of a larger area.

Options for installing a stove in the house

Options for placing a brick oven

The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking is a budget housing option for a bachelor or a small family. Pluses - a warm couch and the possibility of placing a dryer in the hallway.

Important: it is worth taking care of the external insulation of the house in advance, because it greatly increases the efficiency of stove heating.

Selection of bricks, sand, mortar

In order for the oven to serve for a long time, you need to correctly select all the materials. Bricks are of three types:

Ceramic - can be used to build a furnace.
Silicate - not suitable at all in this case, even double M150.
Refractory - ideal, but they are more often covered only with a firebox and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.

Tip: when choosing a brick for the stove, you need to completely abandon its hollow types.

The solution is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, special fireclay clay is required. Some stove-makers still make their own solution from river sand with a grain of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5: 1) and water in the old fashioned way. In this case, it is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called greasy clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy ready-made oven mixture in the store, having prepared it according to the instructions.

From the fittings, you need to purchase grates, blower and furnace doors, soot cleaners, valves or dampers.

Preparation, list of tools

Before starting work, you need to determine and mark out the place that the new stove will take.

The chimney pipe must be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.

The furnace foundation requires preliminary waterproofing, in area it must exceed the area of \u200b\u200bthe stove.

During the laying of a new row, it is necessary to control the absolute verticality of the walls.

For the construction of a brick oven, the following tools are needed:

plumb;
trowel;
roulette;
putty knife;
Bulgarian;
knitting wire;
building level;
metal strips, corners;
containers for cement and clay mortar.

Step-by-step instructions with a photo for laying the stove

Different stove-makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that have come with years of experience. Here is information about a fairly simple way to create a fireplace stove for heating a two-story house, the process will not seem extremely complicated even for beginner stove-makers.