Plastering the gas block with cement mortar. How to plaster aerated concrete: the technology of applying plaster on aerated concrete walls

Often, developers have a question about how to plaster aerated concrete outside. Before starting work, it is recommended to determine the important characteristics and, based on this, choose the best finishing option.

Aerated concrete plaster must meet the basic requirements - the mixture adheres tightly to the surface and has good adhesion. The finishing layer is durable, frost-resistant while having the required level of vapor permeability and water repellency.

When to plaster

External plastering is recommended after completion finishing works in a buiding. It is generally accepted that if the surface of the gas blocks is not protected from the street, it will absorb moisture. This is not so, the primed walls can stand the whole winter without a protective layer; when the climate changes in spring, moisture from the surface will evaporate. In the opposite case, when the house is processed from the facade, the evaporation vapors will be directed into the room, which will lead to the appearance of dampness.


Note! An exception is the option of building a house on the seashore or a reservoir. When it is required to protect external walls from the influence of a humid climate and winds.

Before plastering, the walls of the gas blocks must dry well. If during the construction process, cement mortar was used, which has the ability to absorb moisture. For this reason, outdoor decoration will be ineffective during the rainy season. But especially dangerous for walls is cold water, which then turns into ice. In the process of melting, the structure of aerated concrete begins to collapse.

Insulation of the facade

If the building is properly insulated, then you can quickly heat the room and save money on heating costs. It is recommended to insulate the outside with mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene or other options. For example, insulation and plastering of the facade of a house can be replaced by building an additional brick wall or treat with liquid polyurethane foam.


Types of plasters

There are several types of plaster that are suitable for the treatment of aerated concrete walls. There are certain requirements for the composition of the mixture for outdoor work.

  1. The material must be permeable and at the same time its coefficient must be higher than that of the treated surface - aerated concrete or a sealant.
  2. The plaster must be frost and temperature resistant.
  3. To prevent cracking, the applied layer must be elastic.
  4. The plaster must have strong adhesion properties with aerated concrete.

Mineral

How to plaster aerated concrete walls? Professionals and private builders recommend using mineral-based plasters. They are among the thin-layer compounds specially designed for finishing aerated concrete. Such solutions are made by hand, they have an affordable cost, good vapor permeability and low weight.

The ready-made formulations include the following components:

  • lime;
  • white cement;
  • marble chips and other fillers.

The color palette of such plaster mixes is limited. They can be easily painted, the only caveat is the use of vapor-permeable coloring compositions. Painting is able to protect the coating from moisture, because a humid environment can destroy mineral plasters.

Silicate

This type of building plaster is based on potassium water glass, which is a binder.


Advantages of a silicate mixture:

  1. Ease of application;
  2. Resistance to moisture influences;
  3. Water vapor permeability;
  4. If necessary, it can be painted in any color;
  5. Acceptable price;
  6. Long service life (up to 25 years);
  7. Decorative qualities.

Silicone

Plastering aerated concrete blocks is better with front silicone plaster. It possesses high technical and operational characteristics, surpasses others plaster mix.

The advantages of silicone plasters include:

  • water repellent properties;
  • building material is easily applied with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists;
  • plaster has a high degree of resistance to weathering and vapor permeability;
  • Long service life;
  • Fillers have a different texture;
  • The material is elastic.

Acrylic

The material has high decorative qualities and durability. A big disadvantage of acrylic plaster for processing aerated concrete and other cellular textures is low level vapor permeability. For this reason, condensation forms in the inner layer of the plastered surface. As a result, with such an impact, surface deformation occurs - delamination and cracking.


Cement-sand

Cement plaster is not suitable for external aerated concrete surfaces. For what reasons, this popular building material is not suitable:

  1. The mortar does not adhere to the smooth surface of aerated concrete due to insufficient adhesion properties. The mixture has a high density and high weight;
  2. When a cement mortar is applied to the surface, aerated concrete absorbs moisture, and the adhesion of materials is weakened. As a result of such rapid drying, the integrity of the layer is destroyed;
  3. Low vapor permeability cement mixtures- inconsistency building codes, and violation of optimal microclimatic indicators in living quarters.

If cement plaster used for interior work, it will protect aerated concrete walls from steam penetration into them.


Important! Expanded polystyrene and polystyrene are not recommended for processing aerated concrete surfaces.

Gypsum

The plaster in the base, which includes gypsum, has the following positive qualities:

  • dries quickly;
  • the solution does not shrink;
  • the mixture lays down smoothly;
  • no finishing coat required.

Cons of plastering walls with gypsum:

  • average level of vapor permeability;
  • required large quantity water in comparison with special mixtures, about 10-15 liters per 1 bag of 25 kg;
  • the surface will get wet quickly after rain and snow;
  • spots appear on the surface that need to be painted over.


Facade

The mixture is most effective for processing, both external walls and indoors, the material is easily applied with your own hands. Plaster has a number of positive qualitiesgood adhesion with base, attractive appearance... Including the material has indicators of vapor permeability identical to that of gas blocks. When choosing plaster for building aerated concrete, it is better to choose a high-quality special mixture, this will simplify the process of finishing the house.

If there is a choice of plaster or drywall, which is better for aerated concrete inside the house. The following facts should be taken into account: the walls made of gas blocks are even, and they do not require alignment. Accordingly, the plaster will be cheaper, the solution will lie in an even and beautiful layer.

Self-finishing

We plaster aerated concrete outside with plaster intended for outdoor use. There are two options for applying the mixture - in a thick layer or in several thin layers, which are applied no more than 3 layers and no more than 1 cm each.

Work order:

  • the surface is prepared for plastering - dirt is removed;
  • then you should do the hanging of the surface with your own hands along the lighthouses;
  • spray is applied - the first layer of plaster coating;
  • a primer is applied and leveled;
  • cutting corners;
  • finishing of slopes;
  • a covering layer is applied;
  • the surface is rubbed.

Work technology outside

  1. If necessary, a heater is mounted for blocks under the plaster.
  2. Wall preparation - leveling the surface to reduce material consumption and application thickness.
  3. Before you start plastering the walls, aerated concrete must be treated with a primer. For this, compositions are used intended for the fine-mesh structure of materials.
  4. Application of a thin layer of plaster mixture for aerated concrete surfaces - up to 5 mm. This base will be used for attaching the net.


It should be noted right away that plastering aerated concrete blocks from the outside adhesive solutions unacceptable. Because the glue won't do the job. In order to protect and level the surfaces, it is recommended to use specially designed mixtures that meet all performance requirements.

When plastering aerated concrete facade is carried out, it is recommended to follow some rules, which are described below.

  • after the building is erected, it is necessary to withstand a certain period of time so that the internal moisture evaporates naturally;
  • the brand of plaster must be suitable for outdoor use;
  • subsequence renovation works- first inside the house, then outside;
  • the temperature regime must correspond to from +8 to +30 С0 - for external finishing;
  • Building rules that should be observed in relation to the increase in thermal conductivity coefficients. Each mounted or applied material to the gas block should be considered.


Reinforcement

When asked whether it is necessary to reinforce the plaster, and whether a mesh is needed. The answer is simple, since the layer of aerated concrete coating plaster can vary from 5 to 15 mm. If the layer exceeds 10 mm, a metal mesh with a fine mesh texture is used as a reinforcing layer. For example, a mesh with a wire diameter of 0.1 mm and a mesh size of 0.16 x 0.16 mm, or fiberglass mesh with cells of 5x5 cm, is suitable.

You need to mount the mesh with an overlap of 5 cm; perforated corners with a mesh are used for the corners of the house. This method will help prevent the formation of cracks in the plaster after the building has shrunk. It is better to install the mesh into the applied solution with a spatula. Especially important point is the installation of the mesh in places with a high voltage level - the zone of windows and doors.

Advice! If you attach the mesh to a dry surface, the result will be zero. Because the mesh must be fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws, and then a layer of mortar must be applied. Otherwise, the non-fixed mesh will move along with the putty.


Work order:

  1. Align the plaster layer with the mesh using vapor-permeable plaster.
  2. It is necessary to wait until the first layer is completely dry. Otherwise, it will fall off under the weight of the next layer. This technique provides for a thin-layer application of the mixture. It will take three to four days to completely dry. Accordingly, the thicker the layer, the longer to wait for it to dry. Checking whether the surface is dry is carried out with water. Having sprinkled the liquid on the surface, it quickly absorbed - this means that it is time to start further work.
  3. A second layer of plaster is applied, which is considered leveling. Therefore, the layer must be even and smooth;
  4. The third is applied finishing layer plaster, and, if necessary, it will require subsequent grouting.
  5. Surface painting, materials for outdoor use or applying putty.
  6. Treatment with a water repellent. Experts recommend applying this solution 12 months after painting and completing all work on the facade cladding. A water repellent agent gives any coating additional water-repellent properties.


Note! When the plaster layer dries, it must be protected from the influence of such undesirable factors. environment like moisture, snow, rain.

Putty

When deciding whether to putty aerated concrete, it is recommended to learn about the types building mixtures... There are 3 types of product varieties on the market, which are intended for finishing... By and large, this is a facade plaster intended for thin-layer finishing of an already plastered surface, differing only in composition. Ready mixes are sold in buckets and are silicate, silicone and acrylic.

Important! When plastering outside the house, it is recommended to use only steam-permeable building materials. This will provide not only a reliable finish, but also serve as a decoration for the building.

Aerated concrete blocks for building houses are becoming more and more popular: they are light, even, keep heat well due to their porous structure. But their high vapor permeability imposes serious restrictions on the choice finishing materials and the technology of their use.

In particular, before plastering aerated concrete outside, you need to finish all the "wet" internal work, choose a suitable composition and calculate the thickness of its application. All this will be discussed in more detail in the article.

Features of aerated concrete and its finishing

In terms of its composition, aerated concrete is similar to ordinary concrete: it includes cement, sand, lime and water. But the addition of aluminum powder, which is a blowing agent, gives it a specific porous structure. Moreover, unlike foam concrete, the pores are open, which increases the vapor permeability of the material.

Open pores on the surface of building blocks cannot be left untreated for many reasons.

For example:

  • Impact of atmospheric precipitation. The wetting of the outer layer reduces thermal insulation properties walls, leads to the appearance of cracks on the surface and even their destruction when exposed to temperature changes;
  • Airborne dust settling... She, like rainwater, has an acidic character, and prolonged exposure to an acidic environment causes a darkening of the surface and leads to a deterioration in the appearance of the blocks.

That is why the instruction requires mandatory exterior decoration such surfaces. It can be performed different ways, including the installation of hinged ventilated facades, brick cladding with a ventilation gap, etc.

But most often for protective and decorative finishing special facade plaster for aerated concrete. Its main purpose is to protect the walls from the factors listed above, but the coating should not reduce their vapor permeability, preventing the diffusion of water vapor from the inside out.

Correctly plastered walls are a guarantee quality construction at home. Many people want to know how the internal plastering of aerated concrete walls should be carried out. The article will tell you all the nuances and sequence of decorative wall plaster.

Aerated concrete blocks are most often used in the construction of low-rise buildings.

Their main characteristics are presented in the table:

In the manufacture of aerated concrete blocks, aluminum powder is added to the solution, which acts as a gas generator. This creates an open cellular structure, which increases the vapor permeability of the blocks. Such characteristics must be taken into account when plastering aerated concrete inside or outside the house.

Plastering of aerated concrete should be started with inside building, and then its facade. This is due to the fact that the water used in "wet works" will go out through the blocks and the available ventilation.

Water vapor at negative temperature the environment will condense inside the walls of the house and on the border of blocks with exterior decoration (see. Exterior decoration of a house made of aerated concrete is a responsible business). When freezing, moisture will lead to inevitable cracking of the plaster layer, and then peeling it off.

Advice: It is necessary to perform plastering of aerated concrete walls first inside the building.

Types of plaster

Internal decorative plaster for aerated concrete walls it can be:

  • Vapor permeable... It includes mixtures made on a gypsum basis. The best option- plaster mix Aegis TM35, which includes lime.

The mixture has a minimum weight, sufficiently high adhesion properties, good strength of the hardened coating layer.

  • Vapor barrier... Differs in the presence of a large amount of polymer impurities. It includes: plastic decorative interior plaster and ordinary cement-sand mixture without additives.

The best option than plastering the gas block inside is the usual inexpensive gypsum mixture used in conjunction with a vapor barrier primer.

The article popularly talks about the widely used building materials, lightweight concrete, basic characteristics and finishing methods using traditional technologies, plastering elements of the house.

Aerated concrete wall plaster

Plastering of internal and external structures made of lightweight concrete is the most used method of protection from external climatic conditions and giving the house an original respectable appearance, as well as internal comfort.

The prevalence of technology is due to the ability to inexpensively and on their own to carry out a set of works on the preparation and finishing of structures and to achieve the desired results.

Special characteristics of aerated concrete blocks

Aerated concrete belongs to aerated concrete, consists of quicklime, cement, sand and gas-forming aluminum powder. When mixing the components and water, a reaction occurs with the release of gas, forming voids, the number of which determines the weight, density, thermal conductivity of concrete and the scope of use:

  • Concrete with a density of 300-400 (kg / m3) is used for thermal insulation.
  • Density 500-900 (kg / m3) can be used for the installation of partitions and walls.
  • With a density of 1000-1200 kg / m3, concrete is used for the manufacture of load-bearing walls.


Concrete has gained popularity in housing construction due to its properties:

  1. Low thermal conductivity allows it to be used as a heat-insulating substance.
  2. Frost resistance can reach 150 cycles; among lightweight concrete, only expanded clay concrete has greater durability.
  3. High fire resistance.

Of the negative qualities for construction, hygroscopicity can be noted, which means that aerated concrete needs to be coated.

The hygroscopicity of aerated concrete requires insulation from moisture.

Preparation of gas silicate blocks indoors for plastering

In aerated concrete, the amount of cement is up to 60 percent, in gas silicate no more than 14, lime is twice as much, the rest is sand. The percentage is important, because the more cement, the higher the strength, and the base must be stronger than the coating, otherwise it will flake off. That is, the decoration of the house must be done with a lime-cement composition.

When finishing, you need to remember that the base must be stronger than the coating.

The main function of plastering surfaces made of gas silicate blocks is to form a vapor-impermeable barrier and limit moisture absorption. To improve the adhesion of the coating to the base, the structural elements are covered with a deep penetration primer, the first layer is applied generously, better with a spray gun, after drying, you need to paint over again.

After priming, given that the base is weak, it is necessary to carry out reinforcement to prevent the appearance of cracks.

The draft reinforcement layer is made from the glue on which the blocks were laid, experienced craftsmen use tile glue for this, as a cheaper composition.

The use of glue instead of a conventional solution is associated with polymer additives in the composition, which provide strong adhesion with a thin layer of the mixture.

After applying a thin layer of glue, 2-7 millimeters thick, a fiberglass mesh is embedded in it, which fixes the blocks and serves as a reliable base for the coating. The mesh is overlapped on the applied adhesive and pressed in with a notched trowel.

It is advisable to start applying the solution in 5-7 days, when the reinforced layer gains strength.

Plastering gas silicate blocks inside a building: technologies used

Gas silicate structures are protected in three stages:

1.Lime plastering cement mortar.

2. Priming.

3. Putty.

A lime-cement or lime-gypsum mortar with a thickness of no more than one centimeter is applied to the reinforced surface.


Manual plastering technology is common, if the wall is large and uneven, beacons are installed and the applied layer is equal to a broad rule.

The solution is kneaded in a bucket, small tank or trough, water is poured into the poured mixture and stirred to the required consistency, you need to cook a little, the gypsum sets after 20 minutes, the cement takes a little more time, so the amount should be sufficient for production during this time. It can be leveled immediately after covering, the last step is grouting.

After finishing with a long rail, the flatness of the surface is checked, irregularities within 5-7 millimeters will be invisible.

Do I need to plaster the gas block outside

The need to protect the aerated concrete facade is due to its properties:

  1. The hygroscopicity will lead to the saturation of the gas blocks with water, which, in case of frost, will cause the destruction of the structure.
  2. Mechanical impact will cause chips, dents, cracks.
  3. The material has a porous structure with open pores, through which the circulating air carries away heat.
  4. Rough aerated concrete house looks unpresentable.

For aerated concrete structures, the danger is the accumulation of moisture inside the blocks, which, when the temperature drops, freezes and destroys the block from the inside. Therefore, the protection of external surfaces is mandatory, the method of protection by plastering is widely used for various reasons, one of which is the low cost of this technology.

Materials used for outdoor work

To apply protective equipment outside, substances are required with the following qualities:

  • permeable to water vapor;
  • not wet;
  • with good grip;
  • frost resistant.

The main types of mixtures for finishing aerated concrete outside:

  • Acrylic for aerated concrete, reinforce loaded structures, plinth.
  • Silicate, include liquid glass;
  • Silicone based on organic silicon polymers, well suited for facades, but high price;
  • Plaster mix;
  • Lime-cement composition.

Do-it-yourself internal plaster of the gas block: a feature of the work

Due to the high hygroscopicity of the material, plastering inside the house has its own characteristics.

Plastering surfaces must necessarily provide for the reinforcement process. It is recommended to use a fiberglass mesh that does not degrade in alkaline environment.

The surface should be painted twice with a deep penetration primer.

Apply a thin layer of plaster about 5 millimeters thick and sink the mesh into it. After drying, apply a base coat using beacons.

Which is the best plaster


If vapor permeability is required for kitchen, bathroom or sauna rooms, mixtures of gypsum with perlite sand are used. Silicate is also suitable, but it must be borne in mind that such mixtures are incompatible with acrylic, silicone, latex materials.

For use on aerated concrete, you can use cement-lime mixtures, which do not require wall priming.

Set of tools

Finishing aerated concrete surfaces requires the following tools:

  1. Spatulas.
  2. Scraper to remove dirt and debris.
  3. Metal brushes.
  4. Hammer, for knocking down irregularities, protruding mortar.
  5. Sandpaper.
  6. Primer brushes, rollers.
  7. Master OK.
  8. Tank for mixing the solution.
  9. Mixer for solution preparation.
  10. Falcon, a shield where the mixture is applied.
  11. Grout grater.
  12. Half-eater.
  13. The rule of thumb is to align corners.

How to plaster: work progress


Ready-made mixtures are great for decoration, but they have a high cost, therefore, for do-it-yourself work, a wall preparation technology is offered, after which you can safely use any composition.

For preparation, you will need tile adhesive, fiberglass mesh, and a deep penetration primer. It is necessary to fill all chips and cracks with a compound for laying aerated concrete blocks, then remove dust and debris from the wall with a cheek and paint over with a deep penetration primer twice.

Tile glue is diluted and applied to the surface with a thickness of 5 millimeters, the mesh is pressed on top with a notched trowel. When the layer is completely dry, plaster is applied in the usual way, you can use any solution.

The costs for this technology will be an order of magnitude less than when using ready-made plasters.

How long can you go to the next stages of wall decoration


After the end, the beacons are removed, the dents formed are subsequently sealed with putty.

To proceed to the next types of finishes, you must wait until the walls are completely dry at a constant temperature. Drying will take about a month warm season so that temperature changes do not lead to cracking or delamination. It is undesirable to speed up the process; if necessary, a heater is used.

Internal and external finishing of the house important stage construction works, on the quality of which the durability, comfort of living and the aesthetic appearance of the house depend. For finishing work, there are many modern materials and technology, but traditional methods, do not lose popularity and are still relevant at the present time. These methods allow you to achieve the required results at low cost and labor intensity.

Useful video

Aerated concrete has long been loved by private developers for its excellent performance and very attractive cost. However, before starting construction from it, you need to study all the "pitfalls" in this matter in order to build a high-quality and durable structure. So, when planning the finishing, it is important to know how to plaster aerated concrete inside the house, and what materials are prohibited. What are the reasons for such restrictions and what kind of finish is ideal for gas silicate blocks, we will consider below.

Features of finishing aerated concrete walls

Before plunging headlong into the question fine finishing walls, you first need to understand the structure of gas blocks, from which the quality of the future home will completely depend.

The main way to obtain this cellular material is to introduce into the composition concrete mortar special additives that react to form air bubbles that tend to escape. They simply sprinkle the aerated concrete body not only with voids, but also with thin channels, forming a surface that resembles natural pumice in its texture. Such a structure has excellent positive properties with the correct final processing of blocks:

  • high sound absorption coefficient;
  • good level of thermal insulation;
  • "Breathing" walls create a unique microclimate in the room, keeping warmth in winter period years and coolness even in the most intense heat;
  • the porous structure of aerated concrete is not susceptible to the emergence and maintenance of colonies of fungal and other microorganisms, which, as a result of their vital activity, destroy the walls.
The porous structure of aerated concrete

But despite these wonderful performance characteristics, aerated concrete also has disadvantages due to its structure:

  • the porous structure is subject to increased water absorption, which is fraught with rapid destruction of blocks;
  • products with the highest density index, and, accordingly, strength, do not differ in resistance to mechanical stress, leading to spalling and cracking;
  • an inhomogeneous structure that retains heat so well is very sensitive to wind. Unprotected bare aerated concrete walls are strongly blown through, and it is cold inside them, even despite competently organized system heating.

Taking into account all these negative circumstances, we can come to the conclusion that aerated concrete walls need mandatory finishing. But it must be done as competently as possible so as not to disrupt the microcirculation inside the walls, which can lead to destructive processes.

Vapor permeability

The porous structure, about which so much has been said, has another property - good vapor permeability, which is the key to the durability of any aerated concrete structure.

In the process of life, people release a large amount of all kinds of moisture into the atmosphere. Just imagine how it saturates the air when ironing, washing, drying clothes, cooking or taking a bath. Of course, some of the vapors formed are removed using artificial and natural ventilation, but the bulk falls on the walls. In its pure form without finishing, aerated concrete perfectly passes moisture without retaining it inside its body.

It is another matter if there is a facade and internal cladding, and it is mandatory for such wall material... Therefore, both finishes should complement each other, maximizing the natural removal of moisture.

For example, a ventilated façade system was chosen as an exterior finish. In this case, the provided ventilation gap does not disturb the natural moisture balance in the aerated concrete wall, leaving complete freedom couples go outside. In such circumstances, you can use any plaster for aerated concrete.


Ventilated facade - best view exterior decoration for aerated concrete walls

In the case of wall insulation, you need to pay attention to the characteristics of the base material. For example, mineral wool fully complies with the requirements - it qualitatively insulates and does not interfere with the removal of moisture. As in the previous example, steam circulation is not disturbed, and the wall remains dry, so you can choose any plaster mixture.

How to maintain a natural moisture balance

But often for one reason or another facade decoration it is arranged bypassing the basic rules, or, even worse, the insulation was carried out with sheets of polystyrene (its vapor transmission capacity is practically zero) without a device ventilation gap... This leads to the accumulation of moisture in the thickness of the wall, which over time manifests itself in damp corners, the collection of condensate in the room - and these are the first harbingers of the appearance of fungal mold.


Consequence of violation of vapor permeability of aerated concrete walls

Such a serious defect can be corrected only by using materials for interior decoration, whose ability to pass vapors is much lower than that of aerated concrete. This shielding method will prevent moisture build-up inside the walls. Best to use:

  • paints with a special composition;
  • waterproof wallpaper;
  • cement-sandy plaster mortars of dense consistency.

But in this case, the importance of the device increases significantly. high-quality ventilation so that the accumulated moisture does not settle on the walls and indoors, forming a greenhouse effect.

In order not to complicate the construction process, it will be most correct to initially produce interior decoration. After all, the repair involves a large volume of evaporated moisture, which simply needs to go outside, and it is best if he does it through the "bare" gas silicate walls.

And one more little nuance concerning the timing of the processing of walls made of aerated concrete blocks. Any cellular materials give good shrinkage, which, in turn, negatively affects any finishing cladding - this usually manifests itself in cracking and peeling of the decorative layer.

Therefore, it is recommended to carry out both internal and facade finishing processes at least six months after the complete construction of the building box and the roof device. It is best to plan this phase of construction in the spring - summer period... As mentioned above - first, the interior decoration is carried out, after the end of all processes, in a month you can start processing the facade.

What plaster to prefer for interior decoration

As noted above, aerated concrete blocks differ high degree water absorption, which can lead to excessive drying of the applied plaster layer. This is especially evident on gypsum compositions and cement-based mortars - fast drying, cracking and crumbling. If we go from the opposite direction, and excessively saturate the wall with water, then it will simply be impossible to plaster it, since the applied layer will not be retained on the aerated concrete base.

Choosing the right materials will help solve this problem:

  • deep penetration primers with a special composition. Applying them, the main thing is not to overdo it and not to oversaturate the surface of the wall with moisture. Therefore, before use, read the instructions and follow them strictly;
  • special mixtures intended for plastering of gas silicate blocks. Their composition perfectly protects such "capricious" porous surfaces. But this is subject to the dilution of the plaster in correct proportions with water. Only following the instructions for use from the manufacturer will help not to make a mistake in this matter.

But that's not all. The cellular surface does not have good adhesion properties. For this reason, it is necessary to initially apply a rough layer of plaster with a thickness of at least 5 mm. But even this finish is prone to cracking and flaking. To prevent this, a plaster mesh is used. Fiberglass or polyurethane is the best choice due to its excellent alkaline resistance and long service life. Only after the application of such a reinforced plaster layer and its complete drying, you can safely proceed to the final finish.

The best plaster mixes

Having figured out a little about what parameters it should answer finishing mixture, let's look at the most popular and effective types:

  • silicate-based plasters, namely " liquid glass". They are perfectly combined with aerated concrete surface, especially in terms of vapor permeability. But there is a small "but". Such plaster mixes are incompatible with many types of final finishes, for example, based on acrylic, latex, silicone;
  • gypsum plasters with perlite sand. They are ideal for aerated concrete wall surfaces, as indicated on the packaging. Any material for finishing is suitable for them;
  • cement-lime-based plaster mixes with the addition of optimizing additives. Such compositions were invented specifically for finishing cellular material, even without pre-primer... Internal plaster of walls made of aerated concrete of such a plan has not only excellent adhesion properties, but is also applicable for both rough and finishing.

The use of such plastering compounds is ideal for gas silicate walls and, if desired, with their help, you can apply the leveling layer yourself. Like all specialized materials that have been improved for a single application, these mixes have a very high cost, which adds up to a decent amount in the end.

But there is an alternative that will economically resolve the issue of conducting internal plaster- application of the usual cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1: 5. But to use it in relation to aerated concrete surfaces must be extremely careful and not overdo it with the addition of water to the working mixture.

Self-plastering process

Even if you decide that the plastering of aerated concrete walls inside the premises will be done by masters, then it will not hurt to know the process of its implementation. After all, even professionals can sometimes make mistakes, and external control will help to avoid annoying shortcomings.

Preparation for plastering

The process algorithm for preparing walls for plastering is quite simple in execution, in which it is impossible to make a mistake. Therefore, you can do it yourself. This will require:

  • or plastic 100-120 cm wide;
  • adhesive for ceramic tiles;
  • deep penetration soil;
  • notched trowel with 5-6 mm notches.

Step 1. Carefully inspect the walls for building "jambs". For example, cracks and chips are subject to putty and alignment to the general level of the walls. For these purposes, a regular repair solution is suitable, however, if not much of it is required, then it is best to use glue specially designed for aerated concrete.

Step 2. After the restored parts have dried, brush all walls with a stiff brush to remove dirt and dust.

Step 3. Apply the primer in one coat. This can be done in a convenient way for you, for example, with a roller or brush. To reduce the consumption of the primer solution experienced builders use conventional sprayers. If these are not at hand, then you can just as well use an old model of a vacuum cleaner, the principle of which is to blow out air. Only after high-quality drying of the first layer can you start applying the second.

Stage 4. When the primer is completely dry, you can safely dilute the glue, according to the instructions and cut plaster mesh into strips, the length of which should be equal to the height of the walls.

Step 5. Starting from the bottom, throw the prepared glue onto the wall, gradually moving upward. The thickness should be approximately equal to a layer of 5 mm, and the width should be slightly larger than the width of the mesh.

Step 6. Apply a strip of plasterboard and press down until it adheres securely to the wall. Now you can level the adhesive layer with a notched trowel so that the direction of the grooves is horizontal. This improves adhesion to both the wall and future plaster.

Plastering

After the reinforced layer is completely dry, you can safely proceed to the main plastering process.

Stage 1. Wielding building level, profiles are exposed - beacons.

Stage 2. The working solution is mixed according to the instructions. If the choice fell on a traditional cement-sand composition, then it is taken in a ratio of 1: 5, a plasticizer is added and kneaded to a thick consistency.


Leveling the solution to the beacons

Stage 3. Between two beacons, a solution is thrown over the entire height of the wall. The rule aligns the resulting layer to the required smoothness level. Once again, attach the rule to the wall and check if there are any gaps between them. If there is, add mortar and level it, no - great, plaster all the walls in a similar way.

The described plaster technology is quite simple and even an inexperienced master can use it with success. The main thing is to choose the right way to plaster the walls of aerated concrete inside the house.