However, in order for the products to stay in it for a long time, it is necessary to ensure effective ventilation. In the article we will tell you how to properly make a hood in the cellar.

How it works?

Natural ventilation must necessarily have 2 pipes: supply and exhaust. It is best to use a galvanized or asbestos pipe when constructing a structure. It is also important to correctly calculate the diameter: 1 sq.m of the basement should be provided with 26 sq.m. see duct area.

Necessary for fresh air to enter the cellar. For greater efficiency, it must be installed in the corner, which is located on the opposite side from the installation site of the hood.

Important! Choose a place for installing the supply air duct in such a way that winter time he didn't get covered in snow.

The supply air duct should be placed in such a way that its open end is at a distance of 40-60 cm from the floor. It should completely penetrate the floors and rise above the roof by about 80 cm.

Thanks to it, there will be an outflow of stale air from the cellar. It is recommended to install it along the corner so that the lower end is under the ceiling.
It should pass in a vertical position through the entire cellar, roof and go beyond it by 50 cm.

In order to collect less condensate or frost in the duct, it is insulated - another one is inserted into it, and the distance between them is filled with insulation.

Ventilation in a cellar with two pipes is carried out due to the different specific gravity of warm air inside and cold outside.

If there is a large temperature difference, there is a risk of a draft, which will lead to freezing of the cellar.
To prevent this, during construction, gate valves are used on the air ducts, which allow you to adjust the air circulation.

Types of systems

Today, two types of ventilation systems are installed: natural and forced. The choice of one or another option is influenced by the volume and layout of the basement.

Forced

The design of the forced system includes pipes, but in order to ensure forced air movement, fans are built into them.

Did you know? The need and benefits of ventilation have been known for centuries. However, then there were no special structures - just airing was carried out.

Typically, the installation site of the fan is the exhaust duct. With its help, it is possible to achieve an artificial vacuum in the cellar, thanks to which fresh air can enter the room through the inlet.

Depending on the volume of the cellar, fans of different capacities are selected. If the basement has complex configurations, fans are installed on both channels.
When constructing a forced exhaust, you cannot do without the help of a specialist who will help you correctly calculate the inflow and outflow of air flows, the diameters of the required air ducts and the power of the fans.

Natural

The main idea of ​​creating a natural hood is to take into account the difference in pressure and temperature in the cellar and beyond. It is very important to correctly determine where the pipes will be located.
It is better to place the air inlet at a height of 25-30 cm from the floor, while the exhaust should not be lower than 10-20 cm from the ceiling. If you place it lower, dampness and mold will soon appear on the ceiling.

How to make calculations?

If you decide to make a hood in the cellar with your own hands, you should pay close attention to the calculations related to the diameters of the pipes.

During construction professional ventilation are used complex calculations and formulas that are inappropriate for homemade design. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the methodology that will be suitable for the construction of home-made ventilation.

Important! Be sure to cover the opening of the intake pipe with a metal mesh, as without it, rodents and insects can enter the cellar.

S=3x2=6 sq.m.

Given the ratio that we took as a basis, the cross-sectional area of ​​the pipe channel will be:

T=6x26=156 sq.cm.

Radius ventilation duct calculated by the formula:

R=√(T/π)=√(156/3.14)≈7.05 cm

D≈14cm=140mm.

If available only supply ventilation(exhaust is represented by a hatch), the cross section of the inlet pipe can be slightly increased - an air duct with a diameter of 15 cm is quite suitable.

To ensure efficient air exchange, it is recommended to install an exhaust pipe, the diameter of which is 10-15% larger than that of the inlet pipe.

For the exhaust duct, an air duct with the following diameter is suitable:

Dv \u003d Dp + 15% \u003d 140 + 21≈160 mm.

Installation of ventilation pipes

In this section, we will tell you how to properly ventilate the cellar and what you should pay special attention to.

Where to locate

The supply air duct is brought out from the surface of the earth. Its lower end should be located almost near the cellar floor, at a distance 20-30 cm.

To install the exhaust pipe, choose the opposite corner of the basement, carry it close to the ceiling. One of its ends is led through the ceilings to the roof.

To improve the efficiency of the ventilation design, use the following tip: place a deflector on the pipe above the roof surface.

By covering the pipe with a cap, you can create negative pressure, which will increase the efficiency of the ventilation system.

Did you know? In ancient Egypt, ventilation was first actively used. Pyramide Cheops has a huge number of air ducts.

Material selection

For the construction of the hood, the following materials are usually used:

Asbestos cement pipes are very similar to slate pipes, which is why they got the same name. Both materials are quite durable, have high reliability and strength. Installation of polyethylene pipes is easy to carry out independently.

Installation

When installing a ventilation system, pay attention to things like this:

• When installing the system in an already finished cellar, you will need to make a special hole in the ceiling.
• Through this hole it is necessary to lower the pipe into the basement - it will draw air. Fix it at the top, next to the ceiling.
• The part of the pipe that is outside the room must be raised by at least 1500 mm above the ground or above the roof.
• In the opposite corner of the basement, it is necessary to make a hole in the roof and install a supply pipe through it. It must end at a distance 20-50 cm from the floor.
• The supply air duct must not protrude too much from the roof. It will be enough to raise it to 25 cm.
• During installation supply pipe in the wall, a deflector must be put on its outer end.
• If the house has a fireplace or stove, the outlet pipe should be installed near the chimney.

Important! Improper ventilation or lack of it will lead to the formation of stale air, which is sure to seep into the house and can adversely affect people's health. To prevent this, regularly check the presence of traction.

There is nothing complicated in installing a ventilation system, the main thing is to follow all the rules and recommendations.

In order to maintain the cellar in good condition and store food in it for a long time, it is necessary to take care of the microclimate.
It is very important to maintain low humidity in the basement. To do this, it is necessary to periodically ventilate the room. In the summer it is recommended to keep open doors and shutters. Gusts of warm wind will quickly dry the cellar.

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Pipe on the roof and attic: types, functions, installation rules

What pipes do you think can be found on the roof and attic of an apartment or private house? Probably, only a chimney and ventilation will come to mind for a respected reader. Meanwhile, the list of possible options is noticeably longer. About varieties engineering communications passing through the roof or in close proximity to it, I want to talk about in this article.

In the photo - the roof of an apartment building with outlets for ventilation ducts and sewerage.

Announce the entire list

Through the roof are usually displayed:

• Pipes for removing combustion products from a furnace or boiler;

They are mostly needed solid fuel boilers with natural traction. For example, modern gas boilers are usually equipped with a coaxial (double) pipe that exits through the nearest external wall. Combustion products are discharged through the inner pipe, air is taken from the street for gas combustion.

• Ventilation outlets;
• Fan conclusions of sewer risers.

In the attic, you can find three more types of pipelines:

• Bottling of heating supply. It is taken out to the attic in the so-called top filling systems;

• Jumpers between risers in the bottom filling system (when both the heating supply and return are separated in the basement). More often, these jumpers can be found in the apartments of the upper floor, however, their location in the attic is more rational: in this case, starting the heating system and bleeding air from the twin risers does not require the presence and participation of residents;
• The same jumpers between the DHW risers.

Chimney

Functions

The functions of the chimney are quite clear: it allows you to divert combustion products outside the house. The output of the pipe through the roof prevents them from getting to the windows and balconies.

Mounting

Key requirements for the design and installation of chimneys are set out in SNiP 41-01-2003. For the convenience of the reader, I will list them here.

A separate chimney is provided for each boiler or furnace. The exception is two stoves located in the same apartment and on the same floor. They can use a common chimney.

I happened to live in Stalinka, which was designed for wood-burning cooking stoves. During its construction, the rule "one pipe - one stove" was not mandatory for builders: the apartments were connected by a common smoke channel in the kitchen along the riser.

The cross section of the pipe is determined by the thermal power of the furnace. SNiP gives the following values:

For a round pipe, the area of ​​​​the internal section should not be less than that indicated for rectangular pipes.

The minimum height of the chimney from the grate to the mouth is 5 meters. Less is impossible: in this case, there will not be sufficient draft in the chimney for its effective operation.

An increase in draft reduces the efficiency of the furnace or boiler, since the combustion products leave the house without giving up all the heat. An excessive increase in the length of the chimney will mean an increase in heating costs.

The height of the pipe above the roof must be equal to or greater than the following values:

• For flat roof- 0.5 m;

If a parapet or a ridge is located within one and a half meters from the chimney, the height is measured not from the roof surface, but from them.

• When located at a distance of 1.5 to 3 meters from the ridge pitched roof the part of the pipe protruding above it should not be lower than the ridge. The same restriction applies to the parapet;
• If the chimney is 3 or more meters away from the ridge, it should not be lower than the line drawn down from the ridge at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizon.

As a chimney material can be used:

• For a wood stove or boiler - clay brick, heat-resistant concrete, asbestos cement and a stainless steel sandwich pipe with non-combustible insulation between the walls. In this case, the maximum allowable operating temperature is 300 C for asbestos cement and 500 for stainless steel;
• If coal is used as fuel, the pipe can only be brick or made of heat-resistant concrete.

The mouth of the pipe must be protected from precipitation, while the umbrella should not restrict the exit of smoke.

Pipe cutting on the roof or in the ceiling (thickening brick chimney, providing the desired degree of thermal insulation) should be 70 mm thicker than the pie of the roof, ceiling or ceiling. If the chimney is laid in a main wall or partition made of combustible material, the cutting is carried out to the full height and thickness. The gap between the cutting and the wall is filled with non-combustible material (usually basalt wool).

How to run a pipe through a roof made of slate or profiled sheet?

It is produced between the rafters, at a distance of at least 15 cm from non-combustible load-bearing structures and at least 30 cm from combustibles. A box is built around the chimney, which is sewn up from below with a sheet of galvanized iron lined with sheet asbestos. The box is filled with basalt wool or fine expanded clay.

A hole is cut in the roofing material under the pipe. Slate is cut by a grinder with a stone or diamond disc, profiled sheet and metal tile - by the same grinder, but with a metal disc.

How to bypass the pipe on the roof, making its connection to the roof airtight?

• From the pipe down the slope under the roofing material, but on top of the waterproofing film a tie is laid - a galvanized sheet with a flanging. Its upper edge is wound into a shallow strobe in the chimney. At the bottom of the ramp, the tie opens into a gutter;
• Additional waterproofing of the pipe on the roof in the strobe along the perimeter of the chimney is carried out with heat-resistant silicone sealant;
• Roofing material is laid over the tie with a minimum gap;
• The wall profile is installed last along the perimeter.

If the roof is made of soft material(bituminous tiles or roofing material), it is laid with an overlap on the pipe. The top of the overlap is pressed with a metal bar, which sits on the sealant (preferably with the top edge entering the gate).

When bypassing a round pipe, the general principles of waterproofing remain the same, only the shape of the tie and the junction bar changes.

Ventilation

Functions

Ventilation ducts provide continuous renewal of air in the premises of the house. This is necessary for two reasons:

1. The oxygen content in the air of residential premises decreases as a result of respiration;
2. Humidity increases due to the activities of people and pets, cleaning, washing, cooking, etc.

Condensation on the windows is the first sign of insufficient ventilation.

In the general case, for residential premises, ventilation is calculated based on an air exchange of 3 cubic meters per hour per square area. There are exceptions to this rule:

• In bathrooms and bathrooms, ventilation should pass 7 - 9 cubic meters per square meter per hour;
• In the kitchen, the minimum ventilation performance is 60 m3 / h with an electric stove or 2-burner gas stove. An increase in the number of burners to three entails an increase in the minimum productivity up to 75 m3 / h, up to four - up to 90.

In the recent past, exhaust ventilation in apartment buildings worked only through kitchens, bathrooms and baths; in living rooms, the air was updated only due to the inflow through the cracks window frames. Now the projects include the presence of exhaust, supply or supply and exhaust ventilation in each room.

It is extremely simple to obtain the air flow through the ventilation ducts that exactly corresponds to the calculated one: it is enough to install exhaust fans of the appropriate capacity in the premises.

SNiP 41-01-2003 prohibits the installation of forced exhaust ventilation without forced air inflow in houses with stoves and natural draft boilers. Ventilation ducts should work only with natural motivation - due to the difference in the density of hot and cold air. The instruction is related to the danger of overturning the draft in the chimney when the air flow prevails over the inflow.

Mounting

To bring ventilation to the roof, you can use:

• Asbestos-cement pipes;
• PVC ventilation pipes;
• An ordinary sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 - 200 mm.

In addition, the outlet of the ventilation duct can be a concrete or brick superstructure on a flat roof.

Regardless of the material, the outlet of the ventilation duct is equipped with an umbrella - a deflector that protects it from precipitation. The deflector also enhances traction in windy conditions.

Termination and sealing of the ventilation outlet is carried out in the same way as in the case of a chimney.

Faced with the problem of installing ventilation in the attic, I solved it like this:

• As a ventilation duct, a gray sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm was used, laid between the roof and the false ceiling made of plasterboard;
• Ventilation was brought out not through the roof, but through one of the gables above the window. This made it possible to do without sealing the connection: roof overhangs reliably protect it from precipitation;

The chimney behind the pediment is installed with a minimum slope away from it. Thus, I eliminated the flow of water in the rain on the surface of the pipe.

• A duct fan was installed in the compensating branch pipe opening the ventilation pipe. Its power circuit is dimmed. The presence of a dimmer allows you to adjust the ventilation performance depending on the weather and noise requirements;
• A tee is installed on the ventilation duct in front of the fan from the side of the room. Through one of the outlets, he takes air from the bathroom located in the middle of the attic, through the second - from the space between the suspended ceiling and the attic roof. Thus, continuous ventilation of this space is ensured;
• For air suction in the four corners of the attic in false ceiling ventilation grills installed.

Sewerage

Functions

Why do you need a sewer outlet to the roof?

A draft is inevitably created in the sewer riser: moist air heated up by contact with drains rises. If the riser is hermetically sealed from above, it will saturate the kitchens and bathrooms on the upper floors with sewer aromas. Of course, provided that the connections of plumbing fixtures with sewerage are leaky.

With a burst of water discharge (for example, with simultaneous flushing in two toilet bowls along the riser), the rarefaction that occurs after the passage of the water front can disrupt the operation of water locks in the siphons of plumbing fixtures. Then the sewer smell will penetrate even into those rooms in which all connections to the sewer are carefully sealed.

Free air exchange with the street solves both problems: the draft transports the smells of sewage outside the house, and with a burst of water discharge, the sewer can suck air through the fan outlet.

Mounting

Sealing pipe outlets outside the roof is carried out in the same way as in the case of ventilation.

One solution to the problem of waterproofing is to install a rubber cap on the sealant.

A few nuances:

• Up to four risers can be connected by a common fan outlet;
• Horizontal sections fan pipe must not have counter slopes. The price of non-compliance with this rule is the accumulation of condensate in areas with a negative slope. The water that fills the pipe will disturb normal work riser ventilation;
• In a private house, a fan outlet is installed at the top of the sewer system. I have it mounted on a sewer pipe running along the facade of the house, transporting effluents from attic floor to the septic.

Bottling heating

Functions

What does moving the filling of the heating supply to the attic give?

1. Extremely simple start-up of the heating system. You just need to fill it, open both house valves in the elevator and bleed air from the expansion tank in the attic. For comparison: in the case of bottom filling, it is necessary to bleed the air in the jumper between each pair of risers;
2. Uniform heating of all heating appliances on every floor. The drop in the temperature of the coolant when it moves from top to bottom is compensated by an increase in size.

The inconvenience lies only in a more difficult reset and starting a separate riser with your own hands: in the case of top filling, it must be turned off both in the basement and in the attic.

Mounting

Bottling is mounted with a constant slope along the entire length. An expansion tank is placed at the top point, collecting air when the circuit is started. Each stand comes with:

• A valve that allows you to turn it off independently of the others;
• Stub. It will allow the riser to suck in air when discharged and prevent water from hanging in it.

Removal of the riser from bottling. Instead of a plug, a relief valve is installed - a ball valve.

In ventilated attics and bottling, and located above attic floor sections of risers are thermally insulated. As a rule, glass wool or mineral wool, rags and knitting wire are used for this purpose. Thermal insulation reduces both untargeted heat losses and the likelihood of the circuit freezing during short-term circulation stops in winter cold.

Jumpers

Functions

Regardless of which risers are connected by jumpers - heating or hot water supply - the jumpers perform one function - they provide continuous circulation of water. Why is it needed in the heating system - I think you can not explain.

On hot water supply, connecting two or more risers with jumpers solves two problems at once:

• Provides almost instantaneous supply of hot water after opening the crane. In houses with dead-end wiring of DHW risers, water has to be drained for a long time to heat it;
• Provides continuous operation of heated towel rails. In new buildings, they are mounted in a gap in the riser, and not in the hot water supply.

Mounting

There are more than a few requirements for installing jumpers in the attic:

1. At the top point of the jumper, an air vent is mounted (a Mayevsky crane or a conventional valve). It is needed to remove air congestion from the risers;
2. If there are brackets (bends in the vertical plane), the air vent is installed at the top of each bracket;
3. The jumper above the floor level is thermally insulated.

Conclusion

I hope that I was able to answer all the questions that the dear reader has accumulated. As usual, you can learn more by watching the video in this article. I will be grateful for your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!

August 2, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

A gardener's dream is to have his own spacious and dry basement for storing vegetables from the garden, conservation and other household items. How to make technologically correct ventilation of the home cellar? To equip a good storage in a private house, it is necessary to equip it with a supply and exhaust air exchanger. A competent hood in the cellar will ensure optimal humidity and temperature regime.

Optimization and quality of ventilation depend on the correct arrangement of it. The scheme for the correct operation of the air exchange system is simple. The space in the basement provides for 2 channels of the supply and exhaust structure. Through one - fresh air enters the room, through the other, fumes are removed from the cellar.
When the underground storage has a small area, air exchange is created in the cellar with one pipe. But the efficiency of a single channel system will be low.

Proper cellar ventilation is characterized by the following factors:

• maximum performance is achieved due to risers of a certain diameter connected to the holes;
• the quality of the system is determined by the location of the exhaust and supply openings above the basement;
• cellar ventilation pipes are mounted in the walls if the basement is located under the garage or under the house, or led out through the ceiling if the storage is on the street;
• when building a hood for a cellar with your own hands, you need to take into account the installation height of the inlet and outlet channels from the floor;
• The hole diameter must be the same on all channels. Too little - leads to musty air, and vice versa, the influx of a large amount of cold leads to freezing of products;
• the ventilation device in the cellar involves the installation of supply and output risers on opposite corners or walls. A certain distance is required between the pipes. This arrangement ensures the maximum passage of fresh air through the room, pushing out stagnant air;
• openings for the removal of stagnant air are made under the ceiling;
• the ventilation exhaust duct is arranged above the embankment of the basement. Its length, for the normal functioning of the air duct system, must be at least 150 cm:
• to organize the ventilation of the underground, PVC pipes of the same diameter are used;
• when arranging the supply and exhaust structure, it is necessary to achieve a direct location of communications. Curves and turns make it difficult for air to pass through;
• to maintain an optimal microclimate in the basement, it is recommended to install dampers. In the cold season, they regulate the flow of cold air;
• segments of air circulation channels from the outside are covered with a grill, mushrooms and are necessarily insulated.

Guided by the above tips for arranging ventilation in the cellar, you can achieve optimal ventilation of the underground storage.

Varieties of supply and exhaust air exchange systems in basements

Depending on the layout and area of ​​​​the subfloor, the type of hood is selected. There are several types of air exchange systems in basements.

Natural ventilation

The extraction device in the cellar according to the type of natural ventilation is based on the difference in temperature indicators and pressure in the street and indoors. Efficiency depends on the correct location of the holes. The supply channel is placed at a height of 25 - 30 cm from the floor, and the exhaust passage - 10 - 20 cm from the ceiling.

Forced system

The forced air exchange design consists of two pipes with built-in fans that force the air to move, creating an artificial vacuum in the room. Their power depends on the dimensions of the basement.

Combined ventilation

When creating air exchange inside the subfloor, choosing hoods, it is necessary to take into account the features of the building. It can be located under a residential building or garage, located separately on the street. These factors affect the correct capacity of the duct.

Subfloor in the house: we create air vent communications

Ventilation in the cellar under the house has two purposes: it provides the comfort of living in the house and the storage of products in an accessible place. An improperly functioning ventilation system negatively affects the comfort of living - it leads to the penetration of stale and stale air into the home
What should be the hood for the cellar so that the storage conditions are optimal, and the owners' accommodation is comfortable? To arrange ventilation of a room under a residential building, use the forced method, with the installation of a stationary fan on the exhaust opening or a natural view.

System features

Ventilation of the cellar under the house has its own nuances:

• the supply channel is mounted through the foundation of the building;
• the pipe for fresh air intake should not have many bends, turns, constrictions and expansions;
• when bringing the holes out, it is necessary to ensure that they are not covered with dirt, snow;
• to prevent condensation, the outer part is insulated;
• the exhaust elbow is placed along the wall.

Most often in residential buildings, a basement is built under the kitchen.

Basement under the garage

The arrangement of ventilation of the cellar under the garage implies maintaining the microclimate in the underground room for storing things and products, as well as to prevent dampness. Structurally, the hood is divided into the following options:

1. natural - due to the difference in pressure and temperature inside and outside. natural circulation air - popular cheap option. It assumes the presence of two holes with pipes made of metal, plastic or PVC.
2. Artificial cellar ventilation - ventilation occurs forcibly with the help of installed fans. Their work is controlled by a monoblock control.
3. a combined method that allows you to combine the above two types.

What hole diameter is required for the ventilation system?

Determination of the required pipe size ensures optimal operation of the cellar ventilation system. Professional designers perform a complex algorithm for calculating the diameter of pipes, but a simplified form is used for independent construction:

• for a basement area of ​​​​1m², a channel cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200b26 cm² is needed. Let's take an underground storage 4x3 m as a standard.
• we calculate the area: S \u003d 3x3 \u003d 9 m².
• for such dimensions, a pipe with a cross section is required: T \u003d 9x26 \u003d 234 cm².
  ) \u003d √ (234 / 3.14) \u003d 8.6 cm
• the diameter is calculated as Dp ≈17 cm = 170 mm.

Knowing the required dimensions, you can proceed to subsequent installation activities.

Installation work

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the cellar is easy. But the correctness of its construction depends on the knowledge and skills of the owners of the house. Guided by the advice of professionals, you can independently build air exchange in the basement.

1. If the ventilation system is arranged in finished basement, then a hole is made in the ceiling for the outlet of the duct.
2. An exhaust pipe is carried through the niche and fixed under the ceiling.
3. From the street, the outlet channel rises 150 cm above the ground.
4. In the opposite corner, the air inlet through the wall is mounted and lowered down. It is located at least 20 cm from the floor.
5. The intake hole in the yard should be lower than the supply one. This ensures natural traction.
6. A deflector, fungus and mesh are installed on all outputs of the supply and output system.

Underfloor drying

Drying is considered the simplest method of cellar ventilation. If there is high humidity in the room, then it needs to be warmed up.

• to ensure a favorable microclimate, it is recommended to open all doors and hatches in the basement. The room is completely dried and ventilated.
• containers with hygroscopic substances are used: table salt or quicklime, which perfectly absorb moisture and dampness, and disinfect the air.
• the installation of a burning candle in the exhaust duct helps to increase the intensity of the draft. Air circulation increases significantly, and harmful fumes are removed from the room.
• drying the room with wind-blown heaters, portable stoves and electric heaters is considered the easiest and most affordable way.

It is better to start drying in the summer. Natural ventilation with warm air gives the maximum effect.

Waterproofing measures

Covering the underground space with waterproofing compounds allows you to maintain optimal temperature and humidity conditions inside.
There are several options for isolation:

1. for concrete walls, deep penetration impregnations are used, which treat all surfaces. Each layer penetrates the concrete, creating a waterproof and breathable surface.
2. ruberoid is used as an insulating material. The sheet is laid on a surface treated with mastic.
3. clay is an environmentally friendly material that also retains moisture well.

In addition to the above options, other means are used, but the above ones differ in availability and safety of use.

How to properly ventilate the cellar? There are some tips:

1. In winter, it is better to cover the hood so as not to contribute to the strong cooling of the basement. For this, old blankets and rags are used, which are laid on a steel grate in a manhole.
2. Overdrying the cellar is also harmful. You can increase the humidity to the optimum level using a spray gun (spray water occasionally) or boxes of wet sand.
3. The air temperature in the basement should not coincide with the street. To expel musty fumes in the underground room, fans installed in the system channels are used.

A well-equipped air exhaust system is the key to maintaining the microclimate in the basement. Do-it-yourself cellar ventilation is an opportunity to create the perfect storage for vegetables and preservation.

Competent ventilation device in the cellar - theory and practice

The cellar is a brilliant invention of man, which can be put on a par with the invention of penicillin and automatic washing machines. Thanks to the presence of this underground room, a person was able not only to grow a crop, but also to preserve it. A special shape, a thick layer of earth above its top and proper ventilation of the cellar created a special microclimate, in which practically all year round it kept the same temperature and humidity. The correct microclimate did not allow human agricultural stocks to deteriorate, as in summer heat and in the harshest winters. And ventilation plays an important, and perhaps the main role in this.

Basement and cellar: purpose and main differences

We want to make a reservation right away that the cellar and basement are completely different rooms, with different tasks. The basement is called the basement of the building, which is part of the house. This floor can be used as a storage room for any supplies, various things, sports and tourist inventory. In the basements, many owners of private houses equip boiler rooms, garages and gyms.

In fact, the basement is a place for installing engineering communications at home. Thanks to this space, a person has good access to them. In addition, the basement plays the role of an air gap between the floor and the ground, which is very important in terms of thermal insulation of the premises of the house.

A cellar is a room made, as a rule, underground, which is intended exclusively for storing products, mainly for agricultural purposes. It can be safely called an underground storage. It can be located both inside the house and as a separate building. If it is part of the house, then very often the ventilation system in it is used by a common house. If the underground storage is a separate element from the house, then it has its own ventilation.

Air duct requirements

Air outlets are divided into two groups, supply and exhaust. In addition, they can be round or rectangular. Round pipes are the most popular, but take up more space, and rectangular boxes, with the same cross section, occupy a smaller area, but have a high cost. They also differ in the material from which they are made. The most common is a PVC pipe and a metal galvanized air outlet.

Advice:
The higher the exhaust pipe, the better the draft, and, accordingly, the ventilation in the cellar. If the underground storage is not part of the basement of the house, then the issue of fixing the exhaust pipe becomes quite acute. It can be secured with stretch cables, with lanyards installed on each for tensioning. The simplest and most effective way to fix the air duct is to enclose it in a wooden insulated box, which is fixed in the ground with concrete.

Calculation of the cross-section of air ducts and selection of fan power

For effective ventilation of the underground storage, it is necessary that the air ducts can pass through right amount air masses, and this depends on their diameter. How to find out what cross-section of air ducts is needed to equip an effective cellar ventilation system with your own hands? There are two ways to find out the exact diameter of the air ducts:

1. Order a calculation in the relevant organization. This will give you a guarantee that all calculations will be made correctly. True, this procedure is not the cheapest and for the calculation you will need to pay an amount that may exceed the cost of organizing the entire cellar.
2. Perform the calculations yourself, while you have to remember the arithmetic, but it will be absolutely free. Which way to choose is up to you.

In order to do the ventilation of the cellar with our own hands, we need to know the volume of the room for storing food and the frequency of air exchange. The recommended air exchange (how many times the air in the cellar is changed) is from 2 to 4, depending on the products stored in it.

• To find out the volume of a room, you need to multiply its length by the width and height. Consider a cellar with dimensions of 2 m x 3 m x 2.5 m = 15 m3
• To find out the amount of air passed per hour, you need to multiply the volume of the cellar by the recommended air exchange rate. Consider the average value of 3. As a result, we get that in 1 hour 15 cubic meters x 3 = 45 cubic meters should pass through the cellar

We find the cross-sectional area of ​​​​air ducts using the following formula:

• S- recommended air speed
• L- air consumption.

In our case, the speed of air flow is 1 m/s. (norm for natural ventilation).

We get the cross-sectional area of ​​​​the duct:

45 / (1 m / s x 3600) \u003d) 0.0125 sq.m

We calculate the radius data of a round pipe:

• R- duct radius (mm)
• F- section of the air duct (mm.kv)
• π - constant = 3.14

Based on the data, we get:

The radius of the round duct we need must be at least 125 mm

Now let's move on to calculating the performance of the exhaust fan. You can use a simplified method. To do this, you need to multiply the volume of the room by 12. In our case, this is 15 cubic meters x 12 = 180 cubic meters / hour. The performance of the exhaust fan for the cellar, with an area of ​​6 square meters, with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters, is 180 cubic meters per hour.

We equip the cellar ourselves

Many people ask: "How to make ventilation in the cellar?" Now that all the calculations have been made, the money has been saved, we proceed to the purchase of air ducts and equipment. To install a combined ventilation system, we need:

• The required amount of PVC pipe, with a diameter of 125 mm.
• One end tee for condensate drain.
• One brass or plastic stopcock for tapping into the end tee.
• Fasteners for a pipe.
• Exhaust fan, capacity 180 m3/h. Important! The fan is installed inside the exhaust pipe, so look for a model that will fit the diameter of your ducts.
• The required amount of wire, with a cross section of at least 1.5 mm2, plug.
• Round air intake grille with a diameter of 125 mm - 2 pcs.
• Metal mesh, from the penetration of rodents into the cellar 15 cm x 15 cm.
• Deflector. Buying a deflector is optional. It serves to increase the draft in the exhaust duct in the event of a power outage and the fan stops.

It is somewhat easier to ventilate in an underground food storage room, which is located under the house. Moreover, all calculations remain the same, but it is easier to fix the air ducts. Exhaust - must go through the basement, and pass from outer side at home. The height of the exhaust pipe should be 0.5 m higher than the roof ridge.

Master's advice:
Before installing the exhaust pipe, install a fan in it and secure it with standard fasteners.

Using our tips, we hope that you will easily equip your underground storage with the right ventilation system.

Proper ventilation in the cellar of the garage

It is unnecessary to talk about how important proper ventilation is in the cellar of the garage. Everyone knows that without ventilation in the cellar it is damp and the products stored there quickly deteriorate. In addition, if damp air from the cellar enters the garage, then this leads to corrosion of metal objects in the garage, including the car.

Natural ventilation of the cellar in the garage - diagram

In general, everyone is aware of the need for proper ventilation in the garage cellar. But not everyone knows how to make ventilation in the cellar of the garage.

Let's start with the fact that the ventilation of the garage, cellar and observation room can be one of three types:

• natural,
• combined,
• mechanical.

Natural ventilation in the cellar of the garage

Natural ventilation is used in small garages and cellars. Its main advantage is accessibility. However, in summer such ventilation is inefficient or does not work at all, and in winter it is necessary to periodically check the condition of the ventilation ducts. They can be clogged with snow or overgrown with frost inside.

• Advantages:
  • no energy source needed
  • noiselessness,
  • availability.
• Flaws:
  • job instability,
  • the need for periodic checks and cleaning of pipes,
  • the impossibility of any adjustments,
  • inability to use filters.

Natural ventilation in the cellar of the garage is done in accordance with the following rules:

• supply and exhaust pipes are usually located in opposite corners of the basement;
• in the cellar, the end of the supply pipe must be located at a height of 0.3-0.5 m from the floor;
• in the cellar, the end of the exhaust pipe should be at a height of 1.5-2 m from the floor;
• if the exhaust pipe is mounted completely outside the garage, it must be insulated (it should be distinguished through installation of the pipe - through the garage room, and wall - from the outside);
• the minimum height difference between the suction and outlet openings of the ventilation system (they are located on the street) is 3 meters;
• the inlet from the side of the street is closed with a grate or mesh (from rodents and large insects);
• it is advisable to cover the exhaust pipe with a visor, and even better - with a diffuser that increases draft;
• The approximate diameter of the exhaust pipe in centimeters can be obtained by multiplying the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garage (in square meters) by 1.5;
• The diameter of the exhaust pipe can be 10% of the diameter of the supply pipe.

Natural ventilation in the cellar of the garage - device options

Remember that each additional bend in the ventilation pipe reduces the efficiency of the entire system. By the way, pipes from almost any material can be used to ventilate a garage, cellar and viewing room.

Combined ventilation in the cellar of the garage

You can increase the efficiency of natural exhaust by installing a light bulb in the exhaust pipe, which will heat the air and further enhance the draft. As an alternative to a light bulb, you can use a candle - in this case, you can do without electricity. But still it is better to install a fan. This is the most The best way turn the natural ventilation system into a combined one.

As you guessed, the combined and natural ventilation in the cellar of the garage differ from each other only in the presence of a fan on one of the air ducts. When off, the fan will create a slight additional resistance to airflow. But by turning it on, you can ensure effective ventilation of the cellar, regardless of the time of year and weather conditions.

Forced ventilation in the cellar of the garage

Forced ventilation in the cellar of the garage

Forced ventilation in the cellar of the garage is provided by the constant operation of the fan. Let's look at the advantages and disadvantages of such a system:

• Benefits:
  • work stability;
  • the ability to adjust the efficiency, air heating;
  • the possibility of using an air filter.
• limitations:
  • constant energy consumption;
  • complexity of installation;
  • significant cost of some components;
  • wear and tear parts.

Forced ventilation is built on the same principles as natural ventilation. After all, the natural movement of air should help, and not interfere with the operation of the fan.

Forced ventilation in the cellar of the garage can be provided by a duct fan

Particular attention when installing forced ventilation in the cellar of the garage should be given to safety. This applies to wiring, installation of switches and fans. Fans are best to choose channel.

As for filters, air heating and adjusting the operation of the hood - all this requires additional costs and is done as needed.

Cellar

The microclimate in the cellar depends not only on ventilation. The material of the walls and floor, the quality of waterproofing and insulation - all this is very important factors. Do not save on such things, do not think that proper ventilation in the garage cellar can fully compensate for flaws in its construction. Try to make a quality cellar in the garage, it is quite possible that you can then do without natural ventilation.

Hi all! Sandwich garages are my passion. I can talk about them day and night. I can tell =)

Dry cellar: do the right ventilation

The dream of every gardener is to have a dry and spacious cellar, the air in it should be fresh, but without drafts. In order to build such a miracle storage with your own hands, you need to provide it supply and exhaust ventilation. Proper ventilation of the cellar will allow you to maintain the optimal temperature and humidity conditions for storing vegetables in it, save it from excessive dampness and humidity, and protect it from the appearance of mold. Knowing the basic rules for natural ventilation, you can make the cellar dry on your own.

Natural ventilation - the right device:

• to ensure good ventilation, 2 pipes are installed: supply and exhaust;
• air exchange will be better if the ventilation pipes are located in two levels and, if the storage design allows, in different places, which will avoid sucking in fresh air;
• the exhaust ventilation pipe is placed at the top - just under the ceiling;
• the cellar ventilation supply pipe, on the contrary, at the bottom at a height of 50-60 cm from the floor;
• the figures below show the correct and incorrect cellar exhaust device;

• use large quantity ventilation pipes with a smaller cross section - undesirable, which is especially important for the northern regions;
• with such a cellar ventilation device, air exchange occurs due to the difference specific gravity warm indoor air and cold outdoor air. This is a natural process, so the ventilation of the cellar according to this scheme is called natural;
• the exhaust pipe must be brought out above the roof ridge and insulated (it is made double) in the place where it passes through the cellar or attic. The draft in the exhaust ventilation pipe is the greater, the higher it is;
• the cross section of the ventilation pipes depends on the size of the cellar. So, with a cellar area of ​​\u200b\u200b6-8 square meters. m exhaust requirement is made with a section of 120x120 mm, but if the cellar is equipped with only one pipe, then its section should be at least 150x150 mm;
• for the manufacture of ventilation pipes, boards with a thickness of 30-40 mm are used. They are well adjusted, tightly knocked together and supplied with valves (latches) and dampers that will allow you to regulate air exchange and temperature and humidity conditions;

• if the cellar is small, then one two-channel pipe with wind trapping is enough to ventilate it (see figure). With this design, the pipe has two channels - one for air flow into the cellar, the other for exhaust. Each channel can be equipped with an independent valve;

• ventilation of some types of cellars (for example, if it is located under a garage) can be equipped through a hatch closed with a grate. From above, the grate is insulated with an old blanket or other insulation;
• you can check the effective operation of ventilation by attaching sheets of thin paper to the outlets of the pipes. If there is convection, then the paper will begin to sway;
• The second way to check if the ventilation of the cellar is working is to put a bucket of hot coals in it. By the movement of smoke from the coals, one can observe the air currents inside the vegetable store;
• lack of ventilation is easy to detect by the following signs: stale and musty air; mold; feeling of dampness; condensation on the ceiling, bins, walls, racks;
• to reduce humidity, the cellar must be ventilated. For this internal doors they make them latticed and in the fall they open everything that can be opened - hatches, doors, latches. At the same time, a box filled with coarse table salt or quicklime is brought into the cellar (they not only absorb moisture, but also disinfect the air);

• if, on the contrary, it is necessary to increase the humidity in the cellar built by oneself, then one can sprinkle water, sprinkle the floor in the cellar with wet sawdust, or place a box filled with wet sand.

When the cellar is in the garage

The ventilation of the cellar in the garage is important not only to maintain the temperature and humidity necessary to ensure the safety of food, but also to keep the garage damp. Cellar hood options in the garage:

1. natural - based on the temperature difference between the outside and inside the basement, causing continuous air circulation. Natural ventilation of the cellar in the garage is the cheapest hood option.
2. forced (artificial) - the air flow is forced by fans. Fully mechanized basement ventilation under the garage using a monoblock or software-controlled modular system starts at $1,000;
3. combined - includes elements of natural and forced ventilation of the cellar.

as in the case of a cellar in a house, in most cases natural ventilation is used for the ventilation of a cellar in a garage, the performance of which is quite sufficient for small volumes of a vegetable store. The scheme of natural ventilation of the cellar in the garage also provides for at least two pipes made of resistant materials. Most suitable material for ventilation pipes - metal or plastic, such as PVC. Below is the ventilation scheme: on the left - the standard scheme; on the right - a diagram of the cellar ventilation device in the garage, which provides ventilation for the garage itself.

As can be seen from the diagrams, proper ventilation of the cellar in the garage includes:

• supply and exhaust located in different sides premises. The best placement is in the far opposite corners;
• ventilation pipes must have one cross-sectional diameter along the entire length;
• the fewer bends and turns in the supply and exhaust ventilation pipes of the cellar in the garage, the better. Ideally, they should not be at all;
• the supply pipe is located as close to the floor as possible. The pipe opening is closed with a mesh from the penetration of rodents and other small animals;
• the bottom of the exhaust pipe - as high as possible (closer to the ceiling);
• the top of the exhaust pipe is located as high as possible - at a distance > 0.8 - 1 m above the ridge, and in the case shed roof, counting from its highest part. The high location of the cellar ventilation exhaust pipe in the garage improves traction and eliminates the drift of its outlet end with snow;
• air exchange is adjusted through control dampers built into the supply and exhaust ventilation of the cellar in the garage. The dampers allow you to dry the cellar, regulate both the inflow and outflow of air. The dampers are indispensable for the ventilation of the cellar in the garage in the winter in frosts, when it is necessary to dose the amount of air renewal, otherwise you can freeze the stored vegetables and preparations;
• both pipes are protected from above with visors, protective covers or deflectors. This will prevent atmospheric precipitation from getting inside, and also, in the case of using a deflector for exhaust, it will create a rarefaction area around it, which will increase traction;
• out through the chimney warm air, therefore, condensation may form inside it in frosty weather. The condensate freezes, which reduces the air passage area up to the complete blockage of the air duct. To prevent such a situation, the pipe must be insulated without fail, especially in the place where it passes through the roof. For insulation use materials that are resistant to water. In addition, the pipe in winter must be periodically cleared of snow, and to facilitate the process, the outlet part of the pipe is made removable. This will allow only the clogged part of the pipe to be cleaned.

Proper natural ventilation of the cellar in the garage will ensure constant air circulation, and most of the room will be involved in air exchange. The cost of natural ventilation of the basement is insignificant, it will not require large expenses, you can meet 1,500 rubles (purchase consumable, and make the ventilation device with your own hands). The main disadvantage of natural exhaust: in the case when the air temperature in the street is equal to or greater than the air temperature in the cellar, the air exchange stops.

allows you to equip the cellar hood in the garage so that the air exchange process does not depend on weather conditions. To do this, it is necessary to modernize the exhaust pipe: an electric fan is placed in it, creating an air vortex. Thus, the air is expelled from the room, which ensures the flow of fresh air through the supply pipe. It is possible to organize air exchange through one passage (use a double-leaf pipe). The forced method allows you to organize the ventilation of the cellar in the garage and ensure constant air exchange in the summer, when the natural method is powerless.

If you wish, you can arrange ideal conditions for storing food for the cellar in the garage, for which a fully mechanized basement ventilation is installed. At the same time, the supply and exhaust air in the room is provided by a monoblock ( modular system) and controlled by software. The cost of such installations can exceed $1,000.

When the cellar in the house

The ventilation of the cellar in the house performs two functions at once: it provides suitable conditions for storing food and does not allow the deterioration of the comfortable living of people in the house. Improper ventilation of the cellar in the house can negatively affect comfort and coziness: dampness in the cellar and musty, stale air easily penetrate into the living quarters, and all residents of the house will have to breathe this air. A tightly closed lid or cellar door will not save the situation.

The optimal cellar ventilation scheme in the house is shown in the figure. The scheme is suitable for both natural and forced (artificial) ventilation:

• the forced method involves the installation of a stationary fan; this method is used for air exchange in large-volume vegetable stores. The fan for the cellar is placed on the exhaust duct;
• for natural ventilation, the fan is also used, but not permanently, but temporarily - it is installed for several days to dry the storage.

Features of cellar ventilation in the house:

• the supply pipe is laid through the part of the foundation above the ground, then through the basement of the house;
• the supply pipe must have a minimum number of bends and a minimum length, must not have narrowings and expansions;
• when arranging the ventilation of the cellar in the house, it must be ensured that in winter the supply pipe is not covered with snow;
• the part of the exhaust pipe located in a cold place must be insulated to prevent condensation;
• the cellar ventilation hood is located inside the wall of the house or in a special ventilation duct, which usually runs along the wall (for example, from the kitchen). In order to collect all the ventilation ducts together, it is better to make a cellar under the kitchen.

How to make ventilation in the cellar of a garage and a private house

Unlike ground buildings, in the basements of private houses there are no conditions for ventilation and removal of excess moisture. To keep vegetables and fruits stored there longer fresh look, it is necessary to organize a constant air circulation - supply and exhaust. There is no need to hire specialists for the cellar ventilation device, since you can do it yourself when you read our publication.

Basement ventilation methods

There are 2 types of ventilation systems used in the basements of residential buildings, garages and other sheds:

1. With a natural urge. In a vertical channel facing the street, draft arises due to the difference in heights and temperatures outside and inside the cellar.
2. With compulsion. The movement of air masses is provided by one or more fans.

Reference. In the right cellar, the air temperature fluctuates within very narrow limits throughout the year (from 5 to 12 ° C), so it is relatively warm in winter and cool in summer.

For the vast majority of underground storage facilities, natural air exchange is sufficient, even if it has a large area. In winter, indoor air is warmer and lighter than outdoors, which encourages it to rise through the ventilation duct leading outside. The only condition: the inflow must be compensated by the exhaust so that the cold and heavier air mass displaces the heated one, otherwise there will be no circulation.

In summer, when it is cool in the basement and hot outside, the natural draft is significantly weakened. And although most of the storage facilities are empty during this period, they need to be prepared for winter - ventilated and dried. How to do this, we will tell further.

Ventilation ducts are best laid at the construction stage

Forced ventilation is an expensive pleasure and is not used unless absolutely necessary. This need arises in the following situations:

• during long-term storage of fruits and foodstuffs that require certain climatic conditions;
• when the basement is used for other purposes, for example, as a gym or boiler room;
• if the storage consists of several rooms where you need to create a different microclimate;
• in summer, when drying is needed, artificial air exchange is organized temporarily.

Supply unit in a vegetable store

An important point. The air flow forced into the cellar must be heated in winter. Thoughtless installation of a supply or exhaust fan without an additional heating system will lead to rapid deterioration of vegetables as a result of freezing.

Calculation of the dimensions of the ducts

In order for the ventilation in the cellar to function efficiently and at the same time minimally affect the temperature in the room, it is necessary to choose the right pipe diameters. The latter must pass a certain amount of air, no more, no less. According to the generally accepted method, cross section duct is calculated as follows:

F = L / 3600 x ϑ, where:

F is the size of the section, expressed in m²

ϑ – air flow velocity in the pipe, m/s;

· L – required amount of air, m³/h.

Now in order. With natural and forced ventilation, the flow moves through the channels at different speeds. In the first case, it is 0.5-1 m/s, in the second it can reach 8 m/s. To calculate natural draft, put the value 0.5 m/s in the formula.

To correctly determine the value of L, you need to calculate the volume of the basement and multiply it by the air exchange rate (a number indicating how many times in 1 hour you need to update the air environment of the room). For storing vegetables, the multiplicity rate is 2, which means that for a cellar measuring 3 x 2 x 2 m, you will need 12 x 2 = 24 m³ of fresh inflow per hour. If we continue to count according to this example, we get the cross section:

24 / 3600 x 0.5 = 0.013 m².

Using the formula for the area of ​​a circle, we determine the diameter of the channel, in our example it is 0.13 m or 130 mm. We select a pipe from the range, the nearest one is 150 mm (you need to take a larger size, not a smaller one).

When it is necessary to arrange ventilation of the basement with mechanical motivation, air ducts are considered according to the same method. The optimal speed of movement is 8 m/s, and the demand L is taken according to the purpose of the room. For example, the exchange rate for the gym is 3, then the amount of inflow in the basement 5 x 10 x 3 m is 150 x 3 = 450 m³ / h. The fan performance should be the same, and the diameter of the air ducts due to the high speed will be the same - 150 mm.

Scheme of forced exhaust using a duct fan

Natural exhaust device

As a rule, the hood in the cellar is carried out according to the standard scheme with two channels - supply and exhaust. As the latter, an inexpensive sewer PVC pipe of the same diameter is used.

Supply duct outlet

Air ducts must be installed according to the following rules:

1. The exhaust pipe starts in the upper zone of the vegetable store, not lower than 20 cm from the ceilings, otherwise the ceiling will “sweat” from below.
2. The top of the exhaust channel rises as high as possible in order to provide good traction. Ideally, the pipe cut should be at the level of the roof.
3. Place the bottom of the supply air duct 30-50 cm above the floor, it is enough to bring the top to the level of the basement.
4. If the cellar is a separate structure, then place the channels vertically with a passage through the ceiling, avoiding turns. A similar scheme can be implemented in the garage by passing pipelines through the floors.
5. Air ducts from basements arranged under a private house or barn should be laid with a minimum number of turns. To pass through the wall and bring the channel out, 2 bends are enough.
6. Close the ends of the pipes from precipitation with metal umbrellas, and additionally cover the supply with a mesh. Since it stands low, you need to block the path to the cellar for rodents.

Advice. To prevent condensation from forming inside the exhaust channel and freezing on the walls, insulate it with mineral wool mats 50-70 mm thick wrapped with roofing material.

Ventilation with one pipe will work if you organize the inflow through the front door

In some cases, it is customary to carry out ventilation in the basement of the garage with one combined pipe, divided into 2 sections by a longitudinal partition. It serves as an inlet and outlet at the same time. This method is not efficient, since there is no height difference between the channels. In addition, the holes are located in one place, and not spaced apart at the corners of the cellar for better circulation. How to arrange proper ventilation under the garage is shown in the video:

Often on the Internet there are tips on improving natural draft with the help of deflectors - metal nozzles on the exhaust duct. The device shown in the photo below, when blown by the wind, creates a rarefaction zone around the pipe head, which increases the thrust. The stronger the wind blows, the more air the deflector helps to suck in from the basement. But for winter period it's not too much good decision and that's why:

• in order for the deflector to function normally, it must be removed from the leeward zone, that is, raised above the roof;
• how much air goes outside, so much will come through the supply air duct, which is why when severe frost and the wind can freeze all supplies;
• if you try to regulate the air flow with a damper, then you will have to adjust it every time the weather changes.

Read more about the natural ventilation of the cellars in the following video:

Drainage of basements

The cellar must be prepared annually for the winter season - well ventilated and dried. There are several ways to get rid of moisture and musty odors:

1. The simplest remedy is to open the door or hatch to the basement and ventilate it before the onset of cold weather.
2. In the summer, when the natural hood weakens, the temporary installation of a deflector helps to resolve the issue.
3. A fan attached to the lower end of the exhaust pipe allows you to dry the room quickly and well.
4. Folk remedy - a lit candle, installed under the exhaust duct. By heating the air around it, the flame initiates an increase in natural draft.
5. Put a wood-burning stove in the cellar or bring in a brazier with glowing coals.

Good effect give electric heaters - heat guns and convectors. But since it will take 2-3 days to drain the basement, such devices will have time to wind you up a decent amount for electricity.

Conclusion

From the above, the conclusion is: the best option cellar ventilation is a natural exhaust and a do-it-yourself inflow. Done right, your basement storage will be dry and warm during the winter, which is exactly what your food supplies need. The costs are minimal: only pipes are needed, and any - PVC, asbestos cement, galvanized metal, and so on. The main thing is that their diameter is close to the calculated one.

Ventilation of the basement or cellar is an important component of the competent operation of the premises. Without an air exchange system, dampness actively spreads, excess moisture forms. Cellars and basements store not only conservation, but also stocks of vegetables and fruits, which tend to "breathe". The lack of inflow of fresh air and outflow of moist invariably leads to the accumulation of condensate.

During the construction of the basement and foundation, mistakes are often made in terms of the construction of the waterproofing layer. In this case, the walls can accumulate dampness from the outside space in their structure, absorb it from the soil. To level all the listed omissions and undesirable manifestations is quite simple - to organize effective ventilation of the cellar or basement of an apartment building, for example.

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Basic requirements for carrying out work on the arrangement of ventilation of the cellar

Almost all modern private houses are built with a basement. This is one of the most effective ways to obtain several tens of square meters of usable space without compromising the main housing. Here it is customary to equip gyms, saunas, pantries and places to save food. Even in the 21st century, most cellars are used as cellars.

When arranging them, you must adhere to certain recommendations:

• Strict temperature regime. It is customary to equip the cellar in such a way that the room is in contact with outer wall residential building.
• No light source. This condition is mandatory. It is allowed to turn on the lighting for a short period.
• supply of pure oxygen. The condition is easy to implement if the ventilation in the basement functions efficiently and copes with the removal of dirty air.
• Humidity regime. The humidity level in the cellar should not fall below 90%.

Key moment - high-quality ventilation basement and the availability of an appropriate system in principle. Efficient air exchange will allow not only to store products much longer, but also eliminate the risk of mold and mildew, which often happens in conditions high humidity. Functional ventilation of the cellar is an important component necessary for the formation of optimal storage conditions for vegetables, fruits and other products.



How the system works

The principle of operation of the system is based on the basic laws of physics. Having carefully looked at the ventilation scheme in the cellar, one can state the fact that it is extremely simple, but at the same time reliable.

To organize a complete system, it is enough to provide 2 ventilation holes for the basement. One of them is necessary to remove excess fumes and air from the room, and the second is to ensure the flow of pure and fresh oxygen. To ensure optimal efficiency, such a system requires two pipes, supply and exhaust.

Important condition quality work ventilation in the cellar correct location air ducts, especially with regard to placing them above the ground.

Ventilation in the cellar under the house

An equally important stage is the installation of pipes on optimal height from the floor and their subsequent withdrawal into the outer space. Incorrectly placed air ducts can bring in too much air, which is extremely undesirable for fresh food and vegetables stored on the shelves. Too small a diameter of the pipes will not allow you to quickly remove musty air masses from the room.



Proper ventilation of the cellar involves careful preparation, development of design documentation and study of recommendations for installation work:

• The air exchange system for the basement is laid at the construction stage of the facility itself. This approach simplifies the supply of channels to the walls, where elements of the ventilation system will subsequently be placed. The location of the pipes should be indicated in the project documentation.
• Pipes for supplying and exhausting air must be of the same diameter, which will ensure uniform circulation of oxygen around the perimeter of the room. If we are talking about a ready-made basement, where it is necessary to quickly get rid of damp air, it is allowed to use an exhaust pipe of a slightly larger diameter. The reverse order is impossible, since there is a high risk of oxygen retention, gas contamination of the cellar.
• It is customary to place the pipes of the ventilation system in opposite corners of the room. It takes some time for a fresh stream to pass through the entire room and then exit to the street.
• An air duct hole is made under the ceiling, as warm masses rush up, which in turn provides the room with constantly pure oxygen.
• Experts strongly recommend installing a chimney 1.6 m above the ridge of the cellar, which is necessary to generate sufficient traction. As for the pipes themselves, the most suitable option– sewer plastic solutions.
• If the object is located under a garage or residential building, the total number of turns of the duct system is minimized. The ideal option is an absolutely flat and straight pipe of the same diameter along the entire length.
• From the side of the street, the base of the supply pipe is located slightly above ground level. The outlet channel must be covered with a protective grill so that small debris, birds and animals do not get into the system.
• Pipes installed in a strictly vertical position require protection from precipitation. The easiest way is a metal umbrella, but more complex, but much more functional -

In any case, the pipe located outside must be insulated without fail, which will help to avoid the formation of condensate on the walls of the duct during the cold season.

A properly organized ventilation system is supplemented with dampers, through which you can adjust the volume of air supply and output, which is very important for maintaining an optimal microclimate.



Varieties of cellar ventilation systems

Before you make ventilation in the cellar, you need to decide on the type of system that will be equipped in the room. It can be either forced or natural. The choice in favor of one or another option is determined by the features of the layout of the basement, its total area.

Forced air exchange system

Use of a fan in the system

The main feature of such a ventilation system is the automatic supply and removal of air, which is achieved by fans located in the pipes. Her work does not depend on the vagaries of the weather and external factors. In the very simple version it is enough to place the fan near the exhaust duct. Thanks to this design, artificially discharged air is formed in the room in a few minutes, which is actively discharged into the external space.

For large basements with complex architecture, it makes sense to install 1 fan for both the exhaust and supply channels. Naturally, without the help of a specialist who can tell optimal solutions for a coordinated and uniform output and supply of oxygen, it is indispensable.

Forced ventilation of the cellar in the garage

Natural air exchange equipment

The principle of operation of natural ventilation is based on physical laws. The temperature and pressure inside and outside are different. Efficiency similar system depends on proper placement of air ducts. The exhaust opening should be located 10-20 cm below the ceiling zone, and the supply - 25-30 cm from the floor.

For a small basement near a residential country house this is quite enough, and in all other cases it is better to resort to a forced system.

Calculation of ventilation duct diameters

So, how to make ventilation in the basement? - The task of paramount importance is to select pipes of the required diameter. On average, 26 cm 2 of the air duct area is provided for the “square” of the cellar. If we are talking about a small square room, the dimensions of which are 3 x 3 m, then the diameter of the pipe is calculated in the following sequence.

S\u003d 3 x 3 \u003d 9m 2 - total basement area

T \u003d 9 x 26 \u003d 234 cm 2

The radius of the duct is calculated by the formula:

R = √ (T/n) =√ (234/3.14) ≈ 8.6 cm

Pipe diameter (for inflow):

DP.≈ 170 mm.

Experts advise stopping at the pipe option with a margin of 15% for the exhaust duct. Respectively:

Din. = Dp. + 15% = 170 + 26 = 196 mm.

Before installing all the elements, it is necessary to make calculations. Only in this case, the system will provide optimal conditions in the room..

Installation of ventilation

Having completed preparations, you can proceed directly to the installation of the system. There are rules that should be followed, regardless of what kind of air exchange we are talking about natural or forced.

Step-by-step instructions on how to properly ventilate the cellar:

Do-it-yourself ventilation in the cellar begins with the selection of material, in this case we will carry out installation using asbestos and plastic pipes. We make two holes in asbestos, one in each pipe (for placing plastic pipes in these holes). The holes must be equal to the diameter of the plastic pipes.

To make holes, use a drill or screwdriver.

Next, we install pipes. An inflow will be carried out along the lower pipe, and an outflow will be carried out along the upper one. The outflow pipe is mounted at a distance of at least 1.5 m above the ground or roof surface. And the supply air at a distance of 20 to 50 cm above the surface.

We bring plastic pipes into the room, while we lead the supply pipe to the far corner of the basement. We leave the distance from the floor the same - 20-50 cm. As for the exhaust pipe, it is better to mount it as high as possible to the ceiling, since there is the warmest air and thus it will be easier to bring it out.

The pipe on the left is outflow, the pipe on the right is inflow

We also cement outside.

Cellar Depth 3.5 meters Ventilation system

The nuances of maintaining an optimal microclimate

To maintain an optimal microclimate in such enclosed space it is necessary to follow a certain sequence of actions.

• The level of humidity in the room decreases due to regular ventilation. In summer, it makes sense to open dampers, hatches, etc. Due to the temperature difference in the cellar, ventilation will be provided.
• To increase humidity, the practice of spraying water with a spray gun is used. You can install a box with moistened sand or wet sawdust in the room.

Automated installation is much easier to maintain an optimal microclimate in space. If necessary, it can be quickly adjusted at your own discretion.

Cellar drying

An important aspect of ventilation measures is the drying of the cellar. Experts identify several effective ways to eliminate excess moisture. It is better to spend them in the summer, when there are no products, vegetables and fruits in the room. Hatches, openings and dampers open completely and leave the space in this form for at least 3-4 days. (effective in warm, dry weather) We will also tell you about several forced drying options.

hygroscopic substances

In 80% of cases, to dry the room, it is enough to confine ourselves to installing a small-sized box with coarse table salt or lime in the cellar. Their main feature is a hygroscopic structure, due to which they actively absorb unwanted moisture from the surrounding space.

Installing a domestic fan

Household fans are in every residential building. They effectively remove excess moisture. The device itself is placed in the central part of the basement and left on for 3-4 days. Previously, all hatches and dampers open completely.

Waterproofing treatment

After the cellar is completely dry, the floor and walls are waterproofing treatment. For this purpose, special protective compounds. For concrete walls, it is optimal to use impregnations with structural penetration. They are applied in 3-4 layers.
The consistency will close the pores in the structure of the base, which creates a waterproof material that can "breathe".

The dried basement is often covered with a layer of roofing material. Despite its affordability, it is one of the best waterproofers. It is very important to lay the roofing felt on a completely flat base. The floor surface is pre-treated with a layer of mastic, on which a protective layer is laid.

Since ancient times, back then in Rus', it was customary to stock up on food for the winter. There were no giants back then. Food Industry, and if people went to the market, they found there only goods from the neighboring cellar. People erected dugouts, dug basements without any engineering networks and waterproofing. As a result, the premises were flooded with water, food was lost. About devices like cellar ventilation and waterproofing the premises were out of the question. The people were not yet so educated and developed.

Now everything is different. Knowledge in the design and construction of basements allows you to create the best premises for food storage. When calculating and designing cellar ventilation systems standardized rules and regulations apply. They allow you to competently and wisely organize the basement from the inside, provide an ideal microclimate for storing vegetables and preserve the harvest until next year.

Cellar ventilation: basic requirements

According to its purpose cellar and cellar ventilation designed to provide moderate and stable indicators of humidity and air temperature. In addition to ventilation, these indicators are influenced by several other factors.

Therefore, immediately before construction, it is necessary to understand and provide for all possible factors that, during the operation of the premises, may affect the climate of the basement.

Only taking into account all the factors that can affect the functioning of the cellar will help achieve a certain climate. If something is missed, then do not scold ventilation or place excessive hopes on it. Undoubtedly, she is able to maintain the desired microclimate, but she cannot eliminate the wetting of the wall.

If the basement has a favorable location, good hydro and thermal insulation, then you can proceed to the design and installation of ventilation.

As in most general residential and industrial premises, basement ventilation has a source of air inflow from the environment and a device for the outflow of moist, polluted carbon dioxide masses.

Basement ventilation systems

The most common version of the basement arrangement involves the location of the cellar under the main rooms of a private house. In this case, two options for the exhaust device are used:

1. dual channel;
2. single channel.

The first one is used most often. It has a number of advantages in terms of servicing a larger cellar room.

Dual channel ventilation device

The ventilation technology with two points of inflow and outflow does not have any difficulties in installing air ducts.

Basement ventilation with ideal development construction process houses should be calculated at the stage of construction. So you will manage less financial and labor costs.

Air supply pipe.

The inflow device ensures the supply of air masses from the environment by means of air intake through the inlet (vent). The air is most often located near the side wall of the main building - the elevation above the level of the house blind area should be 20-30 cm.

The hole in the pipe is closed ventilation grill. If necessary, the grate can be supplied. The air duct is laid through the base of the house, the basement ceiling and is introduced into the basement. Outlet ventilation stretch almost to the floor cellars, receding 15-20 cm. Due to this arrangement of the ventilation duct, cool air from the street enters the duct, passes through it and enters the basement near the floor. After that, it gradually heats up and displaces upper layers warm and humidified air from the basement through the exhaust pipe.

System of outflow of the polluted masses.

It is located in the opposite corner of the cellar, diagonally relative to the supply pipe. The main principle is the need to capture heated air. This is achieved by placing the pipe entrance under the very ceiling of the basement (10-15 cm from it). Further, the exhaust channel passes through the ceiling of the main building, through the attic to the roof.

Depending on the shape of the roof and the prevailing wind rose, it is necessary to achieve conditions under which the wind will be directed to the pre-installed. A deflector is needed in any case, as it protects the pipe from atmospheric precipitation entering it. It also additionally creates negative pressure under the cover, due to which the air flow in the pipe increases.

The longer the exhaust duct, the stronger the flow of exhaust air in it.

The exhaust channel should be equipped in several layers to create necessary insulation. To do this, at the stage of planning premises and engineering networks at home:

• mount a brick or wooden well for a pipe cellar ventilation;
• choose a place for laying insulation between the well and the pipe;
• wrap the pipe itself with a special insulation that will not absorb moisture.

It is necessary to insulate the exhaust duct in order to cold period time not to get air condensation due to sudden cooling.

Regarding the last two points, it is worth noting that only double thermal insulation can provide resistance to freezing of the air duct. If the region where the house and basement are located suggests abnormally low temperatures, an additional air gap must be made between the main insulation and the insulation on the pipe itself. Such a solution will significantly reduce the thermal conductivity of the channel as a whole.

Single channel ventilation

In rare cases, when the cellar area is less than 5 sq.m., it is possible to combine the oxygen inflow and outflow channels in one pipe. This is the basic principle of operation of this system and the main difference from the two-channel arrangement. The pipe is separated by a partition, through which two circulation channels are obtained: one for the inflow, the second for the exhaust.

Natural or forced extraction?

To deal with this issue, you need to conduct an experiment with the already existing natural ventilation in the cellar under the house. To do this, you need to bring a thin sheet of paper to the outlets of the channel in the basement and determine, by the swaying of the sheet, the presence of movement of air masses.

Such an experiment is suitable for basements up to 10 sq.m. If the basement is over 10 sq.m., then, even if there is oxygen movement inside the room, the effectiveness of natural exhaust may be in doubt.

With a relatively large room, you need to purchase a hygrometer. This device measures the humidity of the air. The presence of a thermometer is mandatory for any size basement.

To determine the degree of ventilation, it is necessary to install a device that measures the humidity of the air. It should be installed approximately 1.5 meters from the floor.

This is important, since the ceiling itself will have the highest humidity. But vegetables are mostly stored on the floor. Therefore, it is necessary to measure average value room humidity.

With high hygrometer readings (over 85-90%), it is necessary to arrange a forced cellar ventilation.

Forced (mechanical) exhaust system

Remake do-it-yourself ventilation in the cellar won't be difficult. To do this, you need to install axial fans inside air ducts. This will increase circulation. For the supply duct, the fan is placed at the entrance to the protective grille. Accordingly, the exhaust duct is supplied with a fan directly at the entrance to the basement.